# John Deere 567 feeding problems.



## Colby (Mar 5, 2012)

Started having problems with our 567 starting a bale. Seems like trying to start a bale the crop wants to hang up and roll back there for clogging the pick up up. So have to go way to slow to start a bale but once the bale is started I could go on. Crop conditions and windrows are good and never had the problem before. I did have a uper drive roll bearing fail about 75 bales into this problem occurring. (3hr run time) I replaced it today but I don't see that being the problem.
Thoughts? 
Thanks.


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## balerguy1975 (May 6, 2012)

Does it have a stuffer on it? Greenfeed or hay?


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## Tx Jim (Jun 30, 2014)

Colby

I think brg failure isn't bale starting problem. Are most pickup teeth in place & what condition are belts IE how many bales have belts baled? How many steps are visible on your belt cleats? Have you checked baler height per operators manual? On older balers with starter roll that had rectangular bars JD service rep's advocated welding on leading edge of rectangular bars to aid poor bale starting. I field tested the starter roll with rd spiral rods for JD factory rep's. I asked JD factory representative about welding on round rod similar to rectangular bar but they didn't recommend it at that time. After the experiment was completed and round rd starter roller was standard equip. in new model baler I took it on myself to weld on new type starter roll. I've even added 14'' round rods on each end in between factory rods. My baler rarely gives core starting problems(usually operator ERROR) plus lets very little Coastal hay run up outside belts when hay gets a little too dry. My baler has over 22,000 bales on it & I put a new set of belts on it at the beginning of last season(2015).


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## Vol (Jul 5, 2009)

Colby, I do not know if you went over this list but there are several things mentioned. The first thing that came to my mind is if the belts are beginning to get worn.

Regards, Mike

http://manuals.deere.com/omview/OME130316_19/AG_OUO6059_51_19_05MAY00_1.htm

Note: I see Jim mentioned the belts as I was typing while he was posting.


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## Tx Jim (Jun 30, 2014)

Colby

Another thing I thought about is the condition of pickup slip clutch??? SC can get worn and slip too easily. How many bales has your baler baled?


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## Colby (Mar 5, 2012)

Baler monitor shows 11,500. Belts are good in my eyes. Pickup teeth are not so good but have never caused a problem before. 
How much does the compression bar with the metal rod feeder fingers help? This is the area the problem seems to occur. I noticed almost all of them are missing.

This is where I feel like the roller baffle on the 8 & 9 series is superior because I don't think I would have this problem if the 567 had one. I don't know that's just my thinking.


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## Tx Jim (Jun 30, 2014)

Compression rods help hold hay down against PU teeth but I baled with out them before wit no bale starting problems. What's the moisture content of hay that you're attempting to bale?


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## Colby (Mar 5, 2012)

Over dried and very thick. Raking two 9' windrows and making a 5x5.5 bale every 100 yards.


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## Tx Jim (Jun 30, 2014)

How many rd bales per acre? I'll suggest to add the extra rods on the starting roller. I know from experience it helped my 4 ft baler start drier hay easier.


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## JMT (Aug 10, 2013)

I had a 535 that started having trouble starting some bales. Tried working on starter roller but did not make much better. Thought belts looked good at the time and did not know what else to do so I just kept baling (was not a big problem).

After corn harvest decided to try to bale some corn stalks. I made a real mess of it. Windrows ended up inconsistent, dirty, and had root balls in them. End result was that I made a few crappy corn stalk bales that the cows would.not touch and ruined several belts in the process.

Over winter I went ahead and put a whole new set of belts on. Next season it was like a new baler. No more starting problems, and performed better starts even when every thing was running smooth.

Long story short, it could be your belts, even if they still look pretty good.


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## Vol (Jul 5, 2009)

JMT said:


> Long story short, it could be your belts, even if they still look pretty good.


Agree.

Regards, Mike


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## Colby (Mar 5, 2012)

Very well could be the belts but the belts on the 468 are considerably thinner than the 567 and I've yet to have problems. Wouldn't hurt to have both balers put new belts on. Will be a good winter time project.


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## rajela (Feb 15, 2014)

I am thinking it is just because of the over dry hay..have you tried early in the morning when there is a little dew.


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## Colby (Mar 5, 2012)

rajela said:


> I am thinking it is just because of the over dry hay..have you tried early in the morning when there is a little dew.


