# Deere 7000 planter



## Bgriffin856 (Nov 13, 2013)

Finally got a replacement for the old 1240 last weekend, a JD 7000 very clean, well maintained everything tight and straight. No insecticide, no monitor, is plumbed to run off one remote. Paid less than half of what well used ones go for around here. Being new to a plateless planter just wondering what to look for and to keep adjusted/maintained to have optimum performance


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## Gearclash (Nov 25, 2010)

Good old planters. I would suggest having the metering units checked on a test stand. Age is almost as important a consideration as use on the metering components. My JD mechanic friend told me once IIRC that the optimum ground speed is whatever gets 100 rpm at the finger pick up. That rule may not apply if there are Precision components involved.


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## IHCman (Aug 27, 2011)

Can't help you with the planter as I use an 800 cyclo. Looks like you need a new seat on the tractor though. If your interested, check out the low profile suspension seats from Northern Tool. I put one on Dads 656 standard. Best money I ever spent. The old seat had no suspension, just whatever foam was in the cushion and your spine was the suspension. This new seat does sit up an inch or two higher but not a problem. Almost bolted right on Dads 656, just had to slot out two holes a little bit.


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## Widairy (Jan 1, 2016)

I have a 7000 myself and have planted a lot of acres over the years. They are a nice simple rig to work with. If I were in your shoes it would inspect all the drive chains and springs first. Then I would look at the actual seed meters. I would simply disengage the drive and tip/remove each hopper to see how hard they are to turn by hand. They should have resistance but you should be able to spin the meter. If that seems fine I'd put some seed in each and do a short run on the driveway to see what kind of consistency they are giving. If they coincide with the settings from the book I'd call it good. If you want to get a little more particular you could take the seed meters out and take them to your local Deere dealer. They should have a machine to test them for accuracy. Last time I put anything into the seed meters for mine I upgraded the internals to "presicion" parts you can order through shoup. It all depends on how many acres you are planning on planting and how far you want to go with getting stuff running "right".


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## luke strawwalker (Jul 31, 2014)

Upgraded to a 7100 (3 point version of the 7000) back in 1997 after we lost a crop to drought from losing all the moisture at planting using an old blackland "lister" planter that we'd been using since dirt was new. They're a fantastic planter compared to any of the older designs.

First thing to check is all the disk and wheel bearings, both guage wheels and press wheels. Everything should rotate true and freely without wobbling or excess resistance. The blades should touch slightly for about 1.5-2 inches in the front and not be worn down to less than about 13.5 inches, if memory serves. Excessively worn down opener blades and a "gap" between the blades at the front (blades not lightly contacting one another) will cause a "W" shaped furrow instead of a clean "V" shape, which will screw up planting depth accuracy and can also cause excessive hairpinning of residue, since worn blades won't cut as cleanly through it. Blades aren't too expensive or hard to replace, and can be shimmed (or shims removed) to restore the contact to the proper amount as the blades wear. Blade life really depends on your soils and presence of any rocks.

Next check the guage wheels. Tires should be in decent shape and LIGHTLY contact the blades when in the ground in planting position. The arms and pins can wear and allow the wheels to 'cock out' away from the disks-- this can cause seed trench "blowout" and excessive rooster-tailing of dry dirt from the surface into the seed trench behind the opener blades, slowing germination and affecting planting depth and accuracy. There's a ton of different aftermarket solutions to fix worn arms or pivot pins that can't be adjusted back to the proper clearance with shims. Get a Shoup catalog from shoupparts.com as they're the best source I've found. The wheels shouldn't wobble and again, the bearings should turn smooth and even. If you have to remove the wheels (take the arm off the pivot pin on the unit shank) check the blade scrapers-- depending on your soil they can be pretty important to how well things work. They should not be worn too badly and should lightly touch the blades.

Inspect the seed tube for excess wear and the tube guide/guard at the bottom of the shank behind the seed tube. This guard/guide acts as an INTERNAL scraper for the inside surfaces of the blades as well as protecting the seed tube from wear from the disks on either side. The seed tube is retained by a pin near the top of the shank and can move slightly-- over time it can ride over by a disk and get badly worn as the plastic tube wears away from the sides against the disks. Tubes with worn edges should probably be replaced, as it can cause the seed to bounce and affect placement and depth accuracy. If you've got a planter with monitor, the seed sensors are located partway down the tube-- get a sensor "bottle brush" to keep them clean as you'll need it!

