# Krone 283S lubrication?



## Tx Jim (Jun 30, 2014)

Can someone PLEASE tell me the correct places to check and what type lubrication this new to me used Krone cutter requires?? As one would guess it came with no operators manual. It was advertised as cutting less than 500 acres and still has paint on the turtles(blade holders). It has a Vassar caddy which looks well fabricated IE heavy built. 
Thanks,Jim


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## Troy Farmer (Jul 31, 2011)

Cutter Bar oil level check: There is a size 17 or 18 metric plug on the rear of the cutter bar about a 1/3 of the way from the drive end. Raise cutter bar to 90 degrees remove plug and 90 w gear oil should run out.

Cutter bar drive gear box: should be a sight plug on rear side. I always just screwed mine out because I couldn't see the level. Also 90 w.

Right angle drive where PTO connects: level plug on outside. Again 90 w mower should be sitting on park leg.

There are grease fittings on the U joints and slip clutch under the "flip door" that the rope attaches to.
Other grease fittings are in usual places.


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## Tx Jim (Jun 30, 2014)

Thanks for reply. The cutter arrived at my farm at nearly dark so I only got a brief inspection.

Thanks again,Jim


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## krone.1 (Jul 28, 2013)

If you will send me your information I will get an operator's manual to you. Or if you go to our website, (www.Krone-na.com) all of our manuals are online.

The only thing I would add to Troy Farmer's information is when you fold up the cutterbar to check the level, allow some time for the lubrication to settle down to the bottom so you don't overfill it. All the gearboxes use GL-5 lube, I would recommend a good quality that has an anti-foam addititive.


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## Tx Jim (Jun 30, 2014)

Thanks for replies,Jim


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## TJH (Mar 23, 2014)

I mix 20% lucas oil stabilizer in mine, it seems to quite them down some.


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## Tx Jim (Jun 30, 2014)

I now have a copy of the OM.

Thanks,Jim


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## clowers (Feb 11, 2011)

Jim

Where did you get your copy of the OM, my mower only came with a parts book.

scott


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## Tx Jim (Jun 30, 2014)

Nice parts person named Jeremy at Messicks Equip emailed me the Krone OM website. KRONE 1 who posted in this thread offered to send me an OM also. How do you like your Krone cutter? I haven't had time to cut with my new to me cutter yet. I was going to cut with it today but it rained here last PM.









http://www.krone-na.com/543-2%20US.pdf


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## Tim/South (Dec 12, 2011)

The grease fittings on the pivot point, the one with the two large round covers, does not take much grease and only needs greasing once or twice a year. If you force grease you will blow the seal.

Not sure I have explained that very well. Krone1 knows the terminology much better.


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## Tx Jim (Jun 30, 2014)

Tim/South said:


> The grease fittings on the pivot point, the one with the two large round covers, does not take much grease and only needs greasing once or twice a year. If you force grease you will blow the seal.
> 
> Not sure I have explained that very well. Krone1 knows the terminology much better.


Thanks I understand the terminology as I been lightly greasing my 4255 rear axle brgs since '93 & 4240 before that.

Thanks again,Jim


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## krone.1 (Jul 28, 2013)

One of the really GOOD things we do is provide all of our parts and operator's manuals online.

To get either manual go to:

www.krone-na.com

Then click on the "parts and service" tab

*For op manuals* click on "operators manuals" and a language tab will open.

Click on the language you want,

A screen will open up with all of the equipment groups.

Click on the picture of the group and a list will open with all the models.

Click on the manual you want and it will open

Depending on your browser, you can download or "save file", Or Print.

*For Parts Manuals* go to the "parts and service" tab.

Click on "spare parts manuals"

Another box will open and click on "manuals"

Another screen will open and you have the choice of "Agroparts" or PDF manuals.

You can use Agroparts which is the dealer system, but you have to register to use it.

If you click on PDF manuals you can open it online, download it, or print it.

I personally like to have a paper copy of the manuals for everything I have in the shop. I keep a file drawer with folders so I have quick access to the manuals. I just have to remember to put them back when I am through, Unlike most of the haytalkers I don't have a full time secretary to do this for me. HA!


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## Tx Jim (Jun 30, 2014)

Tim/South said:


> The grease fittings on the pivot point, the one with the two large round covers, does not take much grease and only needs greasing once or twice a year. If you force grease you will blow the seal.
> 
> Not sure I have explained that very well. Krone1 knows the terminology much better.


OM states grease every 10 hrs of operation but doesn't specify how much grease.


