# PTO HP in front of your Round baler?



## jettex

Out of curiosity someone asked in another post how much HP you have in front of you square baler. I was wondering how much HP you have in front of your round baler and what round baler are you using. I am thinking of buying a used tractor and baler. I am pretty sure it will have to be at least 90 HP but will also use it on a square baler too.


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## Beav

Run our NH BR7060 4x5 with a NH T4-95 works well bale 5 to 7 mph


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## r82230

Welcome, jet.

I use a tractor with 115HP, FWA. In a pinch I have used a 70 HP, with FWA, on a 5' x 5' baler. But with a little bit of a hill, you might need to ask if I had to change my underwear or not, when using the smaller tractor.  And I'm not talking about big, long, large hills. So there can be some HP variances (along with tractor's weight), base upon local terrain it seems.

Larry


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## ozarkian

I use:

Case IH 5240 105 hp

Kubota M125x 125hp

John Deere 467 round baler


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## MistyRidgeFarm

JD 5100M MFWD (100hp) in front of a BR740 4x5 baler. Several of my fields have a slope on them. I can bale with my old JD 5300 (~50 hp) on level ground but get on some slopes and the baler pushes it around. I'd guess the horse power requirement is really about the size of the baler, speed, and terrain you are haying. Tractor weight and 2/4 wheel drive are just as important.


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## Troy Farmer

JD 5083E (4wd) 65 PTO HP with a JD 459 4X5. Most fields are flat, but I custom on another fellow's place with hills have to run a gear lower up hill. No trouble with the baler pushing the tractor downhill.


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## Gearclash

5x6 round balers. 115hp and 130hp. Used to have a 95 hp and it would run out of power quite quickly.


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## MrLuggs

Agco LT75 (100 engine/75 pto) in front of my JD468


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## rjmoses

Run a NH BR780A 5x6 behind a NH TS135A (135HP). Sometimes have to down shift with a full bale going uphill.

Ralph


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## BWfarms

MX110 (specs 95 hp) and I pull a NH RB450 Utility (4x5) that requires 40 hp.


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## foz682

Massey 5460 (90hp) in front of our Claas 46 rotocut 4x4 baler, Mostly used for baleage, but some hay and bedding. Uses a lot more power to run the rotocut, especially if the knives aren't as sharp as they should be.

Also have used a BR7060, runs it no problem. Neighbor uses a Belarus 65hp tractor on that baler sometimes, doesn't work well, but gets the job done.


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## jettex

Thanks for all the great information. I live in Texas and my field is most flat but a little extra HP is better than not enough. Thanks for the info to on the speed you bale at.


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## Tx Jim

Welcome to HT

JD 4255(120 pto hp) pulling JD 467 on virtually level ground. I have utilized my Kubota(M7040 64 pto hp) which handled 467 fine when AC was out on JD. I make a 4X5.5 bale @ 6 mph.


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## Widairy

Running a Vermeer rancher 664 on a John Deere 7510 which dynoed 122 a couple of years ago. Makes 4x5.5 bales. Yesterday I was baling wet hay to be wrapped at 7.5 mph on gently sloping ground.


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## swmnhay

5 x 6 Vermeer N cornstalk special baler.I use 160 hp MF 8450.I don't need 160 but it is nice to have if needed baling in hills or pushing it.I need the power for tillage so that is main reason for having a tractor that big on the baler.It also rides a whole lot nicer then smaller tractors.Duals,air ride cab and seat help a lot especially if pushing it 12 mph.


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## StxPecans

Running a rancher 665 making 5x5.5 been using a 5100e mostly in 540e pto baling slow like 5mph normally due to rough fields.


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## Josh in WNY

I have a Claas 62S 4x5 baler with net wrap and pull it (normally) behind a JD 4230 (~105 HP) in B1/B2 (not sure what mph that is). The ground speed is really not an issue since it's an older baler and the pickup turns a lot slower than newer balers. I have run it on our Ford 5000 before (~60 HP), but it would lug it a bit when it got to a full bale. The Ford has bolt in weights and loaded tires in the back end... without that I would be a little uncomfortable on hills with the baler.