Next, check the press wheels. Again, the bearings should rotate freely without dragging or any 'catching' in the bearing, and they should roll straight and true with no wobble. Put the planter in the ground and drive straight forward-- look to see that the press wheel "V" is centered over the seed trench and pinching it closed evenly from both sides. If not, adjust the closing wheel press frame side to side with the pivot bolts. Down pressure is adjusted with the single spring bolt in the very back of the press wheel frame. With the planter raised, check to see that the press wheel frames move up and down without binding and/or excess side-to-side "slop" caused by worn bushings or egged-out pivot/mounting bolt holes in the front press wheel frame "ears". The press wheels MUST be free to pivot up and down to conform to the ground undulations as the planter is planting and properly close the trench. If you have worn out press wheel frames, there's again about a million upgrades available through Shoup and others for improved, more easily and highly adjustable press frames, offset wheels, and of course literally dozens of choices of press wheels for updates if desired. We had to replace the press wheel frames on ours and opted for the cam-adjust upgrade ones from Shoup-- makes centering the press wheels over the furrow ridiculously easy and quick. We stuck with the factory press wheels though. Probably a good idea to pick up a couple extra to have on hand at the shop in case a bearing locks up when planting. The factory original 7000/7100 used a roll-pin retained bearing stem inside a snug piece of pipe-- getting those apart sometimes can be a lot of fun, requiring a pickle fork or blue wrench. Replacement parts can be had with setscrews or even bolt-on wheels, like the new planters, which are MUCH better. When you DO have to change a press wheel, be sure and coat the new bearing stem and roll pin with some never-sieze before putting it back together-- makes things MUCH easier next time!

Next, check the unit bushings and parallel arms. The units should raise up and down smoothly and straightly without excess "slop" from worn pivot bolts or bushings. The units should NOT tip forward or backward when in the ground. When the planter is operated at the correct position, the tops of the hopper frames (the side panels that the hopper slides into on top of the unit) should be LEVEL on top, preferably with the parallel arms connecting the units to the toolbar running as close to level as possible. If the parallel arms are lower in front, raise the bar height with extra stops or whatever under the guage wheel (planter lift) cylinders. If the parallel arms are lower on the unit end, with the planter all the way down in planting position, lower the toolbar by removing stops. If the unit side panels are tilted up in front, lower the tongue hitch height to tip the planter "down in front" so they ride level. If the units are tipped up in back, raise the tongue height so the units ride level. It's important to the meter functioning that the units ride as close to level as possible in planting position. Check to make sure that the unit isn't "racked" or tilted to one side or the other in planting position, from worn bushings or loose/worn bolts or twisted or bent frame arms connecting the units to the toolbar.

Next, check the meters and drives. Make sure the chains are not rusty or "grabby" and roll smooth, straight, and true, and are aligned with the sprockets, and that the spring-loaded tensioners are working properly. Check the seed hopper drive pins for excess wear, and the drive coupler grooves for excess wear that can cause them to "jump out" a half turn now and then and cause skips. If the drive pins (roll pins) in the end of the meter shaft are worn excessively, replace them. If the couplers are worn down, they can be cleaned up slightly with a file until they are SQUARE edged again-- they SHOULD NOT be worn or ground into any kind of an angle other than 90 degrees to the drive pin. The groove should be clean and the edges straight where it engages the meter drive pins, and it should be aligned as closely as possible to exactly centered over the meter drive shaft when the coupler is engaged. This can be adjusted slightly with the side bolts of the drive coupler sprocket mounting, or better yet with the meter centering pin bracket on the back end of the planter unit panel cross-piece, where the spring latch that holds the hopper and meter on are located. Make sure the chains are running straight and true. Turn the meters by hand and feel for any dragging, popping, etc. Take the meters off the hopper and inspect for any loose or missing parts, damaged fingers, etc. Rotate the meters and watch the fingers to ensure they're all moving properly and opening and closing in the proper positions, feel the spring tension to make sure they all pivot freely and the springs are good and will hold the seed. Inspect the wear plate that the fingers and seed rotate against for excess wear or damage that should be replaced. Inspect the seed belt and make sure it's rotating smoothly and in time with the fingers and that the paddles are intact and in good shape, as the paddles actually release the seed to the tube-- poor seed belt condition will result in poor spacing, doubles, skips, etc.

