# New Holland BC5070 and 575 Questions



## VA Haymaker (Jul 1, 2014)

Recently saw a used New Holland BC5070 sell for what I thought was a low price. Man was retiring and sold his equipment,

I think I asked a similar question regarding a JD 348.

While our hay yield is quite low, once we whip our fields into shape, we should see a much greater yield - just not baling as many acres as you folks typically bale.

We are getting along fine with my New Holland 68, but I think a back-up baler is in order or a newer primary baler, with the 68 as the back-up.

Right now, capacity wise, the 68 is fine. We can only bale as fast as the stacker on the wagon and the 68 can bury them if I push it. But as we grow, we'll probably move to thrower wagons or some kind of accumulator/grapple system - especially as my kids age into adulthood, out of the house and I'm a one man show.

I know the BC5070 and the 575 are similar balers and high capacity balers too.

Question is, if I find a deal on one, how's it going to do cranking out 32 inch, 40 lb bales of hay - which is our goal, like the 68? Our windrows maybe fat sometimes, but maybe thin too. If we are wagon stacking, again the limit is the stacker, not the baler, so I'd have to slow down.

I've read, the these balers like to be full and at capacity or bale shape/length problems occur. Not sure I understand though, just like my 68, there is a 14 x 18 bale chamber, hay dogs and wedges and a plunger.

What makes the BC5070 and 575 not desirable for lighter duty/less acreage baling - or have I got this all wrong? Anyone making 40 lb, 32ish inch bales with these balers?

If I see a deal - is this simply not a baler I should consider?

Any experiences, tips and sage advice on the BC5070 or 575 is much appreciated.

Thanks!
Bill


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## 8350HiTech (Jul 26, 2013)

You would love one until you got into really light hay. They can be problematic when not fed, as you have read, although not terrible. Obviously some handling methods are more forgiving to variation in bale length. The easy solution to utilizing a high capacity baler is using a high capacity rake. What are you using now?


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## VA Haymaker (Jul 1, 2014)

8350HiTech said:


> You would love one until you got into really light hay. They can be problematic when not fed, as you have read, although not terrible. Obviously some handling methods are more forgiving to variation in bale length. The easy solution to utilizing a high capacity baler is using a high capacity rake. What are you using now?


Right now we have a 7ish ft JD 350 3 pt roll-a-bar rake - which I like for our small irregular shaped fields. We can and do make larger windrows by combing the hay on multiple passes until we are satisfied with the windrow size - but we will upgrade the rake at some point too.

Thanks!
Bill


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## FarmerCline (Oct 12, 2011)

I don't think making the shorter bales will be an issue but light windrows might. I know my 5070 will make poor looking and short bales if not fed a good amount of hay. High ground speed and slowing the rpms down will help but you still need a decent windrow.


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## 8350HiTech (Jul 26, 2013)

It won't help bale consistency, but you can also look at the 570/5060 unless you're dead set on the wide pickup.

If you anticipate a regular occurrence of highly inconsistent hay (especially overly dry or slippery inconsistent hay), I would recommend some combination of air bag tension, bale skis, or inline baler. I am very happy with my 570 (on which I did update the fine tooth metering wheel to the cogged wheel) and I haven't had any major inconsistency issues, including Friday when I baled ten acres that yielded 100 bales. There was some density variation in those, which I did not find unexpected considering it only has OEM spring tension. Of course I had merged 60' of hay into windrows that weren't respectable but at least workable.


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## 8350HiTech (Jul 26, 2013)

Like I said, I like my baler. And the proximity to a good dealer. But if I was looking for an increase in capacity (over a 68) and was completely colorblind, something like this sure would be tempting. Good deals (I'm just going by shiny paint) pop up in all colors.

http://pittsburgh.craigslist.org/grd/5117151892.html


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## ARD Farm (Jul 12, 2012)

The difference between a 570 and a 575 are in the mechanicals. The 575 has 3 packer forks while the 70 has 2. The 575 has a heavier driveline and the 575 (I believe has a wider pickup). It also has a 6 ball twine box and the 70 is a 4 ball.

