# 466 John Deere Round Baler



## Bruce Hopf (Jun 29, 2016)

I'm serously thinking of purchasing a 466 John Deere, round baler. It has Net Wrap. Anyone that can give me, some input, or advice, on this baler, would be greatly, appreciated. Thanks in advance. Bruce.


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## Tx Jim (Jun 30, 2014)

If the baler you're looking at has Mega-wide pickup attachment then "Run Forest Run". The JD 466 M-W PU baler I bought new after several thousand bales would break the feeder forks IE very poor design. The broken in the field feeder forks resemble antler sheds when found in tires. 467/567 & later balers have a much better designed MW PU.


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## Bruce Hopf (Jun 29, 2016)

Thank you, for the advice. It does ha e a wide pickup, on it. Going in the morning, to have a look at it, a d go, from there. I


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## Lostin55 (Sep 21, 2013)

I would heed the above advice and skip that one


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## Tx Jim (Jun 30, 2014)

After baling a few thousand bales especially in sandy soil the crankshaft will suffer enough wear that feeder fork(parts keys 1-3) break off from being too loose leaving the forks deposited around the field. Some people buy 466's cheap and then install better designed pick attachment with rotors from a later model salvage baler


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## Bruce Hopf (Jun 29, 2016)

Tx Jim, the information I have on this baler, it doesn't have, the Mega Wide Pickup, the pickup is the same width, of the baler, itself. Other than the issues you had, with the pickup, did you have any other problems, with the baler? Thanks again, for your advice.


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## Tx Jim (Jun 30, 2014)

Bruce

Sorry I thought you stated earlier it had MW PU. As far as I remember the PU forks were the only problem area.

Jim


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## swmnhay (Jun 13, 2008)

I've always heard there is night and day difference from a x66 and a x67 baler.Just yesterday a customer stopped to swap out some 64" net for 67" because he was trading his 535 for a 567.He was looking at a 566 also and the salesman told him he didn't want that.Called it a glorified 535.


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## Tx Jim (Jun 30, 2014)

I have very little 1st hand experience on 5 ft wide balers as very few are utilized to bale hay where I live. My 467 MW PU with rotors is night & day ahead of the 466 MW PU it replaced. Both 467's I've owned have baled over 50,000 combined bales.


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## Bruce Hopf (Jun 29, 2016)

Went to look at the Baler, was in really good shape, a d brought it home. All I have to do now, is make a wife harness, from the battery, of the tractor, to plug the Monitor in. 
There is a 3 pronged plug, I got at the dealer, I have to splice into, and run it down to the battery. Would anyone have a wire diagram, and be able to tell me, which wire, goes, to where? Thanks in advance.


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## Bruce Hopf (Jun 29, 2016)

Tx Jim said:


> Bruce
> Sorry I thought you stated earlier it had MW PU. As far as I remember the PU forks were the only problem area.
> Jim


Not a problem Jim. To be honest, when I first posted this, I didn't know the difference, between a normal pickup, or a Mega Wide, till last night, when I talked with my Cousin, on the phone, about this baler, and the difference, between the 2 pickups.


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## Tx Jim (Jun 30, 2014)

Terminal 1 is power with red wire

Terminal 2 is open

Terminal 3 is ground with black wire

I attached my extra convenience outlet straight to tractor battery utilizing a 20 amp circuit breaker


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## Bruce Hopf (Jun 29, 2016)

Thanks again Jim. That's what I was planning on doing, as well, with an in line breaker, under the dash, of my tractor, but I wanted to make sure, where what wire, went to what, LOL. My old 270 White, has nothing in the cab, yet, to plug something like this into.


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## Tx Jim (Jun 30, 2014)

Bruce

You're welcome

Jim


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## Bruce Hopf (Jun 29, 2016)

OK, finally got the Baler, all hooked up to the tractor, welded up a nice mounting bracket, to install the monitor to, got all the wire harness routed through the tractor, and a plug wired to the battery, of the tractor. Have power, going to the pug, but can't get the monitor, to work. Went over everything, a bunch of times, went on line, for trouble shooting, to see what was goimg on, as when I picked the Baler up, at the dealership, the forgot to give me, the operators manual.
I couldn't find any thing in there, for trouble shooting, so I scrolled down to the Service Baler section. In there, I found Replacing Monìtor Fuses, and Relays, but it fails, tp show, or tell you, how to change, the fuse, or relay, inside the monitor.
How does one, go about, changing the Fuze, or relays, inside the monitor? Thanks in advance.


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## rajela (Feb 15, 2014)

How far are you from a dealer or do you have a neighbor that has a JD baler. You can take the monitor to the dealer and have them plug it up and see if it come on.


