# NH 1037 Bale Wagon



## Vol (Jul 5, 2009)

What is the learning curve like on one of these pull type bale wagons. What kind of mechanical problems are common with them. Looks like they depreciate greatly from new to used. Saw some late models on tractorhouse that they were asking under 30K. I currently have a 10 bale accumulator with grapple, but this still works our tails off. Just seems like a better deal to gather 100+ at a time and go stack. What are the negatives to a balewagon that I am unfamiliar with? Rodney, are your balewagons pulled or driven?

Regards, Mike


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## Fowllife (Sep 10, 2010)

I don't have one, but several guys in our area run both types. The pull types are really only effective if your fields are close to your barn, or if you stack in the fields. Anything more then a 1/2 mile or so will kill you in terms of travel time. With the SP you can stretch that out a lot more because of the high travel speed. If I remember right you also need about 16' clear height or so to be able to tilt the table and unload. If your barns are not that high you will have to unload outside then restack with your grapple. They can be finicky about bale length and weight, especially when not maintaned well enough.


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## Josh in WNY (Sep 7, 2010)

VOL,

The learning curve isn't' too bad to just get started with one, but to get good with one takes experience. The biggest thing I learned when I started using a stacker wagon was that it isn't just the wagon you have to get adjusted, it's the baler too. Stacker wagons like to have firm consistent bales. If the bales are loose or not a nice square shape, the wagon will have problems picking them up and the stacks will fall over. If the bales are not a consistent length, you will also have the same problems. Perhaps this is the same with running an accumulator though and you may not have this problem.

I've also noticed the big price drop on used wagons, but it may have more to do with them being overpriced (in my opinion) from the dealers. Once you take a look through the pull type machines, there isn't a lot to them mechanically and they haven't changed much in decades. I run a NH 1033 which is the predecessor to the 1037 and other than having to correct a few problems created by the last owner, it's been great. If you get one, you'll learn to become the best mechanic for them. My local NH dealer's service department hardly knows how to run one of these let alone fix them, but these wagons are also a rare sight in my neck of the woods.

Problem spots to check are the mounts for the bale loader as they tend to take a beating, the bale loader itself for any damage, make sure the tables are straight and not bent or sprung (have them run through the entire cycle to make sure, a table can lay flat in the normal position and be bent when raised), check the frame for any cracks or welds, have the hydraulic pump checked... that's all the big points I can think of right now. I'm sure other folks on here will add to the list if there are any that I have missed.

The biggest piece of advise is to get the manual and read it cover to cover. The manual goes into pretty good detail about how to adjust everything and run the wagon. I have never dealt with the self-propelled wagons, so I'll let the other folks on here handle those.

I know I've thrown a lot at you, so ask any questions you want. Hope this helps you out.


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## Rodney R (Jun 11, 2008)

The ones that I've used are all self-propelled. Unless the fields you are baling are right next to the barn, or less than 1/2 mile away, you simply spend too much time traveling with the load. The SP's carry 160 bales, and it takes under 15 minutes to fill them, I think the PT's are 104, so figure that in about 13-15 mintues you can have a load. Figure out how long it would take to go from the fiel to the shed, unload (15 minutes, maybe till you back in and get postioned?) and drive back to the field. I have no idea how long it might take to unload/back in. The SP makes it real easy, I just watch the trusses, and I get pretty well lined up like that.

Things to go bad - look at any moving part, and see if it's gotten sloppy in the joint, or if something has broke, and if anything is bent.

Rodney


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## dbergh (Jun 3, 2010)

[quote name='Vol']What is the learning curve like on one of these pull type bale wagons.Don't have first hand knowledge of a pull type but love my self propelled!
They take a bit of getting used to but you will catch on fairly quickly once you have to hand stack a few goofs!! 
What kind of mechanical problems are common with them? 
They are a maze of linkages and hydraulic lines so you will have some isues with wear and tear on hyd. lines and hoses etc. Easy enough to fix most issues though. Just keep an eye on any potential spots where you have lines crossing over each other and make sure they are not rubbing together. As with any piece of equipment if it has been abused it will show. Look for frame cracks, twisted tables etc. 
Looks like they depreciate greatly from new to used. Saw some late models on tractorhouse that they were asking under 30K. I currently have a 10 bale accumulator with grapple, but this still works our tails off. Just seems like a better deal to gather 100+ at a time and go stack. What are the negatives to a balewagon that I am unfamiliar with? 
*They will require you to put up a consistent, solid bale *or you will destroy way too many bales (and pull your hair out!)in the process of running them through the pickup. 
You need 16+ feet of overhead to unload inside a structure. Lots of places can't accommodate that. We also put in three tie tiers vs: one or two and we have very good look with our loads maintaining their integrity, even free standing in lots of cases.
Once you get the hang of it you will love it and wonder how you ever lived without one. Very quick and efficient way to handle fairly large numbers of bales with no hand labor. Pull type will obviously be slower over the road than self propelled. 
Good luck and let me know if you have any other questions.
Dave.


