# High tensile vs Barb wire



## deadmoose

It seems many of you are big fans of high tensile vs barb wire. What are pros and cons of high tensile?

I need to fence about 3/4 mile of permanent perimeter fencing this spring. I am open to changing away from barb wire. My initial plan is 5 strands of barb wire on 6 foot t posts 12 feet on center.

What goes into high tensile? 6.5 foot pounded posts 30 ft on center? What size wire?

Pros to barb wire:

I have done enough to kinda know what I am doing for here. I can easily price it and complete myself with equipment I have. No worry about electric.

Ready to hear all the cons and pros of high tensile.

Also, are hot wires required on high tensile?

Thanks.


----------



## mlappin

Definitely want a hot wire on hi tensile. The place we used to store small bales their kid would raise a couple of 4H steers every year, they had a 7 or 9 strand hi tensile fence around the pasture, more than once I've seen those steers walk right thru it until they finally installed a fence charger.


----------



## endrow

There are three back-to-back Pastures back north. We rent one of them for many years I want a bull with heifers. And so do the other two guys. Back in the day when there was two strands of barbed wire we always had somebody's Bull with somebody else's heifers. Most a Time barb wire for some reason just not a good conductor. Three days of rain at the bull figures it out. Anything that wants through two strands of barbed wire will get through. Five strands high-tensile 2 hot 16 foot Center Post, that's what everybody has around here fences 15 to 20 years old never took a day of maintenance. The problem is it cost a lot to build maybe you won't spend that much that you have to use something else


----------



## CowboyRam

Dad always said if they can get the head thru the rest of the body follows.


----------



## Lostin55

Either way, build it horse high, pig tight, and bull strong.
My vote is barbed wire.


----------



## deadmoose

Lostin55 said:


> Either way, build it horse high, pig tight, and bull strong.
> My vote is barbed wire.


Why barbed vs high tensile?


----------



## glasswrongsize

Moose, I hope I don't derail your thread because I'm very interested in it; but what about high tensile barbed wire? Best of both worlds?

Mark


----------



## stack em up

It should certainly be no secret that I'm a big fan of hi-tensile. To me, barbed wire has its place, just not on my farm. HT is much easier to work with, I don't like torn pants and hands. If you have plans of electrifying it, barbed really has no advantages that I see. If electricity isn't an option, then maybe yes, I'd go barbed, but probably just buy a battery powered energizer and stick with HT.

I plant 4" posts 30' apart, use 6" for corner posts and 5" for the H braces. I use Kiwi strainers with no springs on lines and Kiwi strainers when building H braces as opposed to twitch sticks. A little more expensive but easier to tighten down the road if the brace starts to pull.

I run 5 strands and make 2 hot. Top strand is 48", bottom strand is 8" off the ground and the rest are evenly spaced, can't remember the distance right off hand. I've got one small pasture that isn't hot yet and the 5 strands keeps heifers in, but you gotta keep an eye on them.


----------



## deadmoose

glasswrongsize said:


> Moose, I hope I don't derail your thread because I'm very interested in it; but what about high tensile barbed wire? Best of both worlds?
> 
> Mark


No worries of derailment.

I am open to whatever is gonna make me a few bucks down the road.

High tensile has the disadvantage of having to hire it out.

Barb wire is priced out.


----------



## stack em up

Why would hi tensile be hired out? It goes up the same, if not a little faster than barbed. You're very smart, should have absolutely no issues putting it up.


----------



## Lewis Ranch

My neighbor has a barbed wire fence 6 strand and every other wire is hot, never seen a cow out on his place. Next one I build will be like it.


----------



## mlappin

deadmoose said:


> No worries of derailment.
> 
> I am open to whatever is gonna make me a few bucks down the road.
> 
> High tensile has the disadvantage of having to hire it out.
> 
> Barb wire is priced out.


Not hard at all to install hi tensile, definitely easier on the hand, pants and critters.

If the unroller for the hi tensile thats no big deal, I built one years ago out of an old busted front spindle on a JD400.


