# Haying small acreage with a small tractor?



## CDennyRun (Nov 26, 2015)

Hello all! First time poster, long time reader.

I have a Ford 1715 (27HP engine/23HP PTO) gear shift, 4x4 with FEL, weighs about 3500lbs. I plan on pulling a JD24T or NH 68, to bale 4-ish acres of native grass for our three horses and goats. I've done a ton of research on this, and feel confident I can pull it off without doing much harm to my awesome little tractor. I'm looking at a sickle bar mower tomorrow, and have a NH68 lined up for a possible purchase. Not sure what I plan on yet for a tedder or rake, but am hoping to get the dual basket ted/rake combo.

From the experience of the pro's, do you think I should have any problems with the setup I plan on? I really don't need a 60HP tractor 99% of the time, and hope to not have to buy one!

Thanks in advance!

Chris


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## deadmoose (Oct 30, 2011)

For that small acreage and use you can make it work. Many previous discussions suggest looking for an old engine driven baler to reduce stress on the tractor.

Welcome to haytalk.


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## Vol (Jul 5, 2009)

If your not located on the North slope of Mt. Ranier you can get by...

Regards, Mike


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## FarmerCline (Oct 12, 2011)

Don't mean to rain on your parade but I don't think it would be a good idea to run a baler with your tractor. I had a 1720 Ford and I can't say that I would have wanted to try it with a baler.....even an older small baler like you are talking about. I suppose for only 4 acres you might could make it work but I can't help but feeling like it will be awfully hard on the pto clutch of that tractor. Also unless you are going to be on flat ground I wouldn't even think about trying it.


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## shortrow (Feb 21, 2012)

I'd opt for 40 hp minimum.


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## CDennyRun (Nov 26, 2015)

Thanks for the responses guys! I know that 40HP is the rule of thumb for a small hay operation, and wish I could afford it. I recently upgraded from a sub compact tractor to my compact, and probably won't be buying a bigger tractor any time soon. Ha ha. I also don't want to replace a clutch every other year. I appreciate the feedback!

Edit: The ground I'll be working is totally flat, and obviously I won't be pulling a wagon.

Regards,

Chris


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## Greasy30 (Mar 15, 2010)

Do you have a neighbor with a larger tractor you could work a deal out with, like X amount of bales per use or some other arrangement?


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## rjmoses (Apr 4, 2010)

Greasy30 said:


> Do you have a neighbor with a larger tractor you could work a deal out with, like X amount of bales per use or some other arrangement?


You probably could get by, but the stress on components might shorten the life of your tractor. I'd go with this idea if possible. Tearing up your Ford could get expensive.

Ralph


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## Growing pains (Nov 7, 2015)

Not familiar with a 1720 but my family made about 10,000 bales a year in the 70's with a 641 ford pulling a 6' sickle bar, a rake that came over on the Mayflower and a 273 NH baler with 14' wagons. That tractor doesn't have a pto clutch but wouldn't have any more horse power and dad said it worked alright. The tractor is still around and used regularly so I can't think 4 acres would be terrible if you go easy. I will say I much prefer the bigger tractors we run now but if it was me I'd use what I had until it made sense to upgrade.


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## Mike120 (May 4, 2009)

Like everyone has said the baler is probably a bad idea. I had a Ford 1700 long ago that I hooked up to my old IH baler just to see how it would do. The little Ford didn't like it at all and it darn near beat me to death. You will likely ruin that little tractor. Do yourself and your tractor a favor and look at hay tools that are more appropriate to your equipment and operation:

http://www.agriquip.com/

http://www.smallfarminnovations.com/


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## VA Haymaker (Jul 1, 2014)

I'd say hp wise you're on the bottom line with the NH68, which is what I run. Probably the same for the 24t. My biggest concern is the baler slamming the PTO and it's internals on the plunger stroke.

With the 68, be prepared to wrench on it. It has wooden slides on each corner of the plunger and if they are rotten, you've got a job on your hands. Nothing about fixing a 68 is overly complicated, but a baler built in the late 50's has a lot of rusted bolts and when I say a "job" what I'm saying is knuckle busting. The trade off is $$$'s saved and the feel of satisfaction when the job is done.

I paid $550 for my NH68 and have put about $1,000 in it, including new tires, u-joints, flywheel bushings and wooden slides. It is now generally in much better condition than any $1,500ish baler for sale in my ares - that would also need $1,000 piled on top of that.

