# New Holland T4.75



## MtnHerd (Jul 6, 2011)

I am looking at a couple of used New Holland T4.75’s. One is a 2013 model and one is a 2014 model. From what I am seeing on tractordata.com, these are the last two years of the tier 3 engine for this model. So does this mean they do not have some of the pain in the butt emission controls on them, or do they have some other emission control that will be an issue? They both have the park in the transmission instead of the parking brake. I have heard that can be a problem on them, especially parking on a hill or trying to hook up implements. Any other issues to look out for? I am mainly looking for this tractor to be operated by my dad helping in hay, some minor tillage, loader work, and feeding in the winter. I like where they have decent weight to get work done, but not so heavy as to be a problem to frequently trailer to different sites. Also, the cabs seem to be very nice on them. Thanks!


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## Vol (Jul 5, 2009)

https://www.tractorbynet.com/guide/NewHolland/PowerStarT475/reviews

Regards, Mike


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## MtnHerd (Jul 6, 2011)

Thanks, looks like those reviewers either loved them or hated them, no in between.


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## CaseIH (Feb 6, 2016)

For what its worth I have the Case version of this tractor. Its 6 years old and has about 1600 hours on it.

My two cents...

Transmission from day one has been lack luster, jerky as all get out and when it gets hot, shuttling bales or running a disk mower it has a tendency to throw an alarm and will stop you in your tracks. I'm not a mechanic but the transmission oil cooler appears way undersized. Then the little (but expensive) stuff, Ac compressor went out a 1300 hours, cable controllers for the loader and clutch have been constant issues, and when the clutch cable goes again your sitting, she will not move....

Also replaced the fan and AC compressor belts around 1000 hours, for what ever reason it was chewing them up, and believe me that is not nearly as simply of a job as it sounds.

Then the maintenance, oil changes and filter changes are really no fun either, everything is so dang jammed in under that hood its a real bear.

In my humble opinion it hasn't been the worst tractor ever but man it could be so much better, they cheapened out in all the wrong places.....

If I had to do it all over go a little older and get something you can actually work on, back in the days when they still built equipment....

Anyways good luck.


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## MtnHerd (Jul 6, 2011)

Thanks for the information! I have found a TL90A with about the same hours for the same money. It is a little heavier and bigger, so it will not be as maneuverable or as easily trailed, but still shouldn’t be a deal breaker. I am thinking that it might be a better direction to go, even though no buddy seat and the cab is not as quite.


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## Beav (Feb 14, 2016)

We have a T4-95 same basic tractor just a little bigger then the T4-75 we used it to run all our hay equipment but mostly tedder rake and round baler. No loader or FWA has a filter for emissions no DEF have 600 hours with no problems so far.


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## Stxpecans123 (May 18, 2020)

Old thread but I have a 12 or 13 Farmall 75c. It's a no emissions tractor. Picked it up last year, fwa and loader open station. It was hard to find an open station but I needed that. Paid $17,000 for 1300hr tractor last fall. Now has about 2200 hrs. I have driven it maybe 50 hrs of that, other than that have had hired hands drive it. Not my favorite tractor but gets the job done. It spends it's life now as a grapple/loader tractor and a pecan shaker tractor during harvest of small trees.


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## MtnHerd (Jul 6, 2011)

It seemed there about as many negative reviews for the T4.75's as there were good ones. I ended up getting a 2008 Kubota M7040 for about $6,000 less with hydraulic shuttle and fewer hours. The biggest problem is it had been sitting for a long time. They put new tires on it right before they sold it, so that was good, but I have had to do a lot of little stuff to get it loosened up again. Changed all fluids, filters, etc and it runs really great. Only big issue is the air conditioner does not get cold. It is just a little bit of cold air coming out, which works for now, but later in the year will be horrible. I cleaned out the condenser and the radiator screens, which were very dirty, but it didnt make any difference. I haven't checked yet, but it may be low on refrigerant. I will be dping that next, and if it still doesn't work I guess to the shop it goes, gotta get Dad some AC before we start putting up dry hay.

I did have soemthing funny happen. I used it the first two weeks I had it running disc mower and baler baling rye into silage, and hydraulic remotes ran fine. I hooked it up to the wrapper and wraped about 30 rolls of hay and when I went to unhook the hydraulic lines would not release. I made sure several times all of the pressure was off, but they would not come apart. I finally tool the hoses off of the wrapper and remote ports off of the tractor and had to put them in a vice and beat them apart. After that the little bearings in tractor quick attach remote ports are solid, and I can't hook anything up. I have ordered 2 new ones and will be putting them on, but I do not know how both would seize up at the same time after working perfect for 2 weeks.


