# Krone 3200 easycut



## Bpflora (Jun 17, 2013)

Anyone have a krone 3200 easy cut disc mower? I just bought one -a 2014- and have mowed about 120 acres with it. I noticed on the first 25 acre field that the back of the blades are getting damaged. Any one familiar with this problem?


----------



## hog987 (Apr 5, 2011)

Is there any type of tinging noise? Something that sound like metal on metal? There is something chewing them up. Maybe someone like krone1 with more knowledge of these machines will chime in


----------



## Hayman1 (Jul 6, 2013)

Well for one thing, it looks like the back side is chewed up worse than the impact side. Something way out of adjustment. Send Krone1 a pm and he can fix you right up.


----------



## somedevildawg (Jun 20, 2011)

Ditto....that right thar ain't right fer sure....wow, let us know what is happening, that is strange.....


----------



## krone.1 (Jul 28, 2013)

is it the inside disc and inside drum?


----------



## Bpflora (Jun 17, 2013)

It's between 1&2, 3&4, 5&6 with there being 7 discs. This mower has a spring plate under the discs so you use a special bar to change the blades, without any tools. The krone service rep thinks grass is getting under the spring plate and causing the blades to have room to wobble around. I disagree but am not sure yet what is causing the problem. His answer is to install high skid plates. Was hoping someone else had an easy cut 3200 and would have some advice.


----------



## hayfarmer (Nov 9, 2008)

Are the disc properly timed? Checked to see if disc were properly installed at the factory. Also make sure you got the right blade on the right disc.


----------



## luke strawwalker (Jul 31, 2014)

Check for worn out blade pins as well...

My Zweegers drum mower uses the same type "spring loaded" blade pins... the mower comes with a special "wrench" that you hook over the edge of the saucer, then a pin extends out the end of it that goes through a small hole in the saucer to push the blade holder pin down away from the cutting disk when you lever up on the wrench. Then you're SUPPOSED to just be able to slide the blade up off the pin and out of the disk, and swap the side-for-side (if using the backside) or slide in a new blade). The PROBLEM is, dirt and grass detritus ends up packing in around the blade pin, ESPECIALLY on the forward/inward side of the pin, due to centrifugal force... when you hit fire ant mounds, gopher piles, and of course the usual dust and debris that gets sucked in there from the cutting blades as the grass is constantly moving past this point both above and below it, well, a lot of junk tends to accumulate. I've learned to take the handle of the wrench and knock the blades around some and "hammer out" the inevitable chunk of "crud" that builds up in there BEFORE trying to slide the blade off the pin...

Now, the blades can pivot on those pins... if they hit something solid (rock, post, whatever) they're SUPPOSED to be able to swing back under the saucer or disk to prevent them from breaking. Due to the SHEER SPEED of disk and drum mowers (around 2500-3000 RPMs or thereabouts, depending on the model) the centrifugal force is ENORMOUS (I'll have to ask my engineer nephew to give the actual figures some time... knowing the blade mass, the rotational radius (distance of the mass from the rotational centerpoint) and the rotational velocity (in RPMs or feet/minute) it SHOULD be a fairly easy thing to calculate, especially for a Purdue graduate... LOL Anyway, when all this "crud" gets between the blade hole and pin itself, as the blade vibrates and occasionally swings back from impacts with "stuff" (ant hills, gopher mounds, especially hard weeds or whatever) it eventually causes a LOT of wear on the pins...

I ran my Zweegers a LOT and eventually I noticed when I'd shut the mower down and let it spin down, I'd start hearing a lot of "tinkling" as it spun down to a stop... and some "buzzing" when it'd first start up... Got to checking and sure enough, blade tips were contacting the adjoining skid saucer below the cutting disk... Course my skid saucers were about worn out, so I replaced them, and pulled the blade holders out-- pins were worn about half in two... DEEP groove into the already existing groove that the blade is designed to run in (to keep it from being thrown out by centrifugal force by sliding up and off the pin).

Looking at your pics, it's obvious you've got some mechanical contact damage there to the bottom of the blades... see that blade where the metal looks "smeared" at the "top edge" (away from the blade outer tip edge) of the blade, and the metal is then broken away just a bit further out from that "smear" toward the tip?? That's a blade that's made contact with SOMETHING hard enough to "smear" the metal, just like hitting a piece of steel very hard with a sledgehammer with a glancing blow... Inspect the blade path as the disks turn BY HAND to see if they're potentially making contact somewhere... remember in operation that centrifugal force tends to pull them STRAIGHT OUT from the blade pin (Zweegers blades have a "camel hump" on them that rides up against the disk skirt underneath to "keep them straight" when cutting, but they're also mounted at a slight downward dipping angle as well, unlike most disk mower blades, especially twisted mower blades, which these appear to be. They may only be hitting right at startup or shutdown, but it's probably enough to chip away the thin edge of the blade and "smear" the metal like the one blade shows evidence of...

If in doubt, remove a blade holder pin (probably have to pull the turtle disk, but read your manual to see if it's necessary first, and of course mark everything to keep everything in time when you put it back together. Inspect the pin for excessive wear, against a new one at the dealer if you have to. If they're worn excessively, replace ALL of them-- it can get expensive, but better that than damage something else, and keep ruining blades (whatever they're hitting is going to be taking some damage too!) If SOME are worn enough to need replacing and others can go awhile, MAKE SURE that you replace ALL the blade holders on that ONE PARTICULAR TURTLE DISK-- DO NOT "mix-n-match" new and old blade holders on a single disk-- it'll cause a bad imbalance...

The other thing is, make sure that you have the correct blade for your machine... some blades are interchangeable between machines, some aren't... My Zweegers uses "domed" or "humped" blades that are otherwise flat and sharpened on both sides, thus reversible (move from left to right drum and vice-versa). The Kuhn I used to run for a buddy had twisted blades. It's not unheard of for the parts guy to grab the wrong blades or something, which could cause a problem if they don't fit right. Also, it kinda sounds like this guy is "guessing in the wind" when it comes to the "put high crop skid shoes on it to solve the problem"... it's POSSIBLE I suppose, but not particularly probable... One other thing-- what is your three point top link adjustment?? How long a stubble are you leaving?? If the mower is running with the top link too short and "tilted forward" for a short stubble and is hitting gravel or rocks, it could cause the sort of damage we're seeing on these blades... lengthen the top link to tilt the front of the cutting disks back, up, and away from the ground a bit, leaving a longer stubble... move them up away from the surface a bit and see what happens... I'd do that before I bought a bunch of high-crop shoes for it...

Later and best of luck! OL JR


----------

