# JD 5525 with cab, switch does not have power



## Palmettokat (Jul 10, 2017)

All was good when parked it Thursday evening. Went to crank it today and when switched on nothing. Dash does not light up and gauges do not move as they should. Checked battery voltage and it is about 15 volts holds when key is turned to start. Flashers work as doe the other lights and turning key to start they continue to work with no dimming.

Battery voltage is good. Connections seem to be good as light are not dimming when key is turned to start.

No accessories can be turned on.

Have checked all fuses been checked that I can find. Bank in left fender inside the cab and three under the steering column. Not aware of any other.

I do have power to the power bar in the fuse plan in the left fender and below the fuse link just few inches from the batter.

There is no clicking working the key. Makes me think there is another fuse block I am not finding.

Thanks for the help.

Kenneth


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## broadriverhay (Jun 13, 2014)

Sorry I can’t help you . I don’t have any experience with that model . Good luck. It will be interesting to hear what the issue ends up being.


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## newholland650 (Apr 20, 2015)

Have you pulled out the fuses to physically check them. Sure sounds like a fuse. I’d check and clean the battery terminals as well. Can’t be nothing major. My 5410 done it and it was a blown 10amp fuse under steering column


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## somedevildawg (Jun 20, 2011)

First off Kenneth if you have 15vdc at the battery something is amiss.....perhaps with your meter. The battery should only have 12.2,12.4 something like that at the most. The lights will not dim unless the started is pulling amperage. I would first start by seeing if my starter had voltage at the solenoid (small wire) and of course check the larger wires as well....you have a fuse problem I believe but most concerning is WHY? I would get on the horn with JD and see if they have a service bulletin for this problem....it may be a frequent issue and they know the culprit. Tough to troubleshoot when it screws up just sitting there.....good luck


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## bluefarmer (Oct 10, 2010)

Don't know about JD but if it was ford/ newholland pto might be on, it has been known for people around here to walk by and turn them on so that safety switch will keep it from starting!


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## NewBerlinBaler (May 30, 2011)

PTO or the transmission is in gear. On a Kubota, the left-hand reverser not in neutral will cause this.


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## Palmettokat (Jul 10, 2017)

If a safety switch was the issue the gauges still come on and when you were to try to start it would not engage the starter.

I have pulled the fuses (there) from under the steering column and about ten in the left wheel cover and visually looked the fuse link in them. Did not test with meter.

I have found about two year old threads on this.

As to voltage at the battery, meter tested with is reasonable new to me and think had it set for DC, might not have.

Thanks for each of your replies.

Last time I used the tractor was hooking up a monitor and got a good spark in doing so and just knew a fuse would have been blown. But the monitor powered up, think it may be related to that.


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## Greasy30 (Mar 15, 2010)

Try unhooking the monitor. If it starts then you know the problem is with the monitor or connection causing something to trigger the tractor to not start.


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## somedevildawg (Jun 20, 2011)

Palmettokat said:


> If a safety switch was the issue the gauges still come on and when you were to try to start it would not engage the starter.
> 
> I have pulled the fuses (there) from under the steering column and about ten in the left wheel cover and visually looked the fuse link in them. Did not test with meter.
> 
> ...


When troubleshooting 12vdc circuits a GOOD test light with a good ground is a must....don't even fool around with a multimeter unless you just want to or need to test continuity. Tell me more about the spark? Sparks ain't good....we need to know about sparks  when did it spark? Did the tractor continue to operate after the spark? Did you shut it down and never got it to crank back up....
Anytime a circuit is "completed" ie. The device power circuit is receiving 12+ -, there will always be a spark, but generally it's not visible and very small. What monitor was this, a JD monitor uses quite a bit of amperage and as a result has a purty large service wire, does it go to the convienence plugs on the 5525 or the bat? At any rate, I'm with you....were there's spark there's fire. I would want to know more.....
Call JD service in a.m. And see if they have any service advisories for that model with that problem, they should do that for you....if not, let me know and I'll axe  my guy......he's gonna want me to put down the axe but he'll get it for me . Good luck Kat


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## Jimmy Bartlett (Aug 17, 2015)

Those have a cold start sensor that will blow ignition fuse when it goes bad. Think it is on block beside injection pump. Tractor will run fine with the sensor unplugged.


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## somedevildawg (Jun 20, 2011)

jcbag said:


> Those have a cold start sensor that will blow ignition fuse when it goes bad. Think it is on block beside injection pump. Tractor will run fine with the sensor unplugged.


I think he's right Kat....I remember a thread about this very problem iirc...I found it ironic that JD still had problems with the cold start feature on the 55xx tractors because they've always seemed to have problems for years with that circuit.


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## pettibone (Jul 18, 2015)

Had a similar problem on my 6400, was running fine shut it off to unhook mower, went to start it back up and everything was dead. It blew a main 30 amp fuse. After fooling around with it figured out the neutral start switch was the problem, I bypassed that and tractor ran fine although nothing electronic worked finally saw that in the process of fooling around with the fuses one of two diodes fell out and was buried on the floor by rubbish. Took two weeks to figure that out.


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## Palmettokat (Jul 10, 2017)

As normal you guys did it. First thing, was proven I need new glasses, ugh. I finally got printout large enough to read to read so finally knew what fuse was the one for the dash and pulled it and looked at it and boy was it near impossible to tell it was blown. Replaced it, 20 amp, turned the key on and for a split second dash powered up and heard fuse blow, Replaced and tired again and did the same thing. I had read about the cold start sensor and unplugged it and it worked and did not blow fuse. Engine cranked right up. Now need to get replacement part.

Thanks to each of you.

somedevildawg, I used to do electrical work on houses, apartments and hotel and then to household appliances. Back then did not mind working on live circuit. Got older by the grace of God and realize, I do not like live circuits and do not like any spark, especially if I am part of the circuit.


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