# How long to keep a round baler and other ?'s



## JD3430 (Jan 1, 2012)

So I've had my BR7060 since 8/2012. Has ~9000 bales on it, mostly baled on ROUGH ground.

Feel like it's decision time.

2016 replaced computer box and a few bearings @ about $3,000

2017 replaced actuator arm, about $1,000. Also had to have more bearings to replace because I got a rock caught in rollers.

Not the balers fault. Also replaced both tires. Again not balers fault. Have had "glitchy" duckbill intermittant net wrap issues here and there, too.

My operation was 1,200+ bales per year. This year it should jump to 1,700+/-. The baler looks good, but has had some "surgery". I hate break downs and I really don't have a baler to borrow when the shit hits the fan.

Is it time for a new baler? I damn near bought one end of last year. I'm kind of happy I took pause to reflect on the decision. If I understand other local farmers correctly, they say trading equipment when it still looks/works good is cheaper in the long run, because there's only a 10-15% markup on new equipment sales, but there's a 40% markup on parts.

Meaning the equipment dealers love it when you keep older equipment because more money is made on parts. I'm sure service pays big dividends to dealer as well.

I can probably get a new 450 Roll Belt SS with some extras for about $16K trading in my BR7060. If I don't kick in any cash, thats about $300/mo.

Really wondering if $300/mo buys me enough "security" to be worth that? $3,600/year buys a lot of parts and repairs, but breakdowns from lack of reliability of an older baler are "priceless" with a good baling day lost. I really want a Krone or McHale, but WOW talk about $$$

Decisions, decisions!


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## Eastfreo (Aug 15, 2017)

Something our engineers at where I worked (one of the world's largest LNG projects) introduced me to was the bathtub realibility curve. Basically was explained to me how every piece of machinery has a curve you can plot failures on and what we all need to do is change over before the failure rate increases at the end of the useful life cycle. These guys work it out carefully because a days down time can get into significant millions of dollars.

Basically I reckon from what you are saying you are on the upward tradectory for more failures so I'd move it on before it costs you more.


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## rjmoses (Apr 4, 2010)

Eastfreo said:


> Something our engineers at where I worked (one of the world's largest LNG projects) introduced me to was the bathtub realibility curve. Basically was explained to me how every piece of machinery has a curve you can plot failures on and what we all need to do is change over before the failure rate increases at the end of the useful life cycle. These guys work it out carefully because a days down time can get into significant millions of dollars.


Right on! Bathtub curve is a reality.

First major repair--pay attention (get ready).

Second major repair--start looking at options (get set).

Third major repair--pull the trigger (go).

In your volume, consider downtime and possible lost crop as a cost of repair. Losing 100 bales due to a failure is $1500.

Ralph


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## carcajou (Jan 28, 2011)

Buy a slightly used one at a great price and keep yours as a backup. Might save some money too.


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## JD3430 (Jan 1, 2012)

carcajou said:


> Buy a slightly used one at a great price and keep yours as a backup. Might save some money too.


I like buying slightly used but part of the appeal of new is warranty and dealer support
I'd lose that


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## PaMike (Dec 7, 2013)

My BR740A has 22k bales on it. Never left me sit except for a broken chain on a pickup auger..


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## slowzuki (Mar 8, 2011)

There must be some good financing on the new Kubota balers and hay tools as a ton of them have showed up in our area in the last year.


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## Idaho Hay (Oct 14, 2016)

Do you like the machine that you have? If so, and you don't mind working on equipment in the off season, then a rebuilt old machine can be just as reliable as a new one for way less money. However, if you want to upgrade the machine to something better, then I would definitely conciser trading it in for new. I will admit that 0% 84 month financing helps make new equipment purchases pretty palatable.


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## carcajou (Jan 28, 2011)

JD3430 said:


> I like buying slightly used but part of the appeal of new is warranty and dealer support
> I'd lose that


I know i speak for the "other side" on this. If your dealer has 1) great inventory of parts on hand for said baler, and 2) loaner balers available in season if yours goes down, then great, dealer support matters. I usually find that not the case though. As for warranty most problems on balers sort themselves out in the first 1000 bales so i don't put much stock in warranties on balers. To me the best support and warranty is a second or in my case a 4th baler there if i need it. In a half hr or less i'm back in the field. Even down for a day can mean 300 bales rained on.....


