# To spray or not to spary Rezilon on my Bermuda?



## Ranger518

So the last two years my stand of midland 99, as I have talked about before has started to thin out and not yielded as good as it has in the past with good soil samples and lots of fertilizer and last year I got crab grass pretty bad and unfortunately the crabgrass went to seed before I could get it cut on last cutting. I have been told several things to do and try like to not spray it with prowell h20 for a year and just use post herbicides do to prowell could be causing the stand to thin and to try running a pasture renovator over it to help on compaction and cut up the Bermuda and help it spread and see what happens. So I got a hay king type pasture renovator this winter I plan on using but I am afraid that if I don’t spray a pre herbicide I am going to have really really bad crabgrass issues this year but I also don’t want my stand to thin out more. What do you guys think I should do?


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## weedman

A couple of things:

1) When you say thin, what do you have? 50% coverage or more?

2) if you are going to run the renovator over it, do so before spraying Prowl or Rezilon. If you do it after, you will break the herbicide barrier and the seed will germinate through it.

Legal POST herbicide options are limited and some will hurt bermuda also. If it were me, I'd spray Rezilon in the next couple of weeks. A heavy crabgrass stand will hurt the bermuda growth a lot more than a PRE will hold it back. Full disclosure: I developed Rezilon, so some may say I'm biased.


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## broadriverhay

@ weedman. While we have your attention. If Rezilon is showing residual effects for 22 months I think it was stated. Why is it recommended to apply twice a year and how many consecutive years should we need to apply it. Several people have asked me this question. Also I applied Rezilon last year and I have absolutely nothing green in my field. I plan on applying Rezilon in a few weeks. Would you recommend applying Glyphosate with the Rezilon to kill any plants that might be there that are too small to really see or not.


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## Ranger518

weedman said:


> A couple of things:
> 1) When you say thin, what do you have? 50% coverage or more?
> 2) if you are going to run the renovator over it, do so before spraying Prowl or Rezilon. If you do it after, you will break the herbicide barrier and the seed will germinate through it.
> 
> Legal POST herbicide options are limited and some will hurt bermuda also. If it were me, I'd spray Rezilon in the next couple of weeks. A heavy crabgrass stand will hurt the bermuda growth a lot more than a PRE will hold it back. Full disclosure: I developed Rezilon, so some may say I'm biased.


I would say I have 75% coverage or more no bare spots just not as thick as it once was and yields really show it. Yea I figured it would be best to spray it after I ran the pasture renovator over it which means I need to rip it soon. it was recommended to Rip it after the Bermuda has started to grow so it would cut it up and cause it to spread more thinking my stand but I know this would not be best as far as weed control. But do y'all thank ripping the field and spraying with relizon would still be best? As I know post herbicide on crab grass don't do to well.


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## somedevildawg

Ranger518 said:


> I would say I have 75% coverage or more no bare spots just not as thick as it once was and yields really show it. Yea I figured it would be best to spray it after I ran the pasture renovator over it which means I need to rip it soon. it was recommended to Rip it after the Bermuda has started to grow so it would cut it up and cause it to spread more thinking my stand but I know this would not be best as far as weed control. But do y'all thank ripping the field and spraying with relizon would still be best? As I know post herbicide on crab grass don't do to well.


You're right they don't.....
Is the crabgrass over the entire field? Most times it just concentrated in certain spots. I would do a controlled application just where I had problems in the past with CG. I wouldn't run the renovator over that area at all....
Seems we've discussed this before but what are your samples showing? With most Bermuda fields thinning of the grass is usually a result of shallow roots and a deficiency of K......what about Ph? Repeated applications of An can really eat up your Ph....


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## Ranger518

somedevildawg said:


> You're right they don't.....
> Is the crabgrass over the entire field? Most times it just concentrated in certain spots. I would do a controlled application just where I had problems in the past with CG. I wouldn't run the renovator over that area at all....
> Seems we've discussed this before but what are your samples showing? With most Bermuda fields thinning of the grass is usually a result of shallow roots and a deficiency of K......what about Ph? Repeated applications of An can really eat up your Ph....


