# Baler, disc cutter and rake



## Ray450 (May 23, 2019)

I've had my property baled for the last 8 years, and plan to start doing it myself this year. Not looking to make a big profit, but need it done on my schedule due to using property for other things. About 100 acres of it can be cut for hay, but it has some rough bottom land, small ditches to cross and plenty of nasty Honey locust trees that I'll eventually try to kill off, that I have to negotiate around. I have a older 65 HP tractor, and just bought a used 18 Deere 6105E cab tractor.









Now I need to focus on getting a cutter, baler and rake. I'll be doing this while working a full time job for at least another 2 years, after that I'd like to pick up more work, but could probably upgrade some equipment then. I'd really like to try to stay in a budget range of around $20k-28k for all 3 pieces of equipment. What would you suggest allocating for each? I'm east of Dallas, so I have most of the dealers near me, Deere and NH seem to be the biggest and easiest to deal with in this area, and I tend to lean towards green just because I have a Deere tractor and CTL, they are the closest, and there is a Deere field tech very close.

Baler- I'm hoping to find a 4x6, or maybe 4x5 net baler. So far I've mostly looked at and researched Deere 467, 468 and 469 balers. My last hay guy had a 460, and he seemed to still clog it up pretty good, so should a silage be considered? Bottom land tends to get really thick before it's dry enough to cut/bale. I really need something simple, durable and not overly complicated for a new operator. I'd consider any brand.

Cutter- I'm a little more undecided on this. I'd love to get a trailed disc cutter, but my current budget might have me getting by with a 3 pt 9' disc cutter for at least this year. I assume for my tractor/grass (mostly bermuda, Johnson grass and weeds, I think, but if the bottom doesn't get cut early enough, giant ragweed starts taking over) I'd need a 9'-10' 3pt or a 10'-12' trailed cutter, and if I get a conditioner, I'd really only probably need a flail type? Recommendations? Not so much brand, but size and type? My last hay guy has still not pulled his burned tractor/mower off the property, I've considered making an offer on the mower. I think it would need all new hydraulic lines, elec line, and gear box seals.









Rake- really have done little research yet. I assume it would be a 8-10 wheel rake for now with my budget, in the $2k-$4k range used.









my last hay delivery this year.


----------



## 8350HiTech (Jul 26, 2013)

If you could buy that mower for a good price I would definitely go for it. Few hoses and seals and you should be in business. I'd try to buy the tractor too if cheap enough. Somebody somewhere will pay more than you expect for a burned mfwd rig.

As to how to allocate your funds, that's tough because it's all theoretical. However, I have a feeling you could get a very solid baler for $12-14 and ideally a fairly heavy duty rake considering how thick you're saying your bottom land gets. The mower is probably the wild card. I personally wouldn't buy one you think you'd only have for a year if there's maybe a possibility to find someone in your area to mow for you for one year instead. There are probably a lot of people who wouldn't want to take on your hating job in its entirety but might have time to swing by and knock down several acres on the way to doing something else.


----------



## Ray450 (May 23, 2019)

I spoke to my hay guy, he claims he's coming to get the burnt mower n cutter this weekend, that he has a buyer for them. I might go look at this 469 tomorrow morning.

https://www.unitedagandturf.com/used-equipment/round-balers/john-deere-469-e493856/

more than I want to spend, but I learn a little every time I look at them. I noticed it's missing the inner panels, has a master link hanging off the chain and is it normal for the front roller to hang lower on the right side when looking at the front? Is that just a float adjustment or something to be concerned about. Anyone notice anything else?

I might also go look at this Krone Baler Monday.

https://www.auctiontime.com/listings/farm-equipment/auctions/online/188833801/krone-fortima-v1800mc

But it scares me, just doesn't seem to be any dealers or hardly anyone in this area that uses them. From what research I've done, it sounds like a quality product that would fit my needs well, and it might go cheap enough. They also have a couple cutters;

https://www.sullivanequipmentsales.com/inventory/?/listings/farm-equipment/for-sale/99940831/kuhn-gmd700gii-hd?dlr=1&pcid=3560461

https://www.auctiontime.com/listings/farm-equipment/auctions/online/190111457/john-deere-630

and rake

https://www.auctiontime.com/listings/farm-equipment/auctions/online/190111485/kuhn-sr110

So it might be worth the trip even if I don't bid on the baler. This dealer is pretty close to me.


----------



## Tx Jim (Jun 30, 2014)

I don't understand why your previous custom baler person had problems continually clogging a JD 460 rd baler unless the windrows weren't very uniform. My JD 467 very rarely gets clogged & when it does it's normally operator error. When you purchase a rake I'll advise to get a rake that windrow & raking widths can both be adjusted independently. That's a feature of my H&S Hi-cap 14 wheel rake that I utilize often & a good,uniform windrow males rd baling a lot easier. What is your average bale per acre production per cutting?

I wonder why the JD 469 baler you've listed only shows "16" bales as that seems odd but the price looks enticing.


----------



## Ray450 (May 23, 2019)

Tx Jim said:


> I don't understand why your previous custom baler person had problems continually clogging a JD 460 rd baler unless the windrows weren't very uniform. My JD 467 very rarely gets clogged & when it does it's normally operator error. Not sure, they only ever cut the back once because they always want to wait until it all dries out, which sometimes doesn't really happen until July. It gets pretty tall/thick. I helped get it unclogged, as he brought it up and wanted to try a variety of tools to try to get it unclogged. He even had a Deere tech come out at one point and was threatening to have them take it back. When I was helping him, it seemed too wet to me. I think the windrows were thick, bone dry on the outside, but too much moisture on the bottom/middle, but I really don't know. Most seemed very dry (probably 100 degrees when we were working on it), but the grass that was jambed was wet to the touch.
> 
> When you purchase a rake I'll advise to get a rake that windrow & raking widths can both be adjusted independently.
> 
> ...


----------



## dvcochran (Oct 1, 2017)

With the diversity of your grasses, and potential length, definitely stay with a flail conditioner if you get one.

I believe a mower is the highest risk item you mention when purchasing used. There is just too much of the machine you cannot see from the outside. And it is the expensive, high wear parts of the machine. That said, the 10' mower I currently run (JD R310) I purchased used. However, I purchased it from another farmer/friend who runs 3 mowers and replaces one each year. So I knew I was buying a 2 year old mower with 800 acres on it. If you can find this kind of scenario, it takes a ton of unknowns out of the equation. I highly recommend Krone, JD, or Kuhn. My JD is a green Kuhn. We also have a New Holland 12' trailed mower/flail conditioner which has held up well. The modular bar is very easy to work on.

I am not quite following you cutter purchase logic. Are you planning to purchase a Used cutter for one year, then purchase a new/better cutter next year? If so I agree with 8350HiTech; if you can hire someone to cut for one/two years, put your current funds in a better/newer baler. I did not see you mention a tedder. A valuable asset in my area (TN).

I ran an older Krone baler for two years and still have it as a backup. IF everything mechanically sounds(main chains, bars, pickup, etc...) they are a very essy baler to operate. Slower than a belt baler and makes a completely different bale. Mine has chronic problems with the twine system that can be a real PITA but I know they completely changed the feed system. If you do Not have a Krone dealer or service near you I would see that as a deal breaker unless you can get it really cheap.

I have used Krone, JD, and now Vermeer. Do you have a Vermeer dealer? For simplicity I do not think they can be beat. Really simple and relaible balers. They will bale about any windrow you put them on.

I have no real knocks on a JD baler except the economy series.

On the rake, I would get all you can afford, and plan it to be the first piece you upgrade. If you ground is reasonably flat a wheel rake should do the job for you. I have not used a high capacity style wheel rake so cannot speak to them. Rotary's are great but for your budget you would have to go with a single and that is going to slow you down. We have used two wheel rakes for years (8 & 10). Keep all the teeth maintained, the pivot pins replaced and they are really simple and relaible. If your ground is rough it will be hard to maintain enough speed to make them work well. The newer beam style rake help with the need for speed quite a lot.


----------



## JD3430 (Jan 1, 2012)

Maybe I missed it, but equipment aside for a moment, what kind of hay quality are you shooting for? Feed hay? Will you need inside storage? Or are you just baling up mulch hay stored outside? Will you need a silage special? 
who are you marketing your bales to? 
I found inside storage and repairs to be the most expensive and difficult


----------



## Tx Jim (Jun 30, 2014)

Ray450

If bottom of windrow felt wet then it was too wet to bale for normal dry hay which should be 15% moisture or less. Clogging a JD rd baler between the metal starter roll & lower belt drive roller can test one's religion!!! BTDT 4 rd bales per acre is about twice the normal average bales per acre where I live. JD baler ad left off the three 000's but I think price is good for a baler that's only baled 16,000 bales. From reading the Kuhn rake ad it appears to be a good choice.

If I had a person custom baling for me that couldn't/wouldn't tell me the number of bales he baled he would never bale for me again.


----------



## Tx Jim (Jun 30, 2014)

JD3430 said:


> Maybe I missed it, but equipment aside for a moment, what kind of hay quality are you shooting for? Feed hay? Will you need inside storage? Or are you just baling up mulch hay stored outside? Will you need a silage special?


I store all my rd bales outside & have very minimal problems selling to horse owners BUT I store my bales with 3 or more feet between the rows IE no rows touching or pyramided similar to some of my brilliant neighbors. In my area very few silage bales are made although I would like to attempt making some before I retire from baling.


----------



## Ray450 (May 23, 2019)

JD3430 said:


> Maybe I missed it, but equipment aside for a moment, what kind of hay quality are you shooting for? Feed hay? Will you need inside storage? Or are you just baling up mulch hay stored outside? Will you need a silage special?
> who are you marketing your bales to?
> I found inside storage and repairs to be the most expensive and difficult For at least the next couple years while I'm also working a full time job, and promote a event at my property once a year that takes a lot of my time, I'll just be doing cow hay, stored outside.





