# Opinions on trailers again



## JD3430

Still trying to set up the right trailer before I buy. I started a thread a while back thinking I wanted a trailer that could dump and carry round bales.
Decided to drop the dump option and just go at with a flat bed hay/equipment hauler.
What I know I want:
Gooseneck
20k GVWR minimum. 
25' of flat deck
Stow away ramps
Tandem dual oil bath axles
Low pro deck height
Radial tires
Dual jacks
Storage box
Primer and paint (no powder coat)

What other options do you find to be "no brainer" options? There's so many options it makes it almost impossible to settle on a final design.
I really like PJs lo pro tandem dually, where they just have diamond plate over the tires, but dislike their powder coating. I like Appalachian, but they don't offer slide in ramps.


----------



## ANewman

Are you looking for a flatbed with no dovetail? Is that the reason for the stow away ramps?


----------



## sethd11

Definitely low pro
25k pounds minimum
Equipment needs a Beavertail, a pop up is perfect. 
A 25 plus 5 on the pop is perfect for getting into tight places. 
Led light kit would be nice.
On the axles you have a choice of brakes. Drum brakes are great, however if you can upgrade to disc brakes your money ahead.


----------



## C & C Cattle and Hay

I recommend the dovetail with pop up as well!! Or maybe even a gooseneck with a hydraulic dovetail depending on how much you wanna spend! No ramps the dovetail raises to level flatbed. They are nice but expensive.


----------



## hayward

Like all options you listed, but I'd go with dove tail, got ramps on mine, when I drive tractor on it with bush hog, mower or rake I have to find a low spot or ditch to keep from dragging
Trailer. Like to get new one with dove tail an slideing axles.


----------



## AndyL

For loading equipment I'd go with the dovetail. I have ramps for my 40'. Scared to drive 4230 and 535 up on it, then have to back off. And take your foot off the clutch backing off. It reminds you really fast when you don't. (that's a reminder to me, by the way)

But the dovetail is a lot easier loading/unloading equipment. And safer I think.


----------



## somedevildawg

Me too on the pop up dovetail, nice option, gives you double duty....another thing I would insist on when buying another trailer would be a torque tube....most of the better built trailers have them. And make sure jacks are spring loaded and the damn release is in the front...not like some that put them on the side so you have to get down in a weird position to release...again better trailers will have that....open up your pocket book JD, I'll help ya spend it...


----------



## somedevildawg

And of course well engineered ramps with adequate spring assist, ramps that bear the weight and don't transfer to the trailer until the load is on the trailer....


----------



## somedevildawg

Led lights with turn indicators mounted under the bed mid-way of trailer bed.....


----------



## somedevildawg

Oak floor would be awesome.....


----------



## somedevildawg

Two speed jack is a great option, rarely seen on GN, make sure it's got heavy duty rub rails, course my guys can bend em no matter...
I'll think of a few more....


----------



## JMT

How about a roller on the back to keep from dragging so bad. Have seen some home built but none factory.

Our trailer has a dovetail cut into the frame instead of angling the frame down. Helps keep from dragging.

Also recommend flip over ramps not stow away ramps even with a dovetail. Ours has stow away ramps and they almost always fall down when unloading a tractor.


----------



## Vol

JD, you are aware of the dove tails with the spring assisted flip up ramps that make the trailer bed flat in the flip up position.....they are much better than the stow away ramps. Andy and others have mentioned about the very hazardous conditions that one has with stow away ramps....coming loose while loading. I usually back up the ramps with a big tractor when loading as it just creeps me out to back down the ramps when unloading. Those flatbed spring assisted flip up ramps make it really nice when hauling hay. Customer of mine just had a trailer built and his ramps are really heavy built and he honestly can use ONE HAND to flip up his ramps...really amazing to see. I like the extra width he has on the ramps as it is really nice about loading bigger tractors.....you don't have to be perfectly lined up when loading.

Regards, Mike


----------



## JD3430

Really like this
http://www.pjtrailers.com/options/power-tail/


----------



## AndyL

I never thought about backing on. When loading all the pecan equipment we back everything on to get all the equip on 1 load. Never dawned to back the tractor when I'm just hauling it.


----------



## JD3430

A 30' PJ power tail tandem dual 30' is 12,500.
Ouch!


----------



## somedevildawg

That pj is a nice looking trailer jd...the loading ramp is everything you want in a ramp that you don't have to fold manually. Speaking of that....guess you are just outta luck if battery goes dead (what would happen to me) or hydro pump goes out (next thing that would happen) if it were me I think I would go with manual fold ramps....with adequate spring assist.