My 68 now cranks out brick shaped bales. Here is a video of us baling late last summer: 




IMHO - the JD24t is a great baler too. You'll read a lot about New Hollands and banana shaped bales. My 68 was great at doing that - until we did a refurb and and adjusted everything as it should. IMHO the John Deere baler design, including the 24t is much more forgiving and have seen ratty 24t and 14t balers make beautiful brick shaped bales. So if you're not wrench inclined, I'd lean towards the JD.

Sickle mower can absolutely get it done.









But it must be properly adjusted and sharp! Sometimes the 3pt versions don't or won't mount up to the lift arm geometry of smaller compact tractors - so make sure the mower will fit before you buy. Sickle mowers also don't condition hay - like a haybine, so the hay will have to lay in the sun longer and with that is the risk of rain.

Lastly, if you can find another tractor, you might be better off - like an old Ford or Massey Ferguson with live or independent PTO. Maybe 3 or 4 thousand dollars for one around here.

Good luck!
Bill


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## Vol (Jul 5, 2009)

A 24T makes a very nice bale.....as pretty of a bale as ANY JD baler can make.....and they are very basic in mechanical design....simplicity at its finest. No bananas with a 24T.

Regards, Mike


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## CDennyRun (Nov 26, 2015)

Thanks everybody for the insight! I really appreciate it. Leeave96: Looks like you've done a great job with the 68! Great video. I'm an equipment mechanic by trade, so wrenching isn't a problem. I've never worked on knotters, or timed a baler, but don't fear the challenge.

It would be nice to find a 24T, but they're really hard to find around here. People like to keep them! Ha ha. The guy we're getting our hay from right now has some of the sloppiest bales I've ever seen. It's really frustrating!!! More of them blow out than don't.

I'm thinking maybe I'll try using my 1715, and if it's too brutal, I'll rent something bigger for baling until I can afford an old Ford 3000 or something. At least I can cut, ted and rake with what I have.

Thanks again for all the help!

Regards,

Chris


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## CDennyRun (Nov 26, 2015)

Mike120 said:


> Like everyone has said the baler is probably a bad idea. I had a Ford 1700 long ago that I hooked up to my old IH baler just to see how it would do. The little Ford didn't like it at all and it darn near beat me to death. You will likely ruin that little tractor. Do yourself and your tractor a favor and look at hay tools that are more appropriate to your equipment and operation:
> 
> http://www.agriquip.com/
> 
> http://www.smallfarminnovations.com/


I've looked into those, and would absolutely love to go that rout. Unfortunately I don't have the capital to make that happen. If I was going to make that kind of investment, I would have to make it a side business, and really get after it! Which is something I would seriously love to do, but don't have that kind of hay storage.

Do you still have the 1700? Those are awesome little tractors!

Regards,

Chris


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## RockmartGA (Jun 29, 2011)

Have you considered one of the small round balers? A round baler is smoother to operate as it doesn't have the back and forth motion of the plunger on a square baler.

I believe the HP requirements for a Hesston 530 round baler is around 30 hp. But, if you did't roll a full sized bale, you could probably get by with less. You would need a single remote hydraulic to lift the gate. Something to think about.


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## deadmoose (Oct 30, 2011)

RockmartGA said:


> Have you considered one of the small round balers? A round baler is smoother to operate as it doesn't have the back and forth motion of the plunger on a square baler.
> 
> I believe the HP requirements for a Hesston 530 round baler is around 30 hp. But, if you did't roll a full sized bale, you could probably get by with less. You would need a single remote hydraulic to lift the gate. Something to think about.


That tractor is too small unless you are just going to make an wrap cores. I ran my 5530 w 28.5 pto hp. That made it snort. And heat up if I wasn't careful. If I would have kept doing that, that tractor would have had a short life. I had loaded rears on it as well. CUTs are not made for farming. They do not have the heft. It is doable, but not advisable.

Might as well find an old ac rotobaler if you were going to go that small on rounds.


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## RockmartGA (Jun 29, 2011)

deadmoose said:


> That tractor is too small unless you are just going to make an wrap cores. I ran my 5530 w 28.5 pto hp. That made it snort. And heat up if I wasn't careful. If I would have kept doing that, that tractor would have had a short life.


Good to know.