I think (as was previously stated) that it's more about the weight/traction necessary to control the baler than the actual HP needed to run it.


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## JD3430

Kubota's 
M-126X 126/108 4WD 
M-135X 135/118 4WD
Pulling a BR7060 sileage special on Hilly ground


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## mlappin

I have ran my BR740A with my Oliver 1600 diesel (65-70 hp, pump was turned up) and it ran it, had to be VERY careful on hillsides or other uneven terrain. Unballasted weight of it is around 7600lbs.

Now I run the baler with a White 2-110, 125hp on the dyno according to previous owner. Can't be stupid of course, but much more stable and safer on uneven terrain. It weighs in at roughly 12,500-13000lbs, huge difference on how it handles the baler.


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## haybaler101

I ran a NH BR 780A on a NH 8670 w/ fwa rated 145 hp. 8-10 mph in hay and have hit 13 in straw, no hp worries. Started out with an IH 806D on a NH 688 rated at 95 hp. On the big hills, I couldn’t hide because the smoke plume looked like a locomotive was coming.


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## glasswrongsize

Running a 5x6 New Idea fixed chamber baler with my Farmall 460 (@50 HP) at @6 mph. Ground is pretty flat and I don't have to worry about the Full Bale alarm going off...I just keep going 'til the ole tractor is gasping for wind than hit the auto-tie button. Bales weight between 1100-1500 lbs depending on crop, moisture, and how hard I stand on the ole girl's throat and make her gasp for breath

Mark

Of course, them's Farmall horses... don't take as many of those red hosses as the green n yaller ones. :lol:

Mark

...oh heck Dawg; I didn't intend for you to see that last part.


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## Texasmark

jettex said:


> Out of curiosity someone asked in another post how much HP you have in front of you square baler. I was wondering how much HP you have in front of your round baler and what round baler are you using. I am thinking of buying a used tractor and baler. I am pretty sure it will have to be at least 90 HP but will also use it on a square baler too.


 I had a 100 hp JD 4230 and a 5x6 JD 530 roller that was a good match.....wouldn't use less. Currently running a Branson 6530, 57 PTO hp on a JD 375 that rolls a 5' long but only 4' diameter roll weighing in at about 750# if you based the big bale mentioned at 1600#. The smaller rig is a match too.

I'd say a 4x6 roller, a JD 46X (X for whatever year-model it is) machine would match your 90 in average usage conditions without straining anything.


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## clowers

6415 or 7200 deer in front of either a 460 or 569 deere baler


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## cjsr8595

BWfarms said:


> MX110 (specs 95 hp) and I pull a NH RB450 Utility (4x5) that requires 40 hp.


how is that baler working for you? My local dealer doesn't have any. I've been digging online trying to find folks that have one to see how they like them.


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## BWfarms

cjsr8595 said:


> how is that baler working for you? My local dealer doesn't have any. I've been digging online trying to find folks that have one to see how they like them.


I bought it new and have used it for 5 seasons and it has been good to me. I bought it as a clearance model and got it cheaper than the bare bones twine only baler. Pretty much timing was on point when I bought, sales were slow. It is Auto Twine/Net with Bale Command II, crowder wheels, larger flotation tires, and bale ramp. I can change bale diameter from 30-60" on the fly and it makes a good bale. The bale is dependent on your raked window and speed. This baler does require you to go a little slower but I think you get more crop in a bale the slower you go. I typically drive 3.2-3.6 mph and I run the pto at about 490-500 rpm.

I also pull behind a 2wd 65A (57 pto) and in my opinion that's the minimum on my gently rolling fields with occasional steep part at 56-60". I don't make more than 500 bales a year and only do dry grass hay set at 58". I have helped a neighbor do his oat/wheat hay and it did fine. If I was doing more bales, a denser crop or baleage, I would go for the 450 Silage.

