# JD 4020 powershift



## FarmerCline (Oct 12, 2011)

I have been working on getting some different tractors that I will like and plan on running for many years, I finally was able to sell one that I hated and am now looking for one to replace it. I have been looking at a 1971 JD 4020 powershift that seems to be pretty nice but has a few things I'm concerned about.

I have always been under the impression that 4020s were good tractors....if not correct me. I know they are getting some age but this one seems to be pretty nice. I made hay last season with an early model 3020 powershift and loved the tranny....just wish the tractor was in better shape but it was cheap.

The person that is selling it is supposedly a friend of the original owners family, it supposedly has just over 6,000 original hours and the motor was completely overhauled at 5,000 hours by a JD service dept. using all original JD parts. The hours really seem to be correct but 5,000 hours seems to be awfully soon for an overhaul. The tractor has no leaks anywhere and seems to run good. It has been repainted once....looks to be about 12 to 15 years ago so it's not like it was painted to make it look good to sell.

The biggest thing I have found is when shifting out of park something sticks and you have to take a screwdriver to pop something on the shifting linkage under the shift lever to get it in gear.....it shifts between the gears just fine. Any idea on what this is and if it is something major?

It also needs rear tires....it has 34 inch tires on it now.....I prefer a 38 inch tire, what all would have to be done to put on 38 inch tires?

Thanks, Hayden


----------



## 8350HiTech (Jul 26, 2013)

It has 1000 on a dealer overhaul. Who cares how many were on it prior?

Sounds like you need a linkage adjustment.

You know what they say about bigger tires. ... bigger wheels!


----------



## Gearclash (Nov 25, 2010)

> The hours really seem to be correct but 5,000 hours seems to be awfully soon for an overhaul.


Maybe JD is different. Overhaul at 5,000 hrs on IH of this vintage would be normal.


----------



## FarmerCline (Oct 12, 2011)

8350HiTech said:


> It has 1000 on a dealer overhaul. Who cares how many were on it prior?
> Sounds like you need a linkage adjustment.
> You know what they say about bigger tires. ... bigger wheels!


 I figured I would need different rims......excuse my ignorance on this as I have never changed tire sizes, but will the actual wheel hub have to come off the axle and be replaced with a larger one?


----------



## FarmerCline (Oct 12, 2011)

Gearclash said:


> Maybe JD is different. Overhaul at 5,000 hrs on IH of this vintage would be normal.


 I wouldn't think JD would be any different, I have just heard all these stories about a well cared for tractor going 10,000 hours before needing an overhaul.....I guess that is a bunch of bull.


----------



## 8350HiTech (Jul 26, 2013)

FarmerCline said:


> I figured I would need different rims......excuse my ignorance on this as I have never changed tire sizes, but will the actual wheel hub have to come off the axle and be replaced with a larger one?


Probably but I guess it depends on what centers are on it now. If it has 18.4x34s now and your option is something like 16.9x38s, you'll probably spend way more money than you'd get back in functionality.


----------



## cornshucker (Aug 22, 2011)

5000 hours on overhaul not bad for that vintage. Some will go over 10,000 for sure. Has a lot to do with type of duty, quality of oil, how often serviced, lots of factors. the saying the more you run them the longer they will run is true. Somebody running an engine 800 hours per year is going to get longer service life than some one running one 200 hours per year. 6000 hours in 42 years is not much, less than 150 per year. A tractor that some one gets on a feeds cattle for 30 minutes a day is not going to get the amount of hours as someone running one 12-16 hours per day. Almost all of your wear on an engine comes before it gets to operating temparture before the metal has expanded to provide the correct clearances and the oil has got everything coated. The more times it is cranked cold per the amount of hours the more wear. Also this engine was built before the advent of CNC machining and also engine oils have come a long way in the last 40 years. Getting back to your question about a JD 4020, I've never owned one have used a couple a small amount the people I know that has them love them. Some people still consider the 4020 the best tractor of all time. Personally I think pretty much all makes from that era are better. Definitely more simple and easy maintained don't need a TV repair man every time something goes wrong. As for the tires if it needs new ones anyway now is the time to change wheels. Good Luck.