Tx Jim said:


> Ray450
> 
> If bottom of windrow felt wet then it was too wet to bale for normal dry hay which should be 15% moisture or less. Clogging a JD rd baler between the metal starter roll & lower belt drive roller can test one's religion!!! BTDT 4 rd bales per acre is about twice the normal average bales per acre where I live. JD baler ad left off the three 000's but I think price is good for a baler that's only baled 16,000 bales. From reading the Kuhn rake ad it appears to be a good choice.
> 
> If I had a person custom baling for me that couldn't/wouldn't tell me the number of bales he baled he would never bale for me again. Yes, I let it go the first year, this year was ridiculous considering how much I complained about it. But he was the third one I've fired in 8 years, running out of hay guys in the immediate area. Grass grows good in east Texas bottom land. I'm heading to look at the other equipment now.


 Also, in reply to another comment about not understanding what I meant about the cutter. I only have so much money to start off. I went over a few thousand on the tractor. I'd love to get a trailed 10'-12' mower n spend about 16k, but if I end up spending around $14k-18k to get a good baler (and I have not found what I consider a good one yet in that range), then I'll probably just get a 9' 3pt mower for now, because they are about half of the cost of the trailed ones (plenty around in the $6-$8k range). After a couple years, I could upgrade. I'm hoping that all the equipment will last me longer, but I know that buying 4 pieces of used hay equipment in one season, that I'll get at least one lemon in the bunch that will only be around a season, if that. I have not had great luck getting used equipment.


----------



## Ray450 (May 23, 2019)

Went n looked at the Krone baler, the cutters and rake listed above and stopped at a dealership n looked at new Kuhn 3 pt cutters and they were trying to sell me a used Vermeer Rebel 5420 for $15k. I wasn't overly impressed with the Rebel, it's a economy model, and compared to most of the commercial models I've looked at, it just didn't seem that impressive. It also already had burn marks where a top bearing had failed, and it had less than 1000 bales. It seems like I see a lot of these balers for sale with very low bale counts, which seems to me to mean people are not happy with them. There are also big gaps between the belts, is that an issue? The Kuhn cutter was already sold, the rake had tons of welds, and the Deere 630 looked pretty worn out as well. The Krone baler seemed in really good shape and well engineered with plenty of grease fittings and a auto oiler. If it goes cheap enough, I might be a buyer. I called two local dealers that claim they can get parts and work on them.

https://www.auctiontime.com/listings/farm-equipment/auctions/online/188833801/krone-fortima-v1800mc

There just aren't many of these in my area. Thoughts?

If I can't find a good used disc cutter, the new Kuhn 9' 3pt cutters were a little cheaper than I thought they would be, so if I can get a baler cheap enough, I might just spend $12k and get a new cutter.


----------



## Trillium Farm (Dec 18, 2014)

Ray450 said:


> Went n looked at the Krone baler, the cutters and rake listed above and stopped at a dealership n looked at new Kuhn 3 pt cutters and they were trying to sell me a used Vermeer Rebel 5420 for $15k. I wasn't overly impressed with the Rebel, it's a economy model, and compared to most of the commercial models I've looked at, it just didn't seem that impressive. It also already had burn marks where a top bearing had failed, and it had less than 1000 bales. It seems like I see a lot of these balers for sale with very low bale counts, which seems to me to mean people are not happy with them. There are also big gaps between the belts, is that an issue? The Kuhn cutter was already sold, the rake had tons of welds, and the Deere 630 looked pretty worn out as well. The Krone baler seemed in really good shape and well engineered with plenty of grease fittings and a auto oiler. If it goes cheap enough, I might be a buyer. I called two local dealers that claim they can get parts and work on them.
> 
> https://www.auctiontime.com/listings/farm-equipment/auctions/online/188833801/krone-fortima-v1800mc
> 
> ...


Cutters are a lot easier & cheaper to work on & repair than balers. I'd economize on the cutter to get as good a baler as I can.


----------



## JD3430 (Jan 1, 2012)

Agree. Balers have electronics and newer ones have a computer box. They also have a lot more moving parts.

Another reason to spend more on a reliable baler: once you rake and you're ready to bale, you need to be able to GO. I don't know what your weather is like, but I always seem to find myself baling with dark clouds and rain on the way. Also, not good to leave hay raked and sitting there while fixing an unreliable round baler if you have any damp areas to bale.

On the other hand, if a cutter is broken, it's usually not as stressful to cut a field, as it is to bale a field. You can pretty much CUT when you want; dry or wet. However, you can only BALE when it's sunny & dry.

Nothing worse than raking with rain coming, only to spend hours of valuable sunny weather fixing the baler. Could end up with rained on hay.

one other thing (and this could change from one area to another): it's more likely in my area to be able to rent or borrow a cutter than a baler.


----------



## Tx Jim (Jun 30, 2014)

Trillium Farm said:


> Cutters are a lot easier & cheaper to work on & repair than balers. I'd economize on the cutter to get as good a baler as I can.


I don't agree I'd rather take my chances with a well used baler than a well used disc cutter. IMHO electronics on a JD rd baler aren't complicated & it's not that much $$$ if one is required for a refurbished monitor .


----------



## chevytaHOE5674 (Mar 14, 2015)

I agree on a better baler than mower. Baling is the most time sensitive step, when the hay is dry its go time. If your mower breaks you just fix and regroup another day without losing nice dry hay to rain.

And if the sh*t really hits the fan hay mowers of some sort (sickle mower, haybine 
disc mower, discbine, brush hog, etc) are easily available just about anywhere at anytime. A good used reliable baler isn't always easy to find.


----------



## Tx Jim (Jun 30, 2014)

I've been custom baling with JD rd & sq balers since '87 & I don't remember but 1 time that my rd baler broke that I didn't have it back baling that day. The 1 time I didn't continue baling was when my rd baler caught on fire & burn't. With burn't baler it was next day before I had another baler. I repair my own equipment so I don't have to wait for dealer to schedule my equipment repairs.


----------



## chevytaHOE5674 (Mar 14, 2015)

Jim you just have the best luck. My old NH I was down a few days waiting on parts, a neighbor last summer had his brand spanking new JD top of the line baler down for a few days at different times waiting on parts or the dealer for various problems.

My area is different because the nearest dealer of any color is over 100 miles away (JD dealer is closer to 150 miles) in a different state and the "good" dealers are farther yet. So parts/service/rental machine can be hard to get. A guy has to stock his own parts and do all his own service if he wants things done timely.


----------



## JD3430 (Jan 1, 2012)

Another consideration to which should have more money spent on it (baler or cutter) is local weather. Where I live, we can barely string together 3-5 sunny & dry days.

Therefore, I need a solid, ready to GO baler.

If the OP lives in a wetter summer area, he may want to do same.

If the OP has very dry summers, then theres more time to fix a cheaper baler that is more likely to break down.

Farming can be different from one area to another. I see some take this the wrong way. Some will even disparage each other for not doing it the way THEY do it.

*Although we are trying to achieve mutually similar goals (grow your crop, get off the field timely & efficiently, make a profit) the methods we use to do the aforementioned, can vary significantly. *


----------



## Tx Jim (Jun 30, 2014)

Although Northeast Texas weather that Ray450 experiences & N central Tx weather that I experience can be different but not near as different as weather in Tx vs NE USA.

Maybe I've been lucky with my rd balers but it would be interesting to know what part failed on a brand spanking new JD rd baler that took several days to acquire or was this baler operator waiting on dealer's service dept. to perform the repair?? As I previously stated I perform my own equipment repair IE I don't wait on dealer for repairs. The last piece of equipment a dealer repaired in 2008 for me was a tractor that required splitting to replace reverser synchronizers.


----------



## chevytaHOE5674 (Mar 14, 2015)

He was just waiting on the part service would have been even longer. Was something in the pickup broke late in the day after the dealer had closed, then it had to come from the warehouse pushing it an extra day, then it's a 6 hour round trip to the dealer to get the part.


----------



## Ray450 (May 23, 2019)

The baler scares me more, I can look at the disc and know how they operate. I see a lot of moving parts on the baler that I don't know what they do. The Krone baler just ended a couple grand higher than I was going to go @ $14,600. Probably a great deal for someone familiar with them. Just seemed too risky in my area, for me, no real dealers that sell/service them regularly that I know of around here. I searched some random parts for a Deere baler and got hundreds of returns, got two for the Krone. IF I was buying from an individual, who could have shown me how to hook it up, run it, and that it would make at least one good, tight, wrapped bale, I'd have dropped the cash right then. I had them run it, but I didn't have them get the monitor from the shop and hook it up, I wished I had, but I think I'd be better off waiting and getting a Vermeer or Deere, even if it cost a little more and isn't as clean. I have plenty of people around me that can help out if needed on them. I hope with spring not far off, I'll start seeing more listings.


----------



## Tx Jim (Jun 30, 2014)

chevytaHOE5674 said:


> He was just waiting on the part service would have been even longer. Was something in the pickup broke late in the day after the dealer had closed, then it had to come from the warehouse pushing it an extra day, then it's a 6 hour round trip to the dealer to get the part.


May I ask where you saw the thread referring to this failure? Was the thread on HT or some other forum? I would like to read about that failure.

Thank you.Jim


----------



## Tx Jim (Jun 30, 2014)

Ray450

If rd baler makes no unusual noises when attached to tractor with pto engaged & monitor can be utilized to cycle net or twine actuator then it should be good to go to bale hay. Monitor attached to 12 volt supply & baler would be a good opportunity to check baler total bale count.


----------



## Ray450 (May 23, 2019)

Tx Jim said:


> Ray450
> 
> If rd baler makes no unusual noises when attached to tractor with pto engaged & monitor can be utilized to cycle net or twine actuator then it should be good to go to bale hay. Monitor attached to 12 volt supply & baler would be a good opportunity to check baler total bale count.


