# Tractor Engine Analysis



## Vol (Jul 5, 2009)

Are you ready for a tractor engine health check?

Regards, Mike

http://www.agweb.com/article/check_your_oil_save_your_engine/


----------



## NewBerlinBaler (May 30, 2011)

I recently retired (31 years) from a subsidiary of Caterpillar, the earth moving giant. The division I worked for builds industrial gas turbine engines in the 1,500 to 30,000 horse power range. They're used in power generation, natural gas pipeline pumping, etc.

Oil sampling, along with a vibration analysis of the running unit, is part of the routine service performed on the installed fleet. This has been standard practice for decades.


----------



## askinner (Nov 15, 2010)

I work in the mining industry, we obviously sample all compartments at 250/500hr intervals, not just the engine. But one thing this hasn't mentioned, that a lot of people aren't aware of, is that coolant should be tested perodically also. Bad coolant can cause just as much damage, if not more, than bad oil! Most of the oil analysis company have the gear to test it, just get a sample in the same way as oil, and send it in to them.


----------



## Mike120 (May 4, 2009)

Agreed! I use http://www.polarislabs.com/ for engine and hydraulic oil. I haven't been testing the coolant because I change it regularly. Probably should though 'cause some of the old Ford blocks had issues with porosity and cavitation.


----------



## askinner (Nov 15, 2010)

Mike120 said:


> I change it regularly.


Even if you only had it tested to determine if it needs changing, may save you the cost of the sample just in coolant. I use Cummins Tec Infinity coolant in my gear, and it isn't cheap, but is supposed to last a long time.

I had a look at that webiste Mike, it says 40% of engine failures are due to a cooling system problem. There's a lot of expen$ive parts bolted to the new tractors too that the coolant runs through, like EGR coolers (which I've heard are very costly), liquid to air aftercoolers, trans coolers etc, so you guys with the latest and greatest pay particular attention to your cooling system!


----------



## JD3430 (Jan 1, 2012)

I always wondered if anti-cavitation additives would be helpfull in keeping liners from pitting, but only IH motors seem to call for it. I have to get better at coolant maintenance.
Somebody ought a do a sticky on changing coolant tips & tricks cause I always bolix up that procedure up somehow along the way......lol


----------



## askinner (Nov 15, 2010)

JD, I'd just get it tested professionally every 6-12 months. The only things you can really check yourself are glycol concentration, and PH. The labs will test for a whole lot more, like to see if there are any metals that are being eaten away by a stray earth etc.

They'll then give recomendations, i.e. change it, or maintain with some additives.


----------



## mlappin (Jun 25, 2009)

JD3430 said:


> I always wondered if anti-cavitation additives would be helpfull in keeping liners from pitting, but only IH motors seem to call for it. I have to get better at coolant maintenance.
> Somebody ought a do a sticky on changing coolant tips & tricks cause I always bolix up that procedure up somehow along the way......lol


Nah, Cat had an additive for theirs as well. I've seen a John Deere water neck above the thermostat that had pin holes in it from cavitation, also had to change sleeves out in a Wakashaw from the same thing.

We use a high dollar extended antifreeze that has all the additives already in it. Meets CAT, IH, Detroit, Cummins, etc specs for heavy duty diesels. We buy a 55 gallon drum of it, transfer half to another drum then add 25 gallons of distilled water.


----------



## askinner (Nov 15, 2010)

mlappin said:


> Nah, Cat had an additive for theirs as well. I've seen a John Deere water neck above the thermostat that had pin holes in it from cavitation, also had to change sleeves out in a Wakashaw from the same thing.
> 
> We use a high dollar extended antifreeze that has all the additives already in it. Meets CAT, IH, Detroit, Cummins, etc specs for heavy duty diesels. We buy a 55 gallon drum of it, transfer half to another drum then add 25 gallons of distilled water.


I've stripped engines down that have run the Cat long-life, and was always impressed by how spotless everthing was. I am now running the Cummins long life as mentioned, I have torn engines down running it, much the same, but it does leave a film on everything. I assume this is an anti-cavitation package or silicates that stick to the liners. This coolant will last 20,000 hrs maintained correctly, though I'd be happy with half that without blowing a hose or something.

A big warning to all HT members, DO NOT MIX COOLANTS! A lot of them are incompatable with each other, and will cause silicate drop-out. This will basically leave a deposit around the bottom of your liners, and will probably cause pistons to grab. Also, top up with your original fill, not water.

HTH,
Aaron.


----------



## JD3430 (Jan 1, 2012)

askinner said:


> I've stripped engines down that have run the Cat long-life, and was always impressed by how spotless everthing was. I am now running the Cummins long life as mentioned, I have torn engines down running it, much the same, but it does leave a film on everything. I assume this is an anti-cavitation package or silicates that stick to the liners. This coolant will last 20,000 hrs maintained correctly, though I'd be happy with half that without blowing a hose or something.
> 
> A big warning to all HT members, DO NOT MIX COOLANTS! A lot of them are incompatable with each other, and will cause silicate drop-out. This will basically leave a deposit around the bottom of your liners, and will probably cause pistons to grab. Also, top up with your original fill, not water.
> 
> ...


Good to know


----------



## NDVA HAYMAN (Nov 24, 2009)

Boy, Never knew all of this about coolants. I need to revise my maintenance program. Thanks guys. Mike


----------



## JD3430 (Jan 1, 2012)

Hay guys, before this thread ends:
I never seem to feel like I got all the junk out when I change radiator fluid.
What tips or tricks do you use to flush out the radiators in your tractors?
I have to get this done and get the Cummins/CAT anti freeze in my tractors.


----------



## askinner (Nov 15, 2010)

JD, I use a Cat flushing product that works really well. I bought a tractor that the previous owner had only used water, and it was rusty as heck, and overheated quite easily. I ran this flush through it a couple of times, and filled with coolant, and it is now clean as a new engine. The flush only need be left in for a couple of hrs work.
It is called cooling system cleaner - quick flush. The part no. for 1 gal is 4C-4611, and 5 gal is 4C-4612. From memory, 5 gal would be plenty for a tractor flush out. Link to info here http://parts.cat.com/parts/machine-fluids/coolants/cooling-system-cleaners/cooling-system-cleaner---quick-flush
Cummins also have a good cleaner, it is called Restore, info here: http://www.cumminsfiltration.com/pdfs/product_lit/emea_brochures/LI33024-GB.pdf?bcsi_scan_b3d5d183625f552f=0&bcsi_scan_filename=LI33024-GB.pdf


----------