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## Tx Jim (Jun 30, 2014)

One must remove screws & disassemble monitor to check fuse(parts key 14). Are you positive you have battery polarity correct to monitor?

57M7146

Fuse - FUSE, BLADE LIGHTGREEN 30 A

0.88 USD


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## Bruce Hopf (Jun 29, 2016)

Not sure, if this makes a difference, or not, but it looks like, my tractor, has Two Batteries, in it, 2 - 6 volt batteries, would that make a difference?


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## Bruce Hopf (Jun 29, 2016)

Called the dealer, and they told me, to wire up the monitor, to the starter, of the tractor. Goimg to give that, a try, and hope that works. Thanks again, for all the help.


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## Tx Jim (Jun 30, 2014)

Yes monitor requires 12 volts so attaching to top post on starter solenoid is correct.


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## Bruce Hopf (Jun 29, 2016)

OK, update on the situation. Wired everything to the starter, same as before, monitor not working still. Called the dealer, was about to take the monitor in, to have it, checked out. 
While I was on the phone, with the Sales Rep, he asked me, about the plug, what colour the wires, we're on the plug, I had wired into the tractor. I told him, one red, one orange, and one black. 
He told me, to hook the red, and orange wire together, and see if that helps. He also told me, the orange wire, was wired up, to the Ignition key, in the new John Deere tractors, so I did what he suggested, and everything worked, no problems. My next step, I'm going to hook up, the orange wire, to the Ignitionext key, of my tractor.
He came over today, to help me out, and setting up, the Baler, net wrapper, and baled one bale of hay, as it was too tough, to bale. He had the bale wrap roll, in backwards, as his baler, is a lot newer, then my 2000 model, got that sorted out.
Then we had issues, with it cutting the net, discovered the Altinator on my tractor, wasn't putting out enough charge, but we hooked up my pickup, to help boost the power, for the knife to cut properly. 
The bale size, was not as high, as we had set the monitor at, so he made adjustments, to the Baler, to zero the bale size in.
After he left, I ripped out the Altanator, took it into Napa, and swapped it out, for a New one, and installed it, this evening, and that one, sure charges, better than the old one. So I hope, that takes care of that issue, of poor cutting. Thanks again, for all the help, a d advice, I really appreciate it.


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## Tx Jim (Jun 30, 2014)

Thanks for update and I'm glad your making progress. I don't remember older netwrap rolls being installed in the reverse of newer models. I think dealer rep just made a mistake and installed roll of net in backwards BUT it was a good learning experience for you not to install roll backwards. Having correct voltage to monitor is very important for correct netwrap operation. Last evening I had that same discussion with my neighbor who is experiencing minor netwrap problems with his 469.

IMHO attaching through ign switch In lieu of wiring outlet straight to starter solenoid is asking for a voltage drop on older tractors with older wiring harnesses.

Jim


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## Bruce Hopf (Jun 29, 2016)

By the sounds of what your saying Jim, if it isn't broke, don't fix it. Think I'll just leave it, the way it is, just like your saying. Don't want to show up to the field, or a Customer's field, and the thing not work right. That's embarrassing, when you have a break down, or something not work right. Thanks again Jim, for all of your help, and advice. I greatly appreciate it.


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## Tx Jim (Jun 30, 2014)

You're welcome.

Only drawback to not wiring through ign switch is IIRC older monitors such as 466 doesn't automatically turn off similar to my 467 monitor so one might forget to turn monitor off at the end of baling.

Jim


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## Bruce Hopf (Jun 29, 2016)

The way I have my monitor in my tractor, is right dead Centre, of the cab, just behind the steering wheel, so I don't think forgetting to turn through monitor off, will be an issue. I have bigger problems with my 674 International tractor, remembering to turn the lights off of the thing, when I park it I the yard, from running it on the roads, to where I have to go, and rake the hay, or bring home, the bales, on the trailer. I park it inside my Green House, and after dark, I see the green house all lit up, then I remembered, I didn't turn the lights off. LOL.


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## Bruce Hopf (Jun 29, 2016)

One thing, I have noticed, on this baler, (standing from the back of the baler), on the Right hand side,obehid the door, so a safety shill, and being that safety shield, there are 3 drive chains, for the pickup. The third chain, furthest in, from the outside of the Baler, was Drooping down, pretty good, on the bottom of back chain drive gear. My question is, how do you tighten up the chain? D I have to remove some pulled, or shields, or shorten the chain, to get it tight? Thanks again in advance, for any help.


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## Tx Jim (Jun 30, 2014)

To remove slack from worn chain one needs to remove 2 links and install an offset link aka 1/2 link or install complete new chain.


