# Tractor oil and Fluids - OEM or After-Market?



## 32-0-0 (May 30, 2017)

I have John Deere equipment that I've always used John Deere branded oil and fluids...but those products are pricey compared to the non-oem brands. So what are the opinions of using non-oem products? What non-oem brands are you'll using? Or is it better to just play it safe and stick with the oem products. I don't have any equipment under warranty, so switching wouldn't be a concern in that regards.


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## Vol (Jul 5, 2009)

I would not put anything but Hy-gard in a Deere as far as hydraulic fluid goes.

Regards, Mike


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## mike10 (May 29, 2011)

This is a rhetorical question, How much extra would it cost to go oem? How much will it cost to repair a power shift transmission, wet disc brakes, and the pto clutch pack? Go oem. After market hydraulic oil does not meet the requirements of modern tractors.


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## 8350HiTech (Jul 26, 2013)

How old are your tractors and do you actually change fluids on appropriate intervals? Those two things make a difference in what you can get away with running.


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## 32-0-0 (May 30, 2017)

8350HiTech said:


> How old are your tractors and do you actually change fluids on appropriate intervals? Those two things make a difference in what you can get away with running.


Tractor is a 2002 model, Baler is a 2006...change the fluids and oil religiously as either recommended by the manual or the product


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## Gearclash (Nov 25, 2010)

That new I would stick with oem, unless you care to try something like the Cenex program that will warrant your drive train if you use their fluids and sampling. Oem fluids should be the best but even they can be imperfect. I learned this summer that there is a bulletin out with CNH regarding clutch and brake chatter in 51/52/MX Maxxum and 71/72/89/MX Magnum tractors that are using Hytran Ultra or Ultraction. There is an additive available to correct the problem.


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## Grateful11 (Apr 5, 2009)

We only use OEM in the transmission whether gear drive or hydro. As far as the engine we think Rotella T is hard to beat. Deere says 500 hours with their engine oil and 300 with other brands. Personally I think 500 hours a bit a push for any engine oil. That's sorta like driving 500 hours at 50 mph equals 25,000 miles. Not too many people would want to put 25,000 miles on their vehicles engine oil. My wife and son still buys Case IH No. 1 engine oil for the Maxxum 5140 and the IH 686 though. They're running Rotella T, now T4 because it gained a higher rating, in the Kubota's and the Deere.


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## Vol (Jul 5, 2009)

It would be very difficult to find a better oil than John Deere Plus-50 II in my eyes. I have run it 500 hours and was amazed at how clean it was when I drained it. I had been checking it right along and it always appeared very clear to translucent....it really seems to hold up. In my older Green I only run it for 200 hours because of the age of the machines and the fact that they were always changed on a much shorter interval.

Regards, Mike


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## hillside hay (Feb 4, 2013)

Engine oil I use Rotella T. Hygard hydraulic fluid. 30 and 40 series Deeres. Anything newer I would stick with oem recommendation.


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## Farmerbrown2 (Sep 25, 2018)

I was running yellow bucket oil in my JD 4020ps,4020 sc 2510ps and 400 backhoe. Anyways the 4020 power shift was not keeping transmission pressure so my mechanic recommended putting JD oil in transmission. That was three years ago no problems since I thought that was an easy fix . Plus I don't have $9,000.00 to replace a trans .


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## TJ Hendren (May 12, 2017)

My NH dealer told me the same thing Mike10 said when I inquired about yellow bucket oil, "Do you want to save a few dollars on oil or spend 15-20k to rebuild the transmission?" I stayed with the 134.


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## 2ndWindfarm (Nov 11, 2014)

3 Deere tractors and 1 Ford. Couple of Deere square balers and a Deere round baler. Everything is OEM excepting engine oil and 75W-90W gear lube.

Rotella synthetic and Mobil 1 synthetic gear lube. I have used JD Plus 50 II 0-40W engine oil as my winter oil but the cost is crazy! $2,000 for a 55 gallon drum!

Have been switching over to 5-40W.


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## IH 1586 (Oct 16, 2014)

I had a JD Tech buy a lawn mower from me and we were talking about oils and he informed me that JD is Vavoline oils. So while researching I have found that Vavoline is more expensive than Deere and that Napa oil is Vavoline. Napa diesel is much cheaper. When time to buy a new drum will be doing more research and make sure all the specs are spot on and may use Napa.


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## mike10 (May 29, 2011)

The problem with comparing specs that are on a can between oil brands, is the specs sited are incomplete. I have never seen on a bucket of oil the shear ability of the oil, or the moisture absorption ability of the oil to just mention two critical components of hydraulic oil that will keep your modern transmissions operating..


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## mlappin (Jun 25, 2009)

mike10 said:


> The problem with comparing specs that are on a can between oil brands, is the specs sited are incomplete. I have never seen on a bucket of oil the shear ability of the oil, or the moisture absorption ability of the oil to just mention two critical components of hydraulic oil that will keep your modern transmissions operating..


