# John Deere 328 Sq Baler Trouble



## CaseIH (Feb 6, 2016)

Okay, so I recently bought a John Deere 328 Square Baler. Had it run through a dealership shop and was told everything was "good to go"... Brought it home today and set up to do some re baling of rounds into squares. Had my help all lined up and ready to go and it was an absolute nightmare... This thing is missing more bales then its baling.... Gobs of string rapping up around the knotters, it would bale two bales and that would be all she wrote, why would it be doing that? Dealer put 9000 thistle twine in it, from what I see that should be right??? After fooling with this thing for 2 plus hours I then started noticing a burning smell coming from the main drive line where it hooks in passing the slip clutch disk.... Any thoughts??? I am at an udder loss now, really hope I didn't buy a turd but I am wondering....

Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated!


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## VA Haymaker (Jul 1, 2014)

CaseIH said:


> Okay, so I recently bought a John Deere 328 Square Baler. Had it run through a dealership shop and was told everything was "good to go"... Brought it home today and set up to do some re baling of rounds into squares. Had my help all lined up and ready to go and it was an absolute nightmare... This thing is missing more bales then its baling.... Gobs of string rapping up around the knotters, it would bale two bales and that would be all she wrote, why would it be doing that? Dealer put 9000 thistle twine in it, from what I see that should be right??? After fooling with this thing for 2 plus hours I then started noticing a burning smell coming from the main drive line where it hooks in passing the slip clutch disk.... Any thoughts??? I am at an udder loss now, really hope I didn't buy a turd but I am wondering....
> 
> Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated!


Others more knowledgeable with chime-in, but here are some thoughts....

Do you have a manual? There is a good section in it on troubleshooting the knotters - with illustrations. You can view it on JD's website at: http://manuals.deere.com/omview/OME131730_19/OME131730_19.htm

How hard are you feeding the baler? Doesn't sound like you're shearing any flywheel pins from "normal over feeding", I should think the pick-up belt would slip before the PTO slip clutch - which makes me think you're slip clutch needs adjusted - but again, let others comment on this.

I like to run my baler NH (haven't ran my JD baler yet) at 540 PTO rpms. Everything is better at that speed - for me.

The 9000 sisal twine should work great.

Start with the manual and hopefully others more knowledgeable than me can chime-in.

IMHO - the 328 is a very good baler.

Good luck,

Bill


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## CaseIH (Feb 6, 2016)

Thanks for the insight Bill, we definitely where not over feeding, we where using a fork for most of the 2 hours.LOL! I do not have a manual, but I'm checking the website you mentioned now.


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## 8350HiTech (Jul 26, 2013)

So much sisal twine is junk now, especially the thin stuff (9000). I'd switch to 7200 or plastic before being sure you have a knotter problem.


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## 8350HiTech (Jul 26, 2013)

Also, forking hay into a baler is not a good way to try it out. Balers like consistent feeding. It's amazing how poorly a baler will work when hand feeding and how well that same baler will work when under actual field conditions.


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## CaseIH (Feb 6, 2016)

8350HiTech,

Yes I would have to agree with your remarks about feeding, I just got the baler though and was itching to run it. When I got the order for square bales I thought, perfect timing... Little did I know what a nightmare it was going to turn into....


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## VA Haymaker (Jul 1, 2014)

Here is a video of New Holland knotters and how they work. JD knotters are similar - so it will help you visualize what's going on with tying a knot.






I'm guessing the twine wrapping is around the bill hook. It may be that the knot is not being wiped off the bill hook.


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## Tx Jim (Jun 30, 2014)

If you smell clutch fibers burning you need to tighten pto slip clutch up a little. I presume flywheel shear bolt is intact & in place?? You can't roll hay out and bale it? My neighbor rolls out hay and bales it although driving very slowly every week that weather permits.


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## slowzuki (Mar 8, 2011)

If it sat out any time the bill hooks can get rusty and need polished with fine emery cloth or the knots will hang and the twine will wrap around everything.


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## CaseIH (Feb 6, 2016)

Tx Jim,

Yes my original intention was to roll it out, fluff it a little then bale it, but we had a heck of a time. The twine is balling up on the bill hooks and creating balls of twine, wrapping all around the bill hooks. The shear bolt is in tact and in place still. I was also wondering about the slip clutch, I am going to tighten it up a little and see what happens.


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## CaseIH (Feb 6, 2016)

slowzuki,

Yes the baler sat out for a couple months, there didn't appear to be any rust on them but with the way they are situated and with all the sheet metal wrapped around that area its kind of tough to really see everything. I'm working this weekend but plan on digging into it Monday to see what I can figure out. Lots of good info on here and allot of ideas I need to explore a little more.

Thanks for the insight!


