# New Holland discbine's



## Cornykid (Jul 24, 2011)

Looking for more information about the changes that have been made to them throughout the years. Like what's the difference from the 411/415 to the 1409/1411 and then to the current models. Can you retrofit the shock Pro hubs onto the 1411? I'm looking to upgrade to a 10' discbine and have a great new Holland dealer close by. Cut about 500 acres a year and have 80ish horse tractors. Tried a 7230 and love it, just might be to much for this next year. Thanks


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## PaMike (Dec 7, 2013)

The 411/415 is the Kuhn style cutter bar. They ARE NOT modular. They are ok machines, but not near as good as the newer machines. They also tend to leave skippers in light course crops. The 1411 is a NH design modular cutterbar. Much easier to work on, and easier to remove the bar from the machine. The 1411 is basically the same as a 7230. I am sure there are some minor changes, but basically the same machine. Yes, you can retrofit shockhubs onto the 1411/7230. The retro fit shock hub kit is a different part than the normal shock hub (I think). Its not cheap. Something like $250/hub... Running a 7230 with 89 HP. Works well but you do have to gear down on hills..


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## mlappin (Jun 25, 2009)

I don't think they were quite that expensive, I think that $250 might have got you a pair of em. I bought four, one the very end each side, then one on the third module in from each side, figured only time I was gonna need it was on outside rounds. Installed em and have never needed them yet.


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## paoutdoorsman (Apr 23, 2016)

When I first got my 1411, I first ran it with a John Deere 2755 that has supposedly been turned up slightly. It would pull it, but not very fast. I could only run 4th gear (4.2 mph) and even then it would push the temp gauge into an uncomfortable range. Have run it on a 4040 and a 4450 ever since. So much better with more horsepower.


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## Cornykid (Jul 24, 2011)

I tried my cousin's 7230 out on my 2840 Deere in two different scenarios. First was a thin second cutting of sorghum sundan, field was rough and I was able to mow at 8-11 mph, not fun. The second was some first cutting six foot tall Reed Canary grass, I only ran out of power when the mower got into water (don't ask it's been a terribly wet season I've made third crop and first in the same day) I was still able to keep the speed of 8-11. So I'm ok with a 10' discbine on my 80ish hp tractors. Definitely burn more fuel mowing with the discbine, but time is money when you can make hay. Thanks for the replies. So if I can't pull the trigger on a new 7230 a used 1411 is close. What do you look for with a used discbine? And on new, difference in drawbar swivel and two point swivel?


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## Farmerbrown2 (Sep 25, 2018)

I bought a used 1411 moved up from a 411 completely different machine they have nothing in common other then the sticker that says Discbine.

Things I looked for where sheet metal not to beat up a few dings is okay if front hood is completely beat up from Stone my opinion is cutter bar has been through hell.

Next cutter bar grab turtle furthest from gearbox and turn it see how much you can spin it before turtle on gearbox end starts to move I was told more then a 1/4 turn and it would be soon time for cutter bar work. Second thing on cutter bar is the pins and bushings on each end of bar that holds it onto machine you can tell pretty quick by checking drive shaft comes out of gear box if there is much play between gearbox and end of shaft they need replacement.

Check the rolls of course mine has a little ding in one but doesn't seem to affect it any.

Hear and see it run make sure it has no bad vibrations.

That's what I looked for I'm sure there are more things like pto shafts and such but that's on any machine.

I still say there are two killers of Discbines one is operator abuse and second is to much horsepower


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## discbinedr (Mar 4, 2013)

Shock pro retrofit runs about $70 a unit.


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## PaMike (Dec 7, 2013)

discbinedr said:


> Shock pro retrofit runs about $70 a unit.


OK, I was way off on that one....I guess I should have done mine when the bar was out...


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## dvcochran (Oct 1, 2017)

I recently helped a friend repair his 72xx (flail style conditioner). It had stopped cutting on one shafts like the shock had sheared. Turned out to be the jack shaft that connects cutter to cutter. The shafts are NOT lubricated and had rusted to the point the splines had stripped and had also effected the female splines on the cutter gearing. This machine produces around 2000 4x5 rolls/year and is stored inside in the off season. When we checked with our local dealer, the shaft and parts to rebuild one cutter section was only $70s less than a complete section and to rebuild a section requires shimming and tooling we did not not want to tackle. We talked to a mechanic about the rust and he said it is a common problem thought to be from dis-similar metals sweating. I asked about a gasket and he said they never used one but did clean the surfaces very well and painted them with acrylic paint. Not extremely difficult but I suggest breaking loose the tie rods before unbolting the cutter bar. They are speced at 720 ft/lbs.

In my opinion great machines for getting out hay. I cut with a 10ft disc mower and he can usually roll one day sooner on the first cut. Doesn't always make a difference on 2nd & 3rd cuts. It is pulled with a New Holland or a John Deere, the Deere having about 10-12 more hp. The horsepower allows you to cut 1 - 2 mph faster but the New Holland is 4wd. There is very little flat ground in middle TN so it doesn't push you around as much.


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## mike10 (May 29, 2011)

Just a couple of cautious notes. You did good by cleaning the mating surfaces very well, but not so good with painting them. It probably will not make any difference, but if you want two mating surfaces to remain tightly together you remove paint from them. If there is any movement between the parts, the paint will wear out and cause the retaining hardware to loose their torque. As an example, paint is the reason wheel bolt torque needs to be checked regularly on new equipment.

Secondly, there is no bolt torque spec. While the bolts are very tight, they are not that tight. NH has used a couple of procedures over the years. In either case you need clean thread on the bolts and nuts. NH has special tools to tighten the bolts but can be done with regular tools if you watch what you are doing. The original procedure was to torque the rear bolt to 50 ftlbs and then the front bolt to 50 ftlbs. Once both bolts are torqued, starting with the rear bolt, tighten one nut on the rear bolt while holding the other rear bolt nut one complete round and the same with the front bolt. I alternate between the front and rear bolts tightening each a half a turn then switch to the other and so on until you make a complete round which both the front and rear nut.

The latest procedure is similar except now the recommendation is to oil the bolt threads with 80-90 oil, torque to 50 ftlbs and then turn the nuts 5 flats which is one flat less then a full round.

I split the difference and tighten the nuts 5 1/2 flats with oiled bolts.


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## paoutdoorsman (Apr 23, 2016)

Great info mike10. Thank you for sharing that.


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## woodland (May 23, 2016)

Whenever you change shafts between the modules you can put anti seize on the splines and it will make next time easier as well.


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