# New (to me) truck... protecting the trailer harness hookups?



## Josh in WNY (Sep 7, 2010)

Well, after 9 years of running around with the old Ford Explorer SportTrac, I bit the bullet and got a 2015 F250 (I know, a pretty big jump, but it was a great deal). I'm going to have it undercoated and wheel well liners put in the back, but I am also wondering about the hookup for the trailer lights/brakes. What (if anything) should I be using to help keep them from getting corroded? The one pin on my old SportTrac was so corroded that I had no running lights, only turn signals and brakes (I just made sure to do all my hauling during the day  ). Would dielectric grease keep things in good order or is there something better to use?

I suppose this same question could be asked about the wiring hookups on tractors, too.

Thanks in advance, Josh.


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## slowzuki (Mar 8, 2011)

Ford silicone brake pin slider lube / dielectric grease. Squirt a bunch in regularly but also they are just pollack receptacles and cost about 6$ to replace.


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## luke strawwalker (Jul 31, 2014)

First make SURE that nobody uses those damn scotchlocks on the wiring... those things are absolutely worthless and create breaks in the insulation and pinch points on the wire where corrosion starts and breaks the wire ultimately. Make sure all connections are either weatherpacks with dielectric lube, or soldered and then delete v with shrink tubing... Go over that with liquid tape for extra insurance...

Keep everything dry and sealed Is half the battle... spray contacts with dielectric contact cleaner every time you plug n unplug to prevent corrosion...

Later and congrats! OL J R


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## Tim/South (Dec 12, 2011)

I put my trailer end in an old butter container, just cut out a slot for the end to fit and snap the lid on. That end is important as well.

On the truck I like to have the goose neck receptacle mounted side ways to keep rain from soaking it. You see some mounted facing up. The one on the bumper end is already going to be horizontal.

I agree with soldering connections and shrink tubing.


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## Josh in WNY (Sep 7, 2010)

Thanks for the help. I'll be sure to check how the back side of the connector is sealed up. I don't have my own trailer yet, but I like the old butter container idea for the trailer side of the connection. I'm hoping to not get into having a goose neck on it, but we'll see what happens. If I do go that route, I'll keep your recommendation of the connector orientation in mind.


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## r82230 (Mar 1, 2016)

Josh, gotta agree with Luke, use liquid electric tape on everything (even the shrink tubing). Since I started doing this it been a blessing.

Larry


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## swmnhay (Jun 13, 2008)

A lot of newer vehicles has a connection that you just disconnect and add in the trailer lights and reconnect.No splicing needed.


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## somedevildawg (Jun 20, 2011)

Congrats josh, you're gonna like that F250.........


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## JD3430 (Jan 1, 2012)

Both my trucks' trailer receptacles snap lids have broken off. Would like to replace them, but something tells me I'll have to replace the entire receptacle.


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## Josh in WNY (Sep 7, 2010)

First thing I'm going to do it hit the receptacles with some compressed air and get the dirt cleaned out. Everything is still in pretty nice shape at the moment, so hopefully I can keep it that way. One of my coworkers said he may have a spray can of contact clearer left over from his days towing a race car trailer. If he can't find it, I might see about buying some myself. I like the idea of the spray better than just trying to shove dielectric grease in there and not getting everything covered.

Devildawg, I'm really liking the truck so far. It's the 6.2L V8 gas engine that's been up-fitted with the compressed natural gas system (CNG), so I can run on natural gas or gasoline. Currently I'm filling up the CNG at a station near where I work but am planing on putting in a filling station at the farm before too long (tied right into the gas well we have). I was looking at getting an F150 with the same setup, but would have had to order it new from the dealer. Buying this used 2015 saved me $20k and I got a lot more truck.

JD3430, The covers are still on mine, but I would be concerned about not having them too, especially with snow (road salt) season approaching in this neck of the woods. The other thing I didn't like when I used my uncles trailer is that the spring loaded cover for the 4-pin connector put a lot of side loading on the trailer harness when it was hooked up.


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## r82230 (Mar 1, 2016)

Josh in WNY said:


> JD3430, The covers are still on mine, but I would be concerned about not having them too, especially with snow (road salt) season approaching in this neck of the woods. The other thing I didn't like when I used my uncles trailer is that the spring loaded cover for the 4-pin connector put a lot of side loading on the trailer harness when it was hooked up.


Josh,

I use the 7 pin RV to 4 pin adapter for just this reason (side loading 4 pin by the spring loaded cover), as an FYI.

Larry


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## Josh in WNY (Sep 7, 2010)

r82230 said:


> Josh,
> 
> I use the 7 pin RV to 4 pin adapter for just this reason (side loading 4 pin by the spring loaded cover), as an FYI.
> 
> Larry


Sounds like I might have something else to pick up at the auto store when I stop in for the contact cleaner.


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## slowzuki (Mar 8, 2011)

The little flippy cover is important it keeps your 7 way plug in the socket.

Ford and dodge use the universal socket on the vehicle side harness - vehicle plug to pollock or whatever the name is - again from there it's a 5-10$ plug and cover. They have fancy combo 4 and 7 way ones, you can plug a semi style round pin adapter in there etc. cheap to replace when you break it.


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