# More motor oil



## endrow (Dec 15, 2011)

Rotella is an excellent choice ,b ut a local guy where's the big AG repair shop and does nothing but overhaul tractors and Transmissions is dead set against Rotella. He switch this over to Case IH number 1 15-40 years ago. We John Deere engine oil in our only John Deere tractor and the thought crossed my mind to switch over to all John Deere motor oil it is synthetic it is a good product would it be a good choice for all our tractors including late model blue tractors some red tractors and a combine with 8.3 Cummins, and a bunch of old 86 and 66 series International


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## Trillium Farm (Dec 18, 2014)

endrow said:


> Rotella is an excellent choice ,b ut a local guy where's the big AG repair shop and does nothing but overhaul tractors and Transmissions is dead set against Rotella. He switch this over to Case IH number 1 15-40 years ago. We John Deere engine oil in our only John Deere tractor and the thought crossed my mind to switch over to all John Deere motor oil it is synthetic it is a good product would it be a good choice for all our tractors including late model blue tractors some red tractors and a combine with 8.3 Cummins, and a bunch of old 86 and 66 series International


Personally I'd go with John Deer synthetic. Nothing lubricates as well as synthetic, cold starts, higher flash temp, much less deposit on valves pistons and seats. Also any other good name synthetic motor oil if you don't want to pay for JD name. Remember that what sets the price are the additives in the oil, cheaper price = less additives (in general)


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## Vol (Jul 5, 2009)

Good post Trillium.....some may not be JD fans, but it is hard to beat Plus 50 II.....Deere has basically doubled the hours before change with this oil.

Regards, Mike


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## stack em up (Mar 7, 2013)

We have used Cenex engine oil and hydraulic oils. We've never had any engine problems caused by inferior oil. What does Deere oil cost?


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## r82230 (Mar 1, 2016)

stack em up said:


> We have used Cenex engine oil and hydraulic oils. We've never had any engine problems caused by inferior oil. What does Deere oil cost?


If you have to ask, you can't afford it. :lol: :lol:

Sorry Stack, must of hit my head on something this morning.

Sometimes, "it's not the price your pay, but the cost of not paying" that counts.

Larry


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## stack em up (Mar 7, 2013)

I have no interest in buying any, just curious of the cost per engine hour. Like I say, Cenex has treated us well for years, no reason to change now. And I don't wanna drive 30 miles for oil either.. We change engine oil every 100-130 hours on the most used stuff, the tractors that don't get used much get changed once a year whether they need it or not! None of our tractors are new enough to worry about, newest is the LT75, that's a 2005, the Challenger is a 2002, the rest are 1990 and older....


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## r82230 (Mar 1, 2016)

Can't say I have ever heard of Cenex, we use to use CePeCo oil (55 gal drums). I think it stood for Central Petroleum Company. But, this was way before synthetics, which are most likely a heck of a lot better oil.

Larry


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## endrow (Dec 15, 2011)

I guess my other question would be. I have quite a few tractors 25 plus years old high hours doing good, International 86 and 66 series they have never saw synthetic oil I read on some forums where they say never switch them over to synthetic. They should stay on Dino oil forever. Has anyone else had heard the risk of switching the tractors from conventional to synthetic


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## stack em up (Mar 7, 2013)

Cenex is sold thru our co-ops. Must be a regional thing, but I thought everyone had It. CenPeCo used to sponsor some tractor pulls over in SE MN, but has since up and vanished. Texas Refinery Corp oil can be gotten here, but I think their 15w40 is something like $31/gallon? That may have been synthetic too, I'm not sure anymore.


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## Trillium Farm (Dec 18, 2014)

Vol said:


> Good post Trillium.....some may not be JD fans, but it is hard to beat Plus 50 II.....Deere has basically doubled the hours before change with this oil.
> 
> Regards, Mike


I've been using synthetic since 1975 and what a difference it makes. I'm using a european oil in my car which in Europe is good for up to 45,000Km but here in Northamerica they limit it to 15,000Km. Never skimp on lubrication !