----------



## mlappin (Jun 25, 2009)

FarmerCline said:


> I figured I would need different rims......excuse my ignorance on this as I have never changed tire sizes, but will the actual wheel hub have to come off the axle and be replaced with a larger one?


On our Whites and Oliver's if you are going froma 34" rim to a 38" all you need are different rim dogs. 38" rim will use a slightly longer dog than a 34" rim but both use the same center disc. We refer to hubs as the part that bolts or clamps to the actual axle.


----------



## Bob M (Feb 11, 2012)

I had 34's on a 4430 that I had bought and I bought step-up rims that clamp on hubs just like the 34' rims. I have a 4230 power shift that will do the same thing, I'm thinking it probably is some worn likage.


----------



## Bob M (Feb 11, 2012)

As for the complete overhaul, check with dealer and see what they actually did. Everyone was different idea of what a "complete overhaul" is.


----------



## discbinedr (Mar 4, 2013)

Dad had a 4020 powershift. Very sweet tractor. Sorry I can't answer your questions.


----------



## SVFHAY (Dec 5, 2008)

I believe what you need is a step-up rim. My '70 has 18.4-34 fully weighted with liquid and somebody payed with the smoke screw, anyway traction is fine. If it's boulevard appeal your after that's fine but If it's performance improvement I don't know how you can justify it.

The side console power shift model is very desirable but if you ever have to get into the tranny, ouch! The problem you are describing sounds more like linkage/park cable to me.I have a 2510 ps that has acted that way for 2 decades, course it doesn't have enough power to ruin a tranny


----------



## Hayman1 (Jul 6, 2013)

Cline- I think the 4020 and the 2755 were the two best tractors JD ever made. would be at the dealers in an instant if they reintroduced either today. The fact that there are so many 4020s in regular service still today is a testimonial to the number sold and the way they hold up.

I did not know about the step up rims Bob is talking about but when I changed rims and wheels on my 2240, I got everything I needed fairly reasonable from Wengers in PA. Also, if you look at the adds for Mcgrew in the mid west they appear to have a boatload of tractors that would supply you any used parts you want-looks like the wheels and rims are not a big seller so maybe you can get a deal.


----------



## 8350HiTech (Jul 26, 2013)

Hayman1 said:


> I did not know about the step up rims Bob is talking about but when I changed rims and wheels on my 2240, I got everything I needed fairly reasonable from Wengers in PA. Also, if you look at the adds for Mcgrew in the mid west they appear to have a boatload of tractors that would supply you any used parts you want-looks like the wheels and rims are not a big seller so maybe you can get a deal.


Wheels may not be the hottest item at the salvage yard but rims disappear in a hurry. There are a lot of rusted rims out there being replaced all of the time.


----------



## NDVA HAYMAN (Nov 24, 2009)

Cline, We still run the 10,20,30,and 40 series tractors around here. With a 4020 only having 1000 hours on her, she should last you a lifetime. I have a love for 4020's with PS. Sometimes just a little Kroil Oil sprayed down into the linkage will help a lot. If that doesn't help, adjustments are necessary. I do run all 18.4/38's on mine or the 16.9/38. To me, it kind of evens out the stance of the tractor too. I would also try to get a copy of the service tickets from the owner to see exactly what was done. Sounds likea great opportunity depending on the price. Best of luck, Mike


----------



## barnrope (Mar 22, 2010)

Hayden,

A 71' or 72' power shift 4020 diesel is the ultimate 4020. A lot of 4020's get overhauled at around 5000 hours. Some guys will overhaul before they really need to. Everyone has a different opinon on when to overhaul. I am overhauling my 1970 4020 right now. it is the first overhaul and it has 10,000 hours. It definitely was time.

The shifting problem is likely in the linkage. Doing transmission work on the powershifts is not the end of the world like some say. They are a lot less complicated than anything made today.

