# Tractor vs Baler Weight Ratio Question



## VA Haymaker (Jul 1, 2014)

My JD and MF, both have square baler duty and next year will tow along with the baler a hay wagon. In a few years, the JD will get a 4x4 round baler. Both tractors are 4x2.

I want to do two things:

1. Keep the front end of this tractor on the ground/maintain steering when baling.

2. Have enough weight on the rears to prevent the load being pulled from pushing my tractor down a moderate hill. Don't think traction is or would be a problem going up.

If I'm going to add weight, I'd like to be smart about it and know what/why I'm adding the additional weight beyond the tractor and it's fluid filled rear tires.

Question is - is there a rule of thumb tractor weight vs baler weight ratio?

Thanks!
Bill


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## slowzuki (Mar 8, 2011)

I've found on mild to moderate hills 6500 lb in 4wd will handle a square baler with 200 bale wagon.

I've found on moderate to steep hills 11,000 lbs in 2wd handles a square baler and 300 bale wagon but 4wd needs to be engaged when turned uphill full loaded or if coming down the hill loaded in rain of after dew.

On a 4x4 round baler 6500 lb in 2wd worked fine in mild hills. On the 4x5 baler the 11,000 lb tractor needed 4wd engaged on moderate hills to back up with full bales to dump sideways. In 2wd it would just spin.


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## mlappin (Jun 25, 2009)

Im guessing my 1600 Oliver weighs around 7500lbs, a 4x5 round baler will push it around going down a fairly steep hill.

My White 2-110 is a little more than 4000lbs heavier than the 1600 and it doesn't get pushed around at all with no ballast in the tires.

I'm thinking by BR740A weighs around 5500lbs empty then add up to a 1100lb bale, so on steep hills a tractor weighing twice as much is a safe bet.


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## PaMike (Dec 7, 2013)

I run a case 685 with a BR740A. The 685 supposedly is 5500 lb with no weights. I have the tires loaded and its miserable on the hills with the baler. Makes you a better operator, but its borderline not safe... I would say mlappin is about right. Don't forget some good tread on the back rubber as well...


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## hog987 (Apr 5, 2011)

All depends on your definition of a hill. I got a different definition than most. Weight is not the only thing. Speed is also a big factor. Also I would rather have a lighter fwa tractor than a heavier 2wd. Have way more control with the fwa. With 2wd with baler going down hill it wont turn tires just skid. Going up hill the front end lifts of the ground and than have to steer with the wheel brakes. On a side hill trying to turn up cant make a 90○ turn tractor just wont turn even with brakes. Have to make a 270○ turn instead. These hardly happen with the fwa. Plus you get 4 wheel breaking with fwa. Still does not help going down the steepest hill. Cant stop on it with baler. Just puts the tractor into a skid till your at bottom.


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## VA Haymaker (Jul 1, 2014)

Great info everyone - very helpful info!

Thanks,
Bill


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## rjmoses (Apr 4, 2010)

I have some hills that I won't go across, just up/down. My thought is that the surface I'm on makes a difference as well. Better traction on plain dirt; mowed alfalfa OK; traction on grass not so good.  Soft ground OK; hard ground not so good. Muddy ground-oh,oh. Dew on grass--bye, bye.

I want enough weight that I don't have to worry, but not so much that I compact the ground.

Ralph


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## mlappin (Jun 25, 2009)

I have some of those as well, never across always up and down those hills.

Dew on grass will also push the mowing tractor around while turning and swinging the discbine from one side to the other.


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