----------



## Lostin55

deadmoose said:


> Why barbed vs high tensile?


As with most things that I like, it is what I know the most. I have seen stock go through both types of fence, so I guess it comes down to $/ft for me.


----------



## BWfarms

glasswrongsize said:


> Moose, I hope I don't derail your thread because I'm very interested in it; but what about high tensile barbed wire? Best of both worlds?
> 
> Mark


Is junk flat out, period. 15 gauge or whatever it is will stretch beyond belief when a tree or deer busts through it. Cheap way to cop out of having a stronger fence. 12.5 gauge is the way to go with barb.



Lewis Ranch said:


> My neighbor has a barbed wire fence 6 strand and every other wire is hot, never seen a cow out on his place. Next one I build will be like it.


It is a very unwise idea to electrify barb wire. If any animal gets tangled in it and the combination of the shock and being cut will really do harm. Plus a 6 strand? That's overkill, must be 15 gauge wire?

I've built and use every type of fence.

Barbed is good for rough terrain and going through a lot of trees. I do a lot of of 4 and 5 strand 12 gauge with T posts spaced 15-20'.

I do high tensile like stack except I run 4 strands with tension springs, corners are 8 foot long with 3.5' deep, but minimal H braces and 4-5" (6.5') posts spaced 20-40'. I will put H's at bottom of sharp dips and curves. Top and bottom 2 are hot, the ground rods depends on distance but I add at a minimum every 1000'. 3500-7000 volts sing through my wires. On occasion I do run all 4 wires hot. Quick tip, I weave my brace wire (just using HT) and put the kiwi strainer on the side away from the hot wire.

The best fence is a woven wire fence but that is spendy. Barb wire tends to be a little cheaper but may require more repairs but is paid for. High tensile electric is cheapest upfront costs by half and goes up much faster but you have to rely on electricity for security and in long run will accumulate costs. It all depends on the job at hand and I keep tame animals. It's the trees and deer that give me trouble. I will not run an electric fence through the woods for long runs.


----------



## Lewis Ranch

BWfarms said:


> Is junk flat out, period. 15 gauge or whatever it is will stretch beyond belief when a tree or deer busts through it. Cheap way to cop out of having a stronger fence. 12.5 gauge is the way to go with barb.
> 
> It is a very unwise idea to electrify barb wire. If any animal gets tangled in it and the combination of the shock and being cut will really do harm. Plus a 6 strand? That's overkill, must be 15 gauge wire?
> 
> I've built and use every type of fence.
> 
> Barbed is good for rough terrain and going through a lot of trees. I do a lot of of 4 and 5 strand 12 gauge with T posts spaced 15-20'.
> 
> I do high tensile like stack except I run 4 strands with tension springs, corners are 8 foot long with 3.5' deep, but minimal H braces and 4-5" (6.5') posts spaced 20-40'. I will put H's at bottom of sharp dips and curves. Top and bottom 2 are hot, the ground rods depends on distance but I add at a minimum every 1000'. 3500-7000 volts sing through my wires. On occasion I do run all 4 wires hot. Quick tip, I weave my brace wire (just using HT) and put the kiwi strainer on the side away from the hot wire.
> 
> The best fence is a woven wire fence but that is spendy. Barb wire tends to be a little cheaper but may require more repairs but is paid for. High tensile electric is cheapest upfront costs by half and goes up much faster but you have to rely on electricity for security and in long run will accumulate costs. It all depends on the job at hand and I keep tame animals. It's the trees and deer that give me trouble. I will not run an electric fence through the woods for long runs.


Where we are nearly everything is 5 and 6 strand barb wire.


----------



## deadmoose

stack em up said:


> Why would hi tensile be hired out? It goes up the same, if not a little faster than barbed. You're very smart, should have absolutely no issues putting it up.


Pounding/driving posts. I would think if I aufered all holes it would take forever and show poor results.

Although if I time it right, i kay be able to drive posts in spring with my loader bucket.


