# General Tractor Help



## MyDaughtersPony (Jun 12, 2016)

I am doing some window shopping if you will; and I need home help. Here is what I know... I like New Holland. Let's assume $10,000-$12,000 budget. I am looking for something that could potentially power a small square baler (once I upgrade) and that can power a haybine (once I upgrade). If possible I am hoping that I could get a few model numbers to target while browsing. I am open to other brands of tractors if a strong case could be made 

Thanks for any information provided. It's not even winter yet and I'm dreaming about next season...


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## Vol (Jul 5, 2009)

John Deere 2355 or 2350....both in your price range and you won't buy a better tractor in it's class. It can more than power your two listed pieces of equipment and more. Highly desirable, very sound built and time tested....and you will be able to quickly get a part if needed.

The hydrostatic power steering was a option but makes the tractor handle like a sports car.

Regards, Mike


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## PaMike (Dec 7, 2013)

New Holland had a workmaster series that was a budget tractor in the 55-75 HP. Also, NH had the TN series. TN55,TN60,TN65 etc. I have Case IH 685. Nice little 60 HP tractor that would be in that price range.


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## somedevildawg (Jun 20, 2011)

Those TN tractors ain't bad, they ain't no Deere like a 2355 but they are good tractors, I had a TN65 and it gave me good service....Iveco engine. Open station right?


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## Wethay (Jul 17, 2015)

Haven't been around many of that size in other colors so I can't compare. The 50 and 55 series 'Deere are great tractors. Dealer support, distance away, etc should be a factor.


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## BWfarms (Aug 3, 2015)

You just put a broad, and I mean a broad request for tractors. All you need is 40+ pto hp and that sums up just about every tractor there is on the planet. Go old school is my recommendation because you're a small fry so to speak. You're not going to add the hours to a tractor like some of us. Maybe 25-50 hours a year? So for simple tractors. Sneak a peek at Ford 5000 Super Major, Massey Ferguson 165, and a long list of IH tractors. The newest small hp I have is a CaseIH Farmall 65A (57 pto), I like it for most part and it has over 900 hours on it with electrical issues involving fuel module and safety switches. Neighbor has the Workmaster 65 and had same minor problems. I solved those since I can diagnose the newer equipment. Now that thing was expensive enough as it was. If your heart desire is on a utility tractor, buy you a basic gear tractor. Ignore the hydrostatic and mfwd crowd, you can get a more powerful tractor for the money.

I know for some money is not an object because they want the satisfaction of making hay. For your hay to pay, be reasonable with how much you spend on equipment.


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## SCtrailrider (May 1, 2016)

A few years ago I was in your shoes... I have lots of bailing experience but I like the older equipment due to ease of working on them...

I settled on a 70's something JD2030 power unit... paid cash for everything, most wonder why I went with such a old ugly tractor, well it works, and it does what I ask of it... yea, it needs a motor job, smokes a bit, rusty, heavy etc.. but then again those things are said about me also LOL....

Stay cheap, make what you have work without lots of cash and you will be happier than sending a payment off in the mail....

My animals & hay don't care what it cost and I can nearly handle anything that needs doing with the ugly cheap smoking equipment... suites my way of doing things here....


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## Tx Jim (Jun 30, 2014)

Don't overlook a Kubota. I had a M4900 that I utilized to cut & sq bale with. It had a 5 cyl engine and pulled my JD 347 sq baler very well. It was 2 WD with cab & fel


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## MyDaughtersPony (Jun 12, 2016)

I am just window shopping like I mentioned. Doesn't hurt to dream 5-10 years down the road  Thanks for all the input I really appreciate it.


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## Shetland Sheepdog (Mar 31, 2011)

Ford/New Holland 4610 or 5610 would be what I'd be looking at, '82 to'93. Simple, strong, reliable "blue" tractors. Check out transmission options on Tractor Data. JMHO, Dave


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## CowboyRam (Dec 13, 2015)

SCtrailrider said:


> A few years ago I was in your shoes... I have lots of bailing experience but I like the older equipment due to ease of working on them...
> 
> I settled on a 70's something JD2030 power unit... paid cash for everything, most wonder why I went with such a old ugly tractor, well it works, and it does what I ask of it... yea, it needs a motor job, smokes a bit, rusty, heavy etc.. but then again those things are said about me also LOL....
> 
> ...


