# Baler chain lube revisited.



## YODA (Oct 24, 2013)

I did a search and understand there are two preferred chain lubricants. The John Deere stuff and JB. is this the JB product folks have been using. My TSC does not carry, but can order for me. John Deere dealer is a ways away.

http://www.tractorsupply.com/en/store/justice-brosreg%3B-heavy-duty-chain-lube-13-oz

BTW how is this stuff about attracting dirt?

Thanks.

PS: if it matters this is for a Hesston 4550 bailer. Manual says to use engine oil but I am concerned about attracting a lot of dirt on the chain from dusty fields. Dealer said to run chain dry so as to not have this issue. The engineer in me says lube it with something that repels water and dirt as I hear this product does.


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## Grateful11 (Apr 5, 2009)

I could take a photo of the chains in the JD 448 here as the chains have never been cleaned other than blowing them off with an air nozzle or leaf blower. The only lube it's ever had on the chains is JD Chain ans Cable lube. Unless one is going to lube with graphite I doubt there's anything out there that isn't going to attract at least some dust and dirt. Personally I wouldn't want to run them dry.


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## SwingOak (May 19, 2014)

A dry moly lube is great for chains. CRC makes a good one.


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## Grateful11 (Apr 5, 2009)

SwingOak said:


> A dry moly lube is great for chains. CRC makes a good one.


Sounds like something we might want to try:

http://www.crcindustries.com/ei/product_detail.aspx?id=03084


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## SwingOak (May 19, 2014)

Grateful11 said:


> Sounds like something we might want to try:
> http://www.crcindustries.com/ei/product_detail.aspx?id=03084


That's the stuff. If there's already oil or grease on the chain, clean it off first with brake cleaner before spraying on the moly lube. It drys quick too.


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## MT hayer (Mar 1, 2014)

This is going to sound funny but I have better luck running the chains dry. Less dirt that sits there and grinds on the chain. Two, when the chain slacks with lube, dirt gets under the chain and causes the links to ride out futher on the sprockets, causing premature wear on the sprocket teeth. Three, it just makes a big fire hazard and a mess to work on. I might spray them down at the end of a shift so it soaks in and keeps the moisture out. Reason for this is the chains are warm and will hold any lube better.

And always buy good chain!!


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## Gearclash (Nov 25, 2010)

Here are some of my thoughts on baler chain lubrication, in no particular order.

The dust of hay is generally not so abrasive, compared to the dust of crop residues.

Engine oil seems to be the best lubricant, and the best dirt attractant.

Chain quality matters. I used to run Daido chain, and without lubrication it would get too hot to touch on my round baler.

I have been experimenting with O ring chain, and the results so far have been promising. I have been seeing quite a bit of sprocket wear under the 80 O ring chain, so it seems some lubrication would be in order there, probably some kind of cycle chain lube.


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## Nitram (Apr 2, 2011)

I'm having difficulty wrapping my head around the notion that lubed dirt will wear metal faster than dry hot metal rubbing together...but I am no engineer


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## Colby (Mar 5, 2012)

I will stick with heavy weight gear oil.


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## rajela (Feb 15, 2014)

Well I have noticed that the pick up & rotor chain (not sure what the tech name is the small chain on left hand side of baler) on the JD 468 gets a good bit of sand and dirt on them but the upper and lower drive chain usually just have a lot of hay or grass dust.


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## jtpfarm (Aug 19, 2011)

Slip plate makes a chain lube that's dry graphite. Have to soak the chains up pretty good at first but after that it doesn't take as much. Stays dry so it doesn't attract dust


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## bluefarmer (Oct 10, 2010)

Greasy/oily hay dust is slicker than dry hay dust, I try to oil an grease when I quit not before I start,everything is warm and will draw it in better is my theory.


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## Gearclash (Nov 25, 2010)

> I'm having difficulty wrapping my head around the notion that lubed dirt will wear metal faster than dry hot metal rubbing together...but I am no engineer


I'm no engineer to explain this, but engine valve grinding compound, which will quickly wear the hardest metals, is grease with abrasive in it.


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## Thumbtack (Jun 18, 2012)

Schaffers has a chain lube that works great it has moly in it and when it dries the moly stays on the chain. Tried other types of chain lube but this works the best for me.

Joe Bob


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## Grateful11 (Apr 5, 2009)

Thumbtack said:


> Schaffers has a chain lube that works great it has moly in it and when it dries the moly stays on the chain. Tried other types of chain lube but this works the best for me.
> 
> Joe Bob


Is this the one: http://www.schaefferoil.com/roller-chain-lube.html


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## SwingOak (May 19, 2014)

Thumbtack said:


> Schaffers has a chain lube that works great it has moly in it and when it dries the moly stays on the chain. Tried other types of chain lube but this works the best for me.
> 
> Joe Bob





Grateful11 said:


> Is this the one: http://www.schaefferoil.com/roller-chain-lube.html


Looks like the same stuff as the CRC. Kano Labs makes something similar too called Molyfilm. I haven't used Molyfilm myself, but it's probably pretty good, I wouldn't be without a can of Kroil in the shop, that's for sure.