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## carcajou (Jan 28, 2011)

Idaho Hay said:


> Do you like the machine that you have? If so, and you don't mind working on equipment in the off season, then a rebuilt old machine can be just as reliable as a new one for way less money. However, if you want to upgrade the machine to something better, then I would definitely conciser trading it in for new. I will admit that 0% 84 month financing helps make new equipment purchases pretty palatable.


Don't kid yourself that interest in built in somewhere in the purchase price.


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## r82230 (Mar 1, 2016)

One thing that might be important in your case, if you are baling mainly 'mulch hay'. So a question comes to mind, does the rained on hay get discounted? It not, that (non-cost of losing value) could also placed in the equation, IMHO.

Larry


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## krone.1 (Jul 28, 2013)

Krone and McHale are 2 great choices imo... I favor one over the other though..... seriously, there are some great baler choices now. Used to be that round balers were kind of cookie cutter, close in features and performance, but now balers have a uniqueness depending on the brand. If I were prosperous and affluent like all the rest of you haytalkers, and was in the market for a new round baler, then I'm going to get some stick time before I drop 30 to 50k

Your parts bill can be the difference between red and black ink.

I hate "finance" deals. Nothing free but gravity. Yes we have it but had to do it. Just pencil cash v. Finance when shopping


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## JD3430 (Jan 1, 2012)

r82230 said:


> One thing that might be important in your case, if you are baling mainly 'mulch hay'. So a question comes to mind, does the rained on hay get discounted? It not, that (non-cost of losing value) could also placed in the equation, IMHO.
> 
> Larry


The rained on hay can bring same price if allowed to dry, but there's other considerations:

1. I overload myself with more hay than if I was making pretty hay because it pays less per ton. So even if my may can be rained on, it still needs to be baled up quickly. Goal is 18% max moisture since every bale is subject to testing. If hay is laying around for too long, the rake will start tearing off new growth and it makes for higher moisture and other problems.
2. I make about 200 round bales for feed, so any field could become pretty hay. 
3. Most of my customers want me to get done quickly.

I want to get baled up quickly so a dependable baler without breakdowns is really important.

So many choices: 1 new baler, 2 used balers, all the different brands. AGCO impresses me the most with the 2 year warranty. NH is my go-to brand for dealer service. Krone is my "dream" baler-tailor made for my operation. McHale is supposedly an amazing baler. 
Pretty sure I will end up New Holland again, but I thought I would get your opinions.


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## Gearclash (Nov 25, 2010)

In theory it is very simple to decide when to trade to a new baler: when it costs more per bale to own a used baler than a new one. The problem is that some things can be hard to assign a cost to, plus everyone's situation is a little different.

I operate somewhat like carcajou suggests, buy a low bales used baler and run it.

My experience with New Holland round balers it that if thorough preseason maintenance is done, they will do 2-3,000 bales with nothing beyond basic care, even if the baler has a higher bale count. Once you get into the 15-20,000 bales range it seems the probability of more major repairs become likely. Last season was kind of expensive for my oldest baler which finished the season with 23,000 bales on it, but I don't think I spent much over $1 per bale in repairs to get it through the season. Depreciation on that baler is virtually zero.


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## 8350HiTech (Jul 26, 2013)

JD3430 said:


> The rained on hay can bring same price if allowed to dry, but there's other considerations:
> 
> 1. I overload myself with more hay than if I was making pretty hay because it pays less per ton. So even if my may can be rained on, it still needs to be baled up quickly. Goal is 18% max moisture since every bale is subject to testing. If hay is laying around for too long, the rake will start tearing off new growth and it makes for higher moisture and other problems.
> 2. I make about 200 round bales for feed, so any field could become pretty hay.
> ...


I still think if you're going to own two balers one should be a well used 4x4. Cheap to buy even for a good runner. And you'd get your premium for squares on some of your mulch hay. Only issue would be if your round broke down while baling feed hay but it sounds like you're saying you could make feed hay off of other fields.


