# 06 Ram front end



## deadmoose (Oct 30, 2011)

My truck needs some loving. I got some nice new kicks the other day (Michelin), took it home and noticed a pull. I didn't hope and pray hard enough for it to be just in need of an alignment.

Brought in for alignment today and got "the call."

Both tie rod ends, rt upper ball joint, both cv joints, rt wheel bearing need fixing.

As of yet, I can't bring myself to pay them as much as they want. I talked to a friend who had an 04 and he did his. So far I ordered tie rod ends (outer), new upper ball joints (both) with arm, new lower ball joints, and 2 new wheel bearing assemblies. All moog. Since she is coming apart, she is going back together with new parts.

I still need to order new cv front axles. What brand? Also the box that drives them leaks. Probably need a seal or two. And maybe the shaft (s) inside? Fun fun fun.

Any tips to make it easier? I also ponied up for some new jackstands. Made in the usa. Besides a tie rod puller any special tools? Theoretically the ball joints should come apart without anything special.

I ordered new bearings for stabilizer bar as well. Lukeslink.com

Anything else I should look at at the same time?

On the bright side my rotors (and assuming pads) look great.


----------



## ARD Farm (Jul 12, 2012)

Always good to stop even if the front end is waving too and fro......

I get all my stuff from Rock Auto www.rockauto.com

They are the cheapest and you can choose manufacturers. Like a Big Autozone on the net.

Put her up on jackstands and take your time, it's not rocket science.

I did the entire front end on my F350 ford 4x4 muself (with some busted knuckles and appropriate cussing), but techinically it was nothing. Time wise, took a week. I did the brakes and new rotors while I had it apart too and new brake hoses as well.

Ford seen fit to put no grease upper and lower ball joints (yes a 350 solid axle still has ball joints) on the axle housing ends. Mine is all MOOG and all greaseable now. I did install Super U joints in the outer half shafts however, you might not have a choice with your CV axles.

Never been a fan of Mopar underpinnings. I'm a firm believer in solid axles suspended on leaf springs.... My wife isn't. Dam truck rides like a lumberwagon.


----------



## ARD Farm (Jul 12, 2012)

Do the lowers and the uppers, you'll be glad you did a year from now. Why have to take it apart again when you already will have it apart....


----------



## deadmoose (Oct 30, 2011)

So far everything coming is Moog and all from Rockauto.


----------



## Lewis Ranch (Jul 15, 2013)

$3500 rebuilding the front end in mine last year and $650 to get it aligned last week, these front ends ain't worth a dang.


----------



## ARD Farm (Jul 12, 2012)

deadmoose said:


> So far everything coming is Moog and all from Rockauto.


You think like me and they are closer to you (Rockford, ILL?).


Lewis Ranch said:


> $3500 rebuilding the front end in mine last year and $650 to get it aligned last week, these front ends ain't worth a dang.


You aren't the fist one I've heard say that. At least I know where the steel came from thats in the stampings that your front end is made up from.... From the company I work for. We supply over 95% of the high strength flat rolled sheet that FC uses in stamping underbody components....

Having said that, I won't warrant it's any good.


----------



## deadmoose (Oct 30, 2011)

Lewis Ranch said:


> $3500 rebuilding the front end in mine last year and $650 to get it aligned last week, these front ends ain't worth a dang.


Ouch!


----------



## Gearclash (Nov 25, 2010)

IFS or solid axle? Began to go down this road with a 1500 Megacab, but that has the same axle as the 2500s. Dodge shared(s) a lot of axle components with GM. DANA, then later AAM.


----------



## deadmoose (Oct 30, 2011)

Ifs i believe. Half ton.


----------



## Orchard6 (Apr 30, 2014)

A tie rod seperater isn't necessary. I've done chassis work for a long time and only use a pickle fork for center links on GM trucks. 
All you need is a good 2-3 pound hammer and a little rage! You need to hit the steering knuckle where the tapered tie rod shank goes thru, a few good well placed whacks will pop it right out. DO NOT try to drive it out by hitting the threaded end of the tapered tie rod shank as all you'll do is peen the end over and make it difficult to remove the tie rod from the knuckle. The ball joints are removed the same way from the knuckle as the tie rods.
As far as CV joints go I usually just get remaned joints from our local NAPA, I've never really noticed much difference between CV joints as far as quality, just price. For some applications a complete new half shaft is cheaper than a reman so check around.
I'm not super familiar with late model Chryslers but the seals should be easy enough to change. Make sure to check the vent for the front differential. If it is plugged as the differential heats up through normal use it will build up pressure and the pressure finds the easiest way out which is almost always the seals.


