# Need advice on bermuda



## Blue Duck (Jun 4, 2009)

I have 70ac of bermuda that has been pastured until last year. I want to start putting it up for hay but it is far to rough. It has a lot of top growth from sitting idle last year. I was thinking about burning it off and smoothing it then pull a roller over. Should I do it while the grass is still dormant? Or should I do something else to get it smoothed out? I really don't want to sprig it again but I will if it is my only option.


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## mike (Jan 4, 2010)

I would burn off the field wile dormant ,thain lightly disk and drag. be ready for some weeds , and fertilze it good. this has worked good for me. good luck
mike


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## Mike120 (May 4, 2009)

I agree with Mike but I would suggest you get a soil sample. It's too late for lime but at least you'll know what else you'll need. Unless it's real bad, you can probably make it pretty decent with just a chain drag and a roller. Fertilize it and plan on spraying.


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## vhaby (Dec 30, 2009)

Depending on where you are located, there may still be time (but don't delay) to take a soil sample to determine fertilizer and lime needs of the soil, and to apply the limestone by the time the bermudagrass initiates spring regrowth. It is never too late to apply limestone if done properly. Surface-applied ag-grade limestone (ECCE 62%) will do little good to change pH of a soil established in a perennial bermudagrass sod. Surface application of a fine limestone such as ECCE 100%, that can be purchased from two quarries in Texas, followed by disk incorporation is the best way to handle liming a soil if the soil test indicates liming is needed.

Demonstrations and observations indicate that limestone can be successfully incorporated into established stands of hybrid bermudagrass with little loss of forage yield. This is accomplished by limestone application in late winter/early spring followed by disking several times to mix the limestone into the surface soil during the time that bermudagrass begins active regrowth in early spring. Soil moisture at this time usually is adequate and the chances for rainfall are greater than in late summer. Disking also helps control winter weeds and incorporates non-mobile plant nutrients, such as P, and plant residue and manure that has accumulated on the soil surface. Pack the freshly disked soil immediately after disking using a weighted roller to help seal moisture in the soil and to smooth the soil surface for future haying operations. Disking and rolling an established field of bermudagrass is similar to sprigging to establish a new stand, except that the whole field is effectively resprigged rather than individual rows that are several feet apart. Be aware that this may be attractive to feral hogs if they already frequent your area.

Burning the excess surface residue as mentioned earlier likely is a good practice. In so doing however, you will be burning a good source of organic matter that this soil may be badly in need of, especially if it is a sandy loam or loamy sand such as occurs in much of the Coastal Plain of the southern US. If you plan on burning the residue, do it first and then apply any recommended limestone and fertilizer followed by the disk incorporation mentioned above.


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## hay wilson in TX (Jan 28, 2009)

At one time we had a Forage Extension Specialist out of Dallas, TX who mentioned that a turning plow wa a good thing to use to renovate bermudagrass. 
You essentially will be resprigging your field using your own sprigs.

Personally I have no problem burning off old dead grass. It is a real good practice for the Tall Grass Prairie and is recommended, by some, for bermudagrass meadows.

Being on clay soil, I like to inject anhydrous ammonia into the sod, and that has a good renovation effect. You will need a cutting coulter in front of the knife for the roots. Here we can put all the nitrogen fertilizer for the entire year out in the fall/winter/spring. Something that is not advised for sandy soil.


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## Mike120 (May 4, 2009)

Vhaby & hay wilson,

As much time and cost as I've got invested in my Tifton 85, I'm a bit paranoid about taking a disk out there. Happily, it's in really good shape. I do have another field of Bermuda and some horse paddocks that need cleanup. How deep can I disk it without hurting the root system? I'm NW of Houston in sandy loam. Thanks.