Yea we have talked about it before. It is not really in one area of the field so spot spraying not really possible it is thicker in some areas though. My soil test show everything is in the optimal level as with a 6.9ph and last year I really fed the fertilizer to it which really did not improve it i even doubled up the Fertilizer application on about 2 acer to see what happened and from the time I fertilized it to the time I cut it about 4 weeks you could not tell the difference.


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## weedman

broadriverhay said:


> @ weedman. While we have your attention. If Rezilon is showing residual effects for 22 months I think it was stated. Why is it recommended to apply twice a year and how many consecutive years should we need to apply it. Several people have asked me this question. Also I applied Rezilon last year and I have absolutely nothing green in my field. I plan on applying Rezilon in a few weeks. Would you recommend applying Glyphosate with the Rezilon to kill any plants that might be there that are too small to really see or not.


I think that spraying for weed control, PRE or POST, is an every year activity. In our minds, we think that if we control weeds 2-3 years in a row, that we should be lessening the population over time. Unfortunately, seeds can live for many years in the soil, some species for several decades, and the seed bank is huge. So I think this fight will be one we have to do every year. The residual for Rezilon is long, but the 22 month restriction on planting is from some work done on our crop side of the business (the corn, cotton, soybean folks). There, they rotate to other crops, and some are especially sensitive to this chemistry, particularly cereals. So, even a minor reduction for them is huge. It is different for weed control, where we want to get good-excellent control of weeds. From my experience, if you apply 3 oz of Rezilon in Feb, you will see good crabgrass control until about midsummer, when you will start to see some escapes (although control still may be acceptable, depending on your goals). If you had put 5 out, you get crabgrass control most of the year and also can see a good reduction in ryegrass the next winter. The program of 3 oz followed by another 3 oz in mid-late summer has shown to be the most consistent from year to year. As to your situation, if you don't see any weeds out there, I don't think you need to put gly in with it. I wouldn't do anything to set the bermuda back if I didn't have to. Just make sure and get it out early. We say get it on before Valentines day, and i think that will hold true for where you are in SC also.


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## endrow

If your stand is thin and you spray Rezilon and you stand does not make it and you need to reseed , must you wait 22 months to reseed


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## weedman

Ranger, last fall, one of the farmers I have been working with wanted to run the renovator over his field. I suggested he do that before spraying last fall to target ryegrass. So, he got his last cut, ran the renovator over the field, then sprayed his Rezilon about a week later after he had gotten a ran to settle the soil. He did include 10 oz of Roundup as it was late September and ryegrass had begun to germinate. That field is clean as it gets and I feel sure he accomplished his goal with the renovator.

I think in your situation I would spray in the next few weeks, see how the field looks later this summer, then decide if you want to run the renovator through there or not. At that point, you have gotten a couple of clean cuttings and the reduction in crabgrass should help the bermuda fill in without the competition. Depending on whether you want to spray to control ryegrass or not, ripping later in the summer won't be an issue as you could do it, get a rain, then apply Rezilon if you choose to, similar to what the farmer here did. There are several courses you can take, but i do think controlling the crabgrass should be up on the list of things to consider.


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## weedman

endrow said:


> If your stand is thin and you spray Rezilon and you stand does not make it and you need to reseed , must you wait 22 months to reseed


Endrow, for you northern folks that are in that orchargrass, timothy, fescue type pasture, Rezilon is not labeled for use...yet. I am doing a lot of work this year to see if we can come up with a treatment regime that works for weed control without too much injury on the grass. Rezilon can be pretty tough on cool-season pastures with rates above about 2.5 oz. I am hoping we can get it to work and give you another option other than Prowl.

To your question, I will assume you mean reseeding in your area and not bermudagrass, which is primarily propagated vegetatively? But yes, the 22 month restriction will hinder northern states using Rezilon. That 22 months came from work our crop folks had done. As such, the only real data that was submitted to the epa for plantback and tolerance were crop species. Because of the costs associated with this research, no further tolerance testing is planned, so we are stuck with what they already had done. So, I can't tell you what the plantback interval after Rezilon application for fescue may be, for example, because the work hasn't been done. Rezilon is very effective on controlling most cool-season grasses from seed, and I would think that trying to reseed a pasture that has been treated would have to wait at least 12-18 months before it may be possible. Filling in with a clover may be possible, but that work is planned for this year also.


