# Season nearly over, BR 7070 questions



## kbhblazer (May 7, 2014)

I baled about 1500 bales this season, a season that was very short. Rained until June and stopped raining in July??? Any way I asked a lot of questions about net wrap tearing and bales blowing about, thanks for all the help on this site. Finally realized and after bugging the crap out of my dealer, one of the roller was getting really hot and making the net brittle. They did a fix on it but I never got to bale very much after that , it seemed to do fine. Any one else have this problem?


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## Gearclash (Nov 25, 2010)

Which roller and what was the fix?


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## kbhblazer (May 7, 2014)

It was the second form the bottom. it would get hay in the end of it and get hot . The roller had to much gap. I also realized the string guides , I don't string tie, can get hay hung in them and not let the hay drop out(I'm taking them off). some how the close the gap up and put a piece of square stock to keep it pushed out.

The bales would look like a cone so to speak.


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## Tx Jim (Jun 30, 2014)

kbhblazer said:


> The bales would look like a cone so to speak.


All cone shaped rd bales I've seen were caused by operator error not baler malfunction.


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## kbhblazer (May 7, 2014)

The cone shape was an exaggeration and the roller would get to 200 degrees on the left side and get the net hot and brittle. when I kicked out the bale it would be larger on one side that the other. So Yes it was the baler. When they did come out and look at it I immediately got it into the shop. It didn't happen every time but more than it should have. They put me first in line so they knew what the problem was. I had heard this from another guy who had his baled up and said he messed up his hay and I should not buy a br7070 because that is what he used. I was just wanting to know if anyone had this problem.

thanks Jim for the reply.


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## mike10 (May 29, 2011)

The vast majority of people will not have a problem, but it does crop up from time to time. I have probably done three or four balers. It is the stationary roll which has the problem. The one with the hex shaft. I have not had to do any of the 7000 series balers with the formed roll instead of the dimple roll , but evidently it can happen. That is why I told you to refer your dealer to the technical information available on the problem.

The problem will not cause cone shape bales, but the bale's appearance after ejection can make the bale look worse if the net is damaged. The baler can not move hay around in the chamber only the operator can place the hay.


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## Gearclash (Nov 25, 2010)

I just replaced one of these stationary rollers in a BR780A, and yes, it would be possible to not have a roll properly centered between the side sheets. It depends on the proper placement of shims.


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## kbhblazer (May 7, 2014)

I get the placement of the hay deal, that was not the problem it was the hot roller . I could tell that the roller was moved over when I got it back. I was the one with the hexed shaft, I saw they worked on it. *Mike 10*, I did print out the info and took it to them when they were going to work on it. Thanks for doing that. So it seems this is a problem with these balers if even a rare one


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## MDill (Feb 8, 2015)

I think your issue with the twine arms is because they aren't retracted all the way. Just switch over to twine on your monitor and hit retract. Same thing happened to me last year with the 740A at work. I never use twine so I didn't realize it was the issue until I fooled around with it, I was thinking it was a bad design.


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## mike10 (May 29, 2011)

If you plan on doing wet hay and never use twine, I would remove the twine knife mechanism from the baler. If you only do dry hay then it does not matter if you remove it or not.


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## kbhblazer (May 7, 2014)

I will absolutely remove it and I'm going to. I had so much trouble this spring, I started off doing balage and the wheat I was baleing would get wrapped up around those things. I did have a question about that There is a bar that goes from on side to the other , it seems to be integrated with the knives, I'm assuming I would remove that also.


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## mlappin (Jun 25, 2009)

mike10 said:


> If you plan on doing wet hay and never use twine, I would remove the twine knife mechanism from the baler. If you only do dry hay then it does not matter if you remove it or not.


First thing I took off mine was the twine arm assemblies. Never use twine anymore and they just hold that much more chaff.


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## deadmoose (Oct 30, 2011)

mlappin said:


> First thing I took off mine was the twine arm assemblies. Never use twine anymore and they just hold that much more chaff.


Why bother buying the baler with them? Wont NH sell with net no twine?


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## mike10 (May 29, 2011)

The cross tube does get removed. You will have it out anyway to remove the pieces you want to remove.

On the BR series balers, twine came with the net option except for bale slice balers where it was an option. On the new series you can get them without twine.


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## mlappin (Jun 25, 2009)

deadmoose said:


> Why bother buying the baler with them? Wont NH sell with net no twine?


Was a used unit, came with it regardless.


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## kbhblazer (May 7, 2014)

It just came that way if I ever get another it wont have twine at all. I removed the string boxes off of it already. I wanted to get the new baler, but it didn't have crop cuter option.


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