# Going to look at a 1010 New holland bale wagon. Ideas?



## Will 400m (Aug 1, 2011)

Ok I know a 1010 is a smaller wagon and does not have push off feet but for what I'm doing and the price I can make it work well for me. So Im driving 6 hours each way with a trailer to look at and if its not to bad get the thing. But before I throw down money I would insist on seeing the thing pick at least 2 tables worth of bales. Anything I should look out for? They clam the pto shaft has a bearing thats going and a line that has a leak. All things I can fix but no one I know of out in my area has ever had on so Its all greek to me. Any ideas of what to look for please let me know. Thanks


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## Josh in WNY (Sep 7, 2010)

Having owned a 1010 before I traded it in for my current 1033, I can offer some advice. As with all wagons, check for cracks/welds in the frame, especially around where the bale loader is mounted. A leaking oil line shouldn't be too hard to fix, but keep in mind that most of the lines on these units are steel. I lucked out when I had to replace a couple lines on my 1010 since I work at an aerospace company and had the hydraulic maintenance guys make me a couple of new lines with scraps from the test stand repairs that they had done (only cost me some pizza and a couple bottles of Pepsi). You could replace the steel with flexible hydraulic hose, but I would recommend the steel if you can get it since it will last longer.

The 1010s have a hydraulic ram which controls the rolling rack which is used to push the load back onto the 2nd table when single bale unloading, so be sure to check that along with all of the other hydraulics. The other thing to check is the bearing or rollers on the rolling rack to make sure that they are free. The PTO shaft bearings are not that hard to get to, so they shouldn't be a big problem to replace.

If you are going to use the single bale unload feature, they you will need the stand that supports the 2nd table. This was missing on my 1010 but I did find a guy online who sent me the dimensions to make one. The other piece that you may want would be the turn chute which mounts on the side to flip the bales onto their strings when they run up the elevator. This piece isn't needed, but may come in handy.

The 1010 is a smaller wagon, but can still pick a lot of hay off the ground and would be good for a smaller hay operation. As I always recommend, get an owners manual for it as just about everything you need to know is in the manual (operating it, servicing it and adjusting/repairing it). I think I sent my manual with my 1010 when I traded it in, but I will check when I get home from work.


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## Norseman (Jun 6, 2010)

I have also been considering a bale wagon with single bale unload for my small operation. I was told by an old timer that having a cab on your tractor is a serious liability when trying to operate one of these. If that is true, is there any way to make it easier to use with a cab? The rear window and frame can be removed from mine, so I'm hoping that will make it workable.


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## Josh in WNY (Sep 7, 2010)

The reason cabs can be a pain is that the levers that control the bale wagon are run by turning around in the seat and reaching back. NH does have a "cab controls" kit for some models that moves all of the controls into the tractor cab. You can add these on, but they are pricey.

The 1010 model that Will is talking about above doesn't really need any controls to be run while picking up bales. The newer models that have a hydraulic motor running the pickup chain on the bale chute have a lever that is mounted separately and could be put in the cab. The only other lever that is typically used when pickup bales up is the "auto-tie" which is used to arrange a layer of bales in a different orientation to help hold the stack together (the 1010 doesn't have this feature).

The only time you are really using the other levers is when off-loading, either by setting off the stack or by single bale unloading. There is also a separate control lever on the side of the wagons that is used to control the single bale unload and NH recommends using that one since you are better able to see what is going on during the unloading process.


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## Will 400m (Aug 1, 2011)

Josh thanks a ton for getting back to me so fast. I hope its a good one I plan to look sunday so I will know then. So do these have there own on bord hydrolics? Best I can see they look like they do but not to sure. And any chance you have the plans for holder for the second table? I figure with the age of the machine even if its still there its probable bent or patched up a few times and that can get scary over time lol. Thanks again.


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## Josh in WNY (Sep 7, 2010)

Will, I don't think I have the plans any more. I couldn't find them on the computer and the email that contained them is long gone. I did find a webpage that has some pictures of one that you could use for an idea of how to make one. What the pictures don't show is that there are two sets of pegs (one peg for each leg of the stand) that the stand sets on. One set of pegs is for storing the stand and the other set is for when you are holding up the 2nd table.

http://imageevent.com/rubrandt/newhollandbalewagons

The wagons were designed with their own hydraulic system that has it's own pump (run off the PTO of the tractor), filter, tank, etc. I have seen some wagons where the pump went bad and the owner converted it over to run off the tractor hydraulics, but I would rather just overhaul/rebuild the pump myself. It might cost a little more, but it's a lot easier to deal with in my opinion.

By the way, how much hay are you looking to do? These smaller wagons are fine for a small operation, but you may want to upgrade to a bigger model someday. That's something to keep in mind if you start setting up your barns for a bale wagon. The model 1034 is a newer, bigger unit that will also single bale unload and I think the model 1038 would as well.


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## Will 400m (Aug 1, 2011)

This was mostly for a few smaller fields that go directly into a barn for the lady that owns the hay lot and keeps the hay. Just to make it so I can unload myself into the barn witch is a two story and the loft is on the top or dump it into blocks and have my guys load the loft from the stacks. And if it works I rent a long barn that is like a quanset hut style that is big enough in the middle to dump a stack but you would have to hand stack on the sides. But I could get the stacks in the barn fast and let the guys stack when they have time or at night when its cooler. The most I would do at one shot would be 20 acres or so. And we pull the wagon behind the baler now and hand stack onto it now so any savings would be great. Any chance you would be willing to take a donation and a ride and look the thing over with me sunday?


