# 4440 over heating engine and hydraulics



## ironranch (Jul 14, 2014)

I have a 4440 that is overheating the engine and hydraulics. I have cleaned radiators, taken them to shop and had the checked out. Everything good there. I pulled water pump and had it checked and its good. Pulled the head off and did a complete head job. New caskets installed and injectors checked. Installed everything and it still runs hot. New thermostats new hose top and bottom. Can anyone help me out please?


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## mlappin (Jun 25, 2009)

Is the engine boiling over or does just the gauge read hot?

On our tractors if the hydraulic oil is getting hot you most likely have an internal leak somewhere and the pump isn't shutting down when it reaches the correct pressure so it's always pumping oil.

Not familiar with a 4440, but the tractor on the tub grinder was always running hot last summer, replaced the turbo this spring and it barely gets over 180 now.


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## ironranch (Jul 14, 2014)

The engine is boiling out the overflow. The hottest I have checked is 214. I don't let it get very hot before stoping. It will cool down within 5 min. It might take 30 min to heat back up.


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## hog987 (Apr 5, 2011)

How is the fan belt? The belts new or worn? What shape are the pulleys in on the crankshaft and water pump? What about the fan shroud? Has it been bent? Easy to do with all this other work being done. Fan blades. Was the thermostat installed the right way? How about the grill. Is it dirty or plugged? I had a old case tractor that had a shutter in front of the rad to be closed for winter use. Tractor kept over heating. Removed shutter and fixed problem.


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## mlappin (Jun 25, 2009)

Did the shop actually boil the radiator? Or just did a visual? Our JD401C did pretty much what you're describing on the hottest days, turns out somebody repaired it themselves and had about a third of the core plugged with solder.


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## ironranch (Jul 14, 2014)

Fan shroud good radiator has been blown,washed, blown dry, the whole 10 yards. Shop pressure checked and flow checked it. Thermostat are in correctly. I heard of A mans water pump sucking air through the seal. It never leaked water but would suck air and in turn make the tractor get hot any thoughts?


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## Tx Jim (Jun 30, 2014)

Ditto on fan belts & sheaves. Have you pressure tested the rad cap?? Have you checked inj pump timing? Do any hyd components get overly HOT.


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## mlappin (Jun 25, 2009)

If your getting air in the coolant it should foam up.

Have you had this tractor for awhile or is it a recent purchase?

If recent purchase maybe the previous owner could have been running straight water and has the block sludged up?

We had one that had oil in the coolant from a bad head gasket, ran several bottles of flush thru it on separate occasions before finally got it clean.


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## hog987 (Apr 5, 2011)

How did you wash the rad?? If you used a pressure washer that is usually a big no no. That can bend the fins over blocking the air flow. Plus if you bend the fins over before the dirt exits than it double the problem. Are the fins bent? Can you see through the rad?


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## ironranch (Jul 14, 2014)

I can see through the radiator. I straightened all the bent fens on the oil cooler and radiator. The belts are about 3 years old. I tightened this evening real late fur to a bearing out on baler that didn't want to come off. When I started the tractor with the tighter belts I could smell rubber getting hot. I'm not sure what that is. Might just be the belts slipping just a little and not letting fan turn fast enough. I don't know but this is frustrating. Thanks for everyone's help.


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## hog987 (Apr 5, 2011)

I don't know about JD but with some of the old case tractors case does not make the belts anymore. You can still get belts but they are just a slightly different size and they slip just a small amount. One thing is that is a belt is getting worn or glazed and slipping rub some break fluid on the belt and it will be as good as new.


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## ssbland (Oct 1, 2010)

Does it have a viscous fan clutch?


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## carcajou (Jan 28, 2011)

You need to isolate whether the hyds are the issue here. Pull the Hyd Filter(s) and cut them open. If you find brake debris then i can see it causing overheating among other problems. 1st hand 4440 experience here.


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## Tx Jim (Jun 30, 2014)

ironranch

Are the backs of the belts even with or below the "V" of the sheaves? If below the "V" the belts &/or sheaves are worn out.


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## Tx Jim (Jun 30, 2014)

ssbland said:


> Does it have a viscous fan clutch?


4440 had direct drive fan.


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## ironranch (Jul 14, 2014)

It's direct drive fan. Hyd filter changed with new oil no trash or other debrie. Sheaves are still good belts sit were they should.


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## Nitram (Apr 2, 2011)

ironranch said:


> The engine is boiling out the overflow. The hottest I have checked is 214. I don't let it get very hot before stoping. It will cool down within 5 min. It might take 30 min to heat back up.


30 min under load? If its cooling down in 5 min (idleing yes?) Would think cooling system is working but being overloaded...injectors? Missing at all?


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## ironranch (Jul 14, 2014)

Yes under a load. Pulling a 9' krone hay cutter, Vermeer round baler. I had injectors redone with the head. It does have a lope in it at low Rpm. Temperatures range from across the head 214, thermostat housing 250, top of radiator 233, bottom of radiator at the hose 190, bottom of water pump 205.


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## Tx Jim (Jun 30, 2014)

Have you checked inj pump timing??


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## ironranch (Jul 14, 2014)

No


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## ironranch (Jul 14, 2014)

How do I check or reset the timing?


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## Tx Jim (Jun 30, 2014)

Inj pump times at TDC # 1 . There's a timing hole that one inserts a timing pin through flywheel housing into a hole in FW.


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## ironranch (Jul 14, 2014)

Is there timing marks on injection pump? Were would the be at? Thanks


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## Tx Jim (Jun 30, 2014)

Although inj pump timing may be right on target it's fairly economical; to check it. Timing gears can wear allowing inj pump timing to get moved.


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## ironranch (Jul 14, 2014)

I'm rebuilding water pump and new fan belts. Ill check injection pump timing as well. I was also told that the tractor may need more power ( turn pump up just a little) any thoughts. I know for a fact no one has ever done it.


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## Tx Jim (Jun 30, 2014)

Checking timing is one of the easier/cheaper diagnostics one can perform.


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## Nitram (Apr 2, 2011)

As far as turning it up MLappin is pretty smart on that ...but I run a 13 ft discpro on my 4430 and doubt mine is turn up could put on dyno first to check the output


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## ironranch (Jul 14, 2014)

Thanks for y'all's help. Checked timing its on the mark. Replaced water pump on it today after the rebuild kit failed. Seals and bearings leaking was a total mess. I'm going to try my new fixes next week when I start cutting hay again. How fast shoul thus tractor pull a 9' kuhn cutter? B1-b2? This one just about b1 maybe c1. Seems low on power rom the 4440 I drive in the Texas panhandle pulling plows everyday. Thanks again.


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## Tx Jim (Jun 30, 2014)

I would think a 4440 would pull a 9' cutter about as fast as one could drive. Can you hear turbo whine?


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## barnrope (Mar 22, 2010)

I pull a 13.5 NH dsicbine with conditioner with a 4440 sometimes. It will easily handle it in C4 and one time on a smooth stretch I bumped her up to D3 to see if it would work. That worked but it was the limit for the poor ol' girl.


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## ironranch (Jul 14, 2014)

I can hear the turbo whistling doesn't smoke just seems low on power. I have a 584 that pulls the same cutter 2 mph slower than the Deere. I think it should pull it really easy.


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