# No Soil Probe? No Excuse For Not Soil Sampling!



## vhaby (Dec 30, 2009)

Collecting soil samples for chemical analysis and fertilizer recommendations no longer requires the purchase of a push-type soil probe. Most of us have a portable electric drill. Add a 1-inch diameter wood boring drill bit and paint it to mark the 6-inch depth. See image.

Collecting the 15 or so sub-samples to put into the plastic bucket requires that you drill into the soil to the 6-inch depth using moderate pressure on the drill. Release the trigger and pull the bit out of the soil while keeping the bit vertical. Point the bit into the bottom of the bucket, pull the drill trigger, and spin the soil off the bit into the bucket (Works well if the soil is not mud.) Proceed to the next sampling site and repeat.

This process is even easier for those of you who have an ATV. You don't even need to dismount; just lean over and drill into the soil at each location.

Originally described this process in "Soil Sampling" but didn't have the image to show the drill and bit.


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## Teslan (Aug 20, 2011)

vhaby said:


> Collecting soil samples for chemical analysis and fertilizer recommendations no longer requires the purchase of a push-type soil probe. Most of us have a portable electric drill. Add a 1-inch diameter wood boring drill bit and paint it to mark the 6-inch depth. See image.
> 
> Collecting the 15 or so sub-samples to put into the plastic bucket requires that you drill into the soil to the 6-inch depth using moderate pressure on the drill. Release the trigger and pull the bit out of the soil while keeping the bit vertical. Point the bit into the bottom of the bucket, pull the drill trigger, and spin the soil off the bit into the bucket (Works well if the soil is not mud.) Proceed to the next sampling site and repeat.
> 
> ...


Good thoughts. Good for compact soil where a regular probe wouldn't push in easily. I searched for a sample probe and there was a compact soil "probe" It consisted of a bit just like you suggested. With added cost because it was called a soil probe.


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## vhaby (Dec 30, 2009)

Yesterday, while collecting soil samples using the drill/bit shown in the initial post, I had to modify the system because the bit has excessive slant for dry sand to stay on it when withdrawn from the sampling hole. Previously I saw images of soil samples collected using a hole in the center of a bucket, so I cut a hole in the center of my plastic bucket and collected the dry sand as shown in the attached image.

The hole needs to be about 1/2 inch wider in diameter than the drill bit. When pressing the bucket down onto the soil with my left hand, l needed to use the ball of my right foot to slightly adjust the bucket position when the drill was activated, and keep the bit turning as it is withdrawn from the soil.

Using this modification ended my being lazy as it was easier to walk the fields than getting on and off the ATV at each sampling location. Any ideas for improving this system would be appreciated.


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## somedevildawg (Jun 20, 2011)

vhaby said:


> Yesterday, while collecting soil samples using the drill/bit shown in the initial post, I had to modify the system because the bit has excessive slant for dry sand to stay on it when withdrawn from the sampling hole. Previously I saw images of soil samples collected using a hole in the center of a bucket, so I cut a hole in the center of my plastic bucket and collected the dry sand as shown in the attached image.
> 
> The hole needs to be about 1/2 inch wider in diameter than the drill bit. When pressing the bucket down onto the soil with my left hand, l needed to use the ball of my right foot to slightly adjust the bucket position when the drill was activated, and keep the bit turning as it is withdrawn from the soil.
> 
> Using this modification ended my being lazy as it was easier to walk the fields than getting on and off the ATV at each sampling location. Any ideas for improving this system would be appreciated.


That's exactly what mine looks like except my bucket is blue.....ifn they made it JD green, Probably woulda got one of those  I hate taking soil samples so anything that makes the job easier is good....


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## Tim/South (Dec 12, 2011)

I use a rectangular bucket and the hold of off to one side. This allows the drill to fit down into the bucket and a long bit is it needed.

I use a regular bit. It is a foot long. Picket it up new at an estate sale for a few bucks.

Makes taking a sample a breeze.


