# baledge with normal baler



## robert23239 (May 10, 2009)

I have a Vermeer 5410 3 years old. Was barn kept but was outside for several months last summer.

Did dry hay first two years and last year i did baledge, most alfalfa. So this year try to do some early rye grass after 15 bales busted two belts. It was probably little too wet still. Than found some wrapped hay on rollers, probably hard on the belts. So is it too hard on a normal baler to do wet silage? Was so special about the belts on a silage baler ? Or do the scrapers on the rollers help that much. The belts broke right at the seam. Can being out in the sun do much damage to the belts?

Thanks


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## mlappin (Jun 25, 2009)

New Holland silage balers use continuos belts, no splices.

Also have heavier shafts and bearings on the bottom roller.

I've done yet hay with my non silage 644 before but backed the tension off. Also made a few inch smaller than normal bale.


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## rjmoses (Apr 4, 2010)

I don't know about other balers and models, but I know I wouldn't even think of trying balege with my NH BR780A.

I stop baling when the baler jams a second time--it's my on-the-go moisture tester. When the hay gets above 20%, it jams.

Further, the bales would be way, way heavy.

Ralph


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## rajela (Feb 15, 2014)

Can my round baler handle high moisture hay? Most modern variable chamber balers (belt balers) are capable of baling wet forage into a dense package

However, special silage models are recommended because they are specifically designed to bale wet forage they have scrapers on the belts and rollers to prevent buildup of material, and they have heavy duty bearings to help handle the increase in bale weight
. Several baler manufacturers offer "silage kits"
which can be added to older balers that will enable them to handle baleage. Such kits range in price from $400 to $1500 (2012 prices) depending on brand. Consult your local equipment dealer for specific

information regarding your particular round baler brand


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## Bonfire (Oct 21, 2012)

I bale wet hay with a 566. After a couple of years, I added the silage special kit. It helps. Mine came with a new roller, scraper and deflector plates to put in the gate. It's still hard on the baler. Still material, over time, builds up on some of the rollers. Affects belt tracking. Can be stubborn starting a new bale.


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## clowers (Feb 11, 2011)

I have 604super M silage special to make baledge. I but my bale size back to about 55-58" tall. I don't normally have problems starting the bale. Just do not weave, it will wrap the augers on each side. What a mess. The more moisture you have maybe the shorter the bale due to weight. Just my simple way of doing it.


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## Bgriffin856 (Nov 13, 2013)

Tried with our 640 just wrapped up on the rollers. Not fun


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## mike10 (May 29, 2011)

rjmoses said:


> I don't know about other balers and models, but I know I wouldn't even think of trying balege with my NH BR780A.
> 
> I stop baling when the baler jams a second time--it's my on-the-go moisture tester. When the hay gets above 20%, it jams.
> 
> ...


If the BR series, non silage specials, and for that matter the prior models could not bale silage hay we would be out of the baler business. Is it as nice as baling dry hay, no, but like everything else there are tricks to the trade. The biggest problem I see with pickup plugging is when you cross a windrow and the windrow hangs in the corners. Raise the pickup up until you are square in the windrow, then let it down and go. If you are baling windrows behind a 10' or less cutter than the wide pickups on the balers can get over into the next windrow when making corners. A rake will correct that problem. On wide pickup units, add the flares to the ends of the pickup which closes off most of the pinch area. In extremely wet conditions on rare occassions hay may pinch between the starter roll and the twine arm cross tube. Remove the cross tube and use net. Sharpening the follower roll scraper and adjusting it to the follower roll will eliminate the pinching of hay in that area. I make extensions to cover the last 1/4" of the follower roll so no hay can be pinched in the corners. On 5' wide balers you must weave and be on your toes. Wet hay does not compress so if you stay to long in one position the belts are going to get loose and walk on you. Back your tension down to 800 to 1000 lbs. Make 52" bales if extremely wet and a maximum of 58" if wrapping them. There is a lot of weight in those bales. I think bales wrappers which make a continuous tube are limited to 60". You can add scrappers to the takeup arm rolls to keep them clean. Heavier top tailgate rolls and bearings are available. The last two items I have never installed but are available. It is a good idea to check the rolls for buildup and clean occasionally. If you are picking up mud wash the baler when done for the day so the mud does not harden on the rolls. It is a lot easier to get it off when soft then when it dries.


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## Dill (Nov 5, 2010)

Real hard to make silage with the Krone. You aim for the windrow and turn on the pto.

My brother makes silage with a non-silage special New Holland, about 3k bales a year. He can't go as wet as he'd like, because of the lack of scrapers, but it works.


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## Leggupfarms (Jun 30, 2014)

If you are going to do balage with the vermeer make sure the moisture is at the 40 - 50 %, I would also put the alligator clips on.


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## IH 1586 (Oct 16, 2014)

I have almost 10,000 bales through my JD 458. About 70% of them are baleage. It is not a S.S. but does have the high moisture kit. You have to watch that you don't get a lot of build up on the rolls. I have jammed it once. Not fun to dig out. The new JD 459 S.S. is a lot nicer to use.


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