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## JD3430 (Jan 1, 2012)

Gearclash said:


> In theory it is very simple to decide when to trade to a new baler: when it costs more per bale to own a used baler than a new one. The problem is that some things can be hard to assign a cost to, plus everyone's situation is a little different.
> 
> I operate somewhat like carcajou suggests, buy a low bales used baler and run it.
> 
> My experience with New Holland round balers it that if thorough preseason maintenance is done, they will do 2-3,000 bales with nothing beyond basic care, even if the baler has a higher bale count. Once you get into the 15-20,000 bales range it seems the probability of more major repairs become likely. Last season was kind of expensive for my oldest baler which finished the season with 23,000 bales on it, but I don't think I spent much over $1 per bale in repairs to get it through the season. Depreciation on that baler is virtually zero.


I like all that you say is true, but then theres the "crystal ball" which none of us have. We dont know what the future brings. Its likely that as the future unfolds, baler becomes less reliable.

I'd say my cost/bale of round baler ownership is $2.50/bale. ($3,000 in repairs/year and 1.200 bales)

Sounds a little high to me when you are averaging about $50/bale in gross profit.

New baler after trade in will be about $300/month or $3,600/yr or $3.00/bale ($3,600 in payments and 1,200 bales). And thats if I dont kick in anything to reduce the cost of those payments.

Now that I added 50 more acres of hay, I should jump to more like 1,700 bales, I'm thinking that although the cost per bale remains the same as it relates to new baler versus my paid off baler, reliability becomes more of an issue because more bales means more stress on an older baler and add to that the need to get fields done sooner, etc.

Then there's the un-measurable "cost" of the stress of breakdowns.


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## JD3430 (Jan 1, 2012)

8350HiTech said:


> I still think if you're going to own two balers one should be a well used 4x4. Cheap to buy even for a good runner. And you'd get your premium for squares on some of your mulch hay. Only issue would be if your round broke down while baling feed hay but it sounds like you're saying you could make feed hay off of other fields.


I know its a great option......have kicked it around for hours...have a tractor that can handle a 4x4, too... and 4x4's are somewhat affordable.

https://www.tractorhouse.com/listings/farm-equipment/for-sale/25173003/2001-hesston-4910?CTRY=USA

If I made 400 tons of mushroom hay and it pays $10 more/ton, it would up my gross profit $4,000

Seen any good ones you can post a link to?


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## mike10 (May 29, 2011)

By spending a day going over your baler, you could virtually eliminate any breakdowns. Still no 100% guarentee but neither does a new baler or else there would be no need for a warranty.

Your cost per bale is not figured correctly. You contend you spent 4000 doing 9000 bales so .4444444 per bale. I also question the amout you said you spent on the controller since the controller is way less than 1000.00. I am not questioning the amount you spent, but clearly there was more to it than the controller.

I think you have new baleritus and there is nothing wrong with that, I have the same affliction only on a new vehicle for the wife, or at least that is what I say.


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## JD3430 (Jan 1, 2012)

mike10 said:


> By spending a day going over your baler, you could virtually eliminate any breakdowns. Still no 100% guarentee but neither does a new baler or else there would be no need for a warranty.
> 
> Your cost per bale is not figured correctly. You contend you spent 4000 doing 9000 bales so .4444444 per bale. I also question the amout you said you spent on the controller since the controller is way less than 1000.00. I am not questioning the amount you spent, but clearly there was more to it than the controller.
> 
> I think you have new baleritus and there is nothing wrong with that, I have the same affliction only on a new vehicle for the wife, or at least that is what I say.


Respectfully: Hold on a minute Mike10: I spent $4,000 in the last 2 years of owning the baler. It's pretty safe to assume that most of the time repairs increase over time, correct? Every piece of equipment I've owned in the last 30 years needs more repairs as time elapses, not less. Factoring in the first year of ownership when repairs are covered under warranty is pretty pointless. I mean who's going to pay for a major baler repair when NH covers it? 2nd year is usually pretty trouble free, too.

I think averaging the last 2 years of ownership is more indicative of whats to come and cost of ownership moving forward than factoring in the first year or 2 years when basically NOTHING goes wrong with a baler, or if it is, it's paid for by NH.

