# Cleaning up new fields



## Canderson012 (Jan 17, 2012)

I am kind of new to hay baling, I was wondering if you guys had any tips on what to do when I aqquire a new hay field. Most are fairly clean and partially weed free. But should I cut it in early spring to prevent weed growth or should I spray a herbicide. Any help or tips will be appreciated.


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## Mike120 (May 4, 2009)

If it's pretty weedy I'll spray and then roll it up for cow/goat hay. If it's not too bad, I'll usually still spray with Grazon P+D and then square bale it. I feed most of mine and have gotten less picky during this drought.


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## mulberrygrovefamilyfarm (Feb 11, 2009)

Might suggest that you take some soil samples to see what's going on with the soil too. Grid if you can, but if not just do some block averages. For me I've noticed that the weeds are in response to deficiencies in the soil, or pH being out of optimum range for my type of forage. Like the old timers who limed based on the types of weeds they saw in the fields, I've found that when I see weeds start to come on in a hay field before the stand _"should be"_ worn out, I can usually pull tissue and soil samples to confirm that I've got a soil issue(s) that is creating a weak stand. Then, depending on the issue I can amend the soil/stand, or for those issues that require amendment incorporation, I either have to live with it and spray out the weeds in the weak stand, or accelerate the scheduled renovation of the stand.


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## Texasmark (Dec 20, 2011)

Mike120 said:


> If it's pretty weedy I'll spray and then roll it up for cow/goat hay. If it's not too bad, I'll usually still spray with Grazon P+D and then square bale it. I feed most of mine and have gotten less picky during this drought.


The P part of the P+D is a brush controller and here in Texas is a regulated herbicide. If you don't have brush in your pasture you don't need the P part. On the other hand, the D part is 2-4-D which is a broadleaf weed killer and around here constitute the majority of nuisance weeds.

2-4-D can be bought in quart containers without a state applicators permit at about $7 a quart at Attwoods; Tractor supply has priced themselves out of the market at about $10 a quart....as far as I am concerned. I used to have one (an applicators permit) but when the state went to $100 per annual license fee I said Pffffffffffffffffft. The 2 1/2 gallon container is restricted, the quart is not. I use a 1% solution with a herbicide running about 45% pure.

Weeds will be with you forever unless you concrete your pasture!!!!!! I have a problem with herbicides as you have to have everything right to get it where you want it, don't miss any spots, and keep it to yourself.....no drift on neighbors....a real pain for me.

I would love to sprig bermuda for pasture and my recently resurrected haying operation, but no way with the weed problem. So, I plant annuals, buy the seed every year...which probably isn't any more of an expense that herbicide would be and plant in April/May and hold back on the fertilizer till the patch has germinated.

If you have a good seed bed with a good covering of seeds, the desired plants will limit the growth of the weeds till you get your crop off....then disc the heck out of the field to remove the stubble which just sucks the water out of your soil, and removes that season's weeds....unless you keep it for grazing and your cows are acclimated, as mine are, to eating weeds with their grass.

That works for me...been at it 30+ years.

Mark


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## Blue Duck (Jun 4, 2009)

texasmark said:


> then disc the heck out of the field to remove the stubble which just sucks the water out of your soil


huh ??????????


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## rjmoses (Apr 4, 2010)

Before going any further, what kind of "hay" is it? Grass hay or alfalfa? Makes a difference as to what type of herbicide you would apply.

Ralph


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## Canderson012 (Jan 17, 2012)

Thanks for all these answers with herbicide and what not, helps out a lot! But the grass I'm working with in my state is bermuda bahia mix normally.


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## Mike120 (May 4, 2009)

I still say spray and bale it, but I completely agree with Chris on the soil samples and fertilizer. I'd still stick with the Grazon P+D as it won't bother the Bahia. It seems to have better residual than the new version. Don't use any Metsulfuron-based as it will kill the Bahia.


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## Texasmark (Dec 20, 2011)

Blue Duck said:


> huh ??????????


It's a recorded fact, not my words. Check you local ag college or county agent.

Mark


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## hay wilson in TX (Jan 28, 2009)

There are any number of good herbicides to use for Southern grass pastures and hay meadows. 
Your County Agent can put on to some good links that will list all the approved herbicides for your situation.

If nothing else give your ground two qts. of Round Up. 
Bahiagrass and bermudagrasses take a whole lot of Roundup to kill them off, while the weeds check out quicker.

When you consider it both bahiagrass and bermudagrass are weeds for the row crop grower as well as the alfalfa grower.

As a matter of fact P plus D is a very popular weed killer for bermudagrass hay meadows. 
Do not take the random rants from others look at the labels for the various herbicides. It has a good residual action.


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## Canderson012 (Jan 17, 2012)

Well guys, I took my soil in for samples today I should know something in a few days. Round-up seems a lot cheaper than Grazon so I can get away with spraying that while the grass is dormant to kill the weeds. But now I get to suffer from high priced Lime haha.


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