# Tractor front weights 101



## JD3430 (Jan 1, 2012)

In my 6 years in the farming business I've never owned a tractor that has had a front rack of weights. 
My recently acquired 2010 Kubota M-135X does NOT have a loader or weights. The rear wheels have cast weights, but no liquid in the tires. 
As some of you know, my operation involves a lot of OTR transport from field to field. When pulling my 15' flexwing mower or other towed implements, it "porpoises" down the road to a point where I feel more like I'm riding a mechanical bull than driving a tractor. 
It only does this at very top speed of 23-25MPH. Does not do it below 23MPH. I would very much like to utilize my 25MPH speed.

So, my question is, will front weights get rid of the bouncing? Or is it a tire inflation issue? or is it both? 
The next issue is, will it be worth spending $1,200 for weight rack and 1000lbs of weights just to get rid of bounce? Tractor has some other issues that need addressed, so spending that many toad hides is an important consideration. 
I also realize I will get better ground traction with the front weights as well.

Any suggestions/thoughts appreciated.


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## NewBerlinBaler (May 30, 2011)

My tractor has a loader and it still bounces when I go down the road at travel speed so I suspect adding weights won't help. Do your other tractors with loaders ride any smoother?


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## Hayman1 (Jul 6, 2013)

JD, I can't answer your question as to 25 mph, a little above what I usually travel at. But I would not take delivery of my JD 6115M until the weights were on it. I custom bale one really hilly (for me) piece of alfalfa and when I have 175 bales on the wagon and the NH570 pumping them out, I am thankful for every pound up there. I think I have about 1000#. That said, under certain conditions I can still get a little up and down ride on the road. r


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## 8350HiTech (Jul 26, 2013)

Weights should theoretically help ride quality more than a loader as there’s no bounce. And $1200 for 1000 pounds plus a bracket sounds like a really great deal. If you’re sure you’re keeping the tractor, you’ll probably end up buying some at some point whether it’s now or later, unless you choose to mount something else heavy out front (loader, front 3pt for snowplow...) instead of weights.


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## JD3430 (Jan 1, 2012)

NewBerlinBaler said:


> My tractor has a loader and it still bounces when I go down the road at travel speed so I suspect adding weights won't help. Do your other tractors with loaders ride any smoother?


That's a GREAT observation and the best thing about that is I DO have an almost identical Kubota M-126X with a loader and it doesn't porpoise down the road. That's why I thought this was a front weight issue. The loader has soft ride feature, too so it absorbs some shock, too. 
I also notice my front tires not fully grabbing when pulling uphill.


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## JD3430 (Jan 1, 2012)

8350HiTech said:


> Weights should theoretically help ride quality more than a loader as there's no bounce. And $1200 for 1000 pounds plus a bracket sounds like a really great deal. If you're sure you're keeping the tractor, you'll probably end up buying some at some point whether it's now or later, unless you choose to mount something else heavy out front (loader, front 3pt for snowplow...) instead of weights.


Front weight bracket $400

Each 102-lb suitcase weight $95

The bracket can hold up to 12 suitcase weights.

I figured bracket and 8 weights would be about 1,000lbs (thought bracket would be about 100lbs)

9 weights = 900+lbs

So thats about 1250lbs


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## mlappin (Jun 25, 2009)

What are your tire inflation pressures?

My mowing tractor does that as well if anything is hooked to it but the discbine. Full fertilizer spreader, double auger vertical TMR, disc, whatever gets to bouncing at road speed.

If I get the tire pressure low enough to eliminate the bounce then it feels really squirrelly on the hill sides. If I raise it enough to eliminate the bounce then might as well have solid tires on the rear as it rides like a log wagon.

I've had both sides jacked up and C clamped a piece of angle iron to the axle housing to act as a indicator and have adjusted the dogs on both wheels to get them running as true as possible, still bouncy bouncy with anything but the discbine behind it, which is really strange as I know the vertical TMR has a LOT more tongue weight that the discbine.


