# NH270 square baler breaks shear bolts



## nokiddin (May 13, 2019)

Hey everyone! I am new to the forum and hoping to gain a little advice/guidance.

Last year a purchased a NH 270 square baler. Very old of course, but in very good shape.

When I was using it, it worked quite well, without any additional set up, but the bales were super light. Like 30 lbs. I turned up the tension, and I got the bales to what felt like 50 or 55 lbs, but at that tension, I broke a shear bolt on the flywheel every time the knotter tripped. If I backed off the tension, it got better, but the bales are just too light. I would like to get 60 to 80 lb if I could.

I was baling an a 50/50 grass Alfalfa hay, and it was at 14-15 percent moisture. Using a 60 horse tractor. Trying for 70 strokes a minute and 16 flakes a bale.

I went through the baler and it seems all the timing settings are correct according to the manual. The only thing I noticed is that one of the aluminum fingers is broke off about halfway. It's the fingers on the bale chamber side that is broken.

Just wondering if anyone has suggestions as to the problem? I am assuming this baler had to be able to make heavier bales.

Thanks for the help!


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## 8350HiTech (Jul 26, 2013)

Are you using the proper bolts?


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## Tx Jim (Jun 30, 2014)

Welcome to HT

My guess is if proper bolts are being utilized is hole in shear bolt sleeve(key 6) that shear bolt goes in is worn. Sleeve part # is 56862. How snug is bushing(key 5) on input shaft of gearbox? Also check slip clutch to be sure it's not stuck tight.


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## nokiddin (May 13, 2019)

Yes I believe in using the proper bolts. There was 2 bags of NH bolts in the baler when I bought it, so have been using those. I didn't think the sleeve was worn, but I'll have to check it again.

Is there a particular way to check the slip clutch?


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## Tx Jim (Jun 30, 2014)

I don't know the spec's for NH slip clutch BUT I'll bet if it hasn't slipped lately it's STUCK. A stuck slip clutch on JD sq baler will cause flywheel bolt to shear prematurely but I'm not sure about NH sq baler.


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## glasswrongsize (Sep 15, 2015)

Would wedges help?


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## mlappin (Jun 25, 2009)

If it only shears when it goes to tie a knot, your knotter timing is off.

Yes I know it only seemed to happen with tighter bales, but that old of a baler you're gonna have a lot of play in stuff, I also imagine the hay dogs are either stuck or most of the springs are broke. So the tighter the bale the more resistance to get the needles thru the bale, so then all the slop is ate up in all of your linkages which ends up making the needles slow and it trips the safety which in turn catches the plunger arm and blows the shear bolt.

You need to get yourself a manual for that baler and first check the knotter chain to make sure its not wore out, then check knotter timing. Then check to make sure the spring on the safety catch is actually there and in good condition, then check to make sure all the hay dogs are free and they have good springs on those.

A manual will also cover the slip clutch. Don't remember on the square balers but New Holland recommends burnishing the slip clutch on the round balers before use each year.


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## Tx Jim (Jun 30, 2014)

mlappin said:


> If it only shears when it goes to tie a knot, your knotter timing is off.
> 
> Yes I know it only seemed to happen with tighter bales, So the tighter the bale the more resistance to get the needles thru the bale,


No small sq balers I've been around attempts to put the needles ""through the bale of hay"" unless severely out of time with a nonoperational plungerhead stop. Normally attempting to put needles through hay during tying cycle with a non operational PH stop will result in broken or bent needles. Shearing bolt while attempting to tie could also be caused by needle dragging on baler frame or on knotter.


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## mlappin (Jun 25, 2009)

Tx Jim said:


> No small sq balers I've been around attempts to put the needles ""through the bale of hay"" unless severely out of time with a nonoperational plungerhead stop. Normally attempting to put needles through hay during tying cycle with a non operational PH stop will result in broken or bent needles. Shearing bolt while attempting to tie could also be caused by needle dragging on baler frame or on knotter.