Couple of cons but they are minor:

In finer hay, chaff builds up on belts and above twine knife. You'll have to clean them off periodically when using net, not so much on twine unless your belts start tracking or knife fails to cut.

The way you feed the twine to the twine arms requires you to crawl underneath by the header to thread. The only time it sucks having to do it is while in the middle of baling. You can get dusty, but to minimize this, I have a piece of 3/4 pvc pipe that use to knock chaff off. Turn the pto off before working on baler (has to be said).


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## cjsr8595

BWfarms said:


> I bought it new and have used it for 5 seasons and it has been good to me. I bought it as a clearance model and got it cheaper than the bare bones twine only baler. Pretty much timing was on point when I bought, sales were slow. It is Auto Twine/Net with Bale Command II, crowder wheels, larger flotation tires, and bale ramp. I can change bale diameter from 30-60" on the fly and it makes a good bale. The bale is dependent on your raked window and speed. This baler does require you to go a little slower but I think you get more crop in a bale the slower you go. I typically drive 3.2-3.6 mph and I run the pto at about 490-500 rpm.
> 
> I also pull behind a 2wd 65A (57 pto) and in my opinion that's the minimum on my gently rolling fields with occasional steep part at 56-60". I don't make more than 500 bales a year and only do dry grass hay set at 58". I have helped a neighbor do his oat/wheat hay and it did fine. If I was doing more bales, a denser crop or baleage, I would go for the 450 Silage.
> 
> Couple of cons but they are minor:
> 
> In finer hay, chaff builds up on belts and above twine knife. You'll have to clean them off periodically when using net, not so much on twine unless your belts start tracking or knife fails to cut.
> 
> The way you feed the twine to the twine arms requires you to crawl underneath by the header to thread. The only time it sucks having to do it is while in the middle of baling. You can get dusty, but to minimize this, I have a piece of 3/4 pvc pipe that use to knock chaff off. Turn the pto off before working on baler (has to be said).


Thanks for the info. I appreciate all the insight. I noticed you said the baler requires you to go slower, just wondering what is the reasoning? I currently run an old M&W fixed chamber and bale between 5 and 6 mph in thick or thin hay. Its all my fields will allow. I was hoping to be able to run that fast but speed up the tie/net process. I can fill a bale in about 2 minutes in thick stuff, but it takes me another 70 seconds to tie.

Thanks again.


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## reckelhoff1000

I think the baler makes a big difference. My BR 780 seems to need quite a bit more power then other 5X6 balers I have used. My baling tractor is 145 at the PTO which is enough 95% of the time, but there are certain hills I do have to shift down.


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## ubadawg

I have a NH 664 net wrap Baler and use a Farmall 1066, 115hp . It takes a lot of HP to run a big baler! It will sure eat through the hay and the fuel.


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## Texasmark

My JD 375, rolling 5x4s that they claim (JD service manual) rolls averaged 1k#, requires min 45. I use 57 and when full and pressing to get that last little bit as the row is ending hear it grunt ever so often.


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## barnrope

I use a 7230R, an 8200, and a 4440 on my 5x6 balers. The 4440 is a little short in corn stalks in fast going.


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## KYhaymaker

barnrope said:


> I use a 7230R, an 8200, and a 4440 on my 5x6 balers. The 4440 is a little short in corn stalks in fast going.


Never baled cornstalks before. What is fast going? Seems like if you are pulling down a 4440 on relatively flat ground that would be hard on a baler for sure since all that hp is going through it.

Your sig line makes me nauseous lol.


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## Edd in KY

I use an old OMC595 drum style baler to make soft core grass hay for my own horses. Pull it with a JD5420 which is 65 PT hp. It works fine, but is a little slow and I have to be careful how I rake hay on some of the side hills. These are big bales that are all stored inside until fed and never leave the farm.

I was told that this tractor was not big enough to run the baler....but it does. But it would not work for someone in a big hurry.


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## jr in va

I pull a John Deere 535 baler, which is 5 X 6,with a Ford 6640 at 76 hp.Most of my fields a flat with a few gentle slopes on others.Usually travels around 5 mph.