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## shamrock kid (May 20, 2015)

I'm going out right now to take some soil samples. Great idea and so simple.


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## hay wilson in TX (Jan 28, 2009)

*Steve Orloff* in The Northern, Intermountain part of California, at [email protected] is a local Crop Advisor with an interesting idea.
Much of their alfalfa is harvested for each field and for each cutting.

I use this for both alfalfa fields and for bermudagrass fields.

Possibly the California situation has changed or it does not fit the University thinking. Maybe it has not interesting to the California Growers. The California Dairy Industry, alfalfa is harvested before the listed time to pull a tissue sample.

He/they suggested using the mineral analysis of the Hay Sample.

*Dr Orloff* has not actively advocated this for the last 5 or so years.

Regardless ( Irregardlessly ) it as been useful for this soil's. climate, and management need's. In these Texas Blackland, Calcareous, High Shrink Clay Soils.

Works well as long as we consider it is a whole plant rather than a upper third of the plant that is sampled.


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## MtnCreek (Apr 10, 2014)

Vhaby,

Thanks for posting this. I believe I may have been taking samples incorrectly??? I use posthole diggers to get to around 6" (deeper in plowed ground) and collect the sample at that depth (then backfill). You are taking a sample that includes everything from the surface to 6", correct? I have clay and loam soils, if that makes a difference. If your method is the correct method for my soil, it will be a lot easier! Thanks.


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## vhaby (Dec 30, 2009)

Yes, the six-inch sample includes soil from the surface down to the six-inch depth after scraping away the surface residue. By modifying your sampling technique to include soil from the surface to the six-inch depth, you will find that your test results will be higher and your fertilizer bill much lower.


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## hay wilson in TX (Jan 28, 2009)

The care and precision I see on these pages make me envious.

DR Dale Pennington 35 years ago suggested we hay growers pull both a soil sample and at the same time and location make a tissue clipping. That was labor intensive but appeared to be worth while.

Something I noticed was the soil analysis did not change greatly but the plant analysis showed considerable variation

Now as I mentioned I use hay analysis results to monitor fertility. With 5 cuttings there will be 5 hay samples for each field. I use the average for the seasons results to make my guess for fertilizer.

With this soil I can expect to have 2 X the amount of calcium and .75 X desired potassium.
I can not say if the potassium levels are bad just low. With very little effect seen with heavy applications of potash.

If Arkansas or Delaware had my clay soils the Experts would not appreciate the amount of phosphate with little or no exciting effect in my plant analysis.

These clay soils trap potassium and our calcareous 8,000 ppm Ca plus an additional 4% free lime will react with any phosphate I apply for home grown Rock Phosphate.


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## hay wilson in TX (Jan 28, 2009)

An advantage of this Blackland Clay in time of drought we have large, wide and deep, cracks and I have seen a measured 5 " rain fall with zero run off.

The disadvantage for this Blackland Clay is with reasonable moisture there are no cracks and less than a inch of rain will fill the drains channels.


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## deadmoose (Oct 30, 2011)

Haby and Wilson, thanks for sharing your knowledge. I am pretty sure you guys have each forgotten more than some of us will ever know about soil and plant health. Always appreciate hearing your input.


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## hay wilson in TX (Jan 28, 2009)

A DR Dale Pennington got me to sample my ground about every other year. Every spot I pulled a plug of soil I would clip The top off a hand full of grass in a large paper sack. Send off the samples when the grass is dry.

I do know that any nitrogen applied here will persist for at least 4 years.
I do know any potash applied will dissapear into the soil as the clay expands and contracts.
I do know P will join all this Ca as rock phosphate in weeks if not days.

I must add that I have learned a great deal from good VHaby. A true Gentleman and Scholor.


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## kingranchf350 (Dec 13, 2009)

www.collectngonow.com this is a company here in Alabama that sell the exact items you all are using, even comes with a fancy modified bucket. I have one and it works great.


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