Yah I know, but we also had a 276 Hayliner that'd blow shear bolts all day with a 60 pound bale, lighten up to 50 it was fine. Replaced numerous bushings in the linkage between the knotter stack and needle arm, also replaced bushings in the needle arm and installed a new timing chain, Could toss 60 pounders all day into the thrower wagons after a meticulous tuneup. Not sure why those 10lbs made a difference but it did, also replaced about half the hay dog springs.

I had one other maddening experience with that 276, it'd bale all day then start to blow bales apart. Twine would hang on one bill hook, loosen the nut up a 16th of a turn and it'd be fine again for thousands of bales then same old same old. Those stupid little stamped tin nuts they use on the bill how tension springs get wore out and this one appeared to tighten up with vibration. Replaced both and never had another issue.


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## mike10 (May 29, 2011)

The 270-271 balers had a poor haydog setup. The concept was good but did not work the best. The haydogs were two spring loaded straps of steel located in the needle slots top and bottom and the needle would pass through them. The straps can seize and not work at all after all these years.

The needle latch adjustment needs to be checked if you are shearing NH shear bolts. If you are using regular bolts you will get plenty of exercise getting on and off the tractor to replace the bolts. Low rpm's will also increase the load on the shear bolts.


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## Tx Jim (Jun 30, 2014)

Mike10

Will a seized/stuck slip clutch cause shear bolt to break on a NH baler? I know it will on a JD sq baler but the pto drives on both brands of balers are totally different.

Thanks,Jim


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## mike10 (May 29, 2011)

Yes it will, but this is a late 1960's baler so it has probably had plenty of use and wear.in the flywheel bushing and shear bolt hubs. It sounds more like the needle latch is out of adjustment or wrong bolts.


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## mlappin (Jun 25, 2009)

Tx Jim said:


> No small sq balers I've been around attempts to put the needles ""through the bale of hay"" unless severely out of time with a nonoperational plungerhead stop. Normally attempting to put needles through hay during tying cycle with a non operational PH stop will result in broken or bent needles. Shearing bolt while attempting to tie could also be caused by needle dragging on baler frame or on knotter.


If i remember correctly the spring on a NH safety stop holds it in the retracted position, if the spring is weak or broke the slop in the linkage assemblies can let the stop pop out just enough to blow a shear bolt, yet when you look at it, its in the retracted position.


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## mike10 (May 29, 2011)

Spring pulls the latch in to the chamber


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## broadriverhay (Jun 13, 2014)

NH recommends burnishing the clutch on the BC 5070 I know. Nerve racking but I did do it on my new baler. You need to make sure the clutch does not seize in the off season as well. Also you need to make sure the clutch slips just a little each stroke per the manual.


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## Tx Jim (Jun 30, 2014)

IMHO & over 50 yrs of hands on experience the majority of equipment operators fail to check to be sure slip clutch is functioning as designed. I have also been guilty of not checking for correct operation of slip clutch before putting implement in service for 1st time of season.


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## bool (Mar 14, 2016)

Yes, a stuck or over-tightened or otherwise not-working-properly slip clutch can result in all kinds of unexpected and nasty damage.

Roger


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## nokiddin (May 13, 2019)

Thanks for all the great info everyone!
Sounds like I have a lot to go through. 
I do have the owners manual for the baler already.

I should mention that while baling light bales, they were prob 40 lb or so, it broke the shear bolt occasionally, every 30 to 50 bales or so. But when I turned up the tension, it broke it every bale. I guess that made me think something in the knotter must be getting caught to bust the bolts, since it broke when the knotter got tripped.

Is there any way I can test things out without making actual bales? I have a feeling this will take a lot of tinkering and trial and error, and I probably won't always have dry hay around to test with. Or if I do, I'll be hesitant to spend time with trial and error.


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## nokiddin (May 13, 2019)

I was taking a look at the baler, and noticed that the flywheel had a fair amount of play or wobble in it. The edge of the flywheel probably moves about 1/4 inch at the edge of it. Assuming this could also break shear bolts? Is there a bushing to be changed?


