# How important is liquid in the rear tires



## Aaroncboo (Sep 21, 2014)

So as I finished raking and pulled into the yard I noticed that the side of the wheel was wet. I've been slowly leaking chloride for a month or two but when I touched valve stem its just popped... Leaked a bunch out. So I need to get it fixed but I'm wondering what you guys think about the liquid weights? I do use the loader for 5x6 bales and bins of brewers grain. I'm not too happy with the rust that always end up with flats.


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## rjmoses (Apr 4, 2010)

As the man said "Don't leave home without it." I use windshield washer fluid instead of calcium chloride. Sacrifice a tad in weight but no corrosion problems.

Ralph


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## Vol (Jul 5, 2009)

If you have steep hills, it is a small price to pay for a very large safety advantage. If you farm a tabletop, I would skip it.

In 2017, I replaced two rear tires on a tractor that had CC in them since it was new over 25 years ago. Not a speck of rust on the inside of the rims. I am not sure why some rust and some don't.

Regards, Mike


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## 8350HiTech (Jul 26, 2013)

I would think the total weight of the tractor matters whether you need the extra weight or not. Rust, meh. Like Vol said, sometimes rust and sometimes not. If you run tubes the liquid is never going to touch your rim until it leaks and at that point you should be doing something about it anyway. I see old, rusty rims sometimes and have to assume someone just allowed a slow leak to go on indefinitely to get that kind of damage.


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## chevytaHOE5674 (Mar 14, 2015)

If you can afford it buy cast wheel weights. That way when you get a flat you dont have to buy the weight again.


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## swmnhay (Jun 13, 2008)

They started useing beet juice here instead of CC.Dont know a lot about it but non corrosive and doesn't freeze.
https://www.rimguardsolutions.com/


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## IHCman (Aug 27, 2011)

We've got beet juice in 3 of our tractors. I really can't say much about it other than its non corrosive and non toxic to the enviroment if you do get a leak. I can't remember how it compares weight wise to CC but for some reason i think it may be heavier.

We still have CC in other tractors but would probably switch them over to beet juice if changing both rear tires. Have had a couple of rims with CC rust through before. Probably took em 30+ years to rust through though.


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## Ox76 (Oct 22, 2018)

I think rear tire ballast is very important, especially on a loader tractor.

Calcium is cheaper, beet juice is non corrosive.

Even if I had cast iron wheel weights I would still load the tires.

One secret to preventing rusted out rims is fixing any leak immediately and making sure the rim is washed down with water thoroughly and left to dry thoroughly. Painting real quick with a rattle can is even better, before mounting tire again. Then again, sometimes the leak is such a slow seep nobody will notice until years later when a hole appears in the rim.


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## Tx Jim (Jun 30, 2014)

IHCman said:


> We've got beet juice in 3 of our tractors. I really can't say much about it other than its non corrosive and non toxic to the enviroment if you do get a leak. I can't remember how it compares weight wise to CC but for some reason i think it may be heavier.


Beet juice weighs 11# per gallon. CC weight per gallon would depend on amount of CC utilized per gallon of water.


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## bool (Mar 14, 2016)

I have heard that you are not supposed to put water in radial tyres. So I have cast weights on my NH TS100. And if I am doing heavy loader work I put a counterweight on the 3-point at the back.

Roger


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## Vol (Jul 5, 2009)

bool said:


> I have heard that you are not supposed to put water in radial tyres. So I have cast weights on my NH TS100. And if I am doing heavy loader work I put a counterweight on the 3-point at the back.
> 
> Roger


Yes, I have heard that too, but I have done so for over 15 years and see no apparent difference in the radial tire. If you could see the topography in my area, the tire would be a much lesser concern.

Regards, Mike


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## Farmerbrown2 (Sep 25, 2018)

Put new rear tires on two of my tractors in the last couple of years no more fluid for mine. I have a third tractor with calcium in when those get changed out in the next couple of years I’ll be going with plain old air also. I think there is place for tire ballest just not on my farm anymore so I plan on buying weights if we get back into tillage. Another big reason is my tire guy is thirty plus miles away and sometimes takes a week for them to get here. I have all the tools to change tires but calcium is a pain and just hate dealing with it.


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## JD3430 (Jan 1, 2012)

Farmerbrown2 said:


> Put new rear tires on two of my tractors in the last couple of years no more fluid for mine. I have a third tractor with calcium in when those get changed out in the next couple of years I'll be going with plain old air also. I think there is place for tire ballest just not on my farm anymore so I plan on buying weights if we get back into tillage. Another big reason is my tire guy is thirty plus miles away and sometimes takes a week for them to get here. I have all the tools to change tires but calcium is a pain and just hate dealing with it.


Agree. I see the reasons why fluid works for some, but I prefer cast center rims and wheel weights. My side gig of bush hogging presents too many problems with flats & leaks.
I removed fluid from my M135x radial tires and it rode better. I would think the fluid reduces air space and reduces ride quality. I'm always looking for wheel weights on CL and used at dealers.


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## skyrydr2 (Oct 25, 2015)

Stubble and brush will flatten a loaded tire here in New England faster than you will ever care to know... and the topography here will soil your under draws even faster so you better be paying attention no matter what the deal! I love the traction of loaded tires but the flat factor makes it a hard choice especially when you are brush hogging.. forestry special tires hold up the best but are crazy money!


