# Br740 slip clutch



## gearhartfarms82 (May 10, 2015)

has any one had trouble on a new holland br baler on the slip clutch shaft moving (pickup). If so what was the solution? Thanks


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## mike10 (May 29, 2011)

It probably is not the shaft but the slip clutch that is moving. There is a shoulder on the shaft to keep the slip clutch from moving. Occasionally the shoulder will break off and the clutch will slide to the inside. There is also a washer between the clutch and shoulder. At one time the washer was made of plastic, but as the slip clutch slipped it would wear away the plastic washer. The washer is now a metal washer. You can not see the washer until you disassemble the slip clutch assy because it sets in an offset in the sprocket hub. Remove the large nut and slide everything out to check if the shoulder is still present on the shaft. You probably will not see the washer but you can try and pick it out once it is off the large diameter of the shaft.


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## gearhartfarms82 (May 10, 2015)

Well this is the second Baylor I have fought just put new ratcheting Giles and the five new spring washers and never thought about checking the lip on the shaft Will be turning apart today and looking at it again seems to be a problem in the BR balers I can see. Seems like it is pulling the stuff for fingers to the driver side of the baler.


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## gearhartfarms82 (May 10, 2015)

Dang auto correct.


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## gearhartfarms82 (May 10, 2015)

Just an update. Found the issue. They expect 2 lock colars to hold all the tention fromThe slip clutch remedy is a spacer on the other side of the bearing against the stuffer arm to keep shaft from sliding through the lock colars


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## mike10 (May 29, 2011)

There is no pressure from the slip clutch on the bearings and collar since the clutch is not pushing or pulling against those parts. If your clutch is up against the bearing collar than the shoulder of the shaft is gone. In that case you do have pressure against the bearings. With the shoulder on the shaft intact the clutch is pressing against the shoulder and has no contact with the bearings. There are three bearings holding the stuffer in place, one on the right and two on the left. If the spacer works for you that is great, but you have not found the problem, but a solution is still a solution..


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## gearhartfarms82 (May 10, 2015)

Mike well i thought it wouldnt have pressure either but the problem inlize in the nut that keeps pressure. The clutch deads out against the bearing and cant move but with the tention of the nut on the springs its pulling the shaft out or away from the stuffer and is sliding into the cover on the pickup.


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## gearhartfarms82 (May 10, 2015)

I think that im running more tention on he clutch than i should be is part of the issue


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## mike10 (May 29, 2011)

If the slip clutch is slipping a lot the vibration from the ratcheting jaws may cause the shaft to move, it will certainly break the shoulder off the shaft, but no matter how tight you tighten the clutch the pressure is not against the bearings, at least as long as the shoulder is in place. On one baler where the customer was having slip clutch issues and the shaft moving from baling wet hay, we converted it to a radial pin clutch like the newer balers use. This took care of the pounding that was being inflicted by the jaw clutch and he has not had any more trouble.


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## gearhartfarms82 (May 10, 2015)

I wonder if there are different designs then. Ill get some picst and post. The back of the clutch is on washers and the sleave of the shaft is got no lip on it to stop clutch. So the sprocket can stay in place and shaft can slide to he drivers side but deffently cant go to the passenger. How hard is it to put the new style on? This is the second baler i have had this issue on


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## 8350HiTech (Jul 26, 2013)

mike10 said:


> If the slip clutch is slipping a lot the vibration from the ratcheting jaws may cause the shaft to move, it will certainly break the shoulder off the shaft, but no matter how tight you tighten the clutch the pressure is not against the bearings, at least as long as the shoulder is in place. On one baler where the customer was having slip clutch issues and the shaft moving from baling wet hay, we converted it to a radial pin clutch like the newer balers use. This took care of the pounding that was being inflicted by the jaw clutch and he has not had any more trouble.


Not to completely hijack, but if like to know about what that clutch conversion entails.


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## mike10 (May 29, 2011)

The short shaft on the left side which holds the slip clutch must be changed. The new shaft is splined for the radial pin clutch. Naturally the radial pin clutch is needed. The outer bearing is larger so you will need a bearing and flanges. You will need to rework the plate this bearing attaches to since the bearing is larger. You will also need two set screws to hold the clutch to the shaft.

So the parts you will need are the shaft, clutch, bearing, flanges, set screws and jam nuts.

Since the introduction of the radial pin clutch, for the later BR pickup, our slipping pickup clutch problem is a thing of the past.