Yea, that's why buying at the auctions scare me, can;t run them of even power up the monitors.


----------



## chevytaHOE5674 (Mar 14, 2015)

Jim there was no thread it was a neighbor of mine. A weld failed in the pickup breaking and bending a couple things. Parts were a couple days out and what hay of his I couldn't get baled up got washed a few times before it was able to get baled.

Moral of the story is any brand/color machine WILL fail at some point. Generally the newer/lower bale count the machine the less chance of failure you will have, but it still isn't zero %.


----------



## Tx Jim (Jun 30, 2014)

Thanks for reply & explanation. I totally agree any brand of machine can fail.


----------



## dvcochran (Oct 1, 2017)

Ray450 said:


> Went n looked at the Krone baler, the cutters and rake listed above and stopped at a dealership n looked at new Kuhn 3 pt cutters and they were trying to sell me a used Vermeer Rebel 5420 for $15k. I wasn't overly impressed with the Rebel, it's a economy model, and compared to most of the commercial models I've looked at, it just didn't seem that impressive. It also already had burn marks where a top bearing had failed, and it had less than 1000 bales. It seems like I see a lot of these balers for sale with very low bale counts, which seems to me to mean people are not happy with them. There are also big gaps between the belts, is that an issue? The Kuhn cutter was already sold, the rake had tons of welds, and the Deere 630 looked pretty worn out as well. The Krone baler seemed in really good shape and well engineered with plenty of grease fittings and a auto oiler. If it goes cheap enough, I might be a buyer. I called two local dealers that claim they can get parts and work on them.
> 
> https://www.auctiontime.com/listings/farm-equipment/auctions/online/188833801/krone-fortima-v1800mc
> 
> ...


I spent time on the Krone USA site trying to find a weight for any 1800 with no success. However, they have a ton of options including double axles and axle brakes, which tells me they must be pretty heavy machines. Looking at your link and several other photos I saw it looks that way to me. This could be something to consider depending on your terrain, tractor size, operating experience, etc...

The Fortima looks a lot more 'complicated' than my old 250. Not certain but it looks like they may be trying to duplicate how a belt roller makes a bale, using two sets of chains. 13 plus rollers is a Lot of rollers so quite a bit of mechanicals going on there. Even the ad says they are more "fancy" than the average baler and to do your homework.

Could be a machine with a hell of a learning curve.

I strongly believe Krone makes some of the better built equipment out there.

As far as the Vermeer Rebels, you are correct. That is a line I am certain Vermeer never wished they had launched. It was/is in direct competition with the JD economy series, NH utility series and so on. Each manufacturer has issues with the low end balers in the typical "you get what you pay for" scenario.

I have heard of some exceptional stories on the Rebel series and have first hand experience with a friends 5420. He tried to use it in a commercial setting and by 2000 bales it was not worth repairing. To be fair, some of the failures were the owner/operators fault. It is clearly stated that they are for the 100-300 roll/year farmer.


----------



## Ray450 (May 23, 2019)

Yes, as far as I could tell, the Krone was a very nice baler, but just too risky for a novice operator in my area. Might have been the best deal ever if I had gotten it and jumped into a windrow and it started spitting out nice tight, wrapped rolls. But very likely it was at auction because it couldn't, and I would have had a difficult time figuring it out, finding help and/or parts. Anyway, it's gone, and chances of another Krone in this area coming up is slim. I search and do research every day for balers and cutters. Just doesn't seem to be a lot around here in my price range right now. Might go to auction next Friday, they have some Deere 469 again, one might be the same warped baler they had last time. The auction scares me because so often someone is just dumping a problem off. There's a few I've sent emails on and might go look at that are 1-2 hours away that are just outside my price range. So far these are what I'm considering mostly, 4x6 net, maybe 4x5, in a sort-of order of preference, but that could easily change depending on condition. Trying to stay around $23k-$30k for baler, cutter and rake.

*Deere - * 468 or 469, maybe 459E or 467 if low bale count. Very popular in this area, lots of parts and expertise, several close dealers and they should be a little more responsive to me if I get one because I already own about $100k in Deere equipment, and just bought a 6105E from them. Seem to be very durable, not overly complicated. I'd love to get a silage model, but all Deeres with under 16k bales sell well here. Most in my price range have very worn parts and look like they could need a lot of new parts thrown at them. Finding one in really good condition in my price range may be impossible. Trying to stay under 12k bales, or about 15k bales for silage models?

*Vermeer-* 604M tons of models to decipher, A lot of older commercial series don't seem to even make 4x6 or 4x5 model, or ther's none of them for sale, like XL series? Do not really want a Rebel or Rancher series at all, seems to be a huge quality difference between certain models. Good friend has a 604N, so I have someone who knows about them and can help. Closest dealer to me sells/services them. Is there other models I should consider? Obviously the 604N, but realistically, they would be outside my range for sure. Trying to stay under 11k bales, maybe 14k bales for silage models?

*New Holland/Case* BR7070, RB460, RB465. Just recently started researching these a little more. I pass a New Holland dealer everytime I go to my land, but they never have used ones. Parts/service should be easy, probably the 2nd most common baler in my area next to Deere. BR7070 model seems appealing especially if I can find a good one with under 10k bales. Some don't seem to come well equipped, with manual pickup rollers, and the cheaper utility models don't impress. Might go look at these in the next week.

https://www.tractorhouse.com/listings/farm-equipment/for-sale/31748887/2011-new-holland-br7070

They also have a Vermeer 604SM.

https://www.tractorhouse.com/listings/farm-equipment/for-sale/31961397/2013-vermeer-604sm

I don't consider these as HD (the NH Case 450/460/465 models), but if I could find one in good condition with under 10k bales in my range, they seem like they could work.

*Kubota*, BV4160 Prem or Silage, implements don't seem to be that popular around here, even though their tractors are. Have not done a lot of research, but not overly impressed with most of their hay equipment made by Vicon, Kverneland or whoever. I did come close to buying a Vicon made 9' cutter at the last auction though. I like them. This one does seem intriguing though. As best I can tell, it might be between some of the cheaper utility balers and the upper commercial lines?

https://www.tractorhouse.com/listings/farm-equipment/for-sale/183273293/2015-kubota-bv4160-prem?ST=Oklahoma%2cTexas&CTRY=USA bale count/price seem good?

So what am I missing, and what's missing from my list?


----------



## JD3430 (Jan 1, 2012)

Well one comment I would add as a NH baler owner: they are not as heavy duty as a Krone or McHale, I believe it's more than enough baler for what you are doing. 
I have run a BR7060 making 1,000-1,500 bales per year.
In all honesty, it has broken 5-6 times, but 4 of them were operator error. Really the only things that broke on the baler that were the fault of the baler were the computer box (could have been struck by lightning) and an actuator arm.
Both repairs together cost me ~$1,800. 
I think if you got a BR7xxx Silage Special, it would be more baler than you need, based on what I'm understanding about your operation.
These balers would easily make 2,000 bales per year. Just get a silage special and you'll have a nice, affordable, HD baler with easily available parts & service.


----------



## Trillium Farm (Dec 18, 2014)

*Kubota*, BV4160, implements don't seem to be that popular around here, even though their tractors are. Have not done a lot of research, but not overly impressed with most of their hay equipment made bu Vicon, Kverneland or whoever. I did com eclose to buying a Vicon made 9' cutter at the last auction though. I like them. This one does seem intriguing though. As best I can tell, it might be between some of the cheaper utility balers and the upper commercial lines?

https://www.tractorhouse.com/listings/farm-equipment/for-sale/183273293/2015-kubota-bv4160-prem?ST=Oklahoma%2cTexas&CTRY=USA bale count/price seem good?

So what am I missing, and what's missing from my list?

*I wouldn't be afraid of Kubota, Vicon has been in business in haymaking implements as very long time, also Kubota bought out the Gallignani Co. a few year ago, one of the best italian round baler manufacturers and between the two I'm sure they would have produced a good baler.*


----------



## Tx Jim (Jun 30, 2014)

Ray450

I personally dislike the JD rd balers(model 457/458/459) that will only make a 60''(5') tall bale.I think their hyd pressure system leaves a lot to be desired. Plus I make my bales 5.5' tall so to have less bales to haul


----------



## IH 1586 (Oct 16, 2014)

Tx Jim said:


> Ray450
> I personally dislike the JD rd balers(model 457/458/459) that will only make a 60''(5') tall bale.I think their hyd pressure system leaves a lot to be desired. Plus I make my bales 5.5' tall so to have less bales to haul


Curious what changes in the hydraulic system that makes tighter bales. Just looked at tension valve and they both have a 3500 psi valve in them.


----------



## Tx Jim (Jun 30, 2014)

I didn't state tighter bales. I don't like the fact that the smaller balers utilize the gate cylinders more for tension than their larger counterparts.

IIRC 469 has 2 gate cylinders & 2 tension cylinders with a pressure gauge with adjustable pressure valve while 459 has 2 hyd cylinders with no gauge & preset non adjustable pressure valve.


----------



## Ray450 (May 23, 2019)

The dealer with the Kubota got back with me. The more I research it, the more I think it might be a pretty good deal. Very low bales, pretty new, and while it is listed at a 4x5 baler, it shows to actually make up to a 65" bale. I really plan on probably just doing 4x5, but like the safety of being able to go a little bigger and/or not stressing it making 4x5. Any other thoughts on this baler? It's 4 hours from me, so if I went to look at it, it would only be if I was 90% sure I was getting it. The other dealer is much closer. It appears to have a automatic oil system, I like the wide belts with no big gaps, ike the idea of the Vermeer style bottom roller that takes a lot of weight off the belts, doesn't look overly complicated and doesn't have a mile of chains. Tires look small though, it looks like the pick-up would struggle with a tall windrow to me, (has a wide 79" pickup though). It's about a 6,000# baler made by Kverneland and is supposed to be a dry or silage capable European influenced baler. https://www.tractorhouse.com/listings/farm-equipment/for-sale/183273293/2015-kubota-bv4160-prem?ST=Oklahoma%2CTexas&CTRY=USA , I'm kind of assuming it's a mid level, somewhere between the economy/utility balers (rebels, 459E, RB450 ect) and the heavier commercial style Deere and Vermeers?


