# NH 273 Hay baler



## dan1795

I have a NH 273 haybaler that is creating a serious problem for me. The baler keeps breaking shear pins on the flywheel. I have had a $300.00 service call from the local farm machinery shop, no luck there, I have replaced the brake pads on the twister/knotter, the baler is in time but after I start baling in the field, the shear pin breaks after about every 5 or 6 bales. I winter about 20 cows and I am running out of time to get the hay in the barn. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thank you


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## Skip3

Field isn't to bumpy is it ??? My 24t will do that if it is bumpy and I go to fast . I just make the row bigger and slow down....


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## Haymike56

The next time it shears a pin get off and look under the plunger area and see if the plunger stop is engaging the plunger arm. You said that you put new brakes on the knotters mabe they are not tight enough and are letting the needle arm slide down slightly in bumpy ground as Skip was saying.


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## sedurbin

In addition to what the other guys have said, Check the Hay Dogs to make sure they are free. If they are stuck it will let hay expand back toward the plunger and can cause it to shear the pin. Should the Dogs be stuck, spray some penetrating oil on them and tap them around with a hammer


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## kyfred

On our 273 if the hay windrow was heavy we would have to drive [slower] and some green or wet hay would break the shear pins also. If we would shut down the pto in a sharp turn to save the universal joints on the pto shaft and the thing start to tie before the baler shut completely down it would break shear pin also. We have had the baler to start to tie before the baler shut down completely when we were switching wagons and it would break the shear pin when we would start the baler up again. 
Also dark fast approaching rain clouds would cause shear pins to break on our NH273.


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## Haymike56

I like Kyfred's last explaination LOL


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## dan1795

kyfred said:


> On our 273 if the hay windrow was heavy we would have to drive [slower] and some green or wet hay would break the shear pins also. If we would shut down the pto in a sharp turn to save the universal joints on the pto shaft and the thing start to tie before the baler shut completely down it would break shear pin also. We have had the baler to start to tie before the baler shut down completely when we were switching wagons and it would break the shear pin when we would start the baler up again.
> Also dark fast approaching rain clouds would cause shear pins to break on our NH273.


All of the above are correct and reasonable causes. I drive extremely slow and use the hand clutch as much as possible. I also disengage the PTO on each turn to take the strain off of the u-joints. Thank you for the "heads up" on turning.


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## dan1795

Thank you for your response. I am not familar with the term "hay dogs". Are you referring to the 3 pairs of aluminum spikes that push the hay into the chamber? These spikes have return springs on them and are all in working order. Please advise, as this may be my problem. Thanks.


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## dan1795

Thank you, The same ground is bumpy but it has been bumpy for the last 25 years. I'm going as slow as possible and using the hand clutch on the wind rows. The owners manual directs you to tighten the knotter brake springs to 1 5/8" width on the knotter brake. I went tighter after several more pins sheared. Not sure how tight I can go.


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## kyfred

I remember dad having to replace the knifeblade on the plunger. I think it was on the plunger, I remember the plunger had to come out. We don't use the baler much. We roll our hay now and when we do squarebale, [so far] we haven't had any trouble. It was making a sloppy looking bale and would break shear bolts. Might see if the knife in the bale chamber is sharp. Something could have went through there and damaged it. The hay dogs are located under your knotters where the plunger pushes the hay to form the bale. They hold each fleece or flake of hay in place for the plunger to push the next hay in place so it does not back up to block the incoming hay. I think there are 2 on top and 2 on the bottom on the 273. They are spring loaded. If any of the springs are broke the bale will not look right and can cause the hay to back up when the plunger retreats blocking incoming hay. On our baler the dad always kept extra springs in the garage for when they broke. 
That could be a possibility that sedurbin mentioned. Haydogs could be stuck or springs broke also.


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## barnrope

dan1795 said:


> All of the above are correct and reasonable causes. I drive extremely slow and use the hand clutch as much as possible. I also disengage the PTO on each turn to take the strain off of the u-joints. Thank you for the "heads up" on turning.


You shouldn't have to disengage the PTO on turns. Sounds like you are really babying her along. Something is not right. The 273 is a good baler and should chug right along if it is in decent shape. You must have an old Allis in front of her if you have a hand clutch. Iv'e baled a lot of bales with a NH 270 and an Allis WD 45.


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## dan1795

Thank you. I guess we're almost neighbors, I see that you are located in N. Ky. I'm in Cincinnati. I'll look for the hay dogs. Wish me luck as I cut hay this evening. The weatherman said rain all week so I didn't cut and NO RAIN. They say no rain through Sunday, It'll rain for sure.


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## Cjk

I had similar issues with my 273 and they went away after finally breaking the knotter drive shear bolt. It was so worn out that it was allowing the timing to get out of whack. I put in a new knotter drive bolt and haven't broken a flywheel shear bolt in years. Check to see if your knotter drive shear bolt is loose, worn or bent.


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