# DIY net wrap applicator



## stoneridge (Jul 13, 2016)

looking for an aftermarket or DIY net wrap applicator, any ideas out there besides new baler. I have 2 good 567's that have lots of life left in them but can't afford to use sisal anymore. Plastic twine is a not an option but netwrap looks like I could manage it in bale grazing system.

heard about a BInder Wrap applicator but can't find any info on it. Anyone have contact info or design drawings?


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## Cozyacres (Jul 16, 2009)

Found this on the binder wrap :

https://www.farmshow.com/a_article.php?aid=14955


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## somedevildawg (Jun 20, 2011)

Neat, if it works......


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## 8350HiTech (Jul 26, 2013)

Out of curiosity, what's the issue with the plastic twine vs wrap?


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## somedevildawg (Jun 20, 2011)

8350HiTech said:


> Out of curiosity, what's the issue with the plastic twine vs wrap?


From what I read, cost and ease of removal.......


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## endrow (Dec 15, 2011)

Sell your balers and buy another one with net wrap


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## Tx Jim (Jun 30, 2014)

The Binder wrap from Denmark is a little misleading as the article states netwrap application cost is $2-$3 per bale when in reality my netwrap on a 467 using "edge to edge(13,200' roll)" cost per bale is $0.91. Why not try to locate a used netwrap applicator to install on the 567? I know where a net applicator is for sale on a 467 for $1500.


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## luke strawwalker (Jul 31, 2014)

I don't have any trouble with removing plastic twine. Grandpa always ran sisal for that very reason, but I got sick and tired of moving bales from storage to feeding (via a trailer and trip to the other farm, usually) and having them falling apart due to the sisal twine getting rotten on bottom of the bales and popping. We switched to plastic decades ago and never looked back. For awhile I used the "biodegradable" plastic twine, but that stuff was almost as bad as sisal, only it'd pop on top where it'd been in the sun in storage all summer, versus on bottom where the sisal stayed damp. Plus, any twine NOT exposed to the solar UV light would NEVER deteriorate... just like regular plastic. SO, we switched back to straight plastic twine and make sure we get it all off when we unroll bales to feed.

I put the bale where I want to feed, usually on top of one of the terraces on the farm at the top of a hill in a good, steep spot. I point the bale so it will "unroll" opposite the way it was spiraled up when it was baled. I hop off the tractor and cut all the twine on one side, about 3/4 of the way to the bottom of the bale. I go around the other side of the bale and then "pick" all the twines off the bale into one hand and gather them all together, and once I have them all, I straighten them out and whip them around a little to shake out any hay clinging to them. Then I grab the bundle with one hand and slide my other hand down the length of them about as far as I can, pull the loose ends back into a loop, and pass them to the other hand holding the bundled strings coming off the side of the bale to the underside of the bale, forming a loop. Then I take this loop, pass it over and through itself, to tie the whole bundle into a 'square knot', with a big loop of twine coming off the tail side of it. Then I just pull the whole mess of twine out from under the bale. If it's tough, I wrap the bundle of twine around my butt and walk backwards-- maybe a little side-to-side as I go, so it pulls the twine on one side loose and then the other side in a "see-saw" fashion til it all slides out. Once I have the twine out from under the bale, I look for any stray strings that didn't get pulled, loose ends, or whatever, and if needed, wrap them a time or two around the bundle/knot and pull them out. Once I've got it all, I whip the loose twine around once or twice to shake off any loose hay, then I loop them up by pulling the bundled loose ends from the knot to the far ends, two-arms-lengths at a time, and coiling them up (like you'd coil up an extension cord or garden hose) and once I have them all in a coiled-up loop, I grab both sides of the loop to make a long, flat "ribbon" of twines, then tie a square knot in it to hold them all together. Then I toss it onto the deck of the tractor to toss on the burn pile when I'm done feeding.

Works great and no plastic twine all over the place.

Then I give the bale a flip or two down the hill with the loader and bump it with the front tractor tire til it's unrolled down to the core, and hop off the tractor and unroll the core and kick it apart.

Works for me.

Later! OL J R


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## glasswrongsize (Sep 15, 2015)

Hate plastic, but use it on big bales. I do it pretty much same as Luke, but better....I use a half-hitch instead of a square knot  I feed with a bale spear on loader, so lifting it and cutting/holding the strings is no problem and they pull off easily.

73, Mark


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## luke strawwalker (Jul 31, 2014)

I'll also add that from what I've heard, keeping netwrap out of the hay and off the ground is at least as hard as twine if not worse.