The controller was $1,000 because it took the tech 3-4 hours of labor to locate the problem.


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## mike10 (May 29, 2011)

I get where you are coming from, but wear starts with the first use so the total use of the baler should be used when doing the calculations. Also if damage was done due to the ingestion of a rock then that repair should not be included in the calculations.

Not to change the subject, but did you turn the rock damage into your insurance? Many farm policies cover damage of that sort, at least in our area.

I do agree that the more use a piece of equipment has the more likley repairs will be needed. My point was those types of repairs and the downtime can be mitigated by doing a thourough check over before the season starts. Balers are not like engines and transmissions where you have numerous components that can fail.


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## JD3430 (Jan 1, 2012)

The rock ingestion was not included.
I don't disagree with what your saying, but repair costs aren't linear. They increase as time rolls on. A 6yr old Baler, even while still a solid baler, is going to need more money spent from here on and on average, will only increase.

The "bathtub curve", right? 
If repairs are going to run in the thousands per year, a new baler or maybe an additional used baler might be a consideration.
Money (or lack thereof) may also keep me exactly where I am.


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## Gearclash (Nov 25, 2010)

Depreciation isn't linear either.


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## JD3430 (Jan 1, 2012)

Gearclash said:


> Depreciation isn't linear either.


Yep, definitely take the biggest hit in the beginning


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## BWfarms (Aug 3, 2015)

krone.1 said:


> I hate "finance" deals. Nothing free but gravity. Yes we have it but had to do it. Just pencil cash v. Finance when shopping


I prefer to hold my cash as I can make more money faster than any interest I save on financing unless it's something super. Interest does pay favorably towards income credits. Cash keeps power in your favor for unexpected things.

Dealer will give you a finance price higher than your cash price. You can get their cash price and finance through another bank. Therefore bypassing 'dealer reserve' where they say car is 0% but you qualified for 1.9%, dealer pockets 1.9% over the sale.

For me, I can finance used tractors (any equipment for that matter) on low interest yearly payments. CNH will finance tractors older than conventional bank notes if it's on a dealer lot. I can get exactly what I want and come out ahead.

I've financed dealer and third party. If I want something, I don't worry about getting turned down because I know I can pick the best option, keep my cash. Another thing I will do is keep my down payments low or none at all.


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## Tx Jim (Jun 30, 2014)

If I spent $4K in repairs in 2 yrs on my rd baler I'd be looking for another baler. It's hard to understand how a rock can cause that much damage to a rd baler. I've dug rocks,short sections of 4X4 lumber & tee posts out of my baler then went right back to baling. I just consider these objects hazards of custom baling hay.


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## JD3430 (Jan 1, 2012)

Tx Jim said:


> If I spent $4K in repairs in 2 yrs on my rd baler I'd be looking for another baler. It's hard to understand how a rock can cause that much damage to a rd baler. I've dug rocks,short sections of 4X4 lumber & tee posts out of my baler then went right back to baling. I just consider these objects hazards of custom baling hay.


Me, too. And I wish I had your luck. 
I'd have to go back and look at the repair order, but I think it bent a shaft and took out a few bearings. It put a dent in one of the rollers. According to the service writer, they had to take the baler apart to fix it. 
But Once again, I'm not even including the rock ingestion repairs as part of my last 2 years of ownership. Damage is not the balers fault.

First 2 years of ownership not too bad. The subsequent 2 years had all the repairs.
If I'm averaging $2,000/yr over the last 2 years, not including the rock damage which is not NH or the balers fault, I'm thinking the baler is going to need more and more repairs, not less. 
I guess I could get lucky and things could get better, but as I said earlier, my experience is that as a piece of equipment ages, it's components wear more and more, causing more repairs and more catastrophic failures. 
I'm not saying I support this, but the more successful big timers in my area are never seen operating older equipment. Maybe they're success is partly attributable to the fact that they don't tolerate older equipment breakdowns?
I'm not disparaging anyone who owns older equipment!!!!! I own a lot of 10+ yr old stuff!!!!