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## Mike120 (May 4, 2009)

CDennyRun said:


> I've looked into those, and would absolutely love to go that rout. Unfortunately I don't have the capital to make that happen. If I was going to make that kind of investment, I would have to make it a side business, and really get after it! Which is something I would seriously love to do, but don't have that kind of hay storage.
> 
> Do you still have the 1700? Those are awesome little tractors!
> 
> ...


It was a good little tractor that I bought to pull an arena rack. It did that well and a lot of girls (my daughters students) learned to drive it way before they learned to drive cars. It finally blew a piston and sat for about a year before I could find a piston in PA from a junker and fix it. Finding parts for the Shibaura 2-banger was a real problem 'cause NH quit carrying them. In the meanwhile, I had bought a bigger rake and a JD 5105 to drag it around, so poor "little blue" didn't have a job and I sold it to my BIL to mow around his shop. I think he still has it.

The 1700 was a bit light on power and they improved it with the 3 cylinder engines in the 1710 and 1715......but I still wouldn't try to run a baler with them. I've also tried the baler on the 5105 just for the hell of it.....neither one of us was very happy.


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## endrow (Dec 15, 2011)

There's a doctor that lives down the street from me he bought a small compact and a small Baler and mower and rake at to play around with. He asked me for my advice on the main problem he was having he could not hook the stuff up to the tractor the drawbar was too low the PTO was too close to the drawbar the three point hitch didn't size up to anything because it was such a small category hitch. I left him borrow my IH 584 and it really worked out great to pull his small hay tools he went right out and bought a used IH 584. I think what he learned is in the Compact market even if i
the tractor does have adequate horsepower, due to the lightweight design of the tractor it may not be up to the task of operating any of the tools used in the hay making business.


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## endrow (Dec 15, 2011)

I saw this in the paper today


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## thendrix (May 14, 2015)

If you decide to look for a bigger tractor you might look at something besides the "name brands". I bought a Long 610 for hay work and I'm tickled pink with it. It's basically a Fiat. 64 pto hp and plenty heavy enough to handle my NH 273. I gave $3500 and haven't regretted a second of it. If you can make your tractor work then ok but don't do it anymore then you have to or any longer then you have to or you'll wind up ruining it.

You might also look at old gas tractors. I would think something along the lines of a WD, WD45, D15, D17, H or M Farmall, or something else along those lines would work.


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## glasswrongsize (Sep 15, 2015)

"They" make newer smaller equipment to fit your tractor, but it may be cheaper to buy the older bigger stuff (like the 24t) AND a bigger older tractor. I am not familiar with yours, but have a small tractor that I run a pto generator...pto too close to drawbar to work with baler's recommended alignment.
73, Mark

http://tractortoolsdirect.com/product-category/hay-making/


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## CDennyRun (Nov 26, 2015)

Mike120 said:


> It was a good little tractor that I bought to pull an arena rack. It did that well and a lot of girls (my daughters students) learned to drive it way before they learned to drive cars. It finally blew a piston and sat for about a year before I could find a piston in PA from a junker and fix it. Finding parts for the Shibaura 2-banger was a real problem 'cause NH quit carrying them. In the meanwhile, I had bought a bigger rake and a JD 5105 to drag it around, so poor "little blue" didn't have a job and I sold it to my BIL to mow around his shop. I think he still has it.
> 
> The 1700 was a bit light on power and they improved it with the 3 cylinder engines in the 1710 and 1715......but I still wouldn't try to run a baler with them. I've also tried the baler on the 5105 just for the hell of it.....neither one of us was very happy.


I'm sure you're thrilled with the JD. I'm surprised it had that big of issues with the baler though. I figured a tractor that size wouldn't have done half bad. I'm glad the old 1700 found a good home though!



endrow said:


> There's a doctor that lives down the street from me he bought a small compact and a small Baler and mower and rake at to play around with. He asked me for my advice on the main problem he was having he could not hook the stuff up to the tractor the drawbar was too low the PTO was too close to the drawbar the three point hitch didn't size up to anything because it was such a small category hitch. I left him borrow my IH 584 and it really worked out great to pull his small hay tools he went right out and bought a used IH 584. I think what he learned is in the Compact market even if i
> the tractor does have adequate horsepower, due to the lightweight design of the tractor it may not be up to the task of operating any of the tools used in the hay making business.


To my understanding the 1715 has a full sized cat-1 three point setup. I'm not familiar with the newer CUTS, but I know the SCUTS have pretty short cat-1 arms. Maybe the newer 20-30 something HP CUTS use a slightly smaller setup than the older 20-30HP tractors?

