# John deere 336



## Ranger518 (Aug 6, 2016)

Hi I just bought a 1 owner John deere 336 square baler that the owner baled 150 bales the day I bought it and it never missed a bale the bales looked pretty good. I am not sure if I am going to be able to use it this year and I have plains on cleaing it up and have it ready to go for next season by replacing all the springs, chains, belts, teeth, and paint it. I was wondering what the common wear parts are and common fail parts so I can repair replace while I am working on it. Thanks.


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## MFSuper90 (Jun 26, 2015)

Same as most small square balers
Plunger bearings and guides
Knotter knives
Knotter wipers (jus in case you adjust it too close)
Plunger knives and shims
Pickup teeth
Auger drive belt
Shear bolts (you'll definitely want those)


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## Ranger518 (Aug 6, 2016)

MFSuper90 said:


> Same as most small square balers
> Plunger bearings and guides
> Knotter knives
> Knotter wipers (jus in case you adjust it too close)
> ...


Yea I was thinking on replacing the plunger bearings they seam good but I guess I should just go ahead and replace them so I don't haft to worry about it. The knifes look prety good I was just going to sharpen them up.


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## VA Haymaker (Jul 1, 2014)

Owners manual.

Shear bolts for sure. If you can, try to make a few bales with it and see first hand what you've got. Then do a through winter service starting with pulling the plunger. Also check hay dog springs too.

336 IMHO is a legendary baler - nice find.


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## Tx Jim (Jun 30, 2014)

Keep in mind baler will need to be timed if either chain is replaced. If it was my baler I'd pull plunger head to inspect brgs and if there weren't worn very much or faulty I'd reuse the brgs.


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## Ranger518 (Aug 6, 2016)

leeave96 said:


> Owners manual.
> Shear bolts for sure. If you can, try to make a few bales with it and see first hand what you've got. Then do a through winter service starting with pulling the plunger. Also check hay dog springs too.
> 336 IMHO is a legendary baler - nice find.


It came with the original owners manual but I an going to order a repair manual also. Do I need to get actual shear bolts or can I just get some regular bolts in the same style and size? I have a 10 acer pasture with some horses on it that I need to cut anyways it is not good hay but i guess it will give me a chance to see how she runs and be able to get it set up to the bale size I want.


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## Ranger518 (Aug 6, 2016)

Tx Jim said:


> Keep in mind baler will need to be timed if either chain is replaced. If it was my baler I'd pull plunger head to inspect brgs and if there weren't worn very much or faulty I'd reuse the brgs.


Ok that is what I will do. Thanks


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## Tx Jim (Jun 30, 2014)

Ranger518 said:


> It came with the original owners manual but I an going to order a repair manual also. Do I need to get actual shear bolts or can I just get some regular bolts in the same style and size? I have a 10 acer pasture with some horses on it that I need to cut anyways it is not good hay but i guess it will give me a chance to see how she runs and be able to get it set up to the bale size I want.


You need the actual shear bolts for flywheel. Needle lift shear is as an ordinary capscrew.

19H3031

Cap Screw - SCREW, HEX HEAD










<a> ADD</a>

1.50 USD

K40001

Lock Nut - LOCK NUT, NUT - 1/4 LOCK










<a> ADD</a>

0.58 USD

BP13931

Bolt - BOLT, FLYWHEEL SHEAR










<a> ADD</a>

1.58 USD

E50102

Lock Nut - LOCK NUT,

0.93 USD


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## Ranger518 (Aug 6, 2016)

[quote name="Tx Jim" post="486066" timestamp="1471198648"]You need the actual shear bolts for flywheel. Needle lift shear is as an ordinary capscrew.

19H3031

Cap Screw - SCREW, HEX HEAD










ADD

1.50 USD

K40001

Lock Nut - LOCK NUT, NUT - 1/4 LOCK










ADD

0.58 USD

BP13931

Bolt - BOLT, FLYWHEEL SHEAR










ADD

1.58 USD

E50102

Lock Nut - LOCK NUT,

0.93 USD

Ok that's what I figured I will just order me a box of Them thanks


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## 8350HiTech (Jul 26, 2013)

May I ask how ugly it is to want to paint it?


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## Coondle (Aug 28, 2013)

You mentioned you would replace the springs, but most important spring is the plunger stop spring.

Regular mild steel bolts are unsuitable for shear bolts, the material tends to rear and smear itself between the shaft and the flywheel and on an older worn baler that can give some grief in getting the broken bolt out. Shear bolts are high tensile and when they fail the failure is sudden and the shear surfaces clean. That said if using a high tensile bolt then the correct grade is required (if known) a grade 8 bolt has a greater shear resistance than say a grade 5. A grade 12 metric bolt even higher, further the shear bolts designed for that job often have a reduced thread diameter to the rest of the bolt and a self locking nut.