----------



## Orchard6 (Apr 30, 2014)

Also if you find you need a ball joint press and aren't comfortable using my "caveman" method of beating the knuckles with a hammer and decide to use a pickle fork, most car parts stores will rent you the tools needed to do the job.


----------



## deadmoose (Oct 30, 2011)

ARD- FC? Sounds like you are talking about a factory. Which brand?


----------



## ARD Farm (Jul 12, 2012)

FC is Fiat Chrysler and the factory is Stickney Avenue Assembly also known as the home of the Jeep and Ram pickups.

I knew you really didn't want to know that......


----------



## deadmoose (Oct 30, 2011)

Assembly was not the issue. Well known design problem with my front end. Whether drunk and or stoned they did a nice job on assembly.


----------



## Farmineer95 (Aug 11, 2014)

$1800 in parts alone in a 08 3500. Bearing on pinion shaft was making noise. So.....sinceyawas...brakes shocks rotors ball joints one outer wheel bearing. It does pay to shop around for parts but make sure ball joints a made in USA. A friend that works on cars/ trucks and I still took 10 hours to do on his hoist. Couldn't bring myself to taking it to the dealer. Check owners manual for differential oil change intervel. The nice guys at mopar garage recommended the $35/qt synthetic mopar differential oil. The claim they tried others and still made noise. Well ok I guess I'll use mopar oil. Felt like I was robbed but it is quiet now. I gave it a good breakin the following week on a trip from Wisconsin to Colorado fingers crossed. Felt I had someone watching over us on that one. Thanks.


----------



## luke strawwalker (Jul 31, 2014)

Nothing is designed or built worth a [email protected] anymore... of ANY make... At least not domestic pickups...

They just don't build them like they used to... most stuff is designed to never leave the pavement, which
sorta rules out the average farmer...

Later! OL JR


----------



## deadmoose (Oct 30, 2011)

I started in on it today. Then bought some tools. Then got some done. Then scratched my head. Rented a ball joint press. Now I ak stuck on cv shaft. Cant get it off the axle.

Time for a beer.


----------



## ARD Farm (Jul 12, 2012)

deadmoose said:


> I started in on it today. Then bought some tools. Then got some done. Then scratched my head. Rented a ball joint press. Now I ak stuck on cv shaft. Cant get it off the axle.
> 
> Time for a beer.


I believe it has a sanp ring holding it.... Ball joint, press, I bought one, a Lisle. Wasn't that much actually. Tolls...gotta have them. Like guns, never enough.


----------



## deadmoose (Oct 30, 2011)

Snap ring is SUPPOSED to pop right off when prying on cv axle.


----------



## ARD Farm (Jul 12, 2012)

luke strawwalker said:


> Nothing is designed or built worth a [email protected] anymore... of ANY make... At least not domestic pickups...
> 
> They just don't build them like they used to... most stuff is designed to never leave the pavement, which
> sorta rules out the average farmer...
> ...


When I bought my 97 F350 in 97, the first thing to take a shitte were the upper ball joints. Nothing factory is greaseable, so I started right in on changing that scenario. The upper and lowers now have zerks, I fabricated a shackle reversal unit and completely dropped the axle. Mounted the shackle reversal fabrication (which gave me 4" of lift) machined all the leaf spring pivits and installed roller bearings (greaseable) in all the pivots, installed an ARB air locker, machined adjustment wedges to align the fromt drive shaft, changed the all the universal joints to Super U's, again greaseabe as well as the tie rod ends and the pittman arm (drag link). Did the same with the back axle (greaseable roller beraing pivots plus a Detroit Tru-Track locker. It sits 6 over stock on 31 12 50's btw. Shocks and steering damper by Rancho.

Did the engine too. Full Banks kit with ATA, no emissions crap (has a real road draft tube, canned the entire exhaust system, it's 5" from the turbo back). My BIL (an engineer at Ford SVO in Dearborn, did the E4OD with metal clutch discs and heavy duty everything plus a B&M cast aluminum sump and a Hayden 12 pass cooler, one on each side of the ATA unit for the trans. He installed a Banks transmission controller and dynoed the truck at Ford. He told me it was putting 375 to the rollers in direct (OD locked out). I really don't care actually, it runs like a top.

It has 90K miles on it mostly pulling the gooseneck with hay, never seen snow and I don't take it out if it's raining either if I can help it. Not a spot of rust on the truck anywhere.

Gets 22 on the road with 4:10's and lights the tires right up (I'm to old for that crap now). Everyone that sees it wants to buy it but it ain't for sale. One, I can't afford a new one and two, I don't want a new one with a blue fuel (DEF) cap anyway.