----------



## atgreene

I grew up on electric barb wire. I've since taught myself high tensile, especially the knots. If you take the time to learn the knots so you're not messing with crimps etc it's fast and easy. I've stretched miles of it. Hook it to a 7k volt charger and its amazing, especially with our ice and snow load pulling it down.

I use telephone poles for corner posts. In our rocky bone pile of land, they all get dug in with the excavator. T posts every 8 paces angered in with a hydraulic auger, 5" hole.

Learn to do the knots, YouTube is your friend.


----------



## deadmoose

I went to town and found a few prices. Pallet price on 6' t post @ $3.60. Red brand barb wire @ $60/1320'. HT 12 ga wire @ $99.99/4k ft.

Tsc not the place to buy posts. Local hardware store 6" $15.69, 5" $10.09 (both 8'). 3.5" *7' $4.69. 5"*7' $8.99.

I could probably push 3.5" in with loader in the spring. If I put that on 24' centers vs barb on 12' center I am about $1000 cheaper for high tensile (with 3.5" line posts, 6" corner, 5" 2 deep off corner). Not counting hardware.

Hmmmm. Will posts that small work? Price is nice. Will stop by fleet farm soon to price posts there.


----------



## carcajou

Yes that will work well. In fact the only thing i would add would be springs on the top two wires, not so much for the animals inside but they really help if a tree falls on the line or a moose goes through. Then put in several good ground rods and buy the best fencer you can afford.


----------



## deadmoose

How much do you "cheapen" the fence for interior fencing? Able to go further on post spacing? 3 wires?


----------



## deadmoose

stack em up said:


> It should certainly be no secret that I'm a big fan of hi-tensile. To me, barbed wire has its place, just not on my farm. HT is much easier to work with, I don't like torn pants and hands. If you have plans of electrifying it, barbed really has no advantages that I see. If electricity isn't an option, then maybe yes, I'd go barbed, but probably just buy a battery powered energizer and stick with HT.
> I plant 4" posts 30' apart, use 6" for corner posts and 5" for the H braces. I use Kiwi strainers with no springs on lines and Kiwi strainers when building H braces as opposed to twitch sticks. A little more expensive but easier to tighten down the road if the brace starts to pull.
> I run 5 strands and make 2 hot. Top strand is 48", bottom strand is 8" off the ground and the rest are evenly spaced, can't remember the distance right off hand. I've got one small pasture that isn't hot yet and the 5 strands keeps heifers in, but you gotta keep an eye on them.


Stack,

Do you use this for your sheep as well?


----------



## stack em up

deadmoose said:


> Stack,
> Do you use this for your sheep as well?


Yes I do. If the pasture will have ewes with very young lambs, I will change the wire spacing but still do the same procedures for building.


----------



## mlappin

atgreene said:


> I grew up on electric barb wire. I've since taught myself high tensile, especially the knots. If you take the time to learn the knots so you're not messing with crimps etc it's fast and easy. I've stretched miles of it. Hook it to a 7k volt charger and its amazing, especially with our ice and snow load pulling it down.
> 
> I use telephone poles for corner posts. In our rocky bone pile of land, they all get dug in with the excavator. T posts every 8 paces angered in with a hydraulic auger, 5" hole.
> 
> Learn to do the knots, YouTube is your friend.


No offense, but looks like a pain in the *ss compared to sliding three crimp ferrules on and hitting it with the crimper. Besides, once it's up rarely do you need to splice it unless something stupid like a county truck drives thru it.

I use rail road ties for corner posts on a ten foot spacing and 3" heavy pipe for braces. Sink the railroad ties in as deep as I can get em so just enough left for the fence, have had a few heave out id only 36-40" deep. My cross fencing is just regular old fence wire, 14 gauge? 17? Don't recall off hand. The lane wires are high tensile again with railroad ties in 5' deep and no bracing.


----------



## deadmoose

stack em up said:


> Yes I do. If the pasture will have ewes with very young lambs, I will change the wire spacing but still do the same procedures for building.