I had a mine to break (spring assist) the other day, was folding a ramp and "bing" heard something...didn't know what until I let that ramp up again, then it was obvious....two uses later and the other ring assist went "bing"....yep it broke as well....I thought it was cool that they both failed within probably 2-3 uses of each other.....when it's time it's time...no mas


----------



## JD3430

Cheaper, more reliable ramp option
http://www.pjtrailers.com/videos.cfm#monster_ramps


----------



## Tim/South

We have the flip up dove tail on the 24' Better Built. It is more handy than I thought it would be. When I haul a tractor with a disc mower we flip the dove tail up flat and let the mower down to ride flat. The mower drive shaft would hit the tractor drawbar if we did not have that option.

When we haul hay we leave the dove down and let the rolls rest against the ramps. We have a set of chains make to adjust the lean on the ramps to allow 5 rolls down each side. Sometimes we push the ramp up a chain link or two and squeeze the bales in tight.

On the rare occasion we haul any square bales we raise the dove tail up and make the bed flat.

I wish I had some D rings on the back of the trailer to tie down length wise.


----------



## Bonfire

Try this. You could check off nearly every one of somedevildog's spec list. Go on, show him the money!

http://redrhinotrailers.com/


----------



## Lewis Ranch

We have a load trail dealer here local and I would highly recomend calling them. Some of the best trailers on the market with the best warrenty and these guys sell them cheaper than anyone in the country. I've done quite a bit of business with them and they go above and beyond. I know they are a ways from you but people come from all over the US to get trailers from these guys.

http://www.thetrailerguys.com/default.aspx?mb=rte


----------



## endrow

The contest here in my book is not to see how heavy but how light.. after all you unload the hay you will have to pull it home empty millions of times . the trailer you use to haul your track hoe is not a hay trailer '. I mean if you haul lots of hay locally it gets old with a huge trailer don't ask me how I know


----------



## deadmoose

Not sure how big Appalachian co is, but I know if you went toone of the local mfg around here and said I want this... not in catalog they would do it. Speaking directly with a manufacturer will let you know what they will or will not do.


----------



## JD3430

endrow said:


> The contest here in my book is not to see how heavy but how light.. after all you unload the hay you will have to pull it home empty millions of times . the trailer you use to haul your track hoe is not a hay trailer '. I mean if you haul lots of hay locally it gets old with a huge trailer don't ask me how I know


I know what you mean. The Pig Tex gooseneck I borrow is sooo heavy unloaded. 
Guy that sells PJ swears the low pro option saves fuel because its more aerodynamic. 
I'm content with 25' total deck length. That usually saves on weight because once they get under 30', they take some of the weight out because its not as heavily reinforced on the frame.
I was thinking of even going to 17.5" singles to save weight and still get a 18-20k rating. Every time I think I want to do it, I picture exiting a field with one tire up in the air and a full load on that axle.....so I think I'll stick with duals. 
PJ 25' 22,400lb gooseneck low pro with flip up assisted "monster ramps", dual jacks, radials, spare tire and red paint is like $9,600.
Only thing I hate is they use powder coating paint. Hate that crap.

Would like to have the PJ, but no powder coat. I've owned 2 backhoes. One had powder coating and one didnt. The older one was primer and paint but far outlasted the powder coated hoe. My dump body was powder coated and that crap was flaking off after 5 years in sheets.


----------



## Teslan

JD3430 said:


> Cheaper, more reliable ramp option
> http://www.pjtrailers.com/videos.cfm#monster_ramps


I like that hydraulic jack option. When I was looking for trailers I went to a dealer (that sells something different of course) and he said that he repairs more PJ trailers then any other brand of trailers. But most of the trailers around here are used in the oil/gas fields and are really used and abused. I bought Towmaster trailer from a guy that used it to haul around play ground equipment that he sold to various places.


----------



## JD3430

Bonfire said:


> Try this. You could check off nearly every one of somedevildog's spec list. Go on, show him the money!
> 
> http://redrhinotrailers.com/


Awesome. Love the Hydrasled. 
Where does it end???? Lol


----------



## somedevildawg

Go bob makes an awesome trailer if ya ain't checked it out...I know I've said it before, but whatever you do, buy quality, it never goes out of style and more importantly, holds its value....good luck, post pics when ya get it, makin me want another....


----------



## somedevildawg

Oops I see you have, that hydra slide is cool....I want one too


----------



## sethd11

Wow a lot of options I didn't even think of. However if you are unloading and loading equipment constantly, stay away from removable ramps. I have a set and they are heavy. Really dread loading and unloading. 
Also a torque tube down the center of the trailer is vital exspecially if loads a re slightly uneven.


