# John Deere 640 Side Delivery rake - bar bearing replacement



## My53Jubilee (Nov 21, 2020)

Hey all - I am working on the next item on my repair list for my 640. One of the 8 connection points of one bar is sloppy and some bearing work needs to be done. I tried to take the housing off, and I have a problem. The nut on the back side of the reel spins freely, so I am having trouble removing it. What should I do? I thought about cutting it with a hacksaw, then replacing it. I cannot separate the bearing housing from the reel at this point. Is there something I am missing, and this is easier than I am making it? (see photo - arrow is the nut that is spinning freely)

Thanks


----------



## FCF (Apr 23, 2010)

Looks like there is a hex in the end of the bolt for a hex key (allen) wrench to fit into and hold the bolt stationary while turning the nut.


----------



## My53Jubilee (Nov 21, 2020)

Thank you, FCF. I should have seen that. Here I go, to continue the job.


----------



## r82230 (Mar 1, 2016)

FCF said:


> Looks like there is a hex in the end of the bolt for a hex key (allen) wrench to fit into and hold the bolt stationary while turning the nut.


Yep, a 3/8" Allen wrench IIRC. You might find out a blue wrench works faster (you'll have to buy a new nut though). If the hole is worn at all, what I did was weld a 5/8" washer in place. It makes the cotter key a little tight. I suppose I could have welded the hole and re-drilled, but that was probably out of my wheel house. My buddy who as an excellent welder, use to tell me I'd be a good chicken farmer, with all the chicken s... that i left when welding. 

Larry


----------



## My53Jubilee (Nov 21, 2020)

OK. I got the nut off thanks to the help of the forum. Now, the bar doesn't want to back out of the hole. I haven't pulled really hard yet or tried to force the bearing housing to back out. How much force should I use, and does the other end of the bar need to be removed too? (please say no).


----------



## Tx Jim (Jun 30, 2014)

To ease brg shaft removal one needs to loosen brg shaft on opposite end of tooth pipe. Just think to add 5th tooth bar one must remove 3 more teeth pipes from both end wheels(6 brgs) to reposition pipes for 5th tooth pipe!


----------



## My53Jubilee (Nov 21, 2020)

Ok, I got one step further. See photos. I included the parts diagram for reference.

Looks like part 11 the shaft is worn, causing a little of the slop. Then, I can see part 13 from the outer surface. I can turn the shaft inside the bearings but it doesn't turn very freely. Do I need to dig out the bearings by removing parts 13 and 12?


----------



## Tx Jim (Jun 30, 2014)

Snap ring(key 12) secures outer brg race & must be removed to install new brgs & races. It appears rake has been operated with the nut loose allowing brg assembly shaft to turn in brg housing.


----------



## My53Jubilee (Nov 21, 2020)

Thanks, Jim. I can't seem to find key 12. Key 13 is the piece you can see I cleaned up a little bit. You can even read some of the part number. But I can't find key 12.


----------



## Tx Jim (Jun 30, 2014)

What's the number in this photo???


----------



## My53Jubilee (Nov 21, 2020)

E-15199, plus a dash and E or F I think.


----------



## r82230 (Mar 1, 2016)

My53Jubilee said:


> E-15199, plus a dash and E or F I think.


IIRC, when I bought my last one, you had to get complete part (complete bearing/with shaft). Or maybe that was a choice and I didn't have a hydraulic press available.

Larry


----------



## Tx Jim (Jun 30, 2014)

My53Jubilee said:


> E-15199, plus a dash and E or F I think.


E15199 is the seal, In order to see snap ring(key 12) you need to remove the seal to view snap ring. Utilize a sharp screwdriver or dental pick to pry seal out of housing. Brg's/races are common tapered roller brg/race that should be available at any good brg supply business. Shown in photo is what local JD dealer charges for the brgs/races.


----------



## My53Jubilee (Nov 21, 2020)

I will do that tonight or tomorrow morning, and report back once I complete it.