Had a guy stop me with a Hummer and wanted to trade straight up. I told him to keep his Hummer....

It will be part of my estate when I'm no longer here.

Only problem is, you need a small stool to get in. It has Super Steps on each side under each door (it's a 4 door crew cab long bed) but it's still hard for the wife to deal with. It's too long to fit in the garage so it stays in the barn in the winter. It's made it 17 years just fine.


----------



## ARD Farm (Jul 12, 2012)

deadmoose said:


> Snap ring is SUPPOSED to pop right off when prying on cv axle.


 Sounds like it's still in the groove to me.


----------



## ARD Farm (Jul 12, 2012)

Other than a tricked 6.9, the 7.3 IDI turbocharged engine (Navastar/Ford) with the HEUI injection is the best engine they ever put in a pickup. Too bad they didn't put an allison behind it, but my box has been reworked to take the strain.

One of my hunting buds cut his teeth on 6.9's and 7.3's professionally. he told me to expect at least 350,000 miles from the engine without anything wearing out internally and it gets an oil change (Rotella 5-40 Synthetic, every 5,000 miles, which equates to about once a year...lol

In 17 years, I'm about 1/3 of the way there mileage wise.


----------



## gearhartfarms82 (May 10, 2015)

I so do love my ifs. Big hammer and good luck on your front end!


----------



## Orchard6 (Apr 30, 2014)

ARD Farm said:


> Other than a tricked 6.9, the 7.3 IDI turbocharged engine (Navastar/Ford) with the HEUI injection is the best engine they ever put in a pickup. Too bad they didn't put an allison behind it, but my box has been reworked to take the strain.
> 
> One of my hunting buds cut his teeth on 6.9's and 7.3's professionally. he told me to expect at least 350,000 miles from the engine without anything wearing out internally and it gets an oil change (Rotella 5-40 Synthetic, every 5,000 miles, which equates to about once a year...lol
> 
> In 17 years, I'm about 1/3 of the way there mileage wise.


The IDI engines and the Powerstroke engines share nothing in common other than the displacements.
They did turbo the IDI engine the last year of production but it was not well regarded as it tended to blow head gaskets easily when pushed hard.
The 7.3 Powerstroke is a direct injected engine that uses the HEUI injection system with no mechanical injection pump.


----------



## luke strawwalker (Jul 31, 2014)

ARD Farm said:


> When I bought my 97 F350 in 97, the first thing to take a shitte were the upper ball joints. Nothing factory is greaseable, so I started right in on changing that scenario. The upper and lowers now have zerks, I fabricated a shackle reversal unit and completely dropped the axle. Mounted the shackle reversal fabrication (which gave me 4" of lift) machined all the leaf spring pivits and installed roller bearings (greaseable) in all the pivots, installed an ARB air locker, machined adjustment wedges to align the fromt drive shaft, changed the all the universal joints to Super U's, again greaseabe as well as the tie rod ends and the pittman arm (drag link). Did the same with the back axle (greaseable roller beraing pivots plus a Detroit Tru-Track locker. It sits 6 over stock on 31 12 50's btw. Shocks and steering damper by Rancho.
> 
> Did the engine too. Full Banks kit with ATA, no emissions crap (has a real road draft tube, canned the entire exhaust system, it's 5" from the turbo back). My BIL (an engineer at Ford SVO in Dearborn, did the E4OD with metal clutch discs and heavy duty everything plus a B&M cast aluminum sump and a Hayden 12 pass cooler, one on each side of the ATA unit for the trans. He installed a Banks transmission controller and dynoed the truck at Ford. He told me it was putting 375 to the rollers in direct (OD locked out). I really don't care actually, it runs like a top.
> 
> ...


Sounds good... but kinda proves my point...

When you've got to TOTALLY REBUILD a "new truck" to get it to do what it SHOULD be doing straight from the factory...

Meh... I'm ready to get me a late 70's Ford or Chevy, do a "frame off restoration" on it, put a crate motor or an old Cummins in it, and call it good...

Don't want any of this new overpriced crap anymore... sick and tired of having the high cost of it and the high cost of keeping it fixed, too... (to pass emissions inspection).

I can buy an older Ford or Chevy, make it better than new, no electronic ANYTHING on it (all I care about as far as "options" go is AC and cruise control) and call it good...
Nothing on it *I* can't fix without trying hard, and screw all the emissions and electronic engine and transmission crap...

Sure, it might not get but 14 mpg (no worse than my old 96 pickup, not much worse than the 02) but I can buy a LOT of gasoline for what a new $45,000-50,000 pickup costs...

