# Clutching on hay tractor. Asking for problems?



## fastline (Mar 2, 2013)

Getting nervous with all this clutch work with my Case 1170 doing haying work. I just have to slow down at times to get baler to pickup, turning with rake, loading hay, etc. I try to use the throttle to modulate things where I can. I know there is very little actual load on the tractor in the way of pull force but I certainly do NOT want to deal with a clutch problem. Just looking at splitting this tractor gives me nightmares. Remove cab, all wiring, etc, etc, just to put a clutch in.....


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## WaterShedRanch (Jan 29, 2012)

I've often had that thought myself. I had a JD 5410 that had 2100 hrs. on it of which 90% was loader use. Not hard loader use but stacking bales. Constantly forward reverse, over and over again using the shuttle shift, slipping the clutch for precise placement. I Just talked my old man into trading it in concern that sooner or later something was going to get weak. Some guys are harder on stuff than others. I take care of my equipment but I ask a lot of it when it's time to go. If you think you have a problem with your clutch or it's getting time for replacement. I would make it a winter project! Then next summer you can go to the field with a good piece of mind.


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## fastline (Mar 2, 2013)

It really is a catch 22 right now. I just bought the tractor with the owner stating that the clutch does not have 200hrs on it. He also said the engine had 200hrs on it, but that was 10yrs ago with an hr meter that does not work. It is just hard to judge the clutch and I certainly am not going to split it on a whim. This is NOT an easy tractor to work on.

I should probably ask the owner again to see how "new" it really is. I know he split the tractor with a throwout bearing issue and did replace the clutch. I mean, who would go that far and not, right? I can tell it was split by all the half ass work and loose bolts. Some people should not be allowed to own wrenches....


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## Teslan (Aug 20, 2011)

WaterShedRanch said:


> I've often had that thought myself. I had a JD 5410 that had 2100 hrs. on it of which 90% was loader use. Not hard loader use but stacking bales. Constantly forward reverse, over and over again using the shuttle shift, slipping the clutch for precise placement. I Just talked my old man into trading it in concern that sooner or later something was going to get weak. Some guys are harder on stuff than others. I take care of my equipment but I ask a lot of it when it's time to go. If you think you have a problem with your clutch or it's getting time for replacement. I would make it a winter project! Then next summer you can go to the field with a good piece of mind.


I actually think that the shuttle shifts are easier on clutches when doing loader work. It's nearly all electronic. I'm probably wrong, but since they are electronic is slipping the clutch really slipping the clutch like it used to be? Last year I started using our loader tractor for stacking hay and midway through 1st cutting something started happening to the clutch. The foot clutch. I couldn't slip it to do precise placement. The hand clutch and shifter worked fine, but I was kind of freaking out. Got a Massey repair man out and he said right away he knew what it was. In 2001 when my tractor was built they used some little part out of plastic that was always wearing out. Now they have a brass part. An 2 hours and $350 later I was good to go. The part was $100.  As for the older tractors like Fastline has. Yes I would be worried. And 200hrs on it 10 years ago. Why would he say it only has 200 hours on it? Did he not do anything with it the last 10 years? I would add 100 hours for each of those 10 years. So maybe it has 1200 hours on it.


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## mlappin (Jun 25, 2009)

Every brand has their drawbacks. Like our John Deere 400 and 401 for loader work myself. Hydraulic reverser and the first 6-8 inches of pedal only releases the pressure in the reverser and doesn't even engage the throwout bearing on the mechanical clutch, long as you can get the help not to push it all the way in that is.

Never split a Case with a cab before before but maybe the cab doesn't have to be pulled? A few jobs on our White articulated's you just remove the front and middle cab mount bolts, loosen the rears all the way up then lift the front of the cab up to tilt it back and place blockage under the middle mounts to hold it. On our MF 4880 articulated you block the cab, remove the cab mounts and place rollers in their place, slide heavy channel irons into place under the rollers then roll the cab back over the rear axle and pull the entire transmission to get at the clutch, that one also requires a special tranny stand be made as it has to stand on it's rear with the clutch end pointing straight up to get the multi disc clutch out, all this was covered in the Service Manual.

Easiest were the older Olivers, can yank the motor change a clutch and have it back in in less than three hours.


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## rjbaustian (Oct 16, 2012)

I said the same thing before I bought my round baler. I wanted to get the push bar so I didn't have to back up as much. Exact words from my 83 yr old gruff, stubborn grandpa was " god damn it, that's why they make those bastards the way they do!" Lol


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## Hand&Hand Farms (Feb 5, 2011)

The Case not to bad to spit, just got to have the right stands and good jack/block system under the back. The cab does not have to come off. The stand under the front end needs to roll with ease. Takes longer to get the hood off and back on than the rest of the job.


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## man of steel (Feb 1, 2010)

Deere's Perma-clutch

'75 JD 4230--Wet clutch, 30,000 bales, loader work, 16000+ hrs....original clutch yet


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## somedevildawg (Jun 20, 2011)

man of steel said:


> Deere's Perma-clutch'75 JD 4230--Wet clutch, 30,000 bales, loader work, 16000+ hrs....original clutch yet


Guess that's why they called it the perma clutch....


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