Need to see which specs they match. Off the top of my head the hydraulic oil we use meets Deere, Agco, Cat, etc. Now after finding those out you need to see if it's the same spec as what your tractor calls for.


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## Farmerbrown2 (Sep 25, 2018)

I know John Deere oil is pricey but I am not willing to take a risk on yellow bucket oil on my equipment. I'm sure some of the price is markup but I know JD oil is specked for my tractors even if there 50 years old just not going to take the chance on $300 to $500 a year in savings.. Somehow putting correct oil in my old 4020 solved a problem and yes I still have some of the old empty yellow buckets around that say the oil meets spec.


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## mike10 (May 29, 2011)

If there is oil in the can they can say it meets JD, NH Agco etc specs. The cans do not say they meet all specs. The formulation of the oil is proprietary information and not likely to be shared between the major's oil suppliers and after market suppliers.

Oil may be oil, but the ingredients added to the oil is what differentiates oil from oil.


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## Vol (Jul 5, 2009)

John Deere Hy-gard has Zinc in it that the wet brake system requires.....another oil might say that they meet JD specs, but if they don't have Zinc you will be screwed eventually.

Regards, Mike


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## 32-0-0 (May 30, 2017)

Thanks forneverybodies input...points well made and received. I'll just play it safe and stick with the oem. I just wonder what the markup is with the JD oil and fluid? I believe in making a profit, but I don't believe in being greedy.


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## Grateful11 (Apr 5, 2009)

32-0-0 said:


> Thanks forneverybodies input...points well made and received. I'll just play it safe and stick with the oem. I just wonder what the markup is with the JD oil and fluid? I believe in making a profit, but I don't believe in being greedy.


I just looked at greenpartstore.com and I can tell you Hy-Gard, 5 gallons is like $68., is a lot cheaper than Kubota Super UDT2 at about $95.


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## endrow (Dec 15, 2011)

Grateful11 said:


> I just looked at greenpartstore.com and I can tell you Hy-Gard, 5 gallons is like $68., is a lot cheaper than Kubota Super UDT2 at about $95.


 everything gets IH oil which we buy bulk except for the JD7510 she gets her own buckets,oem . Just paid 50 bucks for a bucket of John Deere Hy- gard


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## hillside hay (Feb 4, 2013)

That's about what I pay for hygard. I'm not going to compromise my hydraulic system for 5 bucks a pail.


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## mike10 (May 29, 2011)

Oil is the least expensive additive in the bucket of hyd oil. The price varies between different oils because of the additives that are in the bucket with the oil. NH has at least three hyd oils and the price varies. Each has a specific purpose. The old reliable 134 works in the majority of tractor and equipment operations, but the master tran is meant for the high horse power tractors with power shifts and cvt transmissions. The master tran is more expensive because it is formulated for the higher forces acting on the tractors components. You can use the master tran in the older tractors but it is more cost effective for the customer to buy the reliable 134 oil


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## Widairy (Jan 1, 2016)

Here's a question, what about different brands oem oils mixing due to switching tractor on implements? I have a case 7110 and everything else on the yard has green paint. I run hy-gaurd in the Deere tractors and the recommended oil in the case. I use the two big tractor just about interchangeable on the implements. Will the mixing of the different oils cause me problems? Would I be better off choosing one oil and running it in the other color tractor or tractors instead of both oils getting contaminated or mixing?


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## Vol (Jul 5, 2009)

One oil for me.

Regards, Mike


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## Farmerbrown2 (Sep 25, 2018)

Just trade the case Ha ha.


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## Widairy (Jan 1, 2016)

I like my green tractors but that old magnum has been surprisingly impressive to say the least. Best starting tractor I have. She's solid all the way around. I wanted a 4455 Deere but to get the powershift it was 20k more than similar condition 71 series magnums. I bought it for the pull type chopper and has worked nicely on the 313 NH discbine as well. Unless someone wants to trade for a clean 4455 powershift the case stays.


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## glasswrongsize (Sep 15, 2015)

Widairy said:


> Here's a question, what about different brands oem oils mixing due to switching tractor on implements? I have a case 7110 and everything else on the yard has green paint. I run hy-gaurd in the Deere tractors and the recommended oil in the case. I use the two big tractor just about interchangeable on the implements. Will the mixing of the different oils cause me problems? Would I be better off choosing one oil and running it in the other color tractor or tractors instead of both oils getting contaminated or mixing?


I sure wish I knew the answer to that one. I have a couple of Kubotas and run Super UDT2 in them so that swapping spit between those two is a non-issue. This spring, I changed the fluid in my Farmall 460 to Super UDT2 for the same reason. I wanted all the tractors to have the same fluid.

I put 50-75 hours on it since the change and had no problems...TA works as good or better, hydraulics work fine, etc. ...until this past week, I was chisel plowing with it and the axle bearing went out on the left side. The first thing that came to my mind was the UDT2 where HyTran should have been. 

