# Block heaters



## MrLuggs (Dec 14, 2015)

Seems like every time I go to fire up my tractor in the frozen tundra that is Michigan, it fails to kick over when the temp falls below about 35f. Getting really annoying to not have equipment when you need it. I don't have access to a heated shop, and I think the wife would have something to say if her car went out in the hay barn and the tractor went in the garage 

Have you guys used the magnetic engine block heaters Kat's Handi-heat etc? Or any other sort of plug in winter helper? Running 10w-30 in it, I know I could go down to a 0w-20 or similar which would help a little.


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## 8350HiTech (Jul 26, 2013)

I think I'd choose a little more permanent model than magnetic if at all possible.

What tractor is it that won't start? 35 seems too warm for starting problems unless there is another underlying problem.


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## MrLuggs (Dec 14, 2015)

8350HiTech said:


> I think I'd choose a little more permanent model than magnetic if at all possible.
> 
> What tractor is it that won't start? 35 seems too warm for starting problems unless there is another underlying problem.


It's an Agco LT75 (my biggest equipment purchase regret)

At 35f it'll turn over for 20 seconds before it fires, today in 22f temps, wouldn't fire up at all.


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## MrLuggs (Dec 14, 2015)

By permanent, you're thinking like a welch/core plug heater? Growing up in Australia, I'm so unaccustomed to having stuff not start due to cold... overheating on the other hand, very, very familiar with!


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## Farmerbrown2 (Sep 25, 2018)

Every diesel I own has a block heater plug in for an hour or two and start easy . One tractor I have is plugged in most of the winter . I have never used the magnetic type most that I use are the type that are hooked up to the antifreeze system plumbed in . Biggest thing to get them to last is always unplug for two minutes before trying to start so element cools off.


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## Waterway64 (Dec 2, 2011)

I bought a 4840 JD a few years ago. Good tractor but as cold blooded as they come. My son in law told me if you walk past it in July eating a ice cream cone it won't start????


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## stack em up (Mar 7, 2013)

That's strange your LT doesn't start in ballot weather. Mine popped off at -4 tonight to run the hammer mill.


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## Lostin55 (Sep 21, 2013)

Does ether not work?
I would also recommend a permanent block heater.
I have a 4840 and a 4440 that are allergic to cold weather. A couple hours plugged in or a shot of ether and all is good.


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## BWfarms (Aug 3, 2015)

Don't use ether!!! Will harm the newer tractors. Check your air intake pre heater.

I had a hard time starting in 30 degree weather and it turned out the battery would hold a charge. Another situation was safety switches would freeze up and not allow me to start. So I park with clutch and brakes fully depressed and locked.


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## Gearclash (Nov 25, 2010)

Ether is an option of last resort, and not an option at all if the engine has glow plugs or an intake air heater.

Magnet heaters are a joke. The only way I use them is on the oil pan in addition to a regular coolant heater.

A very big part of cold weather starting is cranking speed.


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## deadmoose (Oct 30, 2011)

Long ago I used a magnetic one. Worked fine. Sounds like a good temporary solution.

Long term a permanent block heater should be in all northern tractors.

I had similar problem tonight. Atv won't start. Maybe water in the gas line? I will try again when it is warmer. These two inches of snow can sit for a bit I guess. Temp was about 0 here. It has started in much colder weather before. Never fired. I pulled battery down a bit but not all the way. Put trickle charge on it and called it.


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## deadmoose (Oct 30, 2011)

As Gear clash pointed out cranking speed makes a big difference. How old is your battery?


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## 8350HiTech (Jul 26, 2013)

deadmoose said:


> As Gear clash pointed out cranking speed makes a big difference. How old is your battery?


And ground connections. And starter age. And glow plug wiring.. so many possibilities.


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## MrLuggs (Dec 14, 2015)

Yeah, pulled the battery and put it on the trickle charger since it did pull it down a bit. Had a 40 minute run moving bales on Saturday afternoon before the storms came in, and the battery was new 18mo ago. I even parked it in the hay barn so it was sealed up tight rather than the equipment barn that's drafty as all heck to see if I could avoid having this happen over the winter.


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## mlappin (Jun 25, 2009)

Gearclash said:


> Ether is an option of last resort, and not an option at all if the engine has glow plugs or an intake air heater.
> 
> Magnet heaters are a joke. The only way I use them is on the oil pan in addition to a regular coolant heater.
> 
> A very big part of cold weather starting is cranking speed.


