# Kubota m7040suhd



## deadmoose (Oct 30, 2011)

I am looking to upgrade my L3400. I bought for food plots, moved up to a couple acres of hay as well as beef cattle support, and now have 20 ac hay and another 18 ish pasture for beef. Last year my brother bought a 7040.

I used his plenty and love it. Top end of my budget. On his and mine this year I noticed canopy is a must for haying. Cab cant be justified.

Today I may have struck a deal. M7040suhd w fel canopy 2 scds and down exhaust kit (so i can get in my garage). I am wondering if I am missing any other must have add ons. No wheel weights steel wheels. Most of loader work fairly light to capacity. Do I need to fill tires or add weight? Snow manure and light hay bales will be majority of loader work. Should I look for anything else right away? Block heater? L tractor started right up in winter without for feeding hay. Input is much appreciated. Thanks.


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## NewBerlinBaler (May 30, 2011)

I purchased an M6800 new in 2005. This was the last year for the model and by then the product had evolved to the three valve engine and hydraulic shuttle reverser. The M6800 is exactly the same as the M7040 except for the grill & sheet metal.

Mine is 4wd with a cab and loader. It's used for hay production on 20 hilly acres. My round bales are 1,000 pounds.

My tires are not filled but there are cast iron disks on the rear wheels. According to the owner's manual, this adds another 700 pounds. Knowing I would be doing loader work on sloped land, the salesman wanted me to get the tires filled - for $1,000. I decided to use that money to get a rear grader blade instead - a Woods 8 footer which weighs 600 lbs and sits about 6 feet behind the rear axle.

The M6800/M7040 is a relatively light machine. I never use the loader without the rear blade attached for ballast. If you're getting the steel wheels, I would opt for filled tires - or buy a rear blade like I did. A rear blade is much more useful for snow removal than a loader because you can change its angle.

Mine starts right up in the winter, never needed to use the glow plugs. Of course, Pennsylvania is not nearly as cold as Minnesota.


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## kyfred (Dec 23, 2009)

I don't know about the 7040. I have a M5030SU Kubota with a loader that I use to feed roll bales with. I use the tractor to run a Krone disc mower. We also use it moving snow in the winter. I already had fluid in the rear tires and this past year I added 4 wheel weights on the rear. 2 on each side and it really improved the tractors performance on the way it handles roll bales with the loader and also mowing hay, our fields are steep and where I had to mow in 4WD I can now mow in 2WD. 
Just from how much better my tractor does with the wheel weights I would say it would help the M7040 also.


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## deadmoose (Oct 30, 2011)

Thanks. I will look into filling the tires. My brothers works great. His has rim guard and cast rims.


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## JD3430 (Jan 1, 2012)

I have a 7040 cab/4WD. Great little tractor. Looks small, but works big. No problem starting in winters here in PA. If you can get the cast rims, I'd do that over rim guard. I have punctured 2 tubes and the rim gaurd is a big mess to clean up and expensive to repair. Thats the only thing Id do different.


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## deadmoose (Oct 30, 2011)

My quote was for tractor on the lot. I would like the cast rims but for the price I would be better off with fluid and or weights. As for size it is massive compared to the L. The big tractor I grew up with was Ford NAA. The M doesn't compare. Tiny compared to neighbors row crop equipment but should work very well for me. Hope to hear back from dealer monday to see if we can make it work.


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## JD3430 (Jan 1, 2012)

deadmoose said:


> My quote was for tractor on the lot. I would like the cast rims but for the price I would be better off with fluid and or weights. As for size it is massive compared to the L. The big tractor I grew up with was Ford NAA. The M doesn't compare. Tiny compared to neighbors row crop equipment but should work very well for me. Hope to hear back from dealer monday to see if we can make it work.


Here's the thing with cast v. fluid filled: It's cheap up front to go with fluid, but my fluid filled rims also have tubes. 2 times now I have picked up a piece of barb wire. It goes through the tire and into the tube. The tube leaks into the tire and then comes out of the valve stem. Sometimes you don't know you have a leak because you're running a discbine, etc. This happened to me. The repair bill can be nasty and if you use calcium, it'll get on the inside of your rims. I used rim gaurd and dislike it. Very expensive, smells awful and it DOES kill vegetation despite the claims.