----------



## endrow

if you invest in a ten in Pa I would think the towing truck would need farm tags or the driver need a CDL


----------



## endrow

Sorry I wanted to say if you have a ten ton trailer you might need a CDL


----------



## JD3430

endrow said:


> Sorry I wanted to say if you have a ten ton trailer you might need a CDL


I have class A with air brakes. I used to drive trucks for a while. Logged well over a million miles.

Nice to hear about the slide out or remove able ramps. Kind of reaffirmed that I really DON'T want them. Looks like a minimum of flip up assist ramps is what I should stick with.


----------



## swmnhay

I went with a Titan this time.I really like their wide ramps.Flips over for a nice flat surface.

http://www.titantrailer.com/flatbedtrailers/tandem_flatbed.cfm


----------



## JD3430

swmnhay said:


> I went with a Titan this time.I really like their wide ramps.Flips over for a nice flat surface.
> 
> http://www.titantrailer.com/flatbedtrailers/tandem_flatbed.cfm


Hmmm, I like the looks of that trailer. Has 2 step paint in a real thorough paint process. Might have to give local Titan dealer a call. 
Thanks!


----------



## sethd11

Does anyone have a red rhino trailer with their torque tube?


----------



## steverutherf

I would look at Load Max or Gatormade, I have both. Great trailers:

Load Max- 30', duals, low profile, hydr. dove

Gatormade-24' elite.

Watch older Load Max trailers with duals, had problems early on with axle seals.


----------



## somedevildawg

sethd11 said:


> Does anyone have a red rhino trailer with their torque tube?


Not a red rhino but mine has a tube and I would not buy one without it....


----------



## swmnhay

Looked at a Red Rhino and dealer thought he needed full list price. :angry:

Titan has a torque tube running cross ways in the front instead of length ways.I was skeptical but it works great,no twist.


----------



## JD3430

No Gatorade for me. Powder coated.


----------



## somedevildawg

JD3430 said:


> No Gatorade for me. Powder coated.


 I was checking out trailers on YouTube the other day and gator? Has a ramp that must be like the one Vol was talking about...big ramps, had a lady that looked to be 100 lbs soaking wet pick em up both ways....no problemo....that's what I call spring assist


----------



## Greasy30

http://www.gatormade.com/15,0,gooseneck-trailers.html


----------



## sethd11

Well I have serious twist problems. Really needs to fabricate a torque tube and copying red rhinos torque tube seems simple


----------



## swmnhay

sethd11 said:


> Well I have serious twist problems. Really needs to fabricate a torque tube and copying red rhinos torque tube seems simple


The Titan torque tube is simpler yet

No cutting threw cross members.


----------



## sethd11

I have not found a picture yet. 
I shouldve taken a picture of the twist I can get out of my trailer when hay is loaded incorrectly. 
Does a torque tube ha e to run from front of trailer to back? Or It can it go from front to right before axles? 
Sorry to hijack thread jd3430


----------



## somedevildawg

sethd11 said:


> I have not found a picture yet.
> I shouldve taken a picture of the twist I can get out of my trailer when hay is loaded incorrectly.
> Does a torque tube ha e to run from front of trailer to back? Or It can it go from front to right before axles?
> Sorry to hijack thread jd3430


Thnk swmnhay said the Titan uses horizontal tubes? Mine goes from front to back, ends right before the axles...


----------



## JD3430

sethd11 said:


> I have not found a picture yet.
> I shouldve taken a picture of the twist I can get out of my trailer when hay is loaded incorrectly.
> Does a torque tube ha e to run from front of trailer to back? Or It can it go from front to right before axles?
> Sorry to hijack thread jd3430


No problem. I'm learning something here too!


----------



## Williams Farms

I have several different brands and sizes of trailer. I have a PJ 22 ft hydraulic tilt gooseneck that is not even a year old yet and 2 of the 4 hinges broke clean into. I will not buy another PJ, they use 3/16 where others would use 1/4 for instance. I have a 25ft tandem dual dovetail Big Tex that is a good trailer heavy built. I also have a 32 tandem dual dovetail Legend that is the best built of them all. The legend is a smaller family owned company here in Texas that actually take pride in their work. I will buy trailers from them from now on. I use these trailers everyday to make a living so they get a lot of use. I have had several 25 fts and did not have a torque tube,when you get above 25ft you need the tube. I can load my 32 with hay one side at a time and it does not twist,it will hold 23 4x5s with one on the neck. The 25 with no torque tube is the same way,no twist either. The hydraulic dovetail will have a dead battery when you need it, I speak from experience on this, I had to run power from my battery on my truck to the trailer to use more than a couple times a day. On this size trailer the heavier built the better, get 12000lb axles to make up for the weight of the trailer. This size trailer is a load with nothing on it,just the price you have to pay. See if you can find a smaller family owned trailer builder up there and i think you will like their quality a lot better. You will be fine with a good spring asit dovetail.