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## Bruce Hopf (Jun 29, 2016)

OK, update, going to change the drive chains, for the pickup, the rest of the chains, look OK. I went on line, a d looked up the Manual, for the Baler, as the Manual, was missing a bunch of pages, a d the book, was covered with Mold, and I took a reaction, to the Mold.
In the Manual, I found online, it stated, the front, a d rear wheels, should be moved out wards, to make the wheels a wider stance. Just wondering, if I should be pushing my tires, out as well? Tha KS again, for all the help, and advice.


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## Tx Jim (Jun 30, 2014)

I have my tractor tires set a 5' inside to inside so as to not mash windrow. I turn my baler wheels around(valve stems on outside) from factory so tire air pressure can be more easily checked.


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## Bruce Hopf (Jun 29, 2016)

Got the rear tires moved out, today, and they are almost 5 feet apart, like you suggested. I'm going to wait, to switch the tires around, like you also suggested, earlier. 
What I need to do, is change the drive chains, on the pickup, as the one I had previously mentioned, was pretty loose, so I just figured since I'm working on one chain, might as well, do them all.they appear to be #50 chain. Please correct me, if I'm wrong.


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## Tx Jim (Jun 30, 2014)

Actually 5' wheel tread is advised for MW PU to straddle wide windrow but 5' WT will give your tractor more stability. I'd advise to also check condition of PU drive belt.

AFH208830 Roller Chain - ROLLER CHAIN, (IDLER TO REEL REGPU 30.43 USD E70675 V-Belt - V-BELT, (PICK UP) 39.19 USD


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## Bruce Hopf (Jun 29, 2016)

Is the v belt, on the Standard Wide pickup, as well, as the Mega Wide, pickup? My baler, only has the Standard pickup. I'll have a look at it, when I go out. Thanks again Jim, for all the help, and advice.


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## Tx Jim (Jun 30, 2014)

Standard pickup is only model with a V-belt drive. Wide & MW PU has chain drive with a slip-clutch.


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## Bruce Hopf (Jun 29, 2016)

OK, it's not the standard pickup, I have, then. Took the shields all of, no V belt. But there is 4, drive chains, that run everything, in the same area. The pickup looks like, it's about 5 feet wide, in width. How wide, is a Mega Wide, pickup, roughly? Thanks again. Bruce.


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## Bruce Hopf (Jun 29, 2016)

Also, when you lower than pick down, resting on the wheels, of the pickup, the teeth of the pickup, will dig into the ground. Can he wheels of the pickup be lowered, so that the teeth, of the pickup, not diG into the ground, or does one have to adjust the height of the pickup, with the crank, the you can use, to help raise, and lower, the picup? Thanks again.


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## Tx Jim (Jun 30, 2014)

Have you attempting to slide wheel attaching bolt(parts key 13) DOWN in slot on GW mounting bracket?? Yes lifting crank can be utilized as a PU minimum height limiter(stop).


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## Tx Jim (Jun 30, 2014)

Bruce Hopf said:


> OK, it's not the standard pickup, I have, then. Took the shields all of, no V belt. But there is 4, drive chains, that run everything, in the same area. The pickup looks like, it's about 5 feet wide, in width. How wide, is a Mega Wide, pickup, roughly? Thanks again. Bruce.


I haven't seen a wide pickup model. My MW PU 467 has a 5' wide PU. One difference between MW & wide pickup is MW has an additional cam(parts key 22) & rollers on RH end that wide PU doesn't have.


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## cannonball (Jun 23, 2012)

Bruce Hopf said:


> One thing, I have noticed, on this baler, (standing from the back of the baler), on the Right hand side,obehid the door, so a safety shill, and being that safety shield, there are 3 drive chains, for the pickup. The third chain, furthest in, from the outside of the Baler, was Drooping down, pretty good, on the bottom of back chain drive gear. My question is, how do you tighten up the chain? D I have to remove some pulled, or shields, or shorten the chain, to get it tight? Thanks again in advance, for any help.


The pickup chain has a tension arm to keep chain tight, spring might be broken or gone and it has a grease fitting where the arm attaches to baler that a lot of people miss it and it will freeze up not take up the slack in chain and as Jim said might need new chain...


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## Tx Jim (Jun 30, 2014)

Bruce

If you don't have an operators manual I suggest you get one & read it as OM is full of valuable information. After viewing 466 parts schematics it appears there are four chains that drive wide pickup. It appears 3rd chain from top has a tightener(parts key 24) that requires moving to tighten chain.