Exactly, was having trouble with my 1600 Oliver not starting very well, if it was to get anywhere near freezing we'd plug it in over night.

Picked up a new gear reduction starter for it instead of the old Delco-Remy, no need even to preheat it unless it's in the 20's or colder. The gear reduction starter cranks it over faster than even a freshly rebuilt OEM did.


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## mlappin (Jun 25, 2009)

You have several options, get a block heater that fits in place of a freeze plug, one that threads in or get the canister type and plumb it in with heater hose. I prefer the latter, usually get a 1500 watt one so they don't need plugged in for more than a couple of hours at most, some of the actual submerged freeze plug heaters aren't very powerful, some of the stock Oliver ones you're best bet was to plug em in while it was still warm and leave it plugged in till the next time you needed it. Have a 1500 watt one on my JD401C and if plugged in at zero in about an hour it will pop right off like its summer.

Heres a link to Hotstarts website, they have a selection of several styles.

https://www.hotstart.com/en/home/products/in-block-heaters/

Heres one to Kat's website as well.

http://www.fivestarmanufacturing.com/kat_s


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## Lostin55 (Sep 21, 2013)

BWfarms said:


> Don't use ether!!! Will harm the newer tractors. Check your air intake pre heater.
> I had a hard time starting in 30 degree weather and it turned out the battery would hold a charge. Another situation was safety switches would freeze up and not allow me to start. So I park with clutch and brakes fully depressed and locked.


Just one more reason that I run old iron


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## carcajou (Jan 28, 2011)

I have the factory cold weather pkg on my John Deere tractors. Engine block, transmission and hydraulic pump heaters. Two of them have Proheats on them (diesel fired coolant heaters) in case we leave them in a field or where there is no power available.


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## somedevildawg (Jun 20, 2011)

carcajou said:


> I have the factory cold weather pkg on my John Deere tractors. Engine block, transmission and hydraulic pump heaters. Two of them have Proheats on them (diesel fired coolant heaters) in case we leave them in a field or where there is no power available.


And I'm sure if anyone can understand redundancy on a tractor block heater, it's you Ray......stay warm my friend


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## IH 1586 (Oct 16, 2014)

Any tractor sold should come with a block heater as standard. My NH TD does not have one and seriously looking at installing one when I change the coolant this winter. It's only $80. It doesn't start good once you get below 30. Mrluggs I would look into permantly installing one.


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## swmnhay (Jun 13, 2008)

A block or tank heater in every Diesel engine I have.11 of them.Only 1 tank heater that does heat up faster at 1500 watts compared to the block heaters at 600.

Ditto on a good battery.When I replace a battery I get as big as I can that will fit.


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## mlappin (Jun 25, 2009)

Speaking of batteries, a few things.

1: With 1000 amp 12 volt batteries readily available, you're better off installing one 12 volt in place of two 6 volts, usually is cheaper and you'll have less grief in the long run as you'll have less connections.

2: All our tractors and straight trucks get converted to stud post batteries if they didn't come that way. Stud posts aren't near as hard to keep good connections on.

3: On multiple 12 volt battery setups, they need connected probably. Positive to positive and negative to negative of course, but if the cable to the starter is connected to the positive on battery one, then the ground should be connected to the negative on battery two. This helps even the load out between them, if both the starter cable and frame/starter ground are connected to the same battery, even though they are connected with short jumper cables, the one the starter and ground connected to will have a heavier load on it when starting.

One a three battery setup, starter cable to battery one and frame/starter ground to battery three.


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## javafarmbatavia (Jan 28, 2016)

AGCO block heater kit part number for that LT 75 is 72517870.. If it's a LT 75A then it'll be V836840934..


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## r82230 (Mar 1, 2016)

I believe the AGCO 75 also has a heating starting aid (heats intake air), have you check to see it this it still working properly?

I am a fan of block heaters also, usually only plug them in for an hour or so before needing as others have stated.

Another sometimes over looked option is a battery heater. I have been told a battery has lost 20-25% of it's power at 20 degrees (F) and another 20-25% at zero degrees (F).

I feel for you trying to use the garage, with my wife, I think I would be sleeping in the unheated dog house.

Larry


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## luke strawwalker (Jul 31, 2014)

Well, we don't get THAT much or THAT cold of weather down here in TX... but our old 6600 Ford was a Canadian tractor that came with the plug-in block heater... that thing was NICE when trying to start a tractor that's been sitting in the barn in below freezing cold for several days and has no sun shining in on it...

