# New Holland BR Round Baler Maintenance Issues/Questions



## PaMike (Dec 7, 2013)

I have had my BR740A for a few years now, and have noticed a few maintenace issues that need addressed...

-The pickup stuffer bushing is going out on one side and needs replaced. Any real trick to getting it out? Looks like just a matter of loosening everything and sliding it over and out...??

- My sledge roll frame had grooves worn in it from the belts. Any reason whey I cant weld the grooves up with the frame in the baler. Welding on the frame makes me nervous that the welding will pull the frame out of "true"

-The grease fitting on the sledge roll pivot wont take grease. I tried going into the grease fitting hole with a pick, but just cant get it freed up. This is the pivot on the nondrive side of the roll. Can I pull that pivot mount off the one side while leaving the sledge roll assembly in the baler? I assume I need to pull it out to clean the hole and get grease flowing again.

-Is there any need to check or lube the pickup cam/cam followers? The only thing I have done to the pickup is lube the auger chains and clean the junk out from behind the chain cover. Should I check out the cam followers to make sure they are in good shape?

I really cant afford downtime so I like to be a little proactive in repairs...

Thanks


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## mike10 (May 29, 2011)

I am not sure what stuffer bushing you are referring to. The sledge frame grooves can be welded and ground smooth. I prefer a wire welder for this. The frame may pull slightly but will not casue a problem because once the follower roll and follower roll scraper are in place the frame will straighten back up.

The way I free up the grease passage on the sledge frame pivot is to remove the fitting and trake a small screwdriver to dig out the old grease as much as possible. I then take a can of brake cleaner and spray the cleaner down into the hole. Be sure to wear eye protection. I then take a can of rust penetrant and fill the hole with that. I then install the fitting back into the hole and attach the grease gun. Most of the time the grease will push through. You do need to have a good end on the grease gun that will stay attached when pressure is applied to the grease fitting and not leak grease. If you still can not get the grease to go through, then remove the tension from the belts and leave the tailgate partially open so you can get inside. Lock the tailgate. Attach the grease gun and pump until there is pressure being applied to the grease fitting. If the grease will still not go through, then enter the baler and rotate the sledge frame back and forth while the grease gun is applying pressure to the fitting. This should free up the passage. If you can have someone else pumping the grease gun to apply pressure to the fitting while you are rotating the frame will help. If you do not have a good end on the grease gun then you will have a very difficult time clearing the clog. Do not disassemble the hub from the frame.

You do need to check the cam follower bearings in the pickup. You also need to check the roll bearings in the baler. If you have laced belts I would remove the belts so the rolls can be spun. If you have endless belts then you need to tie the belts away from the roll you are checking so the roll can be spun.


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## 68cuda (Dec 29, 2016)

I welded mine up on the baler. Had no problems


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## mike10 (May 29, 2011)

If the steel tube does not come out of the frame with the grease fitting, then instead of a small screwdriver to clean the hole you will need to use a small drill bit to get as much of the old grease out as possible. Everything else will work the same.


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## mike10 (May 29, 2011)

Here is a link to one of my posts detailing what I check when preparing a baler for use

http://www.haytalk.com/forums/index.php?app=core&module=attach&section=attach&attach_id=45906


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## PaMike (Dec 7, 2013)

Thanks Mike for the pointers. I tried the drill bit in the sledge frame grease zerk and that didnt fix it, but I will try rotating the frame like you suggested.

The stuffer bushings that need replaced is the ones in each end of the stuffer tube that has the fingers welded onto it. It mates up to the crank with counterweight on one end, and the center link in the middle. Any tips to get that out?

Thanks!


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## mike10 (May 29, 2011)

The recommended way to work on the stuffer is to remove the pickup from the baler. I doubt if you can just loosen the stuffer clamp bolts and remove half of the stuffer. At least you can not on 5ft balers. It is also dangerous work from under the baler. Up until this year I always worked from under the baler, but if you do not know what you are doing bad things can happen. I am just not as strong as I use to be but I also have only removed stuffers from 5ft balers. The difference in weight from a 1.8 to a 2.1 meter pickup may make it somewhat easier, but still can be dangerous. Any time you save by not removing the pickup will be used from the extra effort needed to work under the baler. If you have a 1.5 meter pickkup, it appears you can remove the single stuffer from under the baler acording to the service manual. Since you have the center arm you have a 1.8 pickup with two stuffers.

Why do you think a bushing is going out? There may be wear of the bushing and shaft, but it would have to be extreme to cause any issues. If it is side ways play there is not much you can do about it and should not cause any problem unless the dog bone link is bent or has loose bearings.


