# Best John Deere 80 acre “farm”



## martynranch (Oct 5, 2021)

Howdy haytalkers! My wife and I are about to close on an 80 acre farm which is half field and half forest. Western Mass, New England. I need a tractor. I need it to do it all, but don’t want an overkill nor something weak that if I spent $10k more I’d be happier. My entire family is from Ukraine and farming was their everything, except they had no machinery yet made a living. So I need my dad amazed. We’re going all out from crops to livestock so this tractor needs to be the workhorse on the farm. We’ll have horses too. I was looking at the 4066r but then all the 6 series make it look like a joke. Hit me with the best one to go for. ~$60,000 sounds good. I only want John Deere because they sing songs about them. Thank you in advance!


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## sea2summit (Aug 4, 2021)

You said a lot without saying anything about what you need the tractor to actually do.


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## martynranch (Oct 5, 2021)

sea2summit said:


> You said a lot without saying anything about what you need the tractor to actually do.


 Everything from cultivating to plowing snow. And everything in between: clearing up forest if need be.


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## sea2summit (Aug 4, 2021)

martynranch said:


> Everything from cultivating to plowing snow. And everything in between: clearing up forest if need be.


I'm not trying to talk down to you, but there's really a lot of info you're not thinking about when asking the question.

Cultivating 80 acres? Row crops? Running a harvester like a corn chopper or similar? Hay? What kind of bales? The 4066 is probably not suitable for any of those tasks.

Clearing woods means what? Making trails? Grinding stumps? Digging ditches? Grappling? Brush hogging? The 4066 is probably good for most of these tasks.

How much of the 80 acres will be crops and how much is woods? 

What's the heaviest thing you think you might need to lift (500# round bale for horses)? Do you need to move it? What kind of terrain are you moving it over? How high do you need to be able to handle it (unload it from a semi trailer)?

Tractors aren't really good for plowing, the FEL is designed to lift things and put them down and really doesn't like to push things it doesn't have too...especially laterally like the forces of a snow plow. Most tractors moving snow will be doing it from the 3PT with a blower or a rear blade. 

At the end of the day you may need a skid steer more than a tractor if you're focused on horses and plowing but 80 acres you'll be hating life if you need to drive any kind of distance in one.


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## martynranch (Oct 5, 2021)

sea2summit said:


> I'm not trying to talk down to you, but there's really a lot of info you're not thinking about when asking the question.
> 
> Cultivating 80 acres? Row crops? Running a harvester like a corn chopper or similar? Hay? What kind of bales? The 4066 is probably not suitable for any of those tasks.
> 
> ...


my bad, field is about 30 acres. Half will be a pasture. So let’s assume we’re scattering crops on the other half. I’ll be plowing the main driveway and all with a truck, but the tractor for around the barn and house - it’s on a hill past the driveway next to the field.

nothing crazy in the forest, but if we chop down a tree and want to break it up, I want this tractor to lift up some good chunks.

pretty much need it to be capable for the unplanned around the farm sort of speak. That way when something comes up that I didn’t account for, I’m not left needing another machine.


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## ttazzman (Sep 29, 2019)

if it were me...and i am ruleing out subcompact tractors because they are extremely limited on lifting and field work

the first question you probably need to ask yourself is ........Hydro-stat or Gear tractor......the 4066r is the largest JD tractor with Hydro-stat

second thing to consider is .......4series is a large compact tractor and they are very good at doing chore work and reasonable loader work very nimble tractors ..........6series is a AG Farm Field tractor and will do just about anything AG related reasonably well ........you skipped the 5series which fits in the middle

in our area of the country a 5085x + tractor is very popular for small farms and ranches

consider most all tractors will pull some form of plow obviously bigger is faster etc

weight (you can add weight to any tractor) and tire type is a big consideration for field work and any ground engagement work

PTO hp is a critical item to consider as it affects size of mowers. balers...etc

i personally have a 4series size tractor for day to day chores ......and 5 series for more farm type work ....and others for heavy farm work 6 and 7 series .....day in and day out i get on the 4 series more than all the others.....but i sure dont hook it up to big mowers etc

from what you mentioned i would probably go with a 5085x thru 5115x or give up some field capability and step down to the 4066x

since your JD specfic you might want to visit greentractortalk.com and read up


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## Sterling6.7 (Jul 11, 2017)

You could get by with 50-60 hp and would be better off with 80-100 hp. ttazzman and I are on similar pages.


