# Best paint for Metal gates and pens



## SilentH

Hello,

I am looking to start repainting my metal cattle pens and some oil field pipe gates. Looking for the best paint product line out there... I am not the type who goes cheaply then have to repaint it in 2 to 3 years...

Here's is Rustoleum's recommendation

"Thank you for contacting Rust-Oleum Product Support.

Thank you for your interest in Rust-Oleum's products. We would recommend to use the Professional High Performance Enamel Coatings with the Clean Metal Primer (#7780). 7780 Clean Metal Primer is designed for lightly rusted, bare metal, or previously painted surfaces. Professional Enamel provide a durable protective coating with superior rust prevention, and excellent resistance to abrasion, fading, chipping, and dulling. It applies easily, provides excellent coverage and dries fast to a tough attractive finish."

Any thoughts on other product lines, etc.

Thanks,

Mark


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## 8350HiTech

Whatever you choose, use hardener.


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## PaMike

Although paint is important prep is even more important. I am a fan of sandblasting. I then either get it powdercoated if part is mobile or paint with automotive grade paint. Like HiTech said, use hardener. Well worth the cost for the durability and shine


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## somedevildawg

I've used majic with good results, prep is the key.......


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## mlappin

Have had pretty good luck with rustoleum actually. Carefully read the cans though for recommended thinner, I use a lot of the primer for rusted metal, or fish oil primer as we call it, the quart cans recommend one thinner while the gallon cans recommend another, the gallon cans are the "professional" formula.


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## carcajou

Not sure if this is available in the US. Corrostop Ultra It is a plastic enamel paint that i have been using for about 15 years. IMHO the best outdoor steel paint available. The sawmills and implements i painted 15 years ago still look like new. Highly recommended


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## ARD Farm

mlappin said:


> Have had pretty good luck with rustoleum actually. Carefully read the cans though for recommended thinner, I use a lot of the primer for rusted metal, or fish oil primer as we call it, the quart cans recommend one thinner while the gallon cans recommend another, the gallon cans are the "professional" formula.


I Wonder if that will work on the two gates I shot the hell out of... To lazy to open them to access the target backstop at 250 yards....


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## DohrmannEnt

PaMike said:


> Although paint is important prep is even more important. I am a fan of sandblasting. I then either get it powdercoated if part is mobile or paint with automotive grade paint. Like HiTech said, use hardener. Well worth the cost for the durability and shine


I agree - sandblast then powdercoat. If you really want it to last have the powercoater lay down a powdercoat primer before adding the finish powdercoat. On our parts, we switched from paint to powder several years ago and have had much better durability. On some of the more cosmetic parts, we have them primed first which holds up quite a bit better and the prime coat doesn't add too much to the cost as it has already been cleaned and prepped.

Good Luck - let us know what you do.


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## Kaen3e

My real job is a sherwin Williams rep so I guess my .02 may belong here. I agree with the other statements. Prep is key. Beyond that for a lower cost system use kemkromic primer with a topcoat of preference, industrial urethane alkyd or sherkem are good solid performers that won't break the bank.

The system I prefer to use on my equipment and gates is a prime coat of macropoxy646 or duraplate235 these are catalyzed primers that can be left without topcoating(all though they will fade and chalk) topcoat with sherkem or other urethane product


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## Tx Jim

I use the same type paint my Dad used when I was younger. Aluminum paint I did little prep & no peeling and that was 14 yrs ago. My neighbor regularly cleans & paints and his black paint still peels off but I don't know what brand paint he uses..


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