# Understanding three point links on McCormick



## JD3430 (Jan 1, 2012)

This one has me scratching my head. 
In the sideways pictures below, you will see the sliding links attached to my 3 point arms. They slide in and out. Problem is, that allows the 3pt to swing back and forth, too. Both sides are the same. 
I can't understand why anyone would desire this. Is there something I do not understand or I am missing here?
I'm beginning to think someone has taken the original links off which would have holes, instead of a slot, to keep the links from swaying back and forth.


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## slowzuki (Mar 8, 2011)

Need sway for plows etc - mf is set up similar. To stop sway on mine though you can put the pins in fixed holes or adjust links all the way out on both sides to wedge the attachment.


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## slowzuki (Mar 8, 2011)

Also on mf there are two attachment points on the housing one set tightens sway when the attachment is up but allows sway when down, the other is constant setting whether up of down.

Edit yours looks like it has this too. Use the set that are inline with your lower link tractor ends.


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## JD3430 (Jan 1, 2012)

slowzuki said:


> Also on mf there are two attachment points on the housing one set tightens sway when the attachment is up but allows sway when down, the other is constant setting whether up of down.
> Edit yours looks like it has this too. Use the set that are inline with your lower link tractor ends.


Can you elaborate a little. Wouldn't they still sway even if I relocate them?

The sway links have slots, there's no way to fix them in one spot.

On edit: OK, so when the 3 PTO is lowered, say to use a plow, it has side to side sway, but when 3pt is raised, say for a sprayer, it does not sway as much?


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## slowzuki (Mar 8, 2011)

Sorry so look at those steel brackets on the rear axle housing - the ears sticking down that the links attach to. There are often two positions on European tractors. One set is straight inline with the tractor ends of the three point, the other set is not.

The set of holes not inline can be setup to minimize sway when the hitch is raised but you have to be careful as they can jam or break things if you use them wrong.


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## slowzuki (Mar 8, 2011)

Re the slots - normally you can adjust the link so the slots are at the end of their travel either in tension or on my mf in compression to stop sway.

If you adjust in the middle they allow sway.

Don't normally take anything but the spring pin out. The tab/block is needed to slack them off sometimes if the implement sways against the stay when parking it. Just hammer it a turn or so to get slack to take pin out.


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## slowzuki (Mar 8, 2011)

Hope this markup shows up.


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## 8350HiTech (Jul 26, 2013)

I think I'd ditch those for a set with slots AND pin holes.


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## JD3430 (Jan 1, 2012)

8350HiTech said:


> I think I'd ditch those for a set with slots AND pin holes.


Yes, that would be nice, but there's the issue of finding the correct ones.


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## 8350HiTech (Jul 26, 2013)

Something like this, presumably.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/401213205672


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## JD3430 (Jan 1, 2012)

8350HiTech said:


> Something like this, presumably.
> https://www.ebay.com/itm/401213205672


Yes something like that but fitting a CX110, which it does not appear to do.


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## r82230 (Mar 1, 2016)

JD, can you drill holes as I tried to show here?

View media item 3890
This is similar to what my arms look on a NH tractor

Larry


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## mike10 (May 29, 2011)

You could turn the end with the slot 90 degrees and drill a series of holes spaced out over a certain length. Ideally you would also have more then one hole in the shaft portion of the link. The hole spacing would be different from the tube to the shaft to allow for a finer adjustment. The axle mount of the stabilizer does need to be in alignment with the lower pivot point of the lift arm.


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## JD3430 (Jan 1, 2012)

No matter the height of the hitch, the arms swing wildly left to right. So the slot design of these links does not appear to have anything to do with a scenario where in the down position it has sway for something like plowing and hauling something like a sprayer in the up position, where it has no sway. This is not the case. It sways all over up down and in between


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## JD3430 (Jan 1, 2012)

mike10 said:


> You could turn the end with the slot 90 degrees and drill a series of holes spaced out over a certain length. Ideally you would also have more then one hole in the shaft portion of the link. The hole spacing would be different from the tube to the shaft to allow for a finer adjustment. The axle mount of the stabilizer does need to be in alignment with the lower pivot point of the lift arm.


I already considered doing that, but was really more curious as to why anyone would want their tractor's 3pt hitch arms to sway back and forth.

When I got the tractor, the screw eyes were frozen into the tubes, they couldn't be turned. Fixed that and thought of drilling them while they were in the vice.