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## bool (Mar 14, 2016)

Wanting a John Deere because they sing songs about them is no sillier that the reasons many of us have John Deeres! Your willingness to pay the "green paint tax" puts you in good company round here. (Disclosure: I have 3 of them.) 80 acres is enough land to do real tractor work, and it sounds like you want to. 4066 has power but is designed for yard chores rather than field work. It's nimble and handy round the yard, sure, but you would find youself looking for something better for heavier work. A 6000 series is overkill for your needs, unless you have deep pockets. So for you I think the "Goldilocks" option is the 5000 series. My neighbour has just bought a 5075E open station for his 40 acre block and he loves it, but he is not doing the range of work you are planning. I would suggest something like a 5090M, with cabin (for working in bad weather), front wheel assist (better for front loader work, plus traction in mud and snow), and the 16x16 transmission to give you plenty of gear options which you need for field work (and the reverser is good for front loader work). A tractor like that would do absolutely anything you might need: heavy cultivation, mower-conditioner, round or small square baler, front loader work, anything. And it wouldn't be too big and unwieldy for light jobs.

Roger


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## Hayjosh (Mar 24, 2016)

martynranch said:


> my bad, field is about 30 acres. Half will be a pasture. So let’s assume we’re scattering crops on the other half. I’ll be plowing the main driveway and all with a truck, but the tractor for around the barn and house - it’s on a hill past the driveway next to the field.
> 
> nothing crazy in the forest, but if we chop down a tree and want to break it up, I want this tractor to lift up some good chunks.
> 
> pretty much need it to be capable for the unplanned around the farm sort of speak. That way when something comes up that I didn’t account for, I’m not left needing another machine.


If I'm reading this right, you're cropping about 15 acres? That's not much to do anything on, even for hay. Let alone justification for a $60k tractor.


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## martynranch (Oct 5, 2021)

bool said:


> Wanting a John Deere because they sing songs about them is no sillier that the reasons many of us have John Deeres! Your willingness to pay the "green paint tax" puts you in good company round here. (Disclosure: I have 3 of them.) 80 acres is enough land to do real tractor work, and it sounds like you want to. 4066 has power but is designed for yard chores rather than field work. It's nimble and handy round the yard, sure, but you would find youself looking for something better for heavier work. A 6000 series is overkill for your needs, unless you have deep pockets. So for you I think the "Goldilocks" option is the 5000 series. My neighbour has just bought a 5075E open station for his 40 acre block and he loves it, but he is not doing the range of work you are planning. I would suggest something like a 5090M, with cabin (for working in bad weather), front wheel assist (better for front loader work, plus traction in mud and snow), and the 16x16 transmission to give you plenty of gear options which you need for field work (and the reverser is good for front loader work). A tractor like that would do absolutely anything you might need: heavy cultivation, mower-conditioner, round or small square baler, front loader work, anything. And it wouldn't be too big and unwieldy for light jobs.
> 
> Roger


 This here the exact reason I registered at the haytalk quarters cuz I know real farmers don’t hang out on Facebook groups and that’s where I’ve been doing most of my independent research. Surprisingly both have yielded the exact same conclusions and the 5 series seems to be the clear winner. Now I can’t bash Facebook too much, because I just learned the difference between row crops and field crops. Field crops is what we’re after and we ain’t doing this for a living nor commercially, just love some freedom with a pasture that my kids can ride horses on and stay far from iPads and the television in the future. Now my friend keeps trying to convince me to get an orange kubota and won’t stop sending me articles that I can’t keep up deleting from my inbox. What’s the main reason you guys tell your friends you went with a Deere? But then again, all my friends told me to get a Ford truck, but I went ahead and ordered a maxed out RAM 3500 Laramie Cummins fully with an 8’ bed. I don’t care, I know that I was born for this. I sincerely do thank you for steering me even closer to a 5 series.


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## martynranch (Oct 5, 2021)

Hayjosh said:


> If I'm reading this right, you're cropping about 15 acres? That's not much to do anything on, even for hay. Let alone justification for a $60k tractor.


