# John Deere 348 Square baler Hydraulic Compressor Cylinders



## gradyjohn (Jul 17, 2012)

One of my cylinders started leaking and causing some bales to develop into banana shape. Bought parts to rebuild the cylinders ... John Deere says mine can't be rebuilt. Cannot remove a blind snap ring. John Deere wants $423.28 for a new one. That would be $846.56 to replace the pair. My baler is 25 years old on Oct 11.


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## deadmoose (Oct 30, 2011)

Happy birthday in advance to your baler.


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## deadmoose (Oct 30, 2011)

Someone else has gotta supply parts.


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## Vol (Jul 5, 2009)

gradyjohn said:


> One of my cylinders started leaking and causing some bales to develop into banana shape. Bought parts to rebuild the cylinders ... John Deere says mine can't be rebuilt. Cannot remove a blind snap ring. John Deere wants $423.28 for a new one. That would be $846.56 to replace the pair. My baler is 25 years old on Oct 11.


Too high....take it to a machinist and present a challenge from JD. I would not buy 2 cylinders as the other cylinder may last and last if that is the chosen route.

Regards, Mike


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## 8350HiTech (Jul 26, 2013)

Any decent hydraulic/machine shop should be able to overcome that somehow. And for a lot less money.


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## gradyjohn (Jul 17, 2012)

deadmoose said:


> Someone else has gotta supply parts.


http://www.tractorpartsasap.com/ Has rebuilt for $300 ea.


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## ARD Farm (Jul 12, 2012)

Brake fluid cures a lot of issues in a pinch. I've done that more than once. While it's not a permanent fix, it works well temporarly by swelling the 'o' rings.

Leave it to JD for planned obsolesence.


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## gradyjohn (Jul 17, 2012)

ARD Farm said:


> Brake fluid cures a lot of issues in a pinch. I've done that more than once. While it's not a permanent fix, it works well temporarly by swelling the 'o' rings.
> 
> Leave it to JD for planned obsolesence.


They now have HC's that can be rebuilt. Funny ... if you want a new cylinder rod you can't get it either. Thinking about air or back to crank and spring.


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## Tx Jim (Jun 30, 2014)

Does your old cylinder have any numbers on it? You might try this place for a rebuilt cyl.

http://www.fastline.com/v100/Bale-Compresssion-Cylinder,-Remanufactured,-John-Deere,-AE14824,-AE71196-part-detail-6a6244fa-fd0b-4cc6-8f3a-220681932333.aspxt.

I have never understood how applying more or less pressure to one side or the other on the bale case extensions(parts keys 3 & 21) that are solidly hinged on about 5-6 inch wide hinge points that apply pressure to the center of a already formed bale can cause a banana shaped bale. I was taught banana shaped bales are caused from type of windrow,ground speed,feeding of hay into baler or feeder finger adjustment problems


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## slowzuki (Mar 8, 2011)

Yeah, it doesn't really matter. People like to play with it though. What matters is putting the hay evenly in both sides of the chamber at the front.



Tx Jim said:


> I have never understood how applying more or less pressure to one side or the other on the bale case extensions(parts keys 3 & 21) that are solidly hinged on about 5-6 inch wide hinge points that apply pressure to the center of a already formed bale can cause a banana shaped bale.


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## gradyjohn (Jul 17, 2012)

Tx Jim said:


> Does your old cylinder have any numbers on it? You might try this place for a rebuilt cyl.
> http://www.fastline.com/v100/Bale-Compresssion-Cylinder,-Remanufactured,-John-Deere,-AE14824,-AE71196-part-detail-6a6244fa-fd0b-4cc6-8f3a-220681932333.aspxt.
> 
> I have never understood how applying more or less pressure to one side or the other on the bale case extensions(parts keys 3 & 21) that are solidly hinged on about 5-6 inch wide hinge points that apply pressure to the center of a already formed bale can cause a banana shaped bale. I was taught banana shaped bales are caused from type of windrow,ground speed,feeding of hay into baler or feeder finger adjustment problems


Couldn't get the fastline link to work.