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## somedevildawg (Jun 20, 2011)

That is strange....those quick couplings can be quite the PITA sometimes. I’m now in the habit of always shutting the tractor down and relieving pressure before disconnecting....I bet they’re not as pricey as Deere....I think they are $112 ea from them


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## Tx Jim (Jun 30, 2014)

Mtnherd

I'll bet the refrigerant is low on your M7040 ac system. I own an '11 M7040 that cools fine in the Texas summer high humidity weather.


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## Stxpecans123 (May 18, 2020)

We have some 8540s same tractor basic tractor. Behind the seat is a cabin air filter, bet yours is dirty. It is in a plastic housing that has a handle on it so to say. Anyways check that. 
I guess you bought it new since you said the dealer changed the tires? Amazing there is one on the lot still has to be 6 years or more since they changed models. 
Things to watch out for, when turning off any PTO equipment with alot of rotating mass always idle down first. Those have pretty weak PTO stop brakes. You have to split the tractor to change. But you can update the part from a 60 series which is more beefed up.
Also make sure your 1-4 (if it's an 8 spd) gear shift lever stays adjusted. Ours gets out of adjustment and makes it more difficult to change gears. And I think that is the main reason so many have taken out 3rd gear. The one we have that lost 3rd gear didn't get adjusted for awhile and I think that was the main issue.
I understand your frustrations with the hydralic quick connects have had to replace all of ours atleast once. And all of ours have needed new hydralic outlet valves. They begin to leak through the main shaft and they are non serviceable to my knowledge. I think our highest hour one is about 5k now maybe more. They will probably leave soon.


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## slowzuki (Mar 8, 2011)

My Massey ones are terrible for getting dirt in the coupler body when plugged in and locking onto the male end. I’ve taken them apart and cleaned them but that needs repeated every 1000 hours or so.


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## Tx Jim (Jun 30, 2014)

Stxpecans123 said:


> We have some 8540s same tractor basic tractor. Behind the seat is a cabin air filter, bet yours is dirty. It is in a plastic housing that has a handle on it so to say. Anyways check that.


I'll add did you check/clean cab outside filter located at left rear outside of cab?


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## MtnHerd (Jul 6, 2011)

The quick couplings ended up being $90 a piece. Not as expensive as your John Deere's, but not too cheap either.

No, it is not a new tractor, just bought it used from a dealer. The filter in the cab was pretty clean, and the one on the outside was brand new. When I looked at the sight glass like it says to in the manual there are a lot of bubbles showing whenever the compressor kicks on, which the manual says means it is low on coolant. I had an old AC Pro bottle from Advanced Auto with the gauge that I tried to use yesterday. It showed it being a little low, but not bad, but I couldn't get it to take refrigerant. I have a separate gauge that use use with the actual bottles of refrigerating, but it is a hour and half away in my other tractor that is in the shop getting a clutch replaced. I will try to borrow someone else's and see if what I was using was the problem or if the tractor just won't take refrigerant. Thanks for all of the feedback!

On another note, I was hesitant over the Kubota initially due to the weight difference between it and the New Holland, plus all we had ever had were Fords or smaller (45 - 60 hp) John Deere's. When I first got it I had problems just moving a few pallets around the farm due to the rear ended feeling light. The dealership that had put the new tires on did not fluid fill them, and I knew I was going to have to do it when I bought it, but after using it was afraid that wasn't going to be enough weight. I ended up finding a place about and hour and a half from me that had started selling rimguard. Had never had any dealers anywhere close before. And the price was the same as the local tire shop putting in the water methanol blend. After getting the rimguard in it has made a HUGE difference in how the tractor works. Loaded 4x5 haylage bales no problem, pulled the baler with no issue, and used an 8 foot spring tooth to work up several acres of vegetable ground. The spring tooth worked the tractor pretty good, but it was hp it ran out of before weight. Just wanted to add that in case anyone else is hesitant regarding the weight of these. I haven't had it on some of our steep hay ground with the baler doing haylage yet, which I hope I don't have to. That's what the bigger Ford is for, around 14,500 lbs makes it much more stable with weight behind it on a slope.


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