# Spring Orchard Grass



## cwright (Oct 19, 2011)

Would it be a total waste of time to plant Orchard grass in Late February or early March? It's a mixed bag in East TN, sometimes it's warm and sometimes hard freeze. We usually get plenty of rain and getting into the field without rutting may be a problem as well. 
Was planning to plant and hopefully get a stand started along with some weed control spraying in the same time period.
The better option might be to wait till fall to plant and spend time managing the weeds and take what I can of mostly fescue and clover.

Charles


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## Vol (Jul 5, 2009)

Charles, Spring orchard grass does pretty well in E TN if planted in late Feb. and we dont experience severe drought during the summer. You could probably spray with 2-4-d ester sometime in mid to late April.

Regards, Mike


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## cwright (Oct 19, 2011)

Thanks Vol,
Hope the weather cooperates and we have decent rain this summer. 
One other thing I meant to ask. With orchard grass and average rainfall for this area does anyone get more than two cuttings per year?
Traditionally cutting time around Memorial Day and Labor Day. I have not noticed anyone putting hay up before or in between those times.


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## rjmoses (Apr 4, 2010)

Like Mike said, I have had good success with late February OG frost seedings by broadcasting it on a snow over prepared ground. Sometimes 2,4D can damage seedlings, so be a little patient before spraying. Ive had my most success with late August planting.

OG goes dormant when daytime temps are above 85. That's why you see spring/fall cuttings.

Ralph


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## Vol (Jul 5, 2009)

cwright asks, "With orchard grass and average rainfall for this area does anyone get more than two cuttings per year?"

Occasionally Charles when we have a late fall(Indian Summer) you can get a cutting about the 10th of October, but this is infrequent(every 4-5 years).

Regards, Mike


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## Vol (Jul 5, 2009)

One other thing I failed to mention Charles, is that I highly recommend a late maturing variety of Orchard Grass. Many of these varietys are of european origins and it has been my experience that the germination rate is lower than we like, but the grasses are outstanding. Just apply 20 pounds per acre(european seed) and you will be fine. Do so even if you sow a companion grass with the Orchard. Do not skimp on seed, and work the ground up well and culti-pack it down before and after sowing.

Regards, Mike


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## cwright (Oct 19, 2011)

I was planning on renting a drill from the Co-Op to resow but have not checked to see what type of seed drill they have and if it handles small seed.

If a suitable drill is not available then I will work the ground up and resow it.
Basically I'm getting really bored this winter and making a few plans to get busy at something.


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## Vol (Jul 5, 2009)

cwright said:


> I was planning on renting a drill from the Co-Op to resow but have not checked to see what type of seed drill they have and if it handles small seed.


Co-op over here has a "Conservation Seeder" which I have used and it does a pretty decent job. I like it better than a drill.

Regards, Mike


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## cwright (Oct 19, 2011)

What warm season grass would be a good companion for Orchard Grass? I was looking at some native warm season grass but have no idea how these types would fill in during the hot months when the OG goes dormant.


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## Vol (Jul 5, 2009)

Never really thought of companioning the two.....if I wanted something bale during July/August I probably would plant(drill) alfalfa in my mixture. Do you have a haybine or discbine.....that would be needed to get alfalfa to dry down. Most warm season grasses are of the "clumping" variety....not sure how they would react to being cut in late May/June in your first orchard grass cutting.

You may want to take a look at the UT forage website; http://forages.tennessee.edu/default.html
and you could run it by Dr. Gary Bates: [email protected]

Regards, Mike


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## cwright (Oct 19, 2011)

No I don't have a conditioner. I don't think Alfalfa would do well on my place. Hard slate is only 8 to 12 inches below the top soil. It was heavily farmed in the 60's and I am sure there used to be more top soil. UT forage web site was where I got info on warm season grasses. The pictures and charts are impressive. With your input I can see now that a mixture of native warm season grass with the Orchard grass would have little benefit.

CW


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## cwright (Oct 19, 2011)

No I don’t have a conditioner. I don’t think Alfalfa would do well on my place. Hard slate is only 8 to 12 inches below the top soil. It was heavily farmed in the 60’s and I am sure there used to be more top soil. UT forage web site was where I got info on warm season grasses. The pictures and charts are impressive. With your input I can see now that a mixture of native warm season grass with the Orchard grass would have little benefit.


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## tnwalkingred (Jun 8, 2010)

Charles,

Mike is VERy well versed in raising orchard grass here in TN. I planted ten acres of orchard grass two falls ago and with Mikes advice I have a very nice stand. I'm going to overseed mine this fall with a no-till drill and then work up the 5 acres next to it with a conservation seeder to get a new stand started this spring if it's not too wet. Nice to have you on the site. I have been absent all winter but am glad to be back now cause it's a great place to get good relaible info in regards to the hay business.

--Kyle


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## swmnhay (Jun 13, 2008)

cwright said:


> What warm season grass would be a good companion for Orchard Grass? I was looking at some native warm season grass but have no idea how these types would fill in during the hot months when the OG goes dormant.


I was thinking of mixing some Meadow Brome in with Orchardgrass myself.The meadow brome does a little better then orchard in summer but peters out in the fall.

I have some Alf/MB on a field with a sand spot and it does fairly well 1st and 2nd cutting but not much for 3 rd cutting.Orchardgrass tends to grow fairly well here in the fall.So thinking of going Alf/Orchard/MB.Or interseeding Orchard/MB into thining alfalfa to get a few more yrs out of it.


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## cwright (Oct 19, 2011)

I used a conservation seeder on the 7th of March to plant the Orchard grass. The ground was a little damp and the wind was blowing, not ideal conditions, but turned out to be the best weather window. It has been getting plenty of rain. It was difficult to tell how much seed was drilled in the ground and I saw some seed just on top of bare soil. Hopefully if it makes contact with the ground it will germinate.
The wind caused the seed to go to one side of the planter so if it does come up the field will be streaky.
The germination time is 19 days so I hope to see some results next week. Hopefully the other grass won't overtake it before it has a chance to develop.
Sort of like watching a pot and waiting on the water to boil.

CW


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## Vol (Jul 5, 2009)

Good luck Charles, if this heat continues it is going to be very difficult for any of our spring planted grasses to survive the season.

Regards, Mike


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## cwright (Oct 19, 2011)

Been away from the place for a few days. Got back this afternoon and checked the field. The OG is sprouting up finally. Temps have been in the 80's and have had plenty of rain.
If it gets any hotter the new sprouts are going to be toast.

CW


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