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## Gearclash (Nov 25, 2010)

Almost certainly a tire inflation pressure issue (too much pressure) or a tire quality problem. I was told and have seen for myself that not all tires work good at 25 mph speeds. Usually the mfr will say something in the specs about roading speeds. I was advised to use tires from European mfrs for 25 mph tractors as they have a better handle on the requirements. That said, I did see a Goodyear tire series (Optitrac) a year ago that was intended for higher road speeds. Also I have seen almost invariably that higher draw bar weighs will aggravate any bounce condition especially if it is a longer trailer style implement like a big square baler or manure spreader.


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## JD3430 (Jan 1, 2012)

So spending $1,200+ on weights could possibly be no help?
I do have all 4 tires inflated to the max pressure indicated on the sidewall.
Would you suggest starting with taking out 5lbs from them?

Added: the tires are BKT radials. 420/70/24 on front and 520-70/38 rears. 
The M126x has identical tires. They are also inflated to max pressure, but the 126x has a pretty heavy front end loader. Strangely, the M-135X will do a full 25MPH, the 126 will do maybe 23.5MPH top speed. Speedos could be slightly mis-calibrated, but the M-135 does feel a little faster.


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## 8350HiTech (Jul 26, 2013)

JD3430 said:


> So spending $1,200+ on weights could possibly be no help?
> I do have all 4 tires inflated to the max pressure indicated on the sidewall.
> Would you suggest starting with taking out 5lbs from them?


Figure YOUR max load for the tires and inflate accordingly rather than max pressure. There should be a chart somewhere. Weights might still help but if you're running max pressure now, deflate first.


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## paoutdoorsman (Apr 23, 2016)

I personally wouldn't run max pressure, but I don't do much roading. I adjust pressure for maximum footprint contact to gain maximum traction and weight dispersion. On a concrete surface, check the bar to concrete contact at the outer edges of the bars across all bars currently making the footprint and set pressure to gain maximum reasonable contact.


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## SCtrailrider (May 1, 2016)

Adding water to the tires is a easy weight addition to start with..

I don't road mine much at all but the old 2030 keeps me busy @8mph LOL.... things are a little loose...


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## JD3430 (Jan 1, 2012)

Previous owner loaded all 4 rims with calcium. YUK what a mess to remove, but now I think I know why he filled the rims.
I don't like liquid in tires. Never have-never will. I like cast rear centers and either rack of weights or a loader up front.


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## foz682 (Jan 10, 2013)

NewBerlinBaler said:


> My tractor has a loader and it still bounces when I go down the road at travel speed so I suspect adding weights won't help. Do your other tractors with loaders ride any smoother?


I would think that adding weights of similar mass as a loader could actually add significantly more weight to the front wheels since it's not being distributed between front and rear.

That being said, the few times that I have had the loader off of our NH resulted in having to road much slower because of bounce, even with no implement behind.

I wouldn't load front tires, one time we did have a tractor with fronts loaded, wore the tire off in no time.

If you need rear weight I'm a firm believer in loading tires. Dairy farmer I work for bought a kubota 9960 with loader & cab, came with cast wheel weights. Could hardly lift a bucket of snow without lifting the rear end off the ground let alone a 2000lb bale. Loaded the rears and turned it into a different beast altogether.

My opinion is to go for the rack of weights and lower the air pressure up front.


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## JD3430 (Jan 1, 2012)

I just wish I could find a used rack and some used weights.
Have to laugh- I called the local "used AG equipment dealer" and asked if they had any Kubota weights. They said "sure...buck a pound" 
And I'm like, do you clowns realize new weights with new paint cost less?
Found a couple burned tractors and they want like 90% of the cost of a new rack for their burned rack, then you have to pay shipping.
These guys are proud of their used & burned equipment!!