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## Josh in WNY (Sep 7, 2010)

That baler should run fine on 9000 twine. Unless you were lucky, you may not have gotten "The Baler Guy" at the dealer to be the one to look it over for you.

For the knotters, I'm assuming that it is cutting the twine fine, but not cleaning it off the billhook, correct? If that's the case when you get it into the shop, remove the lower bolt holding the knotters down and swing them up (be careful, the knife/wiper arm will want to swing across and nail your fingers). From here you should be able to get a better look at the bill hooks to see what kind of condition they are in.

The next thing I would check would be to see if there is any slop in the wiper arm bushings. There should be very little motion in the wiper arm other than rotating around its shaft.

If the wiper arm bushings are good, then check the wiper clearance to the billhook. It should be a snug fit that requires 5-15 lbs of force to move across the billhook. The wiper plate should be held on with a couple small bolts so that you can adjust it.

For the slip clutch, the initial length the springs should be set to is 1-21/32 inches +/- 1/32 inch. The clutch should slip at 400 to 500 lbs-ft of torque. Is this a new baler or a used one with brand new clutch plates? If so, there might be some oil or something on them from packaging that is being burned off.

I would recommend that you get the shop manual for the baler on a CD from JD. I forget what mine cost, but it wasn't too much money and I can print out the pages I need and not care if they get torn/lost/smudged/etc.

Hope this helps. Let us know what else you find.


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## Troy Farmer (Jul 31, 2011)

One of the worst things you can do with that baler is feed it with a pitchfork. Been there, done that, won't do it again. A lot of good advice on this thread. I bet your bill hooks need a good polish.


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## Wethay (Jul 17, 2015)

When you unbolt the knotter and swing it up make sure you are not in a tying cycle. As the knotter pivots up there should be a drag as the wiper goes across the bill hook. I ran 7200 sisal in mine until this year when I couldn't get it. I had no more problems with 7200 than with plastic. I would like to go back to sisal but I don't know if I can afford it buying only the small amount I need.


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## nhbaler282 (Oct 5, 2009)

THis might sound stupid but make sure he put the twine knives on correctly and not backwards,it just kind of a old man thing,dont ask how I know


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## slowzuki (Mar 8, 2011)

I take it instead of feeding your baler with a pitchfork you fed a pitchfork to your baler?



Troy Farmer said:


> One of the worst things you can do with that baler is feed it with a pitchfork. Been there, done that, won't do it again. A lot of good advice on this thread. I bet your bill hooks need a good polish.


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## CaseIH (Feb 6, 2016)

Well the mechanic and I looked at it this morning. We ended up tightening the slip clutch a little, that stopped the burning smell strait away. Then we flipped the knotters up and polished the "duck bills" up good, there was a fair amount of rust build up and a little pitting. We also adjusted the "sweep arm" Forgive me but I think thats what it is called. Fired it up and the ole girl ran like a champ!!!! Seem to be good to go now, its a far cry from the New Holland Super 68 I came from, I can tell you that for sure!

Thanks to everyone for all the comments and help! It is greatly appreciated!


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## Josh in WNY (Sep 7, 2010)

CaseIH said:


> Well the mechanic and I looked at it this morning. We ended up tightening the slip clutch a little, that stopped the burning smell strait away. Then we flipped the knotters up and polished the "duck bills" up good, there was a fair amount of rust build up and a little pitting. We also adjusted the "sweep arm" Forgive me but I think thats what it is called. Fired it up and the ole girl ran like a champ!!!! Seem to be good to go now, its a far cry from the New Holland Super 68 I came from, I can tell you that for sure!
> 
> Thanks to everyone for all the comments and help! It is greatly appreciated!


Glad to hear that you got it figured out. It's amazing how a couple little things will make a baler a complete headache.


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## Wethay (Jul 17, 2015)

Happy to hear it's going and you're not disappointed. Sounds like you took the opportunity to learn so next time you will be comfortable looking into the problem. Maybe that, or like me, the arrival of the bill will threaten you into doing it your self.


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## CaseIH (Feb 6, 2016)

Well... I guess I spoke to darn soon... Baled some today, re baling round bales for some local customers and this dog gone thing is giving me issues again! I am missing about every 8th or 9th bale... Just at a loss with it. There doesn't appear to be anything hanging up on the knotters now but I can't figure out what the heck is wrong. Was by myself so I couldn't really watch it while it was doing its thing but I really don't no where to go now. I realize re baling round bales isn't really ideal but I still don't think that would cause this issue. What is was baling, it was really doing a good job, just makes me mad when I'm missing bales. There has got to be something out of whack, can't think thats just the way its going to be...


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## glasswrongsize (Sep 15, 2015)

Is it always missing same side? both sides at the same time? not making knot? or still wrapping duckbill? I can send pictures of knotter problem troubleshooting from my manuals on the 14t JD or the 269 NH if that will help you.

