# New Holland self propelled baler



## T.A.Farms (Apr 21, 2016)

I found a NH 1426 self propelled baler locally, I don't know anything about these things and was wondering if it would be worth getting my hands on. I will be doing about 2000 bales with it a year. Any info on theses would be great


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## nhbaler282 (Oct 5, 2009)

I have a 1282 and I really like it you do know it is a 16 +18 size bale don't you. They are real handy but it is expensive to repair especially the vari drive. Wish it was close to me I would be interested


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## Three44s (May 21, 2016)

Welcome TAFarms!

I just acquired a sixth SP (was given a 1425 the other day) and we have been fooling around with them since the spring of '16.

Prior to that we were running NH pull PTO balers since '69.

Basically NH put the same baler as ther pull types with small changes on top of the same or virtually the same transport over the span of 30 years.

As nh1282 cautions, the varidrive can be a pain but to me the ability to match ground speed to the windrow condition was the prime attraction to these machines in the first place. The trick with the ground drive is to keep it greased, not over greased but adequately greased. You want to follow the instruction placard on the back panel. It suggests greasing each unit in it's collapsed position, that means restarting the engine and running the speed control to it's highest setting to grease the sheive on the left.

There are splined shafts and matching splined shelves constituting the varidrive that are no longer available from NH and the only way we have found to get those parts is to find used ones. In our case we have been accumulating whole and nearly whole machines for peanuts. I would have not likely bought new vari drive parts from NH anyway because they were so proud of them, we are talking astronomical prices.

The whole varidrive issue can be put to rest by converting it to a hydrostatic drive and another member of this forum has done just that. He said they became real sweet hearts. I have found that the original system in good shape and kept up is no great shakes. Belt replacement virtually drops off the radar if you employ the trick my "baler guru" taught me.

The way to check that machine you are looking at is to disconnect the spring, slip the belt off so you can try rocking the shelves to check for play. Start the engine and move the drive to different positions and recheck again. Be careful and don't pinch the belt however .... those belts are 300 bucks a pop! If you do end up buying the SP be sure and stage your up and down shifts. Ie. don't just stand on the control in one big speed change ... do it in several taps on the lever. Also I refrain from moving the control to change speed for really small sections of varied windrow.

I personally did not like baling with gasoline vs. diesel going into this project but the fuel consumption has not been that bad. Perhaps that 1426 you are looking at is a Perkins diesel? That would be grand!

After so many years door seals don't seal so well and (more) dirt wants to come into the cab. Get your air cleaned up. Think of Pig Pen from the comic strip Peanuts as you will often look like that with a big dust cloud swirling around your machine. In the short run I bought some self adhering door seal to bridge the gaps and invest in new cab filters, one working and one being cleaned. Remote the cab air intake to a higher level and install a precleaner on top of the new intake location and add an inline booster fan to pressurize the cab even better. A larger filter you add perhaps on top of the cab as a pre filter or primary filter would be even better.

Besides the varidrive section the SP transport has a dry clutch and a mechanical three speed plus reverse, a rear differential housing and a final drive. These components are very trouble free, but agin NH does not support them either so I run Lucas oil additive to stretch their lives. Lots of parts continuity across the spectrum here though. I think the only part that changed are the output stub drive axles when NH went from the 1282 to the 1283's.

I guess the most notable thing about these SP balers that you will not change is the greater difficulty to work on them or service them. Young, flexible and skinny are great assets. I am none of the above. Running the machine on some relatively thin blocks helps crawling around (under) them.

Compact design helps them be manuverable and trust me they are but you pay the the price at wrench or grease gun time. Further, how long has this machine sat and how dry are those so called "lifetime" bearings?

On two 1283's we spent $2700 mostly on bearings in 2016 alone and only have one machine to show for it that's running thus far as we have more to go with the second machine.

I like the visibility. You are looking directly at the knotter and your star wheel and the windrow is directly in front of you. You don't see the hay inside of the header though. I added a convex mirror to help but then had to add a hand operated by a pull rope brush to periodically clean the mirror and a header light relocation to work with the mirror more effectively.

We had an epic problem with our 1283 that I run and there is a looooong thread about our trials with it here on the forum (do a search if you care to) last year and the beginning of this year. Don't worry, that 1426 could not do to you what our 1283 was doing to us as to the cause.

I will be glad to answer any other questions that I can and there are a few members with a lot more knowledge than I will ever have.

BTW, your 2000 bales per year is just a warm up for a good SP, no sweat if she's in shape. You will be surprised how fast they bale in general and even opening a field up becomes a breeze.

Best regards

Three44s


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## Three44s (May 21, 2016)

I forgot to mention my issue with the OEM seat.

It was bottoming out on rougher ground on a fairly regular basis and my back had just about had it. On the NH web site it was obvious that it would cost far more than it was worth to rebuild it and gain little.

After passing over an air ride seat from a diesel truck my brother wrecked out, I went to a local truck wrecking yard and they led me to a room full seats and turned me loose!

$50 for any air ride seat in there and nothing older than year 2000!

I came home with a Bostrum 915 in good shape. A current production 915T sells north of $700 currently.

A few bucks for one of these inexpensive 12v mini compressors and I was going to be in business!

My wife and her sisters have been cleaning out their father's house and sitting on the garage floor all by itself was a booster battery w/ compressor built in. The skinny was nobody wanted it. The battery had gone gunny sack but the compressor still works fine.

Sulfated battery removed ... unit cleaned up and mounted and hard wired all inside the cab it works sweet!

I think I ran the compressor about 15 seconds once every 4 days? . ... that's fine by me though because that little stinker sounds like a JACKHAMMER!

My guy that runs our bale wagon is jealous, don't worry as his machine is next ....

Best regards

Three44s


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## nhbaler282 (Oct 5, 2009)

Three 44's what is the trick did your baler guru teach you on the varidrive I am still learning this is my first selfpropelled baler I have had it a few years and I am still learning. I like your idea on the air ride seat that one is a winner!! I have bought a 912 NH speedrower waiting on a man to pick it up for me and that will be another learning curve because the self propelled machines were never used in this part of the country so I dont have any experience with them but fixing to learn. I tried to buy a 1283 from a man that I bought the 1282 from but he wont sell it but found another one they all are a long ways from here but they are interesting machines. Last year a friend told me that one of his friends called him and said you want believe what I just saw going down the hwy,it was a man driving a hay baler down the hwy he saaid I know who it had to be.


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## Three44s (May 21, 2016)

nhbaler282,

What our guru taught us is to take a washer or washers and place it under the main tension bolt on the left set of shieves. This is the bolt with a grease fitting on it. You are compensating for belt wear and I am assuming in a way not achievable with the standard adjustments.

