# Tractor Splitting Stands



## LukeS (Feb 24, 2015)

Can we see some home made stands.


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## Farmerbrown2 (Sep 25, 2018)

I hope somebody has some pic's I need to make some too!


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## Wethay (Jul 17, 2015)

What are you splitting by the way? Into how many pieces?


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## LukeS (Feb 24, 2015)

Wethay said:


> What are you splitting by the way? Into how many pieces?


John Deere 3020, replacing engine seal.


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## Wethay (Jul 17, 2015)

you might read JD 2030 Clutch Blues posted earlier. I've never used stands so I can't help you there. A couple of thoughts, A old temperature gauge can be cut and the probe end and nut saved, use it to plug the hole when you split a tractor and it saves draining and refilling the coolant. Think about removing the three point arms, it might save you a bruised shin and a couple cuss words that can be saved for latter use.


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## Tx Jim (Jun 30, 2014)

I have no photos but splitting stands used at dealer where I was employed both front & rear stands had adjustable height caster wheels. We never removed 3 pt hitch for a split. We always left frt stationary and rolled rear end back/forward. I'd recommend to cut the heads off 2 long 3/4''bolts to serve as guide bolts on each side for reassemmbly


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## SVFHAY (Dec 5, 2008)

Crude but workable, I just put Jack under rear half before removing last bolts and weld these brackets to fit front half, roll away. Long headless bolts for dowels is a good idea. Whatever method you decide to do stabilize that front half very well.


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## Josh in WNY (Sep 7, 2010)

I'll try and remember to dig out the stands my dad made when I get home and take some pictures. Basically they are two chunks of 4 inch wide channel iron with a slot cut in the middle of the web for a bolt to go through and attach to the engine rails. He then used a small piece of angle iron which connects to a second hole on the channel iron and another bolt hole on the engine rail to act as a brace. The bottoms of the channel iron had plates welded on with the edges turned up to act as skids (using wheels would be nicer, but the skids worked just as well. My dad made these for a 3020 that he used at a citrus grove he used to work at, but we've also used them on our 4020 and they work pretty good. We use the headless-bolt idea as well and it really helps line things back up and a couple of wood wedges between the front axle and the frame help to stabilize the front end. We also roll the front away from the rear, but either way works.

Another option for the coolant gage would be to remove it from the dash (not disconnect it from the manifold), but that might be more of a hassle than draining the system with the way all the gages are put in. I like the plug idea that Wethay had, might have to try that since I too need to put a rear main seal in our 4020.


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## bluefarmer (Oct 10, 2010)

A cork works good to plug off engine coolant.


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## Tx Jim (Jun 30, 2014)

Josh in WNY said:


> Another option for the coolant gage would be to remove it from the dash (not disconnect it from the manifold), but that might be more of a hassle than draining the system with the way all the gages are put in. I like the plug idea that Wethay had, might have to try that since I too need to put a rear main seal in our 4020.


Temp gauge on 3020/4020 comes out the face of the dash not the backside so there's no way to separate tractor halves very far without removing capillary tube from cyl head


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## LukeS (Feb 24, 2015)

Thank you all for your help. I will be replacing all the fluids in it.


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## Josh in WNY (Sep 7, 2010)

Tx Jim said:


> Temp gauge on 3020/4020 comes out the face of the dash not the backside so there's no way to separate tractor halves very far without removing capillary tube from cyl head


Hmm, when I was putting a new wiring kit in our 4020, the gages were held in from the back with a bracket. Was this another early vs. late model difference or did someone mess with the gages on mine? I'm pretty sure my 2520 is the same way.


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## Tx Jim (Jun 30, 2014)

Josh in WNY said:


> Hmm, when I was putting a new wiring kit in our 4020, the gages were held in from the back with a bracket. Was this another early vs. late model difference or did someone mess with the gages on mine? I'm pretty sure my 2520 is the same way.


Josh

You're correct. The gauge fits in the hole in the dash face held in place by a bracket that slips on 2 studs held on by 2 nuts. IIRC early & late model gauges were attached to dash in the same fashion.


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## Farmineer95 (Aug 11, 2014)

Mine is similar to svfhay. But no wheels on bottom. I have pipe big enough for 1" all thread to adjust height with nut on bottom of pipe. Use a floor jack for rearend and roll it back. Sometimes much easier to roll front away tho, Fyi.


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## Shetland Sheepdog (Mar 31, 2011)

Split a Ford 5000 for clutch job.
Blocked rear wheels & supported rear with bottle jack under transmission.
Supported front with floor jack under crank case which allowed rolling front away from rear.
Yes, we used wedges between front pedestal and axle.
We figured front would roll easier than rear with loaded 18.4x30s.


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## Farmerbrown2 (Sep 25, 2018)

Just google tractor splitting then go to images lots of pictures there.


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## duramax (Dec 18, 2010)

I can get pictures of mine if you still need them......


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## mlappin (Jun 25, 2009)

I use a heavy cart that I've cut down, just a 3x3" frame with heavy casters on each corner, then I have a set of heavy angle irons that sit in pockets on the frame. If the existing pockets don't work for what I'm doing I just tack weld the angle irons to it and blow em off later.

I've split our JD400 Backhoe twice with it and also split an articulated four wheel drive to replace the center pivot bearing. Placed the cart under the back half of the tractor, then blocked the wheels on the front half and placed an air operated hydraulic jack un the nose and under the front half of the pivot, worked slicker than snot, one guy on each tire of the back half rolled it right away from the front half.


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