# Barn Floor for Small Square Storage



## John (Oct 6, 2009)

I am currently building a 44'x80' pole building for small square bales using a stackwagon. The building is built up above the surrounding grade about 14 inches. The fill is sand. I am considering putting 4-6 inches of crusher run on top of the sand. I'm looking for some input on these plans and the use of a vapor barrier. Any help would be great. We are located in upstate NY, moisture is an issue.


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## Production Acres (Jul 29, 2008)

IF you are confident that the floor will remain dry and will not wick moisture up out of the ground - you said it was 14" above grade - by all means do not put a vapor barrier. The majority of moisture problems on bottom bales of hay(in barns with dry floor) come from the moisture in the hay stack itself being pulled by gravity to the bottom of the stack. This moisture must have a way to leave the stack - either by pallets, straw, going on thru the rock or sand, etc. If that moisture is allowed to remain in the bottom of the hay stack, it will mold/mildew.


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## hay wilson in TX (Jan 28, 2009)

4 inches of crushed rock will work just great. Here we like what is called septic tank rock.

Will be stacking 4 stacks wide?

How high will the rafters or trusses be? I like 17 feet as it gives room to walk around on top of the stacks if using a pull type machine or still have room for a self propelled stacker to be used.


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## chief-fan (Aug 27, 2009)

I would forget the crusher run and put apllets down to put your hay on. Like Haymaster siad, the moisture comes from the top to the bottom bales. The pallets allows for air to circulate under the btoom layer and disperse the moisture. You will have to allow for the extra 4" of floor height of the pallets on the stackwagon or you will tear your pallets up.


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## John (Oct 6, 2009)

The trusses are 18ft above finish floor height. I was also thinking of putting a chaff layer on top of the stone.


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## John (Oct 6, 2009)

I am also thinking of putting down a mulch layer of hay. I will be stacking four wide. I recently purchased the stackwagon, as previously I had 2nd floor storage and used a kicker on a NH320 and basket wagons.


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## chief-fan (Aug 27, 2009)

You will like the stack wagon if your hay field is on fairly level ground. If it is very rolling or terraced, you will hate it. I used a 1010 one year on rolling ground and could only pick up the bales when on the up hill side. If they were on the down hill side they stand on end and bounce and not fall onto the table. Could only load going one way. Wasted a lot of time.Hope you have good luck with yours.


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## ButchAutomatic (Jun 4, 2008)

When I built my barns I make 20' sidewalls so when I dump the stackwagon I have room to stack more hay on top when space is getting tight. The top is hand stacked but better than putting hay outside.


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## sedurbin (May 30, 2009)

> I am also thinking of putting down a mulch layer of hay. I will be stacking four wide. I recently purchased the stackwagon, as previously I had 2nd floor storage and used a kicker on a NH320 and basket wagons.


I think the mulch layer will hold moisture, from the hay, and cause mold. Better to stack on the rocks or on pallets. IMHO


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## mlappin (Jun 25, 2009)

I wouldn't put any mulch hay down, once it picks up some moisture it will never dry out. We used to put down like 6 inches of crushed corn cobs when stacking small squares on the cement.


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## hay wilson in TX (Jan 28, 2009)

You will regret ever thinking of pallets. Great place for snakes to hide for one. With one of the newer bale wagons, pallets just do not work worth a hoot. I used them when using the older NH 1010 and NH 1002, but there is no way a 1003 or 1033 of later machine will. Not if you want to get in and out of the barn with dispatch.

Never fear on chaff, as where I stack bermudagrass there is plenty of chaff that accumulates. Under alfalfa now there is very little chaff accumulation.

I normally use a blade and shape the rock base so the stacks will lean in on their selves. 
I have painted white stripes on the bulkhead where the opening between stacks should be. Also paint stripes on the trusses where the spaces between the stacks should be. Gives you something to aim by.

I have used at the same time both a 1010 & my wife on the 1002. I got lots of exercise setting a 1010 stack in the barn. 
I never found the single bale unload option of any use. It was quicker to just dump the stack and handle the hay in the barn if we had to. It can be a one man job that way, if necessary. 
I like the spring return of the load rack on the 1002 & 1003 machines.

OBTW with some hard driving rains I have had water coming out from the french drains under the barn floor.

18 foot clearance is a great thing to have!!!!!!

My original hay barn was 96' long with a bulkhead in the center to lean the first stacks against, and 36" width. When I found out how to use fertilizer, for this soil and climate, that barn soon became too small.


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