# Introducing myself & my product I'm manufacturing for round balers



## Qwicktie Guys

My name is Pat and I have been working on manufacturing round baler attatchments for the past couple years. I take the existing 2 twine arms off and add 4 twine arms to create a faster tie time to keep up with net wrap or in general to decrease the amount of time you spend in the field. Please visit my profile to see pictures or contact me if you are interested and have any questions. Thanks.


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## haybaler101

just use net wrap, all problems solved.


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## jpritchett

Hey Pat Thank you for joining the website. I was hopeing you would join after we talked at Dakota Fest. I think your attachment is a great idea for guys who havn't switched over to netwrap. I wish you would of came out with it back when we twined are hay. We would have surely put it on are balers. Not everyone can afford a netwrap attachment on there baler and with your Quicktie set up you can twine a bale in the same speed as netwrapping a bale. You can cut down your twineing time from 30-40 seconds down to around 8 seconds. This unit will pay for itself. It costs less than 2000 dollars and its simple to put on your baler.


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## swmnhay

Pat welcome to Hay Talk.Also met you at Dakotafest.

Your attachment looks like a good idea for guys that don't want to use net.So does it only work on JD balers?



> just use net wrap, all problems solved.


Some guys out west(Dakotas,Montana,Wy) don't like net or plastic twine.They use sisal or biodegradable plastic twine.Use bale beds to feed cows unrolling them in pasture.Stack round bales in stacks in fields and move them with live bed trailers.What works for them wouldn't work here very well.They don't get near the rain usualy out there.


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## mlappin

Agree with swmnhay, twine wrapped bales do have their place. Depending on the winter, I think twine can sometimes be easier to get off the bales than net. However, with our 40" of rain a year here, twine wrapped bales don't last long sitting outside.

I still have the occasional person that when custom baling they wanted twine, so I charged _more_ for wrapping with twine as I couldn't make as many bales an hour. I traded balers this spring and first thing I did was remove the twine wrap assembly and jsut tell em it's a net only baler, problem solved.


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## Ryan Smith

I ordred, paid and cheque was cashed in March 2011 for a Qwicktie in South Dakota. Pat nore Cheryl will return phone calls, or provide a tracking number, however I have been told its been sent. Has anyone else had this trouble? Is this company legit or have I been scammed?


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## Supa Dexta

Gonna bump this up - has anyone ever used or bought this product? I would like to make up one if I could, as it seems the company no longer does.


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## IHCman

I never tried it but was told that on the Vermeer M and Super M balers you could run additional twine through the extra holes on the twine arm and increase the speed of it. You'd have two twine coming out each side of baler. I never tried it as I was worried about tangles but I think it would work and wouldn't take a lot of modification to do.


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## swmnhay

IHCman said:


> I never tried it but was told that on the Vermeer M and Super M balers you could run additional twine through the extra holes on the twine arm and increase the speed of it. You'd have two twine coming out each side of baler. I never tried it as I was worried about tangles but I think it would work and wouldn't take a lot of modification to do.


I ran 4 twine in my M baler.Always used 110 plastic and very seldom had it tangle,maybe once per 500 bales.I just ran off 2 balls on each side so you had 2 twine running together threw the guides.Ran the twine in the #1-3-5-7 holes in the twine arm.Ended up with twine on the bale every 1.5".


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## Supa Dexta

How fast did this get your tie time down to?


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## swmnhay

Supa Dexta said:


> How fast did this get your tie time down to?


Do'nt recall exactly but I'd guess trim off 10 sec per bale?I put alot of twine on and no one complianed about not haveing enough on,one said I put to much on.It sheds water better with more twine on.

The last few balers I've had are netwrap only balers.


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## JMT

Problem I see with running more strings to cut way down on tie time is you will end up with multiple loose ends and fewer wraps per string. Sounds like a good way to make a bale that would shed strings and fall apart.


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## swmnhay

JMT said:


> Problem I see with running more strings to cut way down on tie time is you will end up with multiple loose ends and fewer wraps per string. Sounds like a good way to make a bale that would shed strings and fall apart.


It didn't happen that way with my Vermeer M,which is different then the quick tie.With the vermeeer the start of the strings was near the center of the bale and then went to on end and wraped a coiple wraps and went to other end so the start of the string ends were overlapped and had 0 loose ends there.On the end where it cut of after 2 wraps you ended up with 8 strings in one spot and it tied it self together pretty good.

Bales I see falling apart are guys that are cheap on the twine and space it a ft apart and if you have 1 broke string now you have 2ft with no string and water soaking in a loose bale.The same guys will complain about weather loss with rd bales.Put some twine on it!!!!


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## slowzuki

It's again funny to think folks can store hay outside in some places. Would be a nice option to have here.


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## swmnhay

slowzuki said:


> It's again funny to think folks can store hay outside in some places. Would be a nice option to have here.


There is a lot of ways to store hay outside outside that reduce damage.It all starts with makeing a nice tight bale that sheds water.


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## slowzuki

It's just too wet here. They start growing mushrooms quite quickly.