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## Bruce Hopf (Jun 29, 2016)

OK, update, replace all the drive chains, and got everything good, and tight. Starated the tractor, engaged the PTO, putting the baler, into gear. Took a bottle, filled with Chain Saw Bar oil (pretty stringy stuff, when applied), and oil up the chains, really good.
One thing I didn't see, when i had all the shields off, was that the extra cam parts, or rollers, like you had mentioned, and showed in the schematics, wasnt there, so im guessing, thatat means, I have the wide pickup, not the Mega Wide pickup.
I looked at the pickup wheels, and they were nothing like the one in the schematics, you had showed, but there was two holes, in the bracket, where the axel, for the tire, is bolted too, so I pulled the whole tire assembly, and moved the axel, to the other hole, on both sides of the pickup, now the pickup isn't that close to the ground, aND I set the crank, so it's in the Centre of the slot, so the pickup can float, if I happen to hit a stone, or ground hog hole. 
I called the dealer today, and asked the sales rep, if he had ordered the Manual, for the Baler, a d he said he forgot to order it, but was goimg to order one, for the Baler, today.


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## Bruce Hopf (Jun 29, 2016)

cannonball said:


> The pickup chain has a tension arm to keep chain tight, spring might be broken or gone and it has a grease fitting where the arm attaches to baler that a lot of people miss it and it will freeze up not take up the slack in chain and as Jim said might need new chain...


The chain you had mentioned, everything was OK, spring was tight, tenting arm, in good shape, but the chain I was talking about, was the chain, behind that one, was the chain, that was sagging. I put a new drive chain there too, and got it to tighten up, as well. Thank you, for all your help, a d advice, as well. I do greatly appreciate it.


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## Tx Jim (Jun 30, 2014)

Bruce

I incorrectly posted photo of MW PU.gauge wheel as you stated wide PU has different gauge wheel assembly as shown below.


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## Bruce Hopf (Jun 29, 2016)

Tx Jim said:


> Bruce
> I incorrectly posted photo of MW PU.gauge wheel as you stated wide PU has different gauge wheel assembly as shown below.


Not a problem Jim. This is the one, i have, on my baler. At least it helps, to put my mind better at ease, knowing I have the Wide pickup, instead of the Mega Wide pickup. If the baler had the Mega Wide, I would have taken your advice, and taken the baler, back to the dealer, as I didn't want to go through the headaches, as you had stated, when I first had posted this thread, with the baler, yiu had. Thank you so much Jim, for all the help, and advice, you have given me, on this baler. I greatly appreciate it.


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## Tx Jim (Jun 30, 2014)

If I'm viewing parts catalog correctly your baler with wide PU will have these feeder fingers that gave me so much grief that I traded 466 for a 467. The feeder fingers if present can easily be viewed from rear of your baler when tailgate is "locked open". The crankshaft is located under PU for sand to grind away at plastic brg locations. After enough metal gets worn off crankshaft fingers begin to contact pickup frame breaking finger attaching bolts leaving finger assembly scattered around fields similar to antler sheds. I hope you have better luck with your 466 than I did with mine.


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## Bruce Hopf (Jun 29, 2016)

I lifted the tail gate, today, and took some pictures, of the feeder fingers. Are these what you had in your 466, or are these, the Updateed version, of feeder fingers? Thanks again, Jim. I really appreciate, all the help.


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## Tx Jim (Jun 30, 2014)

Those feeder fingers resemble the type I learned to HATE. As far as I know the only update is to remove 466 wide PU and install a new or used 467 or 468 MW PU


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## Bruce Hopf (Jun 29, 2016)

If I go that route, there is a farm equipment wrecker, and I'm sure, the last time I was there, 2 weeks ago, they had a burnt up 467 there. Apparently the bearings in the one roller, went, and caught the belts, on fire. Or do you think, there would be too much heat damage, to go that way?


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## Tx Jim (Jun 30, 2014)

BTDT on burning a baler from a faulty brg back in the mid 90's. One thing about rd balers I've noticed is all brands(colors) can catch fire & BURN. Yes salvage baler pickup attachment is what I was referring to. How many bales a yr do you expect to bale? Back when I owned the 466 I was baling 5000-6000 per yr.


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## Bruce Hopf (Jun 29, 2016)

Was thinking, around 1000, maybe 2000 bales a year. But it could be more, as I'm planning on doing custom baling, as well, as my own.


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## Bruce Hopf (Jun 29, 2016)

I also was wondering, what model. Of baler, is equipped, with the Crop Chopper, and also wondering, if it would possible fit, the 466, along with a Mega Wide pickup, let's say, out of a 467.


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## Tx Jim (Jun 30, 2014)

Are you referring to the scraper knife for the starter roll?


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## Bruce Hopf (Jun 29, 2016)

I've heard of balers with Crop Choppers in them, for doing hay, I was wondering, if I went that route, of putting in a newer pickup, from let's say, a 467, and if I could get it, with a crop chopper as well, wondering if it would fit, my 466, or is the starter roll, where the knives are attached?


