# I think my hybrid Bermuda is reverting back to common or somthing?



## Ranger518 (Aug 6, 2016)

last 2 years my yields have been going down In yield we have been getting plenty of rain and my soil test are always great with PH around 6.9 i fertilize after every cutting with 450lb of 22-11-22 I spray prowell h20 in spring and 24d in may if I have any weeds so trying to figure out what I did wrong or what went or is going wrong as I have really been trying to take care of this field. The field has always been In row crop and took it out and had it sprigged 5 years ago with midland 99 and the first 3 years yields were amazing with a 80 small square a acer average. Last year I had about a 45 bale average so been trying to figure out what is going on but could never really figure anything out. I walked the field today and the outside looks amazing knee high hybrid Bermuda just as pretty and thick as it could be but when you walk out towards the middle it is Poor and thin with what looks like common Bermuda there are places that are not ankle high my pastures look better. I noticed this about 3 weeks ago after my first fertilizer application of 450lb a acer of 22-11-22 seamed not to do much so last week I spread a little more urea on it just to see what it would do and it just doesn’t want to grow so i really not sure what to do at this point.


----------



## Ranger518 (Aug 6, 2016)

Frustrating the outside is as clean as can be with no weeds or crab grass and the inside is starting to get weedy and has some crab grass growing In it now so the 24d I sprayed this year did not work or it being thinner I have started to get some weeds not sure going to cut and bale next week fertilize it again and see what happens as there is not much I can spray in it this late in the year.


----------



## Tim/South (Dec 12, 2011)

My first thought was Bermuda Stem Maggots. Their damage would have gone away after cutting. Your pictures do not show the wilting so I do not believe that is the problem.
The only thing I can think of is to test the soil on the slower growing places and see if it is different than the better places.

Might consider getting your local extension agent out to have a look.
I am not familiar with Midland and do not know if it is known for reverting to Common. I hope you get it worked out. That is some nice looking grass.


----------



## Ranger518 (Aug 6, 2016)

Tim/South said:


> My first thought was Bermuda Stem Maggots. Their damage would have gone away after cutting. Your pictures do not show the wilting so I do not believe that is the problem.
> The only thing I can think of is to test the soil on the slower growing places and see if it is different than the better places.
> Might consider getting your local extension agent out to have a look.
> I am not familiar with Midland and do not know if it is known for reverting to Common. I hope you get it worked out. That is some nice looking grass.


At one point I was also thinking that it might be stem maggots bought a sweep net and have checked several times last year and this but have come up with nothing and there has only been a few confirmed cases in our state of stem maggots and none in my county. I grew up and I am still today good friends with our local extension agent and he has no idea to why it's not growing and says he does not know much about forage or hay grass just row crop as there is almost no quality hay close to me do to everything gets put into row crop or levy crop. He said the only extension office that really know about gras hay and forage is 4 hours north of me and I have not been able to get in contacting with them but I will try again.


----------



## somedevildawg (Jun 20, 2011)

A couple of things come to mind...first off, the grass in the second pic, is that the center you're talking about? It doesn't look like it's doing any reverting, looks like a hybrid to me....speaking of that, I'm not familiar with Midland but it was sprigged right, so it is a true hybrid Bermuda grass and not propagated from seed, is that right? First thing would be compaction....any way that could be an issue? Seems kinda doubtful being in the middle.....The prowl, was it a good spray...have good rain afterwards, it wouldn't be high on the list as the whole field isn't like that...I would test the soil in that area and test the edges where good growth is, especially deep at say 12"-18" 
Lack of potash is the usual suspect but according to your NPK applications you should be sufficient depending on soil tests....that regiment sounds good tho. I don't see any evidence of pest or disease so I would be concentrating on soil health, be it compaction or perhaps Al or something...
That's a good looking stand from what I can see...


----------



## Tim/South (Dec 12, 2011)

I did not think of compaction. Might be on to something.

Here is a picture of my first experience with Bermuda Stem Maggots. The flies are small like gnats. Almost impossible to see, even when walking through the grass.