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## r82230 (Mar 1, 2016)

I'd say not a problem (at least on my old JD24T), hut what do I know.


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## Tx Jim (Jun 30, 2014)

nokiddin said:


> Is there a bushing to be changed?


Replaceable flywheel bushing is key 5. All small sq balers I've been associated with have a similar replaceable bushing. Worn out bushing affects FW shear bolt longevity as does worn shear bolt holes


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## nokiddin (May 13, 2019)

Hey I have finally got to looking at this baler closer. While adjusting the timing I noticed that the feeder chain looked wrong. Can any of you tell me if this is right for a 270? (see pic) The tensioner bolt wasn't even connected to the tensioner pulley! I think someone took this all apart before I bought it and never assembled it correctly after.

For now I have put the tensioner on the bottom of the chain so the tensioner pulls upward to tighten it, but I can't seem to get the chain tight enough this way.


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## Leeroy (Aug 19, 2013)

I just looked at my 270 and it is the same routing as your picture. I cannot find my owners manual so not sure this is correct. My 276 and 316 are mounted the opposite.fwiw


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## nokiddin (May 13, 2019)

I have been looking through the manual and can't find a clear indication of how it goes. One picture makes it look one way, another picture makes it look the other way. It seems odd that tensioner would push the pulley, rather than pull on it


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## mike10 (May 29, 2011)

Idler goes under lower strand of chain and pulls up to tighten. You should see a draw bolt behind the idler to pull the idler up.


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## mike10 (May 29, 2011)

The pull in on the top strand of chain. If that idler would slip the timing would change ane cause you a headache

The pdf is from the owners manual. Though not completely clear you can see the idler under the lower strand.

Very seldom do you see idlers on the pull side of the chain because the load will push them out of adjustment.


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## Edd in KY (Jul 16, 2009)

I have a NH270 baler as my backup, and it has been baling as Numero-Uno for this spring, while we worked on the NH276. I can't figure out why you want a 80Lb bale. 40 to 50 is normal. Stressing that old girl to make 80 LB bales is asking for trouble...in the baler or in your back. When I crank mine down too tight, it begins to miss-tie,

At a 50 lb bale it tied 150 in a row, then we went to the house for the night.


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## nokiddin (May 13, 2019)

For now I have installed the idler on top of the top strand, since it seemed like I would have to take out 2 or 3 chain links to get the chain even close to tight if routed the other way.

I was able to find out several things today.

1. The needle safety latch was getting hit by the plunger about every second time I tripped the knotters (manually turning the baler empty). I do recall last year heading a big bang once in awhile and assume this was the cause of the bang. I have adjusted the latch so this no longer hapoens.

2. Almost every chain on the baler was loose, so I snubbed them all up and ensured the baler was in time according to the timing marks.

3. The manual says that when the needles just enter the bale chamber, they should be 1/4 to 3/4 inch from the protrusions in the plunger. But on mine, despite all timing marks being lined up, the needles enter the bale chamber when those plunger protrusions are still 5.5 inches behind the tips of the needles. So apparently way off. Can this be adjusted?

4. The manual also says the needle yoke should come to 1/4 to 3/4 inch from the bale chamber at full penetration, however mine is probably 4 inches or so away.

The baler never missed a tie last year, so I don't even know if I bother adjusting these things. You can tell the needles were broken and welded at some point, and the repair didn't make the needles have their perfect curve but very close. Not sure that would change anything.

5. 3 out of 4 hay dogs are seized. I take it I should change these?

6. Flywheel bushing seems worn, since there is play in it.

So I guess I have all these reasons for the potential cause of breaking so many flywheel shear bolts.

If you guys can add any insight, that'd be great!


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## nokiddin (May 13, 2019)

Thanks for the info Mike. I guess I'll have to change the configuration of the idler, and take some chain links out then.

Thanks for the tip Edd, to be honest I'll be happy with 50 lb bales. Thing is I couldn't get anywhere above something like 30 or 35 without busting shear bolts like crazy. You couldn't even carry them hardly or they'd fall apart, let alone stack them.