If you have snow and freezing weather, net can be an absolute nightmare to get off of bales as well.

Later! OL J R


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## carcajou (Jan 28, 2011)

luke strawwalker said:


> I'll also add that from what I've heard, keeping netwrap out of the hay and off the ground is at least as hard as twine if not worse.
> 
> If you have snow and freezing weather, net can be an absolute nightmare to get off of bales as well.
> 
> Later! OL J R


Luke gotta disagree with you there. Net is a lot easier to take off in winter conditions if the bales are stored properly. Even if they are not it is still faster to remove net than twine in the winter.


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## mlappin (Jun 25, 2009)

carcajou said:


> Luke gotta disagree with you there. Net is a lot easier to take off in winter conditions if the bales are stored properly. Even if they are not it is still faster to remover net than twine in the winter.


DITTO.

I'd much rather remove net wrap from bales stored outside than twine in the dead of winter. Twine sinks into the bale and freezes solid, if the net is froze raise the bale to the full height of the loader, roll the bucket forward and drop the bale several times, the net will come off.


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## swmnhay (Jun 13, 2008)

mlappin said:


> DITTO.
> I'd much rather remove net wrap from bales stored outside than twine in the dead of winter. Twine sinks into the bale and freezes solid, if the net is froze raise the bale to the full height of the loader, roll the bucket forward and drop the bale several times, the net will come off.


if the ice is bad I will do that and then tip them up facing the sun and it melts off in a few days.Every time I feed I get some setup to melt off for the next feeding.


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## gearhartfarms82 (May 10, 2015)

Net is WAY BETTER all the way around for storage, removal in the winter, less losage in or out side, hauling, ect. 
Sell the balers and buy one with net. I got a br780 for sale with net. Lol. Good luck!


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## Tx Jim (Jun 30, 2014)

carcajou said:


> Luke gotta disagree with you there. Net is a lot easier to take off in winter conditions if the bales are stored properly. Even if they are not it is still faster to remove net than twine in the winter.


DITTO net is a lot easier to remove than twine. What I really hate about twine when baling large windrows is the leading ends of twine get buried in the hay bale and when one cuts twine this hidden twine can get wrapped around tractor axles/spindles


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## socohay (Jul 21, 2015)

Or in the most productive cows gut. . .


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## r82230 (Mar 1, 2016)

Having used both twine and net, feed my own hay to cows, Net is my preference.

Disclaimer, as long as some procedures are followed, such as:

Outside stored bales are orientated North / South if using during freezing.

Bales are not moved after ground has frozen and/or snow is on ground

No need to ask who the fool was that had to learn by experience   

Larry


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## Bruce Hopf (Jun 29, 2016)

Tx Jim said:


> The Binder wrap from Denmark is a little misleading as the article states netwrap application cost is $2-$3 per bale when in reality my netwrap on a 467 using "edge to edge(13,200' roll)" cost per bale is $0.91. Why not try to locate a used netwrap applicator to install on the 567? I know where a net applicator is for sale on a 467 for $1500.


How many wraps, do you apply, to the bales?


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## Redbaler (Jun 10, 2011)

If you're running 2 balers with twine you will only need one for net. Always tricked me off how long it took to put enough twine on a bale. Wrapping and dumping only takes 30 seconds or so vs 2 minutes. Theoretically net balers with the same bale count as twine balers should have half or only 2/3rds of the hours.


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## Tx Jim (Jun 30, 2014)

Bruce Hopf said:


> How many wraps, do you apply, to the bales?


2 wraps per bale on grass hay


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## Tx Jim (Jun 30, 2014)

Redbaler said:


> If you're running 2 balers with twine you will only need one for net. Always tricked me off how long it took to put enough twine on a bale. Wrapping and dumping only takes 30 seconds or so vs 2 minutes. Theoretically net balers with the same bale count as twine balers should have half or only 2/3rds of the hours.


I disagree with your statement because all things equal I can only bale about 25% more bales in the same amount of time with net vs twine. This is my determination baling at 5-6 MPH.


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## Gearclash (Nov 25, 2010)

In theory it should take 9 seconds to put 2.5 wraps of net on with my balers. Putting twine on 4 inches apart with 4 turns on the edges would take less than 40 seconds. Door cycle times would remain the same. So about 30 seconds extra. A big slow down, but not like half. We can do a solid 40 bales an hour. If I look at a per bale rate, we can push to a bale per minute in some conditions, twine would mean an 80 second total bale cycle rather than 60.