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## Tx Jim (Jun 30, 2014)

IMHO BTO have an image(ego) to maintain that requires presence of new shiny equipment with nice large payments. LOL


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## JD3430 (Jan 1, 2012)

Tx Jim said:


> IMHO BTO have an image(ego) to maintain that requires presence of new shiny equipment with nice large payments. LOL


TRUE!
But I also think "how did they get to be a BTO"? Lol
I observe what they do. 
The biggest difference I see is I'm round baling and they're baling big squares. 
I may go back to my idea from a year ago of going to a 4x4. Hi techs suggestion got me thinking about it again. The 4x4's are dirt cheap. I confess it's a little intimidating. No idea how to repair.


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## Tx Jim (Jun 30, 2014)

JD3430 said:


> TRUE!
> But I also think "how did they get to be a BTO"? Lol
> I observe what they do.


Crop insurance/goverment hand out $$$$$$$ recieved LOL Owing more than their net worth might be another way.


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## Trotwood2955 (Sep 4, 2012)

Something else to keep in mind. I'm assuming your current baler is now paid for. So that $3k/year in repairs, if you end up seeing that each year, is your main outflow. Some years you might have that expense, some years more than likely not. For example, I can't imagine your controller box would go out again or anytime soon. That just seems like an uncommon thing.

You mention that these repairs were in the last couple years so assuming you financed on 5 years, you had payments plus repairs. How would that be any different than buying a new one? You would have the payments plus potential repairs once out of warranty vs. keeping the one you have and running for a few more years.

Decisions, decisions. I can understand wanting your baler to be in top shape and ready when you need it. I just also have gotten cynical on newer equipment. Everything I've upgraded in recent years has been more cheaply made (my opinion) than what it replaced.

When my 7060 gets a few more bales I might keep it as a backup and get another one slightly used as others have mentioned. Hope that's a few years away!


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## mike10 (May 29, 2011)

BTO = OPM, other peoples money


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## JD3430 (Jan 1, 2012)

Yeah maybe some, I'm sure, but there's some self funded, too.
I don't want to be a BIG time BTO, but a smaller BTO, lol
1,000 tons would be like an ultimate for me.


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## somedevildawg (Jun 20, 2011)

mike10 said:


> BTO = OPM, other peoples money


You are right with that equation Mike....sadly, that's the state of farming and has been for 40yrs or so. I personally don't get any handouts, nor do I want any, but government subsidies and insurance has ruined any possiblility to make it pencil out without it  that's sad, but true....they can't help but be on the government dole, they make it too easy to screw them, the problem is....we are the government and that's a fact lost on a lot of folks, including BTO's


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## JD3430 (Jan 1, 2012)

Tx Jim said:


> Crop insurance/goverment hand out $$$$$$$ recieved LOL Owing more than their net worth might be another way.


I aint even goin there!

I wouldnt even know where to ask for any "govt dole" money. I've never taken a penny of assistance and don't plan on it.

Owing more than net worth isnt a problem I have, either.


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## mike10 (May 29, 2011)

Someone told me once that they farm the government, not the ground.


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## T & R Hay Farms (Jan 19, 2012)

JD 3430,

For what its worth we purchased a 568 with around 18k bales on it for our main baler in 2011. We then baled mostly grass hay and some wheat straw. Averaged roughly 1,000-1,500 bales a year. In 2014 we purchased a new 569 round baler and kept the 568. The 569 now has 12,000 bales on it. We have also increased in the amount of wheat straw and cornstalks are not baled. We bale about 4,000 bales a year average. During cornstalks we will run both balers and also wheat straw if being rained on is a concern. The 568 has around 26k bales on it now.

On the 568 we have bent 3 input shalves and spliced a few belts. Teeth have needed replacing but that will happen when baling ditches. The 569 has had a belt splice and a few broken teeth in its 12,000 bale career.

I do not know how rough your fields are on your equipment, but the bale count you show on your baler does not seem worrisome to me. I would keep running the baler that is paid for. I do know that around the 10k bale mark is where a price drop seems to occur. We decided not to sell the 569 before it reached 10k bales, since we perform all the maintenance ourselves and feel like the money on a new round baler would be better spent on different machinery. .

It is a slippery slope, and whatever decision you make, just push forward and reassure yourself you made the right choice.


