# 530 JD wont start tying



## seventyfourci (May 13, 2014)

Small time wheat hay. Cut, raked, now the 530 JD I just switched to after I sold my little square baler will not start tying the bales. I checked all the adjustments (I THINK) even primed the pump but t will not start tying. I can manually move arm and the pump will return it and put twine in cutter but will not start the process. Help me Please


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## urednecku (Oct 18, 2010)

Those things can really be a PIA to figure out.

I'm thinking part of your problem might be in the diverter valve, the one that directs the flow for the rod to push or pull, or the levers or linkages that move the valve.

1 of the first things I discovered, (after the 'mechanic' couldn't figure out & left) was the pump likes thin oil, NOT motor oil like he put in it. The pump looks like a power steering pump, so I flushed with diesel then put in power steering oil in it & that helped a lot of the problems I had with mine. (But not all of 'em!)

THAT being said, another thing I found out the hard way, there are a hand-full of 'roll pins' in all the linkages for the tie. My baler would start tie-ing with about a 30 to 36" bale, it didn't matter what it was set for. The mechanic gave up & left. I took the printout of the parts page for that area, sat down & found a roll pin that had sheered off letting things work when they wanted to.

GOOD LUCK, & please let us know what you find out.


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## seventyfourci (May 13, 2014)

Thank you for your response I now have a spot to start looking. If and when I find the problem AND A SOLUTION I will make sure I post it. Again Thanks for your response.


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## cannonball (Jun 23, 2012)

the oil used is type f trans fluid...make sure there are 5 springs in place on tying....make sure that arms are grease..2 fittings on arm...arm has to travel around to switch valve and then ties slow to other side

http://www.yesterdaystractors.com/cgi-bin/viewit.cgi?bd=implment&th=247600


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## nanuk (Aug 29, 2011)

I have a... well... HAD a 430 that I really liked. make a very nice bale, nicer than most.

I kept the pressure up so the bale was TIGHT! and twine wrapped with about 20 wraps. excellent water shedding

anyways, on mine, when I had a problem not starting, it usually had to do with the pump idler not fully engaging.

here is what mine did, there is a spring (I can't tell from the schematic which one it is) that is horizontal, and connected behind most of the stuff, and is near the idler. When activated for tying, this spring would interfere with the movement and the pump would not be run as the idler would not be allowed to fully engage.

I had to physically rotate this spring out of the way... I ended up wiring it to pull it in against the chamber area ( I think that is how I did it... can't quite remember exactly )

what I needed to do (before I destroyed my baler) was to drill a new hole for the spring, moving the spring in ( towards the left hand side, looking in direction of travel ) so it would keep clear

it took me over an hour of playing with this damn thing to figger it out.

I had the baler running, and would trip the tying action and follow the movements.... then reset it, and do it again and again until I had a good idea how it was supposed to work.

Then I paid close attention to why it would occasionally NOT work by activating it several times while running (yes, the chamber was FULL, I pulled the twine back so as to not waste any) to see what was blocking the movement.

what I found, was that damn spring catching, so the idler would not lay TIGHT on the belt to get the pump turning.

this spring also caused my twine arm to move at varying speeds, as sometimes the pump was running at half speed and would put double the wraps... so I would open the valve and get it back to 20 wraps, then the spring would move and the pump would work full speed and I'd put 6 wraps on.... FRUSTRATING

anyways, check the horizontal spring down by the idler to ensure it is not catching something, or on something.

good luck.


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## JLS77 (Mar 4, 2014)

I have a jd 430 also that the twine arm swings across and wont return do I have to have a bale in the baler to check it and problem solve?


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## Nitram (Apr 2, 2011)

JLS77 said:


> I have a jd 430 also that the twine arm swings across and wont return do I have to have a bale in the baler to check it and problem solve?


Will it cycle through with out a bale in the chamber? If so probably catching up on bale/belts


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## urednecku (Oct 18, 2010)

nanuk, THANKS for that input, I'll have to check that spring on my 530 also. (IF I can get the rollers figured out why the belts are riding both directions.)

And YES, you can cycle with OUT a bale in the chamber, the tailgate has to be open most of the way. Problem is there, the drive pully rides on the belts, & I start to smell hot rubber.

But it might be you can take the time to pull the belts away from drive rollers so they don't rub while running.

But *BE CAREFUL WITH THE BALER OPEN!! -- *LOCK IT OPEN AND BE CAREFUL WITH HANDS ETC AOUND THE MOVING PARTS!!!


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## nanuk (Aug 29, 2011)

JLS77 said:


> I have a jd 430 also that the twine arm swings across and wont return do I have to have a bale in the baler to check it and problem solve?


An Nitram says, you can cycle it without a bale in the chamber. even with NEW belts, mine didn't rub when the gate was closed. (higher pressure??? I dunno) So I could cycle mine with the gate closed.

