# Insulated Garage door panels for shop walls



## PaMike

I am in the process of getting a farm shop built. I called a spray foam insulator today to get some prices on insulation. WE got to talking and he started talking about selling me some garage door panel seconds that he gets from a supplier. He can supply me with 16 ft long panels. Basically stand them on end and screw them to the wall.My ceiling will be 16 ft. After the panels are installed he spray foams the back of the panels prior to installing the exterior siding. He can supply the panels to me for $.60/sq ft. Tradional seconds of metal siding runs $.40/sqft. About the only downside I see is the panels are 1 3/8" thick so I will lose some space and there will need to be some additional trim work done around door and window openings. the other down side would be the panels are pretty much captive and would be difficult to replace.

I didnt confirm this but I assume the panels are different colors so they would also need to be painted.

What do you guys think?


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## Vol

Sounds like it would be doable....I guess it(using the panels) depends upon how particular you are about differences....can you live with the difference in the trim of doors and windows....or will that bug you a bit every time you look at it. Differences would definitely be more acceptable in barns and shops....but, if this shop is something you are going to have a lot of pride in and take satisfaction in showing it to your friends you might want to consider if this "savings" is really worth it over the long run.

Regards, Mike


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## PaMike

Vol said:


> Sounds like it would be doable....I guess it(using the panels) depends upon how particular you are about differences....can you live with the difference in the trim of doors and windows....or will that bug you a bit every time you look at it. Differences would definitely be more acceptable in barns and shops....but, if this shop is something you are going to have a lot of pride in and take satisfaction in showing it to your friends you might want to consider if this "savings" is really worth it over the long run.
> 
> Regards, Mike


I was thinking I could probably make it look better with the garage panels than with the regular tin siding.I hate all those ribs on tin siding.. I think the trim around the doors and windows could look fine, it would just take more work since the wall is thicker than a standard 2x6 wall...


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## endrow

We use our shop very hard. The insulation was that silver bubble insulation. The interior wall and ceiling is just various steel siding that we bought as seconds very cheaply


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## endrow

The interior wall and ceiling


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## PaMike

The thing I hate about the tin is trying to run air lines and electric lines on them. It never seams to work well...


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## glasswrongsize

how thick is the door panel metal vs siding? Will it hold up to a wrench throwing temper tantrum, or am I the only one that's ever had one of those?

73, Mark


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## PaMike

Panels are 1 3/8" thick. Not sure the thickness on metal siding. I think the ribs are close to 1" high..

I actually think the panels might be stronger than regular tin. I think the foam would support the metal and keep it from denting easily...not sure though...



glasswrongsize said:


> how thick is the door panel metal vs siding? Will it hold up to a wrench throwing temper tantrum, or am I the only one that's ever had one of those?
> 
> 73, Mark


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## mlappin

My buddy just built a new shop, 8 inches of fiberglass in the walls then he had perforated tin installed on the inside, literally no echo's from the perforations.


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## PaMike

I have heard of the perforated tin. Isnt it a good bit more expensive than standard tin?

I just really hate all the ridges in the tin. You cant push anything tight against the wall...


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## Farmineer95

If i was to do mine over I might put 1/4 osb under the steel. Spray foam tends to wrinkle corrugated steel. Man, you wanna talk about something that bugs you everytime you look at it....
Question I have is how do you fasten them? Are you face screwing them or making a strips and screwing between panels filling gap with foam in a can?
How are you keeping draft out?


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## slowzuki

Lot of folks use plywood or osb for the first 8 ft so conduit etc will lay flat.



PaMike said:


> I have heard of the perforated tin. Isnt it a good bit more expensive than standard tin?
> 
> I just really hate all the ridges in the tin. You cant push anything tight against the wall...


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## Cobercow

My neighbor had the mennos come renovate an old driving shed into a real dandy shop. They jacked the old wood frame shed up on steel posts and poured a concrete floor with pony walls.

The original wood siding was removed and they used (factory seconds) garage door panels screwed to the outside of the building (just like you would tin). These garage door panels are a uniform white dimple finish on one side (faced outward) and each panel fits together tongue and groove like. The doors, windows and 4 corners of the building have flashing for looks on the outside and spray foam (in these areas) for insulation on the inside. The roof got new tin, bat insulation and vapor barrier.

Yes the inside of the shop is a colorful collection of mis-match garage door patterns, but after a week you don't even notice. Very cost efficient shop to build, it is well insulated and looks great from the outside. He told me $25 grand for everything


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