# massey 1734



## Aldermeadowfarm (Oct 19, 2017)

Hi all,

I'm new here as historically we buy our hay, but I've used the forum quite a bit over the years researching knowledge. The Massey 1734 holds my interest for 2 reasons, it is rated for 30 pto hp, and we may be moving to a new farm which will allow us to make (some, most, all) our own hay. I have a JD 3520 which yes is a compact tractor, with 37 hp and 30pto hp, I've spoken with the dealer who claims yes I can do this. I'm sure some will tell me I'm nuts and it just won't work, but I am determined. We will have about 30-40 acres to hay, mostly flat with a few on a hillside, some slight inclines here and there. With weights, loader, and loaded rear tires the tractor comes in at about 4000 pounds. It is an open station tractor and my understanding is disc mowers should be used with a cab so I am looking at sickle bar mowers, Ferrabolli (sp?) and Frontier both make them with 7'-8' bars which is a pretty decent length to actually get some grass cut. Sickles have been used for quite a long time and have made a name for themselves as out dated and inefficient but the new ones seem to work much better. It's true I'm stepping back in time with a sickle (no disc and conditioner) and a baler that uses twine instead of net wrap, but these machines are on the market and sized accordingly for my tractor. I am also thinking of a Kuhn Haybob for tedding and raking, not positive though. All of this, though not as time efficient as bigger machinery, conceptually seems to jive with myself and the dealers I've spoken with. The Kuhn dealer thinks their smaller disc mower would be better. I have concern for the baler on hills (straight up and down, no side hilling) and the weight of the tractor. Would low gear offer me an extra measure of safety going down? Is there something about the extra stem length from a sickle that won't work with the baler (pickup)? I live in the Adirondacks on the edge of the Champlain Valley where small farms are tucked away in the mountains and most folks I can hire out are too busy and too far away, so I want to do it myself. We will be relying on direct sales of primarily cheese, yogurt, and milk, as well as vegetables to earn much of our income. We have a small herd of jersey cows and plan on 10 milking when we are up and running. Looking for thoughts and input on my line of thinking. I am not closed to the thought of a bigger tractor but would like to use what I have.

Thanks,

Mike


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## Teslan (Aug 20, 2011)

We have a MF 1759. My dad uses it for to bushhog and to spray weeds. We didn't get it with a loader because the loader wouldn't handle much that we would need it to handle anyways. That's about all it's good for. For baling. Never! I'm assuming you mean to round bale? Since you mention netwrap? I don't know much about round balers, but I wouldn't think that would be a fun job either with a smaller tractor even then the 1759. I can't see the 1759 handling a small square baler well either. Never mind a smaller powered tractor. The sickle bar mower it could probably handle.


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## BWfarms (Aug 3, 2015)

I had to go look up a 1734 round baler and JD 3520. No! Plain and simple.

I wouldn't pair that combination. You are going to end up with a dead tractor if not dead yourself. It sounds like you want to be somewhat serious of a farmer, buy a used 50-60 pto full utility tractor. You will be able to hook up everything you want and work comfortably. There are plenty available for less than 10k.


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## Teslan (Aug 20, 2011)

I guess I misunderstood this question. I thought we were talking about a mf tractor. My mistake.


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## 2ndWindfarm (Nov 11, 2014)

I'm taking it as a 2-pronged question... Should he consider doing his own hay with the compact tractor (JD 3520) he currently has and should he consider buying a MF 1734 to use on the hay operation as well?

About 16-17 years ago, I was asking myself some pretty similar questions. Finally gave in to my wife's dream of owning horses. Buying hay for several years and it was a PITA. Launched into rolling our own hay with a 43hp tractor and a JD 336 sq baler.

My experience would follow up with what has already been mentioned - buy a good used 50-60hp @ pto utility tractor. Forget the MF. It's too small for anything past a small rake or tedder. Same for the 3520. It can fit as a raking and tedding tractor and light chore work. Digging post holes, etc.