----------



## r82230 (Mar 1, 2016)

I'll go out on a limb here (falling off maybe again ). If you took some plant samples from each area and sent them in for separate analysis would that possibly tell you anything? This works for some crops, but I no nothing about the stuff you grow.

If this is a dumb idea, just be thankful it was only 2 cents worth (and I must have cheated you, sorry ).

Larry


----------



## Ranger518 (Aug 6, 2016)

somedevildawg said:


> A couple of things come to mind...first off, the grass in the second pic, is that the center you're talking about? It doesn't look like it's doing any reverting, looks like a hybrid to me....speaking of that, I'm not familiar with Midland but it was sprigged right, so it is a true hybrid Bermuda grass and not propagated from seed, is that right? First thing would be compaction....any way that could be an issue? Seems kinda doubtful being in the middle.....The prowl, was it a good spray...have good rain afterwards, it wouldn't be high on the list as the whole field isn't like that...I would test the soil in that area and test the edges where good growth is, especially deep at say 12"-18"
> Lack of potash is the usual suspect but according to your NPK applications you should be sufficient depending on soil tests....that regiment sounds good tho. I don't see any evidence of pest or disease so I would be concentrating on soil health, be it compaction or perhaps Al or something...
> That's a good looking stand from what I can see...


Yes it was sprigged and has been in row crop for 100 years so it's not like it had a seed bank of common Bermuda. Compaction issue maybe but it only get traffic when bailing and bring it is a looser softer soil not clay and was disked up pretty well 5 years ago when I sprigged it I wouldn't think it would be a issue but who knows. I got a rain the night after i sprayed my prowell h20 this year as I always spray it right before a rain. My soils test came back this year with p and k both in the Optima levels. I was thinking all last year that soil fertility had something to do with it and maybe i was getting some bad fertilizer but soil test this year kind proved that wrong i guess do to everything seamed to go up in value. So was thinking maybe last year was just a fluke and a bad year but this year it is not looking much better so far. Guess I will try and get some deep soil samples of good and bad areas and see if these is a difference.


----------



## Ranger518 (Aug 6, 2016)

r82230 said:


> I'll go out on a limb here (falling off maybe again ). If you took some plant samples from each area and sent them in for separate analysis would that possibly tell you anything? This works for some crops, but I no nothing about the stuff you grow.
> 
> If this is a dumb idea, just be thankful it was only 2 cents worth (and I must have cheated you, sorry ).
> 
> Larry


Sounds like a good idea to me as I am willing to try pretty much anything at this point to figure it out and correct if possible. Anybody know or recommended a place I can send them to?


----------



## Ranger518 (Aug 6, 2016)

I made a little video today link below of my field and was going to see what y'all think is going on and what I should try and do to about it. Yields have been a little better this year but barnyard, crab and signal grass have also gotten pretty bad this year we have also had lots of rain up until the last 3 weeks but I have also irrigated it. Not sure what my next plan of attract should be i am wanting to springing more ground in the future but really don't want to invest time and money in it until I can figure out what I need to do better to have those Beautiful hybrid fields like so many of you guys have. Tell me your thoughts? Thank you.


----------



## SCtrailrider (May 1, 2016)

I watched your video, I'm no expert, but I saw a few things.... their are patches of low thick green grass looking places.. what is that, the bare spots look like their could be a bug in the ground, are the bare spots migrating or getting bigger ?

I saw the Bermuda but it looks like a lot of something else may be crowding it out... also it looked like a bit of thatch on the soil, it may need to be burned off early spring, I know some around here do that every year...

Hope ya get it figured out, I thing soil samples in the bad spots would help... if you can't find somewhere to send them Clemson does it, it's on the web somewhere, just mail it in....