I went from 18.4 x 34 to 18.4 x 38. The new step up rims were $300 apiece. It jumped my top road speed 3 to 4 mph. I like them.

The nice thing about a console 4020 powershift is its value is appreciating. They are very collectable and useable. A lot of the farmers in the midwest who are buying $10,000/acre ground are also putting up big shops and sheds and going out and spending big money on 1960's and1970's tractors just for nostalgia's sake. Around the midwest, a 1971 4020 diesel powershift in good looking original condition, or nicely repainted and with good rubber will easily bring $20,000 with rough condition ones still bringing close to $10,000.

We have 2 1970 4020 syncro's, a 71' 4000 syncro, and a 65' powershifter. They all get used regularly. I'd love to find a console powershift.

Here is the 70' 4020 I am currently overhauling. It is the one with the step up rims and 18.4 x 38's.


----------



## Farmerbrown2 (Sep 25, 2018)

I have a 4020 powershift 68' model with about 6800 hours so it is possible for them to be out there . My brother owns a 67' 4020 standard with M&W turbo pushing 27,000 hours came off of a dairy farm tractor has been parked for 9 years in the shed been thinking of pulling it out and getting it running again .I know my brothers has been over hauled 5times. I'm sure all it would take to get running is some batteries and fresh fluids.I also know of two 4010 gas jobs with over 20,000 hours on them . So yes I feel they are good tractors, only problem with the p.s. is equipment should have an over running clutch or it destroys then pto brake.


----------



## NDVA HAYMAN (Nov 24, 2009)

Barn rope, is that a Hiniker cab on your 4020 ? I have a 4030 gasser with a cab like that.


----------



## barnrope (Mar 22, 2010)

NDVA, Yes, Its a 1300 Hiniker cab. I just put a foam kit in it last year. It helped a little for noise level and heat retention. Cab kits for about any model tractor or combine are made right here in my home town.

A 4030 gasser is a pretty uncommon bird. I know a few friends who would love to add it to their collections.


----------



## NDVA HAYMAN (Nov 24, 2009)

Yep. I bought it about 25 years ago from the local banker in ND. I had never seen one before and I needed something that would start in the winter without fail, so I jumped on it. Has the exact cab as yours and a 148 loader with grapple. We just got it out of the barn for its twice yearly wash and wax.


----------



## NDVA HAYMAN (Nov 24, 2009)

[quote name="barnrope" post="116760" timestamp="1389045904"]NDVA, Yes, Its a 1300 Hiniker cab. I just put a foam kit in it last year. It helped a little for noise level and heat retention. Cab kits for about any model tractor or combine are made right here in my home town. I would guess that would be K&M ?


----------



## FarmerCline (Oct 12, 2011)

Thanks fellas for all the input, I went to look at the tractor again today. It has 18.4/34s on it now that are mismatched and need replacing. I know it is not essential to change to a 38 inch tire but I figure since they need changed I might as well. I was thinking of putting 16.9/38s on but I see some of you mention 18.4/38s.....which would be a better tire size for the tractor? Also I'm not real familiar with these step up rims y'all are talking about, what exactly do they do? I'm assuming that is something to purchase from JD?

One other thing I noticed is the air intake is under the hood rather than sticking up like on most other 4020s I see. Did some of them come from the factory like that and is there any benefit of it sticking up rather than under the hood?

It did not want to start very good in the cold today.....it was in the low 20s which is cold for here. Once it was running it ran good though. I stopped in at the farm store I buy my seed and fertilize from because he runs a 4020 syncro and he said his had always since he bought it new had been hard to crank in the cold....just to plug it in a while before using it and it would be okay. Any thoughts?


----------



## 8350HiTech (Jul 26, 2013)

FarmerCline said:


> Thanks fellas for all the input, I went to look at the tractor again today. It has 18.4/34s on it now that are mismatched and need replacing. I know it is not essential to change to a 38 inch tire but I figure since they need changed I might as well. I was thinking of putting 16.9/38s on but I see some of you mention 18.4/38s.....which would be a better tire size for the tractor? Also I'm not real familiar with these step up rims y'all are talking about, what exactly do they do? I'm assuming that is something to purchase from JD?