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## Bruce Hopf (Jun 29, 2016)

Tx Jim said:


> 2 wraps per bale on grass hay


How about on Rotary Straw, would you apply the same amount of wrap, or more?


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## carcajou (Jan 28, 2011)

I figure two balers running net get as much done as 3 running twine.


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## carcajou (Jan 28, 2011)

Bruce Hopf said:


> How about on Rotary Straw, would you apply the same amount of wrap, or more?


I run 3.1 wraps on straw. and 2.1 wraps on hay. I have found that the extra .1 makes a big difference.


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## swmnhay (Jun 13, 2008)

Rotary straw is one of the hardest things to hold with net.It compresses and can expand causeing net to break.Use 3-4 wraps depending how tight you make the bales.I recomend 4 to be safe.Esp if a newer NH baler.


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## Bruce Hopf (Jun 29, 2016)

swmnhay said:


> Rotary straw is one of the hardest things to hold with net.It compresses and can expand causeing net to break.Use 3-4 wraps depending how tight you make the bales.I recomend 4 to be safe.Esp if a newer NH baler.


So, 3, 4 wraps with a JD 466, I should set, to go then?


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## swmnhay (Jun 13, 2008)

Bruce Hopf said:


> So, 3, 4 wraps with a JD 466, I should set, to go then?


3.2 should be Ok but you may need more if they are handled alot.Or the help is rough handleing them draging on the ground,etc.

And if your selllling them a little extra on them makes them look better.Hold shape better.Shed water better.


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## Bruce Hopf (Jun 29, 2016)

I'm going to be selling some straw, if everything goes OK with my Combine (an old 660 Case, conventional), and if I can combine it myself, it would it be OK, to wrap it 2.5 wrapes, or should I go with 3, or 4 wraps?
When I had planted my Wheat, in the spring, I seeded it down, with Hay, as well, so I'm not going to be wanting the straw bales, to be sitting all that long, once it's baled, on the field. If I have troubles getting it combined myself, I'll have to hire it done, and probably, a Rotary, will be coming in, to do the job.


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## swmnhay (Jun 13, 2008)

Well if your selling it you don't want them to have a broken bale and then they may not buy from you again.3 wraps is a recommendation but you have to decide if you want to save 1/2 a wrap to save less then .25 per bale or if you want good looking bales.


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## Bruce Hopf (Jun 29, 2016)

I'd rather have good looking bales. I'm hoping to sell the bales, right off the field, but if I can't, I'm going to have to move them, and I'm afraid, if I move them too much, the could fly apart, before they get loaded.


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## Gearclash (Nov 25, 2010)

More net tends to make bales look better . . . When I did wheat straw I put on 3.25 turns of wrap. May be that was excessive some years, but the customer wanted it. Who wants broken bales?


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## gearhartfarms82 (May 10, 2015)

Well i mise well jump in. One thing i have learned is this, NEVER short your net wrap. We bale 3-4k bales a yr. long and short it yes we could save some money and not put as many on BUT you will have busted bales some were in the mix. We run 4 wraps on all except straw which we put 5 on. Cost of net really isnt that much compared to the cost of busted bales. Were spending about $1.13 a bale at 4 wraps


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## Bruce Hopf (Jun 29, 2016)

gearhartfarms82 said:


> Well i mise well jump in. One thing i have learned is this, NEVER short your net wrap. We bale 3-4k bales a yr. long and short it yes we could save some money and not put as many on BUT you will have busted bales some were in the mix. We run 4 wraps on all except straw which we put 5 on. Cost of net really isnt that much compared to the cost of busted bales. Were spending about $1.13 a bale at 4 wraps


What size of bale, are you making, with yiur round baler?


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## gearhartfarms82 (May 10, 2015)

4X5


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## Bruce Hopf (Jun 29, 2016)

So roughly $0.28 cents, per wrap, on a 4 X 5? How about a 4 X 6 bale? Sorry for taking over someone else's thread, as I never have done that much work, with a round baler, up till now, i have done only Small Squares, and I just bought this baler, to cut down my work load, during hay, and straw season, and do the odd custom baling job, with it, as well.


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## swmnhay (Jun 13, 2008)

Bruce Hopf said:


> So roughly $0.28 cents, per wrap, on a 4 X 5? How about a 4 X 6 bale? Sorry for taking over someone else's thread, as I never have done that much work, with a round baler, up till now, i have done only Small Squares, and I just bought this baler, to cut down my work load, during hay, and straw season, and do the odd custom baling job, with it, as well.