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## Tx Jim (Jun 30, 2014)

gradyjohn said:


> Couldn't get the fastline link to work.


Sorry I'm not very computer savvy but I'll try this but cylinder is the same price as this one http://www.tractorpartsasap.com/


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## gradyjohn (Jul 17, 2012)

Tx Jim said:


> Sorry I'm not very computer savvy but I'll try this but cylinder is the same price as this one http://www.tractorpartsasap.com/


You did good. $600 better than 8+. Found crank and spring set for $100. That would cost about [email protected] Deere.


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## 8350HiTech (Jul 26, 2013)

gradyjohn said:


> You did good. $600 better than 8+. Found crank and spring set for $100. That would cost about [email protected] Deere.


If you're seriously considering going away from the hyd system, I'd closely look at air. You could build one for not much more than that used spring set.


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## gradyjohn (Jul 17, 2012)

8350HiTech said:


> If you're seriously considering going away from the hyd system, I'd closely look at air. You could build one for not much more than that used spring set.


Really! Not sure I know how to do that. I have seen one you can buy for about 745. Any ideas would be appreciated.


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## Tx Jim (Jun 30, 2014)

gradyjohn said:


> You did good. $600 better than 8+. Found crank and spring set for $100. That would cost about [email protected] Deere.


Too my way of thinking I personally don't like JD's hyd tension set up plus how many times per day/week does one alter the adjustment on the bale weight.? Cranks work fine to adjust weight for me.


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## 6125 (Sep 14, 2009)

I'd throw a set of springs on it and be done with it. Never cared for the hyd. tension on the deere. The spring is nice after a while as you automatically know where to be for what weight you want depending on type of material and moisture content.

If you stay below 55-60lb bales, the lighter springs are just right. Any heavier weights desired though, and i'd deffinately go to the heavier springs.


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## Tx Jim (Jun 30, 2014)

6125 said:


> Any heavier weights desired though, and i'd deffinately go to the heavier springs.


BOY I'm confused! What heavier springs are you referring to? JD has use 247SE for bale tension springs from models 224-348 with no substitute PN


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## 6125 (Sep 14, 2009)

Tx Jim said:


> BOY I'm confused! What heavier springs are you referring to? JD has use 247SE for bale tension springs from models 224-348 with no substitute PN


Springs that come standard on say a 336 are "lighter" duty springs. I'm gonna guess that maybe they were also used on the 337, 327, 338 also, but not sure. Neighbor uses them on his 348 and is still able to make 50 lb. straw bales with them. Claims the heavier springs change weight too drastically with the slightest movement of adjustment. Says he can fine-tune the bale weights better with the lighter duty springs.


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## Tx Jim (Jun 30, 2014)

6125 said:


> Springs that come standard on say a 336 are "lighter" duty springs. I'm gonna guess that maybe they were also used on the 337, 327, 338 also, but not sure. Neighbor uses them on his 348 and is still able to make 50 lb. straw bales with them. Claims the heavier springs change weight too drastically with the slightest movement of adjustment. Says he can fine-tune the bale weights better with the lighter duty springs.


1st I wasn't thinking of the springs for the lighter duty JD sq balers as this thread & my mind was about a 348. 2nd IMHO I think it's a waste of time & money to install 336/337 springs on a 348 when a simple few CCW revolutions of the cranks on the rear of baler will accomplish baling a 50# bale IE the same as lighter springs. Oh well to each their own!


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## 6125 (Sep 14, 2009)

Tx Jim said:


> 1st I wasn't thinking of the springs for the lighter duty JD sq balers as this thread & my mind was about a 348. 2nd IMHO I think it's a waste of time & money to install 336/337 springs on a 348 when a simple few CCW revolutions of the cranks on the rear of baler will accomplish baling a 50# bale IE the same as lighter springs. Oh well to each their own!