I don't think there is anything wrong with older tractors. Dad's tracker is 75 Massey with about 7000 hours, and mine is a 79 Massey with about 3100 hours. In my opinion the best thing about having an older tractor is, I don't have any payments.


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## JD3430 (Jan 1, 2012)

Looks like a great deal if it's legitimate and you can up your budget

http://chambersburg.craigslist.org/grd/5800925221.html


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## BWfarms (Aug 3, 2015)

JD3430 said:


> Looks like a great deal if it's legitimate and you can up your budget
> http://chambersburg.craigslist.org/grd/5800925221.html


JD you must get snookered a lot. Here's the real post on tractor house.

http://www.tractorhouse.com/listings/farm-equipment/for-sale/10418193/2006-kubota-m95s


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## SCtrailrider (May 1, 2016)

MyDaughtersPony said:


> I am just window shopping like I mentioned. Doesn't hurt to dream 5-10 years down the road  Thanks for all the input I really appreciate it.


No it doesn't ...

I'm 56 now, I have been depending on "locals" for, well about that long now for my hay needs, that didn't work good any year, I would buy what I had to to feed my cridders .. but always said I'd have my own stuff one day...

I have always helped a farmer friend and he was frugal to put it mildly.. he could & can afford new equipment... When younger I had to ride, work on, that old stuff, old Oliver, others I don't even know what make they are... a large air cooled tractor that had lots of power what ever it is, he still uses it & the same stuff I worked with 35-40yrs ago & the stuff was older than dirt then..

Moral of the story is.... Buy only a little more than you need, be able & willing to work on it, know parts might be hard to find so take care of them, if you really deep down need something never take money that would be for the family.. ie PAY CASH as ya go, when you get older you will thank yourself for having the patience of a farmer even if only a meager 40ac like me....just be proud it's payed for when ya look at what ya have...

Chris


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## JD3430 (Jan 1, 2012)

BWfarms said:


> JD you must get snookered a lot. Here's the real post on tractor house. http://www.tractorhouse.com/listings/farm-equipment/for-sale/10418193/2006-kubota-m95s


No not really. I do quite well. 
The ad had a phone number. I didn't call the number, but that usually indicates legitimacy. Just trying to help the guy.


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## Hayman1 (Jul 6, 2013)

MyDaughtersPony said:


> I am just window shopping like I mentioned. Doesn't hurt to dream 5-10 years down the road  Thanks for all the input I really appreciate it.


I would consider a JD 2640, with less than 5K hours. Fair number around and one tough tractor. Older but very functional and cheaper than the 55 series. Will pull kicker baler and wagon or 9.5' discbine all day without issues. It will be 2wd but get 38" rear tires, it will help. 8 spd tranny and get the high low. You won't ever have to get rid of it no matter how big you get.


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## JD3430 (Jan 1, 2012)

Couple New Hollands in MI:

http://www.tractorhouse.com/listings/farm-equipment/for-sale/10734327/1996-new-holland-6640sle

http://www.tractorhouse.com/listings/farm-equipment/for-sale/10838183/1999-new-holland-tn75s

http://www.tractorhouse.com/listings/farm-equipment/for-sale/10119729/2000-new-holland-tn65

http://www.tractorhouse.com/listings/farm-equipment/for-sale/9060799/1999-new-holland-tn65d

Since youre close to Canada, you might do real well there. You'll save about 25 c. on the dollar.


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## Wethay (Jul 17, 2015)

I'm haying with a JD 2155, 2wd, open station. It's paid for and works. We got a good deal on it slightly used or else we would have went older. For small time guys like us less horse power and a bit smaller equipment is affordable, plentiful and it really isn't that much slower on our scale. I would consider 4wd if you are wanting a loader and/ or are dealing with hills. With that said the 2155 was the only tractor we had with a loader for years and I'm still haying with it on hills way to steep for somebody sane.