----------



## Trillium Farm (Dec 18, 2014)

I think that it probably is your best bet so far and a good baler to get your feet wet, so to speak.

Being the less used it's likely less prone to costly repairs and if you need higher capacity later on you can always trade it.


----------



## shamrockkidno2 (May 16, 2017)

before you buy you might want to go to Brinkley Auction in Idabel ,Ok, its not far from you. I bought all my hay equiptment there. They will have everthing from almost new to worn completely out. you can check out some of their stuff on the enternet. I bought a JD 459 silage special that had baled 1100 bales for $23000 ,they cost around $ 37000 new. Great baler. bought a slightly used Krone cutter, Krone Tedder and 12 wheel rake much much cheaper than new . All of the equiptment is in new condition almost. I think you should consider getting a tedder. you can bale a day earlier if you fluff and you gonna get hay wet sooner or later. All my equiptment cost about $40000.


----------



## JD3430 (Jan 1, 2012)

Ray450 said:


> The dealer with the Kubota got back with me. The more I research it, the more I think it might be a pretty good deal. Very low bales, pretty new, and while it is listed at a 4x5 baler, it shows to actually make up to a 65" bale. I really plan on probably just doing 4x5, but like the safety of being able to go a little bigger and/or not stressing it making 4x5. Any other thoughts on this baler? It's 4 hours from me, so if I went to look at it, it would only be if I was 90% sure I was getting it. The other dealer is much closer. It appears to have a automatic oil system, I like the wide belts with no big gaps, ike the idea of the Vermeer style bottom roller that takes a lot of weight off the belts, doesn't look overly complicated and doesn't have a mile of chains. Tires look small though, it looks like the pick-up would struggle with a tall windrow to me, (has a wide 79" pickup though). It's about a 6,000# baler made by Kverneland and is supposed to be a dry or silage capable European influenced baler. https://www.tractorhouse.com/listings/farm-equipment/for-sale/183273293/2015-kubota-bv4160-prem?ST=Oklahoma%2CTexas&CTRY=USA , I'm kind of assuming it's a mid level, somewhere between the economy/utility balers (rebels, 459E, RB450 ect) and the heavier commercial style Deere and Vermeers?


The baler sounds ok, but might not be as trustworthy as a legacy name baler. Also, Kubota is only a few years into the hay tools market and your dealer MIGHT be clueless on support and repairs compared to a NH, Deere, CaseIH, AGCO dealer. If you need service, will you be able to get service? Do the homework to be sure before you buy. Might be good to check to see how many dealers are nearby for support.

As has been said, balers are pretty complex. You'll need service at some point. Will that dealer come through?


----------



## Tx Jim (Jun 30, 2014)

JD3430 said:


> As has been said, balers are pretty complex. You'll need service at some point. Will that dealer come through?


May I ask what is complex about a rd baler? Granted I've never been around a silage model or one with internal knives.


----------



## JD3430 (Jan 1, 2012)

Tx Jim said:


> May I ask what is complex about a rd baler? Granted I've never been around a silage model or one with internal knives.


I think you're on the higher end of the round baler repairing ability curve.

No slight against the OP, but I get the feeling he may not be on your level of round baler repair capability.


----------



## Tx Jim (Jun 30, 2014)

I agree I probably have more experience repairing a rd baler than most but I'd still like to know what you & others consider ""complex about a rd baler"". I'm not looking for an argument just an answer.

Thanks,Jim


----------



## JD3430 (Jan 1, 2012)

Tx Jim said:


> I agree I probably have more experience repairing a rd baler than most but I'd still like to know what you & others consider ""complex about a rd baler"". I'm not looking for an argument just an answer.
> Thanks,Jim


Well, I guess I could give a dozen examples but here's a few

Balers are only attachment with sophisticated electronics and quite a bit of wiring compared to a disc mower, Tedder, rake, accumulator.
Balers have a cab mounted monitor with numerous areas that can show up as an error on the monitor. A fracture in the length of the wiring harness can lead to hours of downtime before it's found.
Balers have the most amount of sensors (Hobbs sensors, etc) that can go bad.
Balers have a net wrap cutting system and a net wrap roll brake that are pretty sensitive to being out of adjustment.
Balers have a half dozen chains and a dozen or so sprockets
Balers have most grease fittings
Balers have the most moving parts.

Now I'm not saying that is impossible to fix them, but they are the most complex, I'd say by a lot compared to the other hay tools.


----------



## IH 1586 (Oct 16, 2014)

JD3430 said:


> Well, I guess I could give a dozen examples but here's a few
> 
> Balers are only attachment with sophisticated electronics and quite a bit of wiring compared to a disc mower, Tedder, rake, accumulator.
> Balers have a cab mounted monitor with numerous areas that can show up as an error on the monitor. A fracture in the length of the wiring harness can lead to hours of downtime before it's found.
> ...


Yet I would rather repair a baler than mower or rake. This is based on a my experience with 458/459 JD balers.(15 years of running)

Everything you list short of the wiring are all out in the open and easily inspected. Monitor errors point directly to the problem resulting to quick easy fix 99% of the time. Winter maintenance making sure wire harnesses are secured goes a long way. (No issues)

Sensors are easy to check and replace. Owners manual gives test information. (Replaced a broken one, have yet to replace a malfunctioning one)

Net wrap, once I did Deere's work has worked good. Again owners manual adjustment+video. As for the brake, they claim the brake pad it to last couple thousand bales. I carry an extra and have yet to replace after 10,000 bales (one failure with netwrap belt, my fault, would have been an hour repair in field, fixed next day no hay loss)

Chains and sprockets out in the open easily inspected. (No issues that stopped me from baling)

Discbine: Everything lurks in gear box. Lose a cutterbar will be expensive and time consuming to fix. (Has not happened yet with a 30 year old discbine)

Rake: Broke a simple roll pin that is inside a rotor.(can't see it for inspection) Resulting in expensive and time consuming to fix. Now we pull arms periodically to replace them whether they need it or not.

The time to fix and/or replace 95% of what you have mentioned is negligible in comparison


----------



## JD3430 (Jan 1, 2012)

Agree I'd rather make a repair on a baler, too. What I'm saying is that a baler is more complex. More switches, wires, sensors, moving parts. I think it's a more frequent break-down threat than a discbine because of its complexity. 
If something is going to break on a baler, I would agree that usually it's a physically less stressful repair, but I'd bet they break down more than the other 3.


----------



## Tx Jim (Jun 30, 2014)

That's my point most operators would rather repair a rd baler vs a disc cutter bar/gearbox. IMHO excluding the monitor the wiring on rd baler isn't much more complicated than the wiring on a GN trailer unless person attempting the repair is color blind. I guess I should consider myself lucky again because I've baled over 150,000 bales without a monitor failing. Now I've probably jinxed myself!!! 

JD 469 rd baler that can make a 4X6 bale has 181 links of RC50,42 links of RC60H,222 links of RC80. I wonder how that compares to other brands??


----------



## JD3430 (Jan 1, 2012)

Then there's also this: let's say a baler and a discbine were equally reliable. I'd rather repair a discbine and miss a day of cutting than a baler and miss a day of baling
Another reason the OP should emphasize a strong baler that has good dealer support over a stronger discbine. 
I'd rather miss a day of cutting to rain than lose 20-30 acres of dry hay to rain.

In the end, we all infuse our personal experiences into these discussions. Although helpful, we all have different challenges.

I'm very lucky to get 4 dry days in a row, therefore to me, the baler being the most reliable is my personal point of emphasis


----------



## Tx Jim (Jun 30, 2014)

Which again I'll remind you that the OP's weather is going to be a lot closer to resembling my weather at about 100 miles from me than your weather.


----------



## JD3430 (Jan 1, 2012)

Good point. 
Farming, like politics, is "local"


----------



## Ray450 (May 23, 2019)

I made a cash offer of $13,500 and said I'd head that way, probably a good 10 hour round trip. I was turned down, but the counter didn't put us far apart on it, https://www.tractorh...,Texas&CTRY=USA .



shamrockkidno2 said:


> before you buy you might want to go to Brinkley Auction in Idabel ,Ok, its not far from you. *Yes, I monitor them every month and went to the last one. They had some Deere 469 but they looked pretty rough to me, you can't check them out and they only gave the bale count right before they auctioned them. One had obviously been on the side and had new side panels trying to cover it up, but it was obviously bent up. I'll probably go again this coming Friday if it looks like they might have something in my price range. *I bought all my hay equiptment there. They will have everthing from almost new to worn completely out. you can check out some of their stuff on the enternet. I bought a JD 459 silage special that had baled 1100 bales for $23000 ,they cost around $ 37000 new. Great baler. bought a slightly used Krone cutter, Krone Tedder and 12 wheel rake much much cheaper than new . All of the equiptment is in new condition almost. I think you should consider getting a tedder. *Id love to get one, but it's not in the budget now. I need to locate a baler, rake and cutter for now, I'm not sure any of my hay guys have had/used a tedder in the last 8 years, but I know there was a couple times they should have used one on windrows that got rained on. *you can bale a day earlier if you fluff and you gonna get hay wet sooner or later. All my equiptment cost about $40000.