Inspect the transmission and ensure it's chains are in good working order, aligned properly, snugged up properly (setscrew and turnable chain tighteners) and turning smooth and freely. Inspect the transmission drive cross-shaft under the toolbar from the lift wheel frames to the center transmission of the planter. Make sure that the chains are all in good shape to both the drive wheels. INSPECT the dog clutches (one way clutches, overrunning "ratchet" type clutches) on both drive wheel upper ends to make sure that they are intact and engaging properly, no excess wear, springs working the ratchet dogs correctly and that they're free to pivot and correctly reengage when ratcheting. INSPECT THE LIFT-DRIVE DISCONNECT and make sure that the cog teeth are IN GOOD SHAPE and SQUARE EDGED, and engaged fully when the planter is lowered and disengaged correctly when the planter is lifted. This is the "clutch" that stops the transmission and meters when the planter is lifted, and if it gets worn (and they DO) the planter will periodically 'skip' as the cogs slip outward against spring pressure and it "jumps a tooth", which of course will cause a skip on all the rows at once. The cog teeth faces should be EXACTLY PERPENDICULAR to the outer face of the clutch hub, and EXACTLY PARALLEL with the planter drive cross-shaft between the wheels. Be sure to grease this clutch per the recommendations of the manual.

If you plan to use the dry fertilizer attachment, make sure that the drive for it is all in good condition and not binding or otherwise causing any excess drag or "jerkiness" in the planter transmission and drives-- anything that will "feed back" and cause jerks or binding in the planter meter drive train will cause spacing irregularities, skips, or doubles.

If you plan to plant soybeans or milo or any other seed with this planter than corn through the finger meters, I HIGHLY recommend getting a set of good used Kinze brush meters-- that's what we used for planting soybeans, sorghum, and cotton, and they will plant those crops like a sewing machine! FAR superior to the stupid "feed cups" that Deere offered for other crops than corn using the same hoppers and meter drives. They attach exactly like a finger meter to the hopper base frame and hopper itself and are a "drop in" replacement.

That should about do it, I think. Any questions just ask.

Later and good luck and congrats on a nice planter purchase! With a little TLC she'll plant right up there with the latest and greatest ones out there for many many years!

OL J R


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## Vol (Jul 5, 2009)

Keep some graphite on hand.

Regards, Mike


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## Bgriffin856 (Nov 13, 2013)

Thanks everyone. Luke I think you covered everything I was looking, for lot of info that I didn't know that'll come in handy. Seed opening disks are, from the best I could measure around 14 inches across. Couple press wheels have a tad more play in them than I'd like but overall I think it'll get this year through. Parts avalibility is one reason we went with this model along with its simplicity. Not to mention all the upgrades that can be had

When is graphite needed Mike? I've heard of it being used never really knew why though


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## Bgriffin856 (Nov 13, 2013)

IHCman said:


> Can't help you with the planter as I use an 800 cyclo. Looks like you need a new seat on the tractor though. If your interested, check out the low profile suspension seats from Northern Tool. I put one on Dads 656 standard. Best money I ever spent. The old seat had no suspension, just whatever foam was in the cushion and your spine was the suspension. This new seat does sit up an inch or two higher but not a problem. Almost bolted right on Dads 656, just had to slot out two holes a little bit.


I was impressed the tractor supply one lasted as long as it did, about 13 years. Not sure what the plan is for it, luckily I am not the primary operator. I like the idea of the suspension seat definitely would be more comfortable especially for raking hay. Might have to check into it

On a side note we got the lights all rewired  hence the lack of the hood....have to tear half the tractor apart to get under the dash :blink:


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## Vol (Jul 5, 2009)

Graphite is used to help lubricate the corn and bean cups as they feed the seed. Drop a little into the the bottom openings to start out with if the planter hasn't been used in awhile. You can add it directly to the seed boxes(with seed) also.

Regards, Mike


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## swmnhay (Jun 13, 2008)

If you have play in the press wheel bearings I'd replace the bearing before you start.Or you can wait until it locks up and you drive 1/2 way across the field digging a trench plowing your seed out.Or it falls off and you walk 1/2 way across the field looking for it.


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## Vol (Jul 5, 2009)

swmnhay said:


> If you have play in the press wheel bearings I'd replace the bearing before you start.Or you can wait until it locks up and you drive 1/2 way across the field digging a trench plowing your seed out.Or it falls off and you walk 1/2 way across the field looking for it.