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## MyDaughtersPony (Jun 12, 2016)

Not looking for a loader. I also have very flat fields. I just need something small but big enough to run a haybine and small square baler.


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## Shetland Sheepdog (Mar 31, 2011)

MyDaughtersPony said:


> Not looking for a loader. I also have very flat fields. I just need something small but big enough to run a haybine and small square baler.


You might find a 3910 or 4610SU to your liking! I find my 3910 to be very handy, and it would be much akin to the JD 2155 mentioned earlier. As for power the 3910 would be 3-4 PTO HP less than the 2155, while the 4610SU would be 4-5 HP more than the 2155. 3910 & 4610SU are the exact same physical size.
HTH, Dave


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## 8350HiTech (Jul 26, 2013)

If I was shopping for a tractor for your use, price, serviceability, and gear selection would be my biggest factors. Paint color would be way down the list.


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## r82230 (Mar 1, 2016)

MyDaughtersPony said:


> Not looking for a loader. I also have very flat fields. I just need something small but big enough to run a haybine and small square baler.


No loader, that can be good and bad. The good, 5-6K cheaper tractors, the bad once you have a tractor with a FEL, you wonder how you got along without it.

Cab tractor another 5-6K, front wheel assist $??? more.

I would look for tractors with two sets of hydraulic hookups also.

I would look at a heavier tractor, something that weighs 5k or more (puts you in the 50-70 HP tractor ranges general (not the light weight 'utility' tractors). Rational: a hundred bales of 60# idiot bricks on a wagon is 3000# that the tractor needs to STOP sometimes, even on flat ground. A lighter tractor maybe able to pull the load find, BUT..................

My 1 cent today.

Larry


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## Widairy (Jan 1, 2016)

If you're looking for affordable I would look at the 100 and 200 series Massey Ferguson. Lots of those local here and they'd be handy. I usually am a Deere guy but for small square hay work on a budget they look like something to check out. Neighbors used to have a 165 and a 255. Nice handy little tractors.


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## JD3430 (Jan 1, 2012)

8350HiTech said:


> If I was shopping for a tractor for your use, price, serviceability, and gear selection would be my biggest factors. Paint color would be way down the list.


Paint color is a serviceability factor.

He may have a reputable New Holland (or other brand) dealer nearby, making service & parts easy for him.


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## MyDaughtersPony (Jun 12, 2016)

My knowledge about equipment in general is very limited. That's why I am asking about what would be best for my situation. I appreciate all of the info.

I'm not overly concerned about the "paint" color but I do have JD and NH dealers in my area which would probably be beneficial to me. The bucket would be nice I'm sure! But I'd probably not want to pay more for it.


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## 8350HiTech (Jul 26, 2013)

With the age of tractor you'll be looking at, a capable independent mechanic should be just as good as a dealer and much cheaper. If you don't have any independents around, the brand may be more important to you if you're going to have to have service done at a dealer.


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## CowboyRam (Dec 13, 2015)

I thinks someone has touched on this, but I have learned it is very important to find a good dealer, and a good mechanic. We learned the hard way that we could not count on the Massey/CaseIH dealer here to get the parts we needed; even when they told us it would have to be used parts, and they could get them. Hell they did not even try. We search for the parts ourselves. Now the JD dealer is great, I don't know about the NH dealer. So now when we have anything major come up we go to the JD dealer first. Last year when I was looking for a tractor, I would of liked to have one of those with the green paint, but it seams you pay a premium for green, so I had to to with red.


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## JD3430 (Jan 1, 2012)

MyDaughtersPony said:


> My knowledge about equipment in general is very limited. That's why I am asking about what would be best for my situation. I appreciate all of the info.
> 
> I'm not overly concerned about the "paint" color but I do have JD and NH dealers in my area which would probably be beneficial to me. The bucket would be nice I'm sure! But I'd probably not want to pay more for it.


Is your hay ground generally flat? If yes, I'd put my money into a 2WD but try to get a HVAC cab. 4WD may be a waste of money. 2WD tractors with a locking rear get plenty of traction. The cab will keep you outside longer when its hot or cold. It will also keep you healthier and more importantly, safer.