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## Leeroy (Aug 19, 2013)

When I changed the hay dogs and the wedges in the bale chamber in my 270, it started making great bales.


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## Edd in KY (Jul 16, 2009)

Well, where to start? When I bought my 270 it would bale, but then started to shear pins and even broke a drive chain. So, I started from scratch. Checked all the chains, all had multiple repairs, all stretched. Adding All New chains only cost about 50 bucks, well worth the price. The drive chain was miss routed just like yours.
The previous owner had really messed up the baler and I was lucky I did not destroy it the first day I used it.

First your pictured drive chain has the wrong routing. look at the picture some one sent you from the manual.

The chain from the pulling sprocket (gear box) to the pulled sprocket (feeder) should always be a direct line! That is what keeps the sprockets timed properly. The idler is to take out the slack on the return side of the chain.

In timing the baler, start with the drive chain and get it properly timed to the next (feeder) sproket, then add the knotter chain properly timed. (an extra set of hands to hold stuff in place is a big help). The plunger stop on the baler is back by the knotters and actually is pulled into hit the plunger by springs. Sounds like you have adjusted it properly.

As for the needle dimensions (I have no ideas) sounds like they may have changed the shape when rewelding.

If it ties and doesn't break the needles I guess it is OK.

I put a new flywheel bushing in my 276 last year. worst part is lifting off and reinstalling the heavy flywheel. It takes 2 very strong guys, one on each side. The bushing is about $50.There is a gear lash adjustment wheel on the front of the gear box if you have play in the gear box. Also check the bushing where the crank arm connects to the plunger drive bar. Some had a bushing, some had a bearing. I replaced the bushing which was worn and sloppy.

My old 270 is doing a good job. Not fast, but nice 50lb bales.


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## Edd in KY (Jul 16, 2009)

Just found this video on YouTube. A NH271 is just like like a 270 except it has a longer tongue and 2 piece PTO shaft. Interesting.


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## nokiddin (May 13, 2019)

Hey thanks for all that information. Sorry I must have missed the update on this thread!

I will try to re route the chain, might need to pull a link out to get it tight enough.

I have ordered the flywheel bushing, so hopefully can change that. You are right about that flywheel being heavy!

Also found 3 hay dogs seized and apparently these are no longer available as parts, so I have loosened them up with penetrating oil, but I'm not sure how well they'll work, they are still quite stiff.


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## mike10 (May 29, 2011)

A littleheat will help loosen the haydogs. They need to be free.


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## nokiddin (May 13, 2019)

Well I managed to get the hay dogs loosened up with penetrating oil and heat. Thanks for the tip about the heat, i think it made a difference. I also had to grind the rust of the side of the dogs, find the sides of the slot that the dogs run in and clean up the spring and its Groove in order to get it to work. I guess there was just too much binding going on. Finally now they will push into the chamber.

Also rerouted the feeder chain. I had to remove one link to get it to be tight enough. Interestingly enough.... The chain had one link adjacent to where it comes apart with a cutter pin in it. So I dunno if some one actually added a link to it at some point or what, but it made it easy to take that link out. Chain is nice and tight now.

Now I wait on a flywheel bushing and shear bolt sleeve.

One question I have is that the left tine bar fingers are broken. One still has a little bit of curve in it, the other had the whole curved portion broken off. Can this work ok like this? Last year I didn't think the bales had uneven density or anything.


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## mike10 (May 29, 2011)

As long as you are satisfied with the bales you do not need to do anything.


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## nokiddin (May 13, 2019)

Hey everyone I need more help. I'm replacing that flywheel bushing, and I have the new one almost all the way in, but there is still a quarter inch to go. The flywheel doesn't fit in my shop press, so I've been pounding it in with a sledge and wood or plastic to protect the bushing. But now that it is so close, the bushing seems to just sink in to the wood or plastic and not make any progress.

I didn't oil the inner flywheel first, but I did use emery to clean it up. It took a lot of force to get it this far.

Any ideas on what I could do to get it the rest of the way?