Yeah but here's his problem. As the daylight goes away and the dampness/dew starts rolling in, conditions change literally every couple of minutes. What was happening was a couple turns loose on the heavy springs in alfalfa was going from maybe 60 lbs. to 40 lbs., which was a pita. Sort of like a tractor thats geared too slow in one gear and the next gear in line goes too fast. With the lighter springs, a couple turns loose made only a difference of 5-10 lbs. and was much more "forgiving" so to speak. Anyways that's why he did it and for his application it's the way to go.

Heck living in dryland Texas, i'd think one could set the rate and leave it alone for the remainder of the machine's life? But I'm gonna guess it's not quite that easy.


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## Tx Jim (Jun 30, 2014)

I doubt if 2 turns will lower the bale weight by 50%% in Alfalfa, it sure won't in dry Texas on grass hay. I still think adjusting the cranks is not that big of a deal but oh well!


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## gradyjohn (Jul 17, 2012)

6125 said:


> Yeah but here's his problem. As the daylight goes away and the dampness/dew starts rolling in, conditions change literally every couple of minutes. What was happening was a couple turns loose on the heavy springs in alfalfa was going from maybe 60 lbs. to 40 lbs., which was a pita. Sort of like a tractor thats geared too slow in one gear and the next gear in line goes too fast. With the lighter springs, a couple turns loose made only a difference of 5-10 lbs. and was much more "forgiving" so to speak. Anyways that's why he did it and for his application it's the way to go.
> 
> Heck living in dryland Texas, i'd think one could set the rate and leave it alone for the remainder of the machine's life? But I'm gonna guess it's not quite that easy.


Checking the JDParts is appears that the lighter springs attach different and the bottom. If I decide to do springs I will make sure they are the right ones. All current models have the same part #. Anybody made an air system from scratch?


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## 8350HiTech (Jul 26, 2013)

gradyjohn said:


> Checking the JDParts is appears that the lighter springs attach different and the bottom. If I decide to do springs I will make sure they are the right ones. All current models have the same part #. Anybody made an air system from scratch?


There are some threads here about people having built them. Somewhere in the archive...


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## 8350HiTech (Jul 26, 2013)

This should be the thread you need, though the pictures aren't working. (Not for me, anyway) There are more threads, just type "airbaler" in the search box.

http://www.haytalk.com/forums/topic/12468-airbaler-bale-density-controller/?fromsearch=1


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## Tx Jim (Jun 30, 2014)

I'm curious how this air bag system senses how much air to apply to keep a consistent bale weight as it advertises. Plus if air bag only applies pressure in the center of formed bale how can the people that think tightening/loosening one crank or the other can adjust for a banana shaped bale???


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## Tx Jim (Jun 30, 2014)

I forgot to include photo


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## cmd (Oct 26, 2012)

How do you keep strings on a 50lb straw bale? Four foot long bale? I will break strings in straw if I have to much tension.


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## ARD Farm (Jul 12, 2012)

I don't get the air bag system (I have seen them before) but air is compressable, hydraulic oil isn't. I don'r see how they can work or be better than hydraulics. You still need an on board air source, compressor and storage tankl, all adding up to more complex.

Personally speaking, it's hydraulic or spring and crank for me.


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## 6125 (Sep 14, 2009)

cmd said:


> How do you keep strings on a 50lb straw bale? Four foot long bale? I will break strings in straw if I have to much tension.


38-40 inches long to go in a bandit. This is oat straw so it packs a bit more dense than wheat straw. 210 lb. twine and knock on wood we haven't had any trouble as long as it has healthy knots.


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## Tx Jim (Jun 30, 2014)

ARD Farm said:


> I don't get the air bag system (I have seen them before) but air is compressable, hydraulic oil isn't. I don'r see how they can work or be better than hydraulics. You still need an on board air source, compressor and storage tankl, all adding up to more complex.
> 
> Personally speaking, it's hydraulic or spring and crank for me.
> 
> The air system advertisement stated it required an air tank provided with kit plus could have the option of a pump. Several rd baler models utilized air for bale tension.


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