Later! OL JR


----------



## ARD Farm (Jul 12, 2012)

Once my uppers went, I just figured I'd do everything. Was cold out so the truck was parked anyway. I think the 'no grease' plastic filled uppers lasted maybe 30K miles. It's a lot of weight on a plastic filled joint.

I found it when I was rotating tires. I thought it was strange that I had vertical play in the outboard assembly so I looked close and sure enough thr uppers had lost their preload.

I'm still a fan of kingpins. Big trucks still have kingpins with hardened and stress relieved pins riding on bronze thrust discs. and they last indefinitely with proper lubrication.


----------



## ARD Farm (Jul 12, 2012)

Orchard6 said:


> The IDI engines and the Powerstroke engines share nothing in common other than the displacements.
> They did turbo the IDI engine the last year of production but it was not well regarded as it tended to blow head gaskets easily when pushed hard.
> The 7.3 Powerstroke is a direct injected engine that uses the HEUI injection system with no mechanical injection pump.


 You may be right, maybe. My owners manual for my '97 calls it out as an IDI engine and so Does Gale Banks. It's a HEUI engine with 2 oil pumps, one for lube oil (gerotor) and one for injection rail pressure feeding cast in passages in each head. Mine has no wastegate and chipped, I can pull almost 30 psi of boost if I work it. Injection is all electronic with a ICU controlling the parameters.

Getting ready to replace the turbo pedestal with a delete pedestal to do away with the 'warm up' option. plus I'll replace the post turbo butterfly plate with a no butterfly assembly care of RiffRaff Diesel.

Never having a head off, I cannot attest as to if it's a prechamber engine or not so I'll take your wisdom as fact.

Either way, it's a good motor.

Just stating what the owners manual calls it and Gale Banks...


----------



## Orchard6 (Apr 30, 2014)

ARD Farm said:


> You may be right, maybe. My owners manual for my '97 calls it out as an IDI engine and so Does Gale Banks. It's a HEUI engine with 2 oil pumps, one for lube oil (gerotor) and one for injection rail pressure feeding cast in passages in each head. Mine has no wastegate and chipped, I can pull almost 30 psi of boost if I work it. Injection is all electronic with a ICU controlling the parameters.
> 
> Getting ready to replace the turbo pedestal with a delete pedestal to do away with the 'warm up' option. plus I'll replace the post turbo butterfly plate with a no butterfly assembly care of RiffRaff Diesel.
> 
> ...


I just pulled the wires off of the warmup butterfly so no more jet engine sounds in the winter. Works just fine. I did leave the air temp sensor alone so it will go into a high idle when it's cold (as long as I set the E-brake (6 speed manual)).


----------



## luke strawwalker (Jul 31, 2014)

ARD Farm said:


> Once my uppers went, I just figured I'd do everything. Was cold out so the truck was parked anyway. I think the 'no grease' plastic filled uppers lasted maybe 30K miles. It's a lot of weight on a plastic filled joint.
> 
> I found it when I was rotating tires. I thought it was strange that I had vertical play in the outboard assembly so I looked close and sure enough thr uppers had lost their preload.
> 
> I'm still a fan of kingpins. Big trucks still have kingpins with hardened and stress relieved pins riding on bronze thrust discs. and they last indefinitely with proper lubrication.


Still nothing as durable and good as a regular straight I-beam axle...

Course it'd ride like a log truck, and we can't have "cowboy cadillacs" that they're building nowdays doing that...

Hence they make a sh!tty copy of luxury car suspension and stick it under a work truck, and then wonder why it doesn't hold up...

Course, like most things, it's "engineered to fail"... I had full double-wishbone suspension in my 77 Suburban and don't recall ever having to change anything in it, even with a heavy big-block 454 sitting between the fenders...

Like I said-- they don't build anything worth a [email protected] anymore...

Later! OL JR


----------



## ARD Farm (Jul 12, 2012)

Mine rides like the lumberwagon it is. Something about a thick stack of leaf springs that does that. It's so bad I added air ride to the back. The only time it rides nice is when the slide in camper is in the bed and it's loaded up with water and propane and goodies in the fridge....

One thing about Fords that was stupid and that was on a leaf springed truck, Ford put the swing shackle pivot in the back, when it needs to be in the front so when the spring compresses, it can move. I fixed that by reversing the pivots, no eas task, It involves fabricating a completely new subframe spring hanger weldment in the front.

One nice thing, it sits so high I can check the leg shots in 4 wheelers...not too old for that...yet.


----------



## ARD Farm (Jul 12, 2012)

Deadmoose....