I figured a replacement with holes instead of slots might be a pretty cheap upgrade, too.

Didnt know if holes would be easy to get lined up right and if I'd be any better off.


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## 8350HiTech (Jul 26, 2013)

JD3430 said:


> Yes something like that but fitting a CX110, which it does not appear to do.


I have a Massey set on my Deutz. As long as aftermarket ones list extended length, retracted length, and pin and hole size for mounting, it doesn't really matter what it's listed to fit. That said, drilling is a really cheap and practical option. I would also share your concern of getting the holes lined up perfectly though so maybe check out aftermarket dimensions before you start drilling yours.


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## JD3430 (Jan 1, 2012)

8350HiTech said:


> I have a Massey set on my Deutz. As long as aftermarket ones list extended length, retracted length, and pin and hole size for mounting, it doesn't really matter what it's listed to fit. That said, drilling is a really cheap and practical option. I would also share your concern of getting the holes lined up perfectly though so maybe check out aftermarket dimensions before you start drilling yours.


The one you kindly suggested on eBay has ends that parallel each other.
The one on my McCormick has ends that are perpendicular to each other.
I think I may have found "the one", but it's from a European distributor.
Anyone know where this may be available stateside? Looks pretty basic like it would be at a tractor store.


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## 8350HiTech (Jul 26, 2013)

Yep. I was thinking about stabilizers that have one threaded end so that the orientation can be changed. I like the one you found. It looks a little heavier than the set I bought.


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## JMT (Aug 10, 2013)

Does the McCormick have sway blocks to assist in stability? I am not familiar with the McCormick but the Case IH line they came from had only the sway blocks (at least the ones I had experience with 51xx, 52xx).


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## JD3430 (Jan 1, 2012)

8350HiTech said:


> Yep. I was thinking about stabilizers that have one threaded end so that the orientation can be changed. I like the one you found. It looks a little heavier than the set I bought.


And where did you buy your set?


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## 8350HiTech (Jul 26, 2013)

Local mechanic ordered them for me from spare-x. Should be available from A&I and maybe Tisco as well. I can't find the exact one online in order to link it.


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## 8350HiTech (Jul 26, 2013)

This is closest that I can find to what I have but it isn't quite the same and the lack of extra pictures is pretty lame.

https://www.amazon.com/Stabilizer-Massey-Ferguson-Tractor-0013961U92/dp/B00EUCJJME


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## mike10 (May 29, 2011)

New Holland has an economy link like that. If I remember, tomorrow I will look at it and get the measurements and price.


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## mike10 (May 29, 2011)

I could not find any affordable links except in kits, but I am sure you can find the links separate for less.


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## JD3430 (Jan 1, 2012)

I'm going to call local McCormick dealer tomorrow. He's a brand new dealer, so I don't know if his parts man is any good. 
I may also try a Case-IH dealer.


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## Gearclash (Nov 25, 2010)

I'm not sure I under stand what you are trying to accomplish JD? If you put a pin in the slot of the sway links, then pull the arm ends together, how close to category measurement are you? Without an implement the arms may seem to have too much sway but if they are held in unison they might not sway much if there is a pin in that slot. Maybe I'm way in la la land?


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## skyrydr2 (Oct 25, 2015)

Those links should work fine for proper cat2 implements?
Put pin in slot and lift fully to ajust to be tight. When lowering they become slightly loose. My Case 1594 has plates that contact the arms onthe inside. They can be ajusted in or out top or bottom. 
The NH 125 had links kind of like yours but with notches to ajust. 
How they work depends on what hole they are mounted in back by the axle. The closer to the lower arms pivot point the less they tight when lifted.
All the mfr's have their own ideas and methods as to how this works. Best to ready your manual to get a full understanding.


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## JD3430 (Jan 1, 2012)

My bottom arms sway probably 1-2' left or right when raised or lowered. It doesn't seem to change much. 
Since I don't do any plowing and mostly use my 3pt for a sprayer or spreader, I'd like to have the 3pt arms stay very steady in raised position. Also, when I pull my 8' landscape rake, the 3pt will be lowered and will need to be steady.
Honestly, I've never seen slotted-only links. And they seem useless, unless there's something installed incorrectly, or something I'm misunderstanding.
Kubota has a slot, but also has holes. I use the Slot for installing arms on cat 2 attachments. Then once you have them on, you pull pin from slot, and put it in the hole to lock it. Works perfect.