To figure cost per bale figure out the circumference of the bale,which is diameter x 3.14.Then x number of wraps = ft per bale.

Figure out your cost per ft of net.Cost of roll divided by ft = cost per ft.

Multiply the two and get your cost per bale.

Not all Netwrap is equal some will take 4 wraps to equal the strength of 3 wraps for another brand.


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## swmnhay (Jun 13, 2008)

swmnhay said:


> To figure cost per bale figure out the circumference of the bale,which is diameter x 3.14.Then x number of wraps = ft per bale.
> Figure out your cost per ft of net.Cost of roll divided by ft = cost per ft.
> Multiply the two and get your cost per bale.
> Not all Netwrap is equal some will take 4 wraps to equal the strength of 3 wraps for another brand.


Or perhaps someone could come up with a Netwrap cost calculator

http://swmnhay.com/netwrap-cost-calculator.htm


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## Bruce Hopf (Jun 29, 2016)

swmnhay said:


> To figure cost per bale figure out the circumference of the bale,which is diameter x 3.14.Then x number of wraps = ft per bale.
> Figure out your cost per ft of net.Cost of roll divided by ft = cost per ft.
> Multiply the two and get your cost per bale.
> Not all Netwrap is equal some will take 4 wraps to equal the strength of 3 wraps for another brand.


Thank you so much, for all the help, and advice, you have given me. I remembered from school (31 years now, LOL), how to figure out the circumference, of a circle, but wasn't sure how to figure out, the Cost, per Foot, of net wrap. Pretry simple, to figure out, once you explained it. Thanks again, for all of your help. I greatly appreciate it.


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## foz682 (Jan 10, 2013)

Redbaler said:


> If you're running 2 balers with twine you will only need one for net. Always tricked me off how long it took to put enough twine on a bale. Wrapping and dumping only takes 30 seconds or so vs 2 minutes. Theoretically net balers with the same bale count as twine balers should have half or only 2/3rds of the hours.


I suppose it depends on the brand of baler and number of wraps, because our baler is twine and I've used a similar net baler, the tie time was roughly 20 seconds shorter for for the net, 14 vs 34 seconds. It sped us up a bit, but not enough to rush out and get a new baler.

We make roughly 800 bales per season, that 20 seconds per bale would only save us about 4.5 hrs a year.


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## Bruce Hopf (Jun 29, 2016)

OK, how would, one go about, trying to figuring out, the cost per round bale, using twine, instead of net wrap? Like I said before, I'm new to this round bale stuff. LOL.


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## Tim/South (Dec 12, 2011)

Bruce Hopf said:


> OK, how would, one go about, trying to figuring out, the cost per round bale, using twine, instead of net wrap? Like I said before, I'm new to this round bale stuff. LOL.


http://www2.vermeer.com/vermeer/NA/en/N/netwrap_calculator;jsessionid=FAB49FE1A793C524197BB7310A96647B


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## gearhartfarms82 (May 10, 2015)

Same way really and how many raps. Your material cost will be lower but your end result will be way higher with twine


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## r82230 (Mar 1, 2016)

Bruce Hopf said:


> OK, how would, one go about, trying to figuring out, the cost per round bale, using twine, instead of net wrap? Like I said before, I'm new to this round bale stuff. LOL.


As with net wrap

3.14 (if you want to be technical 22 / 7 for all the decimal places) times diameter times number of wraps (include the end raps in count) equals feet of product per round bale.

Example: 4x5 bale (5' diameter), 24 total twine raps (20 raps, plus 2 on each end), 20,000 foot of twine.

3.14 x 5' = 15.7' x 24 = 376.8' 20,000' / 376.8' = 53.08 round bales for each 20,000' of twine and if twine cost was $50, then $50 / 53.08' = 94. cents twine cost per bale, (94.29 cents per bale in the perfect world).

Wrapping time would be naturally greater with twine (24 revolutions verses 2-3 with net wrap), so if your baler is making 20 revolutions per minute, net wrap would be a six second process and twine a seventy-two second (1 minute, 12 second) process. Note: this is with one twine arm, divide in half for two twine arms (most newer balers I believe, therefore with 2 twine arms 36 seconds wrap time) Stopping the tractor, opening / dropping bale / closing baler and restarting to bale, in theory should be almost the same time, for either twine or net wrap. IMHO.