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## Josh in WNY (Sep 7, 2010)

Will 400m said:


> This was mostly for a few smaller fields that go directly into a barn for the lady that owns the hay lot and keeps the hay. Just to make it so I can unload myself into the barn witch is a two story and the loft is on the top or dump it into blocks and have my guys load the loft from the stacks. And if it works I rent a long barn that is like a quanset hut style that is big enough in the middle to dump a stack but you would have to hand stack on the sides. But I could get the stacks in the barn fast and let the guys stack when they have time or at night when its cooler. The most I would do at one shot would be 20 acres or so. And we pull the wagon behind the baler now and hand stack onto it now so any savings would be great. Any chance you would be willing to take a donation and a ride and look the thing over with me sunday?


Sounds like this wagon would be good for what you are doing, but 20 acres at a pop might be pushing it. The other thing to keep in mind is learning to run a bale wagon will teach you how to set up a baler! My dad and I thought we had good bales until we started running our bale wagon. These wagons like firm and (very) consistent bales! If the bales are loose, they will fall apart when picked up or the stacks will fall over. If there is a lot of variation in length, then they won't move through the wagon very well. The clearance required for setting a stack off inside with the 1010 is 13.5 to 15 feet, depending on who you talk to. I never unloaded mine inside, so I don't know for sure.

I would love the road trip, but I'm also on the other end of NY state from you (I live about 50 miles south of Buffalo). Where is the machine located? You said you're driving 6 hours to check this wagon out and if it's in my direction, I might be able to meet you there. Feel free to send me a private message on here.


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## Will 400m (Aug 1, 2011)

Thanks I know they were around that and have plenty of room in the center. And all the guyes in my area that see me making hay and stop over to chat all tell me to make em lighter aint no one want a brick like that lol so that baler might not be comercial but she works her ass off and makes a consistant 36 inch bale. And the wagons in Friendship ny about an hour and a half I would guess from you. Id be more than happy to throw you a few bucks to take the ride.


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## Josh in WNY (Sep 7, 2010)

Will, I PM'd you with my contact info. One other thing occurred to me, if you are going to trailer this thing home, be prepared to disassemble the sides and arch so that you aren't to high. It still may be a little over 8 feet wide with the bale loader raised up, but not by much.


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## Will 400m (Aug 1, 2011)

Thats the plan move it with the trailer I'm going to bring if its not a total basket case. What do you figure you would need to take it apart? And the twenty acres is a worse case scenario. Most of my hay is sold right out of the field behind the baler on the ground but I landed a 1500 and a 3000 a year account and have the one set of fields that go into the lady's barn that this would save me a ton in labor costs.


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## lfc (Jun 23, 2010)

Will,

I run three NH balewagons (only two work right now) not too far from you in Preston. You are more than welcome to stop by and I'll give you the nickel tour on running them. I wouldn't be without them! Let me know if you are interested - should be baling Saturday.


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## Will 400m (Aug 1, 2011)

Wow i didnt know any one in the area had any thats cool. Yeah let me see how this one looks and I would love to come down and take a lesson or two on running them. Hopefuly we arnt baling at the same time lol


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## lfc (Jun 23, 2010)

I joke that I likely am the NH balewagon king of CT with three of them! I use an old 1047 SP mainly, but also have a 1033 and recently bought a SP Super 1049 that I'm going to fix up. There was quite a learning curve the first year or so, but this will be my fifth season using them and I pretty much have it down now. Come on down whenever you want and I'll put you to work with one of them!

I trailered the 1033 from PA and the Super 1049 from NY with no issues. Well, the 1049 was a bit of a challenge but that's another story. Mine were overwidth, but as long as you are a farmer bringing the equipment home you should be ok in NY and CT. I took the sideboards off, but mine are both 3-wide machines. With the 2-wide 1010 you might be better off but I'd still take them off. They just told me to avoid the Newburgh bridge at rush hour, and stay off the Mass Pike if it is overwidth.

To be honest, if you are baling that many bales and need the single bale unload I think I'd want a 1034 or 1038. My 1047 holds 118 bales, and with good fields I can turn around a load every 20 minutes. With 50 or so bales on the 1010, you are going to be making a lot of trips and the lack of push-off feet is going to be a challenge if you want them to stay in a stack in the barn. Still beats hand-stacking them on a flat wagon though!


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## Will 400m (Aug 1, 2011)

Yeah anything beats hand stacking when its 92 and high humidity like what saturdays baling is going to be lol. As of right now im only planing to drop them in the barn to get hand stacked later. The barns an arch so a wagon wont work across the whole thing but I made a deal to cut a 12 acre field and i put his half in the back of his barn maybe 1000 bales a year and I get use of his whole 400 by 50 barn for the year. DEAL! And the single unload would only be if I cant get 2 or 3 guys to stack it in the barn. If it works and I get a barn built I would look at a sp and direct stack in the barn. But untill then this is way better lol


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## lfc (Jun 23, 2010)

I hear you! Rough past few days out there. On days like today, you'll really be smiling when you are pulling the balewagon through the fields.


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## clowers (Feb 11, 2011)

I have a 1033 I will sell for 5000.00
I'm in East Texas


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## slowzuki (Mar 8, 2011)

To be honest an ez-trail basket or two would be a simpler bet than a bale wagon. I've tried it so many ways and I can't make a small bale wagon work for me. We have one basket that we tried last year. Its great as the tractor driver. I would just swing by the conveyor every 100 bales and dump my basket and head back out.


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## Hayguy (Jun 4, 2008)

If only that thing would stackem in the barn, it would be the perfect system.


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## slowzuki (Mar 8, 2011)

Without pushoff feet you're doing roughly the same thing and you will be stacking the sides already.



Hayguy said:


> If only that thing would stackem in the barn, it would be the perfect system.


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