Course, our 5610S's that replaced it don't have block heaters... What I did was when I needed to feed cows on below-freezing mornings, I'd stop by the barn and plug an electric hair dryer in to an extension cord, open the hood, lay it on top of the radiator pointing back at the engine so it was blowing the hot air from the hair dryer under the battery box (on top of the head) and across the top of the head in the injector/intake area, warming up the head, injectors, and intake and the bottom of the battery as well. Then I'd run my school bus route. When I got back an hour and a half or so later, I'd pop the precleaner bowl off the top of the filter intake, stick the still-running hair dryer in the top of the filter housing, then crank up the tractor. She'd pop right off like a summer day!

Hair dryers are cheap enough and work well enough for the purpose, so I don't have any complaints... so long as electricity is handy...

Course, if I had to deal with sub-zero weather, you'd probably want something more to be sure...

Later! OL J R


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## DSLinc1017 (Sep 27, 2009)

Have to agree, a good charged battery makes all the difference! I keep rotating all my tractors all winter onto a trickle charger. Have block heaters in all my diesels, however I only plug them in a few hours before use and only if it's in the single digits. They are high amperage and will heat up a block in only a few hours. 
The Kubota will start even way bellow 0 without a heater in a pinch, as in that hay customer showing up at your door at 9pm begging for a round bale. 
Another thing to consider is treating your fuel with anti gell treatment. Here in Vermont they treat the fuel in winter, but not in the summer. So if you have a low use tractor that's not used much in the winter we will end up with no treatment in the fuel. I make it a habit in the fall to treat all my tanks then run them for a bit to cycle the treatment. 
Something else to remember, keep those fuel tanks topped off! The more air you have the more water contamination you will get. Have learned the hard way! Frozen fuel/ water filters are a pain to change when it's 20 bellow. 
Cheers,


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## SCtrailrider (May 1, 2016)

Just a little more to add.... never use "either" WD40 works just as good and won't hurt or get the motor addicted to either....


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## somedevildawg (Jun 20, 2011)

I use gas on a rag.......


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## IH 1586 (Oct 16, 2014)

Another good use of a block heater is to avoid rebuilding a very tired engine. Had a JD 2440 w/loader that was used every day in the bunk for feeding and cleaning pens that had to be plugged in every day. That included during the summer. In the summer once it was started it did not need plugged in again but when it was under 50 it got plugged back in for evening chores.


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## deadmoose (Oct 30, 2011)

somedevildawg said:


> I use gas on a rag.......


Explain that one please. Curious minds want to know.


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## slowzuki (Mar 8, 2011)

Ok given my mf 5455 is a cousin of the agco lt, this may help. The first 4 years I had my mf I couldn't get it to start below freezing, it would crank and crank with puffs of smoke, I'd have booster cables and chargers. I had been putting the key in the on position and waiting before cranking as that's how all our other tractors work. Turns out you had to hold the key against a spring halfway between on and cranking. Now I know that, it starts almost as well as my kubtoas in the cold.

Try that out and see.


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## IH 1586 (Oct 16, 2014)

JD 6400 was similar. Turn key on and push in.


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## slowzuki (Mar 8, 2011)

So for glow plugs we have the:

-push button on dash

-half turn key

-push key in

-automatic based on temperature/timer

Anymore out there? My favourite confusing starting tractor is our AC 7010, the key has a start position on the switch that does nothing except turn all the dash lights out like a dead battery does when trying to crank. While what looks like the glow plug button is actually the starter button.



IH 1586 said:


> JD 6400 was similar. Turn key on and push in.


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## r82230 (Mar 1, 2016)

slowzuki said:


> So for glow plugs we have the:
> -push button on dash
> -half turn key
> -push key in
> ...


If I remember correctly on a Ford 5000. turn key backwards (counter-wise) part way, hold for 10-20 seconds, then turn farther (CC) to engage starter, once started turn back clockwise to normal on position. It had a fuel/air glow plug / heater in the intake manifold, if I remember.

Worked better, to plug in block heater for 1-2 hours if like this morning 3 degrees above.

Larry


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## lcjaynes (Jul 25, 2014)

http://www.progressivedairy.com/topics/barns-equipment/keep-running-in-the-winter-with-engine-heaters

One guy's thoughts.


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## MrLuggs (Dec 14, 2015)

slowzuki said:


> Ok given my mf 5455 is a cousin of the agco lt, this may help. The first 4 years I had my mf I couldn't get it to start below freezing, it would crank and crank with puffs of smoke, I'd have booster cables and chargers. I had been putting the key in the on position and waiting before cranking as that's how all our other tractors work. Turns out you had to hold the key against a spring halfway between on and cranking. Now I know that, it starts almost as well as my kubtoas in the cold.
> 
> Try that out and see.