 Yeah it’s going to be a good ‘ole family ranch or farm where my parents could move to and all the family comes together while my wife and kids can enjoy the animals and grow organics. My life in America is on a .75 acre subdivision lot while my parents immigrated as generational farmers from Ukraine. I said enough is enough. I’m going all in.


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## martynranch (Oct 5, 2021)

ttazzman said:


> if it were me...and i am ruleing out subcompact tractors because they are extremely limited on lifting and field work
> 
> the first question you probably need to ask yourself is ........Hydro-stat or Gear tractor......the 4066r is the largest JD tractor with Hydro-stat
> 
> ...


I appreciate this. Given the details, field crops, 80 total acres, about half field and all the barn animals , hands down - choose one, which 5 series?


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## carcajou (Jan 28, 2011)

5075e will be a good fit


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## ttazzman (Sep 29, 2019)

if your go look at 5 series's i see no need to go below a 5075x.... i would size it to your future anticitapted PTO hp needs .......for example if you think you might want to run a 15' batwing mower in the future then you probably need a 5085x ...and so on...just depends on what you think you will need

you will find that price will change a lot based on the letter suffix you look at ...(X)...they offer 3 trim levels....E, M and R ......just like cars the higher you go the more it costs for bells n whistles and if your just a occasional user or made of $ i would choose more HP vs a higher Trim level depending on your budget and what they have available

from what you have mentioned i would probably opt for the 5085 for a bit more flexibility but the 5075 carcaju mentioned above would be a good option also ....hopefully you will get more opinions


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## Hayman1 (Jul 6, 2013)

I would get an early JD 5075M or 5085M, 2013 or earlier to avoid most of the emissions crud with the factory correct loader. Mine is a 2wd with 15-38 rears. Open station with factory canopy. Two remotes. Great chore tractor, handles an 8’ heavy blade in snow no problem. Runs heavy duty 10th bush hog


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## sea2summit (Aug 4, 2021)

martynranch said:


> Now my friend keeps trying to convince me to get an orange kubota and won’t stop sending me articles that I can’t keep up deleting from my inbox. What’s the main reason you guys tell your friends you went with a Deere?


I'm an orange guy and love them. Neighbor and mentor updated his tractor this spring and bought a 5075 with a new round baler. The tractor is great but the baler is utter garbage and after a whole summer of them coming and fixing it, it can now finally bale 10 acres without breakdown but he's still less than 30 total since their last visit. There is a design flaw in the baler that's utterly apparent and it kept pinching or tearing the hydraulic hose, amazing to me considering Deere's reputation. He tried to get them to take it back after the third visit, one hose failure happened on the fourth bale after one of their repairs and they insist it's assembled correctly.

There's a lot to be said about buying the dealer not the tractor...but research the brand for issues, a new buyer IMHO is a fool not to look at all the brands if for nothing else than understanding the features because each brand's brochure on page one will say "XYZ feature is what sets ABC tractors apart!" Figure out what "XYZ" feature is and why it is or isn't important to you then make choices on what matter to you. Also talk to the sales guys, probably 40% of tractor sales guys (unlike car sales guys) will try and get you in the right tractor for what you need to do.


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## Tx Jim (Jun 30, 2014)

sea2summit
Which model rd baler are you referring to? I'll guess it's one of the models that only makes a 5 ft diameter or smaller bale. I have baled over 150,000 bales utilizing JD rd balers which proves some JD rd baler models are very reliable.


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## KS John (Aug 6, 2018)

sea2summit said:


> I'm an orange guy and love them. Neighbor and mentor updated his tractor this spring and bought a 5075 with a new round baler. The tractor is great but the baler is utter garbage and after a whole summer of them coming and fixing it, it can now finally bale 10 acres without breakdown but he's still less than 30 total since their last visit. There is a design flaw in the baler that's utterly apparent and it kept pinching or tearing the hydraulic hose, amazing to me considering Deere's reputation. He tried to get them to take it back after the third visit, one hose failure happened on the fourth bale after one of their repairs and they insist it's assembled correctly.
> 
> There's a lot to be said about buying the dealer not the tractor...but research the brand for issues, a new buyer IMHO is a fool not to look at all the brands if for nothing else than understanding the features because each brand's brochure on page one will say "XYZ feature is what sets ABC tractors apart!" Figure out what "XYZ" feature is and why it is or isn't important to you then make choices on what matter to you. Also talk to the sales guys, probably 40% of tractor sales guys (unlike car sales guys) will try and get you in the right tractor for what you need to do.


