# What Variety of Orchadgrass to Seed



## GPhillips (Oct 11, 2008)

I'm starting to do some planning for the fall and I need to seed 35-40 acres back into hay. In the web research that I have done and with Dad and I talking to some friends at the local CPS we are really considering going with orchard grass, maybe an orchard grass/timothy mix. In searching through data on the internet all I have been able to do is confuse myself on which variety of orchard grass I should go with. Originally I was thinking about Persist, but it seems that it might be too early maturing if I wanted to mix in any timothy. So which variety of orchard grass would you recommend? And as a secondary question what variety of timothy would you recommend to go with it? Also what seeding rates would you recommend?

We are located in Western Kentucky and the ground is slightly rolling. It has been row cropped for the last three years and currently has corn on it. As soon as the corn comes off, I will work the ground to bust up the corn stalks, probably using a disc and unverferth double rolling harrow. I will be renting a seed drill from CPS to drill the seed with. My plan as been to cross drill the seed to make sure that I get a good, solid coverage.

Any thoughts about these plans? Please let me know if you see something that is a concern you or if you thinking I'm making a mistake anywhere.

Thanks again

Greg


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## Vol (Jul 5, 2009)

GPhillips said:


> I'm starting to do some planning for the fall and I need to seed 35-40 acres back into hay. In the web research that I have done and with Dad and I talking to some friends at the local CPS we are really considering going with orchard grass, maybe an orchard grass/timothy mix. In searching through data on the internet all I have been able to do is confuse myself on which variety of orchard grass I should go with. Originally I was thinking about Persist, but it seems that it might be too early maturing if I wanted to mix in any timothy. So which variety of orchard grass would you recommend? And as a secondary question what variety of timothy would you recommend to go with it? Also what seeding rates would you recommend?
> 
> We are located in Western Kentucky and the ground is slightly rolling. It has been row cropped for the last three years and currently has corn on it. As soon as the corn comes off, I will work the ground to bust up the corn stalks, probably using a disc and unverferth double rolling harrow. I will be renting a seed drill from CPS to drill the seed with. My plan as been to cross drill the seed to make sure that I get a good, solid coverage.
> 
> ...


I believe on a field that size that I would pick 3-4 varieties of Orchard grass and mix them....make sure that what seed you get has no "Quack" grass listed on the label....there is a lot of seed that comes out of Oregon and it seems that certain areas are plagued with Quack out there.

I might hold off on the Timothy a year or not put more than 2 pounds of Tim to the acre because it will germinate a full week or more ahead of the Orchard and it is very aggressive in early growth and can out compete the Orchard if sown somewhat equally.

And as you know, check your corn chems for replant timing on grasses.

Regards, Mike


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## endrow (Dec 15, 2011)

Here in central Pennsylvania I like a variety call Tekapo. It has a low crown


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## endrow (Dec 15, 2011)

Another mistake anyway Tekapo has a low crown will stand shortcutting and it is very durable and also has avairy


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## rjmoses (Apr 4, 2010)

I've planted Potomac, Crown Royale, Tekapo and Warrior II.

The Potomac matures a little early (May 15th) and is subject to rust.

The Crowne Royale stand did not get established--I don't think it was the seed that caused the problem.

The Tekapo came up nicely and seems to yield the better than Potomac. Matures about 2 weeks later. A little leafier than Potomac

Last year, I planted Warrior II under winter wheat (75% rate on the wheat) after beans. Beans came off a little late. Took the wheat and straw off this June. Stand looks great and I think I'll get a cutting yet this year, but the wheat stubble will make it better suited for calving hay. Here's what the field looks like today. This summer's growing weather has really helped--OG has not gone dormant even though it has be hotter that Hades.
























By all means, check what chemicals were used on the corn. Some have residual effects that can last up to several years.

Ralph


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## endrow (Dec 15, 2011)

Seems in Orchard Grass at least on this site we always argue about days to maturity, some spend a lifetime looking for the longest maturity. Thought process being better hay making weathet for first cutting. I think the key to profitability and Orchard Grass is getting two cuttings instead of one before the hot weather hits that requires a somewhat shorter to at least medium length days to heading variety


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## rjmoses (Apr 4, 2010)

It's a balancing act between days to maturity, weather and additional cuttings.