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## krone.1 (Jul 28, 2013)

We used to have an open joint on the earlier machines, Later on we went to a sealed hinge point, There is a machined groove on either side of the hinge plate and now they are sealed with large O-rings. So,,,,, as long as the seal is intact, it's not going to take much grease at all, If the seal is compromised, obviously it will take more grease as it is able to escape, We have lobbied for the grease fitting to be replaced by a plug after it is initially lubricated during assembly, but we run the risk of the hinge point not getting lubed correctly during assembly.

I think the best solution would be to explain the procedure in the op manual. If it doesn't take lube with a minumum amount of pressure and no evidence of escaped lubricant, then all is good. There is a massive brass close tolerance bushing inside that it pivots on, so it is not going to need a lot of lubrication.

IMO the most important fitting to lube on the AM mower is the inside pivot (paralell to the driveshaft). If it freezes up it will cause a lot of operation issues, You can't overgrease it.


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## Tx Jim (Jun 30, 2014)

krone.1

Thanks for info. I read the operators manual but can't determine the correct length/tension required on the compensation & float springs. I read that for 3pt draft arm pin height that the slot requires 70 MM from left end of slot. The hyd cyl fails to close completely to enable the cutterbar to raise completely. I saw no breather on butt end of cylinder so I think some oil has bypassed piston & is trapped in butt end of cylinder.so cutterbar can't go vertical. To clarify I'm disabled &a friend went to inspect and bring the cutter home to me so I took friends word on machine condition.

Thanks for any help,Jim


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## Tim/South (Dec 12, 2011)

There should be a little arrow type mark on the slot in the first picture you posted. Raise the lower 3 point hitch arms until the linkage is aligned with the mark. I set my 3 point hitch stop at that position.

The second picture is for attaching the back spring. It is designed to be disconnected before unhooking the mower from the 3 point hitch. The front spring remains fastened. The back spring has a holder to rest in. Unhooking allows the lower pins to be level with each other and makes hooking to the three point hitch a breeze.

Not certain either of those pictures apply if using a cart. I have never seen a 3 point disc mower mounted on a cart.


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## clowers (Feb 11, 2011)

My dealer did not explain to me about unhooking the back spring to help in hooking and unhooking from the tractor. Thanks for the tip Tim/South

Krone1

Is the best way to drain the cutter bar of oil, vertical or horizontal position and is there an easy way to refill it? I am thinking vertical.

Any tips on oil change would be helpful.

thanks

Scott


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## clowers (Feb 11, 2011)

TXJim

I got 5.5 inches of rain last night myself.

I like the 283 S it cuts really well. My only complaint is that the blades do not last as long as Kuhn blades seem to last. But it is a good mower.

Scott


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## Tx Jim (Jun 30, 2014)

Tim/South said:


> I have never seen a 3 point disc mower mounted on a cart.


Tim

I;m not concerned about unhooking the spring as my cutter will stay attached to caddy. I'm concerned with how much tension all 3 springs should have in cutting position. I'll look for the "mark" you described to set 3 pt pin height.

Thanks for info,Jim.


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## krone.1 (Jul 28, 2013)

I start out with about 4 inches of threads showing on all the threads. The shorter spring floats the inboard end of the cutterbar and and the longer spring(s) float the outer end of the cutterbar. I like to set the cutterbar to where it is a little bouncy and then back the spring tension off a little. I like to run the cutterbar as light as possible. In service training we say to set the springs so that when you grab the curtain frame and lift, there is about 125 lbs of downpressure. (I use my method since I can only lift 32 lbs.). The manual does not list any specs for settings. Bottom line, you want enough ground pressure so that it follows the ground without bouncing, but not so tight that it drags heavily. I would say that 95% of the mowers are still at the 4" thread setting.

I also like to take all the tension off all of the springs during storage. (Shameless sales pitch: On many mowers you have to lock the springs under tension to unhook, we release the tension)


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## krone.1 (Jul 28, 2013)

On some AM mowers there is a socket head plug on the inboard top of the cutterbar to drain while folded up. On other models you drain through the lowest socket hex bolt on the bottom side of the cutterbar, both while folded up. OR you can remove the outer swathboard bracket to gain access to the breather plug, remove the plug and lower the end of the cutterbar, and drain the fluid out the vent plug hole. I think you get a faster, cleaner drain through the inside plugs since the cutterbar is vertical. But draining through the outer end you can use regular sockets. At Krone, we give you choices!

You will refill through the check plug hole. This is good if you have a lube pump. It is a pain trying to pour it in. If you don't have a pump, I think it is easier to remove an inner module and pour it in through there. Just remove the 4 bolts securing the discs, CLEAN around the module, remove the 7 bolts that holds the module, mark it so you put it back in the same place, and lift the module out. You then have a nice large hole to pour into, Did I mention to CLEAN around the hole? Your manual will tell you how much to put in. Fold the cutterbar, let the fluid settle and check the level with the plug.