I would suggest your neighbor try another dealer. Sometimes they cannot see the forrest for the trees! (The "it can't be my fault). If the entire series were bad they would pull it from the market before ruining their reputation. Just MHO. Good luck getting it fixed. Now back to the OP.


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## IH 1586 (Oct 16, 2014)

sea2summit said:


> I'm an orange guy and love them. Neighbor and mentor updated his tractor this spring and bought a 5075 with a new round baler. The tractor is great but the baler is utter garbage and after a whole summer of them coming and fixing it, it can now finally bale 10 acres without breakdown but he's still less than 30 total since their last visit. There is a design flaw in the baler that's utterly apparent and it kept pinching or tearing the hydraulic hose, amazing to me considering Deere's reputation. He tried to get them to take it back after the third visit, one hose failure happened on the fourth bale after one of their repairs and they insist it's assembled correctly.
> 
> There's a lot to be said about buying the dealer not the tractor...but research the brand for issues, a new buyer IMHO is a fool not to look at all the brands if for nothing else than understanding the features because each brand's brochure on page one will say "XYZ feature is what sets ABC tractors apart!" Figure out what "XYZ" feature is and why it is or isn't important to you then make choices on what matter to you. Also talk to the sales guys, probably 40% of tractor sales guys (unlike car sales guys) will try and get you in the right tractor for what you need to do.


Start another thread on these "issues". We would like to help.


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## martynranch (Oct 5, 2021)

Dang, I already got the truck and the blueprints for the barn, but only further away from the tractor. Now they really got me considering a Kubota M7060 or even M4-071, but what the heck… I want a John Deere.


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## Bonfire (Oct 21, 2012)

I wouldn’t get anything with any emissions on it. I’d look at the Deere 6X10 or 20 series.


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## Trillium Farm (Dec 18, 2014)

martynranch said:


> Dang, I already got the truck and the blueprints for the barn, but only further away from the tractor. Now they really got me considering a Kubota M7060 or even M4-071, but what the heck… I want a John Deere.


Nothing wrong with that as long as you know that you paid too much just to drive green paint.


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## Jimmy Bartlett (Aug 17, 2015)

martynranch said:


> Dang, I already got the truck and the blueprints for the barn, but only further away from the tractor. Now they really got me considering a Kubota M7060 or even M4-071, but what the heck… I want a John Deere.


The 5075e is comparable to M7060 in PTO power. I'm of the opinion that one should either buy ~1995-2005 vintage (tier 0/1/2) or skip right to ~2018+ (FT4 after some growing pain). The 5x10/5x20 and 6x10 are darned good models of tractors, but at 25-30 years old there will be some degradation of rubber & electrical. Prices these days on a well kept 25 year old tractor sometimes aren't too much different than the price of decent 3 year old tractor.


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## ttazzman (Sep 29, 2019)

martynranch said:


> Dang, I already got the truck and the blueprints for the barn, but only further away from the tractor. Now they really got me considering a Kubota M7060 or even M4-071, but what the heck… I want a John Deere.


Not a thing wrong with kubotas or other brands each has there own pros n cons......the reason I have green is simple #1 close dealers and great parts access.....#2 I have never lost money on a green tractor


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## Hayman1 (Jul 6, 2013)

In response to the OPs why do you have a deere- I have Deeres because I grew up with them on neighbors farms and we had allis. Nothing wrong with allis, just when you grew up listening to 2 cylinders plowing and disking under load that is music that is hard to remove from your permanent sound track. My dad had a 1010 and so did I but really did not like it. Luckily, it wasn't a 2010 (probably the biggest flop from JD ever, kind of like an edsel I suppose. Anyway, ran 3010s and 3020s for a farm one summer during high school and was sold. Always will be a green guy, and I am too old to try new things now. I do acknowledge that I have a kubby ztr and you could not give me a deere ztr and I don't fit in their gators so I have a Kubby RTV 500 which suits me to a T


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## Vol (Jul 5, 2009)

Trillium Farm said:


> Nothing wrong with that as long as you know that you paid too much just to drive green paint.