----------



## My53Jubilee (Nov 21, 2020)

Should I pry on the inside diameter/edge of the seal, or the outside edge?


----------



## Tx Jim (Jun 30, 2014)

outside edge at small amount at a time on alternating outer sides of seal


----------



## Tx Jim (Jun 30, 2014)

r82230 said:


> IIRC, when I bought my last one, you had to get complete part (complete bearing/with shaft). Or maybe that was a choice and I didn't have a hydraulic press available.
> 
> Larry


Complete housing with brgs/races/snap ring/seal & shaft part # AE50457 is $309 each


----------



## My53Jubilee (Nov 21, 2020)

Tx Jim said:


> outside edge at small amount at a time on alternating outer sides of seal


How gentle do i need to be? Should I plan on pounds Ng on it pretty good, then just buying a new seal if I need to?


----------



## r82230 (Mar 1, 2016)

Tx Jim said:


> Complete housing with brgs/races/snap ring/seal & shaft part # AE50457 is $309 each


Ouch,........................................ don't remember the price. Unless he finds a donor rake, sure wouldn't be cost wise very smart to add the 5th bar, IMHO. Could more than double the cost of the rake. 

Larry


----------



## My53Jubilee (Nov 21, 2020)

Larry I called the farm equipment salvage yard today and was able to locate a used bar for $175 including bearing housing and bearings on both sides. I still may wait until next year to add that 5th bar. keep costs low until I get my mower rake and baler working all three.


----------



## Tx Jim (Jun 30, 2014)

If it was my rake I'd just plan on replacing the seal with a new one. Even from JD new seal is less than $9


----------



## My53Jubilee (Nov 21, 2020)

Ok. Getting started early today. Great success in removing the seal (metal on the outside, with rubber on the inside.) and the ring that was underneath it holding the bearings in place. (see photo). At this point, should I be able to remove the shaft and the rest of the bearings, up and out, right? Still seized up, but I think I may try to gently beat out on the nut, which I have threaded back on to the shaft. I figure the only thing I am trying to save at this point is the housing (and maybe the shaft). Thanks, all. Almost done with removal, then I will order parts. This has been fun and I have learned a lot.


----------



## Tx Jim (Jun 30, 2014)

My repair suggestion would be drill a hole in brg housing in line with the shaft then utilizing a punch to drive brgs. races & shaft out of housing. Then tap threads into hole in housing & install a grease fitting.


----------



## My53Jubilee (Nov 21, 2020)

Wow, that is a great suggestion, Jim. Is this something you would recommend I do anytime I rebuild tine bar bearings, as a standard practice? So I can grease them?


----------



## r82230 (Mar 1, 2016)

My53Jubilee said:


> Larry I called the farm equipment salvage yard today and was able to locate a used bar for $175 including bearing housing and bearings on both sides. I still may wait until next year to add that 5th bar. keep costs low until I get my mower rake and baler working all three.


That's great news, sounds like a good plan.

BTW, that bearing shaft looks worn, so are you considering replacing, along with the bearing or weld it up and put on a lathe?

Larry


----------



## My53Jubilee (Nov 21, 2020)

Yes, I am considering it, but I don't have the welding skills for that, and the new shaft costs $50+. Could I install a small washer bushing to try to eliminate further wear, once replaced? The wear is where it was rubbing against the hole in the reel. Try to take up that slop with a little washer?


----------



## r82230 (Mar 1, 2016)

My53Jubilee said:


> Yes, I am considering it, but I don't have the welding skills for that, and the new shaft costs $50+.


Ouch, mamma deere. :angry: Maybe same place you sourced bar might be an option?

Larry


----------



## Tx Jim (Jun 30, 2014)

My53Jubilee said:


> Wow, that is a great suggestion, Jim. Is this something you would recommend I do anytime I rebuild tine bar bearings, as a standard practice? So I can grease them?


Yes sir. Grease is cheaper than buying/replacing other parts.