This year weather and maturity coincided extremely well. Last year S-T-A-N-K! The last 3-4 years, I've only gotten one cutting from my OG. This year, I'm looking for two. If I can't get the 2nd cutting by Sept. 1st, I don't bother because, by then, it's almost impossible to get it dry because of heavy dews.

Overall, I notice a big weather shift between the middle of May and the middle of June. And I think it goes along with the longer days.

Ralph

I'm not saying it's humid here, but I've started using a rain gauge to measure my humidity.


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## Vol (Jul 5, 2009)

I agree with most of what has been stated.....and that is why I recommended a mix of varieties. That way you can spread the various risks out and still get a crop that has pretty green growth among it whether you had to wait or not wait on a harvest window because nice early season weather or not so nice early season weather. When you have both early and late varieties it just looks better in the bale in tougher harvest years.

Regards, Mike


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## Hayman1 (Jul 6, 2013)

endrow said:


> Here in central Pennsylvania I like a variety call Tekapo. It has a low crown


Count me in the tekapo crowd too. I mixed it at 1/3 to 2/3 extend which is a late maturing leafy og @ 25#/ac. super leafy first cutting. I don't think it is going to compete tonnage wise with Potomac that is cut late and is all stems, but as many have pointed out this year, horse customers are increasingly demanding or at least looking strongly for really leafy and not stemmy hay and this mix fits that well. Won't know full season tonnage until next year as it was planted last Sept 1 and overseeded n march to infill. Roots are still developing this year.


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## r82230 (Mar 1, 2016)

GPhillips said:


> Any thoughts about these plans? Please let me know if you see something that is a concern you or if you thinking I'm making a mistake anywhere.
> 
> Thanks again
> 
> Greg


Greg, do not know your area, but will the corn be off, giving you time to till and plant? And have you tested your soil recently? The cross planting is very desirable in my area, hopefully it is in your area too.

Larry


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## timberjackrob (Feb 16, 2015)

ive had good luck with benchmark variety from southern states store.


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## Cmm (Jun 5, 2016)

I'm in east tn

The key guys to whatever brand you plant is to get that early cut.
I get my first cut of Potomac last week of April to first week of May.
This yr 92 bales per ac (45lb bale)
15.5 % protein

I get my second 30 days later and I cut 38 bales per ac 18% protein
In a normal year I get 4 cuts

Pic below will show how much growth I had in 30 days and how leafy it was
First cut is not stemmy either but you have to get it in early boot

I use Potomac and have had great success
Gonna try tekapo this yr you guys have sold me


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## GPhillips (Oct 11, 2008)

r82230 said:


> Greg, do not know your area, but will the corn be off, giving you time to till and plant? And have you tested your soil recently? The cross planting is very desirable in my area, hopefully it is in your area too.
> 
> Larry


As long as we have a somewhat typical year I should have enough time to till and plant. I hope to be pulling in the field to do the prep as they are pulling out with the combine, and the drill will be right behind that. The soil was tested this year and is in really good shape nutrient wise. I will probably spin on some N at seeding, then check it again in the spring and add whatever is needed again.


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## RockyHill (Apr 24, 2013)

We have a combination, not really other than what we could get at different times. Persist, Benchmark Plus, and Potamic.

We applied potash based on what we were planning on harvesting and that made a big improvement. Of course this year has been the worst ever for us weather-wise but have a good stand of OG.

Shelia


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## Rodney R (Jun 11, 2008)

Is timothy grown that far south? Will it be able to handle the warmer winter? Orchardgrass will last nearly forever here, but timothy 3-5 years, and the maturity date do not match up at all. Having a mix like that means that the o-grass will be too ripe when the timothy finally gets ripe. I'm not sure I'd bother with trying to mix them. We had one field here like that, and I used roundup to solve that problem.

Rodney


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## bunkhouse (Aug 10, 2013)

Extend orchard grass here. Does great in winter and in the summer heat. 2 tons per. acre after 3 years established and cross seeding fields.

Regards

John


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