What spacing for them? Would a 5 strand high tensile work for sheep in the future? I have found my crystal ball rarely works right. Never know what the future may bring. Best to be prepared if possible.


----------



## carcajou

Our perimeter fences are all 6 wire high tensile with the 5th wire up a ground wire. Works well for cattle and sheep. The bottom wire is 4 to 5 inches off the ground in order to keep the Coyotes out. Nothing goes through our fences, deer, elk and moose go over.


----------



## deadmoose

carcajou said:


> Our perimeter fences are all 6 wire high tensile with the 5th wire up a ground wire. Works well for cattle and sheep. The bottom wire is 4 to 5 inches off the ground in order to keep the Coyotes out. Nothing goes through our fences, deer, elk and moose go over.


Pardon the dumb question:

By ground wire do you mean hot wire?


----------



## carcajou

Not a dumb question at all. Just the opposite though. On our fences the 5th wire up is hooked to ground rods driven in areas that normally are wet. In this way if the pastures get dry (poor grounding conditions) and a yearling tries to stick their head through the fence they still get tuned in.


----------



## mlappin

carcajou said:


> Not a dumb question at all. Just the opposite though. On our fences the 5th wire up is hooked to ground rods driven in areas that normally are wet. In this way if the pastures get dry (poor grounding conditions) and a yearling tries to stick their head through the fence they still get tuned in.


Same here, dry ground or frozen ground makes for a piss poor ground. I have the three ground posts 10ft apart by the charger, then a ground wire as well around the perimeter of the pasture with a few more ground rods, last rod is as far from the fence charger as possible.


----------



## r82230

deadmoose said:


> How much do you "cheapen" the fence for interior fencing? Able to go further on post spacing? 3 wires?


I run 3 wires (all hot) around 10 acres that my cows are in year around. The rest of my 40 acres of pasture has either 3 or 2 wires (both hot). My posts are a combination of steel t-post and wood 30-50 foot apart (depending on levelness and curves). I use single telephone poles (of wood posts) on bends (10-20 degrees) and gullies, almost 100% steel t-post between. I also use springs for the falling trees, but more likely deer running into (during the winter mostly). 12.5 gauge wire, Gallagher fencer, with 5 ground stakes.

2 wires one at 15-18 inches, one at 40 inches. 3 wire one at 12-15 inches, then 30 and 45 inches. Seem to have less deer damage keeping wires lower than 45 inches (lazy deer in my area perhaps).

Larry


----------



## BWfarms

carcajou said:


> Our perimeter fences are all 6 wire high tensile with the 5th wire up a ground wire. Works well for cattle and sheep. The bottom wire is 4 to 5 inches off the ground in order to keep the Coyotes out. Nothing goes through our fences, deer, elk and moose go over.


I was deer hunting. Saw a yote go through a draw. I anticipated to shoot it once it crossed under the fence which was missing a bottom wire. I'll be damned, thing jumped the entire fence instead of just walking though. Fences don't keep yotes out, they just make you think they stay out.


----------



## IH 1586

deadmoose said:


> No worries of derailment.
> 
> I am open to whatever is gonna make me a few bucks down the road.
> 
> High tensile has the disadvantage of having to hire it out.
> 
> Barb wire is priced out.





deadmoose said:


> Pounding/driving posts. I would think if I aufered all holes it would take forever and show poor results.
> 
> Although if I time it right, i kay be able to drive posts in spring with my loader bucket.


Someday I to would like to have all my perimeter fence hi tensile and will be hiring it out for same reason. Somebody that does it all the time should be able to build it quicker and make it look nice than I could and I don't have equipment. I have 4 & 3 wire barb fence here. All posts are hand pounded in and if I put in a really good corner post or one to hang gate on it's dug by hand. I guess I like to work harder.


----------



## azmike

Outside perimeter: 6'- 12 gauge 5 strand-20' with 2 stays (our bull is better than the neighbors)

Interior pastures: 5'- 4 strand gaucho- 20' with 2 stays- When in doubt add more stays!