I'm not saying I have the right tractor for haying, but sure hope to get away with it for a bit. With recent vehicle issues, I'm going to be pretty strapped for a while! Odds are I won't have all the equipment to hay next season anyway. Maybe by the time I do, I could swing getting an older gas rig or something.

Chris


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## CDennyRun (Nov 26, 2015)

deadmoose said:


> For that small acreage and use you can make it work. Many previous discussions suggest looking for an old engine driven baler to reduce stress on the tractor.
> 
> Welcome to haytalk.


This is something I've been looking at for a while. It seems like they don't exist in my area. I find them in Eastern WA all the time, in good working order according to the seller. Problem is, I would pay a fortune to get one trucked over here. But I guess shipping it here wouldn't cost as much as a buying a tractor strictly for haying!

I've been watching this guy for a while now http://spokane.craigslist.org/grd/5317302526.html

I just pray I can find a deal like this closer to me when the funds become available.


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## BWfarms (Aug 3, 2015)

I wouldn't even bother haying if you're not willing to get a larger pony. Just cross fence the 4acres and rotational graze or strip graze it with a set of hot wires. Buy the hay.


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## MtnHerd (Jul 6, 2011)

I have a New Holland 68 and run it with a diesel Ford 3000 pretty easy, but you can feel each hit of the plunger. I don't use it on my steep fields (hook to the John Deere 5205) as I don't think it has enough weight to hold back, but it is pretty steep ground. Flat fields and moderate slopes it does great. I agree with the others in that you should try to find an older, heavier tractor to use the baler with and rake with your current one. The older tractors were built much heavier than the newer similar horsepower tractor, and I agree that you will cause some damage to your tractor if you run the baler a lot with it. If you had to run a baler in a pinch is one thing, but planning on it being the primary baler tractor you could really hurt the tractor that you love.

As for the Tedder/rake combo, I have never heard of anyone that have been happy with them. It seems the New Hollands are better, but you can probably find an old rollabar rake and old Tedder for not much more than the combo and be much happier. If you found a good deal on the combo you could get by a while until you find the rake and Tedder you like.


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## Mike120 (May 4, 2009)

CDennyRun said:


> I'm sure you're thrilled with the JD. I'm surprised it had that big of issues with the baler though. I figured a tractor that size wouldn't have done half bad. I'm glad the old 1700 found a good home though!


The JD 5105 would likely handle the baler OK, but I'm also dragging a Hoelscher accumulator behind the baler and I don't like to push the limits on equipment. It uses too much fuel and wears out the equipment. Between me and the tractor, I was probably the most unhappy because I usually bale with a 7710 and I'm spoiled by the MUCH better ride and AC. Both of us are happier with the 5105 limited to an arena rake, a finish mower and a little fence sprayer. I use a JD 5325 for the tedder, rake, and bale grapple.....it's got more spring under the seat than the 5105 and I'm too old to bounce around that much.

I'd almost try and talk you out of the rake/tedder combo. I've got a Vermeer TR90 that I picked up cheap. I used to use it as a windrow fluffer for rained on windrows. It's way too small to be much use for me but for only 4 acres, it might be perfect for your operation. I recommended one to a guy I know in your state, he found a used one and he likes it. You might look for one of them, they're usually pretty cheap.


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## Ray 54 (Aug 2, 2014)

That baler with the engine is the perfect answer for your needs. Balers with there own engine are still the norm in my limited area. Still a few pulled with IH H and M or JD A or B.I have baled more tons with a JD A than I will do with other tractors. Some of it where many would not take a A with nothing behind it.I still miss not baling with my old A.

The old A at idle in 4th gear,the Wisconsin v4 on the governor spitting out 300 or more 120 lb balers an hour with NH290 ,3 wire. Get to the corner and hit the throttle and dodging bales and picking up the new windrow,dropping back to a idle.

When you get to the point of buying a baler, I would not be afraid to pull a baler with good tires several hundred miles with a pickup. Pulled to old NH 290 a lot with a 75 1/2 ton Chevy,and a 2 string is a lot liter so even safer.Good luck in doing it your way with what you can afford.