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## Tx Jim (Jun 30, 2014)

I can't locate crop chopper in JD rd baler parts catalog


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## r82230 (Mar 1, 2016)

Bruce Hopf said:


> I've heard of balers with Crop Choppers in them, for doing hay, I was wondering, if I went that route, of putting in a newer pickup, from let's say, a 467, and if I could get it, with a crop chopper as well, wondering if it would fit, my 466, or is the starter roll, where the knives are attached?


Seen crop chopper in NH, but not JD in my area, our area might be different.

Larry


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## Bruce Hopf (Jun 29, 2016)

How about Pre Cut Knives? Or crop processor?


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## Tx Jim (Jun 30, 2014)

I think pre-cut knives are not offered on a JD 466 rd baler. Cutter knives are offered on models 960 & 990 rd balers.


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## Bruce Hopf (Jun 29, 2016)

Went on line, for the Manual, for this baler, to find out, how to reset the Bale Diameter Sensor. It said to lock the gate, in place, and then to raise, the belt tenton arms, until the calibration hole, in the tention arm, is centered, in the access hole, in the baler. 
I have done, what it says, but the hole, in the belt tenton arms, is slightly lower, than dead center, of the access hole, in the baler. How does a person, go about getting the 2 holes, to lign up, centered, or is it important, to have it dead centre, to set the bale size sensor? Thanks again, for all of the help, a d advice.


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## Tx Jim (Jun 30, 2014)

It's my guess that belts have been relaced and belts are too short for tension arm inside baler to travel designed height. You could attempt setting bale size sensor "by sound on monitor"(channel 05)


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## Bruce Hopf (Jun 29, 2016)

Tx Jim said:


> It's my guess that belts have been relaced and belts are too short for tension arm inside baler to travel designed height. You could attempt setting bale size sensor "by sound on monitor"(channel 05)


Took a few tries, for me to get things adjusted, on channel 5, sounded the alarm, screen read 208, followed the instructions, that I found on line, by closing the tention arms, and raised them back up, screen read 205, resulting adjusted the sensor, again, closed the tention arms, raised them again, screen read, 212, resulting adjusted the sensor, closed the the tention arms again, raised the tention arms again, alarm sounded, and screen read, 208, again, and raised, and lowered the tention arms, a few more times, and came back, with the same results, alarm sounding, and screen reading 208, each and every time. Than you again Jim, for all of your help, and advice. I geatly appreciate it.


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## Tx Jim (Jun 30, 2014)

Bruce

You're welcome. I'm glad I could assist you. I hope you have better service from your 466 than I did with mine.

Jim


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## Bruce Hopf (Jun 29, 2016)

Last week, I went by a New Holland Dealership, they had a couple John Deere balers in there, one was a 467, and I can't remember, what the other one was, but I studied the pickup, in the 467, and I noticed the difference, between it's pickup, and the one I have in mine.
When I bought my baler, they were asking almost $13,000.00, for it, and it has 27700 bales on it, since new, in 2000. I got it, for $9,800.00, plenty of wiggle room, to do a few upgrades, on the baler, such as put in a decent pickup, out of a 467, but that's going to be a job I do, a little down the road, maybe during this winter, or in the spring, as well,as,look for, a Crop Processor, crop chopper, as I know my cousin, out in Alberta, has a 467, with a crop processor, or crop chopper and his baler does 5 X 6's.


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## Tx Jim (Jun 30, 2014)

Bruce

A JD 467 makes a 4X6 not 5X6 bale.


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## Bruce Hopf (Jun 29, 2016)

Went to the Dealership, and today, and picked up the Manual, for my Baler, and the 2 idler bearings, that run against the belts, of the rear of the baler, controls the sensors, on each side, of the baler, and installed them today, as well. The old ones, were pretty sloppy, and almost fell apart, in my hands. LOL. Thanks again Jim, for all of your help.


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## Tx Jim (Jun 30, 2014)

Bruce

You're welcome

Jim


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## Bruce Hopf (Jun 29, 2016)