----------



## Tx Jim (Jun 30, 2014)

My53Jubilee said:


> Yes, I am considering it, but I don't have the welding skills for that, and the new shaft costs $50+. Could I install a small washer bushing to try to eliminate further wear, once replaced? The wear is where it was rubbing against the hole in the reel. Try to take up that slop with a little washer?


Was shaft tight or loose on tooth bar when you removed it IE could nut have been tightened?? I'll guess LOOSE.


----------



## My53Jubilee (Nov 21, 2020)

I bet LOOSE also. I will keep all of you posted as I complete this. Thank you!


----------



## broadriverhay (Jun 13, 2014)

If the outer race is hard to remove simply run a weld bead on the inside of the outer race. When it cools it will draw causing the race to shrink and simply fall out. A good trick to keep in mind. I’ve done this many times removing bearing races from blind holes.


----------



## Tx Jim (Jun 30, 2014)

broadriverhay

May I ask which race you're referring to as the outer race? IMHO outer race in this situation must be 1st driven out in order to remove both brgs so as to see the other(inner) race to run the welding bead 

I agree welding a bead around a race is a very good method for removing a faulty brg race. I've learned/utilized that method many yrs ago.


----------



## 8350HiTech (Jul 26, 2013)

r82230 said:


> That's great news, sounds like a good plan.
> 
> BTW, that bearing shaft looks worn, so are you considering replacing, along with the bearing or weld it up and put on a lathe?
> 
> Larry


Maybe it's just me but if the shaft is still the correct size where the bearing is, a little wear on the rest of it isn't too important, assuming someone gets the nut plenty tight on reassembly.


----------



## r82230 (Mar 1, 2016)

8350HiTech said:


> Maybe it's just me but if the shaft is still the correct size where the bearing is, a little wear on the rest of it isn't too important, assuming someone gets the nut plenty tight on reassembly.


That shaft is similar to a tie rod end. It is drawn into the mounting hole, which locks it in place. You don't tighten to the bearing face at all. This is where I welded a 5/8" washer (IIRC) to pull the shaft into, seems a had to use a smaller cotter key also. If the shaft isn't wedge in tight, more wear happens to both the hole and shaft, which creates all kinds of more stuff screwing up. :huh: At least in my case.

The only other problem with just using the washer, not a lot of metal to wedge the shaft against. The stock hole is about 1/4" or more thick. But................... this is where if he was going to add a 5th bar, maybe he could avoid using the worn hole (still would be wise for a new shaft or weld and machine down old one IMHO).

Larry


----------



## My53Jubilee (Nov 21, 2020)

These are all great points about making sure I secure the shaft such that it won't wear when I reassemble. I will keep you posted once I get to that point. Thanks all!


----------



## My53Jubilee (Nov 21, 2020)

OK. Here is the update. I am posting 3 pictures. I have made progress, but encountered some bumps along the way that hopefully won't render this bearing ruined. Am I still on track, or did I shoot myself in the foot? - see below.

Picture 1 - What is the best way to get the cup out of the bottom? I am not handy with a welder. Is there any other way? I could use a torch, but welding the bead on there is not an option right now.

Picture 2 - what do you suggest for getting these bearing parts off of the shaft?

Picture 3 - When drilling through the back of the bearing housing, I overshot a bit and went into the shaft - scarred it a little in 2 spots. Is that OK?

Thanks for all your help!


----------



## stack em up (Mar 7, 2013)

If there isn’t a frost plug behind that cup, welder is about the only thing gonna shrink it enough to get them out. As far as the cones, bearing splitter will work best. The third pic shaft will be fine


----------



## Tx Jim (Jun 30, 2014)

Welding a bead on race as broadriverhay stated in the center of the flat area of the race is by far the easiest method of removal. Could you possibly housing to a welder for them to run the bead?

If that that's not possible if you're very careful you could cut a slice or 2 in race with a torch. On removing tapered brg one could pry cages off allowing rollers to fall away from inner races, Then wearing """safety glasses""" one can either slice race with torch or create crack in race with a hammer with race resting on a vice or anvil.