JD3430 said:


> The baler sounds ok, but might not be as trustworthy as a legacy name baler. Also, Kubota is only a few years into the hay tools market and your dealer MIGHT be clueless on support and repairs compared to a NH, Deere, CaseIH, AGCO dealer. If you need service, will you be able to get service?* Local dealer says he can get parts and service them, but admitted his techs have very limited experience on them, and he doesn't stock almost any parts and has his doubts on the quick availability of some parts from Kubota. But he is also trying to get me to buy a Vermeer 5420 Rebel. He sells mostly Vermeer, and while I'd love to get a 604M or N, I can't find much good about the Rebel/Rancher lines. I have another Kubota close by, but I can't even get them to answer requests for quotes on tractors or implements. Being close to Dallas, there are several in the area, but for some reason, they are the least interested in talking with me. *Do the homework to be sure before you buy. Might be good to check to see how many dealers are nearby for support.
> 
> As has been said, balers are pretty complex. You'll need service at some point. Will that dealer come through?


As far as I can tell, the Kubota is maybe closer to the economy models than the more HD commercial lines, there's very little difference in the Kubota Economy and Prem line when I use the New Holland comparison tool, looks like a little better/wider pickup and more modern coverings. I like some things about the specs, but am unsure of others. Is the wider belts, but one fewer, a positive or negative (harder time finding replacements for 8" belts?) and sealed bearings, sounds good, but for the long haul I'd prefer a bank of grease fittings to hit? Are just 3 rollers better or worse than the other systems that typically use 5-6? The debate about which is more important baler/cutter is interesting, but not really that helpful. I need them both, and my budget is pretty much about $12k-$18k for a baler, but if it's closer to the low end, $12k-$14k, I might be able to afford a new 3pt 9' cutter or possibly a well used bigger trailed cutter, and if it's closer to $18k, I'd have to find a used 3pt cutter pretty cheap, $6k or under.


----------



## Trillium Farm (Dec 18, 2014)

Ray450 said:


> I made a cash offer of $13,500 and said I'd head that way, probably a good 10 hour round trip. I was turned down, but the counter didn't put us far apart on it, https://www.tractorh...,Texas&CTRY=USA .
> 
> *If it were me I'd re-think that offer, $1,500 (difference) prorated by the number of year you'll have it will come up to $100 a year. *


----------



## Tx Jim (Jun 30, 2014)

Ray450

I think from viewing schematic below a Kubota rd baler will have a lot more than 3 belt rollers. I counted 9 belt rollers. I noticed something odd while viewing Kubota BV4160 parts catalog in that the yr models have different catalogs making me think every yr model had changes in part #s due to what I would GUESS is improvements


----------



## Ray450 (May 23, 2019)

I sent two more messages a couple hours ago on a Deere 468 (didn't have bale count, so I'm guessing it's going to be very high), and a Massey/Heston 2946. Been doing research on it, any thoughts on it. Seems like a good baler, that usual sells pretty cheap in this area. Parts/service are probably a bigger concern than the Kubota. I of course have not heard back from either yet though.



Trillium Farm said:


> Ray450 said:
> 
> 
> > I made a cash offer of $13,500 and said I'd head that way, probably a good 10 hour round trip. I was turned down, but the counter didn't put us far apart on it, https://www.tractorh...,Texas&CTRY=USA .
> ...


* I guess your saying I should make the drive? And it's actually less of a difference than that now. I was mostly waiting to see what the Brinkley auction had, and still researching to see if it's a baler I'd be happy with. *



Tx Jim said:


> Ray450
> 
> I think from viewing schematic below a Kubota rd baler will have a lot more than 3 belt rollers. I counted 9 belt rollers. I noticed something odd while viewing Kubota BV4160 parts catalog in that the yr models have different catalogs making me think every yr model had changes in part #s due to what I would GUESS is improvements


Maybe it's just how each manufacturer counts them then. On the spec sheets, I think they just count bale forming rollers, but I really don't know the difference between any of the systems. Seems like some use rollers to take the weight of the bale and to get it started. I'm sure all the systems work fine, just not sure which is superior to the others. On a used baler, with a new operator, I like the idea of a system that claims to take stress off the belts/machine and help in roll start-up.


----------



## dvcochran (Oct 1, 2017)

IH 1586 said:


> Yet I would rather repair a baler than mower or rake. This is based on a my experience with 458/459 JD balers.(15 years of running)
> 
> Everything you list short of the wiring are all out in the open and easily inspected. Monitor errors point directly to the problem resulting to quick easy fix 99% of the time. Winter maintenance making sure wire harnesses are secured goes a long way. (No issues)
> 
> ...


Agree.

I would also mention the impending domino effect of failing mechanical parts inside a sealed housing (cutterbar). One gear or bearing fails sending debris into the next gear/bearing, into the next gear/bearing, etc... It is too often unseen and, in the event of using a cab tractor, often unheard before it is too late. Repairs can be far costlier on a disc mower (especially one without shear hubs or modules) than several repairs on a baler. I get the weather factor. But if it is that pressing, do you always keep a backup baler around? Not many people have that option.


----------



## clowers (Feb 11, 2011)

Ray,

Have you checked noonday auction outside of Tyler, Texas.


----------



## IH 1586 (Oct 16, 2014)

dvcochran said:


> Agree.
> 
> I would also mention the impending domino effect of failing mechanical parts inside a sealed housing (cutterbar). One gear or bearing fails sending debris into the next gear/bearing, into the next gear/bearing, etc... It is too often unseen and, in the event of using a cab tractor, often unheard before it is too late. Repairs can be far costlier on a disc mower (especially one without shear hubs or modules) than several repairs on a baler. I get the weather factor. But if it is that pressing, do you always keep a backup baler around? Not many people have that option.


That was supposed to be gearbox/cutterbar. Thank you


----------



## Tx Jim (Jun 30, 2014)

JD3430 said:


> Well, I guess I could give a dozen examples but here's a few
> 
> Balers are only attachment with sophisticated electronics and quite a bit of wiring compared to a disc mower, Tedder, rake, accumulator.
> Balers have a cab mounted monitor with numerous areas that can show up as an error on the monitor. A fracture in the length of the wiring harness can lead to hours of downtime before it's found.
> ...


Evidently I bale with a less complicated rd baler than you're accustomed to because I think the electronics on my baler are far less than complicated or complex but each to their own thoughts. Yes I have been utilizing/repairing farm equipment for many,many yrs. The last 2 balers have baled over 50,000 bales with very minimal problems. So what if a micro-switch fails just replace it & bale hay.

I'd still like to know for comparison how many links & size of chains utilized on other brands of rd balers.


----------



## JD3430 (Jan 1, 2012)

Tx Jim said:


> Evidently I bale with a less complicated rd baler than you're accustomed to because I think the electronics on my baler are far less than complicated or complex but each to their own thoughts. Yes I have been utilizing/repairing farm equipment for many,many yrs. The last 2 balers have baled over 50,000 bales with very minimal problems. So what if a micro-switch fails just replace it & bale hay.
> 
> I'd still like to know for comparison how many links & size of chains utilized on other brands of rd balers.


I believe the balers electronics are more complicated than a Tedder rake or discbine, since they have no electronics at all. (Some double rakes have them)

that's all I'm sayin!


----------



## Ray450 (May 23, 2019)

One more piece of equipment checked off the list, bought a 2011 New Holland BR7070 silage 4'x6' baler with 9,350 bales on it, and managed to get a grand closer to being back on budget. I pass a NH dealer on my way to my property, and there's plenty of them being used in this area, so parts and service shouldn't be a problem. Went ahead and picked up a new fire extinguisher and mount while I was there. They had the manuals for the baler and monitor, so I'll be reading up on it. It had one bad spot in one of the endless belts, so they said they would cut it out and patch in a new piece if I brought them the belt. As far as I can tell, she's ready to make bales, but I'll grease and oil everything up first. I meant to get a picture of the bad spot and see if it needs to be done now, or if I should just run it. Anything else I need to be thinking about, other than buying some net?

















I made a offer on a rake they had, but we didn't make a deal on it. It was in really rough shape, lots of welds, needs some more welds and some fabrication. I decided it was probably just too rough for me, and would be better off finding a much simpler, newer and better condition 10 wheel. I have lots of trees, obstacles and small shallow ditches to cross, and just think I'd be better off with something smaller?

















Hard to find anywhere on this this thing that isn't bent, welded, missing bolts, teeth, or has new bolts/parts mixed in.

So, now I need to get the baler set-up with my tractor and find a cutter and rake. Pretty sure I can find a nice/newer 10 or 12 wheel rake at a auction/locally in the next couple months for $3k-4K. I'm leaning towards a 9' or 10' 3pt mounted cutter, so I can get a very good condition used for $5k-$8k, and if not, even a new one for $11k-12K. I've researched the kubota, Kuhn/Deere, Krone and NH, and I like certain things about all four and really don't have a favorite buying used, condition will matter the most. If I can't find a really good used one, I'm leaning towards a new NH 9', it's the cheapest, best warranty, and I actually might like it's modular design the best. I'd love to get a trailed cutter, or MOCO style with flails, but I'm not sure it's in the budget. Even the ones in the $10k-$15k range seem pretty tired/used. I'm hoping to only spend another $10k on cutter and rake to get back pretty close to what I had told my wife I was going to spend on this adventure. Suggestions?


----------



## r82230 (Mar 1, 2016)

Ray450 said:


> I'm hoping to only spend another $10k on cutter and rake to get back pretty close to what I had told my wife I was going to spend on this adventure. Suggestions?


Don't tell wife if you go over budget.  Sorry, you asked for suggestions, it's the best I can come up with today. BTW, nice looking baler.

Larry


----------



## scout (Jan 14, 2015)

You looking for something like a Krone EC320 cutter?


----------



## clowers (Feb 11, 2011)

Scout, you have one for sale?


----------



## scout (Jan 14, 2015)

No. Saw one at Case/Kubota dealer in Paris, TX for about the price range. It's on their website.


----------



## Ray450 (May 23, 2019)

scout said:


> You looking for something like a Krone EC320 cutter?





scout said:


> No. Saw one at Case/Kubota dealer in Paris, TX for about the price range. It's on their website.


