# upgraded to JD 6300 cab tractor ? about 3pt stabalization



## kkcattle (Apr 9, 2016)

I upgraded from an open station tractor to this jd 6300 cab tractor. The 3 pt is missing the lower sway blocks. But I don't really see how they would help control sway when attached to a disc mower. My other tractor had telescoping arms to stabilize the arms. Any comments or suggestions. Thanks roger


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## 8350HiTech (Jul 26, 2013)

If you already know you like them, buy telescoping arms. I made that conversion on another tractor.I bought aftermarket arms for $140 for the pair, I think. Or you could go hunting for something you like in a salvage yard.


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## 8350HiTech (Jul 26, 2013)

http://www.haytalk.com/forums/topic/25428-permanent-fix-for-clanging-lift-arms/


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## PaCustomBaler (Nov 29, 2010)

Those telescoping arms are the shit. Buy them, because I've yet to see anything come closer to them when it comes to stabilizing the 3pt.

Some of our NH tractors have turn-buckle drag links and some have telescoping drag links. Both do a great job compared to any JD rig 3pt I've seen. Blocks or not.


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## Vol (Jul 5, 2009)

PaCustomBaler said:


> Both do a great job compared to any JD rig 3pt I've seen. Blocks or not.


The later model JD's have very nice telescoping/adjustable arms that you can either pin in a sway hole or pin in a locking hole. They are very nice and very heavily made. I can take a pic if anyone would want to see them? They are pricey.

Regards, Mike


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## Tx Jim (Jun 30, 2014)

My vote is to add telescoping sway bars. I really like the sway bars on my Kubota tractor.


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## deadmoose (Oct 30, 2011)

Vol said:


> The later model JD's have very nice telescoping/adjustable arms that you can either pin in a sway hole or pin in a locking hole. They are very nice and very heavily made. I can take a pic if anyone would want to see them? They are pricey.
> 
> Regards, Mike


Would appreciate it. I am guessing you have basically the same as my Kubota's?


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## mlappin (Jun 25, 2009)

All our tractors use the blocks, all have quick hitches, if we have anything goofy like going from a cat 2 wide to a cat 3 we have a spare quick hitch around for that, the few things that are cat one or cat two narrow I have smaller tractors for, anything I don't have a quick hitch on the arms are usually off most of the time for making hay, all hitch equipment, no two point.


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## luke strawwalker (Jul 31, 2014)

Always wanted a quick hitch, but with our antiquated machinery (we were still farming with a lot of stuff older than I was, and I'm 45) a lot of that stuff had "non-standard hitches", meaning it might be cat 2 pin size, but the width between the bottom pins, or the height of the top link tower, was too far off to work with a quick hitch. I don't know exactly when they "standardized" the measurements of the various categories of hitching systems, but evidently it was after a lot of our stuff was built, or else a lot of shortline manufacturers of equipment didn't particularly follow the standards.

I like the looks of those "Pat's Easy Change" hooks that pin over the standard ends of your 3 point lower links and turn them into Euro-style hooks, but wonder about the changes in the length of the arm (since they pin to the standard arm over the regular ball end, and have the hook sticking out behind that) and the extra length of the turnbuckle top link and all of that. If I ever get a mower on a caddy, I won't have to worry about it because I'll eliminate about 3/4 of my hitching problems.

Later! OL J R : )


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## Teslan (Aug 20, 2011)

luke strawwalker said:


> Always wanted a quick hitch, but with our antiquated machinery (we were still farming with a lot of stuff older than I was, and I'm 45) a lot of that stuff had "non-standard hitches", meaning it might be cat 2 pin size, but the width between the bottom pins, or the height of the top link tower, was too far off to work with a quick hitch. I don't know exactly when they "standardized" the measurements of the various categories of hitching systems, but evidently it was after a lot of our stuff was built, or else a lot of shortline manufacturers of equipment didn't particularly follow the standards.
> 
> I like the looks of those "Pat's Easy Change" hooks that pin over the standard ends of your 3 point lower links and turn them into Euro-style hooks, but wonder about the changes in the length of the arm (since they pin to the standard arm over the regular ball end, and have the hook sticking out behind that) and the extra length of the turnbuckle top link and all of that. If I ever get a mower on a caddy, I won't have to worry about it because I'll eliminate about 3/4 of my hitching problems.
> 
> Later! OL J R : )


I don't think you are missing much not having a quick hitch. In my few dealings with a quick hitch it was anything but quick. Ended up taking off the "slow annoying and wouldn't fit anything" hitch. Plus they are heavy. Just my opinion based on my few experiences.

