# Engine Rebuild



## TORCH (Jan 7, 2012)

I have some old iron 1969 Massey 1080. 4 cylinder diesel. I use for hay operation and other jobs. It is a great size for what I use it for. The engine is burning oil and really doesn't have the power it should have. Thinking about just rebuilding the engine. The one part I need help with is info on cylinder replacing. I do wonder why they just don't bore them out like other engines.

I see they have in frame kits. How do you press cylinders in properly in frame? I would just remove and do a full rebuild job. Don't know of a good rebuild shop in my area with out researching. Just need them to do machine work and I will assemble.

Any good machine shops in Wisconsin?


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## Gearclash (Nov 25, 2010)

Parent bore engines (need to bore for overhaul) are a minority in the tractor world. Most are either dry or wet sleeve. Either type of sleeve is easy enough to replace in frame. Dry sleeve is a little tougher to work with usually, but still not a big deal.


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## Palmettokat (Jul 10, 2017)

Helped rebuild a Ford 601 40 or years ago. Was told to put sleeves in freezer only taking out right when ready to put it in. Think we were able to take a block of wood on top of it and tap in block.

I would begin on machine shop asking parts stores such as NAPA.


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## danwi (Mar 6, 2015)

Bumper to bumper in hartford


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## Idaho Jade (Aug 3, 2011)

Depending on the kit you end up buying, some come with slip fit dry sleeves rather than press fit sleeves. Worst part is getting the original sleeves out without causing issue to the block bore. After that it’s just like any other rebuild.


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## TORCH (Jan 7, 2012)

danwi said:


> Bumper to bumper in hartford


I will call them. They ground a few cranks for me. Never thought to ask them about diesel engines. Good call


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## stack em up (Mar 7, 2013)

Idaho Jade said:


> Depending on the kit you end up buying, some come with slip fit dry sleeves rather than press fit sleeves. Worst part is getting the original sleeves out without causing issue to the block bore. After that it's just like any other rebuild.


Pretty easy getting dry sleeves out actually, I run a couple beads of weld with a stick welder vertically in the sleeve, they shrink and come out as easy as pie. Gotta be careful though!


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## TORCH (Jan 7, 2012)

stack em up said:


> Pretty easy getting dry sleeves out actually, I run a couple beads of weld with a stick welder vertically in the sleeve, they shrink and come out as easy as pie. Gotta be careful though!


Hmm? I have read that some people do this to shrink the sleeve away from block. I do have a wire welder that should achieve the same thing. I have access to liquid nitrogen that can shrink the sleeves but have never done that to engine. I seen some use dry ice. I guess wont know some of the answers until I have it opened up and try.


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## Palmettokat (Jul 10, 2017)

stack em up said:


> Pretty easy getting dry sleeves out actually, I run a couple beads of weld with a stick welder vertically in the sleeve, they shrink and come out as easy as pie. Gotta be careful though!


Was told to do that to remove pressed in bearing races. Have not tried it yet.


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## stack em up (Mar 7, 2013)

TORCH said:


> Hmm? I have read that some people do this to shrink the sleeve away from block. I do have a wire welder that should achieve the same thing. I have access to liquid nitrogen that can shrink the sleeves but have never done that to engine. I seen some use dry ice. I guess wont know some of the answers until I have it opened up and try.


Stick welder works best, can't imagine how a wire feed would work decent enough as you can't push your bead as you don't have room. Tombstone welders are cheap.
Never used dry ice or nitrogen, just a deep freeze or outside the shop in the winter. Doesn't take much to shrink them enough, still have to be driven in though.



Palmettokat said:


> Was told to do that to remove pressed in bearing races. Have not tried it yet.


Works like a charm, try it sometime, I think you'll like it.


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## mlappin (Jun 25, 2009)

Which engine did that MF use? Cant recall the exact model MF but we had one with a 4 cylinder Perkins and if the sleeves were changed they needed reshimming to get the protrusion right, very critical or the head gasket won't hold.


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## TORCH (Jan 7, 2012)

I called bumper to bumper they can help me. Sounds like they can get a rebuild kit. Can't find me a new cam shaft? This sound weird no cam available?

Also said will just look at oil pump most likely just put oil pump back in. Don't sound right to me but will inspect.

Anyone know of the best brand of rebuild kits? This is a 318 Perkins. Will have to look again I think it is A4 - 318


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## stack em up (Mar 7, 2013)

TORCH said:


> I called bumper to bumper they can help me. Sounds like they can get a rebuild kit. Can't find me a new cam shaft? This sound weird no cam available?
> 
> Also said will just look at oil pump most likely just put oil pump back in. Don't sound right to me but will inspect.
> 
> Anyone know of the best brand of rebuild kits? This is a 318 Perkins. Will have to look again I think it is A4 - 318


What's the reasoning for replacing the cam? Cam bearings, of course, but unless the lobes are worn or the base circle is out of range, I'd run it. Barry's Cam Service in Lester Prarie MN can grind them for you if needed.

I don't generally replace oil pumps unless oil pressure has been an issue in the past. To each his own though, it's your money.

Worthington Ag Parts sells overhaul kits pretty reasonable. That's what I use.


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## TORCH (Jan 7, 2012)

stack em up said:


> What's the reasoning for replacing the cam? Cam bearings, of course, but unless the lobes are worn or the base circle is out of range, I'd run it. Barry's Cam Service in Lester Prarie MN can grind them for you if needed.
> 
> I don't generally replace oil pumps unless oil pressure has been an issue in the past. To each his own though, it's your money.
> 
> Worthington Ag Parts sells overhaul kits pretty reasonable. That's what I use.


This would be the first diesel engine rebuild for me. I have rebuilt gas engines and always just put new cams in. I will have to find out, some how. What the lift of the cam should be. Inspect visually. I do have a travel indicator to check lift if there is a spec on that.

I did not know that was normal practice to put used parts back in. In reference to oil pump. I will need to check spec on this as well. I need to find info on engine spec to check all this.


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## mlappin (Jun 25, 2009)

Almost always can reuse cams and oil pumps. diesels are built for reliability and longevity, at least the older ones were. Oil pumps and cams just don't wear like the same things in their gas counterparts. Lower revs helps a lot as well.


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## mlappin (Jun 25, 2009)

I actually have 5 or 6 3208 Cats stacked up in what used to be a maternity stall, can find enough good parts to put another together with little real money involved. I've yet to see a junk cam or oil pump in one of them either.


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## farmersamm (Nov 2, 2017)

x2 on using the welder for removing dry sleeves.

Broke a ring on my Perkins, and replaced the liner, piston, and rings.

Weld bead to get it out (covered the crank with a ton of soaking wet rags).

Wrapped a chain around the tractor (Oliver 1850) to hold the bottle jack, then pressed the new liner back in the block. Been a while, but IIRC....the critical measurement is how far the liner protrudes above the block once seated.


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## Farmineer95 (Aug 11, 2014)

I recently did a 318 perkins, got parts and machine shop service from Baril in Green Bay. New liners for these dont have a lip on top of the liner, gets more squash on head gasket. If they have a liner puller, rent it.


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