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## swmnhay (Jun 13, 2008)

I've been using the JB chain lube.Thinking about trying something else.a can doesn't go far,takes a whole can to do 12 row planter.And it attracts dust.And its spendy $8-10 per can.


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## Thumbtack (Jun 18, 2012)

That is the stuff Grateful. Works great. I don't know about the CRC product have never used it.

Schaeffers products are really good.


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## F350-6 (Mar 30, 2014)

The claims of the moly lube not attracting dust are hard to believe. Anyone got a picture of their chains after baling some hay using the moly chain lube?

I can't imagine anything not being covered in dust or grass pieces after baling.


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## SwingOak (May 19, 2014)

It's dry. Moly lube doesn't repel dust, but dust doesn't stick to it any more than any other dry metal surface. You can blow the dust off and reapply as necessary. It was the only thing we found where I used to work that kept polypropylene dust (which is attracted to and absorbs oil) from sticking to and sucking all the lube out of drive chains.


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## Grateful11 (Apr 5, 2009)

These chains have never been cleaned just lubed with JD Chain Lube. It's has about 3000 bales on it.


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## ETXhayman (Jul 19, 2012)

At the end of the day when the chains are hot I clean out all the excess chaff from around the chains and turn the pto on while leaving the tractor at an idle and spray the chains (from a distance) with some PB Blaster or a similar type of lubricant.

I always do this only after I have parked the tractor and the baler in the place they will be for the night so that dust wont fly up onto the chains while they are wet.

I use to just use some 15 w40 oil but it made a mess where it dripped down off the chains and I had to get too close for comfort to the chains to get them oiled good.


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## treymo (Dec 29, 2013)

Where can you get ahold of some of the 'moly' stuff? Down here in the gritty sand we're going through chains and sprockets every 2000 bales at most. 
Trey


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## MT hayer (Mar 1, 2014)

Can you take that chain off and lay it on the floor Grateful? Then pull it in a curve and see how far it goes? I am not saying chains don't run a little warmer without lube, it is true. However, I have found running swathers and balers for a while now, I can get longer life out of both, chain and sprockets, running dry.


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## SwingOak (May 19, 2014)

treymo said:


> Where can you get ahold of some of the 'moly' stuff? Down here in the gritty sand we're going through chains and sprockets every 2000 bales at most.
> Trey


Try an auto parts store. Last time I bought some for home use I'm pretty sure I got it at NAPA.


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## mlappin (Jun 25, 2009)

Gearclash said:


> I have been experimenting with O ring chain, and the results so far have been promising. I have been seeing quite a bit of sprocket wear under the 80 O ring chain, so it seems some lubrication would be in order there, probably some kind of cycle chain lube.


You need to run the o-ring chain lube, some lubes will deteriorate the o-rings, also wipe off the excess lube. Excess lube will draw grit to the o-rings and the grit will eat the o-rings up. From personal experience with dirt bikes when I was racing. O-ring chain was expensive but worth it in the long run.



Gearclash said:


> I'm no engineer to explain this, but engine valve grinding compound, which will quickly wear the hardest metals, is grease with abrasive in it.


Last stuff I used was water based, big difference in grades of abrasive as well.



Nitram said:


> I'm having difficulty wrapping my head around the notion that lubed dirt will wear metal faster than dry hot metal rubbing together...but I am no engineer


It's not so much lubed dirt, but the fact the lubed dirt keeps the lube from reaching the entire surface between the pin and internal roller.

A person needs to either:

A: Run a chain dry, this keeps the chain from attracting and holding dirt in the wear areas or preferably,

B: Use enough lube to carry the dirt out of the wear areas.

I have the auto chain luber on my baler. Applies some fresh oil everytime you open the tailgate, set at a pretty high rate. Any oil thats flung off quickly attracts hay dust and almost becomes a solid that can be blown off with the air wand. Haven't had the need to replace any chains or even adjust any chain tensioners since having the baler for 4 or 5 years now.


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## mlappin (Jun 25, 2009)

One last thing, I have one chain on the baler that is not auto lubed, is the one on the right on a BR740A that runs the sledge roll with the slip clutch built into it, they don't auto lube it as too much oil and the clutches will slip. That one I lube after I'm done baling and the chain is nice and warm, draws the lube right into the rollers that way.


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## Nitram (Apr 2, 2011)

mlappin said:


> I have the auto chain luber on my baler. Applies some fresh oil everytime you open the tailgate, set at a pretty high rate. Any oil thats flung off quickly attracts hay dust and almost becomes a solid that can be blown off with the air wand. Haven't had the need to replace any chains or even adjust any chain tensioners since having the baler for 4 or 5 years now.


I too have the auto oiler last year I removed chains soaked in diesel let drain then soaked in oil let hang/drain. Oil will collect dust not attract small distinction I know. Any time two metals rub together I want lubricant involved


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## YODA (Oct 24, 2013)

Well tractor supply, no longer carry JB they now have an off brand at twice the price.

I got lucky though - dropped by the local JD construction company and they had their brand on the shelf. Stuff foamed up great, and is very dry to the touch after a day. we will see how it goes.

Thanks for the help


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