This fellow has owned and ran just about every self propelled NH they made sans the 166 and the 1426 over the better part of six decades. He baled for himself but also custom and also sometimes ran a second SP baler (his wife would run the cab model, while he ran the open station machine) she would run into the night as long as she could but go to her day job by the day.

With all this experience he told me that once he started following the belt wear with washers as he describes, he never bought another belt. Mind you he bought, ran and either sold machines or junked out the machines that wore out along the way. So each of those machines undoubtedly came with a belt.

What I did was to collect washers of various thicknesses, some thin ones included with a suitable inside dimension and try different combinations until we got the right combination. In the end with our machine and our belt we ended up with no washers needed after we found and replaced the bearings in the clutch housing (opposite side from the washer side) that were failing.

Best regards

Three44s


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## nhbaler282 (Oct 5, 2009)

OK thanks Three44's I am going to copy that and put it in my book,I guess he was putting the wahers in there until he got the measurement that the book says,I replaced all the shafts and the sheaves on mine when I restored it and it was expensive but I figures that would last me a lifetime but now I know how to keep it going. THANKS


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## Three44s (May 21, 2016)

nhbaler282,

An employee that first brought my attention to the washer idea (we are both friends with the guru) said the washer trick is a short cut to a full on by the book adjustment. I was relating a question you posed last year to that effect and he agreed. In effect the washers if needed save your belt from excessive slippage until you are up to taking the time to "do it the right way" or by the book.

We also figured out our guru has been fooling with SP balers around five decades, not six like I posted the other day. My mistake.

You mentioned replacing shafts and shieves on your 1282. How did you source them?

Also if you end up with a 1283 or a 283 for that matter, don't forget to keep that cable that runs the plunger stop on your radar.

I just acquired a 515 NH and low and behold, a cable runs to the safety .... yuk!

Three44s


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## nhbaler282 (Oct 5, 2009)

Three44's

I do remember you telling about that trick last year and I did put a washer on mine and it did help but I didnt know if you had heard of another trick. I ordered all of those parts from my NH dealer a few years back and that might of been the last set NH had I dont know but I saved the old ones and if I need them I am going to see if a machine shop could fix the splines maybe. I do grease them like the book says about changing the positin of them to grease them trying to make these last as long as I can. I think I got the 1283 bought and I will keep a eye on that cable,my 570's have that cable on them too and so far no problem. I am going to raise the bottom of the chamber on the 1283 like I did on the 1282 to make 14=18 inch bales instead of the 16=18 bales it is a job to do but it is worth it.

Keep teaching us what your baler guru says about his tricks on these self propelled experience is priceless


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## Three44s (May 21, 2016)

I should have brought the 2 ton!

The guru called, he said bring your pick up, it won't heavy .... yeah right .... lol!

We finished one of the storage sheds but had to leave some those treasures for next time and the guru said look over here ..... yes, I sure should have brought the 2ton! There in the second shed ... even more goodies!

All I could say was .... We will be back and we will bring the 2 ton! Lol!

Besides the baler parts and even vari drive stuff were hydraulic pumps, motors, cylinders and spools and it all had the rear bumper just about draggin'

Sore backs and all, it was a great day!

Three44s


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## Tx Jim (Jun 30, 2014)

I read on another discussion forum that a NH SP baler recently sold at a Mecum Auction for $28K


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## somedevildawg (Jun 20, 2011)

Tx Jim said:


> I read on another discussion forum that a NH SP baler recently sold at a Mecum Auction for $28K


Wow.....


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## Tx Jim (Jun 30, 2014)

I just found out it was a model 168.


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## Three44s (May 21, 2016)

Mecum sold two 166's in September for 11,000 and 11,500 respectively in Iowa and the more recent one for 25,500 in Penn.

Whew!

I'll stick with six machines for 3.8 K

Three44s


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## nhbaler282 (Oct 5, 2009)

OK three44's dont keep all those parts for your self spread the wealth down here. LOL


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## Three44s (May 21, 2016)

There is a fine line between needy and greedy isn't there? Lol

Amongst the stuff we had to leave for another trip is what my employee thinks is the remains of a SP forage chopper, specifically the hydrostatic drive off of it. The guru bought the chopper for the engine but the story goes that he saved the drive system for a future conversion to a SP hay baler. My impression but I only glanced at as we had our hands full .... lol ...that it was the pump and motor for a hydro swing hay cutter. We will be back tomorrow and get the skinny!

I am wondering what happened to the OP? We have been keeping his sand box warmed up but he's MIA.

Best regards

Three44s


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## bool (Mar 14, 2016)

Well, I am enjoying reading the discussion anyway, and I am sure others are too. I did a round in a neighbour's 1281 when I was a youngster. Another neighbour had one too. I have always liked the NH SP balers but will probably never own one.

Roger


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## Three44s (May 21, 2016)

Roger,

Thank you for the kind words.

It's funny how people decide what machines to buy. Self propelled hay balers never sold in great numbers, I think New Holland sold only about 700 units of the 1283 model. Yet if we consider combines one has to look far and wide to find a combine that is drawn and powered by a tractor.

I don't raise much grain but even if there were a good selection of tow behind combines I would still prefer a self propelled harvester because they have a drive system that allows the operator to match it's ground speed with the conditions at hand and the operator is in a better position to monitor those conditions as they change and effect changes in operating the machine to optimize it's production.

All the negatives leveled at SP hay balers, having to maintain another engine, eating dirt etc also apply to combines but there are many sp combines and relatively few sp balers. Go figure.

While I don't raise much grain to combine, I do generally spend an inordinate amount time on a hay baler and if anything keeping a hay baler within it's best operating regime is more important than keeping a combine at it's best feed rate.

A sp combine is certainly more manuverable than a tow behind would be, but in baling hay you are also creating a virtual pylon course if you will in relation to accessing and cleaning up any broken bales or wind dispersed parts of windrows and manuvering to finish out point or short rows.

Just in baling my end or head rows I'd wager my time is cut in half using a sp baler, if I want to back up it is no challenge to look over my shoulder or for a short reversal just glance at my mirror to verify there is not a bale in my path. Further if a bale is there often I can twist the baler around it. But the amount of times I need reverse is also reduced because I can almost clean up 100% on a 90 degree corner with an sp.

Try any of that with a pull baler.

Dirt and dust is a factor with the sp balers but just as it is with combines, well maintained cabs with filtered air pressurizers are the solution. With my allergies I could never handle an open station machine without breaking out one of my air filtered helmet systems, so I tip my hat to the folks in the past who did but it's not for me.