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## geiselbreth (Feb 21, 2010)

25 acres 007 bermuda grass here soil sample after dormant when dryenough apply p&k i put n out 2 weeks before cutting also i spray at 10%green 32 oz round up 1 ldiuron and 10 oz of 24d with suffanti also burn in spring new product out for section 18 exemption for ok tex and ms called pastora fron dupont field trial looked real good takes out johnson grass bahia some ryegrass and some broadleafs coming in april last year hi fertilize rate 300lbs k 100 p 400 lbs n and 50 s get real good results


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## hay wilson in TX (Jan 28, 2009)

I would use the disk after it is green and growing. Maybe use one of the pasture renovators if you do not want to use a disk harrow. If yo do disk it be sure to drag the ground smooth.


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## vhaby (Dec 30, 2009)

Mike120 said:


> Vhaby & hay wilson,
> 
> As much time and cost as I've got invested in my Tifton 85, I'm a bit paranoid about taking a disk out there. Happily, it's in really good shape. I do have another field of Bermuda and some horse paddocks that need cleanup. How deep can I disk it without hurting the root system? I'm NW of Houston in sandy loam. Thanks.


My experience with disking an established stand of bermudagrass is with Coastal. I understand your concern about disking Tifton 85. The best management of Tifton 85, as with all of the hybrid bermudagrasses, is to maintain a very good fertilization program that includes applying at least as much potassium as nitrogen with an adequate amount of phosphorus if you are selling hay. As you know, the phosphorus, especially if your soil test P level is low, should all be applied at spring green up or even earlier. The N on sandy soils should be applied for each regrowth, and the potassium works well if split applied- about half at spring green up and the next application after a couple of harvests have been made. This method of fertilizing flies in the face of most recommendations from fertilizer companies who want to apply N, P, and K each time they come out to fertilize bermudagrass fields. However, if your soil test indicates that P is low, applying a little dab for each regrowth, rather than all at once at green up, will not overcome the P deficiency.

When disking established stands of Coastal bermudagrass, attempting to disk 5 to 6 inches deep, twice or three times over the field when the soil contains a good level of moisture, *and immediately follow with a heavy roller to pack the soil *and seal in the moisture has worked well. As mentioned earlier, disking established stands of hybrid bermudagrasses essentially resprigs the field.


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## davang (Apr 7, 2010)

I'm trying to renovate 10 acres that I just acquired. It's got 3 acres that are about 50 % coastal or common bermuda and the rest weeds/flowers. 5 acres has been cattle grazed and needs to be heavily disked and rolled. Someone just recommended burning the whole thing off. Shouldn't that be done when it's dormant or is it OK to start over now.
Also, I've read in two places that disking coastal either kills it or doesn't help the yield. Is that old information? Thanks


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## vhaby (Dec 30, 2009)

Davang,
What does the moisture situation look like for your area now and in the next few weeks? Collect a soil sample and send it to a laboratory for analysis. While waiting for the fertilizer recommendations based on the soil test, spray the weeds to get them out of the picture. Fertilize according to the recommendations from the soil test this season to see what kind of production this acreage can make. If not satisfied, follow the recommendations given earlier in this thread for renovating the bermudagrass next spring. Normally, it is too late to tear up a stand of bermudagrass this season. And no, if done at the proper time, disking when soil moisture is adequate followed by rolling to pack the freshly disked soil should not kill Coastal bermudagrass. Done at the wrong time, like in a dry hot summer and not rolling the soil to pack it and conserve moisture, disking can kill Coastal bermudagrass. We purposely have disked at the wrong time and left the soil loose to kill Coastal bermudagrass to clean up a field in preparation for seeding alfalfa in fall.


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## davang (Apr 7, 2010)

Thank you for the very valuable information. I can spray the weeds today. We received a lot of rain this week and looking for additional next week. I f I understand correctly you are saying that we can't or shouldn't try to eradicate the "coastal" this summer just try to make the best of it this year?
The other weedy sections I'm sure can be burned off since there's nothing there of value. I found someone who can plant Jiggs tops for me in those areas would that be a good idea?
How can I tell if the Bermuda is Coastal or Common?
In lieu of rolling can I use the smooth side of my drag harrow? It's very heavy and has 3 inch pipes on the leading and trailing edge.

Thanks so much.


