# Extracting "Stuck" Equipment and Vehicles



## Vol (Jul 5, 2009)

Just in time for the mud season.....at least here in the Mid-South. Spring is not too far away for you fellers in the frozen "Tundra". 

Regards, Mike

http://www.agweb.com/article/what_to_do_when_the_tractor_wont_budge/


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## mlappin (Jun 25, 2009)

Biggest thing about getting unstuck is that the operator is smart enough to quit before its sitting on the axles. On our muck, if it quits going forward, you're done, period. Wont take but a few minutes if you have another tractor and a kinetic recovery rope handy. If the operator try's to back up and get out on their own, it will now take half a day.

Best way to get unstuck? Don't get stuck. Kinda like tattoo removal. Cheapest, non scarring and fastest way to get rid of a tattoo? Don't get one.


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## C & C Cattle and Hay (Sep 6, 2011)

Those stretching straps really do work! I've never had a tractor stuck but I have a mid truck that stays stuck and those straps really do the job of getting it out!!


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## mlappin (Jun 25, 2009)

C & C Cattle and Hay said:


> Those stretching straps really do work! I've never had a tractor stuck but I have a mid truck that stays stuck and those straps really do the job of getting it out!!


We like the ropes, I have a 1" for use with the pickups, a 1 1/2" I carry in the straight truck along with a set of emergency chains for delivering hay in the winter and a 2 1/2" we use with the four wheel drive tractors.


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## slowzuki (Mar 8, 2011)

We keep a yank strap in the truck for haying season. The summers have been so wet we have been getting equipment stuck a lot.


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## Mike120 (May 4, 2009)

mlappin said:


> Biggest thing about getting unstuck is that the operator is smart enough to quit before its sitting on the axles. On our muck, if it quits going forward, you're done, period.


Biggest tractor I've got is a 7710 but I've learned that if I stop when it starts slipping, I can pop it out with a pickup and a long tow strap. As soon as you start forming ruts, it takes another tractor. Bigger ruts take a bigger tractor and if you go down to the axles, you'll probably need something with tracks and you've torn up your field. Unfortunately, human brains have an optimism bias that has to be overcome before disengaging the transmission. "I think I can, I think I can" only works for trains, 'cause they run on tracks and not mud.


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## mlappin (Jun 25, 2009)

Mike120 said:


> Biggest tractor I've got is a 7710 but I've learned that if I stop when it starts slipping, I can pop it out with a pickup and a long tow strap. As soon as you start forming ruts, it takes another tractor. Bigger ruts take a bigger tractor and if you go down to the axles, you'll probably need something with tracks and you've torn up your field. Unfortunately, human brains have an optimism bias that has to be overcome before disengaging the transmission. "I think I can, I think I can" only works for trains, 'cause they run on tracks and not mud.


.

We have a field in town with quick sand in the corner, if you even noticed wheel slip you pushed the clutch in ASAP, lifted whatever was behind you then very gently released the clutch. Half a revolution of the tire slipping and you were buried, had to clutch as if you just tried to lift the equipment, too late your stuck. No till for the most part ended that problem.


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## ontario hay man (Jul 18, 2013)

Worst I saw here was dad was plowing a new farm and hit a peat moss bog hole. You couldnt even tell it was there and there was no warning just going along then it instantly sunk. We had to get our buddy with his 200hp case. I tried pulling it out with the ford 7710 and it did nothing. That spot became the stone pile after that. I hate stone piles in the moddle of a field but its better then getting stuck every pass you make.


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## slowzuki (Mar 8, 2011)

Yeah once you break through peat you won't get over it again anyways. The rockpile will probably keep disappearing every year too.



ontario hay man said:


> Worst I saw here was dad was plowing a new farm and hit a peat moss bog hole. You couldnt even tell it was there and there was no warning just going along then it instantly sunk. We had to get our buddy with his 200hp case. I tried pulling it out with the ford 7710 and it did nothing. That spot became the stone pile after that. I hate stone piles in the moddle of a field but its better then getting stuck every pass you make.


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## hog987 (Apr 5, 2011)

mlappin said:


> .
> 
> We have a field in town with quick sand in the corner, if you even noticed wheel slip you pushed the clutch in ASAP, lifted whatever was behind you then very gently released the clutch. Half a revolution of the tire slipping and you were buried, had to clutch as if you just tried to lift the equipment, too late your stuck. No till for the most part ended that problem.


Dad has some light sandy soil. With the two wheel drive tractor if the tires start to slip even before the clutch can be hit your sitting on the axles. For the most part this land has been in pasture.


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## ontario hay man (Jul 18, 2013)

What town are you near hog?


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## hog987 (Apr 5, 2011)

I farm land anywhere form 20-30 miles east of Lacombe. Anywhere from heavy to really light land.


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## ontario hay man (Jul 18, 2013)

Thats a nice area.


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## jr in va (Apr 15, 2015)

With straps,I like to lay a small counterweight (even a jacket will help) in the center of the span.If something breaks,the strap will pull toward the ground instead of becoming a slingshot.Idea from Fourwheeler Mag.


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## ARD Farm (Jul 12, 2012)

After the 2.5" we got yesterday on top of the rest of the month (12 plus), I could get stuck pulling out of the barn.....lol


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## slowzuki (Mar 8, 2011)

Shouldn't need anything on a strap, they don't act like winch cables.

#1 rule with straps, do not connect them together with heavy/metal objects, if either strap breaks a heavy connector in the middle becomes a projectile. Thread eye to eye to make hardwareless connection.

#2 Rule, attachment point and any hardware must be stronger than the strap or they will rip off and become projectiles.

#3 Protect strap from rough edges and fraying. They can't take sharp edges, not even a little bit. Tears lead to breaks.



jr in va said:


> With straps,I like to lay a small counterweight (even a jacket will help) in the center of the span.If something breaks,the strap will pull toward the ground instead of becoming a slingshot.Idea from Fourwheeler Mag.


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## mlappin (Jun 25, 2009)

ARD Farm said:


> After the 2.5" we got yesterday on top of the rest of the month (12 plus), I could get stuck pulling out of the barn.....lol


I have a spot in the yard like that right now, seep coming out of the hill, go down hill real fast with the ZTR and make it thru, haven't been foolish enough to try up the hill.


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## mlappin (Jun 25, 2009)

slowzuki said:


> Shouldn't need anything on a strap, they don't act like winch cables.
> 
> #1 rule with straps, do not connect them together with heavy/metal objects, if either strap breaks a heavy connector in the middle becomes a projectile. Thread eye to eye to make hardwareless connection.
> 
> ...


Same applies to ropes, we use clevis's with screw in pins on all our ropes. Clevis should be able to handle half again what the rope is rated for.


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