I'll give it a shot! Thanks for the tip!


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## MrLuggs (Dec 14, 2015)

Ha, that worked! Love these "undocumented" features... would help if the manuals weren't mostly french.. thanks Slowzuki!


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## timberjackrob (Feb 16, 2015)

i have my block heater on a timer.as for the use of either I have used it for years on older equipment for cold weather starting witout any problems what so ever always use it on log skidder and track loader and when I say older equipment I mean equipment without glow plugs or manifold heaters the key is to use it sparingly.we had an 1105 massey that had an either button by the ignition key had either can mount behind front grill factory installed.


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## slowzuki (Mar 8, 2011)

I never did find it in the manual, I finally asked the dealer why it started so hard when the last owner told me it was their go to chore tractor in cold weather. I felt kind of dumb after lol.



MrLuggs said:


> Ha, that worked! Love these "undocumented" features... would help if the manuals weren't mostly french.. thanks Slowzuki!


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## mlappin (Jun 25, 2009)

deadmoose said:


> Explain that one please. Curious minds want to know.


Gasoline fumes are as explosive as ether.

Trick to ether if it has to be used is to use it sparingly.


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## 8gross (Sep 12, 2011)

Plump in a 1500w circulating block heater. All you clod starting problems are gone.


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## Snow Farmer (Aug 30, 2011)

r82230 said:


> If I remember correctly on a Ford 5000. turn key backwards (counter-wise) part way, hold for 10-20 seconds, then turn farther (CC) to engage starter, once started turn back clockwise to normal on position. It had a fuel/air glow plug / heater in the intake manifold, if I remember.
> 
> Worked better, to plug in block heater for 1-2 hours if like this morning 3 degrees above.
> 
> Larry


I have a Thomas skid steer, with a Japanese diesel (Kubota or Hitachi, can never remember) the pre-heat set up with the ignition key is like that. Turn the key counter clockwise to pre-heat.

The Thomas is a good machine, but SO cold blooded. If the glow plugs are not working properly, it will not start in cold weather, or if it has been sitting for a month or so. Even if you boost it, use ether, cuss at it, have the circulating heater plugged in for 24 hours, no way, without glow plugs.


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## hog987 (Apr 5, 2011)

Sometimes around here we get too cold for either to work. It can get cold enough it barley comes out of the can, and what does dribble out won't evaporate.


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## mlappin (Jun 25, 2009)

hog987 said:


> Sometimes around here we get too cold for either to work. It can get cold enough it barley comes out of the can, and what does dribble out won't evaporate.


Remember a long time ago after an extremely wet fall Dad still had corn to pick (as did most of the upper part of the state), him and grandfather picked whenever they could all winter long. It was so cold for a few weeks though after spending most of the day on it they couldn't get the old Oliver 535 to even fire, those had a flat head 6 industrial Chrysler in em, was so cold the gasoline wouldn't even vaporize, or if it was soon as it hit the cast iron intake manifold it turned back into liquid, they found this out by looking down the carb and seen all the liquid gas just sitting under the carb, after an hour it hadn't even evaporated yet, it wouldn't even fire on ether either, they finally got it running when the temps finally rose almost to zero.


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## hog987 (Apr 5, 2011)

When it is -30 C or colder you can pour a bit of gas into a pail, throw a match in the pail and the match will go out. I know I have tried it a couple times.

We have been going through a cold snap here. My butane lighter to light my wood stove in the garage has been too cold to work. So I have been using either and a stricker. The either wont evaporate off the paper and just get a nice flame going. But would be a bit dangerous lighting a fire this way if it was warmer, but than again my lighter would start working.


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## IHCman (Aug 27, 2011)

hog987 said:


> When it is -30 C or colder you can pour a bit of gas into a pail, throw a match in the pail and the match will go out. I know I have tried it a couple times.
> 
> We have been going through a cold snap here. My butane lighter to light my wood stove in the garage has been too cold to work. So I have been using either and a stricker. The either wont evaporate off the paper and just get a nice flame going. But would be a bit dangerous lighting a fire this way if it was warmer, but than again my lighter would start working.


hold that butane lighter in your hand for 20 to 30 sec, give it a shake and it'll light. That or get a zippo. As long as a zippo has fuel and flint, it'll light.