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## Ranger518

weedman said:


> Ranger, last fall, one of the farmers I have been working with wanted to run the renovator over his field. I suggested he do that before spraying last fall to target ryegrass. So, he got his last cut, ran the renovator over the field, then sprayed his Rezilon about a week later after he had gotten a ran to settle the soil. He did include 10 oz of Roundup as it was late September and ryegrass had begun to germinate. That field is clean as it gets and I feel sure he accomplished his goal with the renovator.
> 
> I think in your situation I would spray in the next few weeks, see how the field looks later this summer, then decide if you want to run the renovator through there or not. At that point, you have gotten a couple of clean cuttings and the reduction in crabgrass should help the bermuda fill in without the competition. Depending on whether you want to spray to control ryegrass or not, ripping later in the summer won't be an issue as you could do it, get a rain, then apply Rezilon if you choose to, similar to what the farmer here did. There are several courses you can take, but i do think controlling the crabgrass should be up on the list of things to consider.


That's it pretty much my thinking that I need to control the crabgrass first and hope that will help thicken up my stand and cause Bermuda to spread but I was just worried that the relizon works so good it just would not allow the Bermuda to take root and continue to spread do to torpedo affect but I don't know.


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## somedevildawg

Ranger518 said:


> Yea we have talked about it before. It is not really in one area of the field so spot spraying not really possible it is thicker in some areas though. My soil test show everything is in the optimal level as with a 6.9ph and last year I really fed the fertilizer to it which really did not improve it i even doubled up the Fertilizer application on about 2 acer to see what happened and from the time I fertilized it to the time I cut it about 4 weeks you could not tell the difference.


I have no experience with the Midland variety....they used to make a good CB radio back In the day however . It is a hybrid variety right? We don't see any of it down here......that's really crazy that you couldn't tell a difference...every BG I've ever been around responded to N like a crack addict......have you tested for AL in the depths of the soil? Unless it's a really heavy infestation of CG, it seems doubtful that it's would be out competeing the BG enuf to cause stand deterioration. Didn't you post some pics?


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## Ranger518

somedevildawg said:


> I have no experience with the Midland variety....they used to make a good CB radio back In the day however . It is a hybrid variety right? We don't see any of it down here......that's really crazy that you couldn't tell a difference...every BG I've ever been around responded to N like a crack addict......have you tested for AL in the depths of the soil? Unless it's a really heavy infestation of CG, it seems doubtful that it's would be out competeing the BG enuf to cause stand deterioration. Didn't you post some pics?


Yes it is a hybrid yea i thought it was odd as well as in the past few years if I missed a spot or overlapped fertilizer you could tell for sure. I don't think I had and good photos but i did take a video last summer but this was before the crabgrass got real bad. The video link is below.


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## somedevildawg

I think there is something else going on there, not quite sure what.....if the stand was already deteriorating before the crabgrass infiltrated, I don’t think that I would spray additional Pre emergent until I got that figured out.....AL would be my first guess, what was planted in years before this was sprigged? BG can really send some roots deep, I would test deeper....it looks a little like compaction problems too, but that’s a tough one to think the whole field is like that, typically it will show where you bottleneck at gates etc.....


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## Ranger518

somedevildawg said:


> I think there is something else going on there, not quite sure what.....if the stand was already deteriorating before the crabgrass infiltrated, I don't think that I would spray additional Pre emergent until I got that figured out.....AL would be my first guess, what was planted in years before this was sprigged? BG can really send some roots deep, I would test deeper....it looks a little like compaction problems too, but that's a tough one to think the whole field is like that, typically it will show where you bottleneck at gates etc.....


Yes it was thinning out and then the crabgrass started taking over kinda my concern that if I don't spray a pre herbside that the crabgrass is just going to get worse but also if I spray it it will keep from spreading. What is the AL you talk about and what should it be? Here is my soil test from last year.