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## 8350HiTech (Jul 26, 2013)

JD3430 said:


> I just wish I could find a used rack and some used weights.
> Have to laugh- I called the local "used AG equipment dealer" and asked if they had any Kubota weights. They said "sure...buck a pound"
> And I'm like, do you clowns realize new weights with new paint cost less?
> Found a couple burned tractors and they want like 90% of the cost of a new rack for their burned rack, then you have to pay shipping.
> These guys are proud of their used & burned equipment!!


This is why I said your quote for new weights sounded good. There is virtually zero depreciation with weights and brackets. You might try Weaver's Compact Tractor as in addition to the compacts they've started to part out larger Kubotas. However, unless you find used weights in your backyard, the $95 for new price is good enough that there isn't much point in scouring the used market.


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## Gearclash (Nov 25, 2010)

I see CIH weights both front suitcase and rear wheel sell on auctiontime pretty regular for 50 cents a pound give or take. Location and shipping would be deal breakers.


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## KYhaymaker (Jun 7, 2018)

In my area JD weights are usually a buck a pound. I havent seen any “good” deals on them. If you find the weight you need at that range or less Id comsider it.


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## Palmettokat (Jul 10, 2017)

I have some issue with front end bounce with my JD which has FEL. Had a rough road which paved but still was a wash board and the high pressure in front tires due to FEL. I have a M Kubota that will give me some bounce with side mount cutter on 3 pth and I have some weights on that tractor but those weights really helped reduce the bounce.

One thing did not see mentioned here is a tire that has a flat spot or such. I can run my Kubota at a certain speed and tell one of my rear and maybe both have a flat spot . May be just where it was sitting for not sure it is there after using the tractor. As to front end weight, lot of guys who use their tractor for spraying here have sprayer tank on front end of tract and keep water in it for ballast. Might be a solution for you.


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## somedevildawg (Jun 20, 2011)

KYhaymaker said:


> In my area JD weights are usually a buck a pound. I havent seen any "good" deals on them. If you find the weight you need at that range or less Id comsider it.


I think that's about the going rate here as well, hard to find them for less.....

I bought 1200 lbs at auction earlier this year with the weight bracket for $750.....got lucky there was so many, woulda probably went for more money (per weight) if there was only 6. I needed all 12...


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## JD3430 (Jan 1, 2012)

Well I added the rack and a local small kubota dealer just happened to have 3 102lb weights.
Have 4 more on the way.


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## Palmettokat (Jul 10, 2017)

Somehow I thought it was a JD you had bouncing issue with. Sorry I misread that, I have a M6800 open station tractor and would have agreed in hurry put weights on it. Made big difference on mine. Kubota has very light front end. My tractor came with weighted front weight mount. Not a steel mount your weights are hung on. If same as mine are they have been used by Kubota for I think over 20 years so should be some used ones out there. I have three old weights no idea what kind of tractor they are for that I think would fit your mount. Not trying to sell them just saying you might find another weight that will work.


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## JD3430 (Jan 1, 2012)

So I have mixed results from the weights, and some more questions answered. I added 4 more 102lb weights to the first 3 for a total of over 800lbs (adding the weight of the weight bracket itself)
To my disappointment, with the bush hog in tow, the tractor still bounces exactly the same way above 22.5MPH up to 25MPH. 
However, I have definitely ruled out the cause of the bouncing being the new BKT tires because with a baler or rake in tow, the tractor will run its full 25MPH down the road perfectly-no bouncing at all. 
Seems to me, the cause is the John Deere bush hog. With Its rear axle & tires are set so far back from the tractors rear hitch and the mowers "hinged" style hitch, that it flexes at the point on bumpy roads and causes wildly uncontrollable bouncing. I am guessing here, but I think if the hitch wasn't "hinged", it might not bounce, but then I would lose the hinges flexibility over undulated ground. Note that It's actually more of a gimbal than a hinge. Also, The rear axle of the mower (John Deere CX-15) has an "air bag" suspension. I don't know if there's any possibility that messing with the air bag pressures would help, but I kind of doubt it.