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## mike10 (May 29, 2011)

For your grease fitting I would spray some penetrating oil into the hole or nipple first before attaching the grease gun. The liquid will penetrate the blockage easier than the grease.


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## Gearclash (Nov 25, 2010)

I have always worked on stuffers from under the baler, but its not fun, at all. Once those bushings begin to develop radial play, they seem to wear pretty rapidly, but a catastrophic failure is not likely. There is a good chance the shafts are worn as well.

If your pickup cam bearings need to be replaced, I would recommend getting them from Shoup. If your bearings are original, they will be NHs old style. The NH updated bearing is much better, but pricey. Shoup has the equivalent for about $14 each less. I have a strong suspicion they come from the same supplier.


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## PaMike (Dec 7, 2013)

The bushing has a good bit of play. This is causing a clunking noise as it runs. Also, because of the play the shaft wobbles which causes the outer bearing to move around like the shaft is bent... Kind of surprised the bushing went out since the manual only calls for it to be greased once a year...


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## Gearclash (Nov 25, 2010)

Once a year?? That's a must grease daily point for me. 
That wobble in the stuffer shaft doesn't sound good. Worn stuffer fork bushings won't cause that.


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## PaMike (Dec 7, 2013)

Gearclash said:


> Once a year?? That's a must grease daily point for me.
> That wobble in the stuffer shaft doesn't sound good. Worn stuffer fork bushings won't cause that.


Sure it will. The end piece with the counterweight slides into that bushing. If there is play the counterweight can now wobble around.

The manual says that because there is a large grease cavity at the bushing you only need to grease it yearly... apparently that wasn't enough..


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## Gearclash (Nov 25, 2010)

I am assuming you are talking about the bushing that is item 23. This is a BR780A stuffer as I can't get the same view of a 740. If the crank that the moves the stuffers is sound, there will not be wobble in the crank/crank bearing even if #23 is toast. No more so than a loose connecting rod in an engine will make the crank wobble.


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## mike10 (May 29, 2011)

gearclash is right. The clunking is the center arm hitting tbe frame. one of the clamp bolts has come loose


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## PaMike (Dec 7, 2013)

Ok, I thought 10 was just a stub shaft. It goes all the way through, so you are right...that makes sense.

The clanking noise is from bushing 23 on the far right being out, allows #11 stuffer to rattle around when in motion

You guys are thinking a bolt is loose in the center which causes the entire stuffer to flex and thus move flex the bearing/housing on the far right?


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## rjmoses (Apr 4, 2010)

PaMike said:


> Ok, I thought 10 was just a stub shaft. It goes all the way through, so you are right...that makes sense.
> 
> The clanking noise is from bushing 23 on the far right being out, allows #11 stuffer to rattle around when in motion
> 
> You guys are thinking a bolt is loose in the center which causes the entire stuffer to flex and thus move flex the bearing/housing on the far right?


Coincidentally, this is the same issue I'm having with my 780A. Stuffer bushing gave out on one side. And I greased mine 4-6 shots every time I used it.

Ralph


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## PaMike (Dec 7, 2013)

I wonder if there is a center bolt loose that cause the entire stuffer "crank" to wobble which could then prematurely wear that bushing??

Mine was fine 400 bales ago. Now all of a sudden it has TONS of play...


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## Gearclash (Nov 25, 2010)

Along with loose clamps, I would look for twisted throw blocks in the crank. I haven't had it happen to me but I am sure it can happen. I don't think that crank problems and bushing wear are related, generally.


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## mike10 (May 29, 2011)

For the right side bearing to wobble, the stuffer shaft is out of alignment. This is caused by one of the clamp bolts on the arms to get loose and then the arm to be loose on the shaft. It could be any one of the three arms.I have never seen a bushing fail. The shaft and bushing may wear but that would not cause your right bearing to wobble. The bushing can wear enough for the tines to hit the back of the pickup frame but this is not your most serious problem. The three arms generally do not bend unless a shaft breaks and I have seen that. You definetly need to check into the stuffer before using the baler. Slide under the baler and push up in the middle of the stuffer. There should be no movement except rotational and whatever wear there is in the bushings.


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## mike10 (May 29, 2011)

#11 is the left side. For that much play so suddenly there is more wrong than a worn bushing. Depending on which arm is loose, you may not get any movement up and down in the center. Grab the right arm and weight and try and rotate the complete stuffer shaft. There should be no rotational movement. I think you have a loose arm where you think you have worn bushings.


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