# Building height to stack 4 high?



## JMT

I am starting to plan a building for round bale storage. Would like to stack 5x6 rounds 4 high. I usually put bottom layer on end then stack "pyramid" style on top.

How high does the building need to be?
Also I am looking at a hoop building. Is it better to have a long building or go with a wide hoop?
Would like to store about 400 rounds.
Any input is appreciated, thanks.


----------



## somedevildawg

I believe 19' will work for ya.....

Long building is better, more "head"room


----------



## rjmoses

I get about 200 RB's in a 42x60 hoop building with 5' pony wall. I only go 3 high because that is the max reach of my loader. (I bale 5x5.5 bales mostly.) the 5' pony wall makes it a lot easier to get the bales on the outside rows in and out without having to worry about hitting the frame too much -- I still have to watch it, but not as bad.

If all your hay is one type, alfalfa, OG, timothy, etc., longer is better. If mixed, say some alfalfa, some grass, two shorter buildings would be better. Mixing in one hoop building gets tough.

Just my thoughts.

Ralph


----------



## Coondle

I take it you mean bales 5 feet wide and 6 feet round.

Layer 1, is therefore 5 feet high because the roll is upright..

Layer 2, adds another 6 feet and therefore goes to 11 feet high.

Layer 3 , adds about another 4feet 6 inches and therefore reaches 15 feet 6 inches.

The last layer on top adds about a further 4 feet 6 inches and therefore reaches 20 feet.

Somedevildawg may be right at 19 feet if the rolls on their flat nestle to less than a 4 foot 6 inch rise.

In any event depending on the gear you handle the bales with, you need some clearance at the top to clear the loader frame if it reaches above the bale, and at least some room for tilt/lift to clear the bale below.

A good loader or telehandler will do the job of placing and removing the bales.

Also allow a margin for the curve of the hoop, although the bales are round your equipment may have square fitments sticking out from the curve of the bale.

Buildings lose their new shine if a hay spear punctures it or it is hit with a piece of loader hardware.  Usually when buildings get hit they stay hit. :angry:

A hoop building can have varying profiles depending on the height of side walls (if any). A perfect hoop to be 19 feet high would give a width at base of 38 feet. If you place 6 foot dia bales upright you get 6 bales wide, just but the clearance is not there to place 6 bales on their side on top of the base. The result would be something like 6, 4, 2, 1 per layer, ie 13 per rank meaning a building about 200 feet long to store 400 bales. 13 per rank x 30 ranks at 6 feet 6 inches per rank = 195 feet, storing 390 bales.

A flatter curve hoop, ie cut off above the centre line of the circle, results in a much more rapid reduction in the number of bales per layer but a wider footprint to deliver a 19 foot height.

My suggestion is to cut out some cardboard template bales to scale and see the hoop shape and size best suited to your needs.

Whatever happens there is no perfect building profile to deliver a building without wasted space to store round bales.

There are other posts concerning hoop barns/buildings on this forum, a search will give good information already posted.

Best of luck with your deliberations


----------



## JMT

Thanks for the replies. 4 feet 6 inches per layer for 5x6 round bales stacked "pyramid" style is helpful. Cardboard templates is also a good idea, Thanks Coondle for the input.

I think a pony wall is important. Not only for clearance but also for using the building for other uses when it is empty. I don't think I would like having cattle near a hoop building without one. Especially if it is a "fabric building".
Most of what I store is fescue/mixed grass, but I would like to mix in some alfalfa. I can see where a wider building or two buildings would be better. Thanks rjmoses.

How does a long building have more "head" room? Could you explain what you mean by that somedevildawg? Thanks.

I have also heard that it is a good idea to have some extra clearance for airflow and heating, especially for a hoop building. Comments on this would be great.

Also, I have read that you can build a hoop building on a slight grade. Has anyone done this? I can see how stacking 4 high on a slight slope could be difficult. Would have to be real careful to not push the stack over. Is there any other pitfalls in putting up a building on a slight grade?

Again, thanks for the replies.


----------



## somedevildawg

JMT said:


> Thanks for the replies. 4 feet 6 inches per layer for 5x6 round bales stacked "pyramid" style is helpful. Cardboard templates is also a good idea, Thanks Coondle for the input.I think a pony wall is important. Not only for clearance but also for using the building for other uses when it is empty. I don't think I would like having cattle near a hoop building without one. Especially if it is a "fabric building".Most of what I store is fescue/mixed grass, but I would like to mix in some alfalfa. I can see where a wider building or two buildings would be better. Thanks rjmoses.How does a long building have more "head" room? Could you explain what you mean by that somedevildawg? Thanks.I have also heard that it is a good idea to have some extra clearance for airflow and heating, especially for a hoop building. Comments on this would be great.Also, I have read that you can build a hoop building on a slight grade. Has anyone done this? I can see how stacking 4 high on a slight slope could be difficult. Would have to be real careful to not push the stack over. Is there any other pitfalls in putting up a building on a slight grade?Again, thanks for the replies.


Probably not the best term to use....I was speaking of the fact that the center of the building is the highest, thus allowing the center to hold the maximum amount vs. farther out to the sides where the "head" room diminishes...that's all....I don't think I'm going to build off of grade unless I absolutely cannot help it, at 4 high a small grade can turn into trouble, especially when retrieving bales. Are you stacking with a FEL on a tractor with forks/spear? Or, are you using something like a telehandler with a squeeze....


----------



## Coondle

A word of warning, bale density and dimensions vary for many reasons so do not take 4foot 6inches as absolute. You need to try your bales and you need margin for ir flow. There is an interesting clip on you tube stacking bales in a hoop building, Ido not know if I have enough tech savvy to give the site but Mr google will find it under "stacking hay" by Marty Lappin. Or try this http://youtu.be/i_VZcOpbq-4%C2

The bales are stacked on end and staggered giving good air circulation, the backhoe boom looks interesting and could become very interesting if too near the hoop :wub:

The loader is at the end of its stick at 4 high and some of the bales give a good wobble when the top one is placed.


----------



## JMT

I am stacking with a bale spear on a FEL. Spear is a double spear mounted on a 3pt bale lift made to fit the FEL. Lift raises an additional 3 feet so I can reach 4 high.

The double spears make it a little difficult to spear and to "let go" of a bale so I would much prefer a level site. I have put stacks under a tarp on a slight slope and once you get a stable base to stack against it is not difficult.

A wider building would fit better than a longer one at my site. Anything over 80 feet long would get into a lot more dirt work. I think something like a 60' wide by 80' long would work good.

Anybody have any issues with a building that wide?.... Construction?
Hay exposure on ends?
Sturdiness?
Wind?

Thanks again for input.


----------



## deadmoose

Try a dry run stacking a "wall" of bales outside. Then take out your tape measure. As said add for tipping, moving lifting etc. It will be more accurate than cardboard.


----------