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## Ranger518

The more I think about it the more I am leaning towards compaction and this is why but it just a guess. This field has been precision leveled with about a 1” fall every 100’ draining into a ditch for flood irrigation which I don’t flood irrigate it I use a kifco water reel. The soil is really good sandy looney type but I found out that the land really does not perk so I am thinking that maybe when it rains being the land does not perk very well and had a slope built for flood irrigation that the water just runs off the field and maybe the reason it yielded so good the first and second year after being sprigged was do to having the ground disked up really well getting it prepared for Sprigging. Who know I may be totally wrong but either way I am going to run over it as soon as it stops raining with my pasture renovator I picked up last fall. Now I just got to figure out if I should spray pre emerge herbicide after that.


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## somedevildawg

Based on that report I wouldn’t say it was aluminum toxicity with a 6.9 ph, however, because the roots grow so deep, we often make the mistake of testing only the surface of the soil, to get a better indication, take a pair of post hole diggers and dig down 12-24” and then take some samples with probe just to rule that out, doesn’t cost a lot. But, given that report I think compaction could be a possibility. I did see some common in the field, is this hybrid a fine bladed grass? I only ask because my T44 seems to be more susceptible to compaction than my coastal, T85, Jiggs (all much coarser). Not sure if there is a correlation to be gleaned from that or not, probably so, I just ain’t smart enuf to glean it.....


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## Ranger518

somedevildawg said:


> Based on that report I wouldn't say it was aluminum toxicity with a 6.9 ph, however, because the roots grow so deep, we often make the mistake of testing only the surface of the soil, to get a better indication, take a pair of post hole diggers and dig down 12-24" and then take some samples with probe just to rule that out, doesn't cost a lot. But, given that report I think compaction could be a possibility. I did see some common in the field, is this hybrid a fine bladed grass? I only ask because my T44 seems to be more susceptible to compaction than my coastal, T85, Jiggs (all much coarser). Not sure if there is a correlation to be gleaned from that or not, probably so, I just ain't smart enuf to glean it.....


Ok so if I understand It right AL toxicity is caused by low ph? And I'm thinking that you are thinking that maybe my PH is going to be lower deeper in the soil which could be causing my issues?
When I soil test I use a soil test probe but it only goes about 12" down I was getting ready to pull my soil test for this year so I will dig down deeper with a post hole digger first before I probe for a sample but with COVID going around they super slow getting samples back right now so it may be a month or longer before I get them back. The last time it was limed was about 5 years ago and the past 5 years my PH has been 6.6-6.9 every year so I have not worried spreading anymore lime. Midland 99 to me is real close to what tifton44 looks like.


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## somedevildawg

Well, there ya go....maybe. Idk. You are correct, here BG roots can grow very deep. It’s a problem that the only remedy I know of is deep incorporation of lime to help leech out the AL. That’s a laborious, therefore expensive, remedy....but perhaps, maybe...disc the field with the pasture renovator (hay king?) with the coulters and shanks set as far down as they can, that ain’t real far, and incorporate lime.....I have no idea if that would help, but I would certainly think it was worth a shot, maybe more than once given the alternative  but, that’s jumping to serious conclusions that may not be warranted.....iirc your fertilization schedules were very similar to mine with the exception of Lime applications. Used any manure for NPK?


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## Ranger518

somedevildawg said:


> Well, there ya go....maybe. Idk. You are correct, here BG roots can grow very deep. It's a problem that the only remedy I know of is deep incorporation of lime to help leech out the AL. That's a laborious, therefore expensive, remedy....but perhaps, maybe...disc the field with the pasture renovator (hay king?) with the coulters and shanks set as far down as they can, that ain't real far, and incorporate lime.....I have no idea if that would help, but I would certainly think it was worth a shot, maybe more than once given the alternative  but, that's jumping to serious conclusions that may not be warranted.....iirc your fertilization schedules were very similar to mine with the exception of Lime applications. Used any manure for NPK?


No I have never used manure not any around here to get I use granular fertilizer mainly urea pot ash and dap. 
So what do you think of this plan as of now. Take some deep soil samples and as soon as it dries out run my pasture renovator over it as deep as I can and then spray it with rezilon just to try and hold back the crabgrass giving the Bermuda the best chance it can have to grow without competition. Then see what the soil test show and go from there. I'm definitely open to all suggestions and recommendation.


