# John Deere 2520 tractor



## FarmerCline

I was wondering if these were good tractors. I am not familiar with John Deere tractors but have been researching them a bit. It seems that they have either a syncro transmission or a powershift transmission. Which is the better choice? I have read that the powershift eats up a lot of horsepower. I am looking for another tractor in the 60 to 70 horsepower range to use in the hayfield mainly mowing and both round and square baling. For the past two years I have been using a Massey Ferguson 275 about 70 horsepower and borrowing a friends Massey Ferguson 175 about 60 horsepower. I really do hate to keep borrowing his tractor. Both tractors have the multipower transmission and I really do like it. How much different is it to operate the syncro or powershift versus the multipower? I saw an add for the John Deere 2520 with 3000 hours, syncro transmission, and two hydraulic remotes and wanted to get some information before I go see it. Thank You.


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## gradyjohn

John Deere are good tractors. I don't know about that specific model. I buy them not so much they are better that other, but they have a good resale value. I have a 4450 with power shift and I love the transmission. When you het into something heavy and need to slow down you just pull the lever back. Push forward if you need to speed up. Work great when bailing.


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## Josh in WNY

I bought a gas 2520 with the syncro transmission and an Allied loader this summer. I have also used the 3020 and 4020 of the new generation series that are designed the same, but don't have any experience with the MF multipower that you mentioned. The JD 20 series tractors (also called their "New Generation" line) are nice tractors to operate and so far I have liked my 2520 a lot. Normally I would prefer the diesel engine, but I bought the gas since I will be using it in the winter for cleaning the driveway. I haven't run a baler or mower with it, but I would think that it would do ok. It might be a little small for a disc mower/conditioner, but shouldn't have any problem with a sickle style mower/conditioner. The only complaint that I have with the syncro transmissions when running a baler is gear selection, but that's because the IH 784 with torque amplifier that we have has spoiled me (16 forward gear choices vs. the 8 gears in the JD). The forward gears are about the same speed between the syncro and power shift, but the power shift has two more reverse gears than the syncro allowing for more selection.

As far as power shift vs. syncro... the power shift does use a little more HP, but there's not a huge difference. My owner's manual list 59 HP for a syncro and 55 HP for power shift with a diesel or gas engine. The power shift might be nicer for mowing and baling since you can change gears without having to use the clutch, but power shift transmissions also tend to be more expensive to repair.

Dual remotes will be nice to have, but keep in mind, unless they have been converted over, they will take the John Deere style hydraulic tips, not the now-standard Pioneer style tips. It's not a big deal, since there are adapters available in many places that you just hook on over the Pioneer tip and then insert into the JD hookup on the tractor, it just means one more thing to keep track of (or loose just when you need them the most)... don't ask me how I know that!

One thing I did learn when I was looking things up before I bought my 2520 is that this model used two different hydraulic pumps. There was a four-piston pump and an eight-piston pump and from what I was able to find, folks like the eight-piston version better (more flow output from the pump). Also, on our 4020, we have the CBC-style injector pump (diesel engine) which hasn't been made since the late 1970s, so parts are hard to find. I'm not sure if a similar style pump was used on 2520, but it might be something to check into.


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## NDVA HAYMAN

The JD 2520's are good tractors and are starting to become collector tractors. They were made in gas and diesel. The diesel being the most desirable. I prefer the powershift over the syncro range. Went to a sale in Delaware this past Saturday and a 2510 (earlier model) sold for $12,750 but the 91 yr. old retiring farmers grandson bought it. I stopped at $7500 but did buy another 2 cylinder JD from that sale. Seems like the diesels are running $12,000 and up for a nice one w/ factory weights, 3 pt. good sheet metal, 2 scv's etc. Mike


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## Vol

http://www.tractorda...deere-2520.html

Regards, Mike


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## SVFHAY

Dad bought a 2520 diesel console syncro new in '72. It left here at 9k hours with problems I own a diesel2510 powershift and it has always been a dog compared to the 20. Just too small of a tractor for the hp penalty of the powershift. Darn handy machine though. Definitely not for sale.


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## FarmerCline

Well I called about the tractor and it had already sold. I am kind of interested in looking for another one. On the powershift transmission say your in 6th gear and want to shift to 2nd gear do you have to shift through all the gears to get there? How do you tell if the hydraulic pump is a 4 piston or a 8 piston and which is a better pump? Thanks.