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## JD3430 (Jan 1, 2012)

Thanks T&R.
I'm basically a one man operation. I want to make as much hay as I can within reason. I'm really on the doorstep of a big square, but have not taken the plunge yet. Something nice about net wrapped RBs.
I'm pretty sure the chances are I will be staying with what I have, but boy do I hate breakdowns....


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## T & R Hay Farms (Jan 19, 2012)

JD3430 said:


> Thanks T&R.
> I'm basically a one man operation. I want to make as much hay as I can within reason. I'm really on the doorstep of a big square, but have not taken the plunge yet. Something nice about net wrapped RBs.
> I'm pretty sure the chances are I will be staying with what I have, but boy do I hate breakdowns....


We are just my dad and I. We also made the plunge last year and bought a 3x3x8 square baler. Baled 2000 Straw bales as well. It made us more diversified, but it also means they must be baled and put inside or under a tarp right away.


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## TJ Hendren (May 12, 2017)

A dealer friend told me around here the magic number was 10,000 bales for the most bang at trade time.


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## JD3430 (Jan 1, 2012)

T & R Hay Farms said:


> We are just my dad and I. We also made the plunge last year and bought a 3x3x8 square baler. Baled 2000 Straw bales as well. It made us more diversified, but it also means they must be baled and put inside or under a tarp right away.


My son is just about to graduate-he's senior in high school. Going to college in Maryland to play D-1 lacrosse and become a teacher. He seems to be interested in helping me during his summers he will have off from college then his job, but I can't 100% count on it. So the only one I can really count on is me. It's a "me, myself and I" operation. Lol
Trying to come up with the most efficient/profitable way to make big tonnage hay (~2000 RBs) for mushroom companies to use in my area, and maybe a small amount (~200 RBs) for feed hay by myself. 
Only thing you can seem to count on is things change every year-equipment, acreage, expenses, weather, customers.....you name it!
I really hate the thought of dragging out those giant tarps for square bale hay!!! Getting up on those high stacks later in life won't be easy. I love those big open hay sheds they have out west. Ultimately, I believe a 4x5.5' round bale may be the most efficient round bale package since it will weigh >1,000lbs, but still be able to be trucked under highway underpasses.


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## bool (Mar 14, 2016)

Big square bales are denser than big rounds ,which along with their squareness, makes them efficient for transport. Because of the density, they need to be made at a lower moisture content than rounds. It is too hard to dry hay to that degree round here so everyone, no matter how big an operator, makes rounds. Some people buy in big squares. They cover the stacks with plastic caps, one cap per bale. You fasten the cap on the top bale while it is still on the ground. There is a short cable at each corner of the cap and you screw the bottom of the cable to the side of the bale with a big plastic screw using a cordless screwdriver. The caps have an upturned edge on the long side that runs the water along the length of the bale. Then you fork the top bale and put it on the top of the stack. No climbing on the stack, no wrangling big tarps. The caps are tougher and last longer than a tarp.

Roger


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## JD3430 (Jan 1, 2012)

Yeah I have seen them elsewhere, but here, tarps still reign supreme.
One of my pals square bales and his biggest challenge is the top bales basically becoming sponges.
All our scale houses probe our bales.
Each big bale is tested. All the moisture readings are added together then divided by the number of bales.
Anything over 18% results in being docked.


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## Gearclash (Nov 25, 2010)

I’m going to suggest the density difference between round and square is shrinking. 4x4 sq and 5x6 rnd are nearly the same volume and it is surprising how similar the bale weights are.


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## JD3430 (Jan 1, 2012)

More NH BR7060 "fun" today!
Under perfectly sunny skies and amazing baling weather at 4PM today, the upper rear belt roller let go. The roll literally tore itself off the inside of the bearing. Bearings greased rigorously.
Looks like at least $1,000 in parts. Notice the side frame of baler bent, too.


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## rjmoses (Apr 4, 2010)

JD3430 said:


> More NH BR7060 "fun" today!
> Under perfectly sunny skies and amazing baling weather at 4PM today, the upper rear belt roller let go. The roll literally tore itself off the inside of the bearing. Bearings greased rigorously.
> Looks like at least $1,000 in parts. Notice the side frame of baler bent, too.