Too much for you is probably much different than it is for a lot of other people. You probably are much better off without "green paint". 

Regards, Mike


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## Trillium Farm (Dec 18, 2014)

Vol said:


> Too much for you is probably much different than it is for a lot of other people. You probably are much better off without "green paint".
> Regards, Mike


I knew my remark would have caused a stir amongst JD lovers! 😇😁


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## Vol (Jul 5, 2009)

Trillium Farm said:


> I knew my remark would have caused a stir amongst JD lovers! 😇😁


Well that's the first time you have been correct in quite some time. 

Regards, Mike


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## martynranch (Oct 5, 2021)

If someone told me that I’d be buying farmland and owning a tractor 10 years ago, laughing would be the most humble word I’d use. Coming from the tech world, this didn’t even cross my mind. But as we grow older, the young and dumb me have bumped to some undeserved blessings and I suddenly feel that I was born for this and it all makes sense now. From where my parents are from to every attraction I had to things like a Green John Deere, I’m sorry but I can’t go against my gut. It will have to be a John Deere. I don’t remember if I mentioned this already, but I don’t know squat about farming, but my parents do and they did it long before equipment was accessible in Ukraine. My dad will appreciate the best John Deere you folks recommend for this 80 acre corner. 5xxx? Please help me decide already. Winter is coming, barn blueprints are drafted and I’m about to settle on a builder. House will be remodeled, truck is ordered and we know what kind of fence we want. My classic cars will go into the old barn downstairs (will restore) and again - I need a tractor! Which John Deere?


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## martynranch (Oct 5, 2021)

Oh and forget the $60,000 budget. We’ll go with what we need to. You guys are the pros, I feel at home here.


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## martynranch (Oct 5, 2021)

Could be pre DEF used too, just need to settle on a model or models… THANK YOU AGAIN ALL!


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## Hayman1 (Jul 6, 2013)

A 2555 would be a decent choice if you could get a low hr one, like 3k. Good luck on that. The wire diagram is a classic German whizbo pain and if you go cab, the air can be as well. I loved that high-lo trans but never had one go out.

for your long term use, especially with a loader, I would not consider anything without a wet clutch and reverser,16 spd Trans. That’s what I have in the 5075M. I would stay away from the Es. I hated the 9 spd trans but that was a major pain with cutting and baling. The 5300, 5400 5500 series and successors were too lightweight in their clutches for me and some people had fuel system issues.

you might consider adding a mini ex to your list. You can get decent reasonable hr used bobcat models for 20k and if you have a buddy you trust with equipment, buy it in partnership and cut the cost of ownership in half. Hth


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## Tx Jim (Jun 30, 2014)

Hayman1
You're contradicting yourself when you state to get a JD 55 series utility tractor but be sure and get a tractor with a wet traction clutch!! JD 55 series utility tractors although normally are very good have a "dry traction clutch". If OP chooses a JD 55 series or older utility tractor they need to be sure hyd system operates correctly when engine is at operating temp because problems with closed-center hyd's can be troublesome.

I agree wiring schematic on JD 40-55 series utility tractors with a cab closely resembles a "spider web"?


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## Hayjosh (Mar 24, 2016)

It is the opinion of many that the 55 series were among the better tractors JD has ever built. I personally have no experience with them but have considered buying a 2555 or 2755 before.

Like Hayman said though, if my next tractor is another loader tractor, it's got to have a power reverser. I use to operate a 6420 with one and it makes doing loader work with anything else lacking a power reverser very frustrating.


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## Tx Jim (Jun 30, 2014)

JD 50 & 55 series utility have a very good history BUT if hyd problems happen to rear it's ugly head they can be ""very bad"". Utility models of this era with cabs are more difficult to repair due to cab sitting very close to rockshaft housing. Plus utility AC systems weren't as dependable as their Waterloo built counterparts.

I traded a Kubota tractor with sync shuttle for another Kubota tractor with hyd shuttle & wouldn't want to go back to requiring pushing clutch pedal when changing directions


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## danwi (Mar 6, 2015)

A neighbor uses a 5101E with cab on their horse farm every day, pulls a 9ft discbine and all the other jobs. I believe he has had good luck with that tractor. But that tractor may be 10 years old more or less.


