# NH 570 baler and NH 1002 bale wagon



## Goatman (Jun 11, 2010)

I'm looking at a NH 570 baler. It is either a 2000 or 2001 model. The guy who owns it now bought it when it had 500 bales ran through it and now he believes it probably has only baled 3500 bales its entire life as he used very little. It has the bale chute and hyd tension. Always been stored inside. What are your thoughts on this baler and what is an appropriate price??

The second thing I am looking at is a NH 1002 bale stacker wagon. Always stored inside but does have faded paint. Any thoughts on these and appropriate price for one?

All help is appreciated!


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## Josh in WNY (Sep 7, 2010)

I've never had a NH 570, but from the comments I've seen on this site, they are a good baler. Just make sure it is adjusted correctly, which is true for any baler.

As far as the 1002, that is a fairly old model and only handles a maximum of 56 bales to a load (55 bales with one tie tier). It does not have the auto-tie for making the tie tier and I don't think that it has the push off pads for setting off the stack. Also, there is no way that a small stacker wagon like that is going to keep up with the 570 baler. Given that you are in Iowa, there should be newer model stacker wagons that are higher capacity and have the tie tier and push-off pads. I would look for a 1033 (this is the model I have), 1034, 1037 or 1038 model (if you want to stick with a pull type stacker wagon). I'm not sure what the better self propelled wagon models are as I have never run one of them. The models that I listed are all 105 bale models with push off pads and most have the tie tier as an option. The 1034 and 1038 also had a single bale unload option. FYI, the 1033 was replaced by the 1037 and the 1034 was replaced by the 1038.


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## Goatman (Jun 11, 2010)

Thanks Josh. The bale wagon was appealing to me our shed isn't too tall. I am also only running about 40 acres of hay so I don't necessarily need high capacity. He wants $1950 for the wagon which I though wasn't bad at all as it would be saving me a lot of manual labor!


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## hay wilson in TX (Jan 28, 2009)

1002, that is a fairly old model and only handles a maximum of 56 bales to a load (55 bales with one tie tier). 
Correct as far as that goes, but the 1002 does have th so called Auto Tie and hydraulic push off feet.

The even older NH 1000 & NH 1010 does not have the auto tie and you have to tie the stack in place and PULL the wagon out from under the stack.

At one time I used both a NH 1010 & 1002. The automatic and less work 1002 with my wife on that tractor and me with the 1010 we could have 55 bales on the wagon and on the way to the barn at the same time. It was handy with two people backing the machine into the barn to set the stack. BUT alone with no help I can put more hay in the barn in less time alone using a NH 1003 which holds 83 bales. Having three bales across is a help.
One thing I learned, we need to go the same direction as the baler picking up the hay.

One thing you must do with a bale wagon is count strokes/bale for uniform length. 
It is important to have you barn laid out for a stack wagon. Otherwise use a accumulator and grab.

Using a bale wagon and a NH 315 baler I have a one man operation.

If you are serious get an operators manual for the baler and the Balewagon.

A 1002 should be less than $2,000. I paid $3,500 for mine new thirty years ago. 
A square baler today is worth as much now as it did when new. A square baler will rust out but as long as there are parts the baler will be just fine. 
If you do buy, besides a operators manual you will want a parts book for your machine.

New Holland has or had a set of plans for the different balewagons. My barn with the 1002 & 1010 put 4 stacks wide with a 36 ft clear span. With the 1003 the barn holds three stacks wide, but also holds 400 bales more than the barn full with the 1002 did.


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## covenanthay (Oct 2, 2009)

"One thing I learned, we need to go the same direction as the baler picking up the hay."

I have ran bale wagons for years and never found this to be the case. Can you explain why you believe this to be true.


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## hay rake (Dec 31, 2011)

it might be a texas thing. i have always been able to follow the baler or go against it. actually i prefer to go against the baler with a 1037 because with the pick up on the left i am turning into the bales instead of away from them on the ends of the field. if you do decide to go with a bigger wagon josh said to go with a 1033 but given the choice you may want a 1037 for these reasons. the 1037 replaced the 1033 and are basically the same machine except for a few small changes that are actually quite big when in use. the first is the pick up the 1037 has longer guides with less angle to better guide the bales in. this is another thing you want to check on any wagon you look at . the pick up is extremely expensive to repair with new parts ( about 3000 new) so when wrecked they usually junk an otherwise good wagon. second the rolling rack on a 1033 is spring return a 1037 is hydraulic return. third the push off feet on a 1033 have 2 cylinders and don't always push even. the 1037 has 1 cylinder that pushes both shoes evenly. this really helps to unload a good cube. as for the 570 if new holland built it it's the best small baler that can be built. the only difference between a 570 and a 575 is the width of the pick up. everything that matters is the same. we use a 575 but still have a 276 that was new in 1974 and will still keep up with a new baler. i even think it works better now than when it was new. hope this helped


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## hay wilson in TX (Jan 28, 2009)

covenanthay said:


> "One thing I learned, we need to go the same direction as the baler picking up the hay."
> 
> I have ran bale wagons for years and never found this to be the case. Can you explain why you believe this to be true.


Well it goes back a bit in time, I noticed that *when* the wife, with the 1002 went Clock-wise she would have to jump off and give the bales on the first table a nudge. Made for some poor domistic relations.

I usually I picked up going clock-wise and did not have any problems. I was assuming it was something with the 1002. Then a neighbor mentioned the idea of going in the direction fo the baler.

My idea is the cut side is rubbing against the fromt of the first table. Going with the baler the cut knap is to the rear rather than pushing against the knap. 
It appears to also be true with the NH 1003.

It may be a difference in the design of the two axil larger machines.

For the record the 1010 used the hydrolics to return the load rack while the 1002 & 1003 both use a spring. For me I find the spring return uses less time and attention. The only advantage of the hydrolics was to slide a partial load back so I could stack a partial load. Normally I just leave a partial load on the wagon and finish the load off at the next field.


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## Josh in WNY (Sep 7, 2010)

Man, I didn't check in all day and quite a few post went up. Anyway, if the 1002 does have the pushoff pads and auto-tie, it will work a lot better for you. As you mentioned, it will save you a lot of labor. If the specifications I found online are correct, the overhead clearance for stacking with the 1002 (and any of the newer pull types) is 13.5 feet. Even if you can't back inside and unload, you can set the stack off near the door and move the bales in fairly quickly. One thing that I found interesting when we went to using our 1033 instead of the kicker wagons was that even thought the hay is still being run up the elevator, it goes faster. The only thing I can think of is that I have all the hay waiting for my crew when they get there at 5 or 6. When I used the kicker wagons, I had to have them there earlier to keep an empty wagon available for the baler and there was time wasted in moving the wagons around, etc.

If the wagon is running and ready to go (you might want to have the guy hook it to a tractor and cycle the tables, etc.) then $1950 seems like a really good deal. The other thing to consider is that if you get this wagon and find out you do want a bigger one, you can trade/sell this one and put the money towards the newer one (and you'll alread be experienced at using them).

Hay Wilson, I have never had a problem going either direction with my stacker wagon, but I don't dought your feelings on it. In my experience, some machines just like to be run a particular way. I know I've run JD 336 balers other than the one I have and they had no problem working at a full 540 rpm on the pto. With ours you have to run it a little slower or it will start to miss knots. Get the right speed with it and you'll bale an entire summer without missing a tie (unless the idiot loading the twine doesn't do his job right!).


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## RockmartGA (Jun 29, 2011)

FYI, here is a good site with balewagon specs: Sod Buster Sales Inc.- New Holland Used Bale Wagons


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