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## slowzuki (Mar 8, 2011)

Must be Hitachi, our little Kubota with the 4 cyl has a 14 year old battery and 2 glow plugs burned out, and no block heater. Start it regularly at -33 C parked outside in the wind. Its never failed to start, never needed a boost or ether. Makes winter much more enjoyable.



Snow Farmer said:


> I have a Thomas skid steer, with a Japanese diesel (Kubota or Hitachi, can never remember) the pre-heat set up with the ignition key is like that. Turn the key counter clockwise to pre-heat.
> The Thomas is a good machine, but SO cold blooded. If the glow plugs are not working properly, it will not start in cold weather, or if it has been sitting for a month or so. Even if you boost it, use ether, cuss at it, have the circulating heater plugged in for 24 hours, no way, without glow plugs.


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## deadmoose (Oct 30, 2011)

I resorted to Ol JR's hairdryer method on the Yamaha today. Worked like a charm. Had to be some moisture in the fuel.

Now I am warming up for a bit before I finish snow removal.


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## slowzuki (Mar 8, 2011)

Propane BBQ doesn't work here when it's cold, same with the propane torch. Butane quits before it even gets really cold, have to keep it in your inside pocket like lithium ion batteries.

Just came inside, it was -23 c last night and the cummins was a little rough starting this morning. Kubota didn't mind too much but the hydraulics were screaming for a while.


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## chevytaHOE5674 (Mar 14, 2015)

Along with block heaters as needed my two loader tractors that I use for feeding all winter have battery tenders on them 24/7. Keeps the batteries trickle charged and really helps with cranking speed when its real cold.


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## Wethay (Jul 17, 2015)

If you look at sales literature they want to sell product so block heaters are beneficial in just about any temperature. To me it makes sense that a warmer engine and maybe hydraulic oil would be a good thing. At what temp do block , engine oil, and/or hydraulic oil heaters become beneficial, even if the tractor will start with out it?


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## Farmerbrown2 (Sep 25, 2018)

Local volunteer fire company has there trucks plugged in 24 /7 year round and I know of a standby generator set up same way with trickle charge.


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## slowzuki (Mar 8, 2011)

FD is required to have trucks on float charge always.

When does block heater start to help a lot? Here there are nice as soon as things are below freezing as the heater will be able to melt the cab glass out faster.


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## IH 1586 (Oct 16, 2014)

Around here if its under 40 we always had the spreader, mixer, and loader tractor plugged in before we started milking. Just makes starting them easier. Had a 2440 that after it was rebuilt I could go start it at 0 and it would fire right up if I needed it.


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## luke strawwalker (Jul 31, 2014)

deadmoose said:


> I resorted to Ol JR's hairdryer method on the Yamaha today. Worked like a charm. Had to be some moisture in the fuel.
> 
> Now I am warming up for a bit before I finish snow removal.


Credit where credit's due... I read that idea originally in "Farm Show" magazine...

The ONLY farm magazine I'll actually PAY for a subscription for... All the rest are are bird cage liners or maybe a little above that. I'll take them for free if the companies are paying them to send me one gratis, but I won't pay for a subscription for them. I leaf through them read anything of interest and straight into the trash they go.

Farm Show magazine, on the other hand-- I keep those in old boot boxes... always good ideas in there that I can use. www.farmshow.com

Later! OL J R


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## deadmoose (Oct 30, 2011)

I have done the same before withe a milk house heater. Couldn't remember where I left it. I know my hairdryer is right where it belongs. With cattle supplies.

It is a bit easier to find a hair dryer than a heat gun in the middle of winter @ 830 @ night. I know Target stocks them. Btdt.


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## Airspace1 (Apr 22, 2009)

I was having the same problem my heater went out.. It end up being the cord itself because i put a meter to it and was not getting no current. So purchase a new heater put a meter to it and BINGO. So being the heater keeps the water warm and uses alot of electric to run thru the winter plus I wanted a oil change and a few other things added I decided to bring it to the dealers. I did try something that did heat the tractor up in 25 degree weather without a heater that is a 250 watt heating lamp. I took one from our chicken house and let it lay right under the oil pan for about 1 hour and shield it from the wind even though it was in a barn with electricity. BINGO again it started right up.