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## valleyforage

Use a Kubota 9540 on flat ground and a ts110 on some of my steep ground, 4x5 baler. Had a Vermeer now have a JD and it seems to pull my Kubota down more than when I had the Vermeer.


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## farmersamm

90ish HP Oliver 1850 in front of a New Holland 650 baler.

Runs fine on the flat, or on a slope. The governor starts to search when the chamber is full, and it's time to wrap. And that depends on whether it's Bluestem, or Haygtrazer. Bluestem is heavier, and more dense.

Semi retired the old NH 846. Was about the best baler I ever owned. That thing will bale trees. It's still on the line, and ready to go when the other baler pukes. Chain balers rock!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


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## derrickmanx1

I have used an LS Tractor XU6168 (65hp) with my JD 468 and it does great about a bale every 1.7-2 mins. It does lug down on hills but have baled at 6 miles/hr with it on flat ground. I have bought a challenger Mt575b (165hp) with a CVT transmission. I can't wait to try the 468 with the 540E.


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## KS John

Just bought a JD 458, plan on using a 3020 (70 HP PTo rated). Not many hills in Kansas so I will be okay hopefully.


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## Vol

KS John said:


> Just bought a JD 458, plan on using a 3020 (70 HP PTo rated). Not many hills in Kansas so I will be okay hopefully.


Should be just right.

Regards, Mike


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## jr in va

KS John said:


> Just bought a JD 458, plan on using a 3020 (70 HP PTo rated). Not many hills in Kansas so I will be okay hopefully.


 I've pulled a 456 with a 2550 (65 hp) belonging to a neighbor.Did a good job.In a pinch,I pulled my 535 (5X6) with a Ford 5000 (67hp).I knew I had it behind me but got the hay baled.Normally I pull it with a 77 hp.

Flat ground,mostly.Half width windrow.

Baled many a bale with a 4.75 by 5 New Holland 853 using a 5000.


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## outlaw50

run a puma 165 on caseih 565 rd baler 5x6 baler , 7.5 mph


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## outlaw50

run a puma 165 on caseih 565 rd baler 5x6 baler , 7.5 mph


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## Orchard6

75ish hp on a 4x5 M&W 1500 at 5-6 mph.


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## barnrope

Too much power is way better than not enough power!


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## Dan_GA

MF 4710 (100hp/88 PTO hp) in front of a MF 2946 (4x6). We generally bale 4x5 for hay we intend on selling and have baled at 11/12mph on our somewhat flat fields if we need to race rain, but generally bale 6-8mph. Can barely tell the difference between silage and dry hay bales.


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## notmydaytoday

Plan is 4020 JD in front of BR7060 both new to me this year.


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## scotk9

Ford TW20 135 PTO, NH Br7090, 5x5 1700# bales, 6 to 7 mph, flat Texas coastal plain. I have pulled the baler with my 5610 that's turned up to 75 hp with no problems.


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## Tx Jim

scotk9

May I ask what type hay & % moisture content are these 1700# 5X5 bales? Has weight of bales been confirmed by a scale or guesstimated?

Thanks,Jim


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## mlappin

barnrope said:


> Too much power is way better than not enough power!


Most of the time, yes. My NH644 had shear bolts instead of a slip clutch, about time the coal really rolled with the Oliver 1600 on it you better be shifting down or plan on changing the shear bolt. Current baler has a slip clutch and could kill the Oliver 1600 outright before slipping. White 2-110 works much better on the BR740A, you'd need a barrel of shear bolts though with the White on a 644. I can imagine with 110hp+ in front of the 644 you'd blow shear bolts with zero warning


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## scotk9

Tx Jim
12/16% weighed at Damon Feed, generally take 6 bales and average them out, pressure on baler is set at 1800.


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## scotk9

Grass is mostly b Dahl bluestem and Bahia.


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## Tx Jim

scotk9

1700 # 5x5 bale @ 12-16% moisture weighed on a scale is impressive.