----------



## SCtrailrider (May 1, 2016)

https://www.clemson.edu/public/regulatory/ag-srvc-lab/soil-testing/index.html


----------



## SCtrailrider (May 1, 2016)

https://www.clemson.edu/public/regulatory/ag-srvc-lab/soil-sampler-mailer.html


----------



## Ranger518 (Aug 6, 2016)

SCtrailrider said:


> I watched your video, I'm no expert, but I saw a few things.... their are patches of low thick green grass looking places.. what is that, the bare spots look like their could be a bug in the ground, are the bare spots migrating or getting bigger ?
> 
> I saw the Bermuda but it looks like a lot of something else may be crowding it out... also it looked like a bit of thatch on the soil, it may need to be burned off early spring, I know some around here do that every year...
> 
> Hope ya get it figured out, I thing soil samples in the bad spots would help...  if you can't find somewhere to send them Clemson does it, it's on the web somewhere, just mail it in....


The big green thick patches are common Bermuda and yes I do have some barnyard, crab and signal grass growing on 2nd cutting I I cut it a little lower to try and kill the signal and barnyard grass as it does not like to be cut low and has a hard time recovering after that and it worked pretty well as that is what the brown spots are dead barnyard and signal grass. I also soil test every year and everything is In the optimal range and ph is 6.9 or so. I also fertilize with 450lb to the acer with 22/11/22 after every cutting. So I been trying to do everything right but it just not working out I don't know.


----------



## SCtrailrider (May 1, 2016)

Send a soil sample to a different test place and see if it comes in close to what your regular place does..


----------



## somedevildawg (Jun 20, 2011)

I think my first course of action would be to run a ripper, like a hay king etc., through it to try and encourage some root growth and new stolon action. I think that next year I would leave the prowl in the barn, how many years you been using prowl, after a few the offending grasses should be controlled enuf anyways. 
It looks like a lot of T85 fields I see, poor sod coverage and spotty. Maybe plant a grain over the winter and cut earlier before greenup and use a post herbicide like Cimmaron....then run over again with ripper, plugger, etc.
I'm not certain, but it's worth a try.....last course of action would be a resprig. Not sure you're there yet....


----------



## Troy Farmer (Jul 31, 2011)

I attended a UGA forage school this year and during a discussion of soil compaction, one of the UGA folks said they have seen the benefit of the ripper like Dawg mentions. They said they have seen the hybrids tend to revert back to the "mother sprig" and that the ripper encourages spread.

I wish you the best. This bermuda business is not for the faint of heart.


----------



## Ranger518 (Aug 6, 2016)

somedevildawg said:


> I think my first course of action would be to run a ripper, like a hay king etc., through it to try and encourage some root growth and new stolon action. I think that next year I would leave the prowl in the barn, how many years you been using prowl, after a few the offending grasses should be controlled enuf anyways.
> It looks like a lot of T85 fields I see, poor sod coverage and spotty. Maybe plant a grain over the winter and cut earlier before greenup and use a post herbicide like Cimmaron....then run over again with ripper, plugger, etc.
> I'm not certain, but it's worth a try.....last course of action would be a resprig. Not sure you're there yet....


I have thought about using a ripper / aerator to see what would happen but nobody around here has one do to our soil is a sandy loomey type and compaction has does not seam to be a issue but I am still going to give it a try as soon as I fine one to borrow or buy. I have been using prowell h20 every year sense having it sprigged so this would be my 4th year using it I don't have any broad leaf weed issues really just grasses would kinda hate to not use a pre but if that is causing my issues I guess I could try It a use a good post herbside early in the year to try and take it out but not sure how successful it would be. Midland 99 is pretty close to T85 just more cold hardy. As far as respriging goes really hate to becuse I have tried really hard to take care of this field the best I can and really want to find out what I need to do before I invest any more into Sprigging.


