# new holland bale truck



## farmboy9510 (Feb 16, 2009)

Hi

The time has come in my operation where i just cant keep up stacking on wagons, the main problem being finding good dependable help. This season i did around 27,500 bales between hay and straw my plan for first cut next year is to have a bale truck. The question is what model should i be looking for I want a sp for sure just wondering the good and bad on them what to look for what goes wrong what are some known problems. etc.

thanks for the help

Alex


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## Vol (Jul 5, 2009)

Alex, if you do not get the reply you are looking for, send a personal message(PM) to *Rodney R*....he is quite knowledgeable on NH bale wagons.

Regards, Mike


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## dbergh (Jun 3, 2010)

Hi Alex. I have a 1048 that we used on 22,000 bales this year and it is doing a good job for us. Has had a lot of bales through it but it is relatively trouble free. These machines are a myriad of hydraulic over mechanical systems that take a bit of TLC on a steady basis to insure that they remain trouble free. Make sure Hydraulic lines and hoses are not rubbing on each other or other linkages etc.. Take a good look at the tin on the 2nd table and the load rack to get an idea of how well used your prospective machine might be. Lots of dents and or deformation indicates a lot of rough use. Look the frame and pivot points over on the load rack and see if they are solid and not cracked or broken out. Repairs in critical areas are not uncommon and are acceptable if done correctly. Look for something with good rubber on it as they are very expensive to replace. 
You should be able to obtain a decent 1048 for $15,000 and up depending on condition. The next level of machine (1068, 1078 etc.) seems to take about a $25,000 to $30,000 jump in price for not a lot of difference in capabilities. You will get into a diesel powered rig at this level which is somewhat of an improvement over the gas power but don't be afraid to go with the gas models. Ours is a Ford V8 and does an OK job in most situations. Long trips down the highway with a full load are not the greatest with this engine but it will do the job. 
If money is no object the newer machines are very nice but you will pay $75,000 and up for these. I believe new price is approx $130,000 US. 
Good luck and let me know if you have any other questions.
Dave.


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## farmboy9510 (Feb 16, 2009)

Hi again

Thanks alot for all the info dave. As far as price I was thinking 15-20,000 A few more questions i have, you say you have a 1048 what is the capacity of that model of machine in 14x18's? The other question I have is what would the difference be between a 1048 and a 1049? Also wondering what your road speed with this machine is ? sorry for all the questions this is all new to me.

Thanks

Alex


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## expensive hobby (Feb 16, 2010)

i live in the simcoe area and i have a 1063 for sale,it is a pull tye model with the same capacity and decks as a sp model,im looking for 8000 for it,[email protected]


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## dbergh (Jun 3, 2010)

farmboy9510 said:


> Hi again
> 
> Thanks alot for all the info dave. As far as price I was thinking 15-20,000 A few more questions i have, you say you have a 1048 what is the capacity of that model of machine in 14x18's? The other question I have is what would the difference be between a 1048 and a 1049? Also wondering what your road speed with this machine is ? sorry for all the questions this is all new to me.
> 
> ...


Not sure on 14 x 18's but it will haul 88 16 x 18's. I would guess it would be the same with the smaller bale as well. 1048 is a two wide machine while the 1049 is a three wide machine and will haul more bales but not sure on that quantity either. 
40 to 45 mph is probably max on my machine with a full load which is really plenty fast when you are loaded. 
One other thing about using NH stackwagons- make sure you have consistent length bales and that you bale a good solid bale or you will hate it. If your bales are soft or spongy It will break more bales than it will load and your stacks will tend to fall over as well. If baled properly these machines will handle an amazing number of bales in a day with out having to touch hardly a single bale by hand. They take a bit of getting used to but for us it is the only way we can handle as many bales as we do.


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## Vol (Jul 5, 2009)

Alex, here's some info from Roeders in Kansas that should be helpful....I have driven within 4 miles of this place while hunting in Kansas....located in Northern Kansas just off highway 36.

Regards, Mike

http://roederimp.com/specks/


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## wileyjd (Sep 2, 2010)

If you can find i would suggest the diesel machines they tend to run longer and cheaper than the older gas we have run super1048 to our current 1095 the newer machines with the computar allow the operator to run with little down time the 1085 machine is a great older model with all of the upgrades the newer machines will allow you to build your stacks and store the program for future use i also would make sure like mentioned tight even bales are very important


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## Rodney R (Jun 11, 2008)

In general most machines end in a '9' that will handle 3 bales wide. So you'd be looking at a 1049 or maybe a 1069. The early 1069 had a gas engine as well - a 460 v8 Ford. balewagon.com or roederimp.com will have a spec on either machine. Like was said, look for anything that might be bent/worn/welded. Heavy rust will take forever to wear off, and may never wear off. The bale will need to slide on all of the flat surfaces - these things need to be that shiney that you need non-slip shoes to walk on them.