There are too many variables upon which to blame the oil at this point. First, the tractor is 50+ years old and the bearing was stamped IH (probably original) and it may have just been its time? The new seal was double sealed and, if the old one was also double sealed, the trans oil should make no difference? Like I said, too many variables to know for sure. 

The one thing that I DO know for sure: if I would have put HyTran in it, I wouldn't be wondering whether it was the cause or coincidence.

Of course, if something would go wrong with on of the Kubotas, I would blame it on the HyTran contamination. There's just no winning with different brands of tractors running the same equipment.

I could have put HyTran in WAY cheaper than UDT2, but I thought I would not spare the $$ on oil and I STILL get bit with breakdowns. Sure wish I knew the answer to your question!

Mark


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## 32-0-0 (May 30, 2017)

What about grease for tractors, rakes, tedders and balers? Stay with oem or are there better greases out there?


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## endrow (Dec 15, 2011)

endrow said:


> Widairy said:
> 
> 
> > Here's a question, what about different brands oem oils mixing due to switching tractor on implements? I have a case 7110 and everything else on the yard has green paint. I run hy-gaurd in the Deere tractors and the recommended oil in the case. I use the two big tractor just about interchangeable on the implements. Will the mixing of the different oils cause me problems? Would I be better off choosing one oil and running it in the other color tractor or tractors instead of both oils getting contaminated or mixing? VERY good question and I have always wondered about


Very good Question


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## Trillium Farm (Dec 18, 2014)

32-0-0 said:


> What about grease for tractors, rakes, tedders and balers? Stay with oem or are there better greases out there?


There are better greases out there, but you must make sure that they are made for the purpose intended. Even motor oils there are better ones than oem as long as they meet the requirements. I would not gamble with hydraulic oils though Tractor manufacturers are in it for the money and they do not manufacture grease, but they spec it out to the lowest bidder and then sell at twice the price. I'm not sayng that oem fluids & grease are bad, just that to be priced at a level that farmers would accept and to insure a good profit for the manufacturer often they are not the best. To get the best, even from an outside source you're going to have to shell out


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## chevytaHOE5674 (Mar 14, 2015)

I run aftermarket oil in everything. Having said that I am NOT using cheap walmart/TSC "black bucket" oil. I use a OEM spec compatible Shell or Cenex product and have had great luck and even after long service intervals oil samples have still come back very good.

As for grease I have found that Schaeffer's has some awesome grease that can take some abuse. Can grease loader pins and not have it slopping on my windshield and can grease bearings and not have liquid grease running out at the end of the day.


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## 32-0-0 (May 30, 2017)

chevytaHOE5674 said:


> As for grease I have found that Schaeffer's has some awesome grease that can take some abuse. Can grease loader pins and not have it slopping on my windshield and can grease bearings and not have liquid grease running out at the end of the day.


I checked out the Schaefer website...looks like they have around 20 different greases. Which one have you been using ChevyTahoe?


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## chevytaHOE5674 (Mar 14, 2015)

I use #238 and #260 depending on application. Have a local supplier that is reasonably priced, He gave me a tube of #260 to try in my loader and after it stayed in the bushing after heavy use I was hooked.


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## Bigfoot62 (Jul 26, 2017)

As already mentioned, tractor companies *do not* manufacture oil, greases or other lubricants.

Oil refineries produce those products.

That said, I always use a high quality lube. If I'm having the equipment serviced at the dealer, then it gets OEM lube. If I'm doing it at my place, I put good stuff in, but it's not OEM brand. I buy in bulk quantities from a local jobber because I have 4 diesel farm tractors, 2 diesel pickups and a 18-wheeler.

Transmission/hydraulic: I get 5 gallon buckets of Mobilfluid 424. (also use Mobile premium gear oils)

Engine oil: 55 gallon drum of either, Exxon XD3, Chevron Delo, Mobil Delvac, or lately, I've started using the CAM2 synthetic blend. (just a personal preference, but I don't like Rotella)

Tube grease: Mystic Red, Mobil CM-S, etc. A grease that is EP (extreme pressure) rated, and water resistant.


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## carcajou (Jan 28, 2011)

One thing to consider when running multiple implements on tractors is cross contamination of hyd oils. Pick a hyd oil that suits all of your tractors and stick with it. If you can't do that then be careful which tractor pulls which implement. Say you have a older Waterloo deere that the brakes are going on, you don't want that oil ending up in a newer tractors sump.

Another point, putting 500 hrs on any tractor engine oil is just false economics unless they are over a short period. Oils cheap compared to overhauls and it does not take much condensation in the oil to break it down. I change the oil first thing in the spring on everything regardless of the hrs and 200 hrs max on diesel oil changes.


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## Gearclash (Nov 25, 2010)

> As already mentioned, tractor companies *do not* manufacture oil, greases or other lubricants.
> 
> Oil refineries produce those products.


The tractor co may not be be making the product but they sure are writing the specs for the base oil and the additives in it.


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