# New holland 7220



## 1eyedjack (Feb 28, 2013)

What can you guys tell about the 7220 discbine with the rollers . Thinking of trading off a jd 625 frail machine. Will be mowing alfalfa , clover, and mixed grass . You like the rollers in the grass this is where I like the frail machine . Any input would be great.


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## Colby (Mar 5, 2012)

A NH roller machine wont have a clean cut like your Deere. Rollers blow crop down in light conditions. The new Holland is a very nice machine if you're willing to sacrifice a clean cut


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## Widairy (Jan 1, 2016)

Not trying to hijack this thread. I'm in a similar spot. I would like to upgrade from my 936 Deere with the flails to a new discbine with rolls. I to think the NH product looks nice but would not hesitate to look at other makes. Being a dairy farmer we cut a lot of legumes and mixed grasses. I have an uncle who runs 945 Deere machines with rolls and seems to get a great cut job out of them. Do they react different than the NH machines?


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## Nate926 (Apr 6, 2014)

I have a NH 7230 and it cuts horrible in alfalfa, talked to a lot of manufactures at the National farm machine show this year, and they all agree NH has to tall of a cutterbar set up. I.E. The cutter bar it's self, the turtles and crop lifters cause to my wind that is damned up from by the rollers which cause the crop to be blown down before the crop can be cleanly cut by blades. They are supposed to install a 7 degree header tilt extension before first cutting. I will post my results after this year if not fixed I will be going to a Krone next. ps: I did notice there new 313 discbine has a much lower cutter bar configuration. This may solve the problem.


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## Colby (Mar 5, 2012)

Nate926 said:


> I have a NH 7230 and it cuts horrible in alfalfa, talked to a lot of manufactures at the National farm machine show this year, and they all agree NH has to tall of a cutterbar set up. I.E. The cutter bar it's self, the turtles and crop lifters cause to my wind that is damned up from by the rollers which cause the crop to be blown down before the crop can be cleanly cut by blades. They are supposed to install a 7 degree header tilt extension before first cutting. I will post my results after this year if not fixed I will be going to a Krone next. ps: I did notice there new 313 discbine has a much lower cutter bar configuration. This may solve the problem.


The 313/316's aren't much better. A guy here has been cutting rye grass all week with a 313 and it looks just as bad.


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## SVFHAY (Dec 5, 2008)

Doesn't the new models have a 2 speed conditioner? I was told that the slower speed would cause less turbulence when used with light crop.


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## VA Haymaker (Jul 1, 2014)

1eyedjack said:


> What can you guys tell about the 7220 discbine with the rollers . Thinking of trading off a jd 625 frail machine. Will be mowing alfalfa , clover, and mixed grass . You like the rollers in the grass this is where I like the frail machine . Any input would be great.


Take what I say with a grain of sale - because I don't know nothin'...

I can understand the want to move away from a flail machine with alfalfa and clover - but have you tried slowing the flails down. I'm thinking the JD has two flail speeds - one of which is desirable for legumes - according to the JD manual.

I have read in this thread and just googling - that the JD mower seems to do a good job at making a clean cut. Have you thought about moving to a JD 630 with rollers? I believe it's a 10ish foot cut.

I like the NH discbines - like the H7220 and H7320. I think one thing is indisputable - New Holland chevron rollers do a great job conditioning hay, be it legumes or grass. Years ago - they use to say, "no one ever got fired for buying IBM" and IMHO - you can't go wrong with NH rubber chevron rollers. They may de-laminate with some age - but IMHO they are a tried and true roller design.

Another mower conditioner that intrigues me is the MF/Hesston 1359 with rubber rollers. They look (to me) identical to the old tri-cor rollers and are a wide, but shallow profile. The also resemble the shape of the JD tri-lobe rollers - which I read great things about - only the JD tri-lobe rollers are steel vs rubber. I feel these are "crusher" rollers and ought to flatten the whole plant/stem vs making crimps and would be advantageous to helping the hay dry. Don't know how durable they are. I feel that crushing is optimal conditioning - short of going to a macerator . Crushed grass hay stems, I think, should dry better than crimped stems - but have no first hand experience.

The 1359 has no shear hubs - like the JD or NH mower conditioners - which is a concern. They do have a segmented cutterbar gear/turtle assy's which ought to make them easier to service/replace. I think they may use (or used) 00 grease vs oil - which I think is good from a leaky - run the gears dry standpoint.

The 1359 is an updated New Idea 5209, a 9 ft cut machine. It is not as heavy built as newer mower conditioner designs, but has a reputation for not requiring big hp - if that is a concern. Based on what I've read - they are a very good machine and make a good cut.

Here is a PAMI report on the New Idea 5209 - very informative piece of info IMHO.

http://pami.ca/pdfs/reports_research_updates/(4e)%20Mowers%20and%20Mower-Conditioners/620.PDF

Again - no shear hubs and lighter weight would be a concern to me - but none the less a consideration if I ever buy a mower conditioner.