My 43hp tractor had the eHydro tranny like your 3520. The JD square baler would bale in low range @ 2-3mph tops. And the pounding from the baler was enough that I figured the tractor, tranny would not hold up long term.

So, if you're determined to do your own hay... Save yourself some time and money - go bigger now.


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## VA Haymaker (Jul 1, 2014)

Aldermeadowfarm said:


> Hi all,
> I'm new here as historically we buy our hay, but I've used the forum quite a bit over the years researching knowledge. The Massey 1734 holds my interest for 2 reasons, it is rated for 30 pto hp, and we may be moving to a new farm which will allow us to make (some, most, all) our own hay. I have a JD 3520 which yes is a compact tractor, with 37 hp and 30pto hp, I've spoken with the dealer who claims yes I can do this. I'm sure some will tell me I'm nuts and it just won't work, but I am determined. We will have about 30-40 acres to hay, mostly flat with a few on a hillside, some slight inclines here and there. With weights, loader, and loaded rear tires the tractor comes in at about 4000 pounds. It is an open station tractor and my understanding is disc mowers should be used with a cab so I am looking at sickle bar mowers, Ferrabolli (sp?) and Frontier both make them with 7'-8' bars which is a pretty decent length to actually get some grass cut. Sickles have been used for quite a long time and have made a name for themselves as out dated and inefficient but the new ones seem to work much better. It's true I'm stepping back in time with a sickle (no disc and conditioner) and a baler that uses twine instead of net wrap, but these machines are on the market and sized accordingly for my tractor. I am also thinking of a Kuhn Haybob for tedding and raking, not positive though. All of this, though not as time efficient as bigger machinery, conceptually seems to jive with myself and the dealers I've spoken with. The Kuhn dealer thinks their smaller disc mower would be better. I have concern for the baler on hills (straight up and down, no side hilling) and the weight of the tractor. Would low gear offer me an extra measure of safety going down? Is there something about the extra stem length from a sickle that won't work with the baler (pickup)? I live in the Adirondacks on the edge of the Champlain Valley where small farms are tucked away in the mountains and most folks I can hire out are too busy and too far away, so I want to do it myself. We will be relying on direct sales of primarily cheese, yogurt, and milk, as well as vegetables to earn much of our income. We have a small herd of jersey cows and plan on 10 milking when we are up and running. Looking for thoughts and input on my line of thinking. I am not closed to the thought of a bigger tractor but would like to use what I have.
> Thanks,
> Mike


Are you buying new haying equipment from the dealer?


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## Vol (Jul 5, 2009)

I will try and help clarify the OP question;

Part of the problem is that MF makes a 1734 round baler(3x4) and MF also makes a 1734E tractor.

I am almost certain that the OP is asking about purchasing the ROUND BALER....not the tractor.

Aldermeadow, if what I have stated is true, then it could/would be very disastrous for you to be round baling on a steep hill with your 3520. It was not intended for that and any salesman that had one ounce of humanity inside themselves would plainly tell you this. Sell your lawnmower and buy a 50+ horsepower tractor. Don't try to make something work because you "are determined" when disaster plainly stares you in the face. That would be totally irrational. I don't think you have ever round baled before and there is more to it than just driving a tractor and making a bale.....especially so on steep hillsides...flat ground might be possible with your 3520. When operating equipment, it is a good idea to have about 15-20% more hp than the equipment is rated for. You will find that you will need more than 30 hp for that little baler when going up a steep hill as you will lose some hp to the incline.

Regards, Mike


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## Tx Jim (Jun 30, 2014)

Aldermeadowman

Welcome to HT

I agree your JD 3520 is TOO SMALL for rd baling unless you're thinking about a rd baler similar to an old AC rd baler that makes a 40-50 # bale. You mentioned stem height. One should be able to make the same height stem with either a sickle,drum or disc cutter. Stem height is controlled by adjusting angle of cutter bar.


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## Teslan (Aug 20, 2011)

Vol said:


> I will try and help clarify the OP question;
> 
> Part of the problem is that MF makes a 1734 round baler(3x4) and MF also makes a 1734E tractor.
> 
> I am almost certain that the OP is asking about purchasing the ROUND BALER....not the tractor.