It is time very well spent to inspect the twine ends very carefully and realize what is occurring when knot is missed. My JD would double tie (incorrect term, I'm sure) when too much chaff got built up around the trip mechanism; it wouldn't reset quick enough and it would tie twice...what a mess. I've dulled many o' pocketknife cleaning off the ball of crap from the duckbills.

73, Mark


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## CaseIH (Feb 6, 2016)

It's missing the same side every time, It seems to be making the knot and then maybe slipping it. The reason I say that is after one of the missed bales I noticed the very next bale tied but upon me picking it up the knot gave way and the bale busted. I don't see anything hanging up on the duck bill now, so it seems to be clearing that point. To be honest I didn't mess with it allot tonight, after me baling 30 bales and missing 4 out of that I was pretty well discouraged and called it a night, before the cussing started... In my case its just better to walk away that late in the day and look at it again with fresh eye's tomorrow, that and I didn't really want to ruin my evening off. Sure is frustrating I no that... Now I'm back to wondering if I bought a 7K TURD...


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## glasswrongsize (Sep 15, 2015)

CaseIH said:


> It's missing the same side every time, It seems to be making the knot and then maybe slipping it. The reason I say that is after one of the missed bales I noticed the very next bale tied but upon me picking it up the knot gave way and the bale busted. I don't see anything hanging up on the duck bill now, so it seems to be clearing that point. To be honest I didn't mess with it allot tonight, after me baling 30 bales and missing 4 out of that I was pretty well discouraged and called it a night, before the cussing started... In my case its just better to walk away that late in the day and look at it again with fresh eye's tomorrow, that and I didn't really want to ruin my evening off. Sure is frustrating I no that... Now I'm back to wondering if I bought a 7K TURD...


Not a 7K waste, too far from its heart to kill it.

Hope this translates to your baler and helps you. If not, it didn't cost too much 

































73, Mark


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## CaseIH (Feb 6, 2016)

GlassWrongsize,

Thanks Buddy, I have to work today and tomorrow at "Paycheck" but I plan on pulling it back out over the weekend (Weather permitting) and seeing what I can figure out.


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## bglz42 (Oct 5, 2009)

My 328 has been very reliable. As long as it is fed a good row, it bales a good bale.

Check for chaff buildup around the knotters. I keep a leaf blower in the field with me, and blow the knotters out after I see buildup occurring.

I wish I would have only paid 7k for mine!!


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## mike10 (May 29, 2011)

Switch the twine balls to the knotters and see if the problem changes sides. From your description rotten twine is a possibility.


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## CaseIH (Feb 6, 2016)

Mike 10,

The twine is new, but I was wondering that too... Also thought about switching the twine to 7200... It will be the weekend now before I can tinker with it again. Thanks though!


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## glasswrongsize (Sep 15, 2015)

I don't think you said, but can I assume it is left side? ...that wasn't a 50/50 guess btw.
73, Mark


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## CaseIH (Feb 6, 2016)

glasswrongsize.

Its the left side if your standing at the back of the baler looking forwards toward the tractor.


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## Wethay (Jul 17, 2015)

Are the bales the same length on each side? If you cut the strings of a bale and compare them for length it will show if one side of the bale chamber and therefore the bale is getting more hay. I had a baler that was always had a bit longer twine on one side, or if I readjusted way longer on the other. When I started pulling knots on the tight side I knew the bale tension was to tight. Rotten/ bad string is a good place to start, brand new string, held over from when and in what conditions? My source has gotten some back from me because brand new was brand new from last year, stored were ever there was room. Don't be afraid of loosing the twine disk just a bit to see if it's to tight and damaging the twine. I have had less problems with 7200.


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## glasswrongsize (Sep 15, 2015)

I assumed so; that is the side that starves when fed with a pitchfork and that side of the bale is probably the loosest...even if it does tie, that string is probably looser than the other".

I'm definitely not trying to talk you out of keeping trying to bale with whatever you can now so that you can work out bugs by hay season. Trust me...I understand and have done just that.

You might try to stop the pto just after it finished its tying stroke and check the knot at that time. The knot not string will be tight at that time. Make sure it was cleaned off of the bill hook. Make sure that it did tie.

When the windrow is light...or no hay feeding in, the plunger "bangs" the end of the bale numerous times before it ever moves the bale toward the tension in the chamber. Until there is sufficient hay in front of the newly bale, that bale compresses and decompresses and works the knot looser (had more of a problem with that in the IH baler than my JD, but that's my theory. (actually, the IH was more than a theory- I could make it miss a knot at-will).

Poor boys have poor ways. If I was to continue to try to feed as you are now, I would have a separate pile of hay close to the baler and feed the baler from wherever you have been; when the baler ties, feed the baler from the pile like a mad man. Better yet, have a big enough pile to feed 2 bales worth pretty quick and see how the knotter does....or just let the baler bang away at the bale after it's tied and see it it will untie.