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## martynranch (Oct 5, 2021)

Which model specifically? Any year I should try to look for? Sorry for the noob questions…


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## ttazzman (Sep 29, 2019)

I certainly like the pre-tier 4 engine years ...in JD 5 series that is basically pre 2014...


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## Hayman1 (Jul 6, 2013)

I totally agree with Jim, no desire to have to clutch every time I reverse, hard on your knees, hard on your tractor clutch. I have a 2013 5075M which I ordered from Augusta. One of the last non tier 4 60hp tractors made by deere. I have to order some parts for it from the interim tier 4 model parts list so they must have changed over during the model year so be careful with 2013s. My only complaint is the fuel filter is really cranky, have to change in half factory interval and can not use off road or it plugs. Vagaries of the common rail fuel system. Tractor Data says they started making them in 2008. I don't think their predecessor the 5325 was as good as the M models-it was more like the 5400-5500 which was the predecessor of the 5325. Other than looking for a 5075M that is not tier 4 I would focus on lowest number of hours you can get and decent condition of the machine. I have 15-38 rears which I really like. Hate those silly 30 inch rears that they put on so many tractors of this hp range.


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## Vol (Jul 5, 2009)

I will also vote for a 5075M, 5085M, 5095M in the predef models.

Regards, Mike


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## Tx Jim (Jun 30, 2014)

Hayman1
Have you considered swapping your factory fuel filter/base for a different style such as the Roosa-master rectangular type?


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## Hayman1 (Jul 6, 2013)

Tx Jim said:


> Hayman1
> Have you considered swapping your factory fuel filter/base for a different style such as the Roosa-master rectangular type?


No, just a little hesitant to muck with system design. Am I being too cautious?


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## Tx Jim (Jun 30, 2014)

My knowledge of common-rail fuel systems is very limited & I plan on my not having any "hands on" experience. So I will not comment further on altering/substituting fuel filter. 
Have you ever checked the fuel transfer pump pressure/flow?


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## Hayman1 (Jul 6, 2013)

Tx Jim said:


> My knowledge of common-rail fuel systems is very limited & I plan on my not having any "hands on" experience. So I will not comment further on altering/substituting fuel filter.
> Have you ever checked the fuel transfer pump pressure/flow?


Not sure but I am assuming (I know, bad) that the JD Tech did when he was diagnosing the issue once. Lord knows I paid enough for the service call.


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## martynranch (Oct 5, 2021)

From what I’m understanding, all the recommended models are under 100hp… any particular reason? If I was ready to splurge a little, any models over 100hp? Predef/pre 2013…


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## Hayjosh (Mar 24, 2016)

Because you don’t need 100 horsepower…


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## martynranch (Oct 5, 2021)

Is this crazy or OK?

2009 JOHN DEERE 5095M
For Sale Price: USD $69,500

Hours: 143
Transmission Type: Quad Range
Rear Remote Hydraulics: 2
Drive: MFWD
2009 John Deere 5095M MFWD, 143 one owner hours, Quad Range, 18.4-R30 rears, 12.4R-24 fronts, mid mount hydraulics and joystick for loader, front fenders, 3pt, QH, 540 PTO, very clean one owner tractor, plastic still on the seat.


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## Sterling6.7 (Jul 11, 2017)

Pretty expensive, especially without a loader. Check around online and you can get a better feel for current pricing across the nation.

If you go above 100hp, the physical size gets to be too much. There are some exceptions to this though.


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## danwi (Mar 6, 2015)

I suggested a 5101E I know some may say that is a cheaper version but I think they are rating it around a 100HP. LIke I said neighbor pulls a 9 ft discbine with his and it is not that big of tractor for physical size.


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## Sterling6.7 (Jul 11, 2017)

Yep.

I am running a 5100E, 2240 and a 5400 with mostly CAT1 implements on 28 acres. the 10’ flail will only run on the 5100E along with the 12’ disk. I am not set up to handle the physical size of a larger tractor in some of the tighter spots. I have had no major issues with any of these tractors, but I put about 200 hours total on per year between all three. At some point, it helps having multiple different sized tractors that are close enough in size to run most of the same implement, just in case of breakdown.