Just do it right the first time. If you're changing rims, just go with the 18.4s.

Rims are generic. Your tire supplier probably has access to rims in addition to tractor parts places. If you have a salvage yard handy, they may be willing to give you something in trade for your 34s if they're in good shape.


----------



## barnrope (Mar 22, 2010)

NDVA HAYMAN said:


> [quote name="barnrope" post="116760" timestamp="1389045904"]NDVA, Yes, Its a 1300 Hiniker cab. I just put a foam kit in it last year. It helped a little for noise level and heat retention. Cab kits for about any model tractor or combine are made right here in my home town. I would guess that would be K&M ?


Its now http://www.tractorinteriors.com/all-products/ Back in the 1970's thru 1990's they were supplying JD and IHC directly to the assembly lines under a different name. If anyone wants to visit directly with sales guy/ custom installer/ full time farmer/ BS'er, call Jim at 507-438-5906. He will be glad to help out or just visit about just about anything.

FarmerCline,

There is really no advantage of going from 18.4 x 34" to 16.9 x 38" tires. The 18.4 x 34" tire is about the same height and is wider. Unless you want more top road speed I would stay with 18.4 x 34"s. If you want drop center rims, they are made at Wold Tire and Rim in Saint Ansgar, Iowa. When you call you will most likely talk to a member of the Wold family. I reckon they have a web site you can get more info from. A new set of Firestones really make a 4020 look classy.

Most of the console models, (1969 -1972) did not come with the pre cleaner stack through the hood. They drew air through a dry element air cleaner under the hood rather than the oil bath air cleaner on the earlier models. That would be normal for the tractor you are looking at.

On a stock late model 4020, they never really started very well in the cold. You stated it was overhauled with stock JD parts. It makes sense that it might have been a touch hard to start today. Here in the upper midwest most 4020s got overhauled with the M&W Power Crater kit which raised the compression ratio just a tad. Not enough to have to worry about blowing head gaskets, but enough so they would start nicely down to well below freezing without plugging them in or using starting fluid. Also HP was a bit better as well. Nowadays you can't get the M&W kits but the closest substitute is the Relliant Hyper kit. It is what I am putting in my 4020. I also used it in my 4440. It comes with a 3 year 5000 hour warrantee with the first 2 years being both parts and labor, and the third year just parts. That's a better warrantee than Deere and it is cheaper than Deere's kit to boot, besides allowing the tractor to start a lot easier in the cold. I get the complete engine overhaul kits through a neighbor for about $1300, and he said he'd be willing to drop ship parts any where in the USA. If anyone is interested I can forward you his name and number.

Getting back to the 4020 you are looking at, plug it in, or use ether. It will be just fine.

Best of luck !

Tom


----------



## Hayman1 (Jul 6, 2013)

for that horsepower, since you have to replace the tires anyway, I would definitely go with the 18-38s with fluid and wts if I needed them. Nothing like going where you want to go when you want to go there. You are in an area with similar landscapes to me. go for it.


----------



## FarmerCline (Oct 12, 2011)

The faster the road speed I can get the better as I have some road travel between fields. So y'all are saying that if I'm going to change to a 38 inch tire to go with a 18.4/38 instead of a 16.9/38? I guess the wider tire would cause less compaction.


----------



## barnrope (Mar 22, 2010)

FarmerCline said:


> The faster the road speed I can get the better as I have some road travel between fields. So y'all are saying that if I'm going to change to a 38 inch tire to go with a 18.4/38 instead of a 16.9/38? I guess the wider tire would cause less compaction.


The 18.4 x 38 will get you to around 25 or 26 MPH running wide open, foot throttle down on a powershift 4020. compared to about 21 or 22 MPH with 16.9 x38s or 18.4 x 34s. I forgot to mention that the powershift will run about 3 to 4 MPH faster than the syncro shift models. And yes, you will have less compaction with 18.4 x 38s.