If your baler has a kicker, then you could load your wagon while baling and tow to storage. You wouldnt need a loader.

Remember, if you outgrow your tractor you can always sell it.


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## MyDaughtersPony (Jun 12, 2016)

8350HiTech said:


> With the age of tractor you'll be looking at, a capable independent mechanic should be just as good as a dealer and much cheaper. If you don't have any independents around, the brand may be more important to you if you're going to have to have service done at a dealer.


I'm not thinking about having them service it... I'm thinking parts.


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## MyDaughtersPony (Jun 12, 2016)

CowboyRam said:


> I thinks someone has touched on this, but I have learned it is very important to find a good dealer, and a good mechanic. We learned the hard way that we could not count on the Massey/CaseIH dealer here to get the parts we needed; even when they told us it would have to be used parts, and they could get them. Hell they did not even try. We search for the parts ourselves. Now the JD dealer is great, I don't know about the NH dealer. So now when we have anything major come up we go to the JD dealer first. Last year when I was looking for a tractor, I would of liked to have one of those with the green paint, but it seams you pay a premium for green, so I had to to with red.


My father in law who lives across the field is a mechanic... however he's often grumpy and hard to work with lol


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## MyDaughtersPony (Jun 12, 2016)

JD3430 said:


> Is your hay ground generally flat? If yes, I'd put my money into a 2WD but try to get a HVAC cab. 4WD may be a waste of money. 2WD tractors with a locking rear get plenty of traction. The cab will keep you outside longer when its hot or cold. It will also keep you healthier and more importantly, safer.
> 
> If your baler has a kicker, then you could load your wagon while baling and tow to storage. You wouldnt need a loader.
> 
> Remember, if you outgrow your tractor you can always sell it.


My fields are very flat and compared to some tiny. If I can't handle being in the hot summer temps for as long as it takes me to cut/rake/bale then I shouldn't be doing hay lol. I will probably go for 2wd, no cab, no loader type. As far as tractor HP, PTO hp, anything transmission, hydraulic, torque, or anything else specific all I know is what you guys are telling me. I am pretty damn green when it comes to any of that.


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## r82230 (Mar 1, 2016)

MyDaughtersPony said:


> My father in law who lives across the field is a mechanic... however he's often grumpy and hard to work with lol


Is he 'grumpy' only when you are around? If so, it could be who his daughter married or you just don't hold your face right. :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: Hang around him more, he will loosen up and get more mellow SOMEDAY (you should hope anyhow).

Kidding aside, if he is mechanical, on older tractor would fit you better, because in IMHO, they sure seem a lot easier to work on (and simpler, fuel, spark or compression, go, if not hook a chain on and drag around the yard a little).

Larry


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## MyDaughtersPony (Jun 12, 2016)

LOL Larry. He has chronic leg pain and like most people is grumpy when it's really painful. I'm sure I get under his skin for a number of reasons, but I think he's at least mildly satisfied with who his daughter married lol.

In other news... he bought a Farmall M today which is nice considering it's bigger. However.... he's planning on selling his 200 which is my sentimental favorite. I learned how to drive a tractor on the 200 when I first started dating my wife about 9 years ago. I'm only 30 currently. So I have mixed feelings about it, but I'm sure I'll get over it. I haven't looked into the M's specs but I know it's bigger.


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## MyDaughtersPony (Jun 12, 2016)

I looked the M up at tractordata.com and it's listed at 36 PTO hp. Is this enough to run a haybine or still not enough? I remember someone saying 40+


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## 8350HiTech (Jul 26, 2013)

It might not be practical but you could buy the 200...


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## MyDaughtersPony (Jun 12, 2016)

If I had the money I would.


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## Farmerbrown2 (Sep 25, 2018)

Neighbor runs 7 foot haybine with a M had a JD 1207 now has a NH.


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## bool (Mar 14, 2016)

Just about any tractor between 40 and 70 horsepower made since the late 1960s will do the job. There are some features you need:

The more gears, the better. I suggest at least 8 gears. The MF 6-speed gearbox had a big gap between 2nd and 3rd that I found frustrating.