With given example of 20 revolutions per minute and two twine arms, works out to about 30 seconds per bale difference, YOUR times could be different.

From the time my alarm goes off (telling full bale, auto wrap is going to start), to letting the clutch out (restarting baling) is around 17 seconds in MY case, using net wrap, yours could be different.

Larry


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## Tx Jim (Jun 30, 2014)

Back when I used twine it took 38-40 seconds to apply twine on 4X5.5 bale utilizing twin twine tubes now with surface wrap it takes 8 seconds.


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## stoneridge (Jul 13, 2016)

thanks for all the info and the discussion about the net vs twine.

we bale graze about 2000 bales a year in Canadian winter. I was told that the net will be found lying where the bale was originally put in the spring where it could be collected after the snow melts.

still a pain but better than pulling twine off every bale before feeding.

price of sisal has shot up to 70$ a bundle around here so no dealers are even bringing it in, understandably. Was 35$ 2yrs ago which was about 1.10$ a bale. I can live with that if I don't need to add any labour to collect twine.

used net wrap kits are in the 3500$ range, but that's for well worn kits if you can find them. new are 10k$ from deere, not installed.

leaning towards plastic and fighting to collect it.

both 567's in great shape and I have the manpower for now to run 2.

hope sisal price drop back to earth but how often does that happen.

anyone have a contact on sourcing sisal directly from a producer or importer? Could take a semi load or container load if I could buy it right.


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## 8350HiTech (Jul 26, 2013)

Everyone has a different opinion of what is a pain to deal with, but I can't fathom how it's worse to have to take twine or wrap off before feeding than to have to dig it back out of some combination of dirt, manure, and spoiled hay months later. To each their own.


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## gearhartfarms82 (May 10, 2015)

Plastic = 30% loss on bales. 
Net = 10% loss on bales

I never have understood why string balers are still around except cost initially. I have feed both indoors and out and sold plenty of both but net in the long run will always be cheaper than twine if you fig cost of material lost, time savings in baling, and clean up at the end of the day.


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## luke strawwalker (Jul 31, 2014)

gearhartfarms82 said:


> Plastic = 30% loss on bales.
> Net = 10% loss on bales
> 
> I never have understood why string balers are still around except cost initially. I have feed both indoors and out and sold plenty of both but net in the long run will always be cheaper than twine if you fig cost of material lost, time savings in baling, and clean up at the end of the day.


Depends on what you're doing. I wouldn't want a net baler-- I prefer twine.

Later! OL J R


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## Tx Jim (Jun 30, 2014)

luke strawwalker said:


> Depends on what you're doing. I wouldn't want a net baler-- I prefer twine.
> 
> Later! OL J R


Luke

If you ever baled hay & feed hay that was net wrapped I'll bet you wouldn't want to go back to twine wrapped. Net is a lot easier to remove from a bale than twine as long as bale is being supported off the ground. Using my truck with spike bed I remove net while bale is standing straight up on spikes then lower bale to the ground & place hay ring around bale. I hated looking for the loose twine ends buried in the bale.


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## Bruce Hopf (Jun 29, 2016)

I have bought bales of hay, in the past, for my horses, that were wrapped, with twine. Always had to be extremly careful, to get all of the twins, gathered up, after they were cut, because if you didn't, they could get wrapped up, around the hooves, and legs, of the horse, and cause it, to freak out, and get hurt, and believe me, isn't a pretty picture, seeing a horse freak out, when it's hooves, get tangled up. 
Accasionaly, there was a short piece of twine, about 3 feel long, that was missed, and found a day, or two later, laying on the ground, or floor, of the barn. With the Net Wrap, no fuss, no muss, or worry, about finding any missed twine. And like someone stated earlier, about twine, getting in, a cow's stomach.


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## luke strawwalker (Jul 31, 2014)

Tx Jim said:


> Luke
> 
> If you ever baled hay & feed hay that was net wrapped I'll bet you wouldn't want to go back to twine wrapped. Net is a lot easier to remove from a bale than twine as long as bale is being supported off the ground. Using my truck with spike bed I remove net while bale is standing straight up on spikes then lower bale to the ground & place hay ring around bale. I hated looking for the loose twine ends buried in the bale.


Oh, we've bought a few net bales when we were running short-- hated them.

Just depends on what you like I guess...

Later! OL J R


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## JMT (Aug 10, 2013)

Depends on what you get used to. Then you like it.