----------



## My53Jubilee (Nov 21, 2020)

Thanks for the replies. Here is a question, can I leave the cup in the housing, and just not replace it when I replace the 2 bearings? Assume it wasn't part of the problem, and just leave it there?


----------



## broadriverhay (Jun 13, 2014)

Tx Jim , I wasn’t sure how this one was made , but now after seeing the pictures it would be the one in the cup. I was just trying to give some hints on removing a race in a blind hole. I bought an old NH 56 and the guy told me the bearings were very hard to replace. I don’t think he knew this technique. The weld doesn’t have to be pretty, it’s going to be trash anyway.


----------



## Tx Jim (Jun 30, 2014)

Is brg race smooth as a baby's butt?? If so probably yes but one really needs to measure the wear area with micrometer to determine amount of wear. If race has too much wear then end play on brgs will be incorrect.


----------



## Tx Jim (Jun 30, 2014)

broadriverhay

I was just kidding kind a similar to rattling your chain. 

Jim


----------



## broadriverhay (Jun 13, 2014)

Tx Jim , I didn’t mean to sound rattled. All is good!!!!


----------



## My53Jubilee (Nov 21, 2020)

OK. I better check into this while I am trying to get the worn bearings off of the housing...

Assuming I use the same shaft and get 2 bearings and 2 cups, is it difficult to install these to the housing? Will it require a lot of force, or just kindof "fit"? I fear that I will need to beat things into place with the new parts, and will end up damaging them, based on what has happened during the removal process.

Thoughts?


----------



## broadriverhay (Jun 13, 2014)

Heat the housing and freeze the race prior to assembly


----------



## r82230 (Mar 1, 2016)

WornPart




__
r82230


__
Nov 25, 2020








These two worn spots (blue arrows??) may very well give you trouble (at least it did in my case). At least get a new castle nut, that worn mushroom shape is a no go, IMHO. They part of the shaft that's worn, really gave me fits, hence the recommendation of replacing. But I don't remember the ridiculous green pricing. This is also where I utilized a 5/8" flat washer. Then again, you might want to be thankful that you can get parts for a rake that might be 50+ years old. Could be NLS or NLA part too. I know the parts for the JD corn binder I gave the Amish, has a lot of NLA parts.

Larry


----------



## My53Jubilee (Nov 21, 2020)

Tx Jim said:


> Welding a bead on race as broadriverhay stated in the center of the flat area of the race is by far the easiest method of removal. Could you possibly housing to a welder for them to run the bead?
> 
> If that that's not possible if you're very careful you could cut a slice or 2 in race with a torch. On removing tapered brg one could pry cages off allowing rollers to fall away from inner races, Then wearing """safety glasses""" one can either slice race with torch or create crack in race with a hammer with race resting on a vice or anvil.


I will try these methods tomorrow, Jim. Thanks!


----------



## Tx Jim (Jun 30, 2014)

broadriverhay said:


> Tx Jim , I didn't mean to sound rattled. All is good!!!!


I'm glad all is good because I was just joking!


----------



## My53Jubilee (Nov 21, 2020)

I've learned in my 48 years on earth that one needs to understand their own limitations. I also am seeking a desired outcome of a smooth-operating rake reel. So, I put pencil to paper...

Options:

1) Buy brand new JD housing and re-install: Cost $309

2) Buy used JD housing from farm salvage yard and re-install. I located one, and they assured me that the bearing housing is used, but the bearings would be good. Cost $75

3) Continue trying to rebuild the bearing housing myself, and re-install. Cost: $103

I think I am going to choose option 2, and just get in the truck and drive. I would normally try to choose option 3 and get some good education, but I fear that the outcome could be sub-par. The reasons are that you have all suggested some really handy and effective techniques, but I have found that I either don't own the tool (example: bearing stripper - $60, welder - lots of $$), or don't feel comfortable with performing the recommended task (example: weld bead to remove bearing race).