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## Trillium Farm (Dec 18, 2014)

stack em up said:


> I have no interest in buying any, just curious of the cost per engine hour. Like I say, Cenex has treated us well for years, no reason to change now. And I don't wanna drive 30 miles for oil either.. We change engine oil every 100-130 hours on the most used stuff, the tractors that don't get used much get changed once a year whether they need it or not! None of our tractors are new enough to worry about, newest is the LT75, that's a 2005, the Challenger is a 2002, the rest are 1990 and older....


Hi Stack, you can get away with cheaper or not as high performing oils because you have older tractors, but anyone with machines 10yrs or younger would be well advised to switch, these day they seem to taylor the oil to the engine.


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## Trillium Farm (Dec 18, 2014)

endrow said:


> I guess my other question would be. I have quite a few tractors 25 plus years old high hours doing good, International 86 and 66 series they have never saw synthetic oil I read on some forums where they say never switch them over to synthetic. They should stay on Dino oil forever. Has anyone else had heard the risk of switching the tractors from conventional to synthetic


Hi Endrow if you have performed reg oil changes when due, then there should be any problems. The synthetics do clean better the engine and if you have a lot of deposits they will dislodge them causing possibly a leak where the seals are if they've hardened. I know of a lot of people who switched, well maintained engines, over and had no problems.


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## stack em up (Mar 7, 2013)

Are we talking changing to synthetic oil in general? Or specifically Deere synthetic oil? Only reason I ask is because our Cenex oil is a synthetic blend, and I was curious what refinery Deere is sourcing heir oil from. I know AGCO oils, Cenex brand, and IH engine oil, (not sure of HyTran) is from the same refinery.


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## r82230 (Mar 1, 2016)

stack em up said:


> Cenex is sold thru our co-ops. Must be a regional thing, but I thought everyone had It. CenPeCo used to sponsor some tractor pulls over in SE MN, but has since up and vanished. Texas Refinery Corp oil can be gotten here, but I think their 15w40 is something like $31/gallon? That may have been synthetic too, I'm not sure anymore.


Missed a n, was CenPeCo, now that you mention it, hard drive getting full I guess.

Larry


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## Trillium Farm (Dec 18, 2014)

stack em up said:


> Are we talking changing to synthetic oil in general? Or specifically Deere synthetic oil? Only reason I ask is because our Cenex oil is a synthetic blend, and I was curious what refinery Deere is sourcing heir oil from. I know AGCO oils, Cenex brand, and IH engine oil, (not sure of HyTran) is from the same refinery.


I was referring to synthetics in general, but of good quality. Not all synthetics are at the same level, it depends on the additives they have. JD doesn't make its own oil, they have someone do it for them with their specs. Don't bother with blends, their are a waste of money either stay with reg oil or go full synthetic.


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## stack em up (Mar 7, 2013)

Trillium Farm said:


> . Don't bother with blends, their are a waste of money either stay with reg oil or go full synthetic.


That's interesting you say that, had our petroleum guy say the same thing. I guess I should have worded it different, not said the word blend. I just meant regular or synthetic oil.


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## Trillium Farm (Dec 18, 2014)

The idea of synthetics is threefold:

1) Quicker lubrication on a cold engine = Less wear

2)Higher flashpoint = lubricating at higher temp before burning off

3)Longer stability = Keeps engine lubricated and clean for much longer

There are additional benefits:

Doesn't oxidate as much nor as quickly

Doesn't leave burned deposits on pistons,valves & valve seats.

Had a mechanic approach me years ago asking what kind of oil I was using, I told him, thinking "my engine is shot" and he said I've never seen an engine so clean after 80,000Km. I know it's a bit more money up front, but well worth it. I've changed all my fluids to synthetic including lawn mower and snow blower.


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## haysprout (Mar 2, 2015)

We've had good luck with synthetic blends. Running CAM2 Heavy Duty 15-40 Synthetic Blend in all our tractors and swathers. Priced at $9/Gallon


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## Farmineer95 (Aug 11, 2014)

Last CenPeCo I bought in a 30 gal drum was about $18/gal. They're still around. I called the number to get hooked up with the "local" rep. They delivered it.