----------



## NDVA HAYMAN (Nov 24, 2009)

Cline, your 4020 could have come with 16.9/38 or even 15.5/38 from the factory. The 18.4/38's would look awesome and will help with pulling hills and heavy equipment. I think that the 4020 was almost identical in looks tothe 4010 except the instrument panel and maybe a few other things. You failed to mention if the tractor has weights. I always liked the cleaner lines of the tractors without the air cleaner above the hood. I do have a new set of 18.4/38 Firestone 23 degree available if you are interested. Mike


----------



## Guest (Jan 8, 2014)

4020 one of my favorite tractors! We just got ours overhauled and painted. Cant go wrong in purchasing this tractor. I do know they do hold there value very well also.


----------



## NDVA HAYMAN (Nov 24, 2009)

Bobs, all I can say is NICE !


----------



## FarmerCline (Oct 12, 2011)

It sounds like the 18.4/38s are the way to go. That is what my IH 986 has, it had brand new firestones when I bought it. It does not have any front or rear wheel weights....I think I would at least want a set of rear wheel weights. Also is a radial tire better than standard tire?


----------



## FarmerCline (Oct 12, 2011)

NDVA HAYMAN said:


> Cline, your 4020 could have come with 16.9/38 or even 15.5/38 from the factory. The 18.4/38's would look awesome and will help with pulling hills and heavy equipment. I think that the 4020 was almost identical in looks tothe 4010 except the instrument panel and maybe a few other things. You failed to mention if the tractor has weights. I always liked the cleaner lines of the tractors without the air cleaner above the hood. I do have a new set of 18.4/38 Firestone 23 degree available if you are interested. Mike


 If I end up buying the tractor I may possibly be interested in those tires.


----------



## 8350HiTech (Jul 26, 2013)

FarmerCline said:


> It sounds like the 18.4/38s are the way to go. That is what my IH 986 has, it had brand new firestones when I bought it. It does not have any front or rear wheel weights....I think I would at least want a set of rear wheel weights. Also is a radial tire better than standard tire?


Depends on what you'll use the tractor for. Radials are great for ride quality, flotation, possibly traction (if you get the r1w and run it on hard sod, might actually be worse for traction), and spending lots of money  Bias would suit for lots of standard hay work.

(Related note: firestones are expensive. If you can tell the difference between them and a pair of BKT or Galaxy once they're on your tractor, I'd be shocked.)


----------



## barnrope (Mar 22, 2010)

The 71' and 72' had 18.4 x 38 as an option. When they came form Deere with the big tires they also came with the big fenders like you see on 4320's, 4520's and 4620's.

I have a set of BKT radial tires on a 7920 and I really like them. Like 8350 says, Bias tires will get you by just fine for hay work and most any tillage work you will want to do with a 4020.

Most of the 4020's around still have 18.4 x 34's on them and there's nothing wrong with them either. They will keep your gearing in factory range if you are doing heavy tillage work.


----------



## FarmerCline (Oct 12, 2011)

I will defiantly be using the tractor to pull my 5070 square baler and 1590 no till drill. Depending if an opportunity that has come up works out it would see some row crop work which would include pulling a sprayer. There is also a chance it could see some tillage work which would most likely be a 14 foot tandem disc.....the heavier work like chisel plowing or offset discing would be left to the IH 986.


----------



## cornshucker (Aug 22, 2011)

JD 4020 and IH 986 looks like you have got two of the classic workhorse's.


----------



## discbinedr (Mar 4, 2013)

cornshucker said:


> JD 4020 and IH 986 looks like you have got two of the classic workhorse's.


The first one is a classic. The second is just an old tractor. Sorry, couldn't help it....


----------



## Hayman1 (Jul 6, 2013)

discbinedr said:


> The first one is a classic. The second is just an old tractor. Sorry, couldn't help it....


if it is a motor machine, it needs to be green!


