# Tips for hauling/strapping tall top heavy items on trailer



## PaMike

Just bought some tall cabinet and a drill press on an internet auction. I have to pick them up next week. I never had to haul any tall top heavy items that would tip over if not secured. The cabinets are 2 ft wide, but 6 ft tall. Whats the best method of strapping? Just put the cabinet in the center of the trailer, then run a strap or two up and over? Anything I am missing?


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## 8350HiTech

I like to haul stuff like that against the headache rack on my dually. Outside of that, is there a reason you can't lay the cabinets down?


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## PaMike

Its a large auction with "pro" riggers. They have them strapped upright to pallets. I am sure they wont lay them over unless I pay them some additional fee...


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## 8350HiTech

If you trust the attachment to the pallets, just have them load them and throw two straps across. Half twist per side, of course, unless you like listening to them howl on your way home. If you don't trust the pallets, find someone else taking their items home to help you lean yours over if you help them do the same. Or rock them over yourself like you're trying to rob a soda machine


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## PaMike

hahaha..I had a buddy that would tilt a soda machine that far I thought it was going to crush him...sadly 20 years later he is still probably doing that..


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## mlappin

I hauled my bridgeport home myself, ran two straps across the base, lower the table all the way, then took another strap went under the head, wrapped around it twice then half a wrap around the strap then to the other side of the trailer and tightened it down so the top couldn't start to rock.


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## Greasy30

Take some scrap wood and build something on each side of the cabinets so it won't tip over screw down to trailer and strap.


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## azmike

I would use chains and binders over straps, bind around solid base not the moving tables.

On the interstate a couple weeks ago I saw a poor SOB with a forklift crushed through the wood deck of his flatbed trailer....ooops!


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## BWfarms

azmike said:


> I would use chains and binders over straps, bind around solid base not the moving tables.
> 
> On the interstate a couple weeks ago I saw a poor SOB with a forklift crushed through the wood deck of his flatbed trailer....ooops!


Must've over tightened the bindings 

When in doubt, throw another strap.


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## RockmartGA

One thing that I have found that works extremely well in situations where you have a large, top heavy object (like a refrigerator) is to take two straps and create a "halter". Take one strap and go around the circumference of the cabinet and loop another strap over the top and through the first strap. You can then secure the hold down straps to the first strap.

One thing to keep in mind is that you need to secure to all four sides (front, back, side to side).

Hope you can make sense of my drawing...


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## Coondle

Very good RockmartGA, that is how I cart refrigerators and the like on a trailer or flatbed.

Our transport inspectors are dynamite on correct lashing of loads. There are national standards for lashing loads, but it also uses the classic weasel words that the standards are not conclusive for every situation.

There are 6 directional forces that can come to bear on a load item during a journey.

1. Downward as gravity, but there can be a multiplier effect with any sudden upward movement of the vehicle so the deck has to be capable of carrying the object especially important if the load is concentrated on a point/s;

2. Backward, usually from inertia as the vehicle accelerates, but for large items there can be significant force from wind resistance that increases exponentially as speed increases. i.e. double your speed and the resistance is x4 (i.e. squared) but with a flat surface leading there is also drag IE the vacuum behind the object literally sucking the item backward which also increases. so if a flat to front load there needs to be very strong lashing holding the item forward.This can greatly exceed the weight of the load depending on the frontal area and speed:

3. Sideways (each way) from centrifugal force as the vehicle turns left or right but also as one side is bumped up or down (swaying) or sidewinds.

4. Forward as the vehicle encounters a down grade and a greater force from deceleration when the vehicle brakes. This can for an accidental stop exceed the weight of the load. Everyone knows the g forces from stopping;

5. Upward when a bump is encountered. Everyone has had a load leave and land again when going over a bump.

That is only 5 forces you say, but no number 3 is in fact referring to two force directions, left and right.

Lashing as Rockmart GA has set out in his diagram addresses all 6 forces provided the lashings are strong enough. For a very high load it may be necessary to apply another binding low down on the item and secured as the upper one is in the diagram. This is to stop the base of the load moving independently of the top. For a load secured to a pallet this lower lashing can be a belly wrap applied to the pallet.

Load rated straps with hand winches are a good start provided any chafe points are protected and the load item is also protected if necessary on any corners the lashings change direction on. Load rated chains and binders are recommended for high weight/density items.

For some loads (e.g. flat steel or pipe) the sideways lashings need to be applied either as an under or over belly wrap. Lashings that rise at an angle to the top of the load can be ineffective to restrain the sideways movement of the load i.e. the load can slide sideways under the lashing.


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