Long post - good luck,

Bill


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## DSLinc1017 (Sep 27, 2009)

We purchased a new H7220 last year with rollers. It was a clean fast cut with mostly mixed grasses. I have one heavy clover field and didn't see any difference or issues with blow down or streaking. Had some very lodged fields, again no issues. The only issue we had was some lite streaking in very very thin second cut. 
Now with that said, I cut all last year with the bar level to the ground as to leave as much stubble as possible. If that would make a difference that others are seeing?
Have to admit I did look at the Krone, it was about 5k more. 
As well, my previous mower was a haybine. So going to anything with a disc is like night and day. 
I would purchase another NH if all goes well with the one I have. (Knocking on wood)


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## Beav (Feb 14, 2016)

Have a NH 7230 and cut !st 2nd and 3rd with little blow down cut 1st with cutter bar level to ground, cut 2nd and 3rd on the first tilt setting. You can reduce blow down by dropping the PTO rpm from 540 to 520. IMO I would continue to buy the NH diskbines and this is our 4th. I don't think I could mow with our old NH 489 haybine

Good luck


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## Nate926 (Apr 6, 2014)

Dslinc1017 and beav what is your roll gap set at? When I first got the mower it didn't cut clean but better, once I tighted my roll gap up where it would actually crush the stem, it went to hell in a hand basket. There not touching but almost. This caused the air to not escape like it did before closing the gap. I'm betting your gap is wider than mine is now allowing some of the air to escape so it doesn't blow the crop down as bad.


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## discbinedr (Mar 4, 2013)

I've cut with an older junker NH 1411 with the rollers basically running in contact and it cut clean. There's a lot of guys out there running New Hollandsite that are totally satisfied.


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## Beav (Feb 14, 2016)

The gap was set by the dealer and I have never adjusted because I never had problems with dry down. we trade every three to five years and have around 250 acres, so our rolls are in good shape, A lot of people I talk to ask about adjustment on equipment, If it is working without any problems there is no reason messing around making adjustments and almost every time I do make adjustments I make it worse.


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## Nate926 (Apr 6, 2014)

Discbinedr and Beav are you cutting pure alfalfa with your mowers? I'll make you a deal if this header tilt extention doesn't fix my pretty much brand new 2015 NH H7230 with a total of 125 acres cut on it. Then I'll give you $1000 and pay for your hotel cost to come and fix mine!

After the hell I've been through with NH corporate, and my local dealer not backing there $24,900 piece of junk I wouldn't wish a NH discbine on my worse enemy!


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## Beav (Feb 14, 2016)

Nate926, sorry for your bad luck and dealer problems. I am cutting both mixed grass and 20 acres pure alfalfa that was new seeding last year.and will have another 20 new seeding this year. When we cut the second and third the hay is short and very fine stemmed.I am very lucky to have a good dealer who understands hay equipment and that is rare in this area.As far as your offer I could not begin to solve your problem and sure you have tried everything.I put new or flip blades before and after first cutting maybe to often for some to little for others works for me.What tractor do you cut with and how fast? In lighter hay I drop the RPMS and gear up to make the mower work just like a combine. I run our 7230 with a 7400 deere in C range first cutting 5.5 to 6 MPH 540 to 560 PTO RPMS and second and third 7 to 8 MPH 520 to 540 PTO RPMS. I hope this helps and it's a lot cheaper then your offer,because you would have to feed me if I stopped by . Good luck


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## DSLinc1017 (Sep 27, 2009)

Hello Nate,

Sorry to hear about your hell. Have you called another dealer? If not I would. To answer your questions. My rollers were set at the dealer when I purchased the mower. I did check half way through last season to see if anything moved and they did not. The rollers are set very close, almost touching and my pressure is cranked down tight. Beav pointed out ground speed, I have found that you must be going at a good clip at least 3 to 4 mph to achieve a clean cut.

For another view, I was talking to our local dealer a month ago and he was telling me that there are certain areas, particularly in northern Vermont that have the same issues that you are having. They were at a loss, and I was perplexed and started to do some research. I am by far a novice when it comes to plant biology. I hope that others will chime in here. Is it possible that your soils are lacking "Phytoliths" In general from what I have read is that this is what makes plants stiff. I am by far saying that this is the issue, but perhaps it may be a factor. Is it possible that some mowers handle these soil differences in different ways?

I hope some on elaborate here for me.

I find it hard to believe that the NH mowers in general are just crap. In our area it seems that ever one has them and I never hear of issues or see fields that have been ravaged by a mower.

Again I am sorry that you are having that kind of issue with any piece of equipment! I hear your pain.