----------



## deadmoose

Have you asked a local welding shop for a quote?


----------



## Lewis Ranch

I will agree with the guy on the legend trailers I currently have a 40' with 6' upper deck 15k axles with 17.5 tires, by far the best trailer I've ever bought. Torque tube runs to the axles then there is a cross tube behind them. I will never go back to 16" tires either after running 17.5" hauls 34 rolls at a time.


----------



## JD3430

Lewis Ranch said:


> I will agree with the guy on the legend trailers I currently have a 40' with 6' upper deck 15k axles with 17.5 tires, by far the best trailer I've ever bought. Torque tube runs to the axles then there is a cross tube behind them. I will never go back to 16" tires either after running 17.5" hauls 34 rolls at a time.


17.5 singles or duals?


----------



## swmnhay

sethd11 said:


> I have not found a picture yet.
> I shouldve taken a picture of the twist I can get out of my trailer when hay is loaded incorrectly.
> Does a torque tube ha e to run from front of trailer to back? Or It can it go from front to right before axles?
> Sorry to hijack thread jd3430


The Titan has a crossways tube in front of axles about 10" in diameter.I think more could be installed as another option farther forward.

I'm thinking some X braceing may be easier to weld in place then tubes which would require some vertical and upside down welding.


----------



## sethd11

Well luckily my father in law owns a small welding shop so the welding is close to free. I'm am mostly just looking for a good way to make the setup as cheaply as possible. I have some larger tube heavy wall laying around I could weld in there from side to side in like 4 spots that could help the twist. 10 inch pipe 1/4 in walls.
I have 16 inch wheels. Tires are cheap as hell and they last a long time but they cannot handle my overloading tendacies very much or for very long.
Swmnhay I'm thinking that the big tubes welded underneath should prevent any twist. Going to check titans website for some intellectual theft.


----------



## Lewis Ranch

Duals, 2 15k axles with electric over hydraulic brakes.


----------



## jturbo10

Have a Big Tex 25 footer with 5 ft dovetail and spring assisted ramps. Has all the goodies people talk about, including the electric/hydraulic brakes which are fantastic. I'm exploring the option of putting the same axles on my 36 ft 5th wheel RV. I'd never go back to electric brakes. I definitely would go with Dexter oil bath axles. I'm very happy with my trailer and there are several other brands that are high quality built. You kind of get what you pay for in the long run. I simply did not want to trust my big tractors and equipment to a cheap trailer. The lawyers will wear you out if you have an accident due to poorly built equipment that won't hold up to frequent use and stress not factoring in your family's life. JMHO


----------



## JD3430

jturbo10 said:


> Have a Big Tex 25 footer with 5 ft dovetail and spring assisted ramps. Has all the goodies people talk about, including the electric/hydraulic brakes which are fantastic. I'm exploring the option of putting the same axles on my 36 ft 5th wheel RV. I'd never go back to electric brakes. I definitely would go with Dexter oil bath axles. I'm very happy with my trailer and there are several other brands that are high quality built. You kind of get what you pay for in the long run. I simply did not want to trust my big tractors and equipment to a cheap trailer. The lawyers will wear you out if you have an accident due to poorly built equipment that won't hold up to frequent use and stress not factoring in your family's life. JMHO


The guy who sells PJ around here has elec/hyd brakes on his own personal trailer. It does sound like a great trailer option to get. He said he loves them. 
I could live with flip over manual ramps that lay flat on the dovetail. Only other thang I want is dual jacks and red paint. I'm getting really excited about the prospects of buying a trailer, but not spending 10-12k


----------



## deadmoose

Isn't that what the haybine proceeds are earmarked for?


----------



## JD3430

deadmoose said:


> Isn't that what the haybine proceeds are earmarked for?


I wish!


----------



## jescoag

I am not sure what you are going to pull it with, if not a 1 ton or up, I have used only 14K trailers. The savings in tires and maintenance out weigh the advantages. If you are pulling with a pickup, not a flatbed, choose an extended heigth goose for more bed sidewall clearence, mine is 6" more than standard. www.lawrimore.com . It was a very small cost addition.


----------



## somedevildawg

Forgot to mention JD my trailer is a trail master....made in Texas, very high quality....don't know if they have dealers in your neck but they are nice.


