# New Holland 315



## hydro70 (Dec 13, 2010)

Hi all, I'm new here, and have a few questions about my baler. First off, what do I need to adjust to make a squarer shouldered/fronted bale? Secondly, I can get the grass dry as I want, and I get extremely hefty bales. I have tried cranking the tension on the rails, but if you loosen it up too much, the bales come out terrible. Is there a better way of doing it? Also, is there anyway to bale rotary straw with a New Holland baler? Mine wouldn't, so I borrowed my neighbors Deere 336, and that worked right through. Thanks for all of the help! Feel free to email me with solutions at [email protected] Thanks!!!!!!


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## Toyes Hill Angus (Dec 21, 2010)

IMO Several things are missing in the forming chamer that you need: seems to me by what you describe there are not any wedges in the chamber, I'm guessing that you don't have the plunger entensions on the bale plunger, possibly broken missing springs om the hay dogs. Probably not a bad idea to shapen the knife if the cut side of the bale is not square. That's my guess on the hay as for straw I'm guessing that it just wants to roll in front of the pick up because of the short rotary stubble (mine does), take the wind guard on the pick up and tie it up or take it off. It will make a big difference in brittle short straw (I learned that the hard way)


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## hydro70 (Dec 13, 2010)

Thanks for the help. I will have to resolve all of these things for next year!


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## cuttingfool (Feb 14, 2011)

Can anyone tell me how to locate the timing marks on a Hayliner 315. The one I've been using has been doing a great job, but at the end of last haying season it started having problems and even broke a knotter. Someone told me I need to check the timing, but I don't know where the marks are located.


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## Toyes Hill Angus (Dec 21, 2010)

This is how a 311 baler is timed, I don't remember if a 315 is the same for sure but I think it is...
turn the baler in the normal direction until the crank arm is straight up, you will see two notches in the rail where the arm penetrates through the top of area where the crank swings. make sure the clutch dog is tight in its slot. Now go back to the knotter shaft, just to the inside of the baler from the chain and sprocket there are two drums on the shaft before the disc for the brake. These drums have marks on them, they need to be as close as possible but definately within 1/4" If they aren't and all chains are tight and properly adjusted you will need to re-time the baler, that involves removing the knotter drive chain, make sure the crank arm is in the center of the marks on the top of the bale case, and the clutch dogs are at the end of their stops, pull up on the needle yolk arm to remove any play in it, then you turn the knotter gear until the two marks line up, put the chain back on and you are good to go.


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## hay wilson in TX (Jan 28, 2009)

If you do not have an Operators Manual and a Parts Catalog for your baler you need to buyem. 
The Operators manual for the NH 315 is really Really REALLY good.


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## cuttingfool (Feb 14, 2011)

Thanks for the info. I'll get on as soon as the weather lets me.


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## hay wilson in TX (Jan 28, 2009)

In two weeks some folks, HERE, will start planting corn.


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## mlappin (Jun 25, 2009)

In two weeks _here_ if the warm weather holds, I'll be knee deep in mud.


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## scrapiron (Mar 10, 2010)

In two weeks HERE if the warm weather holds and we get another rain, I will be changing blades on the disc mower and greasing the round & square balers. About 3-4 weeks from 1st cutting if we have some RAIN.

scrapiron


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## Edster (Feb 23, 2010)

Oh please stop rubbing it in guys. In 3 to 4 months the snow might finally be melted here.


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## sedurbin (May 30, 2009)

> Can anyone tell me how to locate the timing marks on a Hayliner 315.





> This is how a 311 baler is timed, I don't remember if a 315 is the same for sure but I think it is...
> turn the baler in the normal direction until the crank arm is straight up, you will see two notches in the rail where the arm penetrates through the top of area where the crank swings. make sure the clutch dog is tight in its slot. Now go back to the knotter shaft, just to the inside of the baler from the chain and sprocket there are two drums on the shaft before the disc for the brake. These drums have marks on them, they need to be as close as possible but definately within 1/4" If they aren't and all chains are tight and properly adjusted you will need to re-time the baler, that involves removing the knotter drive chain, make sure the crank arm is in the center of the marks on the top of the bale case, and the clutch dogs are at the end of their stops, pull up on the needle yolk arm to remove any play in it, then you turn the knotter gear until the two marks line up, put the chain back on and you are good to go.





> If you do not have an Operators Manual and a Parts Catalog for your baler you need to buyem.
> The Operators manual for the NH 315 is really Really REALLY good.


In addition to what the above says, you also need to check the timing of the feeder fingers (stuffer) Don't try any of this without spending the $25 for the manual.

NH Manuals Link

For the original poster that is asking about a better looking bale. Tighten the tension until the bale is nice and firm then make sure that you have even windrows and you are keeping the baler full of hay. Raking nice even windrows can do wonders for how a bale looks in any baler. The other thing is to make sure the knives are sharp. I have had both a JD336 and currently have the NH315, both are good balers. I'd say that the 315 can make more bales per hour and can do anything the 336 can do.

New Holland does make a Bale case extension that has the side tension adjustments and work well, to make a squarer shouldered bale, on my older and smaller NH276. I haven't felt the need to put one on the 315.

Let us know what you find to work for you.
Sam


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## lewbest (Dec 9, 2009)

sedurbin said:


> In addition to what the above says, you also need to check the timing of the feeder fingers (stuffer) Don't try any of this without spending the $25 for the manual.
> 
> NH Manuals Link
> 
> ...


Just curious if anyone's ordered a printed version of one of these manuals recently. I bought the download version back in the fall & the pix in it are useless (if you know anything about printing they appear to be "double screened"). I'm hesitant to order the printed one in case it's just a print out of the downloaded one.

Lew


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## Edster (Feb 23, 2010)

lewbest said:


> Just curious if anyone's ordered a printed version of one of these manuals recently. I bought the download version back in the fall & the pix in it are useless (if you know anything about printing they appear to be "double screened"). I'm hesitant to order the printed one in case it's just a print out of the downloaded one.
> 
> Lew


I bought one for my 315 and one for my mower last year Lew. Pictures are fine. Prices aren't bad, but the shipping is killer. My mower is an IH so you order them thru the same place figured I could order both at the same time and save on the shipping. Not so. IH and NH manuals have to be ordered separately. So double shipping it was.


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## mlappin (Jun 25, 2009)

See if they can place that kind of stuff on a stock order. Will take several weeks or longer to get, but usually free shipping.


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