ANY calf that fights fence gets sold or eaten!!


----------



## stack em up

azmike, are the stays really worth the cost? I've built a lot of fence and have never used one, but got hired by our local NRCS to do some building this spring, and included in the quote they wanted stays between each line post. It's for a guy who has no idea if he needs them or not. I told him I've strung literally miles of fence and never put one in.


----------



## azmike

stack em up said:


> azmike, are the stays really worth the cost? I've built a lot of fence and have never used one, but got hired by our local NRCS to do some building this spring, and included in the quote they wanted stays between each line post. It's for a guy who has no idea if he needs them or not. I told him I've strung literally miles of fence and never put one in.


Yes, stays make the fence. If a cows head gets the wires spread it goes to get through the fence. I would/could extend post distance before I'd forgo stays. I've seen where NRCS wanted a strand of barbless on the bottom for game...no way does that make a decent cattle fence. The bottom is the wire that they always push to eat whats on the other side!


----------



## r82230

azmike said:


> The bottom is the wire that they always push to eat whats on the other side!


Same with my cows, except mine will get on their knees to reach farther. I would question their religion but they seem to get on their knees in every direction. 

Larry


----------



## IHCman

I hate stays. I feel if you need stays in your barb wire fence your wires should be tighter and maybe posts closer together. I know some people like them. To each their own, but I'll never use them.


----------



## azmike

Why "hate" stays?? They just tie 4 or 5 wires together as one unit adding strength and over all integrity to the fence. If you were to hire out fence building around here and skipped the stays you wouldn't get paid till you finished the job....put in the stays!

Stays take 20-30 seconds to install, don't cost much. I can do 1/4 mile in a couple hours AND with a beer in one hand!

** "Good fence makes for good neighbors" D. Trump


----------



## IHCman

Here stays are a pain as the fence ages. Harder to retighten wires as the barbs sometimes don't pull through all the stays. Stays can get bent and hold the wires down. Here snow can level a fence in places where it drifts over. Way easier to rebuild it without stays on the wires. Also if you ever want to remove the fence, stays can be a pain.

its all about preference. Some guys love stays and some don't.


----------



## carcajou

I only ever built one fence with stays and it was not to my liking either.


----------



## deadmoose

I got pricing from fence installer today. Sounds like @ this time, High Tensile will not pencil out.

Sounds like cost to pound posts would be fairly close to a brand new 3 point pounder give or take. I will be on the lookout for alternative pounders. But for that price I believe I am out.


----------



## deadmoose

He said a 2 man crew do between 80-120 (depending on conditions) posts per day. Sounds slow and paying by the hour...


----------



## stack em up

Moose, do you have a skid loader with auxiliary hydraulics? I'd rent you my Shaver HD8 fairly reasonable. Distance is the issue.


----------



## deadmoose

Not owned. But yes, boils down to distance.


----------



## carcajou

Rent a Wheatheart high and heavy hitter, we pound 300 or more a day with one 2 guys


----------



## stack em up

carcajou said:


> Rent a Wheatheart high and heavy hitter, we pound 300 or more a day with one 2 guys


I'd love to have a Wheatheart. It all takes money though!!!!


----------



## deadmoose

carcajou said:


> Rent a Wheatheart high and heavy hitter, we pound 300 or more a day with one 2 guys


Do you deliver?


----------



## carcajou

Gotta be a few available close to you. Around here most everyone that sells posts has a couple or more for rent, usually $125/day. I can't afford to own one for that either.


----------



## deadmoose

I am not aware of any around here for rent. I may have found one to rent/borrow though locally.


----------



## deadmoose

Question on gates: will be a few gates I do not want to buy now. If I am running hot already there, does it sound reasonable to make a few gates out of wire and spring amd keep em hot? Any reason that wouldn't work?


----------



## stack em up

deadmoose said:


> Question on gates: will be a few gates I do not want to buy now. If I am running hot already there, does it sound reasonable to make a few gates out of wire and spring amd keep em hot? Any reason that wouldn't work?