I know that I'm throwing wild pitches here, but just working off of the top of my head on something that I can't see. Never was much good at book learning', more of "I gotta see it" kinda feller.
73, Mark

ps, how tight are that bales that do tie?


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## CaseIH (Feb 6, 2016)

glasswrongsize,

No I appreciate the input, I am rolling the round bale out and then going along and fluffing it a little. Doing this so I can try to make a more normal type windrow and try in have a normal feed, then I just drive along and feed it in. The first day of fowl ups we where spoon feeding it with a fork, not now. That's pretty much exactly what I'm doing as far as working out the bugs, that and if I can make a few bucks in the process what the heck, might as well. Just trying to avoid having 40 acres of hay and no baler in a couple months... Been there and that sucks! I have some help lined up so weather permitting I'm going to take another run at it over the weekend. Part of me is hoping this issue is just because the baler sat outside for a while and has built up some rust/corrosion around the knotters, or maybe even a twine issue.... I know that is probably wishful thinking but hey I guy can dream! This thing is baling bricks on the bales its tying, that's why its so darn frustrating, why the heck would it miss a bale every 8 or 9 bales.... Just blows my mind!


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## clowers (Feb 11, 2011)

Try plastic twine. Its worth a shot. My 328 works great with plastic.


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## Troy Farmer (Jul 31, 2011)

I feel for you. I've been there before myself with my old 14 T. The best advice I can give is to have someone operate for you and you walk along with the baler. Watch every tie cycle. And when it misses stop immediately and examine the evidence. The operators manual has a great trouble shooting section with photos. It will be tough to diagnose the problem from the tractor seat. Good luck. My 328 has been a great baler and I'm sure yours will be too.


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## Vol (Jul 5, 2009)

CaseIH....my 24T JD that I used to own worked better with plastic twine than anything....just like clowers mentioned.....seems to keep the knotting system slicker.

Regards, Mike


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## bglz42 (Oct 5, 2009)

I always use plastic twine.


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## CaseIH (Feb 6, 2016)

Okay guys, when you say plastic twine your talking, plastic 7200 right??? Just want to make sure I get the right stuff.

Thanks again.


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## Gearclash (Nov 25, 2010)

I would also recommend trying 7200 plastic twine. How long are the tails on the knots that do hold? If there is barely any tail then the twine holder needs to be loosened a little. Too short of tails can allow knots to unravel.


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## thendrix (May 14, 2015)

How old is the hay you're rebaling?


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## Bgriffin856 (Nov 13, 2013)

Had the same problem with our 337 we bought used two years ago, using 9000 sisal twine. I also think that was the problem with our old nh 275 the we had before it as it did the same thing. Switched to orangeline 7200 and it never skips a beat. Can even tighten the bale chamber all the way down

The last sisal we ran would go from very thick almost like 7200 down to as thin or thinner than 16000. Doesn't take rotten twine to malfunction


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## Vol (Jul 5, 2009)

CaseIH said:


> Okay guys, when you say plastic twine your talking, plastic 7200 right??? Just want to make sure I get the right stuff.
> 
> Thanks again.


I used to use Bridon and then it got hard to get for awhile....when that happened, I switched over to Tytan....and I was very impressed with it....and it switches over well between bale splices....I would probably go with the 170 pound knot strength.....in the 9600' spool. I use 210 strength but that is really a bit of overkill and I use grapples so I just go with the strongest....but 170 knot strength is good for almost every situation.....if I was using a thrower, I would go with 210.

Regards, Mike

http://tytanintl.info/?product=square-baler-twine


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## pettibone (Jul 18, 2015)

I have a 327 baler should be the same the only problem ever had was the twine tucker fingers would sort of seize up from sitting over the winter. Get them loose and oiled up and would never skip a bale. Thought I'd mention that seeing nobody else did.


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## glasswrongsize (Sep 15, 2015)

I forgot to mention, it is amazing how various things will effect the knotting. Twine tension was way off on my 14t (tension from twine box). I recommend getting the book and a fishin' scale and put everything in spec. It may have been baling fine for previous owner with different twine. Using a scale is far faster than trial/error.

That was probably the best thing I did in getting the final bugs out
73, Mark


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## Josh in WNY (Sep 7, 2010)

glasswrongsize said:


> I forgot to mention, it is amazing how various things will effect the knotting. Twine tension was way off on my 14t (tension from twine box). I recommend getting the book and a fishin' scale and put everything in spec. It may have been baling fine for previous owner with different twine. Using a scale is far faster than trial/error.
> 
> That was probably the best thing I did in getting the final bugs out
> 73, Mark


I second that. The other thing this will do is give you an even better understanding of how the knotters work. This makes it a lot easier and faster to troubleshoot them on the fly when there is hay on the ground.


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