----------



## somedevildawg (Jun 20, 2011)

I would definitely quit the H2O....you can control most anything in Bermuda post emerge, Italian ryegrass and crabgrass is an exception but not too much else. If you need a ripper, and don’t mind the ride.....I have one, you’re certainly welcome to it....might be a bit cost prohibitive to travel that distance however


----------



## Ranger518 (Aug 6, 2016)

somedevildawg said:


> I would definitely quit the H2O....you can control most anything in Bermuda post emerge, Italian ryegrass and crabgrass is an exception but not too much else. If you need a ripper, and don't mind the ride.....I have one, you're certainly welcome to it....might be a bit cost prohibitive to travel that distance however


The more I think about it I am wondering if the prowell h20 is causing some or all of my issues kinda makes sense but everybody on this fourm recommend it and everybody around here uses it religiously on Bermuda hay fields and I have never heard of issues with it but at this point I am willing to try anything. I was planing on using relizon this year for my pre emerge but I starting to think it may make thing worse because it does cause toupee effect and won't let runners form roots in the ground not really my issue as I don't have any runners. I do have a little crab grass but my biggest issue is signal grass right now. I would take you up on that ripper but you are a little far. Do you think it needs to be a ripper type or would a aggressive set aerator work? Do you have Bermuda fields and what is you typically corse of action as far as Herbside and fertilizer?


----------



## Troy Farmer (Jul 31, 2011)

The UGA folks specifically talked about the aerator and said to not use it. They recommended vertical tillage. I'm not in row crop country so I don't know the proper name, but if not the hayking renovator those implements that look like disk harrows but have coulters on them instead of disks and have no chisels.


----------



## Ranger518 (Aug 6, 2016)

Troy Farmer said:


> The UGA folks specifically talked about the aerator and said to not use it. They recommended vertical tillage. I'm not in row crop country so I don't know the proper name, but if not the hayking renovator those implements that look like disk harrows but have coulters on them instead of disks and have no chisels.


Well crap guess I need to look for a ripper type then. what time of year is the best to use it?


----------



## Troy Farmer (Jul 31, 2011)

Ranger518 said:


> Well crap guess I need to look for a ripper type then. what time of year is the best to use it?


I would defer to Dawg on that. They didn't talk about when.


----------



## somedevildawg (Jun 20, 2011)

The best time is spring after greenup and first NPK application. 
That's the same time that I would apply selectives as well.....usually Cimmiron but I may use Pastora.
Usually have issues with Sandbur if I'm using Pastora so I may wait until after first cut to apply. I should also state that there are times when I may skip a year altogether, maybe just do weedmaster at greenup, although that has to be early as other crops are going in the ground which limits 2-4d application windows. I would definitely give that soil a break on the H2O....or any pre for that matter. Although not 100%, I am wary of the mode of action on these pre-herbicides for sustained use....
Once a good sod is formed, you may be able to skip any application of herbicide....that's the goal for me anyway. Then I may just spot spray if I have offending weeds, usually the Bermuda will crowd them out for the most part.
Fertilization is generally something like 100units of N (up to 400 per year) per acre with as much potash added as I can afford. Usually one application per year will be my co-op's "best" 19-5-18. Usually tho it's An or Urea for the N and blended with 20-60upa of K. First application in spring after spray with post herbicides. 
I couldn't apply H2O every year anyways, it's fairly pricey and the NPK gets expensive enuf, I have to try and make a profit so all things have to be taken into account .


----------



## Ranger518 (Aug 6, 2016)

So does this sound like a good plan for next year? Try and burn field off in February depending on weather, at green up fertilize, rip ground, wait 10-15 days to allow any seeds that were disturbed when ripping to germinate spray with pastora as I am dealing with nuisance grass not really broadleaf weeds and spot spray as needed after that and fingers crossed and heavy fertilizer and water Bermuda will take off running again and weeds and grasses won’t be to bad?


----------



## somedevildawg (Jun 20, 2011)

That sounds like a decent strategy....of course I have all kinds of “plans” but they rarely materialize the way I want them too....usually Wx problems, late freeze, dry, wet....when you say burn are you speaking of fire or chemicals? On the Pastora, it’s a two application deal....spacing about 10-15 days apart. I have good control of most things here with cimmiron and it’s one application. It will not get sandbur and not real effective on Baha’i unless two applications are used. I’ve kinda forgone the fire burn unless I have heavy thatch that I need to eliminate, but it’s not a bad option except that I have to put a few breaks in and I don’t like doing that to the edges of my field, kinda negates what I’m trying to accomplish. I can’t remember, but what amount of K have you been applying every year on average?


