# Round up effects



## Colby (Mar 5, 2012)

Every year we plow up ground to plant oats to graze through out winter and into spring. This year our grass is so tall our tandem disk would never even get to the dirt. I'm thinking about shredding it and then burning it down with round up to make it easier to disk. It's all Bahia grass so I'm not worried about hurting the warm season grass stand. Just worried if this will effect my oats stand? 
Thanks


----------



## FarmerCline (Oct 12, 2011)

Shouldn't hurt a thing......roundup has no residual in the soil so you could actually spray the same day you plant. Even if I'm working the ground to plant if there are weeds present I will spray roundup a week or two ahead of time so the weeds are dead before planting.


----------



## Coondle (Aug 28, 2013)

I use glyphosate ( Roundup's active ingredient) and or paraquat as knockdown preparing for oat planting. Both chemicals are non-residual according to the respective manufacturers

I will use glyphosate to kill weeds that germinate after the first spraying and after planting by minimum till, but hopefully before the oats germinate.

On occasion I have slightly mistimed and sprayed glysophate up to one day after some oats has germinated. The glysophate browns off the little first leaf of the germinated oat plants but the plant survives on the food store held in the seed.Those plants have a setback but recover.


----------



## Colby (Mar 5, 2012)

What are yall mixing it per acre as?


----------



## JMT (Aug 10, 2013)

Glyphosate (roundup) needs to be absorbed through the leaves to work right? Shredding then spraying would be a waste of roundup. Spraying/burning it down then shredding so your disc can make contact might work.

Why not cut it and bale it off?


----------



## Colby (Mar 5, 2012)

JMT said:


> Glyphosate (roundup) needs to be absorbed through the leaves to work right? Shredding then spraying would be a waste of roundup. Spraying/burning it down then shredding so your disc can make contact might work.
> 
> Why not cut it and bale it off?


It's rough as hell from cattle slopping around in it in the mud durning the spring and I have made more hay than I need and I'm tired of making hay and zero outlet


----------



## FarmerCline (Oct 12, 2011)

Colby said:


> What are yall mixing it per acre as?


 Typically if trying to kill perennial grasses or weeds I use 2 quarts an acre. For easily killed annuals I have used 1 quart and real tough weeds 3 quarts.


----------



## FarmerCline (Oct 12, 2011)

JMT said:


> Glyphosate (roundup) needs to be absorbed through the leaves to work right? Shredding then spraying would be a waste of roundup. Spraying/burning it down then shredding so your disc can make contact might work.
> Why not cut it and bale it off?


 Yes, roundup does best when it can be absorbed through the leaves.....depending on the growth stage of the weeds it could be best to spray first and let it die before shredding or shred and let it get some fresh new growth then spray. Spraying immediately after shredding probably wouldn't give the best kill.


----------



## Coondle (Aug 28, 2013)

It is material with chlorophyll present that absorbs glysophate i.e. includes green leaves and green coloured woody stems of dicotyledons (Woody plants) and through green leaves of monocotyledons (grass type plants).

Glyphosate acts best on actively growing plants. It has limited if any effect on dormant plants, and reduced effect on stressed plants (cold, water logged, or drought).

Application rate depends on the target plant/s, stage of growth, size, concentration of the active ingredient, other herbicides used in the mix and whether loaded or not.

For example my common grasses early in the growing season can be taken out with 750 mls of 450 strength per hectare if fully loaded, i.e. surfacing added. That is about 3/4 a quart to 2.47 acres. 450 strength means 450 grams per litre of active ingredient, first marketed as "CT" or supposedly concentrated. 450 is without surfactant, whereas our 360 had it on already.

Bump the rate up to 1 litre (about 1 quart) per hectare without surfactant and I can take out a wide range of weeds and lenot touch clover, if droplet size is large enough. The droplets held together by surface tension, sit on the fine hairs of the clover leaf, they dry up and do not contact the green part of the leaf. Nice way to remove unwanted competition from clover paddocks. Put surfactant in and the surface tension of the droplets is lowered and the water is not held by the hairs and contacts the green leaf material.

Plants with waxy laves need surfactant to prevent runoff of the spray, so there is time for the active ingredient to be absorbed.

Glysophate is not a pre-emergent spray so no effect on your oats if sprayed before the oats germinate.

Glysophate takes up to a week depending on many factors to result in desiccation of plant material.

Using paraquat 165 + diquat 135 (US descriptors could be different because this is metric) marketed by Sygenta here as "sprayed" can be used as a rapid knockdown for faster desiccation to allow burning by fire, but has restricted success with advanced plants.

If the amount of plant material is considerable, will your discs be able to penetrate.

With heavy stands of advanced grass, I have mowed the grass, baled and removed the bales. Not with a view of making hay but to remove the excess vegetative material. Threw the bales in an eroded area, removed the twine and let the sheep make what they could of the material.

The mow/bale/remove option will be faster, less poison, and ensure discs can do their job, and I seem to recall you have some pretty good gear to get the job done fast.


----------



## Colby (Mar 5, 2012)

I'm going to spray it this weekend. 45 days should burn it down pretty good


----------

