# new holland 275 baler



## johnbeeman1 (Jul 10, 2011)

Can anyone give some advise on how to time a new holland 275 baler?


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## mlappin (Jun 25, 2009)

If I was there I could just do it without thinking about it, but it has been so long since I messed with a small square baler I'd better not. Better to wait for someone who is sure than me giving you the wrong info. It's not horribly difficult though.


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## mike10 (May 29, 2011)

Trip the knotters. Turn the flywheel in the direction the tractor turns it. When the tips of the needles are flush with the top side of the bottom of the chamber, just entering the chamber, the tips of the plunger should be past the tips of the needles 1/4 to 3/4". In reality the tips will probably be 1 to 1 1/2" past. Better to be a little late with the needle penetration then early. If you need to change the timing then jump the chain on the sprocket attached to the knotter shaft. There is a way to get the 1/4 to 3/4" but it is generally not necessary to go to the additional work.


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## RockmartGA (Jun 29, 2011)

I've got a NH 276 and have listed the steps below. Hopefully, these steps also apply to your 275 and you find them useful.

1. Rotate the flywheel until the plunger arm is in the straight up and down (12:00 o'clock) position. There should be two marks on the frame next to the plunger arm. The plunger arm should be between these two marks.

2. Next, go around back to the tine sweep arm area. The bolt/linkage that connects the tines to the chain should be in the 6:00 o'clock position with regards to the pulley. There are marks on the frame next to this as well. The bolt/linkage should be between these two marks.

3. Finally, on the knotter flywheel assembly, there are three dots. They are to the rear of the flywheel at about the 3:00 o'clock position. They should line up within 1/4 inch of each other.

All three of the above must be in the positions indicated for your baler to be in time. If not, you've got to remove chains and rotate to get it back in time.

After you time it, always turn it through a few cycles by hand to make sure everything lines up and nothing hits.

I'm writing this from memory, so if you use these instructions, please, please, please check and recheck before you turn on that pto.


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## mlappin (Jun 25, 2009)

Rocksmarts way sounds very very familiar to me and what we used on our 276.


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## mike10 (May 29, 2011)

RockmartGA's way of timing is perfectly acceptable 99% of the time. I prefer to adjust the timing by the needle and plunger method which works 100% of the time. I have seen the timing marks not punched in the right position on the clutch hub and sprocket hub. One in particular was almost 2" off. Also. if either the clutch hub or sprocket hub were replaced there will be no timing marks on the new part. In your case timing the baler for the first time I would used the needle to plunger method to set the timing and then recheck the timing using the timing marks. If the timing marks align then you can use them in the future when you check the timing.

On the 275 baler you do not time the feeder carriage so you can skip that part of the instructions provided by RockmartGA. The only timing is for the needles.


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## sedurbin (May 30, 2009)

> On the 275 baler you do not time the feeder carriage so you can skip that part of the instructions provided by RockmartGA. The only timing is for the needles.


This is true that the feeder does not get timed on these balers, as it is directly driven from the plunger, however there is also timing for the knotters. Do yourself a favor and spend the $25 for a manual. Link--> Choose Items


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## mike10 (May 29, 2011)

sedurbin said:


> This is true that the feeder does not get timed on these balers, as it is directly driven from the plunger, however there is also timing for the knotters. Link--> Choose Items


To avoid some confusion as to what is timed here is an explaination. Many people refer to timing the knotters because the timing marks are on the hubs on the left end of the knotter shaft. When you time the knotters you are actually timing the needles to the plunger. The timing is soley for the protection of the needles.

There are other adjustments that can be made to the knotter stacks which some people refer to timing but do not actually time anything. I, myself, refer to the problem of knotter pinion gears jumping teeth on the cam gears as jumping time.

For general purposes, on NH small offset square balers, timing refers to the plunger to feeder fork relation, which should be done first, feeder fork to feeder fork on 570 and 575 balers and their new model numbers, and plunger to needle relation. On the 268, 269, 273, 275, and 310 balers you do not time the plunger to feeder fork relation.


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