# JD 2030 clutch replacment questions



## SCtrailrider (May 1, 2016)

Well my clutch is fixing to leave me stranded so I'm going to take a swing changing it out by myself and I have a few questions...

This is the standard clutch not a reverser type - pto leaver between the gear sticks...

I have located a new OEM pressure plate so I will get it..

I see several different types of friction plates, a solid ware type, and multi pad plates- 4, 5 & a 6 pad clutch plate... what is best ??

I think the flywheel is going to need grinding, are they similar to a truck flywheel, ie flat ???

Where can I buy or borrow a manual that shows the steeps to replace everything, I have a couple but none are very detailed .

Any place to purchase quality parts not made offshore??

thanks, Chris


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## stack em up (Mar 7, 2013)

Lots of stepped flywheels in the ag world, 1.437 is most common depth (I remember that, not what I had for lunch)

6 button clutch is most aggressive, I recommend as many buttons as possible.

BMD clutches is best value for replacement clutch and pressure plates.

Check finger height, often times it's wrong from factory


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## chevytaHOE5674 (Mar 14, 2015)

Think it has a stepped flywheel. Whoever you get to cut the flywheel make sure they cut both surfaces equally and maintain the correct step height.

While your in there do a rear main seal, possible trans input seal, throwout bearing, etc.


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## Farmineer95 (Aug 11, 2014)

Is it a loader tractor?


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## Tx Jim (Jun 30, 2014)

IIRC R&R of rear engine seal requires utilizing a special tool. I'll advise to acquire a 2030 tech manual. Photo is for manual from JD but there are other places that sell TM's. I think flywheel for IPTO will be flat but it's been many yrs since I viewed one. I agree if tractor has loader I wouldn't want a pad clutch as they're more difficult to feather when engaging clutch.


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## Wethay (Jul 17, 2015)

Fairly certain it's a stepped flywheel. Makes sense to do bearings and seals when you are in there. I've never used anything but OEM because the shop I worked at. Definitely check finger height. Remember to put wedges (wood is best) between the front axle and the frame. A couple of alignment dowels/ bolts made from long bolts makes going back together easier, cut the head off, taper end slightly and put a slot in the end for a screwdriver. . You don't need splitting stands, track, fixtures, etc.. three jacks will do it, one of them a rolling floor jack.


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## SCtrailrider (May 1, 2016)

Well I took a look in the inspection hole today, no oil on anything, the parts look new, I paid a shop to replace the clutch 5-6 yrs ago..

One thing I did see, the finger adjustment screws are loose, and the "clip" is gone on all of them.

The screws look like they are as short as they can go, no way to measure it that I can see through the hole..

Would the adjustment screws cause the pressure plate to not have the clamping force it should??

I really don't want to spend the cash on new parts if I don't really need them, IF adjusting the screws will/might give it more clamping force that might be what is wrong..

Their is space between the through out bearing and the fingers so I know that isn't the trouble...


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## Tx Jim (Jun 30, 2014)

May i ask what clips you're referring to? Correct method for adjusting pressure plate fingers is with finger height adjustment tool. I was thinking bolt adjustment affects finger height in relation to throw-out brg but bolts don't affect pressure exerted on clutch disk. Pressure applied to clutch disk relies on the pressure of the 6 springs(item 21)


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## SCtrailrider (May 1, 2016)

Yea, i thought the pressure was only depending on the springs. The clip covers the finger adjust screws, not needed i think. I would bet the flywheel got turned and not the outside lip the pressure plate sits on.


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## SCtrailrider (May 1, 2016)

Well new pressure plate & disc is on the way, as well as a IT manual. I will pressure wash the tractor tomorrow and get it inside and start removing stuff...

One thing I can't find is the clutch adjustment tool JD227 & the disc alignment tool, I have looked and sent messages but haven't found one yet...


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## Wethay (Jul 17, 2015)

The clutch alignment tool, might be your local automotive stove has a plastic one that will work for sale or rent. A used transmission input shaft will work. a guy with a lathe can make one, I would think a guy with a wood lathe could also. The alignment tool doesn't need splines in it, it can be a slip fit through the slines. A guy can go about it with a couple of screwdrivers and an eyeball if needed.


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## Farmineer95 (Aug 11, 2014)

In lieu of an alignment tool another way I've resorted to is eyeballing it. Snug the pressure plate just enough to hold the disk and use a prybar to center the spline with the pilot bearing.
Hasn't failed yet.