The recommended torque values give a clue as to the tensile strength of a bolt e.g. grade 8 3/8 inch unf, torque value 48 ft bs; whereas a grade 12.9 metric 10 mm (equivalent to 3/8 ) is 70 ft lbs.

Here is a link to a very good manual that covers the 336, but of course there is nothing like having a hard copy to thumb through.

**See link in post #21 for Coondles link to John Deere Square balers(336 and others).


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## Vol (Jul 5, 2009)

Could not get the page to translate into English Coondle.

Regards, Mike


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## Tx Jim (Jun 30, 2014)

One can view an operators manual for 328/338 on JDparts.com which in most cases info contained will be close enough.


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## Ranger518 (Aug 6, 2016)

8350HiTech said:


> May I ask how ugly it is to want to paint it?


I'm just kind pickey and cant aford nice looking equipment and i like my stuff to look good so I just buy used equipment clean it up tune it up replace anything that needs replacing and give it a nice paint job with new decals. But no it does not need to be painted for its age it looks pretty good


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## Ranger518 (Aug 6, 2016)

Only good pic I have


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## Tx Jim (Jun 30, 2014)

It appears after viewing your photo that according to amount of yellow paint still on pickup teeth strippers that your new purchase hasn't baled "very much hay". Nice looking baler.


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## slowzuki (Mar 8, 2011)

Yup in good shape externally, I'd evaluate how it works before changing too many parts. Can be hard to sort out any original problems from new ones caused by the refurb work.


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## Ranger518 (Aug 6, 2016)

Tx Jim said:


> It appears after viewing your photo that according to amount of yellow paint still on pickup teeth strippers that your new purchase hasn't baled "very much hay". Nice looking baler.


I think you are right. I bought the baler from the original owners son who said his dad bought it brand new from the John deere dealership he was a mechanic at and used it very little and that it sat for several years in a barn not in use until his son pulled it out 3-4 years ago and bales a few hundred bales a year out of it for his horses.


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## 8350HiTech (Jul 26, 2013)

Ranger518 said:


> I'm just kind pickey and cant aford nice looking equipment and i like my stuff to look good so I just buy used equipment clean it up tune it up replace anything that needs replacing and give it a nice paint job with new decals. But no it does not need to be painted for its age it looks pretty good


A clean original is hard to find. If for some reason you ever had to sell it, the first question most people would ask is "what did you try to hide with the paint?" Obviously, it's yours to paint, but paint doesn't bale hay. Just a different opinion.


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## Ranger518 (Aug 6, 2016)

8350HiTech said:


> A clean original is hard to find. If for some reason you ever had to sell it, the first question most people would ask is "what did you try to hide with the paint?" Obviously, it's yours to paint, but paint doesn't bale hay. Just a different opinion.


Yea that is probley true I am just so dang O.C.D about how my stuff looks and performs my wife thinks I am crazy also.


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## Vol (Jul 5, 2009)

Coondle said:


> You mentioned you would replace the springs, but most important spring is the plunger stop spring.
> 
> Regular mild steel bolts are unsuitable for shear bolts, the material tends to rear and smear itself between the shaft and the flywheel and on an older worn baler that can give some grief in getting the broken bolt out. Shear bolts are high tensile and when they fail the failure is sudden and the shear surfaces clean. That said if using a high tensile bolt then the correct grade is required (if known) a grade 8 bolt has a greater shear resistance than say a grade 5. A grade 12 metric bolt even higher, further the shear bolts designed for that job often have a reduced thread diameter to the rest of the bolt and a self locking nut.
> 
> ...


Kevin(Coondle) sent me another link for his manual connection....and I took the liberty to post it for him. Great to have good sound information from all of our members. Courtesy of Coondle;

Regards, Mike

http://fermer.ru/files/v2/forum/134113/pres327328336337338tm1243.pdf


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## slowzuki (Mar 8, 2011)

In case folks don't realize, JD's use a special necked down shear bolt on their balers. It appears to be grade 8.


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## Wethay (Jul 17, 2015)

Looking at the picture I would guess that there won't be any wear but a place to check on a high hour machine would be the flywheel bushing and the shear bolt bushing.


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## slowzuki (Mar 8, 2011)

Often if the shear bushing is worn the flywheel bush is damaged too.

I would be shocked if this one shows any wear.


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## Ranger518 (Aug 6, 2016)

Wethay said:


> Looking at the picture I would guess that there won't be any wear but a place to check on a high hour machine would be the flywheel bushing and the shear bolt bushing.


Checked the flywheel and it is good and tight with very little play.


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