Best regards

Three44s


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## nhbaler282 (Oct 5, 2009)

The selfpropelled is the way to go much more movable in tight areas I eat the dust on the 1282 and have worked with open top tractors all my life but luckily my allergies havent been bad yet. Three 44's we cant keep bragging on these selfpropelld balers because the price will go up,I just bought a 1283 about 400 miles from me and waiting on a friend to go get it for me after thanksgiving it is working but has been setting up a while going to reduce the bale size to 14 instead of the 16 as if I dont have enough of projects going on something to work on all the time but cant afford to buy all that fancy new paint but you need to ship those extra parts down here to texas


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## Three44s (May 21, 2016)

nhbaler282,

Congrats on acquiring that 1283 and I am glad you will get move up to a cab. Watch that sneaky cable issue however.

I see your point we better put a lid on it and just revel in our admiration of self propelled balers quietly ..... lol! The last thing we want do is to trigger a run these machines ... LOL!!

As far as the parts go I better see how this plays out. I have three 1283's, two 1281's and a 1425 to dote over.

In our big haul from the guru's place he is cleaning out we have more than enough stuff to make them all whole, but I will likely not go that far.

We also bagged two complete but different hydrostatic drive systems from the guru. One is the ground drive from a NH forage chopper, the other from a Hesston swather.

Our friend the guru sure saved treasures ... whoooo hooo!

Best regards

Three44s


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## nhbaler282 (Oct 5, 2009)

Three44's you are lucky to find all of those parts don't forget to share. LOL when your guru was telling you about shimming the left pulley did he say anything about doing the same on the right side pulleys? I was looking at mine and wondered if it will help to put a washer on the right side may have to take it apart to do it but looks like it wouldn't hurt to put a washer in it to close the sheaves together like on the left side,as the sheaves wear they get wider and maybe this will help also,and greasing those movable sheaves I always grease them like the book says but not sure about how much grease to put on them dont want it come out and get on the belt,what was his advice on that? Thanks and Happy Thanksgiving to all


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## nhbaler282 (Oct 5, 2009)

I forgot to ask who was that on here that said and showed pictures of the hydrostatic drive he put on a selfpropelled baler and wish he would tell us more about how he did it and what did he get the hydrostatics off of to put on his baler,seems like that would be the way to go


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## Three44s (May 21, 2016)

nhbaler282,

There are times I wish you were not as far away as you are but when I think about my growing parts inventory I realize I might have to sleep with them .... lol!

He said just the left side for the washer trick. But I will ask him again as I will be seeing him in the near future as we still have the big loads to retrieve from his old place ... one of which is that 1425 he is giving me.

He believes in just one pump per splined shaft but his frequency is about every 600 bales for the entire baler. I have been more erratic on how many pumps and probably average 2-3 pumps each and my interval is more up around 1000 bales. I have not had any belt slippage except when a bearing was failing in the clutch housing and no grease on my belt yet.

As I recall you have new parts on yours and that makes a difference. As such your space for grease is less. I would consider a grease like Lucas or Power Punch with their high level of tackifier to make them stay betters a good investment. The guru swears by either of those two greases.

HALLSHAY was the member who had a SP that they converted to hydrostatic. He missed us asking for details. Look at the old thread I started on SP balers last year and he responded on page 1.

Over in Seattle WA there is a specialty shop that rebuilds splined shafts. I have been planning on contacting them about the varidrives what it would take to build or repair any of those components and also to build converter shafts to hook a hydrostatic trans to them as an alternative to fixing belt systems. I would hate to modify a vari drive shaft to run the pump or a motor and thus lose it for it's original intent. A converter makes more sense in the long run.

I have a project I want to try and it will necessitate pulling a trailer of some yet to determined weight and I figure that a varidrive will not takethat added load with even the best of care and especially on our slope, hence the quest for a couple of my SP balers to be converted. I have two hydro systems from the guru. One is the entire pump and motor set up from a Heston 6550 swather. The second and likely the easiest of the two is the hydrodrive off a NH SP forage chopper.

Are you likely to get that 1283 or do you know yet?

Happy Thanksgiving to you as well and to all the members of Hay Talk

Three44s


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## nhbaler282 (Oct 5, 2009)

Thanks for the information,I can't believe he is giving you that 1425 you are one lucky person guess the good lord is happy with you. Yeah I am going to get that 1283 my friend is supposed to go on thursday and he said he would be here on saturday,I just cant wait!


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## Three44s (May 21, 2016)

To be perfectly honest, the free 1425 is missing some parts. Main gearbox, engine, plunger and knotter.

He sold the knotter to me for $150. The varidrive is complete.

I have the twin to this machine in a pull type (425) complete. Those two machines, his 1425 and our 425 are made with a needle spread 8.5" that falls into a narrow serial number range. So my plunger should fit and that also means that I have two knotters that would fit it as well.

Congrats on getting that 1283 soon! In the stuff we hauled off from the guru's stuff there are several dry type air filter housings. From those I am going to pick one to add to the 1283 I am running for pre-filtering the cab air. I plan on adding a booster fan as well between the added filter and the filter inside the cab. I also will pull the cab air from a point somewhat higher than the roof line. I already added supplemental door gasket material to reduce dust leaking in.

I am glad I added the air ride seat this year and if I did not have the 12v air compressor that my wife's family was about to throw away, I would buy the Harbor Frieght unit for peanuts in a heart beat. I average running my compressor about fifteen seconds every four days. No kidding!

Three44s


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## nhbaler282 (Oct 5, 2009)

This 1283 that I ak getting has the air conditioner on top of the cab which I guess was added later,I dont know much about it until it gets here I will have to check it out and see why it was added but maybe it is better for all the dust. Where did you find the door molding is it just regular automotive molding?


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## Three44s (May 21, 2016)

Air conditioning in and of itself will not help with the dust except to allow you to run in warmer conditions without opening the window for some coolin and as much as AC must be kept clean to allow proper heat exchange it will require as good an environment as one can muster.

I am wondering if your AC unit is an old Kaiser unit?

The factory AC for these balers as far as I know had the evaporator inside and up against the roof of the cab. The condenser was mounted on top of the hood over the top of the engine and it had it's own 12v fan to move air through it. The pump was under the cab on the SP frame and was belt driven from the "live shaft" that runs forward to the baler.

The 1426 was an exception in that my understanding is that the condenser was relocated to in front of the radiator.

In our area there are a lot of these balers that might have an evaporative cooler and a heater. We can have some pretty chilly conditions at night or spring and fall and most of the time our hot weather is also low humidity.

I am gathering AC components, both OEM and others and plan on getting those and some heaters going as well on as many of our SP's as I can.