Well today, I tried bale straw, and everything worked well, till it was time, to wrap the bale. As soon as the Net Wrap, started, the warning light came on, for Low Battery, on the monitor, so I shut the PTO off, went to check to see inside, behind the belts, and the bale was wrapped, so I opened the baler up, and dumped the bale. 
Wanted to see, how close to 5 feet, the bale was, it was perfect, but the net wrap, didn't cut, so I cut the net wrap, with my Jack Knife. Went back to the tractor, and noticed, my Volt Meter, on the dash was low, and the low battery indicator, was still on, the Monitor.
So I packed up the baler, and went home, as I was at a neighbors place, ripped out the Altinator, that I had put in, almost a month ago. The Altinator, was that HOT, I had to wear Welding Gloves, to remove it. I took it back, it NAPA, where I got it, a d they exchanged it, no problems.
It was a half an hour later, after I removed it, a d standing at the Parts Counter, the guy went to grab it, to put the old Altinator, in the box, the new one, came out of, and he quickly, let it go, it was still that warm.
When I got back home, i installed the new Altinator, and proceeded, to remove the left over net rap, from the bale, that was still under the belts. I couldn't pull it out, so I opened up, the Baler, to see what was going on, and there was a ball of net wrap, inside the Baler, so I was able, to get it all pulled out then.
After I closed the baler, I got checking things out, then I had noticed, the brake shoe, for the net wrap, was almost 2 inches, away, from other belt pulley. I couldn't figure out why, until I looked under neith, and noticed, that the knife, for the net wrap, was way back, so I turned on the monitor, read in the Manual, about channel 10, and pressed the extend, and retract buttons, and the knife, was in Home Position, and the brake shoe, was against the belt pulley.
So I figured, I was all set to go. Went back to the field, baled another bale, and as soon as the Net Wrap kicked in, the indicator, for the low battery came back on, and back to the same, as before, knife was way aback, away from the net wrap, the brake shoe, away from the belt pull, repeated what I did, to get the knife, back to home position, and once again, the Altinator, was that HOT, I couldn't put my hand on it, so on the way home, I noticed the battery was charging, so I figured, the batteries, must have a Dead Cell in it, so tomorrow, going to install, a couple new batteries, and hope that helps, with the electrical issues, I'm having, with the baler.


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## Tx Jim (Jun 30, 2014)

Low voltage to monitor will cause weird things to happen. My neighbor that just purchased a used 467 is having a difficult time getting this simple fact into his HARD HEAD.


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## Bruce Hopf (Jun 29, 2016)

Funny thing, even going down the road, with the flashers, and the lights on the tractor, the baler monitor off, it would drain, the power down, as well. Took the batteries out, and ģoing to get them load tested, and see if it's the batteries, or I have to hunt, for a Dead Short, some place. 
Called the dealer, where I bought my tractor, a White 2-70 Field Boss, from, yesterday, about the batteries, to find out, when they were put in. Turns out, they were put in, in January, so they are covered, under Warranty. 
Dealer swore up and down, on the phone, that the issues I'm having, was not the batteries, but a dead short some place, in the tractor, or the baler. 
I tried telling him, that 3 weeks ago, I was baLing hay, and never had an issue, with either the baler, or tractor, when I was baling, up until yesterday, when I was trying to bale. Finally I asked him, if they had the outfit, to Load Test, the batteries, he said "yes", and I told him, I was bringing them in, as I had them already removed from the tractor, and loaded in the back of the van, to bring in, and we would go from there, instead of putting the batteries back in, the tractor, like he suggested me to do, as they are a Right Royal, pain in the Butt, to install, as they go under the floor, of the Cab, of the tractor, one on each side, and I wanted to rule out, the Batteries first, and go from there, to find out, what the problem was, to why I was having these issues.


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## r82230 (Mar 1, 2016)

Bruce,

Just a guess, but I would doubt the round baler would have a short, BECAUSE most of them have a fuse (30-40 amp), in their wiring hardness, close to where you attach to battery. Doesn't mean you possibly do not have a short somewhere else in the system. An easy check would be hook to another tractor if possible, ruling out baler as the problem / victim. IMHO

Larry


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## Tx Jim (Jun 30, 2014)

Bruce

I seriously doubt a JD rd baler monitor &/or baler will have enough draw when being transported down road to affect battery voltage. Simple test would be to disconnect monitor from tractor electrical circuit while traveling.

Jim


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## Bruce Hopf (Jun 29, 2016)

I took the batteries into the dealer, where I bought my tractor, and they had to hook up a charger, to each of the batteries, and going to leave them over night, on charge, and give them, a load test, in the morning, and we'll go, from there. 
Didn't make any sense to me, to blame the baler, expecially, going down the road, with the Monitor, turned off, with the flasher lights, and the batteries, still drawing that much current, that when I touched the Altinator, even the new one I installed yesterday, was that HOT, I couldn't place my hand, on it. 
Also, when I got home, and turned the lights off, the volt meter in the dash of the tractor, read 13 volts, while driving around in the yard, and parking the tractor, I left it idle, as I was getting things ready, for an oil change, and when I went to shut the tractor off, it still read 13 volts, on the volt meter. 
If the batteries were being charged, by the Altinator, why would they have to put the batteries, on charge, to charge them back up, as the chargers showed, they needed to be charged, after I had removed the batteries, while the oil, was draining. Nothing was hooked up to them, last night, while they were loaded, inside the back, of my Van. Nothing was draining the batteries. 
That's what doesn't make, any sense, to me, other than the batteries, are done, or at least one of them, and they won't hold a suffecient charge, to run the lights, while on the road, or run the baler, either.


