# NEw Holland 570- Pulling my hair out



## Febrink (Feb 15, 2012)

Ok guy and gals here we go again down mechanic lane. I just purchased a New Holland 570 from a farmer. The baler looked great and he ran it for me and it worked fine. I paid for it drove home with it and was excited to hit the field with it. First field was under the old owners settings Bales were a little long and since I am using KUHN accumulator I had to back the pressure off and shorten the bales.

Then the problems started. go figure. I started breaking shear pins. At first I just thought I had clogged the chute as I was baling in some thicker grass hay. I replaced the shear pin and cleaned out the chamber. Fired it up and Pop pen broke. I got to looking and found the spring that holds the tie actuator in place was broken. I went to local farm store as dealer was closed. They had one very close to the broken one. Replaced the spring reset the needles and was off again. made it twenty feet till shear pen broke again. I got to looking and can not find the reason. It seems that every time I start and the plunger comes forward I am hitting the safety catch so it so wont break . The needles. I am super frustrated and help out there?


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## Tx Jim (Jun 30, 2014)

Sounds as if needles need to be moved to home position. If you don't have an operators manual you need to get one & read it.


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## Febrink (Feb 15, 2012)

Had a long post added to this and lost it.

Basically what I have realized is the needles are not going completely into the home position. I have no idea why this is happening, but it is causing the safety catch to activate every time the needles work. I don't know if there is a shear pen that is sheared for the needles/ knotters. My baler looks similar to the one in Stuckey 1's NH570 thread. ( second pic) I am calling the local dealer tom to see if they have any ideas. The scary thing is there is a 40 percent chance of rain tonight and I am custom baling this field. Any ideas guys give me a shout please.


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## Febrink (Feb 15, 2012)

Tx Jim said:


> Sounds as if needles need to be moved to home position. If you don't have an operators manual you need to get one & read it.


Tx Jim, I have the operators manual but it does not tell you how to time the needles. It omits basically the most useful stuff in my humble opinion they want you to take it to the dealer for repair.


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## Tx Jim (Jun 30, 2014)

JD sq baler operators manuals having timing procedure so I thought NH OM would contain timing info.but here's what I located on Google.HTH'sJim


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## Tx Jim (Jun 30, 2014)

Look to be sure needle lift shear bolt(parts key 39) or trip dog spring(parts key 54) is intact


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## Febrink (Feb 15, 2012)

Thanks TX Jim ,

Ill be back at it first thing in the morning. Ill let ya know what I find out with it. If I cant figure it out in the morning Im dragging it to the shop and telling them to fix it. Repair bill may be high but I have got to get into the fields.


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## Tx Jim (Jun 30, 2014)

Look to be sure needle lift shear bolt(parts key 39) or trip dog spring(parts key 54) is intact. Sorry but I inadvertently cut off the #54 but it's the spring in the lower LH corner of parts photo.


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## Teslan (Aug 20, 2011)

Doest the baler have a timing diagram inside the door on the front of the baler above the pickup? My last couple of NH did.


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## Febrink (Feb 15, 2012)

Teslan,

Ill be honest I don't know. I don't remember seeing one but that does not mean there is not one. I am at work right now or I would check. You can bet I will be checking that as well in the morning.

Tx Jim, Where on earth did you find that last photo I search and cant find hardly anything relating to the 570 unless you want to buy one on tractor house.


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## mike10 (May 29, 2011)

There are two springs in the area you describe. There is a small spring @ 1/2" in diameter on the clutch dog. There is a heavier spring on the trip lever linkage. If the heavier spring broke, you will have damage to the trip lever pivot support and the lever that pivots in it. If that happens the clutch dog will not contract the knotter stop properly.


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## Febrink (Feb 15, 2012)

mike10 said:


> There are two springs in the area you describe. There is a small spring @ 1/2" in diameter on the clutch dog. There is a heavier spring on the trip lever linkage. If the heavier spring broke, you will have damage to the trip lever pivot support and the lever that pivots in it. If that happens the clutch dog will not contract the knotter stop properly.