Yes you are correct. Why would he buy another compact tractor to run a baler? I thought it was an odd question, but I don't usually think about round balers never mind knowing numbers of them. So the 1734 jumped out at me as a tractor number.

I just think in general compact tractors are not meant for baling of any kind. Looking at our 1759 MF tractor I don't even think the drawbar is strong enough to handle baling of any sort. I figure it is a bit bigger of a tractor then his JD. But only slightly.


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## Aldermeadowfarm (Oct 19, 2017)

Alright, alright, this is exactly what I thought would happen. I will look into something around 50-60hp which actually opens up my choices of hay equipment dramatically. The only other thing I can do is try to hire out the baling and do the rest myself with what I have, but that may be difficult. Smaller equipment is being manufactured and advertised to be used with a smaller tractor and it seems to make sense, and the dealers agree. The massey 1734 round baler is the perfect example, and sorry I didn't specify it was the baler I'm inquiring about, not the tractor,. I spoke with the dealer about the baler and he said absolutely yes, his neighbor runs one with an old 24hp ford compact. It makes 3x4 bales weighing +/- 500lbs, and I move 4x5 bales now with my 3520 no problem. Anyway, by going up in tractor size I can now look at different mowers and balers and not be so limited with choices. I'm not planning on buying anything new, never do, unless there is a great deal on a leftover or something. I have New Holland , Deere, and Case dealers nearest to me, and Deere has given me exceptional service every time so I am inclined to stay there. So how about something like a 5055 4wd?

Thanks for the input everyone, and sorry again about the baler /tractor confusion.

Mike


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## mike10 (May 29, 2011)

Would it be more cost effective to rent out your hay ground and just buy your hay? It is not just the equipment you need to buy but fertilizer, seed, time, weather, etc to get a crop.


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## Trillium Farm (Dec 18, 2014)

Aldermeadowfarm said:


> Hi all,
> 
> I'm new here as historically we buy our hay, but I've used the forum quite a bit over the years researching knowledge. The Massey 1734 holds my interest for 2 reasons, it is rated for 30 pto hp, and we may be moving to a new farm which will allow us to make (some, most, all) our own hay. I have a JD 3520 which yes is a compact tractor, with 37 hp and 30pto hp, I've spoken with the dealer who claims yes I can do this. I'm sure some will tell me I'm nuts and it just won't work, but I am determined. We will have about 30-40 acres to hay, mostly flat with a few on a hillside, some slight inclines here and there. With weights, loader, and loaded rear tires the tractor comes in at about 4000 pounds. It is an open station tractor and my understanding is disc mowers should be used with a cab so I am looking at sickle bar mowers, Ferrabolli (sp?) and Frontier both make them with 7'-8' bars which is a pretty decent length to actually get some grass cut. Sickles have been used for quite a long time and have made a name for themselves as out dated and inefficient but the new ones seem to work much better. It's true I'm stepping back in time with a sickle (no disc and conditioner) and a baler that uses twine instead of net wrap, but these machines are on the market and sized accordingly for my tractor. I am also thinking of a Kuhn Haybob for tedding and raking, not positive though. All of this, though not as time efficient as bigger machinery, conceptually seems to jive with myself and the dealers I've spoken with. The Kuhn dealer thinks their smaller disc mower would be better. I have concern for the baler on hills (straight up and down, no side hilling) and the weight of the tractor. Would low gear offer me an extra measure of safety going down? Is there something about the extra stem length from a sickle that won't work with the baler (pickup)? I live in the Adirondacks on the edge of the Champlain Valley where small farms are tucked away in the mountains and most folks I can hire out are too busy and too far away, so I want to do it myself. We will be relying on direct sales of primarily cheese, yogurt, and milk, as well as vegetables to earn much of our income. We have a small herd of jersey cows and plan on 10 milking when we are up and running. Looking for thoughts and input on my line of thinking. I am not closed to the thought of a bigger tractor but would like to use what I have.
> 
> ...