From the picture, that looks like it might have been metal fatigue on the roller. Did the shaft stay in the bearing?

Ralph


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## endrow (Dec 15, 2011)

Picture or two from the end of the roller would be helpful I think it looks like the shaft broke can't tell for sure. Also wondering do you make every Bale full up to 60 in we do not we stopped about 2 to 4in down even what we're calling a full Bale. Will the clutch slip on the baler if you overfill a bale


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## JD3430 (Jan 1, 2012)

rjmoses said:


> From the picture, that looks like it might have been metal fatigue on the roller. Did the shaft stay in the bearing?
> 
> Ralph


It was metal fatigue. The roller is torn off the inside of the bearing.
the shaft stayed in the bearing.


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## JD3430 (Jan 1, 2012)

endrow said:


> Picture or two from the end of the roller would be helpful I think it looks like the shaft broke can't tell for sure. Also wondering do you make every Bale full up to 60 in we do not we stopped about 2 to 4in down even what we're calling a full Bale. Will the clutch slip on the baler if you overfill a bale


I do make full, 60" dense bales. Haven't s een any signs of problems making 60". I keep telling my salesman I'd be better off making 60" bales with a 72" baler. 
I could back off to 58", but with it would come a lot more bale loading. 
In the picture, the baler had a 56" bale in the chamber when the roller let go.

Wondering if it's time to say goodbye. Been nothing but headaches for the last few years. 
Along with the repair expense, the downtime during perfect baling weather is tough to take.

$31,000 for a new NH450 roll belt baler!


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## carcajou (Jan 28, 2011)

It will happen with bales two inches smaller too. I saw two NH 780a balers fail there in one season when they were custom bailing with us.


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## Gearclash (Nov 25, 2010)

I had something similar happen last fall with a 780A, only it was a nose roll. Baler had approximately 21,000 bales on though.

79274-new-holland-br-series-nose-roll-failure

One thing to do is be SURE that the bale size, as measured with a tape measure, corresponds with what the monitor shows at full bale. Especially if you are going to go right to the nominal full size bale for the baler.


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## JD3430 (Jan 1, 2012)

Would it be advisable to buy a 4x6 baler with the thought that making 5' bales would be less stressful on the baler?
I like my dealer and the way they treat me, but not 100% sold on the NH baler quality.
Wonder if 450/460 built any better/stronger?


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## Gearclash (Nov 25, 2010)

From a technical point of view I don't think there is any difference in stress on the baler making a 60" bale in a 60" baler vs a 72" baler, but the risk of an oversize bale is pretty much eliminated with the 72" baler. Its the oversize bale that will wreck things.

In my opinion, New Holland likes to call the stress tolerance of some of their parts kinda close.


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## rjmoses (Apr 4, 2010)

Gearclash said:


> One thing to do is be SURE that the bale size, as measured with a tape measure, corresponds with what the monitor shows at full bale. Especially if you are going to go right to the nominal full size bale for the baler.


THIS IS RIGHT ON! I made that mistake when my 780A was new. I assumed that if the calibration was good as 60", it would be good at 72"---nope!

Scared the blackberry juice out of me when I had smoke and loud undesirable noises coming out of the slip clutch because the bale couldn't turn. Now, I don't go over 68" under any circumstances.

Ralph


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## woodland (May 23, 2016)

rjmoses said:


> THIS IS RIGHT ON! I made that mistake when my 780A was new. I assumed that if the calibration was good as 60", it would be good at 72"---nope!
> 
> Scared the blackberry juice out of me when I had smoke and loud undesirable noises coming out of the slip clutch because the bale couldn't turn. Now, I don't go over 68" under any circumstances.
> 
> Ralph


Our Deere's have a warning when you build an oversized bale. A micro switch trips when the tensioning roll travels too far and a buzzer goes in the monitor.

Do other brands not have this?

The only time it doesn't work is if the monitor is turned off then you break one of the tailgate latches. Don't ask how I know this????


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## bool (Mar 14, 2016)

My Claas Rollant 66 uses the pressure in the hydraulic tailgate rams to hold the tailgate closed. If you try to over-stuff it the tailgate starts to open. The valves are a bit worn and occasionally it opens a bit anyway so I give the hydraulic lever a nudge once or twice while the bale forms.