Absolutely! Thats when you buy these,

http://www.powerflexfence.com/mobile/Category.aspx?id=162


----------



## BWfarms

If you are not going to go through it frequently there's no reason why not. However a 16' 7 bar gate for $125 is worth the extra bit to me. Either style, bury a hot line below to keep the wire singing.


----------



## deadmoose

BWfarms said:


> If you are not going to go through it frequently there's no reason why not. However a 16' 7 bar gate for $125 is worth the extra bit to me. Either style, bury a hot line below to keep the wire singing.


A modern combine needs 3 of them to go through though. Put that through a lane you are now @ $750. For cheap ones. I priced the ones I am going to get for other spots. Hopefully they go on sale close to $200 each.


----------



## BWfarms

In my de-fence (pun) I didn't see you needed access for a combine. It's not like a combine is going through daily so there's no issue of you are just stretching a hot across. The suggestion of a true gate installed was only for the most used areas. Say for example if I'm using it to walk through daily or put feed out, throwing a metal gate open saves time fast. Plus bury the hot wire under the gate.

Still 2-20' gates at $140 a piece, need it a tad wider then chain a 6-8' in the middle for $70. Those are the current prices I get. $280-350 ain't terrible but since it won't be opened but a couple times a year, $20 worth of wire and handles is what I would do permanently for 40-50'.


----------



## deadmoose

The gates I plan to use most will be purchased on day 1. No more cheap Tarter.


----------



## IH 1586

deadmoose said:


> Question on gates: will be a few gates I do not want to buy now. If I am running hot already there, does it sound reasonable to make a few gates out of wire and spring amd keep em hot? Any reason that wouldn't work?


http://www.kencove.com/fence/Spring+Gate+Long_detail_GSL.php

I have been putting these in where there will be gates some day. They have multiple lengths and I see they also have ones for t posts. I don't even bother with the short ones. No issues with them sagging at narrower openings.


----------



## Tim/South

I priced 6 foot T post locally. CO-OP is $3.75 each if you buy 100 or more.

TS has a discount sale right now, 5% plus 10% (off season and coupon) = @ $3.21 plus tax.

Same discount on barb wire.

Our ground is a little damp from recent rains. A lot of people fence here during the winter. We had two skid steers pushing in post at a friends place yesterday. It was nice seeing so much getting done in a fun, friendly atmosphere. I work so much alone these days that I think I was getting cabin fever to help someone else.

I have only used Hi Tensile once as a cross fence. I used the springs and ratchets. It worked well enough. I did not like having to depend on a charger. I think we get more lightening and thunderstorms here compared to other parts of the country. I have tried every lightening resistor I could find and still have them get hit.


----------



## Vol

Tim/South said:


> I have only used Hi Tensile once as a cross fence. I used the springs and ratchets. It worked well enough. I did not like having to depend on a charger. I think we get more lightening and thunderstorms here compared to other parts of the country. I have tried every lightening resistor I could find and still have them get hit.


Agree.

Regards, Mike


----------



## endrow

Tim/South said:


> I priced 6 foot T post locally. CO-OP is $3.75 each if you buy 100 or more.
> 
> TS has a discount sale right now, 5% plus 10% (off season and coupon) = @ $3.21 plus tax.
> 
> Same discount on barb wire.
> 
> Our ground is a little damp from recent rains. A lot of people fence here during the winter. We had two skid steers pushing in post at a friends place yesterday. It was nice seeing so much getting done in a fun, friendly atmosphere. I work so much alone these days that I think I was getting cabin fever to help someone else.
> 
> I have only used Hi Tensile once as a cross fence. I used the springs and ratchets. It worked well enough. I did not like having to depend on a charger. I think we get more lightening and thunderstorms here compared to other parts of the country. I have tried every lightening resistor I could find and still have them get hit.


