# Want first hand operational knowledge of Hoelscher's Accumulator and Grapple



## darwood (Jun 7, 2010)

I'm looking into buying a Hoelscher model 1000 accumulator and model 100 grapple. I would like to get any first hand operational knowledge from folks on here. Specifically what tractor and baler are in front of the accumulator and what tractor is attached to the grapple.

If I purchase;

I am planning to pull the accumulator behind a New Holland TL 90 4wd cab tractor and a New Holland 320 hayliner square baler. This baler is the high capacity baler. Plunger makes up to 110 strokes a minute.

I am planning to attach the grapple to a New Holland TN 65 2wd open station tractor.

Any information on this particular Hoelscher equipment would be greatly appreciated. I just need some first hand experience. Thanks!!


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## slowzuki (Mar 8, 2011)

Not first hand but I have spent an embarrassing number of hours pouring over them and peoples feedback and the setup manuals for the Hoelscher accumulator as I wanted to buy one for a couple of years. I've forgotten a lot but...

-There are at least 3 generations: Green/white, red, and black.

The very newest black ones and the ones with the push arm upgrade kit are worlds ahead of the old ones but they still don't like baling behind a high cap baler run at max. I've read dozens upon dozens of complaints of trying to push a high cap baler with them. I have seen that their high cap baler run a bit slower actually works better because the bales are more consistent length. I'm not sure how your baler compares to a 575 or 5070, but you can't max those models out.

The problem is if you crank up the flow to try to get bales out of the way faster you throw the bales on the table messing up the pattern. The newer and modified return arms can spring past a bale coming out of the chamber on the way back down but it will eventually bite you and break bales.

Absolutely do not work on the thing without following the manual, in my searching I got to see a bunch of reports on people with mangled hands/arms and I think one death from tripping the pad and having the arm come up and hurt the person.

Many people don't know you can run them as a 15 bale instead of 10 by using short bales. Thats why I wanted one. Set to 15 bales they will load a 8 ft or 102" trailer crossways perfectly.

The company gl nause that makes the arm kit can also modify them to hold more bales across the tilt bed, I think 6 16" bale or 7 14" bales?

The TN 65 would handle the 10 bale grapple with a touch of weight on the back. Its not heavy enough to handle a big Steffens 15 bale with extension. I've seen the results of the big steffens on a heavy 65 hp tractor with 2500 lb rated JD loader. Pulled rods out of the cylinders, brokens pins, booms, welds etc. The smallest I've seen an 8 bale on was a MF235 and it was fine. The TN is a good 2000 lbs heavier than a 235.

For the baler tractor, a TL 90 is just a bit lighter than my MF5455 4wd cab tractor. I can pull my JD 336 with 250-280 bales on the wagon up and down our steepest hills. They are steep enough you can't go across them with the wagon loaded. I do need 4wd when the ground is soft because the wagon sinks in. The wagon is about 8 tons loaded, the accumulator I think is only about 1700 lbs with 10 bales on it? You would be fine.


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## LaneFarms (Apr 10, 2010)

I am pulling mine behind a NH 5070 baler and a 7130 JD tractor. I have grapples on a NH TD5050 2wd and a JD 6430. From my experience if you have enough tractor to pull the baler the accumulator doesn't add that much to it other than the extra length. I pulled my old baler a 328 JD behind a TL 100 2wd and had no problems. As for the grapples the TD has the capacity to handle it but the front end design is junk and will probably not last long. The 6430 is awesome for handling the grapple but is a little hard to see off of in the field.


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## gradyjohn (Jul 17, 2012)

We run a red on behind a JD348 Wire. Consistency in the bales is the key to perfection. That is accomplished by consistency in the windrow. If you get a clump that extends a bale that can throw off the timing of the trip arm. When is returns it can snag the next bale coming out of the chamber and break a wire or u shape it. Keep your flow as low as possible because full flow will throw the bales accross the table. I perfer an off the ground accumulator. Ours does 10 at a time ... helps with counting in the field. I would get the newer black if I were you. Their support is good also. You can email me and I can send you my phone # if you have any questions.


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## Mike120 (May 4, 2009)

I run a black one behind a JD baler pulled with a Ford 7710. I have also pulled the baler/accumulator with a JD 5325 with no problems. I use the grapple on the JD. I assume your TN 65 weighs about the same as my JD. I have picked up bales without a counterweight, but it's a lot more stable with about 800# hanging on the rear. I've had very few problems with mine and I'm very happy with it.


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## cmsc (Feb 14, 2010)

I run a nh5070 hay liner with the new black accumulator on a mf5455 new problems love it. I can bale up to 300 bales an hour easy. The key to it is consistentance. I can bale twice as fast with the nh5070 hay liner and black accumalator then I could with a nh575 and red accumulator. I run a wilmar wrangler wheel loader in field and a nh ls170 skid in barn. Had a 2030 jd like 10 years ago on grapple and need to add lots of weight to rear end of tractor. I would want a fwa on loader if I waste use tractor again to load. The wilmar wrangler is awesome to stack in field with.


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## darwood (Jun 7, 2010)

I greatly appreciate the feedback. I bit the bullet and bought a model 1000 accumulator and a model 100 grapple.

My tl 90 will be fine to run the accumulator. I'll run about 15 gpm on the hydraulics so the arm shouldn't throw the bales off the table. My bale length should be ok as well. I make about a 34 inch bale.

The tn 65 that I'm going to run the grapple with is maybe marginal on weight. So I'll add weight with a box blade or something.

Thanks again anymore feedback is welcomed.


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## Mike120 (May 4, 2009)

Just build a steel box with a rod through it for the lower lift arms and a hitch for the top link and then fill it with concrete. Makes a decent counterweight that stays out of the way.


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