Yes, I would consider A Krone, they seem very well built, there seems to be a lot of their cutters used in the area, and I like their system of using a shear pin and the turtle spins up and out of the way if you hit something. And then it just uses another pin to get going again. I'd have to check to see how hard it would be to get parts in my area, and I'd want one in really good condition. I'll probably end up getting a Kuhn/Deere or NH though, just because I know I have a lot of dealer support and readily available parts for them. I assume your talking about this, https://parisfarmandranch.com/equipment/used-equipment/2015-krone-ec320-150008396448 . It's actually just a couple miles from where I bought the baler. Seems a little expensive to me. At that price, I think I'd just spend a couple grand more and get a new new holland 9' cutter with 3 year warranty and it's the closest dealer to me, (although that dealer was almost a grand more on their new cutter than one several hours away, but they might match if I showed up willing to buy right then). I'll probably spend what time I have this weekend getting my old barn set-up for the new baler, I think it's 1"-2" too tall to fit in right now, and I want to get the monitor set-up. Then I might go to some auctions in Feb and see if I get lucky and find something good. I might go look at these, they are all close. https://www.tractorhouse.com/listings/farm-equipment/for-sale/154670345/2011-krone-ec3200?ST=texas&CTRY=usa

https://www.tractorhouse.com/listings/farm-equipment/for-sale/190714473/2017-kuhn-gmd310?ST=texas&CTRY=usa https://www.tractorhouse.com/listings/farm-equipment/for-sale/190626661/john-deere-285

Trying to mainly decide if I want a mounted style in 9' (usually a little cheaper, easier to transport) or a 10' model (really tall in transport position, but would get another 1' of cut on every pass, might be a little harder to operate around obstacles and ditches) or a wheeled trailed cutter, that would be more expensive, a little more complicated and have tires that will pick up plenty of honey locust thorns in my bottom areas.


----------



## r82230 (Mar 1, 2016)

Ray450 said:


> I'll probably spend what time I have this weekend getting my old barn set-up for the new baler, I think it's 1"-2" too tall to fit in right now, and I want to get the monitor set-up.


1' or 2", just let a little air out of the tires...&#8230;&#8230;. , go ahead and slap me, I got it coming.

Larry


----------



## chevytaHOE5674 (Mar 14, 2015)

I had my BR7070 in a dirt floor barn before this winter and to make it fit I dug out the floor and the approach to squeeze it inside.


----------



## Ray450 (May 23, 2019)

Pic of the old barn about 7 years ago, built a long time ago. I fixed the door on one end to keep my Massey in it, but the other side had been closed in by trees with the door off the hinges for a very long time. I rebuilt the top of the header and raised it as much as I could a week ago, cut down the trees in front of it and rebuilt the top of the door and put the slider wheels back on. Remounted the rack and opened the other end door for the first time in I'm guessing 15-20 years. I did a quick measurement to the ground and it was about 113", the manual claims the BR7070 with the tires that I think are on it, is a inch and a half taller. So yea, I'm pretty sure I can just dig out a few inches with the CTL and get it in there. It was late and raining when I got back, so I have not even had a chance to unload it from the trailer.


----------



## JD3430 (Jan 1, 2012)

chevytaHOE5674 said:


> I had my BR7070 in a dirt floor barn before this winter and to make it fit I dug out the floor and the approach to squeeze it inside.


I'll SEE you a dug out floor,,,,,,and RAISE you some siding cut from the top edge of the door opening to fit my Tedder inside.


----------



## dvcochran (Oct 1, 2017)

Ray450 said:


> Yes, I would consider A Krone, they seem very well built, there seems to be a lot of their cutters used in the area, and I like their system of using a shear pin and the turtle spins up and out of the way if you hit something. And then it just uses another pin to get going again. I'd have to check to see how hard it would be to get parts in my area, and I'd want one in really good condition. I'll probably end up getting a Kuhn/Deere or NH though, just because I know I have a lot of dealer support and readily available parts for them. I assume your talking about this, https://parisfarmandranch.com/equipment/used-equipment/2015-krone-ec320-150008396448 . It's actually just a couple miles from where I bought the baler. Seems a little expensive to me. At that price, I think I'd just spend a couple grand more and get a new new holland 9' cutter with 3 year warranty and it's the closest dealer to me, (although that dealer was almost a grand more on their new cutter than one several hours away, but they might match if I showed up willing to buy right then). I'll probably spend what time I have this weekend getting my old barn set-up for the new baler, I think it's 1"-2" too tall to fit in right now, and I want to get the monitor set-up. Then I might go to some auctions in Feb and see if I get lucky and find something good. I might go look at these, they are all close. https://www.tractorhouse.com/listings/farm-equipment/for-sale/154670345/2011-krone-ec3200?ST=texas&CTRY=usa
> 
> https://www.tractorhouse.com/listings/farm-equipment/for-sale/190714473/2017-kuhn-gmd310?ST=texas&CTRY=usa https://www.tractorhouse.com/listings/farm-equipment/for-sale/190626661/john-deere-285
> 
> Trying to mainly decide if I want a mounted style in 9' (usually a little cheaper, easier to transport) or a 10' model (really tall in transport position, but would get another 1' of cut on every pass, might be a little harder to operate around obstacles and ditches) or a wheeled trailed cutter, that would be more expensive, a little more complicated and have tires that will pick up plenty of honey locust thorns in my bottom areas.


The Krone and the JD 285 seem high to me. The Kuhn sounds about right pricewise (maybe even low), depending on its condition. I run a 2016 JD R310 (which is a Kuhn painted green). It has been a very good mower and takes less horsepower as my old 9' Krone did.

My 2 cents but I would not pay for a trailing mower without a conditioner. I have a NH 7330 flail that has done very well and the module cutters bar is pretty easy/affordable to replace a module.


----------



## Ray450 (May 23, 2019)

dvcochran said:


> The Krone and the JD 285 seem high to me. The Kuhn sounds about right pricewise (maybe even low), depending on its condition.


Thanks, I was hoping more would chime in on the cutter models listed above. I might go look at them tomorrow and/or next week. I spent yesterday unloading the NH baler, running the wires and hooking it up to my tractor, greasing, oiling and giving it a good look over. I had to make a mount for the monitor and left some additional holes in case I want to move it a little.









I need to take off some of the Pick-up guards and work on them, and replace a couple pick-up tines. There's a bad spot in a endless belt I saw when I was doing the last inspection before buying it. Here is a pic, since there is fairly significant damage to the inside structure, I assume it needs to be fixed? I'm guessing the belt stopped for some reason and the roller burned thru in that spot. Dealer agreed to repair if I brought it to him.









The Krone 3pt mounted cutter is just a couple miles from that dealer, so I might go look at the EC320 while I'm there. At $8,800 it seems pretty high to me, but it is probably my favorite mounted unit, I also like the 3200 trailed one as well. for rough fields, lots of obstacles, would the trailed version be worth blowing the budget and spending a couple grand more?

I think I'm going to replace a couple chains, mainly the smaller lower left side, I believe it drives the pickup. It's in really bad condition. I don't think it ever got oiled because of where it is behind a bolt-on cover, it was so loose I'm surprised it stayed on. It could easily be removed without backing off the tensioner. It's a #50 chain, which seems to be the exact dimensions of 520 or 530 motorcycle chains. I've raced a very long time, and only use O-ring or X-ring chains because they last much longer in extreme conditions. Is there any reason why I can't use one of these chains? I have plenty of them lying around. I also found one gear that seemed bad, it was one of two left side chain (RC80) tensioners. Surprisingly to me, they are plastic gears, so I'm assuming there's not a lot of stress on them. Parts diagram shows they have been superseded by steel gears at some point and the plastic ones are no longer available. So my question is, do the plastic ones have serviceable bearings, or is the bearings shown just for the steel ones? I guess I just need to pull it and see.

Still have to dig out about 3" of dirt to get her in my old barn, but it was raining and I might just keep her where she is until I get it ready. Tires are 18L-16.1 10 ply tires, and the specs listed were almost exact, plus I want a couple inches to spare.

So on the cutters, 9' mounted, or 10' mounted, or 10' trailed, or 10' trailed with tine conditioning? Price goes up the further I go to the right.


----------



## Gearclash (Nov 25, 2010)

Hard to say what exactly happened to that belt. I would trim off the "hangnails" and bevel back that damage on the side of the belt so it can't hook things and see what happens. It looks like the plies are mostly undamaged and that is the main thing.

That 50 chain you are looking at is almost certainly the pickup drive chain and yes I would highly recommend replacing it with a 530 RX ring chain. That is a problem chain and installing a premium RX ring chain and replacing the nylon tensioner with a real idler will put an end to the problems.

If you have the monitor and tractor harness installed, I would recommend hooking it up to the baler and testing the net wrap cycle. With the tractor shut off, and the net door of the baler open, power up the monitor. When the system is ready, push and hold the "Wrap" button until the monitor gives the long beep that signals the start of the wrapping process. Observe the duckbill thru the front of the baler and make sure it inserts fully and retracts properly. The monitor will start beeping at you and show an error because the net roll did not start moving. Push "Clear" to clear the error. I would do this several times. The main point of doing this is to be sure there is a good electrical connection between the tractor battery and the baler. A poor power is the source of many net system problems.

Another pre season thing to check is net knife sharpness. If there is net roll in the baler currently, observe how ragged the net tail is that is protruding out of the duckbill. If it is very ragged the knives should be sharpened. If the knife edge is rusted it will most likely need to be sharpened.


----------



## KS John (Aug 6, 2018)

So on the cutters, 9' mounted, or 10' mounted, or 10' trailed, or 10' trailed with tine conditioning? Price goes up the further I go to the right.

IMHO if you are mowing native grass hay, the extra expense of the conditioner is not warranted. In hay season my "normal" condition is mow one day, rake the next afternoon (if not earlier) and bale the third morning with no conditioning.