Roger


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## JD3430 (Jan 1, 2012)

I'm back in business and made another 25 bales.
Hopefully the drama and lightening of my bank account slows down


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## Trotwood2955 (Sep 4, 2012)

Glad you're back in business. You must have a good dealer to fit you in that fast this time of year, or did you do the repairs yourself? How did they/you get the side sheet metal perfectly straightened out?

If I was closer I'd have brought my 7060 to help you finish up!


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## PaMike (Dec 7, 2013)

JD3430 said:


> I'm back in business and made another 25 bales.
> Hopefully the drama and lightening of my bank account slows down


Kinda surprised that roll was in stock. Did they get it at the Mountville Depot?


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## JD3430 (Jan 1, 2012)

Trotwood2955 said:


> Glad you're back in business. You must have a good dealer to fit you in that fast this time of year, or did you do the repairs yourself? How did they/you get the side sheet metal perfectly straightened out?
> 
> If I was closer I'd have brought my 7060 to help you finish up!


You're a good man for offering to do that! Rare to hear someone even offer to help like that in today's world. 
I had the dealer do it and I kept raking and cut another 15 acres. Figured better to keep haying for the $300 labor. 
They did a nice job straightening the side panel!
Looks good, bales good so far. AG Industrial is my dealer for NH. They stayed open late for me to bring the baler down and had it finished by 1pm today.
They are very good people. Very good service.


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## JD3430 (Jan 1, 2012)

PaMike said:


> Kinda surprised that roll was in stock. Did they get it at the Mountville Depot?


Yes


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## Gearclash (Nov 25, 2010)

PaMike said:


> Kinda surprised that roll was in stock. Did they get it at the Mountville Depot?


There are a lot of those rollers out there. Two on most every 4' wide BR7XX, BR7XXA, BR7XXX. Same deal on the 5' balers. And these things must break fairly often, I replaced two roller last fall, didn't have to wait long to get them.


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## IH 1586 (Oct 16, 2014)

JD3430 said:


> You're a good man for offering to do that!
> I had the dealer do it and I kept raking and cut another 15 acres.
> They did a nice job straightening the side panel!
> Looks good, bales good so far. AG Industrial is my dealer for NH. They stayed open late for me to bring the baler down and had it finished by 1pm today.
> They are very good people. Very good service.


That is a good dealership/customer service there. You are VERY lucky to have one like that. I'm sure there are many on here that would wish to have a dealer half that good.


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## JD3430 (Jan 1, 2012)

IH 1586 said:


> That is a good dealership/customer service there. You are VERY lucky to have one like that. I'm sure there are many on here that would wish to have a dealer half that good.


Ive bought 3-4 pieces from them over the last 6 years. 
So I guess I'm dedicated to them and they're dedicated to me. 
MM Weaver very good, too.


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## luke strawwalker (Jul 31, 2014)

bool said:


> My Claas Rollant 66 uses the pressure in the hydraulic tailgate rams to hold the tailgate closed. If you try to over-stuff it the tailgate starts to open. The valves are a bit worn and occasionally it opens a bit anyway so I give the hydraulic lever a nudge once or twice while the bale forms.
> 
> Roger


Yeah, that's how my old Ford 552 (Gehl 1400) works... the bale pushes the tailgate back against cylinder pressure being relieved by a pressure regulating relief valve; if the bale gets oversize the back door is open enough the hay just dumps out the back onto the ground as the bale keeps turning...

Tying one of those is fun LOL You have to stop, shut down, go back, find the twine, and stuff it between the bale and the bottom roller/belt, so it starts wrapping around the bale, then turn everything back on and finish wrapping it with twine before you drop it, then bale up what spilled out the back...

But at least nothing breaks (well, not til the crummy factory welds on the tailgate turned loose year before last and I had to straighten everything back out and weld everything back solid...) Hey, at least she's paid for! OL J R


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## JD3430 (Jan 1, 2012)

I was told my the NH dealership that it looked like the metal fatigue had started some time ago. Tech said it looked like about 1/2 the metal around the circumference was already separated before the other 1/2 gave out completely.


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