On the positive side, when mowing and climbing hills in 4WD, the front wheels contribute a lot more traction. Before the weights were installed, sometimes on extreme hills climbing, they would just tear off grass chunks. That is gone. The tractor also feels more stable and safe on steep hills. I also get a "poor mans front bumper" out of the weights, too. 
I plan on buying more weights as money allows. I have 7 on front and room for 6 more. 
I'm not unhappy, but would have been more pleased if the porpoising down the road at full road speed could have been eliminated.
When pulling the mower with my JCB, I could do 35MPH with no bouncing. I suspect the JCBs full suspension was able to overcome the bouncing. I haven't tried to pull the mower with my MF7495 yet. I really handnt planned on using that tractor for mowing and I have the 1000 small stub installed on her for my Meyer spreader.


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## Texasmark (Dec 20, 2011)

JD3430 said:


> In my 6 years in the farming business I've never owned a tractor that has had a front rack of weights.
> My recently acquired 2010 Kubota M-135X does NOT have a loader or weights. The rear wheels have cast weights, but no liquid in the tires.
> As some of you know, my operation involves a lot of OTR transport from field to field. When pulling my 15' flexwing mower or other towed implements, it "porpoises" down the road to a point where I feel more like I'm riding a mechanical bull than driving a tractor.
> It only does this at very top speed of 23-25MPH. Does not do it below 23MPH. I would very much like to utilize my 25MPH speed.
> ...


I just added 150# to the front of a newly purchased Ford 3910 45 hp. I went to a used tractor/implement/junk dealer and found some cheap wheel weights and mounted them to the steel guard protecting the front end. Cost was 50 bucks and got 150 x 8' (ft-lbs) = 1200# of offset at the rear axle with only 150# additional weight on the front axle. They look like what they are: Weights scabbed on the front of a tractor but you see things like this all the time on used equipment.

Yes your bouncing is too light a front end and caused by your weight aft of the rear axle. Softening the ride makes it more comfortable for you but like a spring with no shock, the soft tire just bounces and bounces.......the other thing you have with your bouncing is lack of stable tractor to road contact making safe steering iffy. Weighting as mentioned will correct that problem too.

On an IH 464 I had a problem with 5x6 rolls of hay whereby I couldn't even pick up the bale before the front end came completely off the ground. Built a bracket and installed 4-2' pieces of railroad siding rail which corrected that problem. No idea what they weighed.

Then on my current Ford 2000 had the same problem years ago and I built a frame that attached to the front axle and put 9ea. 6x8x16 solid concrete blocks in it to solve that problem.


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## JD3430 (Jan 1, 2012)

I ended up adding 1,000lbs and it didn't solve the problem..
Trying a different hitch to see if that helps. 
I do get better traction now that I've added the weight.


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## carcajou (Jan 28, 2011)

Play with the air pressure's in your tires. Sometimes it can be worked out. Often there is too much air in the front or not enough in the rear.


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## Vol (Jul 5, 2009)

carcajou said:


> Often there is too much air in the front or not enough in the rear.


Yep, soft inflated rears causes the majority of the road bounce at higher speeds.

Regards, Mike


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## swall01 (Jun 10, 2018)

ive noticed the bias ply tires temporarily get out of round but havent seen that with radial ply. after a half mile they smooth out with a decent load. light loads take longer.


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## JD3430 (Jan 1, 2012)

Have 2 Kubotas - M126X and M135X. They are identical except for pump settings. The 126X has a loader and no weights. The 135 has no loader and 1000lbs of weights. Both tracors have identical brand and size tires (BKT Agri Max)

The 126X tops out at 23.5MPH and does not bounce while pulling my CX-15 rotary cutter

The 135X tops out at 24.5MPH and begins bouncing wildly at about 22.5MPH.

To me the primary difference and really the only difference is the 126X has a loader


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