# ideas to make a "saddle template" --smileys on post



## jamesntexas

I dont know the correct name but i need something to help me make better cuts in the ends/ tops of pipe. Specifically 2 3/8 oilfield pipe. I think the company that sells cutting torch supplies mite have a jig but even if they do i a m sure it is sky high. All i really need is a way to chalk it out. I know many guess but i would prefer to make good cuts right off the bat.--Im gonna try and make something out of pvc but if anyone has any other better quicker way let me know.


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## swmnhay

Maybe check with the co's that sell the pipe.Maybe they have some templates?

maybe Go Bob pipe?


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## eam77

You can--

1. Take cardboard and form it into a roll around a piece of pipe. Trim to get a 1/2" or so lap.

2. Extend the end of the cardboard above the end of the pipe, cut with scissors into shape-- cut-and-fit to a second piece of pipe.

3. Now you can re-use the cardboard template on any pipe the same size to mark a saddle cut with soapstone marker.

4. When you then cut with the torch, remember that pipe is a 3-D object and your cut should not be square to the pipe surface, but vary with the way the (normally bottom) pipe end meets the non-cut pipe (normally horizontal). Restated: alter your angle of cut-through to reduce the grinding needed if you don't.

5. One other option, but only for some people--- I can and do draw my saddle, and other, templates in AutoCad and then print them out, ready to use.


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## Bonfire

Here is what I use.

http://www.shurkut.net/

About $60-$70 for a 2 3/8. Saddle on one end and 90 degree on the other.


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## jamesntexas

The people taht sell pipe around here are people working from their house.

EAM77 --man cardboard, i didnt even think of cardboard. To add to the way you make it you could use the end of the pipe if you have a small piece to make a drawing.

I ended up making one out of a used copper gasket from an old harley. I always wondered what i was saving them for now i know.. It works pretty good but i think the cardboard way will be more accurate and easier to use. I think i will make one tomorrow.

BONFIRE -As much as i hate spending that much on it i think either that or somethng similar is in my future. Im gonna have alot to do later and that should last a lifetime. Probably would pay for itself in welding rods over time...filling in gaps.

thanks all


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## mlappin

eam77 said:


> You can--
> 
> 1. Take cardboard and form it into a roll around a piece of pipe. Trim to get a 1/2" or so lap.
> 
> 2. Extend the end of the cardboard above the end of the pipe, cut with scissors into shape-- cut-and-fit to a second piece of pipe.
> 
> 3. Now you can re-use the cardboard template on any pipe the same size to mark a saddle cut with soapstone marker.
> 
> 4. When you then cut with the torch, remember that pipe is a 3-D object and your cut should not be square to the pipe surface, but vary with the way the (normally bottom) pipe end meets the non-cut pipe (normally horizontal). Restated: alter your angle of cut-through to reduce the grinding needed if you don't.
> 
> 5. One other option, but only for some people--- I can and do draw my saddle, and other, templates in AutoCad and then print them out, ready to use.


Never thought of the autocad then print. Of course the autocad program I had I've never used it enough to become proficient, in my case trial and error with a chunk of pipe and the plasma cutter would very likely be faster than cussing at a program.

When we installed our grain leg we made the deadheads out of 3/16" steam pipe. Dad was a union tin knocker back in the day when everything was laid out by hand. Standard angles can also be laid out with a couple of pins and strings.

We had some 8" stove pipe and laid the saddles out while it was flat, cut out with tin snips then wrapped those around the down pipes and transferred with soapstone.


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## Bonfire

I have used it extensively. When your cutting post after post, it helps to speed things up. Makes a nice fit. Nice to weld up. That 3D object, you need to take that into account. Keeping the torch tip flat against the bevel of the template allows that. At the bottom of the saddle, you will be cutting at a 45 degree angle. At the top, it will be 90.

When I build fence corners and the brace pipe has an odd angle to the corner or, more importantly, when the brace pipe is a smaller diameter than the corner pipe. I found a website that will auto cad the template. Print it off, cut it out and wrap it around the pipe. You need to input both pipe diameters and the angle at which they meet. I lay everything out flat like it would be in the ground, then use a protractor to find the angle. Time consuming but works well. Problem is paper doesn't tend to last long around torch cut metal.


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## mlappin

Bonfire said:


> I have used it extensively. When your cutting post after post, it helps to speed things up. Makes a nice fit. Nice to weld up. That 3D object, you need to take that into account. Keeping the torch tip flat against the bevel of the template allows that. At the bottom of the saddle, you will be cutting at a 45 degree angle. At the top, it will be 90.
> 
> When I build fence corners and the brace pipe has an odd angle to the corner or, more importantly, when the brace pipe is a smaller diameter than the corner pipe. I found a website that will auto cad the template. Print it off, cut it out and wrap it around the pipe. You need to input both pipe diameters and the angle at which they meet. I lay everything out flat like it would be in the ground, then use a protractor to find the angle. Time consuming but works well. Problem is paper doesn't tend to last long around torch cut metal.


Could you post that website? I might need to make a few more deadheads someday.


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## Bonfire

http://www.metalgeek.com/static/cope.pcgi

Diameter 1 will be the pipe you cut. Lots of explanation if you scroll down below the calculator.


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## eam77

I have not been doing any saddles or angled contact brace posts lately. I have changed my styles to use 1" sucker rod for braces and for top-of-corral. 1" sucker rod has plenty of column strength to use as a post brace, and is easier to use and cheaper than pipe.

The end is just chop-saw mitered-no grinding- good enough fit for direct clean weld. For post brace- I heat and hand bend the angle. (where on pipe I angle cut each piece and welded).

Now I realize that sometimes appearance counts - and desired appearance trumps efficiency and lower cost.


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## mlappin

Bonfire said:


> http://www.metalgeek.com/static/cope.pcgi
> 
> Diameter 1 will be the pipe you cut. Lots of explanation if you scroll down below the calculator.


Hmm...seems to work, just can't make it print out correctly. Might not like Mac's.

Also tried it in Firefox. Small patterns work fine, cannot make a 8 inch pattern print correctly.


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