# Round bale silage questions



## Cornykid (Jul 24, 2011)

I am looking for some information on making bale silage. Going to use an individual wrapper. In doing research I have differing ideas/information on some of my questions. What are the benefits of making silage bales at 50%-60% moisture compared to a lower moisture content? What does fermenting do to the nutritional content of the material being baled? If you bale at a lower moisture content, does it hurt the nutritional content of the hay? Does anyone have some bale weights at differing size and moisture contents? Thanks,


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## Texasmark (Dec 20, 2011)

I can't help with the first questions but JD makes a 9 something series baler specifically designed for the task. The ad, on the JD site says it's built to stand up to the increased weight.

I think it's a great idea. I haven't seen any around here as the locals use ground storage with a big white plastic tarp. I did see some locals cutting corn silage and they cut an active growing, very green and tall plant with visible ears, and shot the chopped up remains into a wagon alongside.

I guess they dumped it and covered immediately. Moisture? Must have been pretty high. I have seen these same covered piles in the early spring when it is almost gone and it is brown. But the cows are lined up at the feed trough waiting for their share.

Wish I could help but that's all I know.

Mark


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## aawhite (Jan 16, 2012)

Moisture affects fermentation. We usually tried to keep bales around 55%. We cut for silage bags at the high end of 60%, but bales didn't come out as well at that moisture. Wrong type of bacterial growth, silage comes out smelling rank and cows don't like it. Moisture too low, and microbial activity stops, end up with mold growth.

We baled with a JD 568, bales coming off at around 3,000 lbs. We also applied a silage innoculant thru our preservative applicator.


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## discbinedr (Mar 4, 2013)

I agree. Everything over 68 % is going to be a little rank, and anythig under 40% is going to have more mold issues. Fermentation should add digestability and palatability. 4x5 at 55% will be about 1500 lbs. IMO.


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## Erock813 (Jun 3, 2008)

_OK..here we go! moisture should be around 45 to 55 %. Yet we've baled over 50,000 bales between 24 and 75 % in our last lifetime doing baleage. Also baled grass after frost in November and it came out just the way it went in. It was green as could be and didn't ferment. No mold no nothing. Also have baled in a thunderstorm and wrapped it. Came out fine! There was water running out of it when we cut it open. Only way it goes bad if it get air into it. Pack that bale like a rock! Use a precutter if equipped .We use a line wrapper, don't get cheap and skimp on plastic. One bale at today prices will just about pay for a roll of wrap. I also am not a fan of wrapping in the field. If you cut your hay with 4 inches of stubble left..you'll poke holes in the plastic. And if you are wrapping single bales, put them on end, much more plastic on ends. I prefer dirt pads. Seals better on bottom. I will leave you with this thought, many people like the smell of hay drying, but that's your nutrients leaving your hay. _


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## Tim/South (Dec 12, 2011)

Baleage is popular an hour north of me. I asked why and was told cows did better on baleage vs hay.
The farmer said if you cut a grass that is 18% protein and wrap if then the baleage will be 18% when you open it up to feed.
The same grass left to cure as hay will probably lose half of the protein value.

My baler is also a silage baler. When I looked into the cost and extra work of making balage I decided to stick to what I know, which is hay. A part of me says I would do something wrong and end up with a barn full of molded hay.
The idea of doubling the protein for the same amount of crop is appealing.


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## Cornykid (Jul 24, 2011)

Erock813, thanks that information is very helpful. So sounds like you have some latitude as to what moisture content you can bale at. Any other tips to the trade you might be willing to share? Rules of thumb ect?


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## endrow (Dec 15, 2011)

Erock813 said:


> _OK..here we go! moisture should be around 45 to 55 %. Yet we've baled over 50,000 bales between 24 and 75 % in our last lifetime doing baleage. Also baled grass after frost in November and it came out just the way it went in. It was green as could be and didn't ferment. No mold no nothing. Also have baled in a thunderstorm and wrapped it. Came out fine! There was water running out of it when we cut it open. Only way it goes bad if it get air into it. Pack that bale like a rock! Use a precutter if equipped .We use a line wrapper, don't get cheap and skimp on plastic. One bale at today prices will just about pay for a roll of wrap. I also am not a fan of wrapping in the field. If you cut your hay with 4 inches of stubble left..you'll poke holes in the plastic. And if you are wrapping single bales, put them on end, much more plastic on ends. I prefer dirt pads. Seals better on bottom. I will leave you with this thought, many people like the smell of hay drying, but that's your nutrients leaving your hay. _


Perfect response I think dirt pads is a must if you are serious about quality.. We wrap half of our 1st cutting We are usually bailing that for the 2nd time when many are still doing 1 st I say that is money in the bank


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## Erock813 (Jun 3, 2008)

We cut in the afternoon when sugars are the highest. Depending on moisture we start baling the next morning. One of the negative comments we get about baleage is about the cost of plastic. I figure by the time you ted and rake...you have two trips across the field and most of your leaves on the ground not the windrows. I think its a good trade to not to touch it before you bale. Wrap your bales within 6 hours. Let ferment for 30 days too. I've never used a silage inoculant. If you have any questions, you can just message me and ill answer them.


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## mlappin (Jun 25, 2009)

Within 6 hours is a good guideline, never more than 24 hours or mold will start.

Depends alot on weather as well. Very late in the year when temps are a lot cooler you have more time to git er dun.


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## Cornykid (Jul 24, 2011)

So what happens if you bale at 35% moisture? I am worried about the weight of the bales, and what size I should make. Also, do you rake the windrows together or drop them narrow enough for the baler to pick up?


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## Bob M (Feb 11, 2012)

We have been trying to bale and wrap some of our hay at 25% to 30% at these moistures it will not ferment. We are trying to make horse quality wrapped hay. We have only done late season hay so far but are happy with what we are seeing.


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## Erock813 (Jun 3, 2008)

Please don't rake them....1) lose leaves 2) waste fuel 3) make a tighter bale which results in less air.4) pick up dirt when you rake. Bale size depends on what your doing with them and what you have to move them with. 4x4 rounds 1200lbs avg.


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## Grateful11 (Apr 5, 2009)

Erock813 said:


> We cut in the afternoon when sugars are the highest. Depending on moisture we start baling the next morning. One of the negative comments we get about baleage is about the cost of plastic. I figure by the time you ted and rake...you have two trips across the field and most of your leaves on the ground not the windrows. I think its a good trade to not to touch it before you bale. Wrap your bales within 6 hours. Let ferment for 30 days too. I've never used a silage inoculant. If you have any questions, you can just message me and ill answer them.


What does it cost to wrap a bale in plastic? We were watching them wrap a few at Hay Day and were wondering. Also what do you do with all that plastic after it's off the bale?


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## Cornykid (Jul 24, 2011)

From what I can figure about $4.50 a bale if you wrap them individually. I am checking locally if we have a place to recycle the plastic, otherwise I was going to bale it at our recycling center with the cardboard baler.


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## Dill (Nov 5, 2010)

We spend 3.50 a bale to wrap 2 layers on a 4x4. Its very popular around here. My Uncle's farm up in northern VT has been feeding their dairy, baleage and no corn for 20 years now. In fact more farms due baleage than chopped hayalge around here by a very wide margin.
Unfortunately there really isn't anything to do with the plastic other than chuck it at the dump. VT has had a couple pilot programs for recycling but have failed at this point. I know of a few farms that burn the plastic in outside wood boilers and man that stinks.


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## Ritzfarms (Apr 27, 2013)

Bought a new rotarycutter rd baler. Never have used one before. My question is, will my balage bales ferment faster then my other bales that were baled with a regular rd baler?


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