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## DKFarms (Aug 11, 2008)

Disking is an option, however, down here in the south, disking usually brings up all those dormant weeds that the bermuda was crowding out. Just be prepared to spray for whatever comes up. I have had that experience when I lightly disked, about 4 inches, and rolled some places that were rutted up a little during haying. All of a sudden my clean Jiggs had some islands of sedge and panicum that were not there before until I disked.


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## hay wilson in TX (Jan 28, 2009)

Disking bermudagrass will resprigg your meadow, using your own spriggs.

A, now retired Texas Extesnion Forage Specialest out of Dallas said we can use a turning plow if done in the same time of year you would sprig a field.


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## davang (Apr 7, 2010)

This may seem like a stupid question but I would assume that the "resprigging" effect stimulates new growth? Do the hybrid bermudas have a limit of their lifespan?

Thanks


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## vhaby (Dec 30, 2009)

In response to one of your earlier questions, Coastal bermudagrass is taller, not as dense, and, because it is a hybrid (sterile), usually will not produce many seedheads until fall. Common will form a dense sod like a lawn and put up seed heads all summer long. In a drought, Coastal will be more drought tolerate if the soil is deep so that common will show effects of drought earlier than Coastal.

Using the smooth side of your drag harrow likely will not pack the soil adequately to conserve moisture. A drag harrow will help smooth the soil. A roller filled with water does the best job of repacking freshly disked moist soil.

Disking a stand of Coastal bermudagrass stimulates regrowth mainly because of incorporating surface applied, relatively non-mobile plant nutrients such as phosphorus and by aerating the soil to increase mineralization (breaking down) of organic matter that releases plant nutrients.

Do the hybrid bermudas have a limit of their lifespan? To my knowledge, hybrid bermudagrasses have no limit on their lifespan when an adequate fertility program is practiced. Poor fertilizer and liming practices such as not applying adequate potash (muriate of potash, potassium chloride) and applying high rates of nitrogen without maintaining an adequate liming program on acid soils will cause a decline in stand density and ultimately elimination of the stand.


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## davang (Apr 7, 2010)

Thank you, thank you, I've got a lot to go on now. I have been looking around my property (not the hayfield) and I can definitely discern the existing coastal from the common that I seeded when we moved in. In fact I see lots of it that is coming up because of all the rain we've been getting lately. Can't wait for the ground to dry out a little so I can get on it with the fertilizer wagon. Soil test kit is on the way.

I just got my equipment delivered and of course have to move it all around in the mud, they couldn't bring it before the rain.


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## lewbest (Dec 9, 2009)

Some of your rain is supposed to be coming our way; sure hope it does. It's been really dry here; got 1.69" a few days ago that soaked in almost instantly.

Lew


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## vhaby (Dec 30, 2009)

davang,

You mentioned that your soil test kit is on the way. What do you mean? Did you order a "do-it-yourself" soil testing kit?

Most of us go to our county extension agent's office and borrow a soil sampling probe and get from them some soil sample bags. Then we sample the soil and send it to a commercial or state run soil testing lab for analysis and test-based fertilizer recommendations.


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## davang (Apr 7, 2010)

No it's basically just a mailer to send the sample to the lab and instructions on taking the sample.. They're located in Edinburgh TX, Texas Plant and Soil Lab. I ordered the comprehensive analysis. They also make fertilization recommendations based on the data.


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## davang (Apr 7, 2010)

I think you got that rain. Hope it was enough.


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## Mike120 (May 4, 2009)

I'm sure the folks in the Valley will do a great job, but their prices seemed a bit high.For future soil tests you might want to try: Forms for Texas A&M University Soil, Water and Forage Testing Laboratory

Their prices are a bit better so you can take more samples. You'd be amazed at the variability you can find from one side of a field to the other. Good luck!


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## davang (Apr 7, 2010)

Thanks for the info. They are cheaper. Texas Soil has some basic tests that are cheaper than what I paid for. I read someone's comments somewhere who was not entirely happy with A&M's test results accuracy which is why I tried Texas Soil Labs. Might be interesting to send to both this first go round!
gonna take the samples tomorrow.


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