I have a 575 high capacity. It's one helluva bailer. It's also a PITA to change the reel drive belt (as I found out this year with Mike's help and PDF files).

Overall, it's the best bailer I ever owned. I have zero issues (except the reel drive belt and beltsdo break).

They are all gear drive to the knotters (big plus in my view) and they like to be loaded as stated above but with a properly raked (doubled or tripled windrow) to keep \ the bailer happy, it works just fine.

NH's are noted for variations in bale length. It's because when the knotter clutch dog engages, the bailer may be between ram cycles and then it will add a slice. I'm used to it.

I'd think hard about loosing the roper rake (roll-a-bar) and going to a rotary like a Kuhn Gyro, especially with a 70 or 75. Your windrows need to be full and uniform and that roper rake won't do that.

I run an ancient Geihl 260 (which is really a Pioneer before Pioneer had a rotary rake). Rotaries are no maintenance (other than checking the gearbox oil and greasing universal joints and have much more capability than a roper. I can double windrow by flipping up the swath curtain, a windrow width ideal for the 575.

If you have a sparse windrow with a 575, you feed the pickup at the far end and allow the packer forks to 'fluff the forage into the bale chamber. That yields a uniform bale along with increased ground speed.

If you look at a used one, check the needles. NH offered a hardened needle option and cased bill hooks (I have both). It's easy to tell by looking at the needles. if there is no wear on them on a used machine, chances are they are hardened. I also have the hydraulic tension option and I like it as well. Once set, it really needs little attention as the day wears on and moisture changes, the hydraulics keep things running smoothly.

One job, I bailed 3000 squares of wheat straw (from a combine in one day), just stopping to fill the twine box and having a cold water. Was nice straight windrows and nice straight bales dotted the field by sunset....

They like to be greased. I grease my knotter stack daily (every morning) with high quality synthetic grease and the rest of the bailer weekly.

Mine will typically 'miss\' a couple with the chamber empty of any already tied bales. It likes to be 'pushing' a bale so my first couple will always mis-tie. Used to that too.

The only weak point I know of is the 'Power Pivot' on the tongue. It's a PITA and noisy. Keep the spring tension in spec at all times and ignore it....

If you can buy one with the hydraulic tongue swing, do so. It's hard to open up from the transport position. I don't have that but a trip to TSC for a cylinder and hoses will eliminate that, this fall. I cuss everytime I have to open it up and then forget to add the cylinder....lol

I'm real happy with mine. I expect this bailer will outlast me.


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## ARD Farm (Jul 12, 2012)

8350HiTech said:


> It won't help bale consistency, but you can also look at the 570/5060 unless you're dead set on the wide pickup.
> 
> If you anticipate a regular occurrence of highly inconsistent hay (especially overly dry or slippery inconsistent hay), I would recommend some combination of air bag tension, bale skis, or inline baler. I am very happy with my 570 (on which I did update the fine tooth metering wheel to the cogged wheel) and I haven't had any major inconsistency issues, including Friday when I baled ten acres that yielded 100 bales. There was some density variation in those, which I did not find unexpected considering it only has OEM spring tension. Of course I had merged 60' of hay into windrows that weren't respectable but at least workable.


I added (but I don't recommend it because your mileage may vary) a chunk of die plate cut and slotted (3 pounds) with 2 tapped holes and capscrews to affix it to the trip arm. That keeps the arm from bouncing when it returns to home and improves the consistency too.

I imagine you could use a rarp strap as well (if yoiu like the cobbly look).... I painted mine NH red. Looks like it belongs there....

Damn good bailer btw.


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## VA Haymaker (Jul 1, 2014)

Thanks everyone for your comments! Very helpful info.

Bill


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