# Batteries what's better post top or bolt top



## Farmerbrown2 (Sep 25, 2018)

I'm getting new battery cables made and new batteries what is less maintenance regular posts or the type with 3/8 nut . It seems I have to clean battery posts twice a year even if I use terminal cleaner and the protective spray . Would it help if I installed a master switch to eliminate any chance of electric draw .


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## slowzuki (Mar 8, 2011)

I find the dirt and oil that gets on the top of batteries causes the bloom on the top. The ones in tight battery boxes rarely get it. The rubber covers on the cables help too.


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## somedevildawg (Jun 20, 2011)

Nut/bolt is a more reliable connection IMO..... the posts have more surface area but, generally speaking, are harder to get tight on the post. Also much easier to "tap" a nut/bolt connection.....always a bit difficult on top post batteries given the terminals. Put a penny next to the top post and adhere it with some windshield putty, leaking electrolytes will corrode the penny first....least that's what we used to do, anymore I look at replacing the battery. Hth


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## mlappin (Jun 25, 2009)

Stud posts are much more reliable, on any of the equipment if they don't already have em we switch em to stud post when a new battery(s) are required.


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## JD3430 (Jan 1, 2012)

My JCB Fastrac (yes, Cummins actually stooped low enough to sell JCB the 5.9L Cummins for it) was really low on starting power so I took the batteries out and I was shocked to see they were from 2005!! Damn, that's an old battery!

Anyway, I replaced the batteries with 2 new Interstate group 31 top post batteries and it was like you needed rubber coated tools to not get shocked installing them. The compartment is in the cab under the right side console. You kind of have to reach in there with socket extensions and when on the positive terminals be very careful of the metal compartment.


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## Wethay (Jul 17, 2015)

I've had the clamp end on break a couple times on post type cables. Some of my stuff it's difficult to get a wrench on the clamp bolt. Top post seems to be easier to get at most of the time.


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## mike10 (May 29, 2011)

The batteries with the studs are more resistant to corrosion if the battery cables have a cap to cover the post. I prefer the stud type batteries because of ease of attaching and removing cables, but they are not perfect either. Once corrosion sets in it is harder to clean the battery cables since the corrosion will get under the cable insulation around the battery cable end. I think factory cables made for a stud battery are better than cables made in the field since the insulation around the cable end helps to seal the post from corrosion especially if they have the top cap. Cables made in the field will be easier to clean when corrosion sets in but it is more likely to have corrosion with field made cables.


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## YODA (Oct 24, 2013)

JD3430 said:


> My JCB Fastrac (yes, Cummins actually stooped low enough to sell JCB the 5.9L Cummins for it) was really low on starting power so I took the batteries out and I was shocked to see they were from 2005!! Damn, that's an old battery!
> 
> Anyway, I replaced the batteries with 2 new Interstate group 31 top post batteries and it was like you needed rubber coated tools to not get shocked installing them. The compartment is in the cab under the right side console. You kind of have to reach in there with socket extensions and when on the positive terminals be very careful of the metal compartment.


You do know to put the positive on first and then the negative when installing, and when coming out, take the negative off first. That way there is no short/shock potential with your tools.

Hope this helps


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## JD3430 (Jan 1, 2012)

YODA said:


> You do know to put the positive on first and then the negative when installing, and when coming out, take the negative off first. That way there is no short/shock potential with your tools.
> 
> Hope this helps


Yes, it was a situation with jumping the old tractor batteries and tightening the terminals that were constantly coming loose. When installing and retightening the cables, I was afraid of touching socket extension from one battery to another.

Nerve racking when the jumper cables were on the terminals, too.


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## carcajou (Jan 28, 2011)

Gotta be extra careful with that. I have had a couple batteries blow up before and it definitely ruined my day.


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## JD3430 (Jan 1, 2012)

carcajou said:


> Gotta be extra careful with that. I have had a couple batteries blow up before and it definitely ruined my day.


My international tri axle had easily accessible studs with safety covers under the battery cover for jump starting.


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## labdwakin (Jun 21, 2016)

I used to build telephone switches with HUGE -48V power plants (think 10,000 amps). We used the grease style no-ox (oxidation retardant) when I did that kind of work. I ended up with a LOT of no-ox when I quit doing that kind of work and have been using it on every power connection ever since.

Things to remember:

A) any electrical connection between two surfaces that aren't the same alloy gets a good coating.

B) completely cover all surfaces BEFORE mating so that the no-ox gets squeezed out and you have an air-tight seal so they can't oxidate.

C) the grease type works the best but can be runny if it gets much over 200 degrees farenheit so bear that in mind, a lot is good but too much can be a helluva mess.

D) Be sure you torque your connections down enough to get good contact.

All of these things together will extend your battery life and the dependability of any type of mechanical connector. I don't use any on spade connectors because they very rarely corrode and connectors like that sometimes don't have enough tension to displace the no-ox and make a good connection.


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## Farmerbrown2 (Sep 25, 2018)

Thanks for all the replies guys.

LAbdwakin is no-ox the same as dielectric grease but more of a commercial grade and a little more tacky.


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## labdwakin (Jun 21, 2016)

farmerbrown said:


> Thanks for all the replies guys.
> 
> LAbdwakin is no-ox the same as dielectric grease but more of a commercial grade and a little more tacky.


Here's the stuff you want on Ebay... the tube form is the easiest to deal with, less mess.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Cosmoline-Rust-Corrosion-Proof-Preventative-Guns-Boats-8-oz-NO-OX-ID-Qty-1-/282219469255?hash=item41b59759c7:g:NkkAAOxyiRlSbh48


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## Vol (Jul 5, 2009)

Just ordered a tube.

Regards, Mike


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## YODA (Oct 24, 2013)

You folks may laugh at this, but a long time back I was visiting my wife's grandparents. Keep in mind they were poor Mississippi farmers. He passed away shortly after our visit - this was back in the early 80's.

He had a big old IH tractor that was a cantankerous beast to say the least - used it to move hay to the cows. Anyway to make a long story short, his battery cable terminals were the old lead type and had a lot of brass screws around the top between the post and the cable clamp. When I asked he said he got tired of the cables coming loose over time, so "Fixed It" I can still see that battery post with the brass screws neatly placed around it. Even though I was a Yank as he put it, I was accepted - still have problems with the language down there when we visit relatives.  

The other contraption was his original welder. It was a bank of about a dozen big truck batteries all wired up. He said it worked great, but took days to charge up. He had (my father in law now has it) a good diesel run one now that is also used as a backup generator. Im guessing 60's vintage They live in the boonies about 2 hours south of Jackson


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