----------



## Ranger518 (Aug 6, 2016)

somedevildawg said:


> That sounds like a decent strategy....of course I have all kinds of "plans" but they rarely materialize the way I want them too....usually Wx problems, late freeze, dry, wet....when you say burn are you speaking of fire or chemicals? On the Pastora, it's a two application deal....spacing about 10-15 days apart. I have good control of most things here with cimmiron and it's one application. It will not get sandbur and not real effective on Baha'i unless two applications are used. I've kinda forgone the fire burn unless I have heavy thatch that I need to eliminate, but it's not a bad option except that I have to put a few breaks in and I don't like doing that to the edges of my field, kinda negates what I'm trying to accomplish. I can't remember, but what amount of K have you been applying every year on average?


I was talking about burning with fire do to people were saying looks like I may have to much thatch but I have used round up in Jan-feb to burn down what little winter weeds I have which are almost none I was thinking pastora because I though cimmiron was more of a broad leaf herbicide and would not work well on taking out the barnyard, crab and signal grass I am having issues with. I use 450lb to the acer of 22-11-22 after ever cutting it is a mix of urea DAP and potash i usually spread it 4 times a year starting at green up so that should be about 480lb units of potash a year to the acre if my math it right. Everybody around here is telling me that I am using way to much fertilizer and especially wasting my money on putting out that much potash but I am also trying to get the best quality and yields I can get. I tried using a little less one year and it got my k levels down to low moderate on my soil test. So I hope I'm doing it right and not wasting my money.


----------



## somedevildawg (Jun 20, 2011)

That’s a very healthy dose for sure....shouldn’t be deficient in potash. It’s the number one killer for a Bermuda grass field. I thought I remebered you applying copious amounts so I didn’t suspect that the problem although it has the same type of effect. What does your ph normally show...are your soils known to have higher AL content? That certainly could be a cause but with the fertilization schedule you use, I’m sure you’re keeping an eye on the ph....just a thought


----------



## Ranger518 (Aug 6, 2016)

somedevildawg said:


> That's a very healthy dose for sure....shouldn't be deficient in potash. It's the number one killer for a Bermuda grass field. I thought I remebered you applying copious amounts so I didn't suspect that the problem although it has the same type of effect. What does your ph normally show...are your soils known to have higher AL content? That certainly could be a cause but with the fertilization schedule you use, I'm sure you're keeping an eye on the ph....just a thought


Field was limed the last year it was in row crop production so about 6 years ago and my ph has been 6.8 or 
higher the last 4 years. This year it was 6.9 but it was taken about a month later then usual. I am willing to change the amount and type of fertilizer but not sure what I need to add or take away. I just kinda came up with the custom blend on my own based on my soil test needs and what nutrients are supposedly taken away per ton of hay taken off.


----------



## r82230 (Mar 1, 2016)

What I know about growing B-grass wouldn't fill a p..s ants brain.  BUT sulfur can be a critical building block for a lot of crops and it seems we aren't getting much of the free stuff anymore. Alfalfa needs like 6# of sulfur per ton of hay removed.

Do you know the removal rate for B-grass, by chance?

I seem to still get about 12# from other sources, so I apply 50# AMS, which is my next cheapest source of sulfur (stuff coming down in the rain is the cheapest). Being you irrigate, perhaps there could be some in your water too.