IIRC, to cycle it from the tractor, you can open your gate all the way and it will trip.

with the baler running, there is a way to trip the action, I think (i'm not at my baler) you lift a hooked bar near the rear of the linkage, simulating a full bale, this will allow the idler to put pressure on the belt that starts the pump... ( You HAVE checked all your springs, Right?? I had one break, and that also did not allow the tying function to work properly.... the one that broke on mine was a heavy spring, horizontal near the top of the linkage stuff )

<<<<<<OH BRAIN FART>>>> Check the valve near the front... MINE would stick down, and I'd need to work it loose before starting out otherwise it would stick DOWN and not allow the arm to swing. It is just a directional control valve. lift it and arm is swung to the left, put it down and the arm is swung to the right, tying the bale. <<<<<<>>>>>>

now, if yours is going to the left side, and then not moving back, check for interference as it travels to the left side... it everything is free, check on the right hand side by the pump area, there is a bar that is pushed by the tail of the gearing on the arm. That bar pushes the valve DOWN, as I refered to above, to change the direction of travel and bring the arm back.

one important thing.... IIRC the pump runs when in cycle mode only, AND the system is closed on the cylinder side, so when the cylinder reaches the end of its travel, and the pump is NOT tripped OFF (check this out first thing to save your pump) the oil will be flowing over the relief valve and the pump will get HOT HOT HOT. Run the pump intermittently, and keep an eye (hand?) on the pump to ensure it does not get too hot.


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## JLS77 (Mar 4, 2014)

Thanks for all the info it acted up on the last two bales last year and I havent looked into it till now it will swing across but not return, nothing is abstructing the arm from swinging back and all the springs seem to be intact so I wanted to run it and watch everything work and see if im missing something


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## JLS77 (Mar 4, 2014)

Fixed my 430 baler after a lot of trial and error come to find out the pump was bad its the same as a powere steering pump off a chevy motor I took it to the parts store and matched it up and im back in buisness


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## Bwo77 (Jun 14, 2021)

urednecku said:


> Those things can really be a PIA to figure out.
> 
> I'm thinking part of your problem might be in the diverter valve, the one that directs the flow for the rod to push or pull, or the levers or linkages that move the valve.
> 
> ...


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## Bwo77 (Jun 14, 2021)

I’m having problems with my 530 baler sometimes it will bale a three foot roll on it’s on then sometimes it will bale a four foot bale like it’s supposed to also i noticed the latch at the top of the pump isn’t locking in when you dump a bale any suggestions on what to start looking for


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## Tx Jim (Jun 30, 2014)

Welcome to HT
Twine pump mechanism was designed to latch therefore relieving tension on pump drive belt therefore pump shaft stops turning. Are all 5 springs on twine pump linkage attached correctly?


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## Tx Jim (Jun 30, 2014)

oops


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## Bwo77 (Jun 14, 2021)

Tx Jim said:


> Welcome to HT
> Twine pump mechanism was designed to latch therefore relieving tension on pump drive belt therefore pump shaft stops turning. Are all 5 springs on twine pump linkage attached correctly?


Not really for sure I have been trying to find an owners manual and a schematic book for it


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## Tx Jim (Jun 30, 2014)

Parts schematic of twine pump mechanism with springs shown below.


https://partscatalog.deere.com/jdrc/sidebyside/equipment/59592/referrer/navigation/pgId/278744


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## Bwo77 (Jun 14, 2021)

Tx Jim said:


> Parts schematic of twine pump mechanism with springs shown below.
> 
> 
> https://partscatalog.deere.com/jdrc/sidebyside/equipment/59592/referrer/navigation/pgId/278744


I have gone through all my springs according to the schematic sheet and everything is good but still when you lift the gate and dump a bale when the gate closes the latch still will not lock back in place on the tension pulley


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## Tx Jim (Jun 30, 2014)

Have you been regularly applying grease to fitting(key 2)? Which bolt does your baler have(49A or 49B) Does your tailgate ease closed or shut hard?

I can't remember the exact details but when 430/530 rd balers were new they experienced a problem with pump drive mechanism not latching after bale was ejected & tail gate closed as you described. The bolt(key 49B) was added to ease that problem.


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## Bwo77 (Jun 14, 2021)

Tx Jim said:


> Have you been regularly applying grease to fitting(key2)? Which bolt does your baler have(49A or 49B)


Yes it has bolt 48 a


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## Tx Jim (Jun 30, 2014)

Does your tailgate ease closed or shut hard? 

For the low cost of $35 I would advise to exchange 48A to 48B


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## Bwo77 (Jun 14, 2021)

Tx Jim said:


> Does your tailgate ease closed or shut hard?
> 
> For the low cost of $35 I would advise to exchange 48A to 48B


Another question on the john deere baler are you supposed to leave the belts running all the time even when you are ejecting the hay


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## Tx Jim (Jun 30, 2014)

yes


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## Bwo77 (Jun 14, 2021)

Tx Jim said:


> yes


Ok thank you for all your help I think we just figured everything out we was shutting the belts off when we was dumping hay because that’s what we had to do on our gehl baler or it would damage the belts


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## Tx Jim (Jun 30, 2014)

You're welcome. Leaving pto engaged while opening/closing tailgate aids for loose hay to be removed from between belts.


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