----------



## JD3430

Just missed a Pequea 25' 14k GN, pop up tail for $5,000.
I'm going to keep my options open and try to buy the best deal I can find. As long as its at least 14k and a GN with pop up tail, with a good price, I'll be a buyer.


----------



## somedevildawg

JD3430 said:


> Just missed a Pequea 25' 14k GN, pop up tail for $5,000.
> I'm going to keep my options open and try to buy the best deal I can find. As long as its at least 14k and a GN with pop up tail, with a good price, I'll be a buyer.


Exactly what I paid for mine, about 4 years old.


----------



## JD3430

This one was only 2 yrs old. While I was driving down to have a look at it, someone bought it!


----------



## sethd11

Not to make u jealous I got mine for 5100 bucks. Heheee


----------



## jturbo10

Love my Big Tex with all the options you need or want. Low profile, torque tubes, radial tires, oil bath, front and side storage, LED lights, side blinkers, electric/hydraulics brakes, flip up ramps, etc. They are well built and the elec/hydr brakes are a must for me as they will work hard all the time without fade. My 2014 Dodge Ram 3500 with exhaust brake and Cummins 6.7 is a great combo plus I also use my 99 Dodge 2500 with cummins for lighter loads. Big Tex trailers are not light trailers as there is a lot of steel in them but they do wear better than a lot of other trailer brands. JMHO


----------



## JD3430

jturbo10 said:


> Love my Big Tex with all the options you need or want. Low profile, torque tubes, radial tires, oil bath, front and side storage, LED lights, side blinkers, electric/hydraulics brakes, flip up ramps, etc. They are well built and the elec/hydr brakes are a must for me as they will work hard all the time without fade. My 2014 Dodge Ram 3500 with exhaust brake and Cummins 6.7 is a great combo plus I also use my 99 Dodge 2500 with cummins for lighter loads. Big Tex trailers are not light trailers as there is a lot of steel in them but they do wear better than a lot of other trailer brands. JMHO


That would be a great trailer, but I don't have $15,000 for one speced out like that.

IMO, there's 2 options:
1: lighter weight 14K single tires 25' long with elec brakes
2: heavyweight 20-24K duals 30-35' long with elec/hyd brakes

Option 1 is half the price, say 4-5K less up front cost and easier to tow behind anything from a 3/4 ton on up. Downside is it carries less hay- only 12 of my 900lb bales. So more trips
Option 2 $5k more, heavier to tow on back hauls and higher maintenance, but it carries 20-22 bales a pop.


----------



## sethd11

Can you just flat out buy a used flatbed? I mean with your f550 you shouldn't run into to many weight problems plus you can haul more bales and equipment faster. Definitely would lean towards a heavier flatbed. I have pretty faded paint on my big gooseneck and I run it all winter long in the salt. Trick is to rinse it off alot, makes crappy paint last. Shoot you can just come buy my ridicously long 45 footer.


----------



## KFhunter

I got the little brother to this trailer, mines the 7ton version but this one is 10 ton or 25,500# GVWR.

Oak flooring, sturdy and really easy to maneuver around in tight lots with the shorter wheel base.

http://www.econolinetrailers.com/TrailerSpecSheet.asp?TrailerID=68

Mines speced out with welded on strap winches for those big 4 inch wide trucker straps, got about 6 of those welded on down the drivers side of the trailer.

Also has stake pockets around all 4 sides of the trailer including the rear, stake pockets are just in front of the tail section about a 1 foot from the very rear and along the front. Also has a 2" receiver on the front of the tilt deck so I can hook a winch on the front and drag things up onto the trailer, like 6.0L F550's


----------



## KFhunter

this one's interesting

http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_odkw=gooseneck+tilt&_osacat=95495&_from=R40&_trksid=p2045573.m570.l1313&_nkw=gooseneck+tilt&_sacat=0

new one, good price too

http://www.ebay.com/itm/2013-102X26-GN-EQUIPMENT-TILT-DECK-TRAILER-2-10-000LB-AXLES-W-ELECTRIC-BRAKES-/231204360671?forcerrptr=true&hash=item35d4da91df&item=231204360671&pt=Motors_Trailers

another type of tilt

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Hydraulic-dovetail-gooseneck-tandem-dual-Dexter-axles-/181377008438?forcerrptr=true&hash=item2a3ae98336&item=181377008438&pt=Motors_Trailers


----------



## JD3430

I need that in the larger 30' size.


----------



## Lewis Ranch

The axles look like they set to far up to be able to cary much of a load.


----------



## JD3430

Yes, it's the only way it can pivot. If you get a 30' tilt, you have 5' or more of fixed deck and a pivoting portion. Puts the dual tandems further back.


----------