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## Josh in WNY

On the power shift, you can shift through the gears quickly, but the manual recommends doing it one gear at a time for smoother speed change. There is also a "clutch" that you can use if you need to stop quick, hooking up equipment or when you need to engage the clutch more slowly; the manual calls it an "inching peddle".

FYI, on the sycro transmissions, you can shift without stopping (still need to use the clutch) between gears that are in the same range. In order to shift between ranges, you need to stop the tractor.

In order to figure out if it's a 4 or 8 piston pump, first check the serial number, anything after S/N 22,001 will have an 8 piston pump. For earlier serial numbers you need to look at the outside of the pump itself. There is a hex plug on the outside of each piston on the pump. You can either count them all (pretty hard to do with all the other stuff around the pump) or just note the spacing between two adjacent plugs. The plugs are approximately equally spaced, so a 4 plug pump will have plugs that are about 90 degrees apart and an 8 piston pump will be about 45 degrees apart. You can see an exploded view of each pump on jdparts.com.


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## FarmerCline

Well I have been researching these tractors for the past month I really do like most of what I have read and heard about them. The syncro transmission puzzles me as why the gears in each shifting station do not go up in order like 1 and 2 instead of 1 and 3. I do not know if I really like that. I have also heard that it is sometimes hard to shift between gears in the same shifting station without almost stopping when you have a load on the tractor. On the powershift can the inching pedal be used like a regular clutch to stop forward motion of the tractor like when I would be tying and dumping a roll of hay? I guess I am kind of scared of the powershift since that is a completely new concept to me. I also heard that the tractor has a independent pto rather than a live pto. I have never used a independent pto any information on this would be helpful. From what I understand the clutch has no control over the pto and that it is only controlled by the pto lever. Thanks for the help.


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## Josh in WNY

When you first start using the syncro-range transmission, it is a bit confusing, but once you get used to it there isn't a problem. Sometimes shifting within the ranges is easier or harder depending on which gears your shifting between, how fast you are going, load on the tractor, etc. Wear and adjustment of the control linkage is also a factor.

I know that a lot of folks use the inching pedal on the power-shifts like a clutch but have never heard of it being bad on the transmission. However, given my limited experience with the power shift transmissions, I don't know for sure. (Hopefully someone else can fill in the details here). How long are you stopped when dumping a bale?

I do know that on the syncro-range transmissions, when the clutch is depressed the transmission hydraulic pump is stopped which stops the flow of oil to the main pump. There is a reservoir for the main pump that continues to provide hydraulic fluid, but it won't last very long if you are flowing a lot of fluid through the hydraulics. When I'm running the loader on my 2520 for a while when stopped, I shift to neutral and let the clutch out just to be sure I don't starve the pump.

I've seen discussions before on "live PTO" vs "independent PTO" and the various (sometimes incorrect) definitions of each. Tractordata.com has a good page on this (http://www.tractorda...hnical/pto.html) which I agree with. The 2520s all have an independent PTO. Having run transmission powered PTOs that stop when the transmission is disengaged as well as live PTOs, I strongly prefer the independent PTO. I don't have to worry about my mower or baler getting plugged as much since I can stop the tractor's motion without having the PTO stop (all without having to worry about pressing the clutch too far). If I need to shut the PTO off quickly, the lever is right there on the dash.

Hope this helps and good luck in your hunt for a 2520. As stated above they are starting to become a collectors item. When I stopped by the local parts guy to get a new light switch for mine, the first question he asked was "How much for the tractor?"


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## jtpfarm

Go with the powershift. They are much nicer to operate than the syncro. Also i would try to find a side council modle. The hydraulic controls will be beside the seat instead of on the dash. As far as the diesel over gas, DEFINATELY go with the diesel. The money you save buying a gas you will spend filling the tank. The diesel runs VERY cheap. I think you might be better off looking for a 3020 instead of a 2520.


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## Vol

"The diesel runs VERY cheap. I think you might be better off looking for a 3020 instead of a 2520." That is good advice Cline....and the resell(demand) is very good for a 3020. Of course if you have found a very good buy in a 2520, that would be a good choice. Side console controls are highly desirable. The 3020 is one of the all-time great models for Deere IMO.