How is that front end rebuild progressing? Did you get the axle off and was the circlip holding it?


----------



## deadmoose (Oct 30, 2011)

Cv axle came out. Attached to subshaft. Bringing that in to separate it.


----------



## Orchard6 (Apr 30, 2014)

deadmoose said:


> Cv axle came out. Attached to subshaft. Bringing that in to separate it.


The inner shaft came out? What side are you working on?


----------



## deadmoose (Oct 30, 2011)

Passenger side. I took off the seal that holds it in. Output shaft I think is the correct term. CV assembly will not come off of it. I brought it in today and they told me I need a new shaft. No big deal not too pricey napa has it. I went to napa, no dice. They have a similar but different shaft for $35. Near as I can tell, unless I can somehow separate, I get to drop $240 @ the local dodge dealer.


----------



## ARD Farm (Jul 12, 2012)

Sort of related to your truck, I have to say I don't like the NH CV joints on their implements. I keep mine lubed (with high quality symthetic EP grease) exactly on the recommended schedule. I heard a new CV joint assembly for my 575 runs about 700 smackers.

Thats insane....

Does Rock auto have the part DM?

I'm certain FC didn't make the part, someone else did.

Little story to relate....

A few years ago, I delivered a load of strip steel to a a nameless component supplier over by Grand Rapids. While waiting for the crane operator to unload me, I spied a couple of large wire baskets full of what looked to me like tie rod ends that were remarkably similar to the ones on my F350 Fors, so I inquired to the foreman and sure enough they were, just that.

I asked him how much they cost to produce. He told me about 50 cents each, to which I replied... The Ford dealer wants 50 bucks for a set of 2. He repled......"Thats markup". I thought to myself, 'thats ripoff'.

Thank the Lord for Rock Auto.


----------



## luke strawwalker (Jul 31, 2014)

Be careful changing front CV joints on stuff... depending on the design, if you remove both shafts at the same time, the differential gears can drop out of place and you'll have to tear the entire differential down to put them back... My brother's car was that way... Not everything is, but you better be SURE before you remove both shafts!

Just to be safe, I always do one side at a time... those that can have the side gears drop if both shafts are pulled at the same time were designed so that if you pull one shaft, the other side keeps everything in place. When you install the new shaft, it holds everything in place while you remove and replace the other side.

Just sayin... this modern stuff really has some weird "gotchas" if you're not ahead of the game...

Later! OL JR


----------



## deadmoose (Oct 30, 2011)

How much grease should new (moog) parts get?

Also, if anyone cares to estimate: how much would labor be on my job?

Both sides, new outer tie rod, upper and lower ball joints, remove replace cv axles, replace wheel bearings. Also seal and outer shaft on front transfer case.

So far, sitting about $1000 in parts. As always, nothing goes to plan.


----------



## Orchard6 (Apr 30, 2014)

With tie rods and ball joints just grease it until the rubber boots swell. Otherwise you may split the boot and water will have an easy entry point.


----------



## deadmoose (Oct 30, 2011)

Took me a bit longer than expected. Then again I am no mechanic. Got r done though. Skipped dr aide cv axle as it didn't want to come off either.

My el cheapo kobalt impact took a dive on me. Headed for trash can when new IR arrives.


----------



## ARD Farm (Jul 12, 2012)

DM....

Hard to estimate labor, afterall, yours is free (like mine when working on stuff)....

I've been through a couple impact wrenches myself and bought an IR Thundergun, it's noisy as hell but runs them off and has for years. I run an inline mist oiler on my air tools. Saves the internals.

I was wondering how it went.

My F350 has a small brake fluid leak at the line banjo on the passangers side. I replaced both front brake hose/pipes a few months ago (Rock Auto). Seems that when they get old, the rubber inside flakes off the hose and impedes the flow of fluid when you let off the brakes and that equates to smoking pads.... Didn't know what it was until a friend who works on Fords at the dealer told me, I guess it's quite common and one of those things people who don't know, throw parts and money at.... I didn't but I have to replace the banjo washers (copper) on the passangers side. No biggie, it needs pads anyway.


----------



## deadmoose (Oct 30, 2011)

I am a big fan of youtube. Pretty sure if you searched hard enough you could learn how to do brain surgery on there. Someone out there did what you are going to do, and took the time to film it amd post it.


----------



## ARD Farm (Jul 12, 2012)

I am too. I really like all the crash video's and the drivers in other countries (crashing)..... I'm a big railfan so watching the old steam engines, I find fascinating.

Some good (really stuck farm tractors) on there as well.....

brain surgery today isn't that daunting. Most people today are brainless anyway, especially Clinton fans.


----------