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## ttazzman (Sep 29, 2019)

martynranch said:


> From what I’m understanding, all the recommended models are under 100hp… any particular reason? If I was ready to splurge a little, any models over 100hp? Predef/pre 2013…


I have a 5105m....the most hp in predef....other than a few of the 5115m's that were only avaliable for a short time......but nothing you mentioned would require over 85 in my opinion


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## martynranch (Oct 5, 2021)

Ok guys; the search has begun! 5075, 5095, 5105 or 5115 predef… what’s the max hours you guys suggest? And again, thank you all.


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## Cactus50 (Nov 26, 2020)

martynranch said:


> Is this crazy or OK?
> 
> 2009 JOHN DEERE 5095M
> For Sale Price: USD $69,500
> ...


As a comparison in 2019 I purchased a new 2019 5100M with a loader for $72K. Granted it uses DEF but the price on the one you mention does seem a little high and not include a loader. Last year I bought a one owner 2013 6105M (461 hrs) with a loader for $74K. Not sure if this helps or not but at least its a comparison.


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## danwi (Mar 6, 2015)

I wouldn't hesitate at a well cared for and serviced, 2 to 3,000 hour tractor, if it was priced accordingly. Have to know the price of a comparative new one to know what the price per hour difference is. You may be better trying to find something under 1,000 hours though.


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## martynranch (Oct 5, 2021)

danwi said:


> I wouldn't hesitate at a well cared for and serviced, 2 to 3,000 hour tractor, if it was priced accordingly. Have to know the price of a comparative new one to know what the price per hour difference is. You may be better trying to find something under 1,000 hours though.


Thank you! And thank you helping me throughout. Seeing a lot of 5100m’s for sale 2013 and older… is 5095m > 5100m? Again, sorry for the noob questions… just wondering if certain models were better than other for whatever reason.

Also priced our a new 5100R with a loader and a 12’ rotary cutter… $112k!


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## RobertJ (Jan 9, 2019)

martynranch said:


> Thank you! And thank you helping me throughout. Seeing a lot of 5100m’s for sale 2013 and older… is 5095m > 5100m? Again, sorry for the noob questions… just wondering if certain models were better than other for whatever reason.
> 
> Also priced our a new 5100R with a loader and a 12’ rotary cutter… $112k!


It's been a while since I was a dealer tech so I could be remembering wrong but I think the 5095m was tier 3 emissions vs tier 4 for the 5100m. I would definitely recommend against an early tier 4 tractor if you're getting a tractor with emissions equipment get as new as you can. Or buy something pre dpf (5095 5105) 

The 5r series was just coming out when I left the delearship so I don't know too much about them but between a 5m and a 5e the 5m is a much better built tractor.


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## martynranch (Oct 5, 2021)

This entire time I’m searching for older Deere tractors thinking ALL new diesel Deer’s have DEF. Otherwise I’m definitely interested in a new 5R without DEF… would that be the 5095 or 5100?


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## RobertJ (Jan 9, 2019)

martynranch said:


> This entire time I’m searching for older Deere tractors thinking ALL new diesel Deer’s have DEF. Otherwise I’m definitely interested in a new 5R without DEF… would that be the 5095 or 5100?


Sorry for the confusion. Any new tractor your going to get in that size is going to have DEF. All 5r tractors are going to be new enough to need DEF.

What I was referring to are what are known as Interim Tier 4 tractors, the first round of heavily emissionized tractors that have DPFs but do not take DEF and are in fact worse than the tractors that take DEF. I think the 5100m is one of those tractors that has a DPF but does not take DEF but I do not remember for sure. Where a 5095M is a tier 3 tractor so it has minimal emissions equipment.


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## Cactus50 (Nov 26, 2020)

martynranch said:


> This entire time I’m searching for older Deere tractors thinking ALL new diesel Deer’s have DEF. Otherwise I’m definitely interested in a new 5R without DEF… would that be the 5095 or 5100?


I have a 5100M and it takes DEF. Its a 2019.


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## dvcochran (Oct 1, 2017)

martynranch said:


> Howdy haytalkers! My wife and I are about to close on an 80 acre farm which is half field and half forest. Western Mass, New England. I need a tractor. I need it to do it all, but don’t want an overkill nor something weak that if I spent $10k more I’d be happier. My entire family is from Ukraine and farming was their everything, except they had no machinery yet made a living. So I need my dad amazed. We’re going all out from crops to livestock so this tractor needs to be the workhorse on the farm. We’ll have horses too. I was looking at the 4066r but then all the 6 series make it look like a joke. Hit me with the best one to go for. ~$60,000 sounds good. I only want John Deere because they sing songs about them. Thank you in advance!