The door gasket material that I used thus far is a thin self adhering foam strip and I have only augmented my old door stripping.

I have located regular door gasket material but took the above short cut route for now.

Best regards

Three44s


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## nhbaler282 (Oct 5, 2009)

I will know more about it this weekend when he gets it here. Been working on a 912 speedrower trying to get it working it has been setting for about 8 years the engine throwed a rod and I am checking everything out first before spending the money on the engine and the hydrostiatic not be working thinking about pulling the engine out of the ford 5000 and putting it in the 912 to see if the rest of it is good. Do yall run any of the self propelled haybines in your part of the world? Nobody down here does they all use the disc mowers mostly 3 pt,I am going to post on here and see if anybody still runs them


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## Three44s (May 21, 2016)

We run an 1118 NH swather, 14 ft.

I know of two of the SP haybines (I believe we are talking the same machine) in our area and they may be sitting. A haybine is the machine without an auger? A reel and a wide conditioner but that's it?

Three44s


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## nhbaler282 (Oct 5, 2009)

Well I finally got the 1283 it looks to be in good shape need to tune up the engine and do some adjustments on the baler,luckily it is twine tie but it looks like it was originally wire and of course it needs a lot of tender loving care which it will get. I am going to try it out first see what all it needs then cut the chamber down to the 14 * 18 THOSE 16 * 18 are just too heavy,the air conditioner on top is not factory and it looks like it didnt have a air conditioner from the factory and this one was installed later I havent a name on it yet but worry about the ac later,I think the 1282 got jealous because the 1283 is getting all the attention LOL


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## Three44s (May 21, 2016)

Glad to hear about your new baby. Hope your 1282 gets over it's envy.

Be sure and check that cable guard!

If you need any advise on your AC maybe I can help some but I am sure there are folks on the forum that know a LOT more than I do.

Best regards

Three44s


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## nhbaler282 (Oct 5, 2009)

Thanks Three44s somebody has changed that cable to the old style bar like used on the 282,I like that a lot better the baler has been run hard but put up dry not much rust like down here in our humid climate,I like buying equipment from north or west where the equipment doesnt sit in the rain and humid climates like it is here s lot of good stuff goes bad because of the wet climate. Might have to have some advice on the air condition when I get to that part. Thanks


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## Three44s (May 21, 2016)

I hope the past owners took care with the varidrive.

I have first dibs on the guru's current baler, a pto twine 283 when he fully retires.

It is a real cream puff .... I mean seriously it is in stellar shape as it has not done much and it would make a good replacement for the baler to replace the one on the 1283 that I call Orville.

Oriville's baler is the roughest of all six of my SP's. Oriville (the person) was not a mechanic nor a maintainer, he was a true cowboy and the machine he used to own that I named after him show it. Also Orville has had a LOT of hay run through it.

We have nearly finished hauling off the stuff from the guru's place. There are some more goodies he wants us to take out of his shop. I spoke for his complete valve grinding machine already for a good price. I am glad we have all the big loads out of the way before we get slick roads.

The first big one was his Ford Coe 750 with a good 20 ft bed. He bought it for the engine and trans. and drove it home. He used the motor ... a 391 in his harrowbed and was going to use the 5 sp trans there but has not yet and might sell it to me instead. I have a Clark 285 (5 sp) already though.

Dad had a C600 for a number of years when I was a kid. He sold it and lately I have had a funny hankering for one to "play with". On my route to and from town I pass by one and threaten to stop and check out the for sale sign but the guru removed that temptation by giving me this 750.

Second was the 1425 baler. This morning we made two trips, a fast one with a bunch of wheel line torque tubes with western ends and the final one with a parts swather, a Hesston I bought primarily for the hydrostatic drive works but also for a nice cab for whatever?

All in all, for the prices he sold some particularly more valuable items for and gave me a lot of simularily valuable items but hard to sell like the stuff for these SP balers, I have done very well and the guru is very pleased to boot. We helped each other as his (sold) property is to be cleared out by the end of this month and now he is within striking distance of his goal.

Three44s


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## nhbaler282 (Oct 5, 2009)

That is a find there to find a 283 in that kind of shape,The 283 werent real good on bale shape here anyway so a trick I came up with that I do on all my balers that have that kind of feeding system including the 282 is I take out the big spring in the aluminum square bar and put it back together and drill a hole through it and the round bar that telescopes and make it solid so it cant telescope what happens is the spring gets weak and the bar telescopes too much and not get enough of hay in the left side and this does help a lot here anyway where we mostly bale bermuda grass,if you try it be sure you know how to take that spring out safely because it will hurt you if you dont know how to do it,I am going to take the spring out of the 1283 as soon as I can get to it


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## nhbaler282 (Oct 5, 2009)

I got a 66 C60 chevy truck that was under a barn and got it running and it is in good shape but be extra careful with those widow maker wheels nobody around here will fix them so I done it myself put them back on the truck and chained them and then aired them up standing out of the way they are dangerous,they say dont air them up if they are low without a lot of precautions hate for something to happen to you and all those selfpropelled go to the junk yard because I am too far away to come get them,I told my wife and kids if something happens to me to be sure that all my New Holland stuff goes to a good home and not the JUNKYARD!


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## Three44s (May 21, 2016)

I had a wreck with one of those spring loaded bars .... took out the pressure gauge on our shop press years ago!

I think all of our balers later than our 282 are running solid bars or have been converted to them.

I don't know about the wheels on that old Ford cabover but they are likely the old split rims you are referring to.

Thanks for looking out for me, I need all the help I can get .... lol!

I'll have to leave implicit instructions with my nephews if they decide to carry on after I check out that if they decide to ditch my SP balers at some point, that they are to register on this forum and contact member nhbaler282 at once!

Best regards

Three44s


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## nhbaler282 (Oct 5, 2009)

Oh yeah,tell them to contact me just might to have a parade of selfpropelled balers making a trip frpm washington state all the way to east texas. I have been doing some thinking about a hydro on the 1283 I wish HayHall would chime in and tell us what he used and how he done it


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## Three44s (May 21, 2016)

LOL! A parade of NH SP hay balers running from E Washington all the way to East Texas?

That ought to make "the papers". .... LOL!!

Best regards

Three44s


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## Three44s (May 21, 2016)

Converting a SP baler to hydrostatic is a bit of a challenge, that's for sure.

Getting the speed right on the hydraulic motor is the key and having enough torque.

An accurate tach reading on the engine would give one a great starting point because figuring the speed inputted to the clutch is just a bit of algebra then.

If you've got an orbit motor turning in the ball park of the RPM of those shieves of the varidrive, that would be golden.

