# hydraulic density cylinder



## newholland650 (Apr 20, 2015)

Well I borrowed a hose to charge my cylinder in the 650 new Holland baler. After working the cylinder once it started leaking bad from the top of cylinder. Do you think I bought it like this or did it just happen. I'll post a few pics


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## newholland650 (Apr 20, 2015)

What all does it entail pulling that cylinder off the baler?


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## rajela (Feb 15, 2014)

IF the gauge was showing pressure before then it had to just happen. Shouldn't be hard to remove just unpin and disconnect hoses.


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## newholland650 (Apr 20, 2015)

Well see the gauge never worked until I charged the cylinder but now it's leaking bad but the gauge is working. The needle did move. I posted 2 pics of it. Wonder how much to reseal that thing?


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## rajela (Feb 15, 2014)

Seal kit is cheap or should be just a few dollars. What about the other side????


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## newholland650 (Apr 20, 2015)

There is only one of those density cylinders and its on the right side. Looks like the spring on the bottom end of the cylinder where the adjustment is may be a pain in the but to remove though


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## Troy Farmer (Jul 31, 2011)

Been there. Done that. There's an internal snap ring in there that can be a real PITA.


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## Lostin55 (Sep 21, 2013)

Cheap fix. PITA to get that internal snap ring out. You can rebuild one with new seals for under 20 bucks here. Not hard to do at all and once you have it apart replace all of the seals.The last thing that you want is to fix one end just to have the other end blow a seal.


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## TJH (Mar 23, 2014)

The spring is easy to remove and replace, just make sure you pay attention as to how and in what order the stuff inside it is oriented.


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## RancherGuy (Aug 10, 2019)

I believe the NH 650 is the predecessor to my NH BR750. Here are some updates to this topic if others should read this with a similar problem.

First, the seal kit is not cheap, but should be available. I bought a $60 kit yesterday for the one cylinder on my baler. I replaced it myself. Mine lasted for about 15 years before the seal between the rod and cylinder screw cap deteriorated and the oil escaped rendering the cylinder useless, creating soft bales. In fact I had three exact-same failures in the first 6 months of this year - the two gate lift cylinders and this bale density cylinder. Apparently those seals are not designed to last any longer.

Here is what I did. Disconnect hydraulic line between cylinder and hose going to gauge. Remove nuts and spring hardware at the bottom of the cylinder while the cylinder is still pinned at the top. Unpin the top. Remove the cylinder from the baler with it's immediate hardware. I removed that metal hydraulic line, along with tees to avoid their damage. Remove the end cap and replace all seals. Reassemble and reinstall. Refill cylinder and lines with hydraulic fluid, which takes a bit of time.


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## Wethay (Jul 17, 2015)

Most hydraulic cylinder seals can be found at the local hydraulic supply store. Take them in and they will match them, usually with OEM quality or better, at a reduced cost. The seals won't all come in one kit but usually five minutes at the counter and everything is matched and ready to go. Just my $.02....


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## Ray 54 (Aug 2, 2014)

Very easy to go to the dealer and buy a kit, but sure not the cheap way. And sometimes not that easy ether.

I went to JD for seals on a loader on a 1250 tractor. Price was 60 or 70 for one kit one side. But even with the big price it was the wrong parts. Told that was the only kit for my loader. So I went to the hydraulic repair shop had all I needed in stock for 30. I know the 50 series tractors are not new but they are not out and out antiques like a lot of my stuff.

So if you don't need it today take it apart and go find the pieces and save some money.


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