During grazing months we run 8 low impedance 6 joule chargers keep 4 on hand for back ups. Costs about $50 to rebuild one when stuck. we have a fair amount struck in a years time . .... more and more the dairy says the buyers of milk like Walmart or Giant or Foodline wants agreement between farmer and processor similar to how the organic farmers will have to raise , handle , treat , and care for your animals . We are in a gold standard program now they tell you how they expect you to care for animals. Most is common sense some is life changing. Barb wire for us is a thing of the past


----------



## endrow

deadmoose said:


> A modern combine needs 3 of them to go through though. Put that through a lane you are now @ $750. For cheap ones. I priced the ones I am going to get for other spots. Hopefully they go on sale close to $200 each.


The first hi tensile 's we built we used 16' gates and that JD drill has just 2"s on each side to go threw . Now where big stuff might travel we use (2) 12'ers. And dig an insulated wire under


----------



## deadmoose

endrow said:


> The first hi tensile 's we built we used 16' gates and that JD drill has just 2"s on each side to go threw . Now where big stuff might travel we use (2) 12'ers. And dig an insulated wire under


I think I need close to 40 ft for the custom guy I would like to hire.


----------



## Bgriffin856

I like barbed wire have some that's single electric strand on locust posts some two strands on electric poles that are spaced 18-20 feet or so, one side is on trees and posts long staples on the posts put so the wire can slide through them, I remember quite well as a kid helping built this fence probably one of my earliest memory. Most of the rest is three and four strands. Use mostly black locust post have used sawed electric poles which imo are some of the nicest to work with and last a long time. Larch pine and "treated" posts from tsc last five years if you're lucky. Steel T-post are nice but not as sturdy imo.

Built a hi tensile fence, four strand, along the citiot neighbors 8 acre property. It's not too bad to put up definitely put electric to it, ours we didn't mainly a deternt to keep cows/heifers off his 8 precious acres when they get out. But when we graze our 50 acres behind it we have to run a temporary electric wire the length of it cause there is always that one cow that likes to walk through it to graze the neighbors lawn....then teachs two or three others. Things I'd do different is space posts closer, add electric.


----------



## IH 1586

Bgriffin856 said:


> I like barbed wire have some that's single electric strand on locust posts some two strands on electric poles that are spaced 18-20 feet or so, one side is on trees and posts long staples on the posts put so the wire can slide through them, I remember quite well as a kid helping built this fence probably one of my earliest memory. Most of the rest is three and four strands. Use mostly black locust post have used sawed electric poles which imo are some of the nicest to work with and last a long time. Larch pine and "treated" posts from tsc last five years if you're lucky. Steel T-post are nice but not as sturdy imo.
> 
> Built a hi tensile fence, four strand, along the citiot neighbors 8 acre property. It's not too bad to put up definitely put electric to it, ours we didn't mainly a deternt to keep cows/heifers off his 8 precious acres when they get out. But when we graze our 50 acres behind it we have to run a temporary electric wire the length of it cause there is always that one cow that likes to walk through it to graze the neighbors lawn....then teachs two or three others. Things I'd do different is space posts closer, add electric.


It's funny you mentioned long staples so the wire can slide on the fence. I am sure there are a lot of people that do it that way. I have yet to get myself to do it. 3 generations of building and fixing fence here on the farm and you will not find one staple that is not buried into the post.



glasswrongsize said:


> Moose, I hope I don't derail your thread because I'm very interested in it; but what about high tensile barbed wire? Best of both worlds?
> 
> Mark


Dad had switched to using high tensile barb before he passed. Not sure why and that's all I buy now. It is a pain to use once in a while but not horrible. Some of the fence that is coming down has had some up for almost 20 years and I'm rolling it up to reuse.


----------



## Bgriffin856

"High tensile barbed wired" are we talking the gaucho (sp) type wire? Imo best barbed wire there is. Last for darn near ever


----------



## deadmoose

It took me awhile. By the time my pounder was home and in shape it was raining. Then time for fieldwork. Then hay.... I am making some progress now.