The one factor that matters when haying is "Weather" so the faster you can dry the hay the better. That's what modern machinery allows to do, we don't have the same weather as in years past and we must adjust. With your JD you'd have to use a sickle-mower, a conditioner, tedder and a rake, all of these activities require time. New haybines allow to skip at least one of these steps sometimes two and do the job much faster which gives more time for dry down. Then you bale and if you were baling small squares no problem, but with big round bales you must consider also the weight of the bale and when going down/up-hill what if your tractor jumps out of gear? All that weight will pull/push you and you won't be able to control it. No matter how "determined" you are the laws of physics can't be ignored. As other suggested get ourself a utility tractor with 60-70 hp and you'll have no problem doing all this without risking your life.


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## Vol (Jul 5, 2009)

Aldermeadowfarm said:


> I have New Holland , Deere, and Case dealers nearest to me, and Deere has given me exceptional service every time so I am inclined to stay there. So how about something like a 5055 4wd?
> 
> Thanks for the input everyone, and sorry again about the baler /tractor confusion.
> 
> Mike


Mike, is that the 5055D? If so, that would be a excellent choice as we just had a member post on this particular tractor this week....and how solid it was and having the added benefit of being a pre-emission tractor on 2014's and earlier. Whatever your tractor choice, you are now headed the right direction.

Regards, Mike


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## Trillium Farm (Dec 18, 2014)

Aldermeadowfarm said:


> So how about something like a 5055 4wd?
> 
> Thanks for the input everyone, and sorry again about the baler /tractor confusion.
> 
> Mike


Excellent choice! Especially if pre-emission crap motor.


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## VA Haymaker (Jul 1, 2014)

Aldermeadowfarm said:


> I have New Holland , Deere, and Case dealers nearest to me, and Deere has given me exceptional service every time so I am inclined to stay there. So how about something like a 5055 4wd?
> Thanks for the input everyone, and sorry again about the baler /tractor confusion.
> Mike





Trillium Farm said:


> Excellent choice! Especially if pre-emission crap motor.


I kind of like mine, 5055d 4x2, pre emissions year 2014. Bought it new, last year of the pre-emissions tractors. Needs 2 wires to run, one for the starter solenoid and the other for the fuel shut-off solenoid. I just wish I could drive it more, as it stands now, I've got my daughter right where she wants me - on the wagon...????


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## 2ndWindfarm (Nov 11, 2014)

Vol said:


> Mike, is that the 5055D? If so, that would be a excellent choice as we just had a member post on this particular tractor this week....and how solid it was and having the added benefit of being a pre-emission tractor on 2014's and earlier. Whatever your tractor choice, you are now headed the right direction.
> 
> Regards, Mike


The D is only configured as 4x2. Would be the E series to be 4x4. If the OP is looking to go with a round baler, 45hp @ pto won't be enough unless he settles with the small MFN baler.


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## Vol (Jul 5, 2009)

2ndWindfarm said:


> If the OP is looking to go with a round baler, 45hp @ pto won't be enough unless he settles with the small MFN baler.


The 1734 that the OP is speaking about is a 3x4 baler which 45 pto hp should adequately handle since the 1734 is rated at 30hp to operate.

Regards, Mike


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## 8350HiTech (Jul 26, 2013)

Vol said:


> The 1734 that the OP is speaking about is a 3x4 baler which 45 pto hp should adequately handle since the 1734 is rated at 30hp to operate.
> 
> Regards, Mike





Aldermeadowfarm said:


> Anyway, by going up in tractor size I can now look at different mowers and balers and not be so limited with choices.....
> 
> So how about something like a 5055 4wd?
> Thanks for the input everyone, and sorry again about the baler /tractor confusion.
> Mike


Yes, the 5055 will run the 1734 but it doesn't greatly expand the equipment that can now be considered. (Outside of allowing a sickle mower conditioner) So maybe there was more confusion. Stick with the 1734 plan or look at a bigger tractor than a 5055.


