# Carburetor help



## Aaroncboo (Sep 21, 2014)

I have two Farmall 560s that I use as the main tractors around the farm. I rebuilt the carburetor using a complete kit from Steiners and a YouTube video that went pretty in-depth on how to do it. The problem is is it running rough. I pulled plug wires off the spark plugs one at a time while it was running to see if that made a difference and it didn't do anything to change how it ran. Sounds kinda like a old John deere running on 2 cylinders(not that there's anything wrong with that 😊 just not on this tractor). The idle air screw towards the top of the carburetor does little to nothing to change anything which leads me to think something's going on was how it was redone. I'm not a carb guy by any means but am trying to learn. I don't want to run these like this for fear of causing more damage. I have a 460 that runs beautifully and I have no plans of touching that one lol. I do have a tech manual I read though but sometimes experience and outside thinking helps. Any ideas or suggestions would be helpful.


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## KurtS1 (Jun 8, 2020)

What does the inside of your fuel tank look like? I have had issues with the sediment bowl inlet in the tank, getting partially plugged with rust/debris, making it run poorly. Try getting most of the fuel out of the tank and then unscrew the sediment bowl from the bottom of the tank and see if it is partially plugged and see just how much junk is in there. Steiner and others sell a screen to go on top of the sediment bowl, in the tank, to help alleviate this. You may want to pull the tank and clean it/line it or have it done.


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## Aaroncboo (Sep 21, 2014)

The inside looks good. I actually was having issues a few years ago with it choking out and dying. So I drained the tank and took the fuel bowl out and installed a 3/4 to 1 inch tall piece of steel tubing to keep the inlet off the floor of the tank. I have had no issues with the tank sense.


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## Gearclash (Nov 25, 2010)

You need to figure out whether this miss is coming from the fuel side of things, or the ignition. It is not impossible it is ignition related. First off, when does the engine miss? Only when idling, under load, during acceleration?


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## Aaroncboo (Sep 21, 2014)

It happens all the time. But not as bad during idling but under a load is the worst. I have a new exhaust and intake manifold on it. The exhaust manifold had a couple of big cracks in it and rather than trying to separate the intake and exhaust I just found it easier to buy two new ones.


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## Ox76 (Oct 22, 2018)

I've had leaking intake manifolds do things similar to this. Also check the rotor/cap on distributor. If nothing changed when pulling plug wires I would be inclined to say it's ignition related.


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## Aaroncboo (Sep 21, 2014)

Sorry I meant when I pulled plug wires one at a time there was a change in how it ran. Sorry I didn't catch that when typing it out. Had my 6 week old son in my lap at the time and was doing 3 different things at once including hitting the back button after I had originally typed it all out.... Lol. I was hoping to find a wire that did nothing. It has the electronic ignition in it so that takes care of the points aspect of it.


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## Aaroncboo (Sep 21, 2014)

Would checking and adjusting the valves so anything to help. Or would it just be smart to do anyways?


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## broadriverhay (Jun 13, 2014)

Ensure the timing is correct before condemning the carburetor.


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## Troy Farmer (Jul 31, 2011)

Fuel level in carb. bowl?


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## Ox76 (Oct 22, 2018)

Yes to valves. Most people don't even think about it. While you're in there it can be done in under an hour and will ensure you don't burn a valve.


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## Aaroncboo (Sep 21, 2014)

So just an update I took the valve cover off and readjusted the valve clearance. Most were open a bit too much and 2 were way outta wack. I cleaned and regapped the sparkplugs and put it all back together. Runs a heck of a lot nicer now. Real smooth. Still pops and misses a little bit but no where near as bad. Would still like to get someone more knowledgeable than me to adjust the carb and check timing but no one around here does that anymore. Thats why I'm trying to learn. At least it is better than before.


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## Ox76 (Oct 22, 2018)

Make sure the intake bolts are tight. After that it'll be carb probably.


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## Aaroncboo (Sep 21, 2014)

How tight is tight? I have a habit of breaking bolts but there's no way to get a torque wrench in there... I just replaced both the intake and exhaust manifold too.


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## Ox76 (Oct 22, 2018)

Without a torque wrench it's very difficult to describe how tight is good. Everybody's snug is different. I'll try with this: Put about 15 to 20 lbs of force on a regular sized 3/8" ratchet. Basically what you'll want to do is check all those bolts for loose ones. If one is loose give it a tug until it's not and matches the other ones.


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## Gearclash (Nov 25, 2010)

Since you replaced the manifolds, you will definitely need to check and retorque the manifold bolts. It may take several retightenings before the torque stays stable. That said I don’t think a manifold leak is likely to be your trouble when you say the engine runs worse as its loaded up. A vacuum leak works the opposite. I would look either toward the ignition having a fault somewhere (electronic ignition is a plus but there can still be cap, rotor, wire or plug faults), or the high speed fuel mixture is off. With the engine under load slowly pull the choke on and see how that affects the engine. If you can make it run better by using the choke, you know the main fuel circuit is too lean.


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## dieselmike (Feb 24, 2018)

Check the firing order.


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## Aaroncboo (Sep 21, 2014)

Firing order is good. I did notice that the distributor was loose and may have rotated. Is there a way to check to see where it should be?


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## PaulN (Mar 4, 2014)

There is usually a punch mark or chisel mark on both the stationary part and the rotating part. Getting those 2 marks aligned would be a good starting point.


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## Ox76 (Oct 22, 2018)

Turn it till it's smooth again. It'll let you know when it's not happy. Then see if it starts easy when warm. If not, retard the timing a little and try again. I know proper procedure is supposed to use timing light but much of this stuff can be done by ear.


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## Aaroncboo (Sep 21, 2014)

That's kinda what I did ox. There were no marks on it to go by so I just turned it slowly and found where I thought it ran best. I'm sure it's not perfect but it run better than it did.


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## broadriverhay (Jun 13, 2014)

Remember on April 3 , I said check timing. Erratic running is usually ignition related.


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## Aaroncboo (Sep 21, 2014)

Yes. This is the second 560 I'm working on. I knew the other one was timed correct. This one just runs rough and I didn't notice the distributor until yesterday. I did a carb kit plugs and wires went to do the cap and rotor and saw it wiggle.


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## Ox76 (Oct 22, 2018)

Just remembered something - I had an old Farmall H once that had a flutter while running and wouldn't go away after everything was done (carb rebuild, tune up kit, adjusted valves, checked manifolds, etc.). Turns out the distributor was worn out and the shaft that hold the rotor was wobbling around changing the timing and gap on the points. But you having electronic ignition I don't think this would matter much. Just a passing thought and might trigger something for you.


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