Spoken like a experienced hand!

Regards, Mike


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## luke strawwalker (Jul 31, 2014)

Bgriffin856 said:


> Thanks everyone. Luke I think you covered everything I was looking, for lot of info that I didn't know that'll come in handy. Seed opening disks are, from the best I could measure around 14 inches across. Couple press wheels have a tad more play in them than I'd like but overall I think it'll get this year through. Parts avalibility is one reason we went with this model along with its simplicity. Not to mention all the upgrades that can be had
> 
> When is graphite needed Mike? I've heard of it being used never really knew why though


Graphite lubes the seed a little so it flows through the meter better. You can get a tub of the stuff pretty cheap from the ag supply's.

Just dust a couple teaspoons or so of it over the top of the seed once you've refilled your hoppers-- it'll work it's way down with the seed and coat the seed as it plants, lubing the sliding surfaces of the fingers and meter.

Don't use talc-- that's for air planters.

Later! OL J R


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## luke strawwalker (Jul 31, 2014)

swmnhay said:


> If you have play in the press wheel bearings I'd replace the bearing before you start.Or you can wait until it locks up and you drive 1/2 way across the field digging a trench plowing your seed out.Or it falls off and you walk 1/2 way across the field looking for it.


Yep... and you can buy the press wheels already set to go-- not a whole lot higher than the bearing, actually, at least for the plastic wheels (which is about all you can get anymore).  Just make sure it matches the style of bearing stem you have... (probably a roll-pin retained style on a planter that age). If in doubt, take the old one off first.

The press wheel bearings take a lot of abuse because they're the first thing to hit the ground when you lower the planter and the last thing to come up out of the ground when you pick up at the end for a turn. Plus, they're the farthest from the lift wheels, which means they get the most side-force from turning around if/when they hit the ground.

Watch for them picking up rocks as well if you have rocks in your soil... they especially love to pinch those fist-sized ones right between the wheels and lock up solid, and turn into a dandy imitation of a plow.

Later and good luck! OL J R


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## swmnhay (Jun 13, 2008)

luke strawwalker said:


> Yep... and you can buy the press wheels already set to go-- not a whole lot higher than the bearing, actually,


Complete press wheel is $36.A bearing is $7.50 from Shoup

Nice to have a complete spare for a quick change in the field.

But just replace any bearing that feels rough or has any play preseason is good preventative maintenance.


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## IH 1586 (Oct 16, 2014)

Same model I had. If you have some crap seed you could run it a little and get an idea how consistent it is dropping seeds. The diameter of the fertilizer disk look like they may be worn down good. Good chance that Gallup would have some on hand you could get a measurement from.


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## luke strawwalker (Jul 31, 2014)

swmnhay said:


> Complete press wheel is $36.A bearing is $7.50 from Shoup
> 
> Nice to have a complete spare for a quick change in the field.
> 
> But just replace any bearing that feels rough or has any play preseason is good preventative maintenance.


You cheated-- Of course Shoup is cheaper on the bearing.

I should have specified. Picked up a couple wheels and a couple bearings from the NH dealer last year for my BIL, when his "new to him" JD 12/23 bean planter locked up a press wheel. The bearings were fairly close in price to the whole wheel. Maybe $10 bucks difference.

Granted this WAS for the bolt-on style wheels, which have a hole through the bearing inner race for the bolt that holds them on the press wheel frame and acts as the "axle" for them. The older roll-pin retained stem bearings (cultivator wheel bearings) that the 7000/7100's use is probably a lot different in prices like you mentioned.

Hardest part was getting the goofy parts guy to understand that the Kinze planter uses the exact same press wheel as a John Deere. He looked at me like I beamed down from Mars when I told him I needed press wheels for the Deere (can't recall the model number at the moment). Finally I told him "look up a Kinze 2600-- it should be the same press wheel (they're a Kinze dealer, and I'd seen a WHOLE BOX ON PALLET of them in the back the previous fall when I got some other parts for the BIL). Once he figured out how to read the computerized parts catalog and another parts guys showed him he had to scroll down to see the part number on the list because "it's not listed on the screen" he FINALLY got me what I needed, I wrote a check, and hit the road.

After we swapped the wheel out right quick, I sat in the pickup with the old one and took it apart and put the new bearing in while I was listening to the radio and waiting to go to lunch. That way we had an "instant replacement" if another one went south.

Later! OL J R


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