# John Deere 4010 in frame or out rebuild recommendations or?



## Ranger518 (Aug 6, 2016)

I have a 196x John Deere 4010 propane LPG tractor the one in my avatar pic (early version of the 4020). Tractor is in good shape and runs pretty good but it is starting to show its age and has had low compression on #1 cylinder for a few years. This year it has started to burn about a quart of oil a hour so I know it is getting worse. The question is what do I do keep running it until it quits as it still starts and runs good or do a inframe rebuild or just pull the whole thing apart and do a full out of frame rebuild.


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## stack em up (Mar 7, 2013)

I prefer out of frame, that's just me. Easier to do cam bushings and pressure wash oil galleys.

With low compression on 1 cylinder, I'd bet you dropped a valve. LPs are notorious for that. They have hardened seats but valves aren't all necessarily hardened. Put a drop of oil in each cylinder and check compression again, if compression comes up, it's rings. If not, it's valves.


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## Tx Jim (Jun 30, 2014)

I agree an out of frame OH is better due to being easier the replace cam brgs plus R&R of frt/rear crankshaft seals BUT back when I served as a JD dealer service manager I supervised many in-frame OH's that were very successful & engines operated for many more hours.


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## Ranger518 (Aug 6, 2016)

stack em up said:


> I prefer out of frame, that's just me. Easier to do cam bushings and pressure wash oil galleys.
> 
> With low compression on 1 cylinder, I'd bet you dropped a valve. LPs are notorious for that. They have hardened seats but valves aren't all necessarily hardened. Put a drop of oil in each cylinder and check compression again, if compression comes up, it's rings. If not, it's valves.


My exhaust manifold is leaking a little and has some broke bolts in it had plans on rebuilding the head when I did the rebuild but maybe I will just remove the head and see what I am dealing with first before I decide if I should rebuild it or not see what valves and piston cylinders look like.


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## mlappin (Jun 25, 2009)

I hate in frames, let it sit a month and still drip, right in your eye, drip, right in your ear, etc.


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## TJ Hendren (May 12, 2017)

We did our 4010 diesel in frame two years ago. Turned it into a new beast. Do what you think is best---- it's your time and dime, however I'm totally happy with the results.


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## SCtrailrider (May 1, 2016)

I'm in the same boat with my 2030, I've never split a tractor before, a inframe sounds easiest, I need another clutch also, had it replaced a few years ago and it never had the bite it should have...


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## Ranger518 (Aug 6, 2016)

SCtrailrider said:


> I'm in the same boat with my 2030, I've never split a tractor before, a inframe sounds easiest, I need another clutch also, had it replaced a few years ago and it never had the bite it should have...


I have also never split a tractor but I do have a friend that has rebuilt a few 4020 gas tractors and he does have a stand he will let me use if I decide to do it. It a old tractor and is in good shape but I don't want to dump a lot of money into it as it only gets used around 100 hours a year and being propane it's not worth much money but it was my wife's grandpas tractor so it will never be sold so i am willing to put some money into it.


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## mlappin (Jun 25, 2009)

SCtrailrider said:


> I'm in the same boat with my 2030, I've never split a tractor before, a inframe sounds easiest, I need another clutch also, had it replaced a few years ago and it never had the bite it should have...


Ahh, most our tractors you pull the miscellaneous stuff, the power shaft, engine mount bolts and just pull the motor. Father and I have done a clutch in a 1855 Oliver in less than three hours.

I do have splitting a JD401C or our JD400 backhoe down to less than a few hours.


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## Farmineer95 (Aug 11, 2014)

How many hours are on the 4020LP?

I like out of frame OH, but takes more time too. The amount of time I'm underneath changing bearings to me is worth it if I really don't have to remove the engine. If I need to have the crank polished, well that's that. Usually the guys I'm doing the work for don't want to spend the extra money. Don't get me wrong, if it needs it it's going to get it.
Is it a powershift or synchro? Do you need to look at the clutch? Are there any leaks that need to be addressed?

Look for a Kevlar clutch.


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## Ranger518 (Aug 6, 2016)

Farmineer95 said:


> How many hours are on the 4020LP?
> 
> I like out of frame OH, but takes more time too. The amount of time I'm underneath changing bearings to me is worth it if I really don't have to remove the engine. If I need to have the crank polished, well that's that. Usually the guys I'm doing the work for don't want to spend the extra money. Don't get me wrong, if it needs it it's going to get it.
> Is it a powershift or synchro? Do you need to look at the clutch? Are there any leaks that need to be addressed?
> ...


No idea on how many hours but I am guessing over 10k becuse the hour meter has not worked in at least 10 years and it showed around 8k before I changed it out. The clutch is good and tight I pretty sure it was replaced about 8 years ago and it has a few very small oil leaks mostly around the valve covers but the hydraulic pump has started to leak a little and has started making a slight knocking noise at a verry low idle so I know it is also time for a rebuild or replace of the pump. It's a synchro trans over all it's a good tractor for its age it does everything I have asked it to but I can tell she is getting a little tired. I have been told that the engine has never been touched as far as they could remember but I'm not 100% sure.


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## Tx Jim (Jun 30, 2014)

Knocking noise by hyd pump could be worn pump drive coupler or coupler bushings.


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## Ranger518 (Aug 6, 2016)

Tx Jim said:


> Knocking noise by hyd pump could be worn pump drive coupler or coupler bushings.


Yea I know that is a common issue with he pump but i checked and they were good but went ahead and replaced the pins bushings and coupler and it made no difference.


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## Ranger518 (Aug 6, 2016)

Tx Jim said:


> Knocking noise by hyd pump could be worn pump drive coupler or coupler bushings.


Yea I know that is a common issue with he pump but i checked and they were good but went ahead and replaced the pins bushings and coupler and it made no difference.


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## Gearclash (Nov 25, 2010)

I haven't done many overhauls but I am in the out of frame camp. Ain't that big of deal to split a tractor.


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## Tx Jim (Jun 30, 2014)

Gearclash said:


> I haven't done many overhauls but I am in the out of frame camp. Ain't that big of deal to split a tractor.


Out of frame overhaul requires a lot more labor than just splitting a tractor!!!


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## Gearclash (Nov 25, 2010)

Tx Jim said:


> Out of frame overhaul requires a lot more labor than just splitting a tractor!!!


What I meant was that in the grand scheme of an engine overhaul, the additional work of splitting isn't that huge a deal. It seems a lot of people balk at the idea of splitting, but it isn't so hard to do with the right equipment.


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## Tx Jim (Jun 30, 2014)

Gearclash said:


> What I meant was that in the grand scheme of an engine overhaul, the additional work of splitting isn't that huge a deal. It seems a lot of people balk at the idea of splitting, but it isn't so hard to do with the right equipment.


I agree spitting tractor isn't difficult as I've assisted/supervised splitting many of them. But stabilizing frt axle,frt support,hyd pump & fuel tank while removing/installing engine is a different story.


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