It was the bigger spring. Now Im at a loss on following your damage assessment, Trip lever pivot support? trying to find it on the New Holland parts sight but not having any luck


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## Tx Jim (Jun 30, 2014)

Febrink

Having worked in a JD parts dept off & on for over 21 yrs It's probably easier for me locate parts than a novice. To find NH parts I just type NH parts in Google search.

http://agriculture.newholland.com/us/en/Pages/homepage.aspx

570 baler parts catalog

http://partstore.agriculture.newholland.com/us/parts-search.html#epc::mr66998

parts key 30 spring is PN 86640793

parts key 54 spring is PN 18

pivot lever support Mike referred to is I THINK parts key 32


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## catskinner (Jul 7, 2014)

Check your brake disc by the knotters, sometimes grease or chaff can cause the brake to slip causing the needles to bounce, and move out of the home position.


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## 8350HiTech (Jul 26, 2013)

Many HT users use Messick's website (or app) to locate NH (and other brands) parts.


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## Coondle (Aug 28, 2013)

When a shear bolt breaks the FIRST thing to do is to pull the needles back to home position. Do this by standing on the left side of the machine and pulling the needle yoke upward and backward. Until this is done the needle protection latch will remain in the plunger crank path and you will break another shear bolt without the machine doing even one stroke.

Once needles are in home position replace the shear bolt and turn the machine over by hand .

Make sure the needle protection latch is leaving and returning fully to home position. Home position is with the left edge of the latch level with or no more than 1/8 inch outside the baler frame. This is found directly below the rear of the main gearbox on the left side.

Left and right are determined by standing at the rear of the baler looking forward.

Adjustment of the latch involves releasing the lock-nuts on the left arm of the needle yoke and moving the bolt that goes through the arm. Limited adjustment is available at this location. If more adjustment is needed, trip the knotter so the needle protection latch becomes loose, remove the pin in the small cable yoke, unlock the lock nut on the cable yoke adjust the length by turning the cable yoke. Tighten lock nut replace pin and return knotter to home.

Turn baler by hand rechecking operation and clearances.

While in this area ensure the needle protection latch spring is in good condition.

Needle to plunger timing is next.

Contrary to popular belief the needles actually enter the chamber when the plunger is passing the needle tips.

Recalling that there is something else to check.

Check if the needle slots in the plunger are clear.

NOW:

Turning the baler by hand and with the knotter tripped , the needles enter the chamber just after the leading triangular extended part of the bottom of the plunger has passed.

THis is critical. the needles enter between 1/4 inc and 3/4 inch afer these tips pass the needle tips.

OR

Check the timing through the timing marks.

Open the lid on top of the plunger crank compartment at the front of the machine and behind the flywheel.

Looking down in there on the left side on the frame are two indented marks like someone has hit it with a cold chisel. Turn the nachine by bhand and place the crank arm in between these marks.

ALWAYS but ALWAYS turn the machine in the correct direction, ie flywheel clockwise in direction of arrow.

Open the left side door revealing the knotter drive.

In the knotter clutch at the bottom is a lever hanging down, this is the knotter pawl stop. Make sure the clutch pawl is against that stop. To get any backlash out go to the right side of the knotter stack and pull rearward on the needle yoke rod.

Going back to the left side of the knotter stack you will find two marks, one on the outer wheel or hub of the knotter clutch and one on the inner wheel or clutch gear which is next to the large cast drive cog.

These mars should be within 1/4 inch of each other. If not ( no pun intended) adjust.

Adjustment is achieved by going to the front of the baler above and just behind the flywheel.

Loosen the main drive chain so that cogs can be skipped. I do not recommend removing the chain but you may have to.

Turn the big long drive shaft until the marks on the knotter clutch gear and the outer hub align.

Retighten the main drive chain.

Oh I should have mentioned, the idler adjustment is found under the frame near the main gearbox input shaft immediately behind the flywheel.

Trip the knotter and turn the machine by hand to ensure timing is set correctly.

If you can't follow this I will try and get some pictures, but I am a technophobe.


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## Coondle (Aug 28, 2013)

catskinner said:


> Check your brake disc by the knotters, sometimes grease or chaff can cause the brake to slip causing the needles to bounce, and move out of the home position.


This is also good advice,

Make sure all mounts are secure, a loose mount lets the brake move and the needles move allowing the needle protection latch to enter the path of the plunger crank and shear bolt goes again.