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## Nate926 (Apr 6, 2014)

Guys I really appreciate your condolences, it really has been a night mare. I have mowed anywhere from 350-600 rpm with ground speed of 3-8 mph and nothing helps. I pray this header extension fixes it. If it doesn't I will be going to NH corporate head quarters and camping out in there parking lot till they take the mower back and give me my $$ back. I very well could be that the plants aren't as stiff here as they are there. Last years 3rd cutting was amazing almost waist heigh no lodging perfect conditions and it still missed 25-30% of my crop. I was dumb founded!!

What I've learned from this is never and I mean never buy a high $$ piece of equipment until you demo it. If they won't let you demo it move on.


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## DSLinc1017 (Sep 27, 2009)

Nate926 said:


> Guys I really appreciate your condolences, it really has been a night mare. I have mowed anywhere from 350-600 rpm with ground speed of 3-8 mph and nothing helps. I pray this header extension fixes it. If it doesn't I will be going to NH corporate head quarters and camping out in there parking lot till they take the mower back and give me my $$ back. I very well could be that the plants aren't as stiff here as they are there. Last years 3rd cutting was amazing almost waist heigh no lodging perfect conditions and it still missed 25-30% of my crop. I was dumb founded!!
> 
> What I've learned from this is never and I mean never buy a high $$ piece of equipment until you demo it. If they won't let you demo it move on.


Please keep us posted, something is definitely not right.

A quick question, how high is the stubble that is being cut? stupid question, but is the mower landing on its skid plates? Is there a high stubble kit on the unit?


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## Nate926 (Apr 6, 2014)

I have to place the cutter bar in the farthest setting forward. On the outside edges it almost scalps the ground. I think this is because there is less turbulence pushing the hay down on the edges because the air can escape in the outside. The rest of the bar the stubble height is all over the place and a lot of hay not cut at all and dragged flat. Her is a pick from last year in 6th cutting. Hay was shorter 12-14" tall but thick. Had to use my neighbors disc mower because my 7230 just made a mess. No high stubble kit. And the tech tried everything to relieve the turbulence tying the front curtain back, you name it it's been try. Only thing left is this header extension kit.


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## 1eyedjack (Feb 28, 2013)

I priced a 7220 local dealer 22500 next dealer 22250 next dealer 20883 . 1600 bucks differance is a big differance . Shows ya how much mark up is on this stuff. I guess I gotta decide to if I want to go in debt for some more. It never ends


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## Beav (Feb 14, 2016)

got to spend money to lose money to save on taxes


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## luke strawwalker (Jul 31, 2014)

Nate926 said:


> Guys I really appreciate your condolences, it really has been a night mare. I have mowed anywhere from 350-600 rpm with ground speed of 3-8 mph and nothing helps. I pray this header extension fixes it. If it doesn't I will be going to NH corporate head quarters and camping out in there parking lot till they take the mower back and give me my $$ back. I very well could be that the plants aren't as stiff here as they are there. Last years 3rd cutting was amazing almost waist heigh no lodging perfect conditions and it still missed 25-30% of my crop. I was dumb founded!!
> 
> What I've learned from this is never and I mean never buy a high $$ piece of equipment until you demo it. If they won't let you demo it move on.


Man I can't believe they haven't gotten that mower fixed for you yet, or that they're SO perplexed by it. I know we went over a LOT of things that should be checked on your thread about it last year.

I sure hope it works out for you. For what these things cost, they should DEFINITELY be busting butt to make it right. If the dealer can't handle it, corporate should be sending SOMEBODY out to figure out WTH is going on and get it fixed! I guess companies just don't care about their reputation or have the pride they once did. The fact that you're STILL dealing with this issue all these months later certainly doesn't reflect well on them. Even if it's a problem "unique" to your machine (you got a Friday evening or Monday morning "lemon") they should be busting hump to make it good!

Best of luck to ya! Think I might have given up and traded by now myself.

Later! OL J R


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## 1eyedjack (Feb 28, 2013)

Local friend bought a 7060 from the local dealer a belt was wearing on the side of the inside camber . New holland gave him a brand new one . So maybe the dealer is not pushing the matter . I met the new holland rep/district rep , Rick was his name , can get his number if you would like .


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## Nate926 (Apr 6, 2014)

Thanks guys I appreciate it! I will say that it's not really anyone's fault that it hasn't been fixed yet because there hasn't been any hay to cut and try the header extension on since that was my last crop of alfalfa last year. 1eyedjack I talked to NH corporate myself and they said they would not be giving me a new mower or my money back that was up to the dealer. I will be going up the ladder if the header extension doesn't fix it.


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## Nate926 (Apr 6, 2014)

1eyedjack I would really appreciate it if you would get his number, thanks!


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## 1eyedjack (Feb 28, 2013)

my dealer called at 400 pm today said we need your baler for some updates . I said ok when you want me to bring it to you , they said we got a guy on the way to get . Couldn't beat that .

I will get the number and send it to ya , Nate

Funny thing too I was at the jd dealer asked the lead/top mechanic about the 625 moco he said just slow down the frails by switching the cogs said it would help on the alfalfa . Anybody done that here?


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