Quick question:

What are advantages and disadvantages of different ways of attaching high tensile wires to posts? 
Ideally, cheap easy,and reliable!! But realistically, I think reliability first, ease of installation second, and as long as not outrageously priced, that is the third consideration.

Thoughts?


----------



## BWfarms

The black pin style insulators are best. Toss the nails and use deck screws. Faster install and easy to replace broken insulators and line spacing remains the same. $7 a bag of 25.


----------



## deadmoose

BWfarms said:


> The black pin style insulators are best. Toss the nails and use deck screws. Faster install and easy to replace broken insulators and line spacing remains the same. $7 a bag of 25.


Like this?

http://www.kencove.com/fence/Pin-Lock+Insulator_detail_I8P.php


----------



## IH 1586

http://www.kencove.com/fence/Wood+Post+Insulators_detail_I50.php

These are good for long runs. I save the pin insulators for where I put the spring gates or any thing else I may want to take down or put up. They now have these http://www.kencove.com/fence/Wood+Post+Insulators_detail_I5S.phpif you forget to install enough or if you add a post later.


----------



## BWfarms

Those should work.


----------



## stack em up

I use these, one staple to hold them on.

http://www.kencove.com/fence/Flat+Back+Tube+Insulator+-+Finned_detail_I53.php


----------



## Boatman

Have any of you experimented with fixed knot high tensile woven wire? It gets pretty cost effective with the capability of increased post spacing. For all of our barbed wire, we switched to 14 gauge high tensile a few years ago, and have been quite a bit happier with it over the 15.5 gauge.


----------



## endrow

Boatman said:


> Have any of you experimented with fixed knot high tensile woven wire? It gets pretty cost effective with the capability of increased post spacing. For all of our barbed wire, we switched to 14 gauge high tensile a few years ago, and have been quite a bit happier with it over the 15.5 gauge.


 how do you stretch high-tensile barbed wire on a run between the post what is used to fasten it to the Post and what do you do and how do you do the corners


----------



## IHCman

endrow said:


> how do you stretch high-tensile barbed wire on a run between the post what is used to fasten it to the Post and what do you do and how do you do the corners


When I worked for a custom fencer and we had to install the high tensile barb we did it one of two ways. We either stretched it and tied off to the corner posts like normal 12 gauge barb wire (it never seems to stop stretching) or we removed enough barbs off of the high tensile stuff to install strainers. Whatever the customer preferred we did it that way. Seemed to work well either way and I've seen some of those fences years later and both seemed to be holding up well. If I had a lot of deer to worry about hitting the fence, I'd probably put strainers inline.

We called the high tensile stuff chicken shit wire. It was at times a pain to work with as it seemed we had more problems unrolling it than with the normal 12 guage wire. Part we liked was the rolls were lighter. Seemed light as air after working with the 12 guage rolls.

Really though I thought it made a rather nice fence and kept cattle in just as well as if it had been regular wire. I say that but I've never used it on any of mine or Dad's fences.


----------



## IH 1586

endrow said:


> how do you stretch high-tensile barbed wire on a run between the post what is used to fasten it to the Post and what do you do and how do you do the corners


On the farm here the locusts posts are about every 4-5 paces. When replacing a long stretch we just use fence pliers and pull it tight every 4th post then go back and staple. I have never used or would know how to use fence stretchers. I remember them hanging in the shed but never used them. I may remember dad using once or twice growing up and they were the old pulley system that you pull the rope to stretch.


----------



## Boatman

endrow said:


> how do you stretch high-tensile barbed wire on a run between the post what is used to fasten it to the Post and what do you do and how do you do the corners


http://www.farmfencesolutions.com/product/barbed-wire-gripple-plus/

We use Gripples to tension barbed wire. They are quick and quite a bit cheaper than a ratchet. The Farm Fence Solutions outfit does some YouTube videos of some good fencing techniques. I've tried some of the Gripple quick braces they demo, but we still mostly use 12.5 gauge HT for the braces. We staple to wood posts, and use some wire clips that spin on with a cordless drill on pipe posts.


----------