Two stage clutch (push down halfway and forward movement stops, push the rest of the way and the PTO stops). This makes PTO operation easier. Good for a brush hog too. Or even better, independent PTO, where the PTO and travel clutches are operated separately.

Remote hydraulics. One double-acting remote control is enough. Main use will be lifting the header on a haybine, but it could also be used for a round baler if you buy a cheap one eventually.

Having said all that, I do think the John Deeres are the nicest to drive and operate.

Roger


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## bool (Mar 14, 2016)

An M will run a haybine.

The 200 is not exactly an ideal haying tractor. It's the sort of tractor you would use for haying only because you do not have to pay any money to use it (which I imagine is why you have been using it). If he is willing to sell it to you really cheap, great, but it sounds as though he isn't. (You might see if he will give it to his daughter!) Rather than buying a less-than-suitable tractor at full price, just start using the M and save up for something more suitable.

Roger


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## glasswrongsize (Sep 15, 2015)

The M is a fine tractor and will run the hay mower/conditioner just fine or run an older (such is in my price range) square baler.

The problem that I would have with an M is that it does not go slow enough at PTO speed for my small baler in heavy hay. If the new acquisition of the M puts you out of the market for a tractor, it will work just fine and probably better than the 200. If, even with the new M, you are still in the market, my first requirement (WAAAAAY before pain color, spark plugs or injectors, 2wd/4wd, cab, etc...) would be gear choice. By that I mean that, to me, NEEDS to have 3 or more gears that go below 2.5 mph or so, and preferably a low-gear that is less than 1mph at pto speed. Yesterday, I had to go fetch the smaller 5040 to bale with because the 460 with TA back was still way to fast for the single 9' windrows somewhere between 6 stroke bales and sheared pins/slipping clutch on baler. Slower, albeit less hp, tractor made nice bales at about .8 mph. GEAR SELECTION would be king for me.

73, Mark


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## rankrank1 (Mar 30, 2009)

Gonna take you many years to pay for the low cost tractors, low cost haying equipment that you and your FIL already have on your small acreage haying operation.

A 10K to 15K tractor will likely change that to decades before you turn a profit...unless you expanding the acres covered? Then what started as a hobby turns into a full time 2nd job...and soon you need even bigger and better stuff...pretty soon everyone is making money except you...you simply running the stuff all the time trying to justify owning it


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## MyDaughtersPony (Jun 12, 2016)

I have other ways to put a tractor to work besides just haying.


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## stack em up (Mar 7, 2013)

MyDaughtersPony said:


> I have other ways to put a tractor to work besides just haying.


That's a good thing! Where a lot of people get in trouble is getting a bunch of machinery before having the acres to put them over. Then the payment comes due, haven't sold enough of _________, and the bank wants their cash.


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## JD3430 (Jan 1, 2012)

MyDaughtersPony said:


> I have other ways to put a tractor to work besides just haying.


Good plan. I use my tractors to bush hog quite a bit and plow some snow here & there.


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## thendrix (May 14, 2015)

If I'm looking for a general purpose tractor, I want enough weight to be safe, live PTO, and live hydraulics with at least 1 remote. In your case, I might look for a gas tractor in the 65hp to 75hp or larger range. Parts should be available for most any of the main brands and you can get a good tractor for less then you're budget. Truth be known, I need to sell my Long due to parts availability and follow this advice myself.


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## BWfarms (Aug 3, 2015)

BWfarms said:


> JD you must get snookered a lot. Here's the real post on tractor house. http://www.tractorhouse.com/listings/farm-equipment/for-sale/10418193/2006-kubota-m95s


JD, the scam made it to my part of the country
https://raleigh.craigslist.org/grd/5803842257.html


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## CowboyRam (Dec 13, 2015)

BWfarms said:


> JD, the scam made it to my part of the country
> https://raleigh.craigslist.org/grd/5803842257.html


Just saw that same tractor listed in my neck of the woods. Looks like it is getting around.

http://wyoming.craigslist.org/grd/5801897654.html


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## thendrix (May 14, 2015)

http://atlanta.craigslist.org/atl/grq/5818572217.html

Here to


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