I like the concept of fluid, but if I could do it again, I'd insist on cast rims or wheel weights. Love the way fluid stays in the lower 3/4 of the tire.....does a great job keeping the tractor on the ground, but punctures are a mess.


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## Erock813 (Jun 3, 2008)

We have cast rims,extra wheel weights and loaded tires in our 7040! Still sometimes not enough weight in rear for baleage bales. I have to agree that it is a powerful little tractor. Wish they put some weight in thier big tractors.


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## urednecku (Oct 18, 2010)

I hay about 25 acres of my own, & now baling some for an uncle a couple miles from me, my M7040 does great. I have water in the rear, & luckily so far have had only 1 flat, after doing a bush-hog job for a friend. It was nearly dark when I got home, so just aired it up & put blocks under it so it wouldn't sit down on the rim over night. Next morning, the tire had come loose of the rim, so instead of taking it off & taking to the shop, I fixed the flat myself. Was not nearly as big a job as I thought it would be. (Probably easier than taking it off & loading, then putting the whole thing back on.) Took time, but that much water coming out of that little hole (valve stem) is what took the time. Not counting time, the cost was less than $10 for the patch kit for the tube. I use plain water for the fill, of course there is no problem of freezing here in central Florida like some have. For extra ballast using the FEL, I use the box blade with a tank I filled with cement across the back of it. Cheap, & works good.


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## JD3430 (Jan 1, 2012)

If I ran ballast again, I'd do water and enviro safe anti freeze. Rim gaurd requires me to call the ag tire dealer that carries rim gaurd and he's far away and expensive.

Live & learn I guess.


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## Vol (Jul 5, 2009)

deadmoose said:


> Today I may have struck a deal. M7040suhd w fel canopy 2 scds and down exhaust kit (so i can get in my garage). Input is much appreciated. Thanks.


If that down exhaust kit is what I think it is, you are courting a recipe for disaster....either in the hayfield or in a hay barn. Down exhausts will ignite hay sooner or later. We have had it happen to members on this site.

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachments/kubota-owning-operating/176710d1283390661-exhaust-stack-img_2426_small.jpg

Regards, Mike


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## slowzuki (Mar 8, 2011)

Yeah, the muffler is in the hood, you can shorten the pipe to clear a garage door.


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## jbh (Aug 13, 2012)

If the tractor is coming with radials, I would go with wheel weights and no liquid ballast. It will ride like a dream because fluid doesn't allow the radials to flex like they are designed to, and the flex is what aids in traction.

If the tires are bias ply, by all means go with fluid plus weights.

We were running Firestone 8000s, filled with water and no weights, and it rode like a wagon. Drained all the fluid and now have a better ride, better traction and no loss of ballast when loader is working. Will never have fluid filled tires ever again except for bias ply applications.

With late model 4wd tractors and the way loader brackets are mounted mid-frame, I just dont think ballast is as crucial anymore.


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## urednecku (Oct 18, 2010)

jbh said:


> If the tractor is coming with radials, I would go with wheel weights and no liquid ballast. It will ride like a dream because fluid doesn't allow the radials to flex like they are designed to, and the flex is what aids in traction.
> 
> If the tires are bias ply, by all means go with fluid plus weights.
> 
> ...


The dealer filled my tires, I didn't have to ask. Good point on radials, I hadn't even considered radials on my tractor.
As for ballast, Yes, I know I need it. I've had my rear tires off the ground more than once.


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## deadmoose (Oct 30, 2011)

slowzuki said:


> Yeah, the muffler is in the hood, you can shorten the pipe to clear a garage door.


Has anyone done this? I just looked at my brother's 7040. Would I whack some off the guard, cut a middle section out of the pipe and clamp it? What is best way to do this? Thanks.