You will get plenty of answers on tractor size. I will tell you the more important thing regarding brand is what dealer(s) will be close to you. A green tractor will be at a disadvantage if the nearest dealer/service center is 100 miles away. 
I am not promoting any specific brand. But service and support cannot be oversold.


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## Edd in KY (Jul 16, 2009)

I bought a JD 5420 new 20 years ago when i bought this farm (100 acres). 65HP PTO. I use it for everything, mowing, baling, moving bales etc. It has been great. If I needed another tractor, I would buy another one tomorrow. Mine is 2 wd but they made a 4wd model. some have cabs and loaders. Might be worth looking for a good used model, and save 30k to use for buying good equipment. Get a good reliable tractor, but also get good equipment, especially mowers, to save the headaches of breakdowns.


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## Trillium Farm (Dec 18, 2014)

Edd in KY said:


> I bought a JD 5420 new 20 years ago when i bought this farm (100 acres). 65HP PTO. I use it for everything, mowing, baling, moving bales etc. It has been great. If I needed another tractor, I would buy another one tomorrow. Mine is 2 wd but they made a 4wd model. some have cabs and loaders. Might be worth looking for a good used model, and save 30k to use for buying good equipment. Get a good reliable tractor, but also get good equipment, especially mowers, to save the headaches of breakdowns.


I think that for haying small bales a 2WD tractor is going to be just fine and cheaper than a FWA


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## bool (Mar 14, 2016)

But for loader work a FWA helps, and if I were to have only one tractor I would want it to be FWA.

Roger


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## Tx Jim (Jun 30, 2014)

I own a '11 Kubota M7040 MFWD that I purchased it with MFWD solely to get the option of hyd reverser(shuttle). I've handled 1000's of rd bales with it & only needed to shift into MFWD less than 10 times when it was very muddy. Yes MFWD is nice when needed but many farmers in the past years produced food/crops for many yrs before MFWD became more common.


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## Cactus50 (Nov 26, 2020)

So Martynranch, have you made your decision on the tractor you're going to purchase? If so which one?


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## Hayman1 (Jul 6, 2013)

Trillium Farm said:


> I think that for haying small bales a 2WD tractor is going to be just fine and cheaper than a FWA


Yeah, I wish I had my 2wd back most of the time. Better visibility and maneuverability and no expensive front end to maintain. Mother Deere already had to replace it-6.5 K I think is what the JD shop manager said. Seems as though the kingpin was defective and would start to wear poorly. There was a recall, I had not noticed anything with the steering but apparently there was some test they did and with certain results, total replacement. That said, it was greasy when I did some hay this fall and I used 4wd to cut. Was really helpful in minimizing tearing up the field. Was fine by the time I baled.


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## chevytaHOE5674 (Mar 14, 2015)

I only own 1 2wd tractor anymore and will sell/trade it off when the right MFWD replacement comes along. A MFWD tractor will do everything a 2wd will do plus give a better ride, more traction, better resale, etc.


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## Hayjosh (Mar 24, 2016)

Boy it's just whiplash over here listening to you guys. I think I've watched ping pong games where my neck didn't get as sore.


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## Wethay (Jul 17, 2015)

I have a John Deere 5320 (55 pto hp) with a loader. without ballast on the back the loader can pick up more than the back end can keep ballasted. I use a grapple for most of the work I do removing/ moving/ stacking brush, berries and logs. If I didn't have whoa and go on the front axle the tractor would be much less useful. Even when I just have the bale handler on with 8 small square bales the front wheels are often engaged when loading bales on a customer's vehicle. Some of my fields are flatter than others but nearly all have at least a bit of a slope to them. Without front wheel drive I wouldn't be comfortable loading from the uphill side even on nearly flat ground. With the weight hanging off the front and a bit of stubble under the rear tires it's easy to slide just a bit on occasion. When your looking at the side of a nearly new dually pickup a couple feet to a few inches in front of the tractor sliding a bit doesn't seem to be a good idea.


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