# KY 31 fescue conundrum



## 144e (3 mo ago)

I live about 30 min south of KC and I have a small 5 acre piece of pasture ground that is primarily ky31 with some clover in it. It yields well, that not the problem though. The issue is I have brood mares and have been having issues getting them bred the last couple years. After no luck with May-June breeding again this year I pulled mares off and dry lotted them with bought hay and then mares rebred in July-August just fine. So real sure that the fescue is a major contributor to most of the breeding problems we been having ever since we have moved here few years ago. 
Now to the question. I know that it is best to eradicate the KY31 and replace with either a novel fescue or other cool season grass. My understanding is it is best to spray-smother-spray-seed for this. We have already had 2 hard frosts (in the 20's) so guessing my window to spray is not until next spring now. If I spray in the spring, my smother crops are limited to sounds like teff grass, since most normal used warm season annuals are not recommended for horses. I only have access to no-till drill and being told that sowing teff with no-till usually doesn't work due to the small seed size and needing 1/4 sew depth with firm seed bed. 
Another option I'm considering is to just spray once fescue starts to green up in the early spring and then no-till Orchard grass in it. I understand that will not kill out all the fescue but would hope for enough OG to dilute the fescue to acceptable levels. I'm assuming that would have repeat this as OG thins out and fescue starts to take over.
So i'm wondering if others have tried teff with no-till as well as what would be some other smother options for my scenario might be? 
Also what type of results should a person expect with spray fescue in early spring only, then seed OG imediately following? 
I guess my worst case is to spray in spring leave fallow over summer and spray again in early fall and then sew new seed then.
Appreciate all responses


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## rjmoses (Apr 4, 2010)

If you have been letting your pasture go to seed in past years, you have a seed bank of about 5 years built up. This means that seeds already in the soil which will continue to germinate. My understanding is that the fungus that causes breeding problems in KY31 lives in the seed head, so you might try mowing it just as the seed head is starting to show.

Ralph


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## hoopgary93 (Dec 20, 2021)

rjmoses said:


> If you have been letting your pasture go to seed in past years, you have a seed bank of about 5 years built up. This means that seeds already in the soil which will continue to germinate. My understanding is that the fungus that causes breeding problems in KY31 lives in the seed head, so you might try mowing it just as the seed head is starting to show.
> 
> Ralph


We raise Tennessee Walkers here in Ohio and have fescue for pasture and we have never had a problem breeding when they come into heat...the only time we take them off is when there getting close an feed them timothy hay in the winter


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## hoopgary93 (Dec 20, 2021)

hoopgary93 said:


> We raise Tennessee Walkers here in Ohio and have fescue for pasture and we have never had a problem breeding when they come into heat...the only time we take them off is when there getting close an feed them timothy hay in the winter


Fescue does make the afterbirth tougher


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## 144e (3 mo ago)

rjmoses said:


> If you have been letting your pasture go to seed in past years, you have a seed bank of about 5 years built up. This means that seeds already in the soil which will continue to germinate. My understanding is that the fungus that causes breeding problems in KY31 lives in the seed head, so you might try mowing it just as the seed head is starting to show.
> 
> Ralph


Thanks, sound advice!


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## 144e (3 mo ago)

hoopgary93 said:


> Fescue does make the afterbirth tougher


How soon do you pull them off before foaling?


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## hoopgary93 (Dec 20, 2021)

144e said:


> How soon do you pull them off before foaling?


Around 3 ro 4 months...depends when your mare came into heat...that is just what we do...im just giving my 2 cents worth cause if anything is better than i am all ears...plus i love to read what others have wrote on here an learn something different..
We did have a nice double registered rspotted racking mare one time an she wouldnt take...called the vet an he came an cleaned her out an she was bred the next cycle so i hope this helps


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## ttazzman (Sep 29, 2019)

my female unit just went to a seminar on this subject at MU this weekend here are basics
get off the fescue minimum of 30 days before due date

issues caused by the fungus

mare
prolonged gestational length
poor uder development
thickened placenta
difficult birth and retained fetal membranes
loss of pregnancy....or difficulty breeding
possible death
founder

newborn foal
weakness lethargy, lack of intrest in nursing
overly mature apearing foals with "dumb behavior" due to oxygen deprivation
failure of passive immunity transfer from mare (colostrum)
possible death

thats the bullet points


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## TWH forage (8 d ago)

Toxic fescue is toxic to everything, not just pregnant mares. If you don't believe me, do the research.


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## Ox76 (Oct 22, 2018)

Let's not forget the toxicity is very low until the seed starts forming, then it rises in an exponential manner. The graphs showing the endophyte levels is quite stunning. Early cut fescue is almost endophyte free. After maturity it's very high. Just something else to think about...


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## rjmoses (Apr 4, 2010)

Ox76 said:


> Let's not forget the toxicity is very low until the seed starts forming, then it rises in an exponential manner. The graphs showing the endophyte levels is quite stunning. Early cut fescue is almost endophyte free. After maturity it's very high. Just something else to thing about...


That's because the fungus lives primarily in the seed head.

Ralph


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