Three44s


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## bool (Mar 14, 2016)

The last time I recall a NH SP baler in the newspaper was in New Zealand about 20 years ago. Some bloke who lived up the top of the North Island bought a 166 at the bottom of the South Island and drove it home.

Roger


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## Three44s (May 21, 2016)

Roger,

I guess that I was more lucky than a "fixed male dog" .... five of my SP balers came from less than three miles away and this last one was the "long distance" unit, it was about 12 miles down the same road ... straight shot!

We drove two of the first five home, car dollied the remain three of the first five and hauled the latest prize on a goose neck.

What concentrated so many SP balers in my neck of the sagebrush was the fact that a fellow I euphemistically call the guru who custom baled for many years with these machines in the course of his work demonstrated to his many customers the virtues of these machines. Some of these farmers wanted their own afterwards. In my case I got behind in our baling and I rented one of his wire 1283's (we were running wire back then in our PTO baler then as well), but I had some issues with it back then. Today that machine sits in pergetory on our ranch, still a wire baler and we call it "Orrivile".

The guru has ran, bought, sold and traded iron including these machines all these decades.

For his closest friends he would also find other machines and even help retrieve them .... an enterprising fellow can make a lot of tracks over fifty plus years.

As the guru winds down his life's work (his knees and sense of balance are not the greatest) he needed to finish clearing out the property he and his wife sold where they have lived for many years. He still is operating at a reduced level.

I chose to pass on his diesel converted 1425, not because he was priced too high, by any standard he was quite reasonable but rather cattle prices were too low and we thought that we had whipped our pin shearing/needle baling up problem with our running 1283. But our problem was not solved and I decided to acquire it but a fellow with just twenty acres of grass hay stepped up and bought it, go figure.

But the new owner turned down the "parts machine" that was included! The guru gave it to me along with all the rest of his many saved spare parts!

Three44s


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## bool (Mar 14, 2016)

SP machines can capture a fellow's imagination all right, so I can see someone with 20 acres of hay buying one.

You seem to be becoming something of a guru yourself.

A this point, I doubt I will ever have one myself. My IH 440 is enough for the few small square bales I make these days. Still, it's possible one might follow me home one day.

Roger


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## Three44s (May 21, 2016)

Roger,

Well a grower with 20 acres would benefit from the improved maneuverability of a SP baler but the additional production would not be fully utilized on so few acres in my opinion.

Thank you for the kind endorsement but I am but a student of these machines.

As far as one following you home .... one just never knows the future! LOL!

Best regards

Three44s


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## bool (Mar 14, 2016)

Yes, of course it would not be fully utilised on 20 acres. But it could still capture someone's imagination enough to lead them to buy it.

I remember a 1281 coming onto a small farm my parents owned when I was a youngster. We had been messing around for hours with a stationary hay press, getting nowhere. It was before we had our own pickup baler. A local custom operator was working next door with his 1281. My father walked over and spoke to him. He turned up once he had finished the neighbour's paddock and pressed up 151 bales for us in 20 minutes.

Roger


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## Three44s (May 21, 2016)

My first recollection (also as a youngster) of SP balers was seeing the Guru out custom baling with his wire 1280 on a neighbor's place. Did not look too appealing to me from an operators perspective without a cab.

But as I grew up and was more involved and spent hours out baling with old gear tractors .... wishing for "one more gear" and learning about variable speed drive from running combines and the fact that SP balers also were so equipped and that the manufacturers had begun fitting cabs on them, my perspective changed. Periodically I would bug my father about SP balers and I was always met with much growling and dismissal ... but not stop complaining about wanting more hay baled in the short dew window our farm offers us!

I got behind on baling like what happens when you are haying and Mother Nature throws one of her wonderful curve balls at you so we called the guru. He was about as busy as a one legged man in a tail kicking contest but he was short an operator but long one wire 1283 hay baler. He offered to rent it to me! We were still running wire so it was no great shakes that his machine was also a wire machine. Or so I thought!

It turns out that Davis Walker had just gotten the bright idea that they would manufacture their baling wire differently and brag it up as "high tensile strength" right about then!

Our baler seemed to handle it fine but the guru's 1283 DID NOT .... for sour owl pucky! In making their wire "stronger" they made it more brittle and in a very short time I had one blasted mess. The whole thing just soured me on SP balers and that was unfortunate because it had nothing to do with the machine. Of course you know what they say, "perceptions are everything".

Many more years passed and we transitioned to power shift tractors pulling twine pto balers but I was still are finding us needing a "different gear". A neighbor had three NH SP balers sidelined after buying a new MF 1841 baler and I approached him about selling one of them to me if he ever got rid of them, which he aggreed to do.

Next spring he drove in and offered all three for a hard to refuse price and the rest is history.

My father is still with us and when I broke news that I had acquired (by then) five NH SP balers and the price .... I was braced for things getting thrown at me but instead he had a big grin on his face! His memory has slipped but when he was made aware that they had variable speed drives he was surprised and thought that would be useful .... do tell!

It's kind of bitter sweet after all these years to see him "come around" yet he does not even remember his previous resistance.

Three44s


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## nhbaler282 (Oct 5, 2009)

Three 44's I enjoyed your story there never was any selfpropelled equipment in this part of the world,it has always been pull type or horse drawn,I cant wait until summer so I can run this 912 speedrower cutting hay people wont know what it is they are starting to come around with the selfpropelled baler thing.LOL I got a question for you about this cab pressurizing system is this as good as a AC or is it just going to blow hot air? This baler does have a ac unit on top of the cab but I havent been up there to investigate it yet,it has the factory pressurizing on it but I dont see any kind of air compressor on it,working on other things on it now because the weather is cold but I need to check it out because it gets very hot here with the humidity you cant stay in a cab without ac


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## Three44s (May 21, 2016)

The cab pressurizer is just outside air temp unless it is "backed up" by something else that lowers the incoming air temperature.

In my part of the country, some used evaporative coolers on these balers but generally our relative humidity is low ... scary low often. I believe an evaporative cooler in your area would be worthless so it is not worth dwelling them for this discussion.

That leaves refrigerative cooling.

Leaving cooling aside for a moment, the cab pressurized you likely have if it is the same as mine is inadequate as it comes from the factory given the age of the door seals, the likely less than stellar fit of the door andwindow that opens and the advances in cab design and our collective expectation from operating more modern equipment with cabs.

The most obvious flaw in the cab pressurization system is the location of the outside air intake and the nature of it. The screen often plugs up requiring frequent cleaning. Second under optimum conditions the fan does not move enough air so any reduction due to a blocked screen and you have a rapidly deteriorating condition.