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## GOOD HAY (Aug 8, 2010)

I will give you credit for wanting to go ahead and try. I agree that the big bottleneck is the tractor running the baler. An easy way around that is to just not rake too much hay into a windrow, simple. Make sure that the hay is crispy dry and the hay will just disappear into the baler. It may be time consuming and more expensive than other alternatives but you are doing something that you obviously want to do. I first started baling hay in 1964 with a Massey 22 and an International 45 baler when I was 11 years old. I don't remember any big problems and there was no live pto on a Massey 22. We cut with a 6 or 7 foot mower and just raked that one swath into a windrow. I think we probably did 10 acres or so in those days. Good luck and let me know if there is any way I can help.


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## CDennyRun (Nov 26, 2015)

BWfarms said:


> I wouldn't even bother haying if you're not willing to get a larger pony. Just cross fence the 4acres and rotational graze or strip graze it with a set of hot wires. Buy the hay.


If the property was closer, I would probably do that for the interim. It's too fr away, has no barn, and my wife wouldn't let that fly. Ha ha. The fence would have to be redone too.

Part of the reason I want to hay my own is, most of the hay around here is really expensive. The affordable good hay we're getting now is really limited in quantities, and the bales fall apart if their handled more than once. We've had a ton of problems with this guy. It's also something I've always wanted to do. Looks like I'm going to go with a baler with a Wisconsin on it.



Ray 54 said:


> That baler with the engine is the perfect answer for your needs. Balers with there own engine are still the norm in my limited area. Still a few pulled with IH H and M or JD A or B.I have baled more tons with a JD A than I will do with other tractors. Some of it where many would not take a A with nothing behind it.I still miss not baling with my old A.
> 
> The old A at idle in 4th gear,the Wisconsin v4 on the governor spitting out 300 or more 120 lb balers an hour with NH290 ,3 wire. Get to the corner and hit the throttle and dodging bales and picking up the new windrow,dropping back to a idle.
> 
> When you get to the point of buying a baler, I would not be afraid to pull a baler with good tires several hundred miles with a pickup. Pulled to old NH 290 a lot with a 75 1/2 ton Chevy,and a 2 string is a lot liter so even safer.Good luck in doing it your way with what you can afford.


It's always great to see the guys around here still using those old A,B H's and M's. Great old workhorses! Eventually I'd love to get a IH M or something as a restoration project. We have a pretty incredible tractor show new us, that we'd had a blast participating in!

And you're right. I think I've made the decision to go with a self powered baler.

Chris


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## 8350HiTech (Jul 26, 2013)

You could add an engine to a typical pto baler if you can't find any engine balers in your area. It can't be terribly complicated.


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## CDennyRun (Nov 26, 2015)

GOOD HAY said:


> I will give you credit for wanting to go ahead and try. I agree that the big bottleneck is the tractor running the baler. An easy way around that is to just not rake too much hay into a windrow, simple. Make sure that the hay is crispy dry and the hay will just disappear into the baler. It may be time consuming and more expensive than other alternatives but you are doing something that you obviously want to do. I first started baling hay in 1964 with a Massey 22 and an International 45 baler when I was 11 years old. I don't remember any big problems and there was no live pto on a Massey 22. We cut with a 6 or 7 foot mower and just raked that one swath into a windrow. I think we probably did 10 acres or so in those days. Good luck and let me know if there is any way I can help.


Thanks a bunch! I really can't wait to get going with this. I appreciate the support. I'll definitely let you know when I have questions!

Chris


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## CDennyRun (Nov 26, 2015)

8350HiTech said:


> You could add an engine to a typical pto baler if you can't find any engine balers in your area. It can't be terribly complicated.


I've been thinking about that. I have the tools and know-how. I suppose it'll depend on what kind of deals I can find locally. What would you say the minimum HP would be for something like a NH 68? 22 hp-ish? Edit: I suppose I could just look up the HP requirements. Ha ha

Chris


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## 8350HiTech (Jul 26, 2013)

CDennyRun said:


> I've been thinking about that. I have the tools and know-how. I suppose it'll depend on what kind of deals I can find locally. What would you say the minimum HP would be for something like a NH 68? 22 hp-ish? Edit: I suppose I could just look up the HP requirements. Ha ha
> 
> Chris


The horsepower requirements are going to include the power necessary to move the baler. If you need expert advice on mounting an engine to a baler, calling one of the Amish baler shops in Lancaster PA or elsewhere might be your best bet.


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## deadmoose (Oct 30, 2011)

For a tractor for the baler, it isn't as much the horsepower as the weight. CUTs dont have the iron built in.