----------



## dvcochran (Oct 1, 2017)

KS John said:


> So on the cutters, 9' mounted, or 10' mounted, or 10' trailed, or 10' trailed with tine conditioning? Price goes up the further I go to the right.
> 
> IMHO if you are mowing native grass hay, the extra expense of the conditioner is not warranted. In hay season my "normal" condition is mow one day, rake the next afternoon (if not earlier) and bale the third morning with no conditioning.


We typically cannot do that in TN, especially on 1st cutting. Ocassionally on a thin 2nd or 3rd cut. From my experience a conditioner shortens dry time by a day. We usually have to tedder 1st cut as well. This is on rounds. Some guys around here will tedder square bale hay 2 or 3 times.


----------



## Ray450 (May 23, 2019)

I think I'm leaning towards a mounted 10' cutter, although if I find a good deal I'd jump on a trailed and/or or MoCo with flails. I've had three Hay guys on my property, none used a conditioner that I know of, two used trailed 10', one a 9' mounted. Neighbor has 100s of acres, tractors of every size, and seems to have every piece of farm equipment he wants, and uses a mounted non-conditioned. With our Texas heat, we usually get plenty of very hot, dry, sunny days. I'll probably split up the property in two parts, cutting each at different times. The front/top area about 50 acres, (drains well, very good grass and will probably get cut 2-4 times)

















and the back 50, (floodplain, rough, grows thick, have to cut later once it finally dries, but can't wait too long or ragweed takes over, honey locust trees scattered about, probably only gets cut 1 time, twice in some spots) about 50 acres.

























So on each section, I'll probably spend a couple days mowing, then a day raking, and won't start baling until at least the 4th day.

I really like the Krone EC mounted units, and called to go look at the one mentioned above, but it has already been sold. They just don't come up often around here. The Krone 3200 seems really nice, just not sure I want to spend that much money. There is a NH 6830 trailed mower that sounds like a decent deal, and I might go look at the Kuhn and JD 10' mounted units that are not too far off tomorrow, or Monday. I went thru my emails, and it was the Kubota (Vicon) 9' that was the cheapest new. The Kuhn and NH are about the same. They all have their pros/cons, but after all said and done, I think condition is going to matter to me the most if I buy used. If I get new, I can only afford a new 9' mounted cutter. I'm leaning towards a 10' mounted in very good condition for $6-$8k, but there isn't many out there. Any thoughts on which would be better for me (new to this), my property, and my 6105E, a 9' or 10' mounted? Since the mounted ones ride/hit the ground, they seem to only come up for sale once they are really beat up,


----------



## Trillium Farm (Dec 18, 2014)

If you are cutting legumes, alfalfa, clover, birdsfoot trefoil etc you'll need a conditioner with rolls no matter where you live, even in TX, otherwise the leaves will dry up and fall off by the time the stems are ready.

What you *may not need *is a tedder. I don't know what your neighbours grow and if grasses you absolutely don't need a conditioner, or perhaps in some cases only one with flails.


----------



## scout (Jan 14, 2015)

I live close to you. We use conditioners, but we also have a lot of alfalfa so they're needed. You really don't need a conditioner with the grass you're cutting. The only problem I see is the type of summers we've had the last two years; staying cooler and wetter in the early part of the summer and then really humid when it does get hot. A conditioner would be helpful with the Johnson grass if you cut it before it heads out. After heading, the stems are hollow so dry down will be fast. Another problem you'll have is the soil moisture wicking into the windrows. If you don't use a tedder, you may need to rake and then wait a day to get the stuff that's been laying on the bottom time to dry.

Growing up, we had two cutters. A pull type with a conditioner for hay grazer and then a mounted without for Bermuda and other grasses.

Keep a scraper handy. You'll be stopping often to clean the mud (I'm assuming you live on blackland) and ant mounds off the cutter bar.


----------



## Ray450 (May 23, 2019)

Added last two pieces of equipment for now. Bought a Krone EC3200 and a Kelderman 10 wheel rake. I went and looked at 3 cutters at the same place, a Vicon 10' mounted and a JD 285 10' mounted and the Krone. The two mounted units just looked to rough to me for consideration, the Krone seemed like it was in really good condition. Some of that may just be because the mounted ones ride on the ground and get beat up more than the trailed, which makes me think that's one reason I might be better off with the trailed. I've done a lot of research on the different cutter bar designs and I was hoping to find a Krone, there just have not been a lot in my area. I wanted a EC series, the cutter bars seem very robust with replaceable parts where others seem to end up getting welded a lot (although they all look great now), I like the shear protection and buying a replacement pin rather than a hub assembly, I like the large slower spinning gears, lack of belts, quick change blades, 2-point connection with gearbox that should allow a lot of maneuverability, and the overall build quality they seem to have. I printed off the owners manual and parts lists, and hopefully won't need to order any parts other than some blades and a few pins, because parts/cost/availability is where the Krone does scare me a little. They hooked both up, ran both and as far as I could tell, the Krone ran great and very smoothly. They basically threw the rake in to make the deal happen, so I only went a grand over my cutter/rake budget. I have not done as much research yet on rakes, knew nothing about Kelderman rakes, and while the rake is probably my roughest piece of equipment, I assume it will rake. Because I got the rake so cheap, I was able to spend a little more on the cutter.

























Now I just have to get everything greased up and ready for the season, hopefully I'll get to test everything out in a small test area in a few months.

JD 6105E was nice, great to have a tractor that cranks right up, hooked some chains to the cutter's marked lift points, and it picked it up off the trailer like it was nothing. I was a little disappointed when I realized the wheels barely fit on the trailer, and would not have hit the ramps, or I would have just pulled it off. But I doub't I almost ever need to take it further than what I can just haul with the tractor. After all said and done, I went about $3k over budget. Wife ain't happy, but she rarely is. I actually hit the budget on the hay equipment, baler, rake and cutter for right at $25k, and went $2.5k over on the tractor, but I got more tractor than I originally though I could get. It's newer, bigger, has a year of warranty left, and has at least 400-1000 hours less on it than what I thought I'd end up getting, so I'm good with it.


----------



## dvcochran (Oct 1, 2017)

Ray450 said:


> Added last two pieces of equipment for now. Bought a Krone EC3200 and a Kelderman 10 wheel rake. I went and looked at 3 cutters at the same place, a Vicon 10' mounted and a JD 285 10' mounted and the Krone. The two mounted units just looked to rough to me for consideration, the Krone seemed like it was in really good condition. Some of that may just be because the mounted ones ride on the ground and get beat up more than the trailed, which makes me think that's one reason I might be better off with the trailed. I've done a lot of research on the different cutter bar designs and I was hoping to find a Krone, there just have not been a lot in my area. I wanted a EC series, the cutter bars seem very robust with replaceable parts where others seem to end up getting welded a lot (although they all look great now), I like the shear protection and buying a replacement pin rather than a hub assembly, I like the large slower spinning gears, lack of belts, quick change blades, 2-point connection with gearbox that should allow a lot of maneuverability, and the overall build quality they seem to have. I printed off the owners manual and parts lists, and hopefully won't need to order any parts other than some blades and a few pins, because parts/cost/availability is where the Krone does scare me a little. They hooked both up, ran both and as far as I could tell, the Krone ran great and very smoothly. They basically threw the rake in to make the deal happen, so I only went a grand over my cutter/rake budget. I have not done as much research yet on rakes, knew nothing about Kelderman rakes, and while the rake is probably my roughest piece of equipment, I assume it will rake. Because I got the rake so cheap, I was able to spend a little more on the cutter.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Looks like you came out pretty good. Make sure all the teeth are on the wheels and you will likely need to replace a few pivot pins and the rake will get you by for a year or two. The "problem" with the Kelderman style is that they are really slow on the raise/lower and not all that hardy.

I am biased but feel you will be very happy with the Krone.


----------



## Ray450 (May 23, 2019)

Update. I cut, raked and baled a couple acres just to test the equipment before I try to start cutting big area in the next couple weeks. Not everything went great, but I finally made a whopping 6 bales.

Krone disc cutter- maybe not as great a deal as I thought, found some severe wear hidden under some washers on the main pivot in the middle. The pin was a aftermarket pin, not the standard set-up, so probably should have seen that and given it more attention. Both sides were egg shaped, one side a good size crack all the way through. I cleaned it up and welded some collars on to add strength. I'm not a great welder by any stretch, but it seems to work now.

























The PTO shaft had also been cut too short for my tractor, only allowing about 2 1/2" over lap on the start shaped German (and not found locally) shaft. One side was only about 10" long. Probably going to replace the shaft with a aftermarket unit, that will be about $500 cheaper than the Krone. For now, I'm using a PTO shaft extender to get another 5" of overlap, not quite to specs, but should work fine?

Deere 6105E-  getting used to it, it's a lot bigger than I'm used to, but I think I'll really be happy I got the hi/low splitter (24 gears). Unfortunately, I already put a 7" gash in one of the back tires, don't want to even say how. I ended up buying a Alliance (says Galaxy) radial of the same size suggested by local tire shop. Seems to have a heavier sidewall, but is a good 1" narrower in tread, and seems a little shorter, but didn't notice any drivability issues. Titans could not be located.









Changed it myself, not an easy job. Getting bead to set was the most difficult part. Straps in the center wouldn't cut it, and ended up having to use starter fluid. It worked fine several times, but would cool down and suck the tire back to center and off the seal before I could get any air pressure in it. Finally removed the valve stem and made a fitting to be able to attach my air hose up directly with a Q/A, and got it to set after first attempt with starter fluid. Probably should have had the tire shop do it, but I figure I need to get it down. Having a skidsteer helped a lot.

Kelderman rake - no issues so far, but I'm a little worried how it will do in the back with really thick grass, I had one area of thick grass and it started wanting to push the hay and stop the wheels.