The machine I call Orriville has a good modification there. Someone took a piece of thin metal and blocked the outside cab air screen. In it's place a separate air pipe with a air pre-cleaner was installed of the same size and type used to pre-clean and supply air to the engine. The tube is long enough to pull much cleaner air than the factory screen.

My plan is to go a step farther than this however. My plan is to add a filter outside the cab so that the filter inside the cab becomes a secondary or final filter. I also want to add a booster fan outside the cab to assist the cab pressurized that is inside.

My experience with refrigerative air conditioning on these machines is that the factory installations had the evaporator inside the cab on the post side of the pressurized side of the fan. How your 1283 is put together is the question since it has an after market unit. Does the AC air pass through the pressurizer or is the airflow routed directly into the cab?

You mentioned you have not seen a compressor yet. The factory location is down under the cab with a belt driven off the live shaft that powers the baler. There is a short drive shaft just forward of the multigroove pulley with splines on it. The AC pulley is a single groove and fairly large in diameter.

Perhaps the compressor is driven electrically which would either limit the effectiveness of it or create quite a load for the alternator and it might be up on the roof. But also you might be looking at an evaporative unit?

Best regards

Three44s


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## nhbaler282 (Oct 5, 2009)

Thanks Three44s it doesnt have the pulley under the cab for a compressor I need to climb up there and see what kind of ac unit this is on top of the cab. the baler was probably originally from up north somewhere that didnt really need a ac,I am going to look today and let you know. I am just not familiar with a cab pressurizer system here all equipment has ac or back in the old days just rolled the windows down and drove 55 mph what we called the 55 air conditioner


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## Three44s (May 21, 2016)

If hoses lead to and from roof top unit they would give a clue where the compressor had been but if that were the case, you would have your answer already.

Best regards

Three44s


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## nhbaler282 (Oct 5, 2009)

Well i checked it out today and it looks like some kind of unit that u put water in it and these wheels turn in the water and the blower blows air thru it and the air is supposed to be cool that what it looks like to me never seen nothing like it. May just take it off and try to rig up a air codition from a old pickup


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## Ray 54 (Aug 2, 2014)

My first swather had swamp cooler for the cab and it as not be enough cool on a warm day. With your humidity it will not cool. I have not kept up with your posts nhbaler282,but if your going to bale more than hour or 2 a day don't cheap out on air conditioning.


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## Three44s (May 21, 2016)

Ray 54,

+10

Yes, unfortunately nhbaler282 ...... you have an evaporative cooler and for your climate it is not even in the cards. Only refrigeration equipment will suffice in your circumstances.

The air shrouding and screening on all the NH SP balers short of finding the tin works off a 1426 is not designed for the condenser to be located in front of the radiator like most vehicles and other equipment. For 1283 balers etc. New Holland situated the condenser on top of the engine cover (hood) upright on it's edge and cooled it with an electric fan.

The compressor ran off what I call the live shaft from under the cab.

The evaporator and by extension the expansion valve were installed inside the cab in an extension of the duct work just to the right of the cab pressurizer housing the fan and cab air filter.

The receiver drier must be in the circuit before the expansion valve.

A neighbor has a NH 903 or 912 or there abouts that has AC stuff on it that looks like the spitting image of the major components for these balers (even the condenser unit including the electric fan). He wants to sell the picked over machine but when the guru's situation came up we had to catch the big fish first lol!

What I suggest whether the components come from a car, truck or other piece of equipment that one takes the condenser and evaporator to a radiator shop experienced in this work and get them tested unless they came from a working sealed and charged system. Unless the hoses are late model ie. made for R134a, I would replace them.

With respect to a condenser built narrow long and/or wide, I would figure on a cluster of smaller electric fans or a large one that covers as much surface area as you can muster.  It is said that the thermal efficiency of R134a is not as good as good 'ole R12 was. It's one thing in a car going down a road with some speed and quite another in a piece of equipment working dirty and slow to get rid of all that heat build up.

Something else to consider is making sure you end up with low and high pressure safety switches.

Best regards

Three44s


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## nhbaler282 (Oct 5, 2009)

Thanks both of you for the advice i got a 912 that i am working on and it has the ac unit on it according to the parts book it is the same except for some of the sheet metal does that man still want to sell some parts off the 912


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## Three44s (May 21, 2016)

He wants to sell the whole thing such as it is but I am not sure which model that it is and I still have my eye on the AC and the cab .... for my wild hairs you know .... lol!

The Diesel engine and the hydrosat parts were stolen off it as it sat for a long time in somebodies pasture before the current owner acquired it for the header. Now he just wants the tires and wheels.

After my post last night I binged for AC condensers and found online sources for new ones at prices that surprised me how reasonable they were. If I were to build an AC system up from the boot straps so to speak I think I would not mess around with a used one very much as I previously suggested .... by the time you bring a radiator shop into the mix you are even or in the hole compared to new. Just pick a condenser for something that was built in large numbers as to the vehicle and make your own housing and position the fans to get as much air through it.

You mentioned the tin being different on your 912 but the parts swather I looked at had an evaporator housing and guts that are a twin to the way the baler units were set up.

As to the condenser out on the hood I can't say but as long as it has the capacity, who cares? ... and the cabs are near twins so how could be off by much?

The guru and I were talking about AC's the other day and he mentioned something that I had never thought about much ..... cab size. I have considered the area of glass and that goes hand in hand I suppose. There are tinting products that could help, of course the ability to bale at night would need to be considered. A sun shade attached to the cab might be useful. Anyway the guru felt that as NH made successive swather models that their cabs got larger to the point that the AC units were getting overworked but that Hesston did not follow that path.

I look at the 6550 I snagged off of him and I don't see that much difference but I do think that keeping much of the direct sun off the glass within reason could and should go a long way to reducing the AC's work load.

By the way if you tint your baler up to much and some night you end up on my door step I will let you finnish in my field, give you a good breakfast, a good place for a nap and a free plane ride or bus fare back home and a good second home for your 1283! LOL!!

Charitable aren't I?

Best regards

Three44s


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## nhbaler282 (Oct 5, 2009)

I might just have to come up there and show yall how to bale the proper way like we do here in east texas,LOL! We cant bale at night here just too much humidity you can tell it when the sun goes down,I used to when I round baled and them bales would get heavy at night you could feel it when they came out of the baler mostly done it just to finish up a field or trying to beat the rain coming in.