For your acreage, you could probably find a servicable "big tractor" for a grand or two. Farmall m, h, etc.

http://www.tractordata.com/farm-tractors/000/2/9/291-farmall-m.html

http://www.tractordata.com/farm-tractors/000/2/9/290-farmall-h.html

http://www.tractordata.com/farm-tractors/005/9/3/5930-ford-1720.html

Look at weight. A little H has at least a half a ton on the Ford.


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## CDennyRun (Nov 26, 2015)

8350HiTech said:


> The horsepower requirements are going to include the power necessary to move the baler. If you need expert advice on mounting an engine to a baler, calling one of the Amish baler shops in Lancaster PA or elsewhere might be your best bet.


This is a great idea. I never would have thought to get in touch with them. Thank you!

Chris


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## rankrank1 (Mar 30, 2009)

If you dead set on baling with your current tractor then forget the 68 and be on the look out for a NH65 baler. The 65 is actually newer than the 68 and makes a smaller bale. NH65 makes a 12x16xwhatever length you want bale. I have one and it behind my Kubota L285 for years. Smallest baler you can buy from a mainstream manufacturer and the only baler I would consider trying to run with your current tractor.

If you do not think plunger mass makes a difference then do a little experiment. Put a baseball in your hand and push your arm out away from your body and then jerk it back once you reach full extension full extension as fast as you can. Next put a bowling ball in your hand and do the same. (Let me know how your elbow and shoulder socket feel after doing this just once). This inertia is happening every plunger stroke on a baler. Yeah the flywheel helps smooth it but not 100%.


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## CDennyRun (Nov 26, 2015)

rankrank1 said:


> If you dead set on baling with your current tractor then forget the 68 and be on the look out for a NH65 baler. The 65 is actually newer than the 68 and makes a smaller bale. NH65 makes a 12x16xwhatever length you want bale. I have one and it behind my Kubota L285 for years. Smallest baler you can buy from a mainstream manufacturer and the only baler I would consider trying to run with your current tractor.
> 
> If you do not think plunger mass makes a difference then do a little experiment. Put a baseball in your hand and push your arm out away from your body and then jerk it back once you reach full extension full extension as fast as you can. Next put a bowling ball in your hand and do the same. (Let me know how your elbow and shoulder socket feel after doing this just once). This inertia is happening every plunger stroke on a baler. Yeah the flywheel helps smooth it but not 100%.


That's great to know! Thanks for sharing. I'll keep my eyes pealed for one, if I can't find one with a motor.

Much appreciated.

Chris


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## glasswrongsize (Sep 15, 2015)

Chris, I know it would be a heck of a haul or shipping cost, but here is a 65

http://carbondale.craigslist.org/grd/5351586489.html

73, Mark


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## thendrix (May 14, 2015)

Not a bad looking baler from the outside


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## CDennyRun (Nov 26, 2015)

glasswrongsize said:


> Chris, I know it would be a heck of a haul or shipping cost, but here is a 65
> 
> http://carbondale.craigslist.org/grd/5351586489.html
> 
> 73, Mark


Oh boy, that's perfect! If I had the funds for it, and shipping, I would jump on it. Unfortunately I just had to replace the 5.4L engine in my F-150, and that ate my baler money. It cost about what it would for that baler with shipping! I'll just keep my faith in the Lord, and know that he knows what he's doing better than I do. Ha ha. Things will happen the way they are supposed to.

Thanks for sharing!

Chris


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## glasswrongsize (Sep 15, 2015)

CDennyRun said:


> Oh boy, that's perfect! If I had the funds for it, and shipping, I would jump on it. Unfortunately I just had to replace the 5.4L engine in my F-150, and that ate my baler money. It cost about what it would for that baler with shipping! I'll just keep my faith in the Lord, and know that he knows what he's doing better than I do. Ha ha. Things will happen the way they are supposed to.
> 
> Thanks for sharing!
> 
> Chris


That's the same attitude that carries me thru the trials and tribulations of haying...that and some bourbon. 

73, Mark


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## luke strawwalker (Jul 31, 2014)

CDennyRun said:


> Oh boy, that's perfect! If I had the funds for it, and shipping, I would jump on it. Unfortunately I just had to replace the 5.4L engine in my F-150, and that ate my baler money. It cost about what it would for that baler with shipping! I'll just keep my faith in the Lord, and know that he knows what he's doing better than I do. Ha ha. Things will happen the way they are supposed to.
> 
> Thanks for sharing!
> 
> Chris


Shipping?? ROAD TRIP!!! LOL

Later! OL JR


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