----------



## FarmerCline (Oct 12, 2011)

C'mon fellas there's nothing wrong with IH tractors......myself I do like JD tractors but I also like IH and I don't mind some others either.....don't care for any Chinese crap though. It is kind of funny now that I look back when I first bought the 986, I thought I hated that tractor....I thought it was way too big for me and I would tear my equipment up with it. You have to realize at the time my big tractor was a 4600 Ford and it was huge compared to it. The biggest problem was I was pushed into making a quick decision by the seller and I honestly did pay way too much for it....the dealer saw me coming as someone who was new to farming and did not know what I was looking at. This caused a bad case of buyers remorse for me and that was the real reason for me hating it. I was so upset with myself that I would not even use the tractor....let it sit in the back corner of the shed for a year before I realized I could use a tractor that size. Once I got to using it I really liked it.


----------



## FarmerCline (Oct 12, 2011)

barnrope said:


> The 71' and 72' had 18.4 x 38 as an option. When they came form Deere with the big tires they also came with the big fenders like you see on 4320's, 4520's and 4620's.
> 
> I have a set of BKT radial tires on a 7920 and I really like them. Like 8350 says, Bias tires will get you by just fine for hay work and most any tillage work you will want to do with a 4020.
> 
> Most of the 4020's around still have 18.4 x 34's on them and there's nothing wrong with them either. They will keep your gearing in factory range if you are doing heavy tillage work.


 You know I have been thinking about this and I wonder if the 18.4/38s will look funny if the tractor has the standard size fenders which I assume it does.

The other thing I thought about is while the extra road speed will be great I wonder how much it will increase my working speeds in the field....I don't want to get where it would be too fast for my square baler.


----------



## discbinedr (Mar 4, 2013)

FarmerCline said:


> C'mon fellas there's nothing wrong with IH tractors......myself I do like JD tractors but I also like IH and I don't mind some others either.....don't care for any Chinese crap though. It is kind of funny now that I look back when I first bought the 986, I thought I hated that tractor....I thought it was way too big for me and I would tear my equipment up with it. You have to realize at the time my big tractor was a 4600 Ford and it was huge compared to it. The biggest problem was I was pushed into making a quick decision by the seller and I honestly did pay way too much for it....the dealer saw me coming as someone who was new to farming and did not know what I was looking at. This caused a bad case of buyers remorse for me and that was the real reason for me hating it. I was so upset with myself that I would not even use the tractor....let it sit in the back corner of the shed for a year before I realized I could use a tractor that size. Once I got to using it I really liked it.


FarmerCline , I don't hate IH either, I have a lot of respect for the 7xxx Magnums especially. IMO from the late 60s to the late 80s Deere was farther ahead of IH than any time before or since. If you get that 4020 powershift I bet that 986 will sit back in the shed again.


----------



## NDVA HAYMAN (Nov 24, 2009)

Cline, I started with IH and still have a 1486 and an 886. The 66 and 86 tractor series were good ones as far as I'm concerned. Also have a 3088 open station that just sits in the barn. Mike


----------



## FarmerCline (Oct 12, 2011)

I'm thinking about making a deal on the tractor, I have got the asking price down to $14,000.....Is that too much considering what I said about the tractor? It is going to have to have rims, tires, and I want to put a roll guard and canopy to keep me out of the sun. The tractor has no weights either.


----------



## 8350HiTech (Jul 26, 2013)

Yes.


----------



## barnrope (Mar 22, 2010)

No its not too much. Good Luck!


----------



## 8350HiTech (Jul 26, 2013)

barnrope said:


> No its not too much. Good Luck!


Compare it to the $12000, low-hour 4230 with a cab that Bob M is looking at and tell me again how 14 (and intending to spend another 4k before it hits the field) is somehow not too much. Heck, there's a 4x4 5140 maxxum CAH advertised in the Lancaster Farming for 15,500 obo. I know where I'd spend my money.


----------



## barnrope (Mar 22, 2010)

What I mean is this. If you are looking to buy a 4020 powershift console, its not a bad price. I am not comparing it to any other model of tractor, or even to any other 4020 other than to 71 4020 powershift tractors.


----------



## 8350HiTech (Jul 26, 2013)

Ok. But I didn't get the impression that he was hell bent on acquiring that exact tractor.