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## somedevildawg

Ranger518 said:


> No I have never used manure not any around here to get I use granular fertilizer mainly urea pot ash and dap.
> So what do you think of this plan as of now. Take some deep soil samples and as soon as it dries out run my pasture renovator over it as deep as I can and then spray it with rezilon just to try and hold back the crabgrass giving the Bermuda the best chance it can have to grow without competition. Then see what the soil test show and go from there. I'm definitely open to all suggestions and recommendation.


I mighta missed this...how old is the stand? I don't think using a renovator has ever hurt Bermuda grass, it's the closest we will ever get to aid in the migration of topical applications, so with regards to breaking the stolons and encouraging new growth...so I think there is merit to that, I try to run mine every spring a different direction than the previous year with the shanks set deep. My only concern, would be the resistance to the stolons nodes and setting root and developing rhizomes. I don't know anything about the mode of work that thes preemergents do to the soil to prevent such occurrence only that they are not recommended on new sprigged fields. One would have to assume to give it a fighting chance or perhaps just a equal start. 
In addition to your plan, I would also consider this....depending on if your plan can handle this...I would not plan on any cuts of the field past August 1 (for me) to try to allow for the rhizomes to develop in the soil....if they don't develop they will die and you'll be back next spring with only the original plant again.....another suggestion would be to increase cut height throughout the season and perhaps you could cut a bit later. I don't know where your cutting now but I've increased my height to about 4-5" in the past few years and it seems to be paying dividends.


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## Ranger518

This will be the 5th season I believe sense it was sprigged. From what I understand using rezilon will cause the Bermuda to have the torpedo affect which means the Bermuda will spread Across the field but it won’t let it root down kinda like how Bermuda can grow across a concrete sidewalks and before long you can’t tell there is concrete sidewalk there. So my thinking is if I do use the rezilon and do end up having the torpedo issue and find out what my other issue is this year maybe I can just skip the pre herbicide next year and hopefully I can control weeds and crabgrass with a post emerge witch I have never had much luck on the crabgrass though. Cutting higher later and not cutting late in the year should not be a issue and I can give that a try.


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## somedevildawg

That’s kinda my thinking (which may be completely off base) that anything that “binds” the soil would be a hinderance to the propagation. But I really think the combination of renovator, increase cut height and no late cuttings will get you filled back in.....maybe weedman can explain further the mode of action and how that translates into less/more/or about the same with regards to Stolon rooting activity. My guess is the former, not sure how it couldn’t be......but, MY immediate concern would be the overall health of my stand. Thanks to Rezilon we now have a weapon to fight crabgrass. So to answer your question honestly....unless convinced otherwise, I would skip the Pre-emergent chemicals for a year.....work the soil as much as you can, and deal with the crabgrass that you have, and I know how much of a PITA it is, but I would concentrate on the overall field health first. Some years crabgrass is not as much of a pain, some years it can really piss you off. But from what I saw.....that would be my recommendation. Hth


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## weedman

Yes, Rezilon does inhibit stolons pegging down. I think a farmer will have to weigh his weed population pressure vs not pegging. That said, I’ve sprayed many times on fields with bare spots or thinner stands, and they look more covered in year two versus the areas in the trial I did not treat. Weed pressure is a lot bigger hindrance to growth than folks often give credit to. I would have to see a situation before giving a hard recommendation though. Fields that are mostly covered I wouldn’t hesitate to spray.


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## Ranger518

I think I am going to just run the pasture renovator over the whole field and spray rezilon on the lower half which was a lot worse with crabgrass last year and see what results I get and go from there.


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## Ranger518

I got a chance yesterday to run my pasture renovator over the whole field as deep as it would go about 12” that took a while. And got the half of it sprayed with rezilon this morning and new we are getting rain as I am writhing this. Also got the deep soil test done so I will keep you updated on the results of that and what results I get with sprayed vs not sprayed section of field this year. Going to be interesting.


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## weedman

I would have suggested getting a rain on it to settle the soil before you hit it with Rezilon, but you have to get things done when you can. You are well ahead of crabgrass germination, and that's great. I'm still working to get some farmers to not think of it like Prowl, where they want to time is as close as possible to that germination window. Keep us posted on how it does.


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## Ranger518

weedman said:


> I would have suggested getting a rain on it to settle the soil before you hit it with Rezilon, but you have to get things done when you can. You are well ahead of crabgrass germination, and that's great. I'm still working to get some farmers to not think of it like Prowl, where they want to time is as close as possible to that germination window. Keep us posted on how it does.