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## Will 400m (Aug 1, 2011)

I have a 5030hst no cab but with a loader and no loaded tires. If you dont have the backhoe on the back it's realy hairy. I can put 11 bales in the buckit and you beter be in 4 wheel drive or you aint going no where. I would love to get the tires loaded and around here they use beet juice. It dosnt freeze and is " All natural". But it would be $500 to load the back tires. On the exhaust mine comes out right above the axle on the passenger side. The muffler is way up under the hood so it gets not so hot. It faces forward and if the windrows are tall and light sometimes it blows them along. The tractor runs super clean and never smokes so far so the exhaust blowing back on accasion dosnt bother me. It is nice when it's cold out to get some of that warm air blowing at you though.


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## carcajou (Jan 28, 2011)

Why not just put a bale fork on the 3pth? It will give you all the weight you need, move 2 bales at a time instead of one, and is handy for packing other things around like pallets.


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## deadmoose (Oct 30, 2011)

Dealer said about $500 for either rim guard or two sets of 164# weights. Cast rims $1200.

So....I am looking at new tractor with weights canopy block heater two scd's loader and hydraulic shuttle. Also 4wd. I have a 2007 l3400 hst 4wd dual scd's 315 hours.

Looking at $34500 for the new m7040suhd less $13k trade in. They set the hook there. As long as they do not back down on the trade price it's a go for delivery next week. How am I doing here?


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## urednecku (Oct 18, 2010)

No idea on the trade-in, but sounds like a good price on the new one. I pd 32500 for mine 5 yrs ago, with mech shuttle & the thumb button on FEL for the claw.


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## deadmoose (Oct 30, 2011)

Trade is good. Pd $16k new. Added hydraulics last year was about a grand. Couple hundred on rim guard this year. Other than that mostly routine maintenance and a couple minor things fixed. Most b roken by hard use and abuse by myself and my brother. That tractor has also taught me a lot. I am very happy at $13k. Let me know if anyone wants it at $13000.01 and its theirs.

Ever since I started pretending to be a farmer that tractor can't keep up pretending it is a farm tractor.


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## JD3430 (Jan 1, 2012)

I don't want to rain on your parade, but have you considered a lightly used M7040 with a cab? I was going to buy an open station 7040 like you, but I plow snow in winter. My winters are a joke compared to yours.
I owned many open station tractors. The addition of a cab changed farmimg for me so much more for the better.
Just a thought.....


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## urednecku (Oct 18, 2010)

I considered a cab but it would not have worked_ for me_ for a couple of reasons. (YES, plenty of times I wish I did have one!) But wanted to mention salesman did say to expect about 5hp loss to run the ac. Just something to keep in mind if you decide on one.


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## JD3430 (Jan 1, 2012)

I bet when he said that, he was trying to sell a open station tractor. I think your salesman (not you!! ) is full of it. I can run a power draining attachment like my 4x5 sileage baler with A/C off or on and barely notice any difference. I guess it's more like 2 HP.
I was actually more thinking of his situation in the winter (with the lack of heat) in MN, not so much the incredible comfort of AC in the summer.....makes the day so much easier. During the winter, snowplowing is so much easier.


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## urednecku (Oct 18, 2010)

I'm sure it is! _There _I'd think if you used the tractor at all in winter the cab would be a must. Lots of times I'd love to have AC, and sometimes heat in the winter, but not that many cold days I have to be on it more than to put a roll of hay out. When I got it I had an orange grove to keep up, & figured I'd have a hard time keeping windows in it, so didn't really figure I needed a cab enough to warrant the extra $$.


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## deadmoose (Oct 30, 2011)

I love the idea of a cab. It won't work for me now. Trade in and financing make this possible. New is a must to maintain that aspect. Also I do not yet have a roof tall enough for cab. If i am spending this kind of change I will keep it under cover. Cab would be nice. Maybe on my next tractor.


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## deadmoose (Oct 30, 2011)

Thanks for all of your input. My L was carted off after my new M was delivered. I am thinking of calling her Mabel.


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## urednecku (Oct 18, 2010)

SWEET!!







You'll enjoy her, she's a work horse for sure.

CONGRATULATIONS!!


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