----------



## FarmerCline (Oct 12, 2011)

I'm not dead set on having to have that exact tractor. If fact as soon as I sell one more that I want rid of I will be looking for another tractor to replace it also....preferably one with a cab and air. I have always heard a 4020 was one of the best JD made and if I ever came across one that wasn't worn out I would consider it. I do want a powershift though and would much prefer the '69-'72 a side console model as I'm not real fond of the weird electrical system on my '67 3020.

I agree that the price seems high compared to some other 4020s but you don't run across a powershift every day either. I did manage to get the price to $13,500 but he said he wouldn't take any less as a collector would pay at least that for it. I think that is what is driving the price up on these tractors.

One other thing I failed to mention was the tin on the tractor is in overall pretty good cosmetic condition except for one thing....the nose of the front hood has been knocked in pretty good. How hard will this be to get fixed properly? I know this does not affect the way the tractor runs at all but I just can't stand to drive something around that is beat up.


----------



## FarmerCline (Oct 12, 2011)

Well I bought the tractor for $13,500. I took another farmer who is a mechanic and has a '72 4020 syncro range with me to look at it and said he thought it was In real nice mechanical condition. I figured that since this one was close by I had better take it. Even If I found one farther away cheaper it may not be in as good of mechanical condition and I would still have to have it brought here and that would cost money so I figured buying local is easier. I hope I made a good decision.


----------



## Bgriffin856 (Nov 13, 2013)

Congratulations. You did good for condition and being close

Never been around a deere from that era. Much rather have a 56 or 66 series IH from that time period. I think 4020's are overpriced as well as most green stuff.


----------



## Vol (Jul 5, 2009)

FarmerCline said:


> Well I bought the tractor for $13,500. I took another farmer who is a mechanic and has a '72 4020 syncro range with me to look at it and said he thought it was In real nice mechanical condition. I figured that since this one was close by I had better take it. Even If I found one farther away cheaper it may not be in as good of mechanical condition and I would still have to have it brought here and that would cost money so I figured buying local is easier. I hope I made a good decision.


Congratulations Hayden. I hope you get a lifetime of service out of that really classic green tractor. Green has always had its detractors.....but JD is clearly the number one tractor in sales and support system. Green with envy. 

Regards, Mike


----------



## mlappin (Jun 25, 2009)

Go with the radials, you'll get a much better ride and if you properly inflate them you'll reduce compaction as well.

I have two identical tractors, one with 18.4-38 radials and the other with bias, you can definitely tell that the radials give a nicer ride.

Firestones are cheap compared to Michelins. Never heard of BKT tires. Had too many Firestones fail on our sprayer so went with Michelins, better ride and don't have to run near as much air pressure.


----------



## Vol (Jul 5, 2009)

FarmerCline said:


> One other thing I failed to mention was the tin on the tractor is in overall pretty good cosmetic condition except for one thing....the nose of the front hood has been knocked in pretty good. How hard will this be to get fixed properly? I know this does not affect the way the tractor runs at all but I just can't stand to drive something around that is beat up.


Hayden, I suggest that you send NDVA HAYMAN a PM as he is a JD user and collector and he could give you real practical advice on whether to repair the nose or to replace the nose and he would know where some good part sources would be located.

Regards, Mike


----------



## barnrope (Mar 22, 2010)

Congrats on your purchase! Lets see some pictures!

Find somebody that has the hood tool for the front. It is a set of dies that you slide into place and you pound on them to form the nose of the hood back. Seems like you can buy them for around $120. My neighbor who runs a tractor repair shop specializing JD uses them occasionally.


----------



## Grateful11 (Apr 5, 2009)

Congrats on 4020 FC. Does your mechanic friend know enough about the shift linkage to get her shifting right?

My wife priced a set 18.4/38's Good Year Dura Torques, I believe was the name of them, for the CIH 5140 and they're not but about $300 more for the pair than BKT's. All the BKT's I've seen we're made in India and they may be fine tires but the Good Years are made in the US. For the price difference I'd rather have US made.