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## Vol (Jul 5, 2009)

I am going to run full synthetic in my pickup that I bought a few weeks back....gas burner so It will live longer hopefully.

Regards, Mike


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## Orchard6 (Apr 30, 2014)

Vol said:


> I am going to run full synthetic in my pickup that I bought a few weeks back....gas burner so It will live longer hopefully.
> 
> Regards, Mike


Not a bad idea if you keep your truck well past 150k but most engines live long happy lives (200k+)with dino juice and routine oil changes. Around here most vehicles rot out from road salt long before the engine gets worn out enough to warrant an overhaul. 
To get the full benefit of synthetic oils be sure to get your oil tested to see when the proper time to change it is. If you're just going to change it at 3,000 miles like you would a conventional oil you may be just throwing money and good oil in the drain pan!


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## Vol (Jul 5, 2009)

Orchard6 said:


> Not a bad idea if you keep your truck well past 150k but most engines live long happy lives (200k+)with dino juice and routine oil changes. Around here most vehicles rot out from road salt long before the engine gets worn out enough to warrant an overhaul.
> To get the full benefit of synthetic oils be sure to get your oil tested to see when the proper time to change it is. If you're just going to change it at 3,000 miles like you would a conventional oil you may be just throwing money and good oil in the drain pan!


Nope, I would not use synthetic oil if I was going to change at 3k intervals.....extended change intervals is half the reason to even burn synthetic. I will go at least 5k and very likely more....actually, I am sure I will go 7500 miles...Mobil 1 extended says 15K or one year...that would make me nervous....but I am sure it would be good for BMW's which are now designed to go 10K between changes.

Regards, Mike


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## Trillium Farm (Dec 18, 2014)

Vol said:


> I am going to run full synthetic in my pickup that I bought a few weeks back....gas burner so It will live longer hopefully.
> 
> Regards, Mike


Make sure it meets or exceeds the specs in your owner's manual. There was a time when all we had to worry was to meet the weight now we have to meet the specs of the manual. In my car the oil has to meet the manufact specs and have its official approval.


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## stack em up (Mar 7, 2013)

Trillium Farm said:


> Had a mechanic approach me years ago asking what kind of oil I was using, I told him, thinking "my engine is shot" and he said I've never seen an engine so clean after 80,000Km. I know it's a bit more money up front, but well worth it. I've changed all my fluids to synthetic including lawn mower and snow blower.


Why did the mechanic need to be in there at 50,000 miles?


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## luke strawwalker (Jul 31, 2014)

Vol said:


> I am going to run full synthetic in my pickup that I bought a few weeks back....gas burner so It will live longer hopefully.
> 
> Regards, Mike


I got my 02 F150 Supercrew with 29,000 miles in 04... I used Mobil 1 full synthetic 0w-30 in it until it had about 180,000 miles and started burning about a quart every couple weeks. Synthetic is thinner and more of it goes past the rings and seals. I finally switched back to Motorcraft 5w-20 synthetic blend (factory oil) and reduced the oil consumption by half. I now have 292,000 miles on the truck and so far, so good. I changed the oil every 3000 miles until I hit about 150,000, then switched to every 5,000 miles. Works for me...  This is a farm truck that does a lot of towing as well as highway miles...

Later! OL J R


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## Trillium Farm (Dec 18, 2014)

stack em up said:


> Why did the mechanic need to be in there at 50,000 miles?


I was there for an oil change (brought my own oil) and the mech lifted the valves cover just to check that everything was OK, that's when he noticed how clean it was.


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## Trillium Farm (Dec 18, 2014)

luke strawwalker said:


> I got my 02 F150 Supercrew with 29,000 miles in 04... I used Mobil 1 full synthetic 0w-30 in it until it had about 180,000 miles and started burning about a quart every couple weeks. Synthetic is thinner and more of it goes past the rings and seals. I finally switched back to Motorcraft 5w-20 synthetic blend (factory oil) and reduced the oil consumption by half. I now have 292,000 miles on the truck and so far, so good. I changed the oil every 3000 miles until I hit about 150,000, then switched to every 5,000 miles. Works for me...  This is a farm truck that does a lot of towing as well as highway miles...
> 
> Later! OL J R


I think that 0W30 was too light an oil for an engine of that era. My car should take 0W40 per manufact, but is a lot happier with 5W40. Cannot understand the oil burning as I've never encountered it with synthetic. Maybe the previous owner didn't change it when due. Synthetic is not thinner (for same weight) but it flows better thereby giving you earlier lubrication.


