# Question On Building a Spear



## Fowllife (Sep 10, 2010)

I need to make a single bale spear for the loader on my tractor. It will have a single center spear with 2 stablizers on the bottom. I only deal with 4x5 bales,so the max. load will be about 1000lbs.

My question is, how should I build it. I have seen some with an all tube frame, plate sides & tube top & bottom, all channel frame. I have access to just about any shape/size/ thickness of material.

I want something that will hold up, but I also don't want to overbuild too much. What have you guys done that has worked, or hasn't worked very well.


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## RockmartGA (Jun 29, 2011)

I think the critical component will be the spear itself. I built one out of 1.5" schedule 40 pipe and it didn't last too long before I bent it. I replaced that with the same size schedule 120 (I think) boiler tube from a scrap yard and it is still in use.

If I had to do it over, I would buy a tapered, forged bale spear and then build my frame to suit. I've seen the forged spears advertized from $69 - $99 online. Well worth the money, IMHO.


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## swmnhay (Jun 13, 2008)

Make it with 2 spears then you don't need stabilizer spears and you can stab lower in the bale to get it higher and have more control of your bale.You don't need quite as big a spear if you have 2 of them.


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## askinner (Nov 15, 2010)

swmnhay said:


> Make it with 2 spears then you don't need stabilizer spears and you can stab lower in the bale to get it higher and have more control of your bale.You don't need quit a big a spear if you have 2 of them.


+1, I have mine the same, and often use them to move light pallets, throw slings over to lift pumps, or lift bags etc. Saves me swapping to pallet forks a lot of the time.


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## Tim/South (Dec 12, 2011)

I built mine out of 3x3 channel, the top piece out of 3x4. I bought a 3,000 rated spear off ebay for $100.

I built the quick attach mount out of flat iron. You really do not want a solid plate wielded on the back. It blocks you from seeing the spear.


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## Hand&Hand Farms (Feb 5, 2011)

I agree with them, 2 spears all the way. Lots of other uses too.


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## Colby (Mar 5, 2012)

I like the 2 bottom spears like others have said. If your stuck on the spear you described check out the hayking.com spear we have them for our case and skid steer. They're pretty nice


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## mlappin (Jun 25, 2009)

I built mine to clip over the cutting edge of the loader bucket then a single pin holds it on back. I use three spears on mine spaced far enough apart so I can carry two at a time with the loader and one on the three point.


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## TessiersFarm (Aug 30, 2009)

I have just 1 spear http://www.agrisupply.com/replacement-bale-spear-with-hole-black/p/49667/&sid=&eid=/

I used 1" steel bar stock for the stabilizer tines, 3"x2"x3/16 tube because thats what I had on hand. Mine attaches to the quick hitch so no bucket, helps visability. I like the idea of 2 spears, would be useful for other things as well I suppose.


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## DSLinc1017 (Sep 27, 2009)

mlappin said:


> I built mine to clip over the cutting edge of the loader bucket then a single pin holds it on back. I use three spears on mine spaced far enough apart so I can carry two at a time with the loader and one on the three point.


I think the site is " everythingatachments.com they have a three spear under 1k and it works great for rounds, big square, moving pallets and getting the occasional tree out of the field! They also will ship for free.


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## AndyL (Mar 9, 2013)

I built mine with 2 spears. You can spear the bale or go under to get more lift. And can also spear 2 bales. Materials on hand 3x6 bottom tube and 3x3 for the rest. Only had to buy spears and sleeves. Love the way they work.


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## Fowllife (Sep 10, 2010)

swmnhay said:


> Make it with 2 spears then you don't need stabilizer spears and you can stab lower in the bale to get it higher and have more control of your bale.You don't need quite as big a spear if you have 2 of them.


Well, I never really thought of this. I think it makes the most sense though. I'm assuming 39" spears would be fine for 4' bales?


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## Fowllife (Sep 10, 2010)

mlappin said:


> I built mine to clip over the cutting edge of the loader bucket then a single pin holds it on back. I use three spears on mine spaced far enough apart so I can carry two at a time with the loader and one on the three point.


That was my first thought, weld some angle to the ends of a piece of tube that I could bolt onto the bucket. I decided against it though due to distance away from pins, lack of visibility, and the fact my bucket is already pretty heavy. With a bigger tractor & moving doubles it would be a different story though.


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## Fowllife (Sep 10, 2010)

DSLinc1017 said:


> I think the site is " everythingatachments.com they have a three spear under 1k and it works great for rounds, big square, moving pallets and getting the occasional tree out of the field! They also will ship for free.


I'm sure I will have less then $250 into mine. A pair of spears @ $75-100 & $50-100 for the steel.


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## swmnhay (Jun 13, 2008)

Fowllife said:


> Well, I never really thought of this. I think it makes the most sense though. I'm assuming 39" spears would be fine for 4' bales?


Yea I believe my double spears are 39" and I use it on 5x6 bales.


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## swmnhay (Jun 13, 2008)

mlappin said:


> I built mine to clip over the cutting edge of the loader bucket then a single pin holds it on back. I use three spears on mine spaced far enough apart so I can carry two at a time with the loader and one on the three point.


That works ok on a backhoe type tractor with plenty of weight in the rear and a heavy duty bucket.But on a typical farm loader it puts a lot of strain on cutting edge of bucket.I've been at a lot of places that have had this type and eventualy they screw up cutting edge on bucket.