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## IH 1586 (Oct 16, 2014)

SCtrailrider said:


> Well new pressure plate & disc is on the way, as well as a IT manual. I will pressure wash the tractor tomorrow and get it inside and start removing stuff...
> 
> One thing I can't find is the clutch adjustment tool JD227 & the disc alignment tool, I have looked and sent messages but haven't found one yet...


I purchased alignment tool from Napa when I did my clutch from recommendation from JD. I shy away from IT manuals. There is no where near the information in them as a JD Tech manual. Expensive yes, but worth every bit of it.


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## SCtrailrider (May 1, 2016)

The IT manual was the best I could find on short notice, I do plan to rebuild the motor next winter so I will find something better..

I think I can figure out the split, doesn't seem too hard, as long as I can keep things from falling LOL...


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## SCtrailrider (May 1, 2016)

Second look, I think I did but a tech manual after all.....

https://www.ebay.com/itm/2030-John-Deere-Technical-Service-Shop-Repair-Manual/222634553547?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649


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## SCtrailrider (May 1, 2016)

I found what I think are high quality parts, I opted to purchase everything, flywheel, disc, pressure plate, throw out bearing, etc, I found a finger adjustment tool as well, man that wasn't cheap but from what I have read it must be done...

I don't know what brands or quality parts were used years ago when I had them replaced but haven't liked the way the clutch performed since then and I think no more than I use it they should have lasted a lot longer so this time I'm doing everything myself...

It will be a chore by myself, maybe the better half can help some...


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## Tx Jim (Jun 30, 2014)

SCtrailrider said:


> Second look, I think I did but a tech manual after all.....
> 
> https://www.ebay.com/itm/2030-John-Deere-Technical-Service-Shop-Repair-Manual/222634553547?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649


That tech manual is a reprint not original & I hope the printing is clear. Be sure to put wedges on both sides between frt axle & frame to keep engine straight up during split.


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## SCtrailrider (May 1, 2016)

Yea, I sure don't want them to fall.... I know it's a reprint and I also hope it's clear, the seller sells a lot of that kind of things...


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## IH 1586 (Oct 16, 2014)

I guess I like originality, I refuse to buy reprints. Couple months ago I caught someone doing reprints after I bought what looked like a Case manual. Looked over their entire listing for days and bought. Got a package of loose papers and my money back. Their listing picture did not match what I held in my hands. Your listing at least lets you know it's a reprint.


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## SCtrailrider (May 1, 2016)

Well I found this stand, waiting on a contact number to discuss it, they are 2 1/2 hrs away.

I think for a single person and the need to get it done right quickly it will be a good idea, and maybe I could resell it or rent/loan it out to recuperate some of the cost...

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Tractor-Splitting-Stand-with-rails-2-Stands-10-000-lbs/153457317725


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## Tx Jim (Jun 30, 2014)

I think that splitting stand should be fine. I couldn't determine from viewing photo but does it have holes to bolt adjustable support to flywheel housing bolt holes? I'll bet cost of stand will still be cheaper than dealer shop charge for R&R of clutch.


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## chevytaHOE5674 (Mar 14, 2015)

I've split many a tractor myself with nothing more than some heavy wood cribbing, and a heavy duty rolling floor jack. Have a large cab tractor apart right bow with just 2 sets of cribbing and a loader tractor when I rolled it apart. A stand would be helpful but for one tractor seems like a wasted expense IMO.


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## Wethay (Jul 17, 2015)

Years ago I did clutches in several 'Deere tractors with a couple of wooden wedges, homemade alignment dowels, a jack stand or two and a couple of floor jacks. The dealership I worked at didn't have any splitting stands or tracks, but most everything was painted green or yellow.


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## SCtrailrider (May 1, 2016)

Well the shop I'm using is small and no room for much, it's the only flat concrete floor I have. And I don't have any other equipment like a loader or hoist to use, yes the stand is money I don't want to spend but if it will ease the splitting with me being by myself I'll absorb the cost vs something going wrong, maybe I will be able to sell it when I'm done...


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## SCtrailrider (May 1, 2016)

Alright, I had purchased all new parts, and wouldn't ya know all of them are wrong except the clutch disc.... 

When I removed the pressure plate the fingers and the top plate were sitting lopsided, fingers were not the same height ..

I also bought a JD227 finger adjustment measuring tool, it also is wrong...

Anyone know what the measurement should be and where to measure it.. the tech manual I bought only says to use the tool but it doesn't fit anything I have..