It takes GL-5 Lubricant. I like to use a good quality brand, so it has an antifoam additive in it. (air doesn't lubricate) I will probably start a debate, but I wouldn't spring for synthetic in the cutterbar housing. If I were in an extremely hot environment, I would consider synthetic in the gearboxes.


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## Tx Jim (Jun 30, 2014)

krone 1

Thanks for reply. Does one need to wait to engage pto for oil to travel to RH end of cutterbar after lowering from transport to cutting position?

Thanks,Jim


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## krone.1 (Jul 28, 2013)

Tx Jim said:


> krone 1
> 
> Thanks for reply. Does one need to wait to engage pto for oil to travel to RH end of cutterbar after lowering from transport to cutting position?
> 
> Thanks,Jim


Jim, Excellent question. Personally, I like to run any pto driven machine for a few minutes before engaging the crop. I think it is a good habit to get into just to get everything lubed up. We use a large gear setup in our cutterbar that acts somewhat like a pump to get the oil circulating. Ever see the Lucas additive gear display at the parts store? We also use sealed bearings inside the cutterbar, so really the gears are all that are lubed by the gear oil, (unless you have a seal failure on one of the bearings, then the lube comes into play there). It also helps that the cutterbar is a wide, shallow sump so that the lube evens out quickly.

To answer your question, most mowers are unfolded, started up and immediatly engaged into the crop.

But I would say it would be best to run it for a minute or so before you mow.


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## TJH (Mar 23, 2014)

The techs at my dealership told me to top the bar off with 85-140 mixed 20% with lucas stabilizer. Any harm in that Krone.1?


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## Tx Jim (Jun 30, 2014)

krone.1

Thank you. I guessed correctly and let cutterbar set in horizontal position a couple of minutes before I allow cutting to commence. I never had that question with my Vermeer M7040 because the individual modular have grease similar to corn head grease in them. I will state that I really like the way this Krone cutter cuts hay.

Thanks,Jim


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## krone.1 (Jul 28, 2013)

TJH said:


> The techs at my dealership told me to top the bar off with 85-140 mixed 20% with lucas stabilizer. Any harm in that Krone.1?


It shouldn't hurt and may help on dry starts like we have talked about. It is a petroleum based product with, I am guessing, a heavy additive package. Is it costly?


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## Tx Jim (Jun 30, 2014)

krone 1

I.looked at the AM283S parts catalog to try and diagnose why this cutterbar cylinder won't fully retract but I found no breakdown of cylinder just a complete cylinder or seal kit. Am I overlooking a page in the parts catalog about cylinder? Is it possible for oil to leak past piston seal and hydra lock cylinder but no oil come out of cyl breather?

Thanks,Jim


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## krone.1 (Jul 28, 2013)

Can you see the vent? Is it about a 1/4 hole with a mesh type vent in the hole? I suppose it is possible for it to get plugged and keep the piston from retracting all the way. If you are sure it's not the tractor. I would take the cylinder apart and inspect.

Remove the cylinder and retract the ram all the way in. Then clamp the cylinder body in a vise. Take an electric heat gun OR a propane torch and heat the end cap on the ram end of the cylinder. This is to release the locking/sealant agent on the threads. It WILL NOT come off without heating it. If you don't have a spanner, use a pipe wrench. don't heat any more than necessary to to melt the agent, Heat it a little and try to loosen it, if it doesn't come loose, heat it a little more. Once the sealant releases you can almost screw it off with your hand. (but don't it is hot) Unscrew the cap and gently pull the assembly out of the bore. you can see down in the barrel. If you are gentle and see no damage or evidence of leakage, you can probably get by without a seal kit, you will need to reseal the threads with loctite.

Edit, if it is an earlier 283, it may have a snap ring that holds the gland in place vs, a screw on cap.


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## krone.1 (Jul 28, 2013)

Also, you may want to try letting the cutterbar down, disconnect the ram end of the cylinder and see it the cylinder will retract all the way without lifting the cutterbar. If it still doesn't then you are almost halfway there with removing the cylinder.


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## clowers (Feb 11, 2011)

Krone 1

I guess i am slow here, but is the inboard side drain plug to the right side of my sight glass when the cutter bar is in the vertical position. I found the the breather plug at the end of the bar under the swath board bracket. Reason being, I had oil build up and thought i had a leak.

I have changed the oil in the in the small gear box behind the drive line. No issues with that. Just issues with changing cutter bar oil. Thanks for a all your advice.