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## Vol (Jul 5, 2009)

If I were to use only one type of weighting, it would be cast center rims.....but I use both simultaneously... the cast iron center rims and Calcium Chloride in/on my tires. It is a must to safely traverse the upland hillsides when using a mower or pulling a baler. This system is particularly helpful to prevent side to side movement on cab tractors when navigating uneven hillsides.

Regards, Mike


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## r82230 (Mar 1, 2016)

I've switched my Dad's old tractors to beet juice (already have beet juice in my newer tractors). With my older tractors, I also have invested in new rims (kind of had to, once they get rusty enough). I have been told with beet juice you 'give up' a little weigh, IIRC less than a half a pound a gallon. The biggest negative that I'm aware of is beet juice definitely has a strong odor (or can be positive if you can't see well, you will be able to smell the leaking tire ).

As others have said, I'd go with wheel weights first, then beet juice if I can't get enough pounds to feel comfortable using the tractor for the given operation.

BTW, I have three tractors with radial tires that are loaded. One set of tires are 30+ years old (out lasted the rims).

Larry


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## Farmerbrown2 (Sep 25, 2018)

Another thing is my tire guy only deals with calcium if it's anything else you need to provide pump and container. I don't blame him because seems like there is half a dozen different fluids in tires anymore.


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## Ox76 (Oct 22, 2018)

So what's with the "no fluid in radial tires" ideology?


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## swmnhay (Jun 13, 2008)

Ox76 said:


> So what's with the "no fluid in radial tires" ideology?


Could be a tire man that didnt want to deal with fluid in tires,just like the stop leak stuff they dont want to deal with it when sell you a new tire(some anyway)and want to charge extra.

$20 to patch a nail hole nowdays.Bought a very nice heavy duty tire plugger other day for $40.Two tires and its pd for.


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## slowzuki (Mar 8, 2011)

Fluid in radial distorts the shape of the contact patch. Also changes the spring rate of the tire (stiffens it) by reducing the air volume.

We have 2 with and 2 without. It's really if you need the weight or not, cheaper than cast.


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## Vol (Jul 5, 2009)

slowzuki said:


> Fluid in radial distorts the shape of the contact patch. Also changes the spring rate of the tire (stiffens it) by reducing the air volume.
> 
> We have 2 with and 2 without. It's really if you need the weight or not, cheaper than cast.


I have not noticed any "stiffening". If anything, I think mine has gotten softer as I have to keep a little more tire pressure to keep from bouncing on the highway at higher speeds.

Regards, Mike


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## Gearclash (Nov 25, 2010)

I will absolutely not have fluid in my tires for several reasons. The biggest reason is the loss of ride quality. Fluid reduces the air space by 2/3 or so. That will make the tire ride a lot harsher. Between rough ground conditions and the need for faster field operating speeds I am seeing a serious need to improve the ride quality of my tractors every way I can; no way I would compromise that with fluid. The other problem I have with fluid is the hassle of dealing with it in the event of tire problems. Tractor tires are enough work to service as it is, not looking at all to complicate that. If you need more stability, I would recommend widening the wheel base of the tractor if at all possible. I have two tractors set at 88" tire centers and they are very stable, even without added weight. I use both to bale road ditches and I have no great concern about tipping.


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## Vol (Jul 5, 2009)

Gearclash said:


> I use both to bale road ditches and I have no great concern about tipping.


That is funny Neil. If you ever make it down this far South, give me a shout. I want to take you for a spin. 

Regards, Mike


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## carcajou (Jan 28, 2011)

Vol said:


> That is funny Neil. If you ever make it down this far South, give me a shout. I want to take you for a spin.
> 
> Regards, Mike


More to the story Mike?


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## Gearclash (Nov 25, 2010)

Vol said:


> That is funny Neil. If you ever make it down this far South, give me a shout. I want to take you for a spin.
> 
> Regards, Mike


LOL! I have a counter offer for you. If you get up here at the right time I'll take you along when I make a silage pile with a wheel loader.


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## Vol (Jul 5, 2009)

Gearclash said:


> LOL! I have a counter offer for you. If you get up here at the right time I'll take you along when I make a silage pile with a wheel loader.


Fair enough!

Regards, Mike


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## chevytaHOE5674 (Mar 14, 2015)

I only have a few loaded tires left. Going tubeless and dry whenever possible. The ability to jam a plug in a tire and fix a leak in 30 seconds in the field is worth the tradeoff.


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## mlappin (Jun 25, 2009)

Tubeless tires with chloride will outlast a tube tire with chloride, its when the chloride is trapped between the tube and rim that it eats metal. Our MF4880 is loaded with chloride, tubeless tires and the rims looked like new last time we had a tire off.


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## endrow (Dec 15, 2011)

chevytaHOE5674 said:


> I only have a few loaded tires left. Going tubeless and dry whenever possible. The ability to jam a plug in a tire and fix a leak in 30 seconds in the field is worth the tradeoff.


 Again I agree tubes are instant death soon as you got a leak in my eyes are polluted the shop And that is if you can make it to the shop. I do wonder What type of plugging equipment people use on big tires. Quite a few of The most recent tire changes My side put commercial sealer in the tire to get real small Punctures we are told that many people do this.. But we still plug some tires again what tools do you use for the big ones


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