We tried leaving 6 on a rock pad last year, 3 tight eye to eye, 3 spaced, they were baled in early July, when we went to feed in October they were black with mold and it went almost 12" inside. The spaced bales were black on the faces too, both had little mushrooms growing on them too, slimy goopy mess under the bales where it sat on the rocks.


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## JMT

swmnhay said:


> It didn't happen that way with my Vermeer M,which is different then the quick tie.With the vermeeer the start of the strings was near the center of the bale and then went to on end and wraped a coiple wraps and went to other end so the start of the string ends were overlapped and had 0 loose ends there.On the end where it cut of after 2 wraps you ended up with 8 strings in one spot and it tied it self together pretty good.Bales I see falling apart are guys that are cheap on the twine and space it a ft apart and if you have 1 broke string now you have 2ft with no string and water soaking in a loose bale.The same guys will complain about weather loss with rd bales.Put some twine on it!!!!


You were definitely putting enough string/wraps on. But, if someone is adding strings to really rival net wrap time, they won't have enough wraps per string. Guess it depends on if your adding strings to increase coverage and water shedding ability or adding strings to minimize wrapping speed.


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## luke strawwalker

swmnhay said:


> There is a lot of ways to store hay outside outside that reduce damage.It all starts with makeing a nice tight bale that sheds water.


Also helps to know where and how to store round bales outside...

My former boss at the bus barn used to store his round bales on low ground under some trees... in a rainstorm they'd get soaking wet, as all the rain that falls on the tree eventually works its way down and soaks whatever is underneath it... in REALLY heavy rains the low ground would also have standing water up to about 3-4 inches deep, with the bales sitting in it like shredded wheat bales in a bowl of milk... Under a tree, the wind and sun exposure that eventually dries off the surface of the bales after a rain is blocked by the tree, so the bales stay wet a LOT longer, which is what REALLY does the harm.

Then there's the guys that don't know how to properly stack round bales... instead of putting them flat end to flat end, like a tube wrapper line would do, the stack them side by side with the SIDES TOUCHING, creating a "funnel" as the water is shed off the bales in a rain, the water runs down between them where they touch, and keep the sides of the bales sopping wet, and they cannot dry out due to limited sun exposure and little/no airflow, causing the sides of the bales to rot. End to end, if the bales are tight and square and pushed against each other tight, the ends will practically "seal off" and prevent any water from getting between them. Bales with sloppy shoulders, "barrel" shaped bales, or cone-shaped bales don't seal off properly, but the real fix is to make good, tight, regular shaped cylindrical bales.

Ground moisture wicking is another big issue, and why it's ALWAYS a bad idea to store hay on low ground. Some soil types, like our heavy clay, is a lot worse for ground wicking than say sand. Anything you can do to get the bales up off the ground will help prevent or reduce losses from moisture wicking into the bottom of the bales. I used to get "broken" pallets and leftover pallets from the school I worked for, just to haul them off, and used to stack my round bales on them, which reduced ground wicking damage by at least 90%. Of course the wooden pallets wouldn't last but about a year, maybe two, before they were themselves rotting to oblivion. Now we use old light poles laid side by side about 2-3 feet apart, to keep the bales up off the ground and prevent wicking. Works like a champ.

Hard to believe how many guys I see that STILL don't have a clue how to properly store round bales outside, though... and probably 80-90% of the round bales are stored outside in this area...

Later! OL JR


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## mlappin

I hear that.

Done the pallet thing as well. Works okay, can s*ck in the winter when the pallets freeze down.

My buddy that I just delivered three hundred bales too had some sand so light he could stack on it with no rock or pallets, cover the whole thing with a tarp and maybe loose 1/2" on the bottom.

Have an idjit down the road from one of my larger hay fields, every year he stacks em 3-2-1, a couple rows even of 3-2-1, then never covers it, then spends weeks in the spring with an old manure spreader spreading rotten hay and twine all over his pastures. That is any twine that doesn't get wrapped around the rear beater.


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## luke strawwalker

mlappin said:


> I hear that.
> 
> Done the pallet thing as well. Works okay, can s*ck in the winter when the pallets freeze down.
> 
> My buddy that I just delivered three hundred bales too had some sand so light he could stack on it with no rock or pallets, cover the whole thing with a tarp and maybe loose 1/2" on the bottom.
> 
> Have an idjit down the road from one of my larger hay fields, every year he stacks em 3-2-1, a couple rows even of 3-2-1, then never covers it, then spends weeks in the spring with an old manure spreader spreading rotten hay and twine all over his pastures. That is any twine that doesn't get wrapped around the rear beater.


Yes, I've seen some idgits do that around here too... and in this are where we get 46 inches of rain in a NORMAL year (this year were there already!) and yet some morons still stack 2-1 or 3-2-1 on top of each other... bottom rows are basically trash... they melt like sugar cubes in a cup of hot coffee.

Takes all kinds I guess...

Later! OL JR


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## mlappin

Normal here is 40" for rain.


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## ARD Farm

Thats what I have hoop buildings for.... round bale storage.


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