I need stabilizers with slot and holes, or maybe just holes if both are not available.


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## Gearclash (Nov 25, 2010)

Are you seeing that much sway with an implement attached?


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## slowzuki (Mar 8, 2011)

I've been trying to explain it but the ones with slots you need to turn the adjustable part of the arms to take up all the slack in the slot so the arm on each side is at the end of the slot.


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## JD3430 (Jan 1, 2012)

slowzuki said:


> I've been trying to explain it but the ones with slots you need to turn the adjustable part of the arms to take up all the slack in the slot so the arm on each side is at the end of the slot.


I'm pretty sure the adjuster (assume you mean the threaded side that hooks to tractor axle) do not thread inward far enough to close the slot down to a pin-sized hole. 
Even if they did, it would be a real PITA to have to thread/unthread them constanly. It would be much easier to have links with slot & holes, wouldn't it?

I guess it would work, but it's an awfully backward ass excercise versus holes in the links


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## JD3430 (Jan 1, 2012)

More info: called one of the local dealers. He says they offer a threaded link with no holes or slots. 
Sounds no better to me.
I think I may have no choice but to drill mine with 2 or 3 holes. 
I do worry that once holes are drilled, none will "center" the implement perfectly. 
Only way you could insure centering is to leave links on tractor and mark them first.

Hard to believe this is really my only option. Unless Ken you have an idea or I'm missing something very simple.


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## mike10 (May 29, 2011)

Drilling holes only in the outer tube will not give you a satisfactory end product. The rod also needs to be drilled. The holes in the rod will be closer together than the outer tube holes. Your Kubota is probably like that.


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## JMT (Aug 10, 2013)

JD3430 said:


> I'm pretty sure the adjuster (assume you mean the threaded side that hooks to tractor axle) do not thread inward far enough to close the slot down to a pin-sized hole.
> Even if they did, it would be a real PITA to have to thread/unthread them constanly. It would be much easier to have links with slot & holes, wouldn't it?
> I guess it would work, but it's an awfully backward ass excercise versus holes in the links


Have you hooked something up yet to make positive that the slot does not adjust out?

Both sides have to work together, with the attachment, to adjust out the slot. Once slot is adjusted out, with both arms hooked, the attachment should be stable. Then, when you unhook one arm, the slots will come back into play. No further thread adjustment needed.

If the slots will adjust out, system should work pretty good. Adjustment amount will depend on measurements of your attachments. Biggest negative I see is that with slots adjusted out it would put pressure on lynch pins.


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## 8350HiTech (Jul 26, 2013)

JD3430 said:


> More info: called one of the local dealers. He says they offer a threaded link with no holes or slots.
> Sounds no better to me.
> I think I may have no choice but to drill mine with 2 or 3 holes.
> I do worry that once holes are drilled, none will "center" the implement perfectly.
> ...


If you drill them and your holes don't yield the perfect snugness or centering, you can tweak them by adjusting the threaded ends, even as little as a half turn could help. Once you have those ends threaded where you want them, you probably won't have to touch them again.

Also, an mike10 said, multiple holes in both rod and tube wil yield the best results and your Kubota should provide an excellent example.


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## slowzuki (Mar 8, 2011)

Ok some digging around shows these are the proper links.

https://www.vapormatic.com/tractor-parts.ashx?manuid=ML&m=McCormick&typeid=010&t=Agricultural%20tractor&seriesid=0&areaid=039#part_list/VPL3348

So they are shared across the CIH tractors that I'm familiar with the older versions of those that had check chains.

They show slotted kubota style sway links that cross over.

I still think the links should be adjustable to tension the arms from each side so they stop sway.

I had the earlier CIH sway chains with turn-buckle on a 584 and 585. Because we ran Cat 1 and Cat 2 stuff we couldn't set them tight enough to stop Cat 2 sway because then the arms wouldn't close tight enough for Cat 1.

Looking at your pictures its almost like the threads were damaged so you can't get to the threads for the shortest settings. What is that necked down section of threads about?


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## JD3430 (Jan 1, 2012)

slowzuki said:


> Ok some digging around shows these are the proper links.
> 
> https://www.vapormatic.com/tractor-parts.ashx?manuid=ML&m=McCormick&typeid=010&t=Agricultural%20tractor&seriesid=0&areaid=039#part_list/VPL3348
> 
> ...


Do they have ones with loops on both ends?


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