Larry

PS I also apply 2# boron. Maybe you are missing a trace element. :huh:


----------



## Texasmark (Dec 20, 2011)

somedevildawg said:


> I think my first course of action would be to run a ripper, like a hay king etc., through it to try and encourage some root growth and new stolon action. I think that next year I would leave the prowl in the barn, how many years you been using prowl, after a few the offending grasses should be controlled enuf anyways.
> It looks like a lot of T85 fields I see, poor sod coverage and spotty. Maybe plant a grain over the winter and cut earlier before greenup and use a post herbicide like Cimmaron....then run over again with ripper, plugger, etc.
> I'm not certain, but it's worth a try.....last course of action would be a resprig. Not sure you're there yet....


I have a Hay King Pasture Renovator and on coastal and common bermuda it does the trick...aerates the soil with minimum surface disturbance and the coulters slice the runners making new plants out of every node that has rooted. Other thing is our ag. school mentions that bermuda has to be re-sprigged ever so often...don't recall the reason.

On your fertilizer, ever think you might be burning your grass with too much N and not enough moisture? What about secondary nutrients? Most fertilizer just offer primary NPK but some, like American Plant Food in Galena Park, Tx. have a comprehensive mix which includes secondary and their N is Sulphate, not Nitrate. I find that my plants like some of both every so often.

Just some thoughts.


----------



## Ranger518 (Aug 6, 2016)

Texasmark said:


> I have a Hay King Pasture Renovator and on coastal and common bermuda it does the trick...aerates the soil with minimum surface disturbance and the coulters slice the runners making new plants out of every node that has rooted. Other thing is our ag. school mentions that bermuda has to be re-sprigged ever so often...don't recall the reason.
> 
> On your fertilizer, ever think you might be burning your grass with too much N and not enough moisture? What about secondary nutrients? Most fertilizer just offer primary NPK but some, like American Plant Food in Galena Park, Tx. have a comprehensive mix which includes secondary and their N is Sulphate, not Nitrate. I find that my plants like some of both every so often.
> 
> Just some thoughts.


I am going to be looking for a ripper type this winter do to everybody recommendations and see what happens. I don't think I am burning it do to fertilizer as I am using granulated urea or ammonium sulfate and have always spread it in the rain or just before it.


----------



## somedevildawg (Jun 20, 2011)

Should be able to pick up a used one cheap.....


----------



## luke strawwalker (Jul 31, 2014)

Look for a used renovator with disk coulters in front and fertilizer knives in back... That's what we have. Run it across the field then again at an angle to the first pass-- the field will be cut into "diamond shaped" segments as the lines criss-cross each other. All the stolons cut apart from each other develop into new plants and thicken the stand. Later! OL J R


----------



## clowers (Feb 11, 2011)

You have a name brand or a picture Luke?


----------



## Tx Jim (Jun 30, 2014)

I'm not Luke but Hay King makes a pasture renovator similar to what he describes.


----------



## Texasmark (Dec 20, 2011)

Helping a neighbor who just bought a farm. Hay patch to be was overgrown with 2-3' stemy weeds popular in this area this time of the year. Field hadn't seen steel in over the 42 years I have lived across the street.

We had 4" of rain a couple of weeks ago and traces several times since. First off I went over it with a hog, rotary cutter to chop all the weeds up in small pieces. Then went over it twice with a heavy one way disc and didn't get much penetration; couple of inches or so. Came in with my 3 pt, Hay King Pasture Renovator, dropped it down to about 8-10" penetration and made a run. Came back with a weighted disc harrow at about a 30 degree angle to the ripper and field is ready for winter set-aside. I guarantee you that a HKPR will get down below the root zone without the soil disturbance of a moldboard and the bumpy aftermath that hard clay has to offer .

Other thing I do with it is prior to fertilizing, I come in with it and run contour plowing patterns on my hills in my grass hay patch. The HK has minimum soil disturbance thanks to the coulter preceding each shank which slices my clay rather than it surfacing as a clump resulting in dead grass. Then, as close to a rain as possible I broadcast my fertilizer and let mom-nature put it in the root zone.

Some of the best money I ever spent and believe it or not, bought it from my local JD dealer. I noticed in the Dallas area, several show up in Craigs List, Farm and Garden. Takes 8-10 hp per shank if you want to run in mid range gears. It's probably the best built, strongest implement you ever put on your 3 pt.