Rodney


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## Teslan (Aug 20, 2011)

I doubt you could hardly find a 1069 for under $20,000 as is farmboy's budget. At least not without having to put another $10k into it. But man Farmboy. You are a beast to do 27k plus bales with wagons and hand labor. Also you need to think about how and where you are going to unload the stacker. For a 1069 stacker I believe you have to have about 18 feet of dumping height in a barn. Maybe to save some money check out NH pull type stackers? Or check out the various accumulators out there that might work good for you.


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## hay rake (Dec 31, 2011)

Something that has not been mentioned is the bale pick-up. This is the most often damaged part and is one of the most expensive. between the basket and the arms it is close to five thousand to buy from new holland. you can make the arms but the basket is a bitch. on an older pull type when they are bad they junk them. if you do go with a pull type only a 1063 will allow you to load a trailer with a tier from the wagon. all of the 105 bale wagons are one row short of filling the trailer. pull types are nice but self propelled is the only way to go.hope this helps. gary


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## farmboy9510 (Feb 16, 2009)

Thanks again for all the replies

I once did consider the pull type machines but the huge down side that i see is speed. You guys correct me if I 'am wrong by saying this but i do indeed think you could put a load on a sp faster then on a pt and i know for sure the road travel on a sp is faster then a pt. As far a accumulators go I feel that the overall speed of the bale truck is faster then what the accumulator would be. After looking around I would think that a 1049 would be the machine i'll be looking to get.

Alex


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## Rodney R (Jun 11, 2008)

The speed is definatley a BIG factor. The PT machines are limited by how fast the tractor can go when going down the road. The SP machines will go a lot faster, haul more, and unload faster. You can pick up a load of 160 bales in just over 15 minutes, but depending on the travel, it might take another 20 minutes till you're back in the field. Yes,you do need about 17 ft and a few inches to unload a full load, but a guy can always keep a row off, and add it later with a grabber. The hydraulic rolling rack on the SP models allows you to unload partial loads as well.

Rodney


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## Teslan (Aug 20, 2011)

I've never operated a PT NH stacker and after only using a SP I think I would be incredibly frustrated with a pull type.


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## Josh in WNY (Sep 7, 2010)

Teslan, I am the opposite of you as far as experience. I have a 1033 pull type and used to have an old 1010, but I have never run a SP balewagon. For what I am doing (small operation, very little road travel) the PT works really well. They are cheaper to purchase (unless you start looking at brand new) and have a lot less to fix on them (no engine, transmission, etc.). However, if I was doing any serious amount of road travel or a large amount of hay, I would be looking for a SP. The other advantage is since they only handle 104 bales (stack is only 7 tiers high) they don't require as much height for unloading.

Rodney, I'm not 100% sure, but I believe the new PT balewagons also have the hydraulic rolling rack (1034 and newer). The 1033 I have uses the spring return and it can be a pain when you only have half a load to pick up. I hope to someday upgrade to one of the hydraulic rolling rack versions, but the wagon I have right now works great... and more importantly it's finally all paid off!


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## Teslan (Aug 20, 2011)

I think I would be most frustrated with a pull type is when unloading and the speed. The difference in unloading is the more difficult it is to back something up that is a trailer then one whole vehicle.like the SP type. I'm sure I could get used to it if I had to, but I know I would be frustrated at first.


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## dbergh (Jun 3, 2010)

Rodney R said:


> The speed is definatley a BIG factor. The PT machines are limited by how fast the tractor can go when going down the road. The SP machines will go a lot faster, haul more, and unload faster. You can pick up a load of 160 bales in just over 15 minutes, but depending on the travel, it might take another 20 minutes till you're back in the field. Yes,you do need about 17 ft and a few inches to unload a full load, but a guy can always keep a row off, and add it later with a grabber. The hydraulic rolling rack on the SP models allows you to unload partial loads as well.
> 
> Rodney


Good point on the Hyd. rolling rack. That is one thing that I would change on my 1048. Partial loads are a pain to deal with and potentially damaging if you try to roll it back less than full.


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## Josh in WNY (Sep 7, 2010)

Teslan said:


> I think I would be most frustrated with a pull type is when unloading and the speed. The difference in unloading is the more difficult it is to back something up that is a trailer then one whole vehicle.like the SP type. I'm sure I could get used to it if I had to, but I know I would be frustrated at first.


