# Oliver Baler Question



## Hobby Farmer KS (Jul 4, 2010)

I am new to this forum. I have been baling about 10 to 20 acres for a few years now. This year I started having shear bolt problems on my Oliver 720 Baler. When I looked at it, it had a gash in the bushing in the fly wheel. I was still able to limp through while waiting for a new bushing from the AGCO dealer. The problem is it is press fit in there and I am not sure exactly the best way to change the bushing. Also the last shear bolt pushed the bushing about a washer's width out of the fly wheel. Now I am debating about limping through the last 10 acres or so be for trying to fix it or add a washer to cover the gash in the bushing. What is the best way to remove and install the new bushing?

Any advice would be appreciated.


----------



## downtownjr (Apr 8, 2008)

PM your e-mail to me and I will send a couple of pages out the parts manual. That may allow you to at least look at the diagram and form a plan. It is a Hesston 4500 manual, but it is the same baler as an Oliver 720. A little background on why they are the same is that Hesston bought the Oliver brand baler and used that model for three years until they were ready to release the inline models in which they purchased the plans from Moline. Great baler, I have run a thousand bales a year the past two years through the Hesston without missing a knot after I fixed a mistake to the knotters made by my brother.


----------



## Hobby Farmer KS (Jul 4, 2010)

WHat do you mean by PM? my address is [email protected]


----------



## downtownjr (Apr 8, 2008)

I am sorry, Private Message, there is a private message tab at the top of the page. It allows you send messages to folks. I will try to scan the pages tonight or tomorrow latest and get them to you. Hope they are helpful.


----------



## Hobby Farmer KS (Jul 4, 2010)

Thanks. Have you had to change the bushing in yours at all?


----------



## downtownjr (Apr 8, 2008)

I have not had to change them. I ask my buddy with an Oliver 620 if he ever has. The file should be in your e-mail with the parts manual. Let me know how it goes. Best of luck and take care.

Regards,
Jim


----------



## Hobby Farmer KS (Jul 4, 2010)

I am half way there. I bought a cheap brass punch at harbor Freight. I unhooked the PTO clutch assembly from the flywheel. I sprayed the bushing with PB Blaster and pounded it out. I cleaned the hole and made sure the new bushing was clean, but I started too late and it got to dark. I spoke to a local repair place today and they suggested that I use an old socket about the same size of the bushing to guide it in. I will try that tomorrow.

Thanks for the help. I will keep you posted.

With this fixed and the new knife assemblies that I got for my Ford 501 sickle bar. (TSC had them half off and they were already half of New Holland's price). I will be ready to hay again when ever it stops raining here in Kansas.


----------



## David in Georgia (Aug 30, 2009)

A socket will work fine for putting the bushing in. Did that with all the bushings on my Massey Ferguson 124 square baler and it worked perfectly.


----------



## Hobby Farmer KS (Jul 4, 2010)

Success. I was able to use the old socket and get the bushing in. I hopefully can start cutting again Monday. Still there are chances for rain Sunday and Monday. I probably could have cut on thursday. It has taken me 8 days to repair all my equipment. Thanks again for the help.


----------



## Rock and Sand (Jul 25, 2010)

I just found this forum while looking for a maint manuel for my Oliver 720 baler. I have one but it got wet and the page I need is unreadable. 
Here is the problem...I went down to the field and run the first bale through and stopped to check to see if it knotted, it did. When I engaged the pto knob, the pto shaft just spun without engaging the flywheel. Its not the shear bolt, its ok. I tried tightening the clutch bolts but that was no help. Then I removed all the nuts off the clutch and the big center nut on the shaft. Not sure why the pins on the shaft are not engaging the slots on the clutch. That bit nut was not at all tight, but it had a cotter pin in it and it worked last year.
I used to pull this baler with a Ford Jubilee but now have a Massey Ferguson 1540 (40hp tractor) and the pto seems kind of abrubt when engaged if not throttled back to idel.
Any ideas????


----------



## freedomfarm (Jul 8, 2010)

If I get what you are describing, it sounds like you have a ratchet assembly before the slip clutch. I'm not familiar w/Oliver balers and I could be way off . . . but my JD 14T & JD 24T had a similar set up. What happened to me a few times was the pins became dry and stuck in. I was able to lube them and work them free so they would engage the slots on the slip clutch. You may also want to check the springs that push them out.


----------



## Hobby Farmer KS (Jul 4, 2010)

The 720 has a built in Over Riding Clutch. Some times the metal Buttons or pins that drive it and their springs get rusty and when you first engage it it will stick. When I first got the baler I had to remove the metal buttons and srings and clean them up so the move freely on the holes and oil them. I even added a nother spring to engage the the metal buttons that drive the fly wheel. This way when you stop the baler does not drive the tractor. I have Ford 641 work master. I get all my part from a near by Agco dealer.

I hope this helps


----------

