# Solenoid or starter problem?



## Runningbare (May 16, 2018)

I have a 1993 diesel MF 383 which is an 85 hp tractor and just recently have started to have intermittent problems with starting. Since this is an older model it doesn't have any electronics and therefore should be pretty straight forward. There are times that it starts right up and other times, turning the key does NOTHING. I got out the voltmeter and both batteries are fully charged. The last time that it would not start, I checked the hot side of the starter solenoid with the voltmeter and was showing 12.45 volts with the key off. Once my darling wife turned the key, however, the voltage on the hot side of the solenoid dropped to below 1 volt. At the same time, the battery shows no drop in voltage as if there is no draw on the battery. So, I figure it must be in the solenoid, or starter or maybe the ignition switch? I have tapped on the starter in the event it might be dragging but no help there. So I have come to you guys for some advice before I start digging into it deeper. Thanks!


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## PaulN (Mar 4, 2014)

The first thing I thought of was a poor connection on one of the heavy wires on the battery, solenoid or starter.


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## FCF (Apr 23, 2010)

Agree with PaulN, had the same problem as described above. Had a bolt on battery clamp on the end of the positive battery cable going to the solenoid. Talked to the local starter repair shop and had them make a new cable with crimped on ends. End of problem.


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## Runningbare (May 16, 2018)

I am with you on that Paul. I was thinking about doing that as it was getting dark on me. I will look at that first thing in the morning. Thanks for the reply.


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## Runningbare (May 16, 2018)

I will let you guys know what I find and then I will introduce my other intermittent problem


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## Wethay (Jul 17, 2015)

Put one side of the volt meter on the positive battery terminal and the other end on the hot side of the solenoid. The volt meter should read zero, when you turn the key to start the meter should go up to a couple tenths of a volt. I'm guessing that it is going to read closer to battery voltage when in the start position. Using a volt meter like this indicates voltage drop in the positive battery cable and connections. The ground cable can be checked the same way.


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## CowboyRam (Dec 13, 2015)

Check your ground wire from the battery to the frame. We had a bad ground on our MF1135.


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## Tx Jim (Jun 30, 2014)

DITTO what CowboyRam stated. Clean/tighten where ground cable attaches to frame.


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## Texasmark (Dec 20, 2011)

I just had to send off the injector pump for repair on a '65 Ford 3000, 3 cylinder, tight arrangement of starter and pump...gotta pull the starter to get the pump out........

Had been having problems with the starter catching the first time I hit the switch. New: Starter, battery, 00 AWG cables....yes 00, some 500 or so hours ago. With what I had I figured the solenoid contacts had eroded. On the things mentioned, I had a worn out top end on this tractor when I bought it and diesels being new to me, it took awhile for me to realize that the reason it didn't start as it should was that it had poor compression.....I have no diesel compression tester, nor knew how to test.

Sure enough, disassembled the solenoid while the starter was out and the contacts were pitted considerably. Burnished up nice and smooth and shiny, and reinstalled everything after I got the pump back. Just touch the switch and she fires right up.


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## broadriverhay (Jun 13, 2014)

Bad grounds cause a lot of problems and are easily overlooked. I kept having issues with a JD 2510. I got rid of all the unnecessary things like ignition switch and Park safety switch. All I have now is a push button to energize the solenoid. No more problems.


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## Runningbare (May 16, 2018)

I appreciate all the input from you guys and I must say I lucked out on this one. I pulled all the cables and there was some corrosion on terminals on both batteries so I cleaned them all up, tightened everything up and it started right up. 

So problem 2 - I am having an intermittent problem on the same MF 383. It may start several times in a row and then a few minutes later it will turn over but not start. On several occasions I have been able to get the tractor started by pumping diesel using the fuel lift pump. Sometimes I need only use the thumb lever 4 or 5 times and other times I may have to pump it 100 or more times. Its almost as though the diesel is draining back from main fuel pump. Anyone have experience with this? I see where the lift pump can be rebuilt to include check valves and diaphragm. Any other ideas of where to look before I tear into that?


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## ttazzman (Sep 29, 2019)

Runningbare said:


> I appreciate all the input from you guys and I must say I lucked out on this one. I pulled all the cables and there was some corrosion on terminals on both batteries so I cleaned them all up, tightened everything up and it started right up.
> 
> So problem 2 - I am having an intermittent problem on the same MF 383. It may start several times in a row and then a few minutes later it will turn over but not start. On several occasions I have been able to get the tractor started by pumping diesel using the fuel lift pump. Sometimes I need only use the thumb lever 4 or 5 times and other times I may have to pump it 100 or more times. Its almost as though the diesel is draining back from main fuel pump. Anyone have experience with this? I see where the lift pump can be rebuilt to include check valves and diaphragm. Any other ideas of where to look before I tear into that?


for $20-25 i would have already replaced the pump....wouldnt even consider trying a rebuild......out of curiosity have you checked your oil levels lately? if it is overfull you could be leaking diesel back into your oil thru the pump...


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## Runningbare (May 16, 2018)

I didn't expect it would be that inexpensive but you are right as I see them on the internet. Does that make sense that diesel could be draining back through that pump? I will check my oil level - hadn't thought of that.


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