So, the economics alone point to Option 2, let alone the fact that I may not achieve an adequate outcome. I could end up pounding the new bearings in, and end up with problems sooner than later. In all of this, I don't count my time as worth anything because I am a small-time hobby farmer and I enjoy doing these projects.

If I choose Option 2, I will continue to post the progress to this thread, so others can reference it later, along with photos of the guts of the bearings. They will be able to see the decision point of whether to try to rebuild the $309 bearing housing themselves, or not.

What do you all think?


----------



## r82230 (Mar 1, 2016)

I like your thinking and agree with your line of attack. I'll really give you credit for realizing what might be your limitations (no welder, no experience welding, etc.). You are dealing with a piece of cast iron after all. Even with my limited experience I know of someone who has broke cast iron, while hammering (that person shall remain nameless BTW  ).

Larry


----------



## Tx Jim (Jun 30, 2014)

If it was my rake & I had only 10 acres to rake I also would assemble it with the used housing Then rake what needed to be raked to determine if any thing else failed on rake & needed repaired.


----------



## My53Jubilee (Nov 21, 2020)

Jim, I appreciate your faith in me, to reassemble. Do you think I can do that without damaging the housing or new bearings, since I down own the proper tools? Will I be able to press in the new parts with tools I own, like hammer, vice, etc.? I would love to proceed with DIY, but don't really trust myself.


----------



## Tx Jim (Jun 30, 2014)

I was thinking the used housing you were buying for $75 came complete with brgs/races installed. Yes I have faith you can repair your rake if you follow directions from HT members.


----------



## 8350HiTech (Jul 26, 2013)

This may come in handy if you decide to install bearings in your housing at a later date. (Like if maybe you decide to buy a fifth bar or just want a spare)

https://www.shoupparts.com/SH41950-Tine-Bar-Bearing-Kit-For-John-Deere-Rakes


----------



## My53Jubilee (Nov 21, 2020)

You're correct. $75 is a usable, working bearing housing. Just needs to be reassembled.
I am going to take your advice, Jim, and try this myself. Worst I can do it use Option 2 as a fallback option. Ordering parts now.


----------



## My53Jubilee (Nov 21, 2020)

This is where I am...see photo. I am going to OReilly to borrow a bearing puller to pull the inside bearing races off of the shaft.


----------



## My53Jubilee (Nov 21, 2020)

Jim, I confirmed that the cup that is still in the housing on the right is as smooth as a baby's butt, with no diaper rash.


----------



## Tx Jim (Jun 30, 2014)

If you haven't already purchased brg & race the brg manufacturer ID #s should be stenciled on the flat area of races so you could check availability of parts from auto parts store.


----------



## broadriverhay (Jun 13, 2014)

Heat them they should come right off


----------



## My53Jubilee (Nov 21, 2020)

Broad river, I will try a torch. Thanks, that will be much easier.


----------



## My53Jubilee (Nov 21, 2020)

See photos. Heated with yellow bottle hand held torch, then tried twisting with channel locks. No luck. Am I doing this correctly? Do I need to let them cool so they separate from shaft?


----------



## Tx Jim (Jun 30, 2014)

While race is hot let some candle wax seep between race & shaft.


----------



## broadriverhay (Jun 13, 2014)

Let everything cool and start over. Heat just the race ,like it appears you were doing then try to remove before the shaft has time to get hot and expand. Speed is your friend here. You are trying to get the race hot without the shaft getting to hot.


----------



## My53Jubilee (Nov 21, 2020)

Good clarification. Can I heat on just one spot on the race or do I have to circle around it with my torch?


----------



## My53Jubilee (Nov 21, 2020)

Should I put PB blaster in between race and shaft for a day or two also?


----------



## r82230 (Mar 1, 2016)

My53Jubilee said:


> Should I put PB blaster in between race and shaft for a day or two also?


Is the plan to fix/repair the worn part of the shaft? If yes, then continue on your removal task, if not save the time and just throw in the scape metal pile.