I guess I'm going to forget about the air conditioner for right now and finish up the rest of the baler and the speedrower,now it does have the complete ac unit and I know I can get it going and it gives me some ideas on how to rig up one on the baler like you said get some of the parts from the automotive stores cheaper,I got a 84 ford pickup that has air in it but I never use it it has a freon leak somewhere dont use it much except to haul tools and parts so I will look at it and see what I can use off of it

Checked the varidrive out could tell it needed some TLC and found the bearings in the clutch and flywheel shaft were going bad,and noticed the fixed sheave on that side was about a quarter inch from the snap ring so bingo there is where I can take up somr slack and push those sheaves together a little but I do remember NH says .300 gap between them but if they are worn the top will be out and the shimming that the guru was talking about will help correct that so hopefully shimming both sides will give me some more on the adjusting rod to keep the belt adjusted properly

I was thinking if we can find some kind of shaft that uses that same spline take the female end and bore out the old splines in the old hub and turn down the new shaft and press it into the sheave that was bored,of course all this done at a machine shop I am no machinest but the hard part maybe finding a shaft with those splines,there is a possibility that some of the driveshafts on a pickup might have that spline I am going to shake the bushes and see what I can find out

Now it is going to have to warm up up there before I can come up there and bale this baler told me it has had all that cold weather it can stand and likes it down here.LOL


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## Three44s (May 21, 2016)

Hey even as old as we are here, a fellow is never going be too old to learn!! LOL!! You don't have to worry about the cold much because we can't put up hay until later in May but you can need a cab heater in Sept/October on the last cutting!!

I still have to ask the guru but as far as I know you only shim the outside shieve on the left. I will also quiz him on adjusting the traditional way vs. shining. My sense is that you adjust first and use the shims secondary as a quick way to end slippage and then adjust when you have more time. But I have to check on that.

I will get you the name of a shop in Seattle WA that took a splined shaft from a fruit processing company that it was costing them 11k to replace and fixed it for 1k. I don't know about the internal splines but I would lay odds they can at least steer a person to a possible solution.

You mentioned about bearings in the bell housing I believe. We had those go out in summer of '16. An outer race spun and we changed that housing (bought one from the guru). I did not throw the damaged housing away because if we can figure out how to properly indicate it we might be able to build it back and line bore it or bore it and sleeve it. But to reduce a weak point we installed the new bearings with seals on one side only and facing outside on one and towards the clutch and throw out bearing on the inside. Then we bored and tapped for grease fittings and a plug on the opposite side from where the grease fitting went. The plan is to push new grease through with the plug removed to reduce back pressure on the seals and reinstalled the plug afterwards.

Three44s


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## nhbaler282 (Oct 5, 2009)

That is a good idea about the grease fitting I know New Holland says to fill the housing with grease before assembly,if we keep going like this we might get a job at New Holland as engineers.


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## Three44s (May 21, 2016)

Hmmmmm, they will never listen to us about these SP balers and anyone keeping their old stuff going through thick and thin ..... well they are not going to like us for that. Maybe those NH bean counters would be inclined on booking us on a "snipe hunt" at night in gator territory? LOL!

If you do fit a fitting there however, be sure to also install a bleed port with a removable plug so you reduce the chance of blowing a seal. A fitting that would release any back pressure but not let appreciable amounts of dust back in that worked without having to remove or manipulate it would be the best sort of plug.

Best regards

Three44s


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## clowers (Feb 11, 2011)

282 I would like to see your baler operate here in east texas this next summer. Good luck on your tune up as I have enjoyed yours and three44's dialogue on SP balers.

Scott


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## Three44s (May 21, 2016)

Thank you Scott!

Sometimes .... make that often ....... I was imagining droves of members running "for the exits" every time one of these threads start ramping up about these SP balers LOL!

nh282baler and I will have to get some pics and videos going next season of our rusty 'ole treasures so more members can see for themselves why we are going the extra mile to keep these old hay making soldiers going.

Best regards

Mark


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## nhbaler282 (Oct 5, 2009)

Clowers are you from east texas? Yeah i will let you know if u want to see it running. Ladt year me and the wife went to New Holland and toured the plant and visited with the employees they learned that i am a NH nut and talked with one of the engineers over square balers and told him about some improvement that i do that helps but we will see


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## clowers (Feb 11, 2011)

Yea born and raised in east Texas, in the heart of the oilfield. Would love to come see it run.

scott


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## clowers (Feb 11, 2011)

Mark,

It will be great to see those pics.


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## Three44s (May 21, 2016)

nh282baler,

You mean they gave you a tour? .... and they did not sick the guard dogs on ya' when you told them what series baler you are still running?

Maybe there is hope for me after all!

I think I saw a statistic on the 1283 where only 700 + were made.

I got a one on tour at Caterpillar once. They put me through the D6 through D11 assembly plant in Peoria , Ill. back in 1988. I love that big iron! At the back of the building an employee was waiting with a warmed up D8N high drive. They put me in the seat had me put it through it's paces. They put each cat through a 45 minute shake down there before the final paint and decals and black iron (lights) go on it. The operator rode with me and he did not like me just putting around with it and grabbed throttle so I would see how quick they were.

They are fast! .... and smooth too. A lot softer and quicker than our hard bottom D9.

It was a fine day indeed!

Mark


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## Three44s (May 21, 2016)

Scott,

Yes we can show the members that even when there is some snow on the roof, there can also still be a fire in the "house" with these outdated machines!

Best regards

Mark


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## nhbaler282 (Oct 5, 2009)

Clowers glad to have you in the discussion yeah I am over here in carthage just a hop and jump from where you are,yeah if you ever want to talk New holland balers just come see me.

Yeah three44s they will give tours on certain days and you have to call ahead of time. We got there a day early and they werent touring that day but I got to talking to them about my NH collection and one of the men in the office give me and the wife a personal tour and we got to meet a lot of the employees around the office and one of the engineers came down and talked with me for a while,I have been ready to go back ever since I left also met a man that has a good collection he has about 7 self propelled balers in mint condition and he had the 700,000 baler after the man traded it in on a new one,he worked for NH and retired from making dies in the plant had all kinds of NH equipment and stuff gave us a few things I got to quit talking about this are I will be leaving tonight and going back the holidays would just have to wait,LOL


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## Three44s (May 21, 2016)

nh282baler,

That would be quite an experience! That retired die maker sure walks the walk owning seven SP balers in mint condition!

Where is this factory?

Three44s


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## nhbaler282 (Oct 5, 2009)

It is in New Holland Pa where they make most of the hay equipment that is where the selfpropelleds were made back in the day


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## Three44s (May 21, 2016)

Got it.

Thanks

Three44s


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## bool (Mar 14, 2016)

I took this photo at the NH factory in New Holland PA in 1992. Not self-propelled balers but you get the idea.

Roger


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## nhbaler282 (Oct 5, 2009)

That is a very good picture looks like a lot of wire tied balers. Is that young man in the picture you?


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## Three44s (May 21, 2016)

That's a lot of wire balers for the time frame. Good picture though, thanks!