If you have a chronic problem the conversion is well worth the money. Most times you will need to replace the shaft anyway because the shoulder is broken off the hub the driven gear of the slip clutch fits against. And if you need to replace the jaws the cost of those can be applied against the cost of the radial pin clutch.

This is not a NH fix, but one we tried on a problem unit. It has been running for three seasons now without any issue. Most balers will not experience a problem, but if you do a lot of wet hay you have probably seen the problem.


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## gearhartfarms82 (May 10, 2015)

Good to know. I don't do a lot of wet hay but i do run it to the max at all times. But on a side note is there anything besides traction tape to make the core forming a little easier? Thats my biggest issue over all with any of the br balers. Especially in supper dry conditions


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## mike10 (May 29, 2011)

When the hay is dry and/or short the core has a tendency to break up and either come out the front or out the top. The BR balers are no different then the other belt balers in this regard. There is a solution to the problem however, Slow your engine speed down and shift up in gears. This will allow more material to enter the core but with fewer turns of the core which keeps the core from breaking up. Once the core is formed, in most conditions, you can throttle up again. I have seen situations though where we had to keep the engine speed down throughout the bale formation, but we were able to bale it. In extreme conditions, baling in the evening will help also.


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## 8350HiTech (Jul 26, 2013)

mike10 said:


> The short shaft on the left side which holds the slip clutch must be changed. The new shaft is splined for the radial pin clutch. Naturally the radial pin clutch is needed. The outer bearing is larger so you will need a bearing and flanges. You will need to rework the plate this bearing attaches to since the bearing is larger. You will also need two set screws to hold the clutch to the shaft.
> 
> So the parts you will need are the shaft, clutch, bearing, flanges, set screws and jam nuts.
> 
> ...


I've had a chronic problem with the jaws on my 644. I'm always intrigued by a little "off label" remedy.


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## 8350HiTech (Jul 26, 2013)

gearhartfarms82 said:


> Good to know. I don't do a lot of wet hay but i do run it to the max at all times. But on a side note is there anything besides traction tape to make the core forming a little easier? Thats my biggest issue over all with any of the br balers. Especially in supper dry conditions


Mike10 is spot on with the technique change, but you can also start welding bar stock to some of your rolls. It's also a NH kit if you're in the mood to pay freight on something you could otherwise buy at your local steel supplier.


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## gearhartfarms82 (May 10, 2015)

Its got the bar kit on it now. And i do slow down engine speed. Normaly run 16-1800 any ways and i do like keeping it full but it seems that it still wants to throw it back out. I do like baling at night or tough to make it feed better just some days thats not any opption. What size of bar stock have u all ues. I was thinking of adding more or go to a larger size to make a little more agressive.


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## gearhartfarms82 (May 10, 2015)

And i guess do the newer wind guards help with starting the roll? Always wondered if that would help some too


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## mike10 (May 29, 2011)

The roller windguard does seem to feed better in heavy windrows.  The rpm I usually shoot for in dry conditions is in the 1300 range.  Field conditions are what dictates how you operate the baler and any rpm that works is what matters. It is just a matter of finding what works. I have been if fields where on one side you had to start the bale at low rpm and on the other side of the field you could run at pto speed to start the bale.


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## gearhartfarms82 (May 10, 2015)

mike10 said:


> There is no pressure from the slip clutch on the bearings and collar since the clutch is not pushing or pulling against those parts. If your clutch is up against the bearing collar than the shoulder of the shaft is gone. In that case you do have pressure against the bearings. With the shoulder on the shaft intact the clutch is pressing against the shoulder and has no contact with the bearings. There are three bearings holding the stuffer in place, one on the right and two on the left. If the spacer works for you that is great, but you have not found the problem, but a solution is still a solution..


On my clutch there is nothing to keep it from moving out towrd drivers side of baler.


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## gearhartfarms82 (May 10, 2015)

After all this i think the upgrade will be the way to go


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## mike10 (May 29, 2011)

All I can say is since NH went to the radial pin clutch the problems like you are having have been eliminated. You might check with your dealer on their experiences. The jaw clutch is ok until it slips one time and then it is loose and then it slips easier the next time and continues to degrade from there. This jaw clutch is used on many different machines from NH but it is the baler pickup clutch which looses tension after it slips. The constant pounding is probably what is moving the shaft.


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