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## Bruce Hopf (Jun 29, 2016)

r82230 said:


> Bruce,
> 
> Just a guess, but I would doubt the round baler would have a short, BECAUSE most of them have a fuse (30-40 amp), in their wiring hardness, close to where you attach to battery. Doesn't mean you possibly do not have a short somewhere else in the system. An easy check would be hook to another tractor if possible, ruling out baler as the problem / victim. IMHO
> 
> Larry


I even put in an additional In line Breaker, as well, with a 30 amp breaker, like Jim instructed me to do so, when I first posted, about this baler. 3 weeks ago, while Baling Hay, I never had an issue. Now all of a sudden, I'm having all kinds of issues.


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## Bruce Hopf (Jun 29, 2016)

Tx Jim said:


> Bruce
> I seriously doubt a JD rd baler monitor &/or baler will have enough draw when being transported down road to affect battery voltage. Simple test would be to disconnect monitor from tractor electrical circuit while traveling.
> Jim


I agree with you Jim, 110%, but the dealer this morning, tried to insist, that the batteries, being installed 8 months ago, were not, the cause of the problem. I seen batteries, a week old, cause issues, before, and that was back in the day, i had put 4 batteries, in the transport trucks, I owned. We'll find out, in the morning, what's going on, with them.


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## mike10 (May 29, 2011)

You may have a bad battery cable. For an alternator to get that hot usually is an indication it is overcharging. If the issue persists after the batteries are reinstalled then you need to get a volt meter and check at the alternator what voltage the alternator is putting out. Don't depend on the tractors meter. I don't know about the JD monitor, but I would believe it should be possible to check voltage at the monitor using the monitor. Jim should know if it is possible.

If one of the battery cables is bad the batteries will not get charged but the alternator will continue to charge. A bad ground will cause an alternator to overcharge.


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## Bruce Hopf (Jun 29, 2016)

On my monitor, there is a warning light, that has a picture of a battery, that lights up, when the batteries, are low. I first ran into that issue, when I first started running, my baler. I swapped out the old Altinator, for a new one, right away, I was putting out, 13/14 volts, of power, amd dint have any more issues, with running the baler.
Tuesday, was a whole different story, when i tried to bale Straw. I swapped out Altinators again, as the other one, went, and still had issues, trying to run the lights, going down the road, and then, trying to run, the baler
Before I put in the batteries, weither it's new batteries, or the same ones, i took back, to the dealer, I'm going to rip open every connection, from the Altinator, to the batteries, to tbe starter, all the ground cables, at the frame, of the tractor, and polish everything up, with the air die grinder, with the brilow pad addaptor, and brilow pad.
Then I'm going to clean, all the mounting bolts, with the wire brush, mounted on my bench grinder, and get some electrical grease, and grease all of the conections. If that fails, not sure, where to turn,,after that.,LOL. Newer tractor, maybe a John Deere, 4430?
I'm sure, with all of the guidense I'm finding here, I'll get This matter, resolved. Thanks again, for everyone's, input, so far.


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## Tx Jim (Jun 30, 2014)

Mike is correct on possibly bad battery cable. IIRC I've also seen batteries pass load test but still be bad. I had a battery not too long ago that showed 12.2 volts but wouldn't start a vehicle or accept charge from a battery charger. Battery voltage check channel on ed baler monitor should be channel 15. With monitor on channel 15 manually operate twine arm switch when twine actuator reaches full travel voltage should drop no lower than 9.7 volts.

Caution: hold twine key down 5 seconds or less after actuator has reached full travel(stalls out) or actuator could be damaged.

What is battery BCI number on your tractor?


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## Bruce Hopf (Jun 29, 2016)

Tx Jim said:


> Mike is correct on possibly bad battery cable. IIRC I've also seen batteries pass load test but still be bad. I had a battery not too long ago that showed 12.2 volts but wouldn't start a vehicle or accept charge from a battery charger. Battery voltage check channel on ed baler monitor should be channel 15. With monitor on channel 15 manually operate twine arm switch when twine actuator reaches full travel voltage should drop no lower than 9.7 volts.
> 
> Caution: hold twine key down 5 seconds or less after actuator has reached full travel(stalls out) or actuator could be damaged.
> 
> What is battery BCI number on your tractor?


What does BCI, stand for? Sorry Jim, I never heard, of that term, before.


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## Bruce Hopf (Jun 29, 2016)

All the ground d cables, apeare to be new, as they put them on , when they put the new batteries, in the tractor. The ends, of the positive cables, are new, as well, where they are hooked up, to the batteries.


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## Tx Jim (Jun 30, 2014)

BCI group


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## swmnhay (Jun 13, 2008)

Check the battery cells if its not a sealed battery with a cell tester if one cell is bad that battery is junk.A better test IMO then a voltage test.