Larry


----------



## My53Jubilee (Nov 21, 2020)

I will determine shaft repair once I get these bearings off. At minimum, I will learn how to use heat as my friend.


----------



## My53Jubilee (Nov 21, 2020)

Update...Stopped in at OReilly auto parts. They tried to pull them off with a standard puller and it didn't work. Too stiff. They recommended that I go down to J&Rs, down the road and to the right. Performance mechanic garage. If anyone can help you, they can. I described to Billy what I needed, and 20 minutes later, good-to-go. He used a circular grinder to cut slits in the races, then beat them with a max steel wedge until the opened up. Ready for new bearings. see photo.


----------



## Tx Jim (Jun 30, 2014)

Congratulations on your progress.


----------



## My53Jubilee (Nov 21, 2020)

Thanks, Jim. I will order the parts, then post back when they get here and I start reassembling.


----------



## broadriverhay (Jun 13, 2014)

Good deal.


----------



## My53Jubilee (Nov 21, 2020)

Ok. My parts came in and it's time to put this bearing housing and parts back together. Silly question...how do I lubricate the bearings before installing them into the housing. I assume they are supposed to be packed with grease. What kind of grease?

Thanks


----------



## Tx Jim (Jun 30, 2014)

Utilize same method as packing frt wheel brgs on RWD pickup/car/tractor. A tapered brg packing device that sells for less than $10 makes packing tapered brgs a lot less messy. Wheel brg grease or any grease is better than seeing results of the presence of "grease worms"!


----------



## My53Jubilee (Nov 21, 2020)

Thanks, Jim. I just bought that packing device, and borrowed a set of race installing tools from the auto parts shop. I chose marine grease, since these bearings may encounter water if rake is stored outside. Someone I know recommended that. Harder for clean up, but he uses marine grease for everything. I will keep you posted on progress.


----------



## My53Jubilee (Nov 21, 2020)

Jim, can I install my grease fitting after everything else is done before it goes back on to the rake? Will the grease fitting be self-tapping into the hole I drilled to pound out the old bearings?


----------



## Tx Jim (Jun 30, 2014)

I think you will heed to tap threads in hole before attempting to install grease fitting


----------



## My53Jubilee (Nov 21, 2020)

do I need to do that before I reinstall the bearings so there's plenty of room to do that? Rather than the very last step?


----------



## My53Jubilee (Nov 21, 2020)

My next question about this grease fitting is how will I get grease into this since it is a closed system with a seal? Where is the pressure release for the grease to flow when I'm adding grease?


----------



## 8350HiTech (Jul 26, 2013)

My53Jubilee said:


> do I need to do that before I reinstall the bearings so there's plenty of room to do that? Rather than the very last step?


Better to at least thread it now so you don't get filings in there that you can't get out. It doesn't appear that you have sealed bearings so not sure why the grease from your zerk won't make it to the bearings.


----------



## My53Jubilee (Nov 21, 2020)

Thanks, Jim. it is actually a separate part that is the seal on top of everything. would I simply leave out that seal when I reinstall?? I can supply a diagram if you want.


----------



## Tx Jim (Jun 30, 2014)

I'm not understanding what you mean when you state "leave out the seal". Sounds as if you've never repacked wheel brgs on an implement, trailer, frt wheel hub on a frt wheel on RWD car or pickup or tractor. On the wheel hubs I mentioned one packs brgs,installs them in the hubs then installs the seal then install assembly on spindle held in place with washer/nut.

A very similar method applies to your rake. Pack brgs,install brgs on shaft then outside race in housing,install snap ring & seal


----------



## My53Jubilee (Nov 21, 2020)

I understand the method you are describing. Correct, I have not done it before. Once I follow that method, including installing the seal, with the grease fitting be able to introduce grease into my tine bar bearing? It seems like I would just be pushing grease into a sealed area, and it wouldn't take grease.


----------



## My53Jubilee (Nov 21, 2020)

This rake bearing assembly contains 2 cone bearings and two races. It goes race, bearing, bearing, race. Then clip, then seal.