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## Blue Duck (Jun 4, 2009)

There is a small learning curve to backing up and positioning the load but its not to bad. Like everyone else said road time is a killer. When loaded they are heavy and need a decent size tractor. My 1044 (120 bale) loaded weighs 15K


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## Josh in WNY (Sep 7, 2010)

One other thing that I have been thinking about adding to mine is a remote backup camera to help with backing up the wagon to the stack. The wagon can be hard to see around when it is loaded, but I noticed a remote camera system for a car that Autozone had for about $80. Seems like it may help quite a bit in seeing behind the wagon.


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## dbergh (Jun 3, 2010)

Josh I like your camera idea! What we do if we have a lot of loads we are stacking in a row is stretch a piece of baler twine on the drivers side of the stack yard to use as a backing aid and then just ease back using the string as a guide and let the stacker gently bump the standing stacks and set 'er down.


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## Blue Duck (Jun 4, 2009)

Where would you mount the camera? Maybe under the bale wagon? I have a camera mounted on the back of the cab that works great especially at night but is not any help at all backing the bale wagon.

One other thing is you need a building with an open front. My main building has large doors in the center and the length of the tractor and bale wagon I can only get a few stacks in the back corners. In front of the doors I can fill the barn all the way.


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## Josh in WNY (Sep 7, 2010)

I still haven't figured out the best place to put the camera. If you put it under the load rack, you lose visability when the rack is tipped back (right when you need it the most). If you put it on the tine arch, you still won't have great visability. About the best place I can think of is to make a mount that attaches to one of the side boards so that you can see down the load. As the load tips back, you will still be able to see where the stack is and how far you are from it, but it still might be hard to tell if you are square to it.

The nice thing is, the camera I saw would be easy to move around since it was battery powered and didn't have any wires. If I get one put on the wagon, I'll let you know what I find as far as the best position.


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## hay hauler (Feb 6, 2010)

Could you just put the camera on the hay stack or on the rafters of the barn some where, maybe the wall? It might be easer to see if you are going to hit something depeding on the size of the camera...

I would want it mounted on the wagon in a low vis are or a are that is highley likely to hit something....


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## Josh in WNY (Sep 7, 2010)

Hay Hauler, I thought about mounting it in the barn, but I'm thinking that it would be better on the wagon because sometimes I do have to travel on the road and it would be great to be able to see what was hiding behind the load of hay (especially if I have to take a left hand turn). The other reason I was hoping to keep it on the wagon was so that I could see if anything or anyone was behind me at any time. I don't have any kids myself (yet), but I remember how often my dad had to scold me for not staying where he could see me when I was younger (still not sure how I survived childhood!).


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## Will 400m (Aug 1, 2011)

Here's a question a little off topic but not too far. Has anyone tried to set a wagon up to unload into a semi trailer. I was thinking that would be about the right size and you could leave the hay right in the trailers until you needed it or sell a whole trailer load at a time. Plus it would make shorter trips to the trailer than the barn if you were far from home and expecting rain you could get it up prety fast. Well just a thought and wonder if I was the first to have it thanks.


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## hay hauler (Feb 6, 2010)

Havent seen that, but always wondered about setting up a retrever trailer to tow behind a self-propled wagon. Guess you would have to be making hour turns or more before it would be usefull though...

Something that would axcept a stack from the wagon then move back and be towed. Much like a pup trailer on a dump truck works, except just transfer the hay, not the trailer as well...

Might just be a good thought though....


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## covenanthay (Oct 2, 2009)

I have used a 1037 for years and love it, but then all my fields are close to the barn. I agree with everything that has been said, especially bale shape and density. I have owned two and in both cases I purchased ones that were cheap and needed lots od work-but I enjoy that. Patience is a key in all aspects of operation-in the field to the barn.


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