# Broken Tedder JD 752



## gradyjohn (Jul 17, 2012)

View attachment Tedder 752.pdf


Anybody been here? I have a 4 rotor JD752. The shaft (center drive) broke right behind the left drive yoke. I have the shaft on order but it looks like I have to totally take it apart. #8 is the shaft in question. I cannot find a tech manual.


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## NDVA HAYMAN (Nov 24, 2009)

Looks like that to me. Gonna need bearings, seals etc?


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## mike10 (May 29, 2011)

Your tedder is a Kuhn and is also the same as an early model NH 163 manual fold.

There are no shortcuts to it, the whole think has got to come apart. The worst part is going to be timing the rotors. I have never had to replace that shaft, but the way it looks, I would install the shaft into the gearbox and slide the right rotor support along with the right center rotor gearbox into place and bolt to the gearbox. At this point the gear #5 can be slid into the gearbox, be sure the key does not fall out. Slide the bearing #2 only partially into the gearbox housing so it can be removed later. Install the coupler to drive the wing but do not pin it, use a bolt to hold it in position for now. Install the right wing and fold into place and see if the rotors are in time. If not you will need to remove the bearing and slide the gear # 5 back out and turn that rotor until those to rotors are in time. Be sure the key for the gear does not fall out of the slot and into the gerbox.

Once the right side is in time the rest of the timing should go easier. Time the left center rotor to the right center rotor and and install the gear and bearing and drive hub. If you started out correctly the left rotor should be in time with the center rotor.

There may be easier ways but this is the way it appears to me. Trying to keep the gear #2 in the right housing as you remove the old shaft and install the new shaft will not work unless you are exactly lined up with the keyway. The key falls out easily.


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## gradyjohn (Jul 17, 2012)

mike10 said:


> Your tedder is a Kuhn and is also the same as an early model NH 163 manual fold.
> 
> There are no shortcuts to it, the whole think has got to come apart. The worst part is going to be timing the rotors. I have never had to replace that shaft, but the way it looks, I would install the shaft into the gearbox and slide the right rotor support along with the right center rotor gearbox into place and bolt to the gearbox. At this point the gear #5 can be slid into the gearbox, be sure the key does not fall out. Slide the bearing #2 only partially into the gearbox housing so it can be removed later. Install the coupler to drive the wing but do not pin it, use a bolt to hold it in position for now. Install the right wing and fold into place and see if the rotors are in time. If not you will need to remove the bearing and slide the gear # 5 back out and turn that rotor until those to rotors are in time. Be sure the key for the gear does not fall out of the slot and into the gerbox.
> 
> ...


and that's why I would like a tech manual. Three rotor offset works pretty good.


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## lfc (Jun 23, 2010)

Good luck if you need to take the wings off. On my NH 163 I was unable to pound out the trailer-hitch-ball-looking pieces that the wings pivot on - hard to get a good hit to break the taper lock. Finally torched them off, but then had a hard time getting the ball seat out of the casting. Ended up being quite a project.


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## Hayman1 (Jul 6, 2013)

I broke the housings (#16) on both sides of my NH163 manual fold that looked identical. Worked wiht the NH tech who had a crane truck- still took a while. The breaks came within 5 acres of each other and were on the inner flange weld. We think it was due to a used dealer picking it up with a forklift on the arms-too much stress. anyway, you're in for an extended repair, then making sure you have it in time.


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## gradyjohn (Jul 17, 2012)

lfc said:


> Good luck if you need to take the wings off. On my NH 163 I was unable to pound out the trailer-hitch-ball-looking pieces that the wings pivot on - hard to get a good hit to break the taper lock. Finally torched them off, but then had a hard time getting the ball seat out of the casting. Ended up being quite a project.


I got the left off. On this you have to knock out a roll pin then lift up (pry). This is a little different from yours. I got it figured out. I win the lotto and go get a Krone 6 fold up tedder. I really thought about getting a good used one but they cost more than what I paid for this one.