On another tractor discussion forum a poster stated his NH chain baler that he stated made 6X6 bales(??) made bales that weighed 2000#s. I asked if he was just guessing or he weighed bales on scales. He stated he could determine the bale wight by how light his tractor got in the rear when lifting bales & he thought they weighed a ton.


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## scotk9

I keep 200 bales a year for my "wife's" cows and sell the rest, I get weight tickets from the feed store to show people how much the bales weighed. That's the reason I started making my own hay in 95 I took some hay I had bought and they were several hundred pounds light per bale. That's a lot of money when you are buying two hundred bales a year.


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## Texasmark

Josh in WNY said:


> I have a Claas 62S 4x5 baler with net wrap and pull it (normally) behind a JD 4230 (~105 HP) in B1/B2 (not sure what mph that is). The ground speed is really not an issue since it's an older baler and the pickup turns a lot slower than newer balers. I have run it on our Ford 5000 before (~60 HP), but it would lug it a bit when it got to a full bale. The Ford has bolt in weights and loaded tires in the back end... without that I would be a little uncomfortable on hills with the baler.
> 
> I think (as was previously stated) that it's more about the weight/traction necessary to control the baler than the actual HP needed to run it.


I had my 4230c hooked to a JD 530 (5x6) and it would grunt sometimes on a 2% grade when at the end of the roll; sorghum-sudan.


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## Tx Jim

Mark

Please don't take offence but what is a JD 4230C as you're the only person I've seen that uses that nomenclature for a JD4230. Does the C stand for cab AKA SGB? The reason 4230 was grunting is probably because the hay moisture content was too high. LOL


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## BWfarms

Maybe CaseIH 4230?


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## snoopy

farmersamm said:


> 90ish HP Oliver 1850 in front of a New Holland 650 baler.
> 
> Runs fine on the flat, or on a slope. The governor starts to search when the chamber is full, and it's time to wrap. And that depends on whether it's Bluestem, or Haygtrazer. Bluestem is heavier, and more dense.
> 
> Semi retired the old NH 846. Was about the best baler I ever owned. That thing will bale trees. It's still on the line, and ready to go when the other baler pukes. Chain balers rock!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!  I would be happy to sell you another 846.


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## AncientIron

I run a 4020 on a nh 664 baler. Handles it fine.


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## 7740

86 pto horsepower twisting my BR7060 Silage Special. Never baled anything other than hay, does well at that.


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## chevytaHOE5674

170hp pulling a NH BR7070 crop cutter baling dry hay and baleage at anywhere from 5 to 9+mph with and without the knives in. Can run it on my other 110hp tractors but prefer the bigger horse with the full powershift and no dry clutch to worry about while net wrapping.


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## Tx Jim

Josh in WNY said:


> I have a Claas 62S 4x5 baler with net wrap and pull it (normally) behind a JD 4230 (~105 HP) in B1/B2 (not sure what mph that is). The ground speed is really not an issue since it's an older baler and the pickup turns a lot slower than newer balers.


If your 4230 has 18.4X38 rear tires B1 should be 5 MPH & B2 should be 6 MPH depending on engine rpm's. That's the speed my 4255 is according to the radar light on my tractor @ around 1800 engine rpm's.

There's nothing as much fun as being late to the "party"! LOL


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## Texasmark

Jim,

Yes C is short for Sound Guard Cab and never saw the acronym used by anybody. On moisture, yes it was running a little wet but it wasn't excessive. Customer likes them that way.


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## Tx Jim

Mark

I was brain washed when I attended JD sales meetings when 4230 were brand spanking new that 4230/4430's had Sound Gard bodies(SGB) not cabs. :lol:


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## AncientIron

I pull my nh664 baler behind an IH 1466. The old girl is a bit tired but probably around that 120-125 mark now. Probably Time to refresh the plant in the old girl.s he smokes black all the time. ????


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## endrow

Used to run a NH644 with a IH686 . That's a strong 65HP . For me that is about as small as I would want to go , and I am sure a newer 65Hp compact tractor, would never handle a 4X5 baler on the hills like that 686 did .


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