# Cool Season Grass Hay Fertilization Schedule



## Hayman1 (Jul 6, 2013)

For those of you who regularly topdress cool season grass hay (og, tim, and fescue), a couple of questions.

Did topdressing this year for first time. Dad still thinks a bad idea because the hay is less quality because spurred by N and grew too fast-I have probably been living under that assumption for all of my 65 years. Anyway, he is in a nursing home and not here to see it so-

I routinely do soil tests in Oct, put on p and k per test in March and 60# N. Lodges with more N. Last fall, took test early on 2 fields and did p and k in fall with 50# N, then did 60-0-0-24S in March, 50# N after first cutting and after 2 cutting. grass is not 8-12 " high after second cutting. So for those of you who top dress, do you always put your p and k on in the fall and if so, do you put 50-60# N on then? or just p and k and come back in the spring with your N?

We are on limestone derived soils, most well drained. I have grass fields that were topdressed 1x, 2x, and late cut, 1x and all sorts of mixes of the grasses. One thing for sure, topdressing on tim was a waste. Thanks.


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## Bob M (Feb 11, 2012)

I will usually put 30 to 40 units of N on after each cutting with my grass hays,with exception of Timothy. Timothy I will top dress in late August or early September depending on moisture. Sometimes I will put P on in the fall , more likely spring if needed. Fields with manure history don't usually need P. A lot of times I will put small amounts of K on each time I top dress with N, depending on soil test and yield.


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## Rodney R (Jun 11, 2008)

We put P & K out after 1st cutting, but N gets applied in spring - about 23 gpa of 30% in spring, timothy and OG the same. Very rarely do we apply N a second time, as the 2nd cut is very iffy. I think it would be a waste to put N on after the last cutting of the year - you're trying the make growth that you won't be able to harvest?

Rodney


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## Vol (Jul 5, 2009)

Rodney R said:


> I think it would be a waste to put N on after the last cutting of the year - you're trying the make growth that you won't be able to harvest?
> 
> Rodney


I understand what your thinking is....especially with the costs of amendments now. But I do think it is helpful to put a small amount of N down in the fall IF you have experienced heavy to severe drought during the summer. It helps the root system recover going into the winter and is helpful for early spring growth.

Regards, Mike


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## vhaby (Dec 30, 2009)

Late summer, early fall N application is good for producing standing hay for late fall grazing if needed and if it will work with your grass species like it does for hybrid bermudagrasses, especially Tifton 85 in southern states.


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## hay wilson in TX (Jan 28, 2009)

Now we will put the horse in front of the cart.

There is no Universal ONE Best fertility program. It really depends on your soil characteristics.

With a heavy high CEC clay soil in theory we can apply Nitrogen every 5 years. 
(Nitrogen just does not leach away HERE)  
In practice I have had nitrogen persist on this farm thru 7 full seasons with no loss in yield or feed quality.

Not too far from Canton, TX in theory nitrogen will persist for 6 weeks. In Practice the feed quality starts falling off in three weeks.

It is up to each grower to know his soil well. 
I expect all those responding should never attempt what can work HERE.

My method is to look at the hay analysis from each cutting, & from each field and make adjustments the following season. I have fertilized for a 4 ton grass hay yield and harvested 7 tons/A two seasons in a row. 
There are some years that these fields receive zero nitrogen with no loss in yield or quality.

Here is something, Lime is never used as a soil additive around here. Sound good? Well all that calcium ties up our phosphate big time. Turns Phosphorous Fertilizer into a hard rock phosphate.


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