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## Vol (Jul 5, 2009)

The 5055D tested at over 51 hp.

http://www.tractordata.com/farm-tractors/005/7/9/5790-john-deere-5055d.html

Regards, Mike


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## VA Haymaker (Jul 1, 2014)

Vol said:


> The 5055D tested at over 51 hp.
> http://www.tractordata.com/farm-tractors/005/7/9/5790-john-deere-5055d.html
> 
> Regards, Mike


They should do more hp than that - if you turn up the pump. If you look at the specs on the online JD manual for these tractors, the 5045 is set at -1 degs, the 5050 is set at 0 degs and the 5065 is set at +1. I think from the tranny forward, the engine, cooling package, injectors, etc are the same. The 5065 had the 9F/3R tranny whereas the 5045/5055d models have the 8F/4R sync'd between low range and reverse, a straight throw - not unlike a shuttle. I've never messed with the injector on mine, I'm happy with the power it has for what we do. It seems to have no issues with our JD348 baler with wagon on tow - so far.... Very thrifty on fuel - reminds me of the fuel efficiency of my MF50's Perkins diesel, just louder. Power steering is great. They are light on the front end, I'd recommend front weights. Fingers crossed ours will last a long time. Also starting to see them on Tractorhouse used now, low hrs and would consider another one. 3pt hitch with the larger rear tires is tight with cat 1 implements. I see these type tractors on YouTube all over the globe, from South America to India where they are utterly abused. I should think with some care, they'd last a long time - we'll see with mine as I intend to run it until I can't get in it anymore.

To the OP - there are other makes/model utility tractors used out there too, from a MF 135 to late model New Holland Workmasters and MF2600 series tractors that were recently made emissions free. My advice is if you are handy with a wrench and NOT selling hay, go with an older used tractor with older used hay equipment as you can really buy a lot for the price of a late model tractor. If you are selling "horse quality" hay, time is of the essence and so is a tractor that will start every time, no flat tires and for a reliable small square baler, one that will tie a knot every time, so newer/new equipment on those fronts is IMHO a good investment.

I'd like a discbine - one of these days. In the mean time, the Hesston 1110 (I'd recommend this model or its 9ft brother, the 1120) sickle mower conditioner. My 5055d handles mine great.


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## Aldermeadowfarm (Oct 19, 2017)

The 5055e or 5065e are what I'm thinking of. It can get confusing as to why a 4 series JD cannot be used as they can reach the HP needed but not as much weight as the 5 series. My wife can use a 4 with hydrostatic while a 5 will frustrate her. 2ndwindfarm states even with a 4 he had to use low gear and it vibrated a lot. So 5 it is. I would like to get one that doesn't have the emissions nonsense so pre 2014 I believe. All equipment will be used and I could use some suggestions on mowers and round balers if anyone has thoughts. Thanks all.
Mike


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## FarmerCline (Oct 12, 2011)

Aldermeadowfarm said:


> The 5055e or 5065e are what I'm thinking of. It can get confusing as to why a 4 series JD cannot be used as they can reach the HP needed but not as much weight as the 5 series. My wife can use a 4 with hydrostatic while a 5 will frustrate her. 2ndwindfarm states even with a 4 he had to use low gear and it vibrated a lot. So 5 it is. I would like to get one that doesn't have the emissions nonsense so pre 2014 I believe. All equipment will be used and I could use some suggestions on mowers and round balers if anyone has thoughts. Thanks all.
> Mike


 Just because a 4 series may have enough horsepower to theoretically run the machine doesn't mean it can actually handle it. The weight and physical size of the tractor is just as important as horsepower.....especially on hills. Think about it like this......many of today's pickup trucks may actually have more horsepower than a semi truck but that does not mean that the pickup can pull the same size load as the semi since it is not near as heavily built and the drive train and brakes are not designed for pulling/stopping that much weight.

As others have said you most definitely do not want to attempt to pull a round baler with your current lawn tractor. It may be okay though to pull a small sized rake or Tedder. I would encouraged you to consider a disc mower conditioner instead of a sickle but that will increase your horsepower needs to a minimum of about 70hp.


