# JD 336 baler problem



## JD3430 (Jan 1, 2012)

Hey guys, one knotter works great. The other side only ties off a bale about 20% of the time. When I take the cover off, there's a bunch of 3-4' pieces twine with their ends wrapped around what I think is the knotter/wiper with what appears to be knots on them. 
Guy told me it has to polished & shiny to make sure twine comes off clean.
Would like to get this stuff out of the field this week while the weather holds out. Any suggestions?


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## MorganT69 (May 17, 2010)

He is correct, it must be polished and shiny, no rust or build up, I found that out the hard way on my JD 328


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## JD3430 (Jan 1, 2012)

OK, thanks! 
So right now it has a VERY thin black build up spots on it. Not rust, just a film. looks harmless and can't really "feel" it on there it's so insignificant. So that can keep the twine from sliding off clean? 
Would I clean it off with fine sandpaper? Or use something else?


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## NDVA HAYMAN (Nov 24, 2009)

Sounds to me that the wiper is not clearing the twine from the billhook


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## JD3430 (Jan 1, 2012)

Is the wiper adjustable or must parts be ordered? Would like to get done tomorrow.


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## jenkinsfarmsinc (Dec 8, 2011)

The best bet would be to purchase a new bill hook, for the long time correction. They tend to get wear marks from the twine sliding through them constantly and the twine will get hung up on the rough edges. It could be corrosion, get some fine grit emory cloth and try to buff it the best you can. Im not positive on the adjustment of the wipe on a JD, but on my agco machines, we get real high tech and either use a hammer to tappy tap the wipe real easy, or use a cresent wrench to bend it down ever so slightly. You have to be careful to not get it to tight or the wipe will hang on the bill hook. Check the blade on the wipe also, make sure it isn't worn to bad. Also, make sure all the knotters are clean of all the old leaves and dirt, and make sure it is greased super good, clean any and all of the dirt that sits below the knotters on top of the chamber. Good luck to you!


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## Vol (Jul 5, 2009)

JD3430,

Trip the knotter and have someone turn the flywheel while you watch the billhook and wiper arm make and wipe a knot.

If you do not have a operators manual, you really need to get one....makes life easier......I saw one going off on ebay cheap this morning.....http://www.ebay.com/itm/Operators-M...528?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item20c1befff8

Regards, Mike


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## JD3430 (Jan 1, 2012)

OK, will do all the aforementioned this morning. I do have owners manual. My gosh it's thicker than a tractor manual!

I got a lot to learn, but what I've done so far has been a lot of fun!!!


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## Barry Bowen (Nov 16, 2009)

Basic info, here is a great video that show how knotters work. It is from New Holland and about 12 minutes long, but well worth the time. You will see in this vid how critical a sharp knife is and having the proper twine disc tension.






As to your problem, number one problem from what you are describing, the twine knife is very dull. Chances are your bill hook is just fine. Start by sharpening or even replacing the twine knife that is attached to the wiper. Some 336's the knife is bolted on to the wiper arm, and in others it is riveted. If riveted you will need to remove the wiper to sharpen it. To check and see how tight the wiper is to the bill hook, remove the bolt that holds the knotter down(usually 3/8 carriage bolt), and raise it up until the wiper comes over across the bill hook. KEEP YOU FINGERS OUT OF THE WAY!!!!! It should take around 10 pounds of pull to get the wiper across the bill hook. If your wiper has the bolted knife, it also has a bolted on plate that is adjustable to the bottom of the bill hook. Make sure the bill hook is not moving up and down. There are shims under the drive gear for the bill hook that are supposed to do this. You may need to add some if there is a lot of slop. When the knife is dull and does not cut cleanly, the knot does not come off the bill hook. One side of the twine is sheared out as the baler continues, but it leaves the knot on the bill hook. Sharpen the knife, and I mean really sharp, not with a grinder either. Use a file or a knife sharpener, and then fine sand the edge when you are done. If this does not take care of the problem get back to me, and I will have more questions to figure out where to go. Do not replace the bill hook yet, they are rarely the problem here and cost around $75 each plus new shims and a real pain to replace.


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## Vol (Jul 5, 2009)

JD3430,
Barry Bowen is very knowledgeable on JD balers and has given me much good and sound advice. You would be doing yourself a service to follow his suggestions. Good to see you again Barry!

Regards, Mike


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## Josh in WNY (Sep 7, 2010)

Barry has some great advice on what to look for. I agree that it sounds more like a knife or wiper problem. Another thing to do is compare everything to the knotter that is working (don't change anything on the good knotter). The owners manual I have for my 336 has a very detailed section on how the knotter ties a knot, if yours has this study it very closely. After fighting with knotter problems 2 years ago, I think I can readjust these things in my sleep (but I am by no means an expert). Take your time and make sure all the adjustments are correct when you are done and keep in mind that when you adjust one thing, it may change something else.


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## JD3430 (Jan 1, 2012)

Thanks to all who replied. I just got back from a day of struggling with the baler. First 3-4 hours was trial & error. We cleaned the bill hook real good with emery paper. That didn't help much. Then I adjusted the wiper. It had some slop in it. That didn't really help much, although we made some bales successfully. I was able to make about 7 of every 8 bales, but then she'd only tie one side again. I got it done, but would have been real enjoyable if the baler would have just baled without breaking so many bales. 
I got them all baled up eventually, but it was a hassle. 
Just read the replies from Barry about the knife. Didn't think of that one!! Will sharpen it tomorrow.

What it will do is make good bales, then one will go through tied on one side only. The other side will either be untied, or the e string will be stuck on the bill hook.

Thanks all. I hope sharpening will do the trick. Will advise.


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## Barry Bowen (Nov 16, 2009)

After you sharpen the knife, the next thing to look at is bale density and the problems that can create. How heavy and how long were the bales that you were making. Did it seem to have the problem the most when you hit a heavier and not as dry spot in the field? Too dense a bale can cause the twine to be pulled out of the twin disc even when adjusted properly! What are you using for twine, sisal or plastic?


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## JD3430 (Jan 1, 2012)

Barry,

Circumstances for this hay are not typical. I was contracted to pick up this hay, which lay cut on top of the field for probably over 5 months. Despite my efforts to dry it, some of it was damp when I picked it up. I think that made the problem with the one knotter worse, but the other knotter worked perfect. Not one whimper from it. 
I never measured bale length, but my memory would think they were about 34". The previous owner set the bale pressure low because he towed an EZ Trail bale basket behind the baler. He did this because there's "back pressure" from pushing the bales up the ramp and into the basket. I increased the pressure 3 turns down on each spring because I didn't use the basket for this baling. 
I know I'm throwing lots of variables at you and I really appreciate your help. I don't think I'll be using it again until this spring. I have called a "baler repairman" to set up a potential tune up with him, but the more I can do myself, the better. 
Any other suggestions given the new variables I presented to you, are greatly appreciated.

Also, if you want to come up, I'm only 15 miles north of the MD border in PA!!! I think I'd rather pay you to fix it than the local "baler repairman"!!!!


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## Barry Bowen (Nov 16, 2009)

Sent you a PM about looking at it.


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