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## lfc (Jun 23, 2010)

Thinking more about it mine also had the roll pins and I guess they weren't tapered. You are lucky that it came apart so easily. I was going to replace the pivot balls on mine anyway since they were worn but it still would have been easier if I didn't have to torch them off.

If it makes you feel any better, there used to be a Kuhn tedder for sale at my local dealer that had a wing drive coupling broken off and wired to the frame so it wouldn't be lost.

I want a six rotor Krone too, or I'll even take another Kuhn!


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## gradyjohn (Jul 17, 2012)

lfc said:


> Thinking more about it mine also had the roll pins and I guess they weren't tapered. You are lucky that it came apart so easily. I was going to replace the pivot balls on mine anyway since they were worn but it still would have been easier if I didn't have to torch them off.
> 
> If it makes you feel any better, there used to be a Kuhn tedder for sale at my local dealer that had a wing drive coupling broken off and wired to the frame so it wouldn't be lost.
> 
> I want a six rotor Krone too, or I'll even take another Kuhn!


Can't say it makes me feel any better. I bought it in the crate and it took a whole day to put it together. This should be fun. :lol:


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## gradyjohn (Jul 17, 2012)

Well it appears there is not a tech manual on this machine. But, I think I have figured out how to remove the old shaft and replace with the new one. I think it is easier than first expected. Will keep you posted in case this ever happens to anyone else.


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## mlappin (Jun 25, 2009)

Neighbor broke his a few years ago, wasn't paying attention and ran the wing right up a guy wire for a telephone pole. Still isn't back together I guess as he texted me once this spring wanting to know if he could borrow my tedder....NOT.


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## slowzuki (Mar 8, 2011)

I have the same tedder in NH colours but cross my fingers no repairs yet. My duetz's had numerous problems and have stripped them a couple of times. Similar design, lots of roll pins but at least most bearing are slip fit, no pressing.


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## gradyjohn (Jul 17, 2012)

mlappin said:


> Neighbor broke his a few years ago, wasn't paying attention and ran the wing right up a guy wire for a telephone pole. Still isn't back together I guess as he texted me once this spring wanting to know if he could borrow my tedder....NOT.


Ha! maybe be likes an offset three rotor tedder. Funny ... telephone poles are almost non existent ... light/electric poles. I still call them telephone poles ... I'm classified as a senior citizen.


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## 8350HiTech (Jul 26, 2013)

Just remember where everything goes!


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## gradyjohn (Jul 17, 2012)

8350HiTech, Thank God mine will not be that bad.


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## 8350HiTech (Jul 26, 2013)

gradyjohn said:


> 8350HiTech, Thank God mine will not be that bad.


I'm in as far as the center gearbox to change the needle bearing. I actually don't have it as far apart as you will need to replace to long shaft!


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## Nitram (Apr 2, 2011)

Like I'm gonna buy a tedder after this thread !!!!!!!! :lol:


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## gradyjohn (Jul 17, 2012)

Nitram said:


> Like I'm gonna buy a tedder after this thread !!!!!!!! :lol:


My repair is a result of a lady hitting mine from behind on the road. The shaft had about 1/2 inch of fresh metal when it broke ... so this was going to happen in a matter of time. This is not a result of field use. Everybody needs a tedder ... mine has more than paid for itself. Top of picture.


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## gradyjohn (Jul 17, 2012)

Mission complete. Took wing left and right rotors off. Then took other two off with support tube on jack stands. Opened the back of the gear case and removed some grease. Tapped shaft until you could remove key. Slide shaft out. Reverse to put back together. The inner snap ring holding the bearing does not have to come out unless you are removing the bearing. You will also have to remove tine a arm on each rotor. About an 8 hour job with 2. Would be helpful to have a hoist. Don't want to do it again.


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## 8350HiTech (Jul 26, 2013)

Why not just flip it on its back?


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## gradyjohn (Jul 17, 2012)

8350HiTech said:


> Why not just flip it on its back?


When putting the rotors back you have to line up the key slots to the shaft. I did think about it.


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