# Soil test results



## FarmerCline (Oct 12, 2011)

Sent off soil samples of all of my fields trying to figure out why I'm having issues......notably severe lodging in alfalfa and stand loss in orchard. Also need to figure out where my issues are coming from since I'm planning on planting some of these fields into different mixtures of grasses and legumes in the next week and I hate to spend a lot money on seed and end up with the same results as in the past. Very frustrating considering I have spent a small fortune on amendments the past few years. I'm using a different lab than I have in the past based on the recommendation of an agronomist I have been working with. Just got the results back today and thought I would post on here to see if anyone had any input or thoughts.















Hayden


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## endrow (Dec 15, 2011)

When I was on a Notill Alliance board. An instructor at a class years ago talked about that exact problem roots weds×that would not take hold and the plant not wanting to absorb any nutrients.. he said excessive or improper tillage could cause low oxygen content in the soil and this could cause the problem Cline talked about.


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## Vol (Jul 5, 2009)

Magnesium level is VH....causes potash problems. Plants struggle with any type of dry period even as short as 2 weeks with increasing temps.

Regards, Mike

http://www.agtest.com/articles/highmg_soils.pdf


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## somedevildawg (Jun 20, 2011)

Didn't realize Mg would negatively effect potash levels....that would certainly mimic what he's seeing....


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## FarmerCline (Oct 12, 2011)

Vol said:


> Magnesium level is VH....causes potash problems. Plants struggle with any type of dry period even as short as 2 weeks with increasing temps.
> 
> Regards, Mike
> 
> http://www.agtest.com/articles/highmg_soils.pdf


 From what that article said it does sounds like that could be a big part of my issue. Unfortunately it doesn't sound like an easy fix since it said higher applications of potash could make matters even worse. Manure isn't an option due to the fact I'm farming in town so I guess that leaves gypsum but it sounds like that could be a slow fix. Strange though that the soil test did not recommend gypsum or address the magnesium level. I also have to be careful of how much I spend on this ground and how long it takes to get a return since this is all rented ground with short term leases.


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## Vol (Jul 5, 2009)

FarmerCline said:


> I also have to be careful of how much I spend on this ground and how long it takes to get a return since this is all rented ground with short term leases.


I am not so sure if it wouldn't be best to just move on as soon as your lease is up. Maybe grow Timothy or Oats on it....something cheaper to get by on.

Regards, Mike


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## FarmerCline (Oct 12, 2011)

Vol said:


> I am not so sure if it wouldn't be best to just move on as soon as your lease is up. Maybe grow Timothy or Oats on it....something cheaper to get by on.
> 
> Regards, Mike


 I agree with that except there is no where else to move on to.....except for one field that I have soybeans on the above soil tests are of all my fields I have. Except for one place my leases are only 1-2 years each.

Im starting to kind of regret buying all this seed to plant this fall as I just don't have a good feeling now. I was going to be planting some Timothy but now that I think about it I had some stunting issues the last time I grew it a few years ago. I blamed it on too dry or possibly rust mites but now I'm starting to wonder it it wasn't a soil issue.


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## Bonfire (Oct 21, 2012)

I think the main enemy of Orchard Grass is a diskbine.


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## reede (May 17, 2010)

Gypsum would address the Ca/Mg ratio, without affecting the pH. When I first added Gypsum, my Mg saturation levels went from around 20% down to 12-15 range. Gypsum also floculates the soil, which will help with water and air infiltration. Don't know that it is the solution, but might help. Cliffside power plant is about an hour or so away, I think?


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## FarmerCline (Oct 12, 2011)

Bonfire said:


> I think the main enemy of Orchard Grass is a diskbine.


 Its not that because unfortunately I'm still cutting with a sickle haybine at 4" stubble height.


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## FarmerCline (Oct 12, 2011)

reede said:


> Gypsum would address the Ca/Mg ratio, without affecting the pH. When I first added Gypsum, my Mg saturation levels went from around 20% down to 12-15 range. Gypsum also floculates the soil, which will help with water and air infiltration. Don't know that it is the solution, but might help. Cliffside power plant is about an hour or so away, I think?