I have not met anyone (who has gotten used to net) who then switched back to twine.


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## r82230 (Mar 1, 2016)

stoneridge said:


> anyone have a contact on sourcing sisal directly from a producer or importer? Could take a semi load or container load if I could buy it right.


Have you tried contacting Pritchett Twine? I have been told that in the US you can get a container direct shipped, Canada???.

http://www.balernetwrap.com/contact.htm


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## stoneridge (Jul 13, 2016)

thanks I'll give them a try.


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## Bruce Hopf (Jun 29, 2016)

r82230 said:


> Have you tried contacting Pritchett Twine? I have been told that in the US you can get a container direct shipped, Canada???.
> http://www.balernetwrap.com/contact.htm


Thanks for posting their website, might see about their Dealersite Wanted, might be worth a try, and ight get a better deal, on net, and twine.


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## Bruce Hopf (Jun 29, 2016)

r82230 said:


> As with net wrap
> 
> 3.14 (if you want to be technical 22 / 7 for all the decimal places) times diameter times number of wraps (include the end raps in count) equals feet of product per round bale.
> 
> ...


Thanks for all the help, and advice. As I had said before, this round baler stuff, is all new to me, over 40 years, doing Small Square Bales, and starting into Round Bales, now. Planning on doing some Custom Work, with this baler, and is nice to know before hand, what to quote a potential customer, of either Net Wrap, or Twine, as my baler has the copasity, to do either one. Thank you again, for all of yiur help, a d advice.


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## Bruce Hopf (Jun 29, 2016)

Got a call this evening, from a neighbor, a d he wants me to round bake straw tomorrow. Guess I should have asked this earlier, when it comes time to set the Core Diameter, for my 466 JD baler, how tight would you set the core? Tha KS again in advance, for the help, and advice.


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## Snow Farmer (Aug 30, 2011)

We both feed hay and sell it in rounds and small squares.

I would love to have had net wrap on my new round baler (JD559) but could not justify the additional expense. Could be something to do with the fact we have years worth of twine on hand for round and square, always like to have lots around plus bought a lot of discounted inventory off a dealer who was getting out of the retail business.

To my way of thinking, netted hay is just better all around except cost per bale.

If we ever get though all that twine I might look at retrofitting net to the round baler.

Snow Farmer


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## Bruce Hopf (Jun 29, 2016)

Bruce Hopf said:


> Got a call this evening, from a neighbor, a d he wants me to round bake straw tomorrow. Guess I should have asked this earlier, when it comes time to set the Core Diameter, for my 466 JD baler, how tight would you set the core? Thanks again in advance, for the help, and advice.


Forgot to mention, as of yet, I do not have a manual, for this baleer, the Dealership, has ordered one for me. Thanks again, for all the help, a d advice, everyone has given me, thus far. I greatly appreciate it.


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## Tx Jim (Jun 30, 2014)

Bruce you can view a JD rd baler OM online at JD's website. As far as the diagnostic channels are concerned it won't be exactly correct for your baler but it still better than "baling by the seat of one's pants."


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## Bruce Hopf (Jun 29, 2016)

I went on line again, to find the manual, for the 466 baler, and looked up, for adjusting the varibale core, for the bale. It says, in the Manual, that the variable core, can be set, from 24 inches, up to 67 inches, in half inch increments. 
This is where I'm lost, and I find things kind of confusing. Is it the Smaller the number, the tighter the core of the bale will be formed, and the tighter the bale will be built, or is it the bigger the number, the tighter the core, will be formed, and the tighter the bale, will be made? Once again, your help, a d advice, will be greatly appreciated.


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## Tx Jim (Jun 30, 2014)

Smaller core number should be tighter bale. I personally wouldn't set core number over 36'' and probably would lean towards 24''. High core number would allow bale to squat after being baled a few weeks. Yrs back I owned a 435 with the variable core option and rarely ever turned it on to utilize that option. Both my 467 baler don't have that option. IMHO variable core is only required if one is having bale starting problems or when one is baling higher moisture hay so bale can breath to dissipate some of the moisture.


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## Bruce Hopf (Jun 29, 2016)

Thanks so much, Jim, for clairiifing that, for me. It was what I was thinking, but I just wanted to make sure. Like I said earlier, I'm New, to this Round Baler Game. Been working around Small Square Balers, ever since I was 8 years old, old enough, to pile bales on a wagon, 3 high, was as high, as I could lift them.


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