Regards, Mike


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## Josh in WNY

While I prefer diesel, the 2520 I have is gas and I don't mind it. This is my first winter with it and not having to get up in the early morning to plug a block heater in so I can clean the driveway in the morning is really nice. But all things considered, I do prefer diesels. In our area, diesel and gas are pretty close in price, so there isn't any savings when you purchase fuel, but diesels are more economical when running, so you save money there. As far as a 3020 over a 2520, there is definitely a jump in power and there are also a lot more 3020s out there than 2520s.

As for the hydraulics, the 2520 was never available with the hydraulics on the dash. The 2510 and 2520 were the "outsiders" when it came to their productions years in that the 2510 was released in 1965 (a year after the 3020, 4020, etc. tractors were released). The 2520 was release in 1968 which (I think) is the year where the "late" model 20-series tractors with the side consoles were released. The 2510 had the hydraulics on the dash like the 10-series and the early 20-series tractors. This odd-ball timeline is also why a 2510 is available with the powershift transmission, but the rest of the 10-series tractors are not.


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## FarmerCline

I want to thank everyone for the help it is greatly appreciated. I guess it will take me awhile to get used to the idea of a independent pto since I am used to depressing the clutch half way to stop forward motion of the tractor while tying and dumping rolls and if need be all I have to do to stop the pto is depress the clutch completely. The fact that the hydraulic pump stops flowing when the clutch is depressed worries me as I do not want to have to shift to neutral every time I dump a roll of hay. It normally takes be about a minute or a little more to tye and dump a bale. I do plan on getting a diesel. I do not have anything against a gas though and it might be hard for me to pass one up if I found a really nice one cheap. Around here 93 octane gas without ethanol is higher than off road diesel. I am glad to hear that the diesel runs cheap as I have heard that they drink the fuel. I have also been looking at the 3020 but I have not found that I like. I have came across a 2520 with syncro transmission, diesel, about 4,000 hours, and looks to be in good shape and fairly good priced. I am going to call and get some more information on it. I have also read that it is fairly common for the gas models to be converted over to diesel is there any way I can tell from the serial number whether it was originally gas or diesel? Thanks for the help.


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## Josh in WNY

There is a way to "read" the serial number. Unfortunately, I don't have that good of a memory and my book that describes it is at home. The first part of the number can tell you what model tractor, style (row crop, utility, etc.), original transmission style, and engine type. The second part is the serial number of that particular tractor.

If I can remember when I get home, I'll look it up for you.


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## jtpfarm

FarmerCline said:


> I want to thank everyone for the help it is greatly appreciated. I guess it will take me awhile to get used to the idea of a independent pto since I am used to depressing the clutch half way to stop forward motion of the tractor while tying and dumping rolls and if need be all I have to do to stop the pto is depress the clutch completely. The fact that the hydraulic pump stops flowing when the clutch is depressed worries me as I do not want to have to shift to neutral every time I dump a roll of hay. It normally takes be about a minute or a little more to tye and dump a bale. I do plan on getting a diesel. I do not have anything against a gas though and it might be hard for me to pass one up if I found a really nice one cheap. Around here 93 octane gas without ethanol is higher than off road diesel. I am glad to hear that the diesel runs cheap as I have heard that they drink the fuel. I have also been looking at the 3020 but I have not found that I like. I have came across a 2520 with syncro transmission, diesel, about 4,000 hours, and looks to be in good shape and fairly good priced. I am going to call and get some more information on it. I have also read that it is fairly common for the gas models to be converted over to diesel is there any way I can tell from the serial number whether it was originally gas or diesel? Thanks for the help.


The gas models would DRINK fuel, lots of it. Especially if you are working them. I have a 3010 diesel that i can run on the disc mower all day and barely use half a tank. If it takes you over a minute to tie a bale you are probly better off letting the clutch out anyway because it will be hard on the throwout bearing holding it in that much. A syncro would be easy just to pop into nutral. I have heard of guys adding a larger resevour to the pump up in front so you have hydraulic power with the clutch pushed in. If you are not using hydraulics while tying i would think you would have enough in the factory resevor to eject the bale. A simple way to see if its been switched is to look at the fule guage and see what it says. Not always gonna be correct but most of the time.


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## Josh in WNY

I found my book, but then remembered that it was actually a website that had the best breakdown of how to read the New Generation serial numbers. After searching around for a little while, I finally found it again.

http://www.greencollectors.com/dbs/forty-twenty/dyncat.cfm?catid=277

Hope this helps.


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## FarmerCline

Thanks for the help the link is exactly what I needed.


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