 The agronomist I have been talking too also suggested gypsum.....I was thinking about trying some anyways this fall. I believe you may know the agronomist I'm working with.....your name came up when we were talking about lespedeza. How much gypsum did you use and how long did it take to see results?


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## reede (May 17, 2010)

I applied 2 tons/acre July 2015, and have seen results in the lespedeza fields starting last year. The other fields have all been in a state of flux, one bermuda field had alfalfa added last fall, sprigged another this spring, and just started killing yet another to turn it into a lespedeza field.

So, lespedeza is all that I really have that has been stable through the time frame. But, on that, I went from an average RFV of probably 125, with nothing ever above 150, to having everything(except one batch that got washed a couple of times) be over 150 the last 2 years. Just topped 200 for the first time on my most recent fall cutting.

Now, your agronomist also got me pointed down the line of using boron and moly on the legumes, and I've added wood ash and K as well along in the process. So, as to which one caused the improvements, I couldn't say. Of course, each of the vendors would say that it is their product. I'm just trying to make sure that there isn't any reason for it to fail, at least of the ones that I have control of. Plenty that I don't.


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## FarmerCline (Oct 12, 2011)

reede said:


> I applied 2 tons/acre July 2015, and have seen results in the lespedeza fields starting last year. The other fields have all been in a state of flux, one bermuda field had alfalfa added last fall, sprigged another this spring, and just started killing yet another to turn it into a lespedeza field.
> So, lespedeza is all that I really have that has been stable through the time frame. But, on that, I went from an average RFV of probably 125, with nothing ever above 150, to having everything(except one batch that got washed a couple of times) be over 150 the last 2 years. Just topped 200 for the first time on my most recent fall cutting.
> 
> Now, your agronomist also got me pointed down the line of using boron and moly on the legumes, and I've added wood ash and K as well along in the process. So, as to which one caused the improvements, I couldn't say. Of course, each of the vendors would say that it is their product. I'm just trying to make sure that there isn't any reason for it to fail, at least of the ones that I have control of. Plenty that I don't.


 I was going to apply the gypsum this fall so it sounds like I should the see a response by next summer? I was only going to apply 1/2-1 ton per acre though. Hopefully it will help to lower the magnesium levels as well as loosening up the ground some. Yep he also suggested using a pound or two of boron per acre even on the grass fields. Didn't mention moly though. Also said that I should try having the P treated with avail to make it more available to the plant. But that K was most likely my biggest issue and limiting factor.

I know part of the reason the magnesium levels are so high is from all the dolomtic lime I have had spread the past few years to get the ph up to where it is. Dolomitic lime is the only lime that is typically used or available here. As of last year though I became aware that my magnesium levels were too high so I switched to using calcitic lime.....it is considerably more expensive though since it has to be trucked in from Georgia. He said that this was good and from now on I needed to continue using the calcitic lime rather than dolomite when I needed to apply lime.


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## reede (May 17, 2010)

With the Mg as high as it is, I would lean towards a ton to the acre. The way it was explained to me, the ratio of Ca to Mg is important, as well as the bulk amount. Upping the Ca will lower the relative amount of Mg, and gypsum will be more soluble than carbonate(calcitic lime). Though the depth of my knowledge in this area gets thin pretty quickly.


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## shortrow2 (Sep 25, 2017)

FarmerCline said:


> Its not that because unfortunately I'm still cutting with a sickle haybine at 4" stubble height.


Glad to hear I'm not alone.


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## shortrow2 (Sep 25, 2017)

FarmerCline said:


> Its not that because unfortunately I'm still cutting with a sickle haybine at 4" stubble height.


Keep the sections sharp and let it eat.


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## rjmoses (Apr 4, 2010)

Bonfire said:


> I think the main enemy of Orchard Grass is a diskbine.


I'm curious why you say that? I've always considered the main enemies 1) cutting too short and 2) traffic.

Ralph


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