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## 2ndWindfarm (Nov 11, 2014)

Aldermeadowfarm said:


> The 5055e or 5065e are what I'm thinking of. It can get confusing as to why a 4 series JD cannot be used as they can reach the HP needed but not as much weight as the 5 series. My wife can use a 4 with hydrostatic while a 5 will frustrate her. 2ndwindfarm states even with a 4 he had to use low gear and it vibrated a lot. So 5 it is. I would like to get one that doesn't have the emissions nonsense so pre 2014 I believe. All equipment will be used and I could use some suggestions on mowers and round balers if anyone has thoughts. Thanks all.
> Mike


Your situation is a real Deja Vu for me! We had a 7' sickle mower starting out. A couple years of heavy, wet, layed over hay cured me of that mower! Bought a 4-turtle Kuhn disc mower - Gmd400 - I think it was. What a savior that little mower was! Fast, never plugged! Cut Sooo much cleaner, too. We had a NH 254 combo rake/tedder for a few years, too. Kinda along the same line as the Kuhn HayBob you're considering. Sold that after 4 years, too. It would do both jobs, just not real well. It was too hard on the hay when tedding with leaf loss and I could not get the throw angle adjusted enough to keep the hay from ending up in the trees along the field edge. (There's a guy up here been trying to sell his HayBob on Craigslist for the past 3 years or so...) Past 2 years have a 4-basket Kuhn that keeps the hay on the field and is much nicer on the hay leaves, too.
I guess the long and short of this is...evolution - the longer you're doing your own hay be prepared to upgrade and change equipment as money and hay demand shifts.


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## Idaho Hay (Oct 14, 2016)

Well said 2ndWindfarmer. If you can, do it right the first time. If you don't have the resources to do it right, then either wait until you can, or if you must, start small with the intentions to work your way up. Otherwise you'll find yourself frustrated and disappointed... been there, done that.


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## Wethay (Jul 17, 2015)

I have a HayBob and it's much better than not having a tedder. The great thing is when you rake with it it makes real fluffy windrows that look real impressive going into the baler. For me, being a one horse, and not that lively of one at that, outfit I wish I had a four basket tedder. Whenever I'm tedding I think of the time I could be mowing, baling, servicing, etc if I was done in half the time.


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## Aldermeadowfarm (Oct 19, 2017)

I've decided I most likely need a larger tractor, and I'm not going for a combination rake/tedder anymore. A sickle mower can cut a wide swath but clog and leave a rough cut, a disc mower is much faster and efficient, and a mower/conditioner is fast, efficient, and best for the crop. It also seems rake style can also measure differently in terms of crop quality and baler choice. This ain't easy. I'll be going to visit my local Deere, New Holland, and Kubota dealers to see if I can prevent more confusion, we'll see. I am taking my time and researching everything.
Mike


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## Teslan (Aug 20, 2011)

Aldermeadowfarm said:


> I've decided I most likely need a larger tractor, and I'm not going for a combination rake/tedder anymore. A sickle mower can cut a wide swath but clog and leave a rough cut, a disc mower is much faster and efficient, and a mower/conditioner is fast, efficient, and best for the crop. It also seems rake style can also measure differently in terms of crop quality and baler choice. This ain't easy. I'll be going to visit my local Deere, New Holland, and Kubota dealers to see if I can prevent more confusion, we'll see. I am taking my time and researching everything.
> Mike


For your raking and Tedding needs I would stick with your Kuhn dealer. Or if there are Krone, Claas and maybe Vermeer in your area. Deere, NH and Kubota are mostly rebadged other manufacturer rakes and tedders. The few people I know here that have a Kuhn disc mower also think highly of them. Not quite right for my operation but probably good for yours.


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## Dan_GA (Dec 29, 2015)

If you're gonna buy a farm, and farm it, buy real farm equipment. I'm not trying to be an ass. Just trying to save you $, headaches, and possibly medical/funeral bills. It's just how it is. I'm speaking from my own experience, so don't think I'm judging you.


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