# Adjusting Bale Size on NH Baler



## cjirby (Nov 22, 2009)

Hi all, I'm brand new to site and we're brand new to baling. Husband has a New Holland Hayliner Model 280 baler and is learning all this on his own. No manual, but we will be ordering one! Can anyone tell us how to adjust the baler so the bales are a little shorter? He's quite mechanical and can usually figure stuff out, but we'd like to know asap! Trying to beat the rain here in East Texas..... Thanks!


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## BCFENCE (Jul 26, 2008)

Its kinda hard to explain but im going to give it a shot, On the back of the baler about a foot behind the knotters you will see a shaft that runs across the top of the baler chamber that has a star wheel that sticks into the bales of hay that turns when hay goes threw it, This wheel on the shaft is located in the center of the shaft on top, on the end of that shaft you will see a wheel with grooves on it that also has a piece of metal that also has grooves that ride aginst it with a stoper on that piece of metal with grooves their is a stopper you can adjust up or down, The higher that stopper up on the piece the longer your bales will be, the shorter the distance the shorter the bales will be, This stopper can be adjusted up and down till the desired bale length is achieved. I dont know if this makes any since, maybe someone else can explain alittlt better.
THOMAS


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## Wrenchbender (Dec 4, 2008)

I'm not familiar with NH 280, but most balers use a star wheel that rides on top the bale as it pushes through the baler. This wheel in turn moves an arm that rises and trips the tying mechanism. A stop on the arm adjusts how far the arm returns and makes the bales longer or shorter accordingly. WB<><.


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## hay wilson in TX (Jan 28, 2009)

On the NH machines it is really quite simple. Aft of the Knotter or Twister is a trip arm. There is a clamp that limits the distance the trip arm can travel and that sets the bale length. On the newer NH machines, there is a gage bolt that limits the travel of the trip arm, but the principle is the same.

You will find the bale length will change as the hay becomes dryer. If you change the pressure on the bales to make the bales heavier or lighter the bale length will change again. 
If the baler has been exposed to the elements or if hay has been left in the chamber there will be a coating of rust and as the rust is scrub off by the hay the bale weight as well as the bale length will change.

You will find that the owners manual for small square balers are most instructive. When ordering a owners manual also order a parts manual.

You might also look to Talk. New Ag Talk or NAT for short, AgTalk Home - Category & forums listing there are several hay producers in East Texas there also.

This winter I would suggest you take your baler to the NH Dealer and have their mechanic go over the machine replacing worn parts as required.

If the art and science of hay production is not ingrained in you check out these sites.

First read http://www.wvu.edu/~agexten/pubnwsltr/TRIM/5811.pdf and pay attention to the graphs. I enlarged the graphs and then print the graphs on graph paper.

This one is quite good on the science of hay production. http://utahhay.usu.edu/files/uploads/UHFS07 pdfs for web/Undersander Swathing and Conditioning.pdf

This has some good background information http://www.uaex.edu/Other_Areas/publications/PDF/MP434.pdf

You will find there are many truths about hay. At first glance not all agree.

Here are some truths that apply.
75% of hay curing is with direct sun shine. A nice breeze and or a low humidity can help but they are still only a 25% part of the story. 
As long as the breathing holes in the leaves are open moisture will exit the plant. Put the plant in the dark and these holes will close. So you want to expose as much hay to the direct rays of sun as possible. 
Not only that but the sun will heat the moisture in plants raising the vapor pressure and forcing the moisture out of the hay. Moral leave the hay out as wide as practical for as long as practical. 
It is true hay at or above 40% moisture will not shatter leaves, not much any way. What is seldom mentioned is fully cured hay will be at 40% moisture IF the relative humidity is at or above 90% AT THE windrow.

It is true hay will bale with minimal leaf shatter IF baled between 19% and 14% moisture. Again what is not mentioned is fully cured hay will be at 19% moisture if the humidity is 65% at the windrow.

Hay that is too dry will shatter and loose leaves much below 14% moisture. Again seldom mentioned is the idea that this will occur between 55% & 50% humidity. 
Another little fact is hay will sweat when baled above 15% moisture. This is not a problem with small bales as long as the moisture is not over 20% moisture. The solution is simple pick up the higher moisture hay last. Stack it on where it can be exposed to air circulation in the shed. 
Very Seldom will anyone mention that bermudagrass hay is more susceptible to leaf shatter than alfalfa. The thing is a bale of bermudagrass stems will still look like nice hay while a bale of alfalfa stems looks like a bundle of sticks.

I try to put up a bale that is 34 inches long. The reason for this is a 34" bale that weighs 55 lbs will be a firm bale, while a 55 lb 40 inch long bale will be soft and not hold up a stack.


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## nwfarmer (Jun 16, 2009)

Many of the NH dealers that are on the web have a complete parts catalog. That catalog is usually the same throughout the different dealers. Select parts, insert your model number and you can get complete drawings and parts lists and print them out.

You pretty much need someone who has baled before to do an initial set up. Like has been mentioned it isn't only bale length and weight you have to make sure the moisture of the hay is correct.

I guess a good start would be a moisture meter, tape measure and a hand held type scale that you can lift the bale up to get the weight. I carry all of that in my tractor anyway.


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## nwfarmer (Jun 16, 2009)

That of course is assuming everything else on the baler is working correctly.


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## cjirby (Nov 22, 2009)

Wow, that's a lot of technical info! As with anything, the more you learn, the more you realize you need to learn! I appreciate everyone taking time to reply to us. As I starting reading the replies to Tim, he started nodding... I think he get's it - the adjustment mechanism that is. I will definitely be keeping this site in my favorites. I don't know much about forums, posting, threads, etc., so I hope everyone who replied to my question gets this, my big THANK YOU for your selflessness and willingness to help others!


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## nwfarmer (Jun 16, 2009)

I know the below dealer is probably not near you but if you click on "parts" on the left and on the next screen click on "New Holland" the next screen you can type in your model number. Presto you can see all of the parts on your baler.

There is another site called "partspring" that will also give you prices. Sometimes on weekends they are down doing maintenance.


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## nwfarmer (Jun 16, 2009)

OOPs! I didn't give the web site info.
Torgersons LLC- Agricultural Equipment Sales and Service- Northwest Montana


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## chief-fan (Aug 27, 2009)

For your operators manual and Parts manual try "JENSALES" in Manchester, MN. His email address is [email protected]. His manual are reproductions but the information is the same as the factory and his prices are usually less the dealer. I have purchased several manuals from him and they were great. Good luck with you haying venture.


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