I have one for my backhoe and it works fine but wouldn't recommend it on anything lighter.It is also putting the bale out farther ahead being it is mounted in front of the bucket compared to takeing bucket off and just having a spear.

I'm handleing 5x6 bales 1500-2000 lbs so heavier bales then some of you other guys.


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## bastionfarm (Jun 26, 2013)

Mine has a frame made of 3''x3/16 square tubing Idon't know how yours attaches but for mine i used 1/2 flat metal for the bracketts(not a quick attach bucket)and I too would go with a 2 spike set up.Put the spikes in the outer corners weld to side and bottom bolth(adds strength,ties togather critical joint,and gives you more room to weld).One word of caution truck axles and tubing are cheaper but the tapered spikes release from a tight bale much better nothing is abigger pain than trying to stack hay and you keep pulling them back off the stack because your spike is stuck in them. Good luck.


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## Fowllife (Sep 10, 2010)

bastionfarm said:


> Mine has a frame made of 3''x3/16 square tubing Idon't know how yours attaches but for mine i used 1/2 flat metal for the bracketts(not a quick attach bucket)and I too would go with a 2 spike set up.Put the spikes in the outer corners weld to side and bottom bolth(adds strength,ties togather critical joint,and gives you more room to weld).One word of caution truck axles and tubing are cheaper but the tapered spikes release from a tight bale much better nothing is abigger pain than trying to stack hay and you keep pulling them back off the stack because your spike is stuck in them. Good luck.


Yes, I plan on getting forged spikes & sleeves.

As of right now I am leaning towards 3x3 tube for the tope & bottom, and 3/8"x6" plate for the sides. Mine is also not set up for quick attach so I will have 2 plates on each end about 4" apart. The inner one will be coped around the tube. I'm hoping to put the sleeves into the center of the tube at each end. If that turns into more of a pain then it is worth I may just weld the sleeves to the tube & plate & reinforce as needed.


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## AndyL (Mar 9, 2013)

Fowllife, I blew holes in the tube with torch for the sleeves. It's not really hard to do. Just make sure you weld the sleeves in square, or your forks will be off. I would use square tube all the way around, and the 1/2" plates to pen to the loader. It would be a lot stronger with the 3x3 frame. I built mine with 4x not 3x as I stated above. That's what I had on hand, with out having to buy any iron. Got about $140 in mine + welding and time. Good luck with it.


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## T & R Hay Farms (Jan 19, 2012)

If you have access to any material. My dad and I made ours out of 12" I-Beam with a forged 3000# spear and 2 shafts as the stabalizers. I can lift it by hand into the back of my pickup and it is very durable.


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## mlappin (Jun 25, 2009)

swmnhay said:


> That works ok on a backhoe type tractor with plenty of weight in the rear and a heavy duty bucket.But on a typical farm loader it puts a lot of strain on cutting edge of bucket.I've been at a lot of places that have had this type and eventualy they screw up cutting edge on bucket.
> 
> I have one for my backhoe and it works fine but wouldn't recommend it on anything lighter.It is also putting the bale out farther ahead being it is mounted in front of the bucket compared to takeing bucket off and just having a spear.
> 
> I'm handleing 5x6 bales 1500-2000 lbs so heavier bales then some of you other guys.


No doubt about the cutting edge, I've seen loader buckets in the local welding shop the cutting edge looked like a pretzel from the "clamp on" style forklift forks.

I've built a few for a friend or two and on the lighter duty ag buckets I run a piece of angle iron from edge to edge of the bucket with reverse truss on top to spread the strain across the entire cutting edge.

Personally I like the extra reach having the spear on the bucket gives me.


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## Fowllife (Sep 10, 2010)

AndyL said:


> Fowllife, I blew holes in the tube with torch for the sleeves. It's not really hard to do. Just make sure you weld the sleeves in square, or your forks will be off. I would use square tube all the way around, and the 1/2" plates to pen to the loader. It would be a lot stronger with the 3x3 frame. I built mine with 4x not 3x as I stated above. That's what I had on hand, with out having to buy any iron. Got about $140 in mine + welding and time. Good luck with it.


I was originally thinking a tube frame all around, but started to change my mind a little. The frame is only around 20" high, so I think the plate would hold up fine, especially with 2 on each side. Plus I need the tabs for the pins to be 4 1/2" apart which would add more pieces for spacers to weld to the tube.


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## Fowllife (Sep 10, 2010)

T & R Hay Farms said:


> If you have access to any material. My dad and I made ours out of 12" I-Beam with a forged 3000# spear and 2 shafts as the stabalizers. I can lift it by hand into the back of my pickup and it is very durable.


That actually gives me another idea, I could use a 12" channel. Point the channel toes toward the tractor & cope a couple of plates on the ends to pin it on. Burn a couple holes in the channel & iinstall the sleeves almost flush with the flat face, add a plat from toe to toe on the back side to stablize the sleeves....

How is the shorter frame for stabliity? It would seem that with a taller frame & the spears on the top the bale could rest more on the bottom, & might want to roll forwards more without that support.


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## foz682 (Jan 10, 2013)

My uncle built a frame out of pipe, it accept a 2" spear we got made out of round stock. Had to get a longer spear made when we switched to soft core chopped bales, 3ft stab into the bale and it's 4ft overall.


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