And in comment about the sway blocking. I never understood why JD didn't have them. Our JD 7810 doesn't even have them. So I just have some twine to keep them from banging into the tires. Baler twine! I take the 3 points all the way off when hooked to the 3x3 baler. While our old International 1086 and MF 275 had them.. All our NH tractors have had them. Our MF 6290 has them, but they aren't as good as the NH ones.


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## luke strawwalker (Jul 31, 2014)

Teslan said:


> I don't think you are missing much not having a quick hitch. In my few dealings with a quick hitch it was anything but quick. Ended up taking off the "slow annoying and wouldn't fit anything" hitch. Plus they are heavy. Just my opinion based on my few experiences.
> 
> And in comment about the sway blocking. I never understood why JD didn't have them. Our JD 7810 doesn't even have them. So I just have some twine to keep them from banging into the tires. Baler twine! I take the 3 points all the way off when hooked to the 3x3 baler. While our old International 1086 and MF 275 had them.. All our NH tractors have had them. Our MF 6290 has them, but they aren't as good as the NH ones.


Kinda what I figured. Plus, it seemed like it'd be risky with a PTO.

I've never liked the looks of the blocks. All our Fords/New Hollands had stabilizers of some sort. In the old days it was "stabilizer bars" that pinned on, one pin under the axle, one on the side of the lift arm ahead of the lift arm ball. We used to run a 3 point shredder to knock down cotton stalks and those things SUCKED in stalks-- inevitably the axle-end pin would get knocked out sooner or later and the stabilizer arm would drop, stab into the clay about a half-foot deep, and then bend into a pretty good "U" shape when it tried to pole vault the shredder by lifting up on the rear stabilizer arm pin. Then you got to take it off, run to the house, and beat the [email protected] thing with a sledge hammer with it propped up on wood blocks to straighten it back out. Once you got it straight enough, if you were careful, you could drive the tractor up on top of it and finish bending it straight, put it back on, and go back to the field. They were spring steel so bending them back was a real challenge.

Besides shredding, we also had to use the stabilizers when middlebusting with a plow (lister, bedder) and to keep the 7100 3 point Deere planter centered on top of the bed while planting, and of course when mowing hay and a few other jobs. Didn't use the stabilizers when cultivating or hipping up beds, so that the hipper or cultivator could follow the row on it's own (self centering). The older tractors had HD "check chains" that went from the arm to the rear hitch drawbar swing channel ends on the inside to keep the arms from hitting the wheels when off or keep the cultivator or hipper from swinging too far left or right and hitting the rear tires.

The last New Hollands we bought have the chains on the outside of the arms between the axle pin bracket and the arm, with a little turnbuckle in the middle. Basically a cheaper version of the tube-type pinned stabilizers in the pics mentioned in the other thread. Want to get a set of those as they're a direct bolt-on replacement (higher-end models had them standard) and do away with the stupid threaded little turnbuckle that tends to rust up some and get stiff and sticky and requires a crescent wrench to tighten up. The arms are free when unhitched to swing outwards until they ALMOST hit the tires-- basically the sockets the arms fit into and pull from on the underside of the tractor axle inboard planetaries are designed so that about the time the arm smacks up against the side of the pocket, it's scraping the inside edge of the tire, at least with the tractor set up for 40 inch rows, with the tires spread all the way out. If you have it set up narrower, they came equipped with a little thin chain that you're supposed to hook between the two arms (which is permanently bolted to the arm on either end and hook together in the middle) to prevent the arms from tangling with the tires. Fortunately we've never had to bother with them and simply wrapped the check chains around the arms and hooked them to their own bolted ends to keep them out of the way.

The tubular telescoping stabilizers are DEFINITELY the way to go. The BIL's Case 2290 and 2390 have the blocks-- those things look stupid and I don't see how they could EVER possibly keep a 3 point planter centered on the top of a bed (which has never come up for them because everybody uses drag-type planters in Indiana and flat plants, that I've seen-- farming on beds was quite the novelty for them when they first came down here after Betty and I got married...)

Later! OL J R


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