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## SCtrailrider (May 1, 2016)

Well I figured things out, the adjusting bolts for the fingers were adjusted all the way down, reliving the spring pressure of the plate, they were so out the jd227 tool wasn't even close, once I figured out things I can now adjust them and I think everything will be good, I will know tomorrow...


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## Wrenchhead1968 (Feb 7, 2020)

Is higher quality of an alignment tool as you can get your hands on. Mail tooth of the input shaft of the transmission at 12 o'clock position. Female tooth of clutch disk perfectly centered at 12 o'clock make sure the transmissions in neutral when you split or separate any clutch job do it is smoothly as possible like a professional dancer on a dance floor it Hass to come apart smooth and go back to gather smooth you get rough with that you will bend that cluch disc. No matter what you do don't get rough with it. You won't be able to get it in gear without shutting it off and it'll want to creep forward while it's idling in neutral on a lot of tractors I've had it happen to me in my mechanic shop and I cannot stress enough about being very careful it's happened several times you'll have to start all over again be very gentle don't force anything. Don't start rocking the tractor you'll definitely bandit. I like to put a socket and a breaker bar on the front of the crankshaft have somebody wiggle that back-and-forth don't start turning it you'll definitely damage things. Chevy Tahoe, Texasjim, and a whole bunch of the other guys on here have a lot of experience and a lot of good advice I just thought it was very important that this part be mentioned.


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## Tx Jim (Jun 30, 2014)

SCtrailrider

When I enter a Google search for JD227 tool JD450 & 2010 appear which either model doesn't appear in a ""where used search"" on JD parts site for a 2030 PP(AL56167) that a 2030 should utilize with IPTO. Where did you get the tool # JD227?

Are you checking PP finger height with PP bolted to flywheel with clutch traction disk installed?


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## SCtrailrider (May 1, 2016)

I figured out the trouble...

When the person I paid to install a new clutch either didn't know to adjust the fingers or didn't feel like it, the fingers were so out they springs wouldn't give enough clamping force..

Once I figured out where the problem was I started turning the screws and low and behold it worked. Once the fingers were about the right height the tool worked..

I have it back together now, haven't finished so I haven't tested it yet... I did work the fingers several times and adjusted until the fingers stayed put so maybe I'm good...

The stand I bought worked great, I was able to split and move it back by myself without breaking anything.... don't know if I want to sell it or not now...


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## Ox76 (Oct 22, 2018)

Where did you get the splitting stand kit?


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## SCtrailrider (May 1, 2016)

I found it on ebay, one of the sellers was a 3hr drive from me so I picked it up...

The manufacture is in England ..

Very pleased with it, this one will handle 10K per stand so a 20K tractor, they also offer a bigger one ... it is a heavy little pallet/box... about 150lbs...


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## SCtrailrider (May 1, 2016)

I gave 600$ for it...


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## SCtrailrider (May 1, 2016)

Tx Jim said:


> SCtrailrider
> 
> When I enter a Google search for JD227 tool JD450 & 2010 appear which either model doesn't appear in a ""where used search"" on JD parts site for a 2030 PP(AL56167) that a 2030 should utilize with IPTO. Where did you get the tool # JD227?
> 
> Are you checking PP finger height with PP bolted to flywheel with clutch traction disk installed?


I found the tool on ebay, it's a reproduction @150$ , yes I removed the flywheel and bolted everything up and worked the fingers, then installed on the tractor and only made minor adjustments then..


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## Ox76 (Oct 22, 2018)

A good investment. If you can, keep it. It opens the door for cheaper tractors because many are afraid to split em, and with your setup you can do that and flip em if you want and make some money or get good deals. Thanks for the info - I might wanna go that route instead of the "old" way of doing them - with cribbage, wood wedges for the front axle pivot and a rolling jack on some steel plate. I'm too old and crippled up to be fartin around like that anymore.


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## IH 1586 (Oct 16, 2014)

Have to agree. Hang on to the splitting stand. Sell it with your last tractor when your done farming.


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## Wrenchhead1968 (Feb 7, 2020)

Good job big boy!!! Proud of you.besides proper adjustment and free play don't forget spring to hold clutch pedal back to keep pressure off throwout bearing when applicable.wanna keep pressure off that throwout.


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## Ox76 (Oct 22, 2018)

Fer sure. Fastest way to burn one up. That and resting your toe on the clutch pedal enough to feel it touching the throwout bearing. They ain't meant to be spinning 24/7 lol


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