N/H BR7070 Baler- greased everything, replaced all pickup tines that were missing, both P/U chains with o-rings, one new guard (plastic) and welded broken tab, replaced several plastic idler gears with steel, oiled chains, and checked all specs as best I could figure out from the manual. Going to just run that one bad belt and see how it lasts, although I did trim it up. Hooked it up no problem, new net went in fine, and it seemed to run/sound fine. First time to ever operate a baler of any kind. Baler stayed in alarm the whole time. Left side bale size sensor was stuck all the way in, and the tailgate sensor thought the tailgate was open about half the time. Kept having to clear out the alarm, and dumped a full, un-netted bale once. That was a mess, pulled it out by hand and unrolled it by hand in about 100', then I jammed the pick-up tryinmg to pick it back up and got to pull that out. First bale had a small blow-out (I assume because new net), other 5 all seemed really solid (maybe too solid) and well shaped, net cut great. Monitor was set at 60", but measured short of that by 3"-4" , I changed it to 68" for the next attempt. Big learning day, I think I fixed both sensors and will have a smoother run next time.


----------



## r82230 (Mar 1, 2016)

Ray,

Looking good, you're the man to tackle rear tires, without a coach the first time.

I've have to admit I have done the dump an un-wrapped bale (maybe even more than once ). Real pain, I have also admit to plugging up the pick-up. Perhaps more than once again, now have a old fashioned hay hook in the cab, in case the idiot operator does it again. 

As far as welding I'm a loooonnnng way from being very proficient at it, but I'd say it appears to possible be to low amperage (too cold), so you weren't getting a good 'puddle' or wrong type of stick or you were jumping in and out welding. A good friend of mine, that welded for a living, would look at my welds that looked like that and say "I didn't see any chickens around here, where did that chicken s*** come from". Maybe someone MUCH more versed on the subject will correct me, before you follow my advice. 

Larry


----------



## Gearclash (Nov 25, 2010)

A split in the net is usually a sign that the the bale is over filled in that area of the bale width. To prevent that, either correct the windrow shape (ideally needs to be flat and the same width as the bale chamber) or refine your driving technique to fill the chamber more uniformly (if you can't achieve the chamber width windrow) or reduce the chamber pressure, or put more wrap on.

Do you have both manuals for your baler? If so, there is a section in the Bale Command book to check that all the sensors are functioning properly. The bale shape sensor linkages can stick, also the sensor itself can get sticky and not return all the way to the low reading.


----------



## Aaroncboo (Sep 21, 2014)

The fact that you dont want to say how you put that gash in the tire makes me want to know more...


----------



## Ray450 (May 23, 2019)

r82230 said:


> Ray,
> 
> Looking good, you're the man to tackle rear tires, without a coach the first time.
> 
> ...


Thanks, I've actually done smaller tractor tires before, and lots of bib mousse solid foam tubes in M/C tires, other than setting the bead, bib mousses are probably still harder. My vision sucks, was using my mig welder and could've sworn I was doing better. I can re-do it if it looks like it's going to fail. Back side was glowing red good like I was getting Ok penetration, but yea, doesn't look very good in pic.

A split in the net is usually a sign that the the bale is over filled in that area of the bale width. To prevent that, either correct the windrow shape (ideally needs to be flat and the same width as the bale chamber) or refine your driving technique to fill the chamber more uniformly (if you can't achieve the chamber width windrow) or reduce the chamber pressure, or put more wrap on.

Do you have both manuals for your baler? If so, there is a section in the Bale Command book to check that all the sensors are functioning properly. The bale shape sensor linkages can stick, also the sensor itself can get sticky and not return all the way to the low reading.

It was the first bale, and the sensor was apparently stuck out, so I kept trying to fill on that side. Apparently the sensor finally got pushed in and never moved again, because it always the read left side almost full. When I got to lock the tailgate and pull the unwrapped bale out, I was able to confirm the right side worked great and the left side would not move. After I was finished, I removed it and worked it a lot with WD-40 and it loosened up a lot, but not as well as the other side. It seemed like it was the actual sensor more so that the linkage.



Aaroncboo said:


> The fact that you dont want to say how you put that gash in the tire makes me want to know more...


Lets just say it involved a hay spear and stupidity. I can't afford to be this stupid and would fire myself if I had the authority.


----------



## Aaroncboo (Sep 21, 2014)

It happens. You shouldn't feel stupid or if you insist on it I'll join your Club. I came home from work one day jumped out of my truck immediately jumped on the tractor with the 3-point spear started it and backed directly into my truck but I just parked 10 seconds earlier. We're all stupid to a degree...how far depends on us... Lol


----------



## dvcochran (Oct 1, 2017)

Ray450 said:


> Update. I cut, raked and baled a couple acres just to test the equipment before I try to start cutting big area in the next couple weeks. Not everything went great, but I finally made a whopping 6 bales.
> 
> Krone disc cutter- maybe not as great a deal as I thought, found some severe wear hidden under some washers on the main pivot in the middle. The pin was a aftermarket pin, not the standard set-up, so probably should have seen that and given it more attention. Both sides were egg shaped, one side a good size crack all the way through. I cleaned it up and welded some collars on to add strength. I'm not a great welder by any stretch, but it seems to work now.
> 
> ...


I would say the bushings you welded are stronger than the original. I have bushed both sides of a plate like that on heavy equipment. I have had three Krone's in the past. They are really good machines but like anything else, when they get enough age on them they can be problematic.

In my experience with wheel rakes the two biggest things are to make sure all the teeth are there with good turning wheels and as much speed as possible on heavy hay. Are you making the windrows as wide as you baler with accept? Do you have a wide pickup or gathering wheels?

There is definitely a learning curve on any baler, new or used. Were you able to clear/fix the switch issues? On a Vermeer baler if the belts have been cut off the bale size will be off. Did setting the monitor to 68" make a 60" bale?


----------



## Ray450 (May 23, 2019)

dvcochran said:


> I would say the bushings you welded are stronger than the original. I have bushed both sides of a plate like that on heavy equipment. I have had three Krone's in the past. They are really good machines but like anything else, when they get enough age on them they can be problematic.
> 
> In my experience with wheel rakes the two biggest things are to make sure all the teeth are there with good turning wheels and as much speed as possible on heavy hay. Are you making the windrows as wide as you baler with accept? Do you have a wide pickup or gathering wheels?
> 
> ...


----------



## chevytaHOE5674 (Mar 14, 2015)

There is an offset adjustment procedure outlined in the manual for making a bale measuring it and then setting the monitor accordingly.

If selling hay I make 4x5s. Most customers think a bale is a bale and will pay nearly the same for 4x5s as 4x5.5s. Also customers with smaller equipment may have trouble with the 5.5 foot bales.


----------



## Ray450 (May 23, 2019)

Finished about 30-35 acres, got just over 100 bales. Bale size sensor seems to be working now, tailgate sensor still occasionally not making good contact and causing alarms to go off. I'll have to elongate the holes to get it any closer like Mike10 has in his post. There wasn't much adjustment for me to move it any closer. Still jammed the pick-up a couple times, dumped a unwrapped bale again, blew out a rake tire (went ahead and replaced both cracked up 195/65r14 car tires with two used 205/65r14 trailer tires, little taller but should work fine), but overall was starting to get used to the equipment and what speeds seemed to work best. I had a couple bales not wrap good, I think I need to remove and sharpen the knives. Once it wrapped a lot of net around one of the lower rollers, and there seems to be a lot of ragged netting left behind under the duckbill, but after cutting and clearing it out, it went back to wrapping good. I think some of my recent Hog bomb holes that left behind some loose clogs of clay gernades may have been the cause of some of my issues. I also learned I need to be better at raking and stop wasting so much time circling trees. Still learning a lot every time I go out, like I've learned my vision is too poor, and I'm not near experienced enough yet, especially with all this new-to-me equipment to be working past dark. I gave up pretty quick trying to work with lights (trying to get the last 4-5 acres done knowing there was a 30% chance of rain the next morning). Fortunately, we only got a very lite shower and by the end of the next day I was able to finish up. For most of the hay, I cut it, let it lay about a day in 80-90 degree weather, raked it, and it lay another day before baling. Monitor was reset at 64", bales seem to measure that in width, about 58"-60" in height.

































I already have most of this hay sold, weather permitting I'll be loading up most of it this weekend. Thinking about cutting another small area, maybe about 15-20 acres Sat morning. I have another 3 day window, but temps are only going to be in the 70s as highs, so I'm not sure I have enough drying time before baling.


----------



## Ray450 (May 23, 2019)

Finished about 100 acres, maybe a little more. Ended up with 304 bales. Baler worked well, cutter gave me more issues than I would have liked. I ended up rebuilding the PTO clutch twice due to burning out the 2 friction disks. I've sold 164 bales so far, delivering almost 1/2 of those. Seemed like very heavy loads, so I took a slight detour to weigh before and after at some certified scales on my last load this weekend. I had 16 bales loaded, and after doing the math, my 4x5 bales (baler actually set at 64"), weighed in at a hair over 1,100 pounds each. Bales had been baled just a week before, but were good and dry after spending 3 days in 95 degree temps drying after cutting, then raked, and then one more day drying before baling. I wanted to make sure no one accused me of making small bales, but I also wanted to make sure I could get 6 rows on my 32' trailer. My trailer has the "dozer package" with a steel box section to support the ramps when down. They work good and securing bales. I easily get 6 rows on. I had delivered one run of 20, but it felt too heavy to me, so I wanted to weigh them. I had guessed they were closer to 900#, but that was just more of a guess than anything. My trailer is a tandem dual with 12k axles, and I keep all deliveries within a hour of me. I think I'll make 18 my max, 16 or 17 until I confirm the roads are good and the entry is good. I've been amazed how many people call and don't have a way to unload. I might back the setting down a 2"-4" next year.









I discovered that the crawdads build their mounds up, and even though the top of the ground is dry, the little crawdad mounds are soft, get picked up, stick on the rollers, the net then sticks to them and rips strips of netting off your bales. I also learned that a 55 gallon barrel of diesel with a cheap harbor freight pump works much better than 5 gallon cans that don't last long.


----------