Also check that the brake is free of charf and lubricant of any sort.

The brake linings are spring loaded and adjustable, spring length should be 1 1/4 inches, too tight and knotter shear bolt will break.

There is one nut on the left of the knotter brake for each of the two springs.


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## mike10 (May 29, 2011)

Hopefully the pdf file will upload. If it does then the two parts which will be damaged if spring # 30 breaks are Items 24 and 32. They will be twisted out of position, Unless you caught the broken spring before the knotter cycled, I have seen no exceptions to damage being done to these parts when that spring breaks. Did the knotter shearbot also fail?


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## Febrink (Feb 15, 2012)

My assembly is slightly different then the one in the diagram. If you look at Stucky 1's second picture in the NH570 thread you will see what my part 42 looks like. There is no shear bolt in my part 42. I'm having a hard time finding it if it is in fact there. part 32 was in fact bent and I straightened it out the best I could. So what I am hearing is if it is just slightly out of wack it could be my problem.

I will be posting pictures if I can figure out how tom evening. I will take pics in the morning but will be busy working on the baler. I want to see if we can figure this out.

Thanks everyone for the input and advice it has not fallen on deaf ears.


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## Coondle (Aug 28, 2013)

The shear bolt on the knotter in Stucky 1's photo 2 is almost obscured by the hub rim. The shear bolt is at the 2 o'clock position in the above picture's orientation.file:///Users/kevinhogg/Desktop/post-20836-0-30944300-1403976135_thumb.jpg

Looking very carefully you can just see the darkening of a corner of the bolt over the edge of the hub

The shear bolt goes through a hole in a tab that sticks out from the hub. The hub sits snug up against the knotter drive cog. The knotter drive cog has three large holes at 120 degrees apart. Mid-way between two of these large holes is the small hole that the shear bolt goes through. The bolt must be tight to prevent slop and the hub and cog working at chafing through the shear bolt.

Having a spring break may signal time to check all springs, the very most important is the needle protection latch spring.

Back to the Knotter shear bolt

Once the main (Flywheel) shear bolt is replaced turn the flywheel backward by hand

Return the needles to home by pulling sharply up on the needle yoke at the left side of the baler

rotate the flywheel by hand and align the hole in the knotter clutch with the hole in the knotter drive gear...install new knotter shear bolt and reset the knotter by returning the trip arm to home position. To do this pull the trip arm backward against the spring pressure and lower it until it contacts the bale length adjustment stop.

Back to my earlier post on timing the knotter and adjusting the needle protection latch:

Click here to view new holland timing

There are 8 photos

1 shows the crank timing marks, the front one is a little hard to see but look carefully and the white mark is aligned with the front of the crank.

2 the main chain from thecfront of the gearbox, the idler adjusting nut is above and to the left of centre, partly obscured

3 knotter marks, pointed at, the knotter shear bolt is clearly visible above my finger

4 brake spring adjustment

5 yoke rod

6 cable adjuster with lock not that locks the bolt below allowing fine adjustment of the knotter protection latch

7 pivot point for the fine cable adjuster and also the pivot point for the knotter yoke

8 cable yoke for large adjustment


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## mike10 (May 29, 2011)

The part breakdown line drawings are hard to decipher sometimes, however, the only difference you should see between the parts breakdown and what you have are the renditions of the knotter assys.

You do have a knotter shear bolt in item 42 or at least it would be there if not sheared. What happens when you break that spring is you bend those two parts I indicated before and shear the knotter shear bolt. When the knotter shear bolt shears it will also cause the flywheel shear bolt to shear, or at least it should if everything is working as designed.

The plate where the tube on item 24 is welded, where item 32 goes into, will bend backwards. That tube needs to be 90 degrees to the plate it is welded to. Take a large adjustable wrench and place the jaws over the tube and bend the mounting plate back into position.


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## S10491112 (Apr 11, 2013)

The knoter needs to reset take the hay out of the bale chamber and reset the knoter. the cam that is on the knoter arm has rotaded 180 deg and is telling the knoter to make a knot.


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## Febrink (Feb 15, 2012)

Tis fixed! You ever look at something so long you miss the obvious?


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## Febrink (Feb 15, 2012)

Here it is


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