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## mike10 (May 29, 2011)

Just thinking how to do this. You might try to straddle a tractor over the flywheel, place a heavy flat plate over the bushing and block under the flywheel hub and place a hydraulic jack between the tractor drawbar hanger or solid support and flywheel and use the jack as a press. Support the under side of the flywheel hub so the force does not break the hub out of the flywheel.


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## Edd in KY (Jul 16, 2009)

It sounds like there may be a tiny ridge inside the hub, blocking progress. Not sure how to drive it back out to ream out the hole. we did not encounter this problem when we replaced the bushing. Sorry, can't help.


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## nokiddin (May 13, 2019)

Quick update. The bushing went in. I had to use a hydraulic jack like Mike said, and brace it under the drawbar of a 120 hp Kubota tractor, with a discbine attached. It didn't go in until the weight was off the tires.


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## Tate (Jun 11, 2019)

Sounds like the brake isn't getting out of the way when the needles retract. Pull the twine (don't ask me how i know this lol), trip the machine spin it by hand, watch to see if it's hitting the brake. Not sure on a 270 but on my 273 there is an adjustment bolt. On the old machines witout adjustment it may be wore enough that the needle bar isn't hitting early enough. If thats the case you may need to weld something on so that it will hit earlier.


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## Tx Jim (Jun 30, 2014)

Tate

I think you mean the PH stop isn't getting out of the way not the brake. The brake doesn't actually move on a small sq baler.

Jim


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## nokiddin (May 13, 2019)

Well guys, thanks for all the help. Baled today and in general the bales are much better. For the most part 50 lbs in a alfalfa grass mix, but had to have a full swath to feed. It was poor with lighter loose bales in straight grass, but very thin windrows. I don't think I can even tighten the tensioner any more.

I'm assuming this might be a case of what I've heard how new holland balers like a heavy swath.

The hay I was baling was prob under 14% moisture, perhaps less, so maybe it'll be hard to even make a heavier bale with that.

Only thing is, that the right side of the bale is longer, which I'm assuming is because of my broken/short left tine finger. I previously didn't think this was an issue but maybe because I've fixed everything else, it is now showing up.

Also, the twines just aren't as tight as I'd like. Can I increase the twine tension? Or is this as good as it gets for this old baler.

Best news is, never broke one shear bolt this year. I think the main issue was the needle safety latch out of adjustment. Thanks so much for all the help. Love this forum.


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## Wethay (Jul 17, 2015)

Twine tension isn't going to effect bale tension. You might look at your restrictor plates. The broken tine finger most likely should be on the to be dealt with list, and the manual should give you guidance when it comes to evening out bale lenght side to side. A moisture meter maybe something to consider, it helps take the guess work out of when to bale. I don't know your model of baler, and not much at all of that color of balers but I would think hay at 14ish% could be tensioned down to breaking strings tight.


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## skyrydr2 (Oct 25, 2015)

Pay close attention to your feed fingers and be sure all are moving free and springs are good. Also the set closest to plunger opening are NOT EQUAL LENGTH one is shorter than the other. 
Also with the 270-310 series balers feeding them hay in the correct spot on pick-up is tricky especially with light grass hay. 
When the sward is light go faster to keep it fed. Mine liked it dead center of pick-up to the outer edge. Seemed to make a more uniform bale. 
If you want tighter strings on the bales you need to add more wedges to chamber sides. 
My old 310 just could not make a tight bale like my 575 does.


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## Tx Jim (Jun 30, 2014)

Ditto on adding wedges to increase bale weights & tighten twine holding bales together.


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## W Bench Farms (May 19, 2016)

On my 270, the knotter timing marks do not line up correctly. I have to time the needles to the plunger, and advance the timing just a little. After about 300-400 bales, the timing slowly moves, and I will break shear pins again. I have replaced all of the drive chains, and same things. I just make sure that I check the timing before I head to the field. Haven't figured it out, all I can think is that there is enough wear in the gearboxes and everything else to slowly get things out of time. Works like a sewing machine other than that.


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