# MF 1135 blowing off antifreeze



## CowboyRam (Dec 13, 2015)

We have been trying to figure out why our MF 1135 is blowing off antifreeze. At first we thought that we had a bad hose, so we replaced the top hoses. Then we took out the radiator and had it checked; it is fine. It seems to blow off during a hard pull. I am at wits end, don't know what else it could be. The engine never got hot. Any ideas?

JR


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## BWfarms (Aug 3, 2015)

Could be as simple as Radiator Cap seal is bad. Worst case is a cracked head, leave cap off and fire it up, look for bubbles. Hopefully it's just a bad cap.


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## CowboyRam (Dec 13, 2015)

After I get everything back together tomorrow I will have to check that. So If I see bubbles, I guess that would mean I have a cracked head.


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## BWfarms (Aug 3, 2015)

The air bubbles are not a guarantee for cracked head or bad seal for the matter but it will get you going it right direction. I recommend hooking a radiator pressure tester to test for leak down. White smoke and possibly contaminated oil (green milky) are also signs of cracked head or water pump seal is bad. Sometimes leaks are so minor that it's only noticed under load.


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## mlappin (Jun 25, 2009)

CowboyRam said:


> After I get everything back together tomorrow I will have to check that. So If I see bubbles, I guess that would mean I have a cracked head.


Cracked head, faulty head gasket, pitted liner, I've dealt with em all from either having bubbles in the antifreeze or antifreeze in the oil.


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## CowboyRam (Dec 13, 2015)

The radiator guy did check it, and supposedly he did check it under pressure. I am not too sure of his skill, I don't think they are making any money fixing radiators. We might take to a shop in Lander.


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## BWfarms (Aug 3, 2015)

The leak down test has to been done with the entire system intact. Since you had the radiator out and solo tested it, you've eliminated that part.


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## Wethay (Jul 17, 2015)

It maybe that the engine producing that extra heat while under more load raises the system pressure just enough to cause the coolant to find it's way out. You said "blowing off", do you know where the coolant is going? Is it just missing, you can see it leaking or is it spurting out the radiator cap? Internal engine leaks, cylinder liner, head, head gasket sometimes only leak when the engine is working hard. I fought a tractor overheating problem until I talked to the operator instead of his boss and found that everything was fine until working hard it would blow coolant out of the radiator cap, without seeming to get hot. A new head gasket cured that one.


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## slowzuki (Mar 8, 2011)

Yeah if blowing coolant when engine cold but under high load it is likely combustion gases getting into coolant.


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## SCtrailrider (May 1, 2016)

Their are test strips that you dip into the coolant that will detect the gasses caused by a blown gasket & such...


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## CowboyRam (Dec 13, 2015)

SCtrailrider said:


> Their are test strips that you dip into the coolant that will detect the gasses caused by a blown gasket & such...


 Do you know where I can get these test strips.


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## SCtrailrider (May 1, 2016)

Most parts stores sell them, I can't remember the name of them right off... they detect hydrocarbon in the water from a blown head gasket..


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## SCtrailrider (May 1, 2016)

I found this...

http://www.blocktester.com/index.htm

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/WIX0/24107/N0452.oap

https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/FIL4106


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## CowboyRam (Dec 13, 2015)

We we had the radiator tested by someone else, and there is nothing wrong with it. The cap was bad, so we replaced the cap. Still getting antifreeze loss. I am starting to think that we either have cracked head or a blown head gasket. Now we need to figure out if we want to trade the tractor, or fix it; it does have somewhere near 7500 hours on it.


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## kurt1981 (Apr 18, 2017)

if it runs good and drive train is good just get the heads re worked and put a head gasket on it. The next old tractor you buy could have the same problem


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## CowboyRam (Dec 13, 2015)

kurt1981 said:


> if it runs good and drive train is good just get the heads re worked and put a head gasket on it. The next old tractor you buy could have the same problem


That is what we decided to do. We can't justify a new, or newer tractor. The tractor starts good, and runs good even with over 7000 hours on it. The hydraulics are starting to get a bit week, but other than that it is a good tractor. I just seen a tractor of that same model sell on Auctiontime for $16000 the other day, and it did not have a loader on it. Dad gave $7000 for his ten years ago.


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