# JD 2030 Clutch Blues



## farmer jeff (Jul 8, 2015)

Hi,I have a JD2030 diesel tractor with the clutch getting worse everyday,plus the ring gear on the flywheel is "Chewed" up in spots so sometimes when I shut the tractor off,the next time I want to start it,the starter buzzes against the flywheel and won,t spin the motor.I have to "Pull" it in high gear a few feet and then hit the key, it wil start. Anyway, has anybody done their own clutch job in this model tractor??? I will need to weld up a couple of "Splitting" stands to bolt to the transmission case hold it up while it is "Split"....I have an IT Shop manual to assist me in the procedure.Any particular things to look for.I will resurface the flywheel when it is out and cut off the bad ring gear and "Sweat" a new one in place,I already have the ring gear here.Are after market clutches just as good as John Deere clutches????? If I got through the JD dealer for parts, the price goes up .....


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## Wethay (Jul 17, 2015)

Don't believe everything you read about what you need to split that tractor. First step, a flat level concrete surface. Then put wood wedges above the front axle below the tractor "frame" casting. Pound them in good and tight then a couple more smacks for good measure. This keeps the front axle from pivoting one tire up and the other down, not important yet but when you split the tractor it keeps the front half from leaning over and falling off the jack or jackstand. A good steady floor jack under the front half with blocked front wheels, and a wide, heavy duty floor jack under the back half, right next to the split with the handle under the tractor facing rearward. The manual should give you info about everything else, but it's fairly straight forward. Unhook anything that crosses the split. A couple of alignment studs can be easily made by sawing the head off a couple long bolts of appropriate size, remember to round the end slightly and put a slot in the end for a screw driver. I have always used them when rolling the tractor apart as well as back together. As far as the clutch, when you have it surfaced have the "lip" where the backing plate bolts on the taken down the same amount. I have always used genuine OEM parts, and replaced the backing plate assembly, but the shop I was working in had a big Deere on the green sign out front. an alignment shaft can be made at your local machine shop, a couple of screw drivers and a good eye is an option, but a poor one. When rolling the tractor back together a tape measure will help keep the mating surfaces parallel. When it hangs up on the way together push one rear wheel forward a bit and block it to keep it from rolling back, roll the other tire forward, also blocking it. Put the tractor in gear and use a large screwdriver to turn the flywheel. No doubt it's becoming clear as mud. Main thing is the splitting stands are optional. Depend on your sense of adventure I guess. Don't get impatient and pull the halves together with bolts.


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## mlappin (Jun 25, 2009)

Pretty sure a 2030 is like our JD400 backhoe and JD401C loader, same engine at least. Wethay pretty much covered it, except I use a four wheel dolly that measures 2'x3' and place a 1/4"x2"x2" angle iron leg at the back of the motor on each side.

Did the ring gear on the backhoe as well as the clutch and reverser this was almost twenty years ago and we had South Bend clutch grind the flywheel and rebuilt the clutch with their stuff.


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## Tx Jim (Jun 30, 2014)

I've read on other tractor forums that these are good clutches & PP's. http://www.hy-capacity.com/index.php?page=Agricultural

Be sure and replace seal on the end of trans input shaft(parts key 2 & 3)


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## Farmineer95 (Aug 11, 2014)

About 15 years ago I did a clutch on our JD2640 loader tractor. Its time to do it again. BUT, we did not use Deere parts. Aftermarket there is Theobald (http://www.endurancepower.com/agricultural/clutch.htm) and another place that uses Kevlar as the clutch material, can't remember the name. Might be in Ohio? Think Dad found an ad in Farm Show. Kevlar is what the 2640 clutch was and what the next one will be. 15 years on a loader tractor, probably 2,000 hours can't complain.

Oh, when you use alignment pins, make sure you can get them out before you put the tractor together...LOL...you might learn a new word if you make one that's too long.


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## farmer jeff (Jul 8, 2015)

The wedges under the front axle between the axle and frame is a good idea....safety first.........I just want to do the job as inexpensively as I can......but it will take some time and patience........


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## Wethay (Jul 17, 2015)

The wedges are a good idea, I wouldn't admit to doing it but I've seen them forgotten once. I would bet he doesn't forget again.


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## Farmineer95 (Aug 11, 2014)

The 2640 is apart for the clutch. 
The kevlar was worn. Not the problem. 
The flywheel and pressure plate still have machining marks in them. Not the problem.
The operating levers on the pressure plate were worn enough that it lost its adjustment!
Couldn't believe the lack of wear on friction surfaces. 
Endurance power discontinued the kevlar according to the parts guy at local Deere dealer. I sent it to Southbend clutch. $250 to get it rebuilt $300 for new.
I would recommend anyone to look at Kevlar clutches.


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## Tx Jim (Jun 30, 2014)

Cut the heads off some 5/8'' bolts to use a guide bolts to help line up flywheel & clutch housings when pushing 1/2's back together.


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## Wethay (Jul 17, 2015)

Do yourself a favor and cut a slot for a screwdriver in the guide bolts. If you do they will come out with your fingers.


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## timberjackrob (Feb 16, 2015)

line up tool can be made out of wood too if you know somebody with wood turning lathe.


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## Rodney R (Jun 11, 2008)

I had the opportunity (misfortune?) to do the clutch in my 2755 twice. The last time the master cylinder exploded, but it was time for more wear material. I got the stuff from hy-capacity... in my case OEM would have been LUK. The absolute biggest thing is the level concrete floor. You have to be able to roll it apart and together with nearly no effort. And like was said - do not PULL IT together with the bolts - something WILL break. The hardest part of the whole job is disconnecting/connecting everything that crosses the split.

Rodney


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