----------



## Tx Jim (Jun 30, 2014)

My53Jubilee

Yes you're correct & be sure to install brgs on the shaft with the correct orientation.


----------



## My53Jubilee (Nov 21, 2020)

Ok, i have got myself into a pickle I think. I have bearings installed in the housing, ready for the clip to hold them in. Bearings packed with grease. Fit is good, operation is smooth. My challenge now is to drive the shaft down inside of the bearings without damaging them. I believe I did this out of order, Jim. I apologize for that. I have heard that I can heat the housing and bearings in the oven, and cool the shaft with dry ice, and it should slip right in. Then, when the temperature reaches equilibrium, it will tighten up. Or, can I gently hammer it in? What do you suggest at this point? See photo.


----------



## Tx Jim (Jun 30, 2014)

Heating brgs packed with grease will defeat the purpose of packing them with grease.

Put shaft in freezer for a few days then put brgs on shaft. BE SURE BEARINGS ARE ORIENTED CORRECTLY before installing on the shaft!!!!!! To correctly install brgs on the shaft one needs to apply pressure to """brg inner race""" not to tapered rollers. A shop phyd press is a good tool to utilize to instal brgs on the shaft


----------



## My53Jubilee (Nov 21, 2020)

Thanks, Jim. Now that the bearings are already in the housing, without the shaft, how do I put pressure on the "bearing inner race" while installing the cooled shaft? This is a non ideal situation, I know. Can I cool the shaft enough that it will just slip in, with dry ice or something really cold?


----------



## Tx Jim (Jun 30, 2014)

IMHO you're attempting to make a bump in the road into a Mountain.

Remove seal,snap ring, race & 2 brgs. Press brgs on the shaft & reassemble with parts in correct orientation!!!!! Easy-peasy.

I'm not attempting to be rude but IMHO you have a ""expensive learning experience"" facing your small sq baling operation.


----------



## My53Jubilee (Nov 21, 2020)

Ok, I can do that. Please tell me how to easily remove that outside race without a weld bead. That is what I struggled with when I disassembled.


----------



## Tx Jim (Jun 30, 2014)

You may have to sacrifice the outer brg. I suggest to get a pilot brg slide hammer. Put slide hammer claws through outer brg inner race expand the claws then see if slide hammer will pop race out of housing OR utilize a brg puller similar to photo below.

I strongly advise to start looking for a tractor with live pto to bale hay with because I think you're going to encounter too many difficulties for you to over come attempting to sq bale with a tractor with a trans driven pto such as your Jubilee!!!


----------



## 8350HiTech (Jul 26, 2013)

I agree with Jim that putting it together in the proper sequence was the way to go, and I do like the idea of just taking it back apart even if it means sacrificing a race (they’re cheap), but it’s december and that leaves you plenty of time, so I would at least see what a few days in the freezer does for you and the shaft. If that works you don’t have to sacrifice anything.


----------



## My53Jubilee (Nov 21, 2020)

Thank you. I will try the freezer. I will report back after I have tried these things, and let you know. I appreciate everyone's patience and advice.


----------



## r82230 (Mar 1, 2016)

Couldn't he heat the bearings (complete part) to say 100-120 degrees also? Grease shouldn't drain out at that temp, is my thought.

IIRC, I pressed the bearings (inter parts) on to the shaft BEFORE pressing in the outside race. But it was a looooonnnnnng time ago and my hard drive is getting full.

Hope the freezing process works for certain.

Larry


----------



## bool (Mar 14, 2016)

A just-installed bearing or race is usually easier to remove than one that has been in place for many years, because everything is cleaned up nicely.

Roger


----------



## My53Jubilee (Nov 21, 2020)

I wanted to get back to everyone on this. This repair is complete. I found a machine shop that installed the shaft inside the inner bearing races, AND put in the grease fitting. I have reassembled the bar back on the rake and look forward to getting a lot of service out of this new bearing housing. I learned a lot and accomplished the goal, thanks to this forum.


----------