That's what I wanted to do but it's dry enough here we aren't getting any dew anymore. They hay laid a whole day longer than it should have due to the guy running the cutter for me going in the opposite direction I told him to for the week. Hopefully it was a simple problem like over dried hay.

Thanks guys for the help.


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## Tx Jim (Jun 30, 2014)

Installing new belts could make your life simpler.

I open & lock tailgate run belt splice to open area between baler halves,raise tension rollers,pull lacing pin attach new belt to old belt with a piece of stiff wire at correct end,lower tension rollers engage pto and let old belt pull new belt in place then raise tension rollers & insert correct pin furnished with new belts. Then continue to next belt lacing that appears 1st. Doesn't take long with an assistant to change all the belts. This is where I got my belts shipped free to my gate. http://www.balerbeltsandaccessories.com/

Or you could weld those rods I mentioned to starter roll.


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## carcajou (Jan 28, 2011)

Is the hay catching on the draw bar, or lower 3pth sway blocks and getting flipped up before it goes in the pickup?


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## Colby (Mar 5, 2012)

carcajou said:


> Is the hay catching on the draw bar, or lower 3pth sway blocks and getting flipped up before it goes in the pickup?


No, I would watch it and it would hit the pick up and kinda go up and then it would want to spit the hay back out. Once monitor read 22.5" then the problem was over.


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## carcajou (Jan 28, 2011)

Try starting your bale at a lower RPM, say 850 if it is a 1000 pto, then throttle up. Also i find the the tines on the windguard are needed on both sides of the pickup ( 2 each) but i remove the middle one. Setting your windguard up slightly will improve the feeding in dry hay too.

edit A trick i learned years ago may help too. Pull into the windrow with the pickup off and make a little pile, then turn the pto on and it will swallow the slug and start the bale core. Pain to do everytime but it works.


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## Vol (Jul 5, 2009)

carcajou said:


> edit A trick i learned years ago may help too. Pull into the windrow with the pickup off and make a little pile, then turn the pto on and it will swallow the slug and start the bale core. Pain to do everytime but it works.


Excellent.

Regards,Mike


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## swmnhay (Jun 13, 2008)

Are you feeding the heads of the hay into the baler first?
Is the hay raked under the windrow?

Check the cam track for the pickup teeth perhaps it's out of adjustment or bearings are out.

I've used the shut off the PTO and drive into the windrow trick before when I had bad belts also.


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## Lewis Ranch (Jul 15, 2013)

On the 7 series balers we used to run the compression rods were make or break in dry hay for me. I ended up putting a full set all the way across my 467. With the 8 series having the roller up front I haven't had any problems since


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## rajela (Feb 15, 2014)

Colby we are still getting a little dew it aint much but a little.


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## Colby (Mar 5, 2012)

Bales 15 acres of about 3 tpa hay today with the baler and it did fine.


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## Colby (Mar 5, 2012)

TX Jim, 
I'm assuming this is the roller you would weld more rods to?


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## Tx Jim (Jun 30, 2014)

Colby

Yes that's the roller several yrs back I welded rods on each side in between each spiral rod. I think it helped my baler start core in drier hay.


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## clowers (Feb 11, 2011)

Tx Jim said:


> Colby
> 
> Yes that's the roller several yrs back I welded rods on each side in between each spiral rod. I think it helped my baler start core in drier hay.


Colby,

If you do weld new rods on could you take a picture. I am interested what Jim said. Jim you said it helped by not pilling hay up the front of the baler by the end belts. My 9 series and 8 series have both pulled hay up the front, more when the moisture content is higher as apposed to a dryer hay. Drives me nuts when it pills hay to the top.

Scott


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## Tx Jim (Jun 30, 2014)

My baler very rarely builds hay up frt belts. I can't remember how long it's been since I cleaned hay out of frt belts.. I thought I had already posted photos of my baler starting roller with added rods. I know I don't have any of these photos saved on my computer as I'm not a "picture saving person". I'll try to take some photos of roller and post them but it's self explanatory. I welded 14'' rods of same diameter on each end 1/2 way between existing rods. I didn't chose to spiral the rods but welded them in a straight line with starter roller. Only problem I've had is every once in a while(1 out of 500+ rd bales) net will get caught on one end of starter roller. I have no idea if the added rods are to blame for this wrapping or if it's coincidental.


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## clowers (Feb 11, 2011)

Thanks Jim


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