----------



## FarmerCline (Oct 12, 2011)

Grateful11 said:


> Congrats on 4020 FC. Does your mechanic friend know enough about the shift linkage to get her shifting right?
> My wife priced a set 18.4/38's Good Year Dura Torques, I believe was the name of them, for the CIH 5140 and they're not but about $300 more for the pair than BKT's. All the BKT's I've seen we're made in India and they may be fine tires but the Good Years are made in the US. For the price difference I'd rather have US made.


 That was the first powershift he had been on but he said he may be able to figure out the linkage.....the trouble is he usually doesn't have the time to work on anything for the private individual.


----------



## FarmerCline (Oct 12, 2011)

I was thinking of putting 18.4/38 firestone all traction 23 degree bias tires on as that is what my IH 986 has and I have been pleased with them. My JD 3020 also has that tire except it is a 16.9/38 and I have been pleased with them as well.

I will have to look a bit more into a radial tire before I make my final decision though. Besides giving a better ride will the radial tire improve traction/field performance? Do I want to load the tires with antifreeze?


----------



## Hayman1 (Jul 6, 2013)

FarmerCline said:


> Well I bought the tractor for $13,500. I took another farmer who is a mechanic and has a '72 4020 syncro range with me to look at it and said he thought it was In real nice mechanical condition. I figured that since this one was close by I had better take it. Even If I found one farther away cheaper it may not be in as good of mechanical condition and I would still have to have it brought here and that would cost money so I figured buying local is easier. I hope I made a good decision.


Ok FC- now you've done it. Congratulations. Now you just need one of those big box trailers and a wax girl and you are ready for the show season! Worried about hay season, fagetaboutit-you have a vintage Deere to take care of.


----------



## barnrope (Mar 22, 2010)

I am not a fan at all of Good Year tractor rear tires. Honestly I don't know how they sell as many as they do.

Next time I need tires I am going to look at Mitas. The plant is located 50 miles from here in the town that Hart Parr, Oliver, and White tractors were made in.


----------



## Grateful11 (Apr 5, 2009)

FC, There's a guy in China Grove, NC that's a really good farm equipment mechanic if need help on that shift linkage, he's works for himself and is pretty reasonable. He's been able to fix everything my wife has thrown at him. I think he's also JD trained. I know he worked quite a while for the JD dealer in Albemarle. Not sure how far he will go. He bought a big service truck with a good size boom crane recently so he can even do engine pulls in the field, he was still getting it ready the last time I saw him but he was too busy to finish it.


----------



## FarmerCline (Oct 12, 2011)

Grateful11 said:


> FC, There's a guy in China Grove, NC that's a really good farm equipment mechanic if need help on that shift linkage, he's works for himself and is pretty reasonable. He's been able to fix everything my wife has thrown at him. I think he's also JD trained. I know he worked quite a while for the JD dealer in Albemarle. Not sure how far he will go. He bought a big service truck with a good size boom crane recently so he can even do engine pulls in the field, he was still getting it ready the last time I saw him but he was too busy to finish it.


 If I can't get anyone local to do it I may have to get his information from you. I certainly don't have the desire to pay what James River service dept. will want for labor when I'm sure there is some good private mechanics out there...I think it is like $85 a hour.


----------



## Lostin55 (Sep 21, 2013)

The only thing harder to start than my 4000 is my 4440. They are notoriously hard starting in winter. Plug in or ether either way works. BTW, the 4000 is basically a 4020 with a lighter frame, still running the 404 deisel.

Definately go with the 18.4 - 38's in my opinion. I buy most of mine at farm auctions pretty reasonable.

Tough to beat them for dependabilty, and they play nice with smaller implements.


----------



## barnrope (Mar 22, 2010)

My 4440's generally start pretty good in the cold. No complaints in that department.

4000 has the same frame as the 4020. It uses the same diameter axles as the 4010 and 3020.

Nothing really wrong with the 18.4 x 34's. Only thing you are gaining with 18.4 x 38s is speed. You will be loosing some in the gearing department.


----------