Yea I thought about waiting to spray after a rain to give it a little time to settle but then I look at the weather and figured this would be my last chance to get it on for a while so I sprayed it with 3oz to the acer and figured I could spray it with another 3 this spring or early summer if I needed to. I will let you know what happens.


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## somedevildawg

You guys don’t have problems with IR (Italian ryegrass) in your fields do you? I believe the label says no more than 6oz per acre, per year?


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## Ranger518

somedevildawg said:


> You guys don't have problems with IR (Italian ryegrass) in your fields do you? I believe the label says no more than 6oz per acre, per year?


No luckily I don't have any issue with ryegrass. Yes the label says no more then 6oz per acre a year.


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## somedevildawg

Good for you, it’s a real pest for us during spring.....


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## nhbaler282

I am fixing to start spraying here real soon but I cant decide to put out 3 oz and after first cutting put out another 3 oz or put out 5 oz now and call it good til next year. I dont mind the ryegrass because I spray it with roundup amyway Weedman what is your advice on this?


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## weedman

If you don’t care about winter weeds, there has not been a lot of difference in 3 oz now with another three after the first cutting, and a single 5 oz now. The two weeds where it has shown to make a difference is with foxtail and sandbur. On those, the 3+3 has shown to provide better control. Just have to make sure they aren’t perennials.


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## nhbaler282

weedman said:


> If you don't care about winter weeds, there has not been a lot of difference in 3 oz now with another three after the first cutting, and a single 5 oz now. The two weeds where it has shown to make a difference is with foxtail and sandbur. On those, the 3+3 has shown to provide better control. Just have to make sure they aren't perennials.


Thanks Weedman,I believe I will go with the 3 and 3 one field does have some foxtail in it. I live over here in carthage


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## scout

I quickly scanned through both Rezilon threads and could have missed what I'm looking for. Any idea if Rezilon will control Dalisgrass?

Thanks


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## weedman

Rezilon won’t control existing plants. However, I believe it will control it from seed. That is being evaluated this year and should know more this fall.


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## nhbaler282

Weed man what do you think about the cold weather and wet conditions I don’t think it will work where there is water standing and I think this cold and snow should delay any germination what is your thoughts I’m still going to put it out if it is the last of March


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## weedman

nhbaler282 said:


> Weed man what do you think about the cold weather and wet conditions I don't think it will work where there is water standing and I think this cold and snow should delay any germination what is your thoughts I'm still going to put it out if it is the last of March


I still recommend getting it out ASAP. It will last, just get it on down. Time and again we have seen early applications performing better. This has been the hardest part for me...getting folks to trust going down early. Those that have used Prowl have been conditioned to try to time it as well as they can to make it "work". Trust me, spray now.

As to the delayed germination, all the cold won't make any difference after a few days of warm weather. That soil surface will heat up enough for germination to start, especially in bare spots.


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## broadriverhay

@ weedman. It has been raining here for weeks. We are getting a few day break and then more rain to come this weekend. anything shy of a pontoon boat or airplane won't get it done here. Trust me , I will get it down as soon as possible. If it stops raining early next week it will be mid March before I will get it down.


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## nhbaler282

Thanks weed man I will and tell the other people here to do what you say


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## weedman

broadriverhay said:


> @ weedman. It has been raining here for weeks. We are getting a few day break and then more rain to come this weekend. anything shy of a pontoon boat or airplane won't get it done here. Trust me , I will get it down as soon as possible. If it stops raining early next week it will be mid March before I will get it down.


I hear you. We can't beat Mother Nature. You may just have to include a post product, but that has drawbacks. We need a POST product for grasses that doesn't bang up the bermuda.


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## broadriverhay

@WEEDMAN . My real issue is Italian Ryegrass and right now it is nonexistent . I do have a few warm season grasses to deal with but nothing of major concern. Signal grass is an issue in the wetter spots but I can deal with that as I have for quite a while. If the Rezilon from the Fall application helps any this Spring I will be in good shape. I will just have to wait on things to dry out to get this next application down. Thanks for all your advice about Rezilon. I will keep you updated on how my field looks this season.


