# How often to apply fertilizer?



## rjbaustian (Oct 16, 2012)

Have. 70/30 alfalfa/orchard grass mix on soil that's mostly sand. Today my father in law was telling me he heard that you should fertilize sand ground after every cutting. I've been told to fertilize either right after 1st cutting, or in the fall. Thoughts?


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## endrow (Dec 15, 2011)

Right after the 1st is a good time for the alfalfa to get potash and boron , But the O/G needs nitrogen each cutting . Does it get n from the alfalfa? I would think so but a little urea to jump start the grass will improve the quality of the mix .


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## hay wilson in TX (Jan 28, 2009)

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I am assuming you are not expecting the alfalfa to supply all the nitrogen to the grass.

It is difficult to apply N to the grass and not have the alfalfa use more than their fair share.

I would guess for your location you should plan to fertilize at the start of the season and after each cutting. Say 80 lbs N/A. P, K, Lime, &c as the crop demands.

Then* use your hay sample from each cutting & from each field dictate your fertility program.*

As a guide, Oklahoma advocates applying all the phosphate prior to planting and apply as much as you expect to need over a 6 year life of the stand.

One study says not to apply a lot of phosphate with out including enough potassium.

HERE, At one time I applied 1,200 lbs/A of Nitrogen and the positive effect of that nitrogen lasted thru 7 seasons.

In East Texas Sandy soils Nitrogen is said to persist for 6 weeks. In practice the nitrogen starts to show a deficiency at the end of 3 weeks,

*Your state probably has a Forage Specialist who probably understands YOUR soils and can give a reasonable answer. Check with your County Agent if your state still supports extension*


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## Hugh (Sep 23, 2013)

N leaches very easily from sandy soils, and with 2-3" of rain or irrigation it may be past the roots. There is info out there that will give you a general idea of how much NPK and other elements are taken from the soil with each ton of hay you bail and remove from your property. Phosphate generally stays put and does not travel. If you irrigate you might look into an injection system where you inject a little urea with each watering. Another possibility is very slow release N, such as "Blue Chip" urea. This N can release over a period of 3 years.


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## rjbaustian (Oct 16, 2012)

Thanks for the help guys


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## rjbaustian (Oct 16, 2012)

Every single thing I have read in the past 24 hours says to NOT apply N to established alfalfa. This is from about 10 different state extension offices. Just an FYI


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## endrow (Dec 15, 2011)

rjbaustian said:


> Every single thing I have read in the past 24 hours says to NOT apply N to established alfalfa. This is from about 10 different state extension offices. Just an FYI


Does it say why. I know it produces it own N . Some of these posts are about mix hay so the N is for the grass . Also 20# N as urea on strait alfalfa will boost the protein .


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## rjbaustian (Oct 16, 2012)

No, it doesn't. But it does say to not apply N to any stand that's more than 50% alfalfa. I'd like to know as well.


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## hay wilson in TX (Jan 28, 2009)

The big boys and the Educated Advisors say alfalfa will not supply the needed Nitrogen to a companion grass, not for hay. For grazing yes but not for hay.

If we supply the nitrogen for the grass portion the alfalfa will be aggressive enough to hog a good portion of the N fertilizers.

They also suggest that if we fertilize for alfalfa the grass portion will suffer and fade away. HERE most of our grass weeds we get in an alfalfa stand will soon ruin our chance for selling alfalfa hay. There is no market HERE for a grass/alfalfa mix.

If you have a grass weed in your alfalfa stand, AND you have a market for a mixed hay treat the field like alfalfa. Otherwise use one of the grass killing herbicides labeled for alfalfa.


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