Teslan, as far as speed in the field, I've never had a problem since I am usually limited by how fast the first table cycles the bales. The furthest field from my house is only a mile down the road and the rest are right next to the barn, so travel time really isn't an issue. As for backing up... it can be a pain until you get used to it. The biggest problem I have is getting lined up with the previous stack. One thing I'm going to try is to by one of those remote backup cameras that they sell at places like Autozone. I'm still trying to figure out where exactly I want to mount it, but I think it will really help with getting things lined up. Plus it will be nice to know what is behind me when I have a load, especially on the road.


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## hay rake (Dec 31, 2011)

when you back into a building use the roof as a guide. in our metal building i line the right side of the wagon up with a roof stringer that lines up with the left side of the pile. when you are about to start by the right cube stand the load rack about 80% up and you can see that the two cubes align. now with about two feet to go stand the load rack up and back up twitching the back of the wagon into the cube to the right to lock them together. now go over center with the load rack and push off. now with that all being said with a self propelled you look out the left mirror, line it up with the cube to your left back up and unload. the choice is yours


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## Teslan (Aug 20, 2011)

I've never liked using the mirror. I lean out the door and look behind when the load rake is half way up.


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## hay rake (Dec 31, 2011)

using the mirror is the truck driver in me


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## Teslan (Aug 20, 2011)

I think I've probably never used the mirror on our hay stackers because on our first 1069 by the time I was old enough to learn to stack with it the mirror had been broken and never replaced. So I went 10 years with no mirror. So when we got our new 1089 with a mirror I just didn't use it. In fact I took it off because it always was getting in the way of the door opening up.


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## dbergh (Jun 3, 2010)

We stack outdoors and have found that stretching a long line with baler twine on the ground and using this to locate the left edge of each stack as you back and set it down helps keep everything nice and straight.


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## Teslan (Aug 20, 2011)

dbergh said:


> We stack outdoors and have found that stretching a long line with baler twine on the ground and using this to locate the left edge of each stack as you back and set it down helps keep everything nice and straight.


 That is a great tip. I would think it could work for inside stacking also.


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## Rodney R (Jun 11, 2008)

_When I have to stack outside I just set a bale right next to the lst stack that I set down. I can see the bale in the mirror to get lined up, and You can see it by turning around when you get real close. the mirror is real handy when you're picking up bales, and there is another row of bales of your left..... I try to avoid that, but if a guy gets to the field after the baler has left he doesn't have much choice. As much as I can I try to pick bales the same direction as the baler went..... They can be picked either way, but it works a little better, and I don't know why. I also try to be 'off' just a little bit, cause if the bale hits the back of the loader square, it seems to bounce front again._

_Rodney_


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## farmboy9510 (Feb 16, 2009)

Hello again

Looking for so more help and imput. This time it is actually about a machine i'm looking at. The machine that i found is a 1069 it has the gas motor not the diesel unfortunatly but either way. The one thing i really like but also has me concerned is the price tag which is $9000. It has around five thousand hours on it the sales guy says the only problem he know about is the transmission pops out of first gear sometimes. Just wanted to here from you guys with experience what your thoughts are on that amount of hours on a machine like this. I am also thinking with a price like that you can afford to put some money into it to make it a good machine again. let me know what ya think.

Thanks


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## Teslan (Aug 20, 2011)

That is pretty darn cheap for a 1069. The cheapest I've seen online for a 1069 is about $20k. But then I don't look for them often. 5000 hours for that old of a machine isn't to bad, but stackers can take quite the beating. More so I think then a tractor with 5000 hours for sure.


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## jeff outwest (Sep 13, 2009)

Backing a balewagon in a straight stack can be a problem. But it can be solved quite easily, by staking out a string line with twine on the ground. I have ran both a pull type and self propelled wagons. Loading speed I think is equal between the two, with manual trannys. An Auto transmission in the newer models have sped them up tremendously. I would image an IVT or Hydro tractor would be almost as good, on a pull type machine.


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## Rodney R (Jun 11, 2008)

I would think that at 5000 hours, a guy could start to see some hydraulic problems, and just about everything on them would be wore out, and ther'd be some metal fatigue, and maybe the sheetmetal would be just plain ole thin. But, I really don't know, as I've never been around one with those hours, but i would be very suspicious of the thing, and look it over with an extremely fine toothed comb, because the price is cheap, and hours are high.

Rodney


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