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## nhbaler282

Got the Rezilon out today done about 50 acres put a quart of roundup with it and will put out another 3oz after the first cutting this is on tifton 44 I’m sure it will work mostly to control crab grass


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## broadriverhay

Got my Rezilon sprayed today !!!


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## broadriverhay

@Weedman. I sprayed Rezilon and glyphosate on Sunday. I got a little rain Sunday night and another rain on Tuesday night. Both totaling about 1/4”. Is that enough to be able to burn the field off or do I need to wait on more rain. There is only about 3” tall dormant Bermuda grass in the field and no thatch to speak of.


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## weedman

I just want to be clear, but each rain was 1/4", for a total of 1/2", or both of them together are 1/4"? If you got a total of 1/2", burning should not be an issue, but if only 1/4" from the two separate rains, it probably wasn't enough at one time for me to feel good about it. I would hate to burn off $26/A.

On a side note, I've got crabgrass coming up here in AL now. Scary that March 15 or so was the PRE timing we shot for (during my turf and lawn care days) in the past.


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## broadriverhay

Total was 1/4" of rain. Bermuda is starting to have a few green spouts show up. It is supposed to be some freezing temperatures here this weekend. I figured the 1/4" was not enough to get it in the ground but was hoping that would have been enough to get it off the old vegetation. It has rained here for months and now none in site. Poor Farmer can't win.


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## Ranger518

Well so far the area of the field I sprayed rezilon on has no crab grass growing but the area I did not spray does i also sprayed another field with some leftover prowell h20 that i had from last year and I also already have some crabgrass germination. Question is should I go head and try and kill the crab grass that has already germinate and if so with what pastora or will pastora work In cooler spring temps?


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## broadriverhay

Weedman , finally got some rain coming 2 1/2 weeks after spraying Rezilon. Hopefully it will be dry enough this coming weekend to burn. The field is spotless , no IR thanks to Bayer Science and Rezilon!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


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## weedman

Ranger, Pastora is probably your best bet. It will set the bermuda back a tad, but with the warm temps and moisture, it should bounce back quickly. Best to get the crabgrass when 1-2 leaf when possible. 1 oz/A should get it at this point.

BroadRiver, glad to hear the good results!


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## Ranger518

weedman said:


> Ranger, Pastora is probably your best bet. It will set the bermuda back a tad, but with the warm temps and moisture, it should bounce back quickly. Best to get the crabgrass when 1-2 leaf when possible. 1 oz/A should get it at this point.
> 
> BroadRiver, glad to hear the good results!


Ok Thanks I think I will give it a shot with the pastora and see what happened.


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## broadriverhay

Got my field burned today. Conditions were nearly perfect. Maybe a little too much wind but all went good. Burned 34 acres in 10-15 minutes.


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## Bonfire

is there some place in the label that discusses sprayer clean up? I couldn't find it. Maybe I missed it.


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## broadriverhay

@Bonfire ,I don't see it either . I'm sure weedman can give some info in this area.


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## broadriverhay

Burn results from the other end of the field.


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## weedman

broadriverhay said:


> Burn results from the other end of the field.


Nice results!


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## Ranger518

Well I got my results back from the deep soil samples I pulled And they are pretty Interesting. The last few years every sample have been in the optimal level and last year I put out about 1,200 lb of 22-11-22 to the acer over 3 applications which is what I have been using the last few years based on my soil test but I have only been pulling soil samples around the 8” depth this year I pulled them from a deeper depth and this is what I got.


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## Ranger518

somedevildawg said:


> I think there is something else going on there, not quite sure what.....if the stand was already deteriorating before the crabgrass infiltrated, I don't think that I would spray additional Pre emergent until I got that figured out.....AL would be my first guess, what was planted in years before this was sprigged? BG can really send some roots deep, I would test deeper....it looks a little like compaction problems too, but that's a tough one to think the whole field is like that, typically it will show where you bottleneck at gates etc.....


Here is last years soil test vs this year don't know how it could get so bad In a year with as much fertilizer as I put on but I did take samples deeper than last year. I did talk to place that did the test and they want to test it again as they also think somthing is not right even that I tested it at a deeper depth.


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