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## Tx Jim (Jun 30, 2014)

krone.1

Cutter is an '09 model(sn 779xxx) that hasn't been used very much(green paint on turtles & some places underside of cutter bar). My friend that procured it for me stated it didn't raise to 90 degrees on previous owners tractor either. Yes I located vent but no oil comes out of it. I try disconnecting cutterbar from cyl rod and then try retracting cyl.

Thanks Jim


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## krone.1 (Jul 28, 2013)

clowers said:


> Krone 1
> 
> I guess i am slow here, but is the inboard side drain plug to the right side of my sight glass when the cutter bar is in the vertical position. I found the the breather plug at the end of the bar under the swath board bracket. Reason being, I had oil build up and thought i had a leak.
> 
> I have changed the oil in the in the small gear box behind the drive line. No issues with that. Just issues with changing cutter bar oil. Thanks for a all your advice.


The gearbox with the sight glass is a separate geabox. All these are great questions and comments, I will try to get some photos today and post tonight to maybe help clear things up. Sorry! I would love to go on a rant about our operator manuals.


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## krone.1 (Jul 28, 2013)

Tx Jim said:


> krone.1
> 
> Cutter is an '09 model(sn 779xxx) that hasn't been used very much(green paint on turtles & some places underside of cutter bar). My friend that procured it for me stated it didn't raise to 90 degrees on previous owners tractor either. Yes I located vent but no oil comes out of it. I try disconnecting cutterbar from cyl rod and then try retracting cyl.
> 
> Thanks Jim


That year model should have the screw on end cap. It is easy to tell by looking, the end cap will be larger than the cylinder barrell o.d. The snap ring cylinders have the same diameter barrell all the way to the end.

I don't think it is anything mechanical. It something was binding, the cylinder would pull it in and the cutterbar wouldn't go down.


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## rajela (Feb 15, 2014)

Jim with the cutter bar folded in the transport position there should be a plug that you can access from the bottom side that will drain the bar. It will be located just below the gear box but on the bar in a horizontal position. Mine take an allen wrench to remove and is kind hard to reach. If you have a Krone parts schematic you can locate it from looking at the gear box end of the cutter bar.


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## Tx Jim (Jun 30, 2014)

Here's the parts catalog photos


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## Tx Jim (Jun 30, 2014)

krone I

I have a question about the slip clutch. My cutter SN 779XXX doesn't have the socket head screws that the operators manual refers to?? What do I need to do to slip clutch because I know they can stick from sitting.

Thanks,Jim


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## rajela (Feb 15, 2014)

Tx Jim said:


> Here's the parts catalog photos


In the second picture the #2 plug drains the bar but you can't access it unless the bar is in transport position. It looks like in the picture that it is on the gear box but it is really on the cutter bar.


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## krone.1 (Jul 28, 2013)

Here is a photo of the drain plug for the cutterbar. It is in the work position in the photo but will be easy to access when folded. There are some AM mowers that will not have this plug. If it doesn't, you can go directly to the other side of the cutterbar and remove the bottom socket head screw to drain the cutterbar. Or, on any AM mower you can drain out of the outboard vent plug. (sorry for the bad pic, the drain is right behind the hex head bolt).










Here is the check/ fill plug on the cutterbar. The picture in the op manual is an older photo and shows to be on the top of the cutterbar. It is now on the back of the cutterbar.










This is the angle gearbox that sits on top of the cutterbar. It is a separate gearbox. It doesn't share lubricant with the cutterbar. The bottom hole is the drain, the middle hole is a sight glass, and the top is the vent/fill plug. When level, lube should be visible in the sight glass.










This is the gearbox that goes right behind the PTO shaft. The top plug is fill, the middle is the check plug (lube at bottom of hole when the beam is level), and the bottom plug is the drain.


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## krone.1 (Jul 28, 2013)

Tx Jim said:


> krone I
> 
> I have a question about the slip clutch. My cutter SN 779XXX doesn't have the socket head screws that the operators manual refers to?? What do I need to do to slip clutch because I know they can stick from sitting.
> 
> Thanks,Jim


If it doesn't have the socket head screws, there should be 4 nuts 90 degrees apart on the back side of the clutch. You should *tighten* all 4 of these down to release the spring pressure on the clutch pack.


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## Tx Jim (Jun 30, 2014)

Krone 1

I tightened all 4 nuts & turned pto on but cutterbar still operated. I guess it will be OK with nuts tightened cut hay hoping stuck clutch plates will free up and cutterbar stop turning then loosen the four nuts????? I had already located all 3 oil check/fill locations and checked the oil in my new to me cutter but thanks for the photos & explanations.

Thanks,Jim


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