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## mike10 (May 29, 2011)

Bruce Hopf said:


> All the ground d cables, apeare to be new, as they put them on , when they put the new batteries, in the tractor. The ends, of the positive cables, are new, as well, where they are hooked up, to the batteries.


When you say that ends are new that is not a good sign. Replacement ends are good in an emergency but not for longevity. Crimped ends are better than the clamp on ends, but neither gives a weather tight connection and corrosion can set in. That may not be your problem now, but wait until you have the coldest day and the tractor will not start.


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## Bruce Hopf (Jun 29, 2016)

Dealer called this morning, and my batteries, were Toast. Told me, that they were covered, under Warrenty, as they had put them in the tractor, in January, so I went, and picked up, a couple new batteries. I'm going to put new ends, on the positive cables, and solder them, on the ends, of the cable. Find that better, than the crimp on one's.


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## Bruce Hopf (Jun 29, 2016)

OK, update. I installed the new batteries, but before I did that, I went over every connection, from the Altinator, to the Starter, and to the Batteries, and polished everything up, nice and shinny, put Dielectric Grease, on every connection, amd soldered new battery terminal clamps, on the positive cables, and put Dielectric Grease, on the battery terminals, as well, before installed the battery terminal clamps.
I started the tractor, reved it up, half throttle, and right away, the voltage meter in the dash, went over 14 volts. I turned on the blower, inside the cab, turned on my Road lights, amd flashers, along with my two strobe lights, i mountee on the roof, of the cab, amd stayed between 12, and 13 volts.
I haven't checked the voltage, with the monitor yet, as Jim had mentioned, earlier, but planning on doing so, tomorrow, and I'm goimg to find a Digital Volt Meter, wire it up, to the key, amd mount it, on the Dash, as well, that way, I'll know exactly, what's going on, at all times.
Thanks to everyone, that posted their suggestions, to help me find, what the cause, of the issues, I was experiencing, and the suggestions, everyone gave me, to help fix, the problem. I greatly appreciate it.


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## mike10 (May 29, 2011)

You need to take a voltmeter an check the alternator output at the alternator and see if it is the same as what the tractor is showing. The shorted batteries was probly the reason for the alternators to run hot.


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## Bruce Hopf (Jun 29, 2016)

mike10 said:


> You need to take a voltmeter an check the alternator output at the alternator and see if it is the same as what the tractor is showing. The shorted batteries was probly the reason for the alternators to run hot.


I'm going to pick one of those up, today, if I don't have one here, already. I know it was the reason, the previous Altinator failed, and this one, probably has some damage, to it, as well, from working that hard, and getting, way over heated, to try, and charge, the faulty batteries. Might have been the cause, of the original Altinator, to go, in the first place, when I first started, to balet hay, amd had to change that Altinator. Well at least, the issue has been resolved.


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## Bruce Hopf (Jun 29, 2016)

OK, bought a voltage meter today, amd tested the Altinator, amd at half throttle, on the tractor, it read 14.8, to 15.2 volts, at the aultinator, amd the volt meter in the dash of the tractor, read 13 volts. 
I set the monitor, to channel 15, like Jim had suggested, a d it read 14.8 volts. Put the twine arm into gear, a d when it went full cycle, the volt meter, on the monitor, dropped to 11.8 volts, amd when I retracted the arm, and when it went full cycle, it dropped down, to 11.8 volts, as well.
I'm still going to get a digital volt meter, amd attach it, to the dash of the tractor, a d have it wired, directly, to the Ignition switch, that way, I'll know, what is going on, at all times, with the charging system. Thanks again, for all the help, a d advice, everyone has given me, to sort out, these issues, I had been experiencing.


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## mike10 (May 29, 2011)

You are still over charging. Check the voltage at the starter post and at the positive battery cable at the battery AND at the positive battery post.

Next place one probe on the negative battery post and the other probe on a clean place on the tractor frame. You should not see more than .2 volts, two tenths of a volt.


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## Bruce Hopf (Jun 29, 2016)

I haven't had a chance, to check things out, for the charging system, on my tractor. Been too busy, replacing the Altinator, in my 1994, Dodge Ram 2500, pickup truck.
Tested the Altinator, in my truck, had no reading on it, check engine light was on, amd there was no movement, in the volt meter, in the dash of the truck, except down.
After I got it installed in the pickup, today, started the truck, volt meter started to climb, took the voltage tester, and checked the Altinator, to see, what it was putting out. It was putting out, almost 15 volts, as the Diesel engine idled, away.
Must be, that the newer Altinators are built to put out more voltages, with the newer vehicles, and equipment, for the extra lights, amd such, are being run, today.


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