Three44s


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## bool (Mar 14, 2016)

No, it's my uncle Jack.

I had never noticed the racks for the wire coils on the diagonal bracing before!

Roger


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## Three44s (May 21, 2016)

Well Roger .... I hope your tour of the NH plant was worth the trek over ... whew!

........ I suppose there was a back story here? Lol

Cheers and Merry Christmas to all!

Three44s


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## bool (Mar 14, 2016)

I didn't go on a tour. We just walked around the outside of the factory one weekend. I was intrigued by the steel wheels for the Amish machines.

Merry Christmas. Ours is nearly over.

Roger


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## Three44s (May 21, 2016)

OH! ...... I don't want to contemplate steel wheels on my 1283!!

My air ride seat does well ..... but NOT that good!!

Best regards

Three44s


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## luke strawwalker (Jul 31, 2014)

nhbaler282 said:


> Well i checked it out today and it looks like some kind of unit that u put water in it and these wheels turn in the water and the blower blows air thru it and the air is supposed to be cool that what it looks like to me never seen nothing like it. May just take it off and try to rig up a air codition from a old pickup


Sounds like a swamp cooler...

Those things only work in single digit humidity levels, where the phase change of water from liquid to gas makes it act like a refrigerant, cooling the air (transfers heat from the air to the water as it turns from liquid to gas).

In high humidity, it just throws warm water around and makes the air coming through even MORE humid, so there's no cooling effect and higher humidity feels hotter than it is...

Later! OL J R


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## nhbaler282 (Oct 5, 2009)

I am going to take the swamp cooler off and throw it away and see if I can make a ac for it. The 912 speedrower has the same air unit on it so that will give me something to go by if I can find a junked out speedrower maybe I can get the fan and evaporator unit that goes inside the cab and put it on the selfpropelled there isnt any of these machines around here but hopefully I can find one somewhere,nowadays with UPS the sky is the limit on finding used parts,thought about checking with fry's in Pa or does anybody know of any good places that I can check on wish I could find one around here in texas might just have to take a road trip


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## Three44s (May 21, 2016)

nhbaler282,

I was nosing around the other day on a supply web site and the prices for new condensers were suprisingly low enough that if you had to spend some shop time $$ on a used one you would really be in the hole if you paid anything for it.

I would not be surprised that condensers put a fellow in the same predicament.

If you have the units I would think that pressure testing them for leaks yourself and then buying the flush and doing it would be in order.

If one can find the components still all hooked up and pressurized at a wrecking yard that would be a leg up on things.

A lot of folks under value the importance of new hoses. On older units made before R134a came into usage use hoses that are prone to losing the newer refrigerant. The new hoses are designed for 134, the older ones can get you by but you are on borrowed time as they don't have the Teflon liner to help keep it in. If you locate a system that came with 134 those hoses could bear consideration I suppose.

In my case I have some amount of these old componenents to draw from and will likely test them myself for leaks (condensers and evaporators) but I won't fool with any of the hoses, it just isn't worth getting all the elements together to find a busted hose somewhere when you need the machine. If a system breaks, to properly repair it long pump downs are the norm and that takes time. I may have my stuff hooked up for a couple days. I will run the pump for several hours, turn it off with everything closed off leaving it in vacuum and return later or the next day to pump it back down. The more you evacuate them the less likely there will be moisture left behind that entered when the system failed.

The last time I did a major session on our 1118 NH I rented a nitrogen cylinder and bought the gauge and regulator. Before I did the pump down I pushed the cleaning product through to do a flush, purged that and then pressure tested with it also.

I have used compressed air in the past at the urging of friends who are refrigeration guys but I don't like sending more water in there ... to be fair, I have other friends that swear by NOT using compressed air as well. I think I will just buy an "N" cylinder next time and be done with it.

The cabs on these SP balers are not real spacious and I have often thought about locating the evaporator on top and outside rather than in head knocking range if you are standing up. By extension the same goes for the pressurizer unit. I am less crabby if I can stretch my legs now and then, but if you are busy counting "knots" on your noggin' it sort of cancels out your legs feeling better .... lol

I think of how John Deere handles this issue for a "how to" on this. If one did not mind having a somewhat taller profile on the "build" you could shop for something that there were a huge number made (read: lower priced replacement).

Best regards

Three44s


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## nhbaler282 (Oct 5, 2009)

Thanks for all the advice im going to start looking around for some of the parts hopefully find some that are made by the thousands be cheaper.the main thing i need is the evaporating housing mine was taken out when they put the swamp cooler in it


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## Three44s (May 21, 2016)

An evaporator shaped like the original or any tractor for that matter would also cost an arm and a leg from what I have seen thus far but you might get lucky. A more rectangular unit like found in a common pick up or say a Suburban looks a lot more economical. But you will also need to be mindful of what fittings it is set up for .... so many pitfalls!

Also most if not all have their dimensions listed so you can judge what sort of housing you will need to conjur up. It would look weird but a heater/ac housing in it's entirety and build a little enclosure over it? You have a fan with it and controls etc.

Best of all, you have some time to search and "scheme" .... lol

Best regards

Three44s


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## nhbaler282 (Oct 5, 2009)

Three44s when you have time would you measure the pulley on the shaft that runs the air compressor that is another thing I have to look at I would like to fix as close as original as I can they know more about it than I do and I do have the speedrower to go by the evaporator and fan is all the same in both cabs that will help a lot


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## Three44s (May 21, 2016)

nhbaler282,

You bet!

Best regards

Three44s


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## wiedelcd (Jun 22, 2019)

i purchased my fathers 1282 about 4 years ago. I have very good luch thus far but this year i am havign vari drive issues as well as a bad clutch. bearing are showing thier age, and clutch parts are no longer serviced by new holland. any one have some ideas where i can get a clutch and pressure plate with throw out bearing that will work?


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## Three44s (May 21, 2016)

Wiedelcd,

I am told the clutch and pressure plate are the same as a certain vintage Studebaker pup. The bearings may still be available from NH

Three44s.


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## farmsled (Nov 4, 2020)

I know this is a longshot, but, I would like to get some info on where I might be able to purchase a self propelled baler. Preferably a 1425 or 1426 as I would like to find one with a cab. Thanks


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## Trillium Farm (Dec 18, 2014)

farmsled said:


> I know this is a longshot, but, I would like to get some info on where I might be able to purchase a self propelled baler. Preferably a 1425 or 1426 as I would like to find one with a cab. Thanks


You're panning for gold! They weren't very popular, there is a reason why they went extinct.


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## Three44s (May 21, 2016)

Not plentiful, but not extinct either.

Three44s


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