# Changing the belt on a NH 479 Haybine



## downtownjr (Apr 8, 2008)

zzzz


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## KERAD30 (Jun 30, 2010)

Viewing this site yesterday as a visiter I ran across your blog,which was a big help in taking this apart but I`m stumped on the gear box end shaft. I have the four bolt`s off and removed the three bolts holding the end bearing which inturn removes the plate.The only coller I see is the one on the end of the shaft,not sure how to loosen and or remove it has no set screw that I can see.(Not sure if that`s the one your taking about.)Something still holding it from moving it the two inch`s to loop the new belt around.


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## downtownjr (Apr 8, 2008)

zzzz


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## bowlnchamp219 (Jun 17, 2010)

Wow, After i read this I DO NOT, I repeat DO NOT wanna change that belt. 
Jim Thanks for the Manual Printing it as we speak. 
Jonathan


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## angus 101 (Jun 26, 2011)

Good Afternoon,

We were searching for answers on how to change this monster of a belt. Monster is an understatement. When crawling under the machine inside the windrow shields how many bolts are there to remove? We are seeing 4 that are on the pulley wheel itself. Are we looking at the right bolts?

Please help us.


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## angus 101 (Jun 26, 2011)

We are having the same problems with trying to remove the collar. How many set screws are in it? We see 1. We have reoved it and something is still holding it and we can't seem to find out what it is. We don't see anything.


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## mike10 (May 29, 2011)

It looks impossible but is actually fairly easy to replace.

Remove the two drive chains and loosen belt idler,

Remove the shield over the slip clutch.

Remove the set screw holding the slip clutch to the gearbox.

Remove the slip clutch assy. If the slip clutch is stuck to the shaft you can remove the 8 bolts and springs and remove the pto drive shaft from the slip clutch. Just measure the spring length before removal so you can set it back where it was.

Go under the rear of the machine and up to your left and behind the rolls is a bearing. Just follow the gearbox output shaft to the inside of the machine. Remove the three 3/8" bolts that hold the bearing flanges to the plate. When you look at that plate you will see 4 1/2" nuts, DO NOT REMOVE THESE, just the three 3/8" nuts in the center of the plate. You do not need to remove the bearing, collar or set screw or anything else under there.

Remove the knife bolt.

Now look under the wobble box. On the bottom side of the box you will see three 1/2" bolts. Remove these three bolts. Those bolts go into the lower wobble box bearing mounting plate.

Under this mounting plate is a spacer about 1/8" thick. Remove this spacer.

Rotate the mounting plate 180 degrees so the narrow end is pointing out to the side.

While you are down there remove the belt from the upper pulley to gain slack.

Now remove the belt from the wobble box pullery and work out between the lower wobble box bearing mounting plate and the wobble box support. You will probably need to rotate the wobble box so the plate moves away from the mounting.

All you have to do now is remove the 3/8 bolts that hold the gearbox mounting plate, the big side plate, to the side of the machine. You removed two of those when your removed the shield over the slip clutch. Now you can pull the gearbox and plate away from the machine about 2 - 3" and you can remove the belt from the top drive.

Installation is the reverse.


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## Guest (Oct 5, 2012)

Mike 10's explanation is just excellent. On a 469 (the machine I have been using for 40 years) you don't have to mess with the slip clutch. Just take the PTO shaft off the front of the gear box. While you are at it, replace the little springs in the over-running clutch. They don't seem to lasy long. The first time I did this job I got a geuine NH belt. I could not get it on. I phoned the dealer. He said, bring it back and go to a parts store and get one an inch longer. Since then I have always installed a C 86.
This year my machine stared eating knife head bushings -really inconvenient and rather expensive. I replaced all the sections on the knife. It seems fine, but I saw that the new sections did not run as close to the guards as they should because of wear. I bought new guards but installing them will be a winter works project. The old guards have done 10 seasons. There is not a lot of wear considering the amount of work done. After 10 years, the spare guard is still in the parts box - we have some stones, but not one guard bent. They are FQ215DH guards. I bought them from a NH dealer. The parts guy suggested them rather than NH parts. This time, with the help of the internet, I found that they are sold by AGCO dealers so I bought a set from an AGCO dealer here in Manitoba. The season is all over. I have blown the dust and dirt out of the Haybine. After I pull the knife and apply some oil to the machine, I will pack it away in the shed. I will likely change the guards in the shed on a mild day late in the winter. A few tips: Drop the swath gate often and clean out the dust before it holds moisture and rusts out the gate. Park the machine in the shade so the rolls last longer. Keep the guards lined up so you can see down the whole length of the knife slot and the knife moves easily. Nobody should have to pull the knife with a come-along or a tractor.


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