----------



## clowers (Feb 11, 2011)

I very interested in one 8'-10'


----------



## Texasmark (Dec 20, 2011)

clowers said:


> I very interested in one 8'-10'


Look in the East Texas and Deep East Texas Farm and garden Craigs list. I saw 2 and I cruise both those sites frequently. One or both may have been near you.

Edit: Wasn't busy yesterday PM and looked at the Craig's Lists in Dallas, E. Tx., and Deep E. Tx. and there were none still listed. Seems somebody scooped them up. Did a web. search and found new ones for sale.


----------



## clowers (Feb 11, 2011)

I found one on tractor house in seguin.


----------



## Ranger518 (Aug 6, 2016)

They are kinda hard to find 90% of the ones I found were in TX so they must be really popular there. They are also kinda pricey for what they are but I did finally find a a good deal on one Saturday and made the 11 hour round trip to pick it up so Hopefully it helps my fields out.


----------



## clowers (Feb 11, 2011)

When are you going to do your ground Ranger


----------



## Texasmark (Dec 20, 2011)

Ranger518 said:


> They are kinda hard to find 90% of the ones I found were in TX so they must be really popular there. They are also kinda pricey for what they are but I did finally find a a good deal on one Saturday and made the 11 hour round trip to pick it up so Hopefully it helps my fields out.


That ought to work. On Texas usage, they are great for hard clay soils and Texas has it's share. Heavy clay makes the best cotton and for a long time, Cotton was King here. Still a lot grown, long staple, but not like years ago.


----------



## Ranger518 (Aug 6, 2016)

clowers said:


> When are you going to do your ground Ranger


Not real sure may give it a try this fall to help loosen it up and see how it works. But from what I have been told and understand is that with Bermuda it is best to do it in spring after green up and has some growth so when the coulters cut the Bermuda it forums a new plant and helps thicken the stand.


----------



## Ranger518 (Aug 6, 2016)

For those of you that have used a pasture renovator is it best to drag a smooth roller or cultipacker behind it to kinda help keep everything smooth and to help keep any roots it pulled up packed back down?


----------



## somedevildawg (Jun 20, 2011)

Ranger518 said:


> For those of you that have used a pasture renovator is it best to drag a smooth roller or cultipacker behind it to kinda help keep everything smooth and to help keep any roots it pulled up packed back down?


No....not in sandy soils anyway.


----------



## clowers (Feb 11, 2011)

My is not sandy, I may drag a roller behind mine.


----------



## Texasmark (Dec 20, 2011)

The few times I contacted roots, if shallow, the coulters sliced through them. On the larger ones which were usually deeper, they just broke. Not enough surface disturbance to worry about.

Not sure a roller would or wouldn do any good as the "springiness" of the root may just lay down as the roller passes and pop back up. Would halp to level the field as there is a "slight" hump where the soil is displaced by the blade in my clay soil.


----------



## pvcman (Jul 18, 2014)

From your soil analysis it looks like only 60lbs/A of N is recommended. You have adequate P and K. I would just apply N to part of the field and see what happens.


----------



## clowers (Feb 11, 2011)

Still a bunch of the thoughts, Mark thanks for giving me ideas.


----------



## Texasmark (Dec 20, 2011)

Ranger518 said:


> For those of you that have used a pasture renovator is it best to drag a smooth roller or cultipacker behind it to kinda help keep everything smooth and to help keep any roots it pulled up packed back down?


Mine doesn't leave any surface disturbance to speak of, even on hard, dry, clay. The coulters are sharp and slice through bermuda runners and other migrating grasses. I have on occasion, when running adjacent to a tree line, cut through roots, largest being inch to inch and a half recalling, and the ends of it stuck up.....where the Coulter didn't cut through it and the blade pulled on it before it broke in half. I wouldn't roll it as you are packing down the hole you just dug to aerate the soil. Leave it be.


----------