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## luke strawwalker (Jul 31, 2014)

Airspace1 said:


> I was having the same problem my heater went out.. It end up being the cord itself because i put a meter to it and was not getting no current. So purchase a new heater put a meter to it and BINGO. So being the heater keeps the water warm and uses alot of electric to run thru the winter plus I wanted a oil change and a few other things added I decided to bring it to the dealers. I did try something that did heat the tractor up in 25 degree weather without a heater that is a 250 watt heating lamp. I took one from our chicken house and let it lay right under the oil pan for about 1 hour and shield it from the wind even though it was in a barn with electricity. BINGO again it started right up.


Yeah I've used that trick too-- just keep it away from the battery-- a heat lamp that gets too close to a black battery case can cause it to melt... (ask me how I know-- well, mine "crazed" didn't melt completely through thank goodness, but it's not good for the battery either). I had it directed to shine on the side of the block, pan, intake, and battery to warm things up.

Later! OL J R


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## Lostin55 (Sep 21, 2013)

If you are desperate and have no power available, you can put charcoal briquettes in some type of tray, think Trash can lid, light them and when they get grey slide them under the vehicle. Wrap a trap around the front end and wait an hour or two. It will usually start. It's not the best method, but in a pinch it works.


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## deadmoose (Oct 30, 2011)

Lostin55 said:


> If you are desperate and have no power available, you can put charcoal briquettes in some type of tray, think Trash can lid, light them and when they get grey slide them under the vehicle. Wrap a trap around the front end and wait an hour or two. It will usually start. It's not the best method, but in a pinch it works.


Thats what my dad did back in the day. Except it was wood coals. That was his block heater on the late 70s Ford wagon.


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## luke strawwalker (Jul 31, 2014)

deadmoose said:


> Thats what my dad did back in the day. Except it was wood coals. That was his block heater on the late 70s Ford wagon.


What the Nazis did to get their vehicles running in the Russian winter...

Later! OL J R


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## Lostin55 (Sep 21, 2013)

I used briquettes one time on a semi from down south. The poor fella hadn't checked his antifreeze, and didn't know that he should. He also didn't have a block heater. He froze it up right in front of the place. I threw the coals under his truck and took him to breakfast in town. He was a little worried. .... It worked like a charm. The last I saw of him I told him not to shut it off until he got back to Texas. Poor guy got an education that day.


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## RuttedField (Apr 24, 2016)

I was surprised no one has suggested a Spit-Swapper as an engine start aid. We use these in the logging industry as our equipment is never near electricity.

All you do it put T-fittings into your trucks radiator hoses and then run heater hose to some quick-disconnect hydraulic fittings. The logging equipment is fitted the same, but of course with the truck having male fittings and the logging equipment having female.

When you get to the logging site, you just plug the lines from the truck to the equipment, sit inside, enjoy a coffee and the morning news on the radio, then 15 minutes later fire up your skidder because the pickup has circulated warm coolant to the engine block and then back out. It works awesome, and while I have no way to prove it, I think it reduces costs because at start up, your skidder engine is already warm.

Two cautions though:

1) Make sure both truck and equipment has the same type of coolant

2) Make sure both truck and equipment has antifreeze at the same freeze point


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## Wethay (Jul 17, 2015)

Rutted. Hadn't heard of that one, sounds like it would work good. I have heard of starting a fire under the belly pan of the Cat. Always thought it would eliminate the duff and oil that tends to collect in the belly pan. Of course it wouldn't do the Cat any favors.


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## RuttedField (Apr 24, 2016)

I could not sleep at night thinking of it. As is I am always sniffing the air for that tell-tell sign of smoke. It is distinctive over diesel exhaust and lets you know enough pine sprills have accumulated in between the exhaust header and the engine to catch on fire. More then once I have bailed snow on it, or water from a stream using my hard hat as a bucket so that it did not get going enough to start the grease on fire around it.

I have run some junk over the years. I keep my bulldozer pretty tight, but over the years I have changed the oil in components almost daily, that is putting in a quart of oil every day because the darn thing leaked like a John Deere.


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## Bruce Hopf (Jun 29, 2016)

RuttedField said:


> I was surprised no one has suggested a Spit-Swapper as an engine start aid. We use these in the logging industry as our equipment is never near electricity.
> 
> All you do it put T-fittings into your trucks radiator hoses and then run heater hose to some quick-disconnect hydraulic fittings. The logging equipment is fitted the same, but of course with the truck having male fittings and the logging equipment having female.
> 
> ...


Used that system, in Liquid Chemical Tanker Transport Trucks, for In Transit Heat. Did that when I drove trash ort trucks, for a living, while hauling certain loads, that needed to stay, above certain Temps, during the winter months.


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