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## Farmineer95 (Aug 11, 2014)

I was talking to a friend that said a car started using oil. While working on it noticed the seemed to be a lot of crankcase vacuum. Bad PVC valve. Put in a new one and oil consumption went down big time. Not saying that's the cure,just saying.


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## deadmoose (Oct 30, 2011)

Farmineer95 said:


> I was talking to a friend that said a car started using oil. While working on it noticed the seemed to be a lot of crankcase vacuum. Bad PVC valve. Put in a new one and oil consumption went down big time. Not saying that's the cure,just saying.


What was the car?


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## Farmineer95 (Aug 11, 2014)

Toyota I think. Minivan
Close to 200,000 miles


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## Bruce Hopf (Jun 29, 2016)

I have 2 Combines, with Gas Engines, that are 50 years old (1966 models). Would a person put Synthetic Oil, in them, or just leave them with Dino Oil?


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## Vol (Jul 5, 2009)

I would be hesitant to make a change at this stage.

Regards, Mike.


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## paoutdoorsman (Apr 23, 2016)

Vol said:


> I would be hesitant to make a change at this stage.
> 
> Regards, Mike.


x 2.


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## Bruce Hopf (Jun 29, 2016)

Was thinking the same thing, too, after I had asked.


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## Bruce Hopf (Jun 29, 2016)

Vol said:


> I would be hesitant to make a change at this stage.
> Regards, Mike.





paoutdoorsman said:


> x 2.


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## luke strawwalker (Jul 31, 2014)

Trillium Farm said:


> I think that 0W30 was too light an oil for an engine of that era. My car should take 0W40 per manufact, but is a lot happier with 5W40. Cannot understand the oil burning as I've never encountered it with synthetic. Maybe the previous owner didn't change it when due. Synthetic is not thinner (for same weight) but it flows better thereby giving you earlier lubrication.


Yeah, "thinner" was a poor choice of words...

It "wets out" better, ie slips through smaller openings... been my experience that on older motors it gets past the rings and valve guide seals a lot easier, hence more oil consumption... the 0w30 part doesn't help as that IS a thinner oil than recommended... but it worked! I've also seen that if you have worn seals, with regular motor oil they'll be "damp" with oil... with synthetic the same seal will be SOAKED with oil leaking past it... just goes back to that "wetting out" better and getting through smaller spaces...

At least that's been my own experience on several different vehicles...

I like synthetic, but if you have an older vehicle that's got some wear on it, seems like it'll drink synthetic oil like like a college kid getting into your beer-- chug, chug, chug!!! Same engine on regular dino oil or semi-synthetic (blend) will just sip that oil like fine wine... LOL

Later! OL J R


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## Trillium Farm (Dec 18, 2014)

luke strawwalker said:


> Yeah, "thinner" was a poor choice of words...
> 
> It "wets out" better, ie slips through smaller openings... been my experience that on older motors it gets past the rings and valve guide seals a lot easier, hence more oil consumption... the 0w30 part doesn't help as that IS a thinner oil than recommended... but it worked! I've also seen that if you have worn seals, with regular motor oil they'll be "damp" with oil... with synthetic the same seal will be SOAKED with oil leaking past it... just goes back to that "wetting out" better and getting through smaller spaces...
> 
> ...


Without a doubt synthetic cleans out the engine better than conventional and if there are deposits they'll come out and if these were sealing you'll have leaks. There has been a change, in the last few years, of how the pistons seal. It used to be that the the rings had to touch the wall, but now the seal is made by the oil, so the rings no longer touch the wall, this makes the choice of oil even important than ever. This is in cars I don't know if it applies to low revving, industrial/farm equipment. I play it safe and always get the best lubrication money can buy, even if it may be unnecessary, I'd rather err by excess than default, the cost of oil compared to repair is so much less.


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