# Dual bale bale spear



## JD3430 (Jan 1, 2012)

Having trouble finding a bale spear set up to carry 2 round bales at once.
Found bale spears with 2 spikes mounted on bottom. Seems like they're made to carry a square bale or maybe one big round bale.
Anyone know where to find them?


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## LaneFarms (Apr 10, 2010)

I have a Quicke Flexibal that has 2 tines that you can spread with a third function. I also use it to stack rolls in the barn on end.


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## carcajou (Jan 28, 2011)

For the loader or on the back of the tractor?


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## swmnhay (Jun 13, 2008)

Alot of the feedlots here have 4 tong spears for lifting 2 rd bales at a time using payloaders or telehandlers.Most are home made or the local black smith made them.


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## JD3430 (Jan 1, 2012)

carcajou said:


> For the loader or on the back of the tractor?


For the loader. I would like to lift 2 4x5's. it's skid steer quick attach. 
I like the idea of the quicke flexibal. I do have a 3rd function on the loader.


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## mlappin (Jun 25, 2009)

Built mine as well to be a quick attach/detach. Used three spears on the front, just do your best to place the middle one right between two bales and no problems. Lets them roll towards one another some so they are nice and tight when you place them on a truck or trailer. Can carry a third on the back of the loader with another homemade spear.


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## carcajou (Jan 28, 2011)

I'll post some pics tomorrow of one of mine and a great place to get spears from.


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## endrow (Dec 15, 2011)

JD3430 said:


> Having trouble finding a bale spear set up to carry 2 round bales at once.
> Found bale spears with 2 spikes mounted on bottom. Seems like they're made to carry a square bale or maybe one big round bale.
> Anyone know where to find them?


http://www.zimmermanequipment.com/bales/bale_movers.php This is were we get them .


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## deerrunhaycp (Oct 17, 2008)

The two spears on the bottom will carry two 4x5's just fine. I have a frontier. It had three spears, two on the bottom and one on the top. Just removed the top one and kept it for a spare. Have only had oen spear break. One of the Deer Courtries has one for sale for $500, I think it's for the global carrier setup.
Kit


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## JD3430 (Jan 1, 2012)

deerrunhaycp said:


> The two spears on the bottom will carry two 4x5's just fine. I have a frontier. It had three spears, two on the bottom and one on the top. Just removed the top one and kept it for a spare. Have only had oen spear break. One of the Deer Courtries has one for sale for $500, I think it's for the global carrier setup.
> Kit


Kit thanks I checked that one out, too. It's onlt one spear and it's not SS Q-tach.


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## JD3430 (Jan 1, 2012)

Seems like you'd want 2 sets of spears, vertically stacked, so they wouldn't "roll" on a single spear and cause problems when picking up a second bale.


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## slowzuki (Mar 8, 2011)

We had a twin one set up for 4x4 bales, they were 4 feet apart, never had trouble grabbing 2 bales, they would just swing down and find their own position. All I have now are pallet forks and a clamp on single spear. The pallets forks can double spear in a pile but not in the field. I use them mostly for stacking on ends on pallets.


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## mlappin (Jun 25, 2009)

JD3430 said:


> Seems like you'd want 2 sets of spears, vertically stacked, so they wouldn't "roll" on a single spear and cause problems when picking up a second bale.


If your going to be stacking bales on a truck or trailer two at a time you need to place one right beside the other then grab both. I stack all our trucks and trailers two bales at a time, even the top layer.


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## JD3430 (Jan 1, 2012)

mlappin said:


> If your going to be stacking bales on a truck or trailer two at a time you need to place one right beside the other then grab both. I stack all our trucks and trailers two bales at a time, even the top layer.


Yes, that's what I thought, too. I want to be able to laod 2 layers of 4x5's on my flatbed trailer. Need bottoms of rolls to be "level".
Sounds like the process would be to spear a bale, bring it next to another bale, back away, then spear both bales while sitting side by side.


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## carcajou (Jan 28, 2011)

View attachment 366






View attachment 366
After trying a few different setups this is what i come up with. The bale spears are CONUS 3's (4400lb rating each) which are available through FEMA BALE SPEARS in Memphis TN. A plug for owner Joe Moscon great guy to deal with. 901 854 5933 Spears are set @ 68 " wide for 5x6 bales, 43.5" long and IMO the best available. The short ones are cut off 3 ton truck axles 15" long. If placed to the side instead of vertically one bale can be carried more centered on the loader. Steel is all 3x4 or 4x4 .250 wall.


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## carcajou (Jan 28, 2011)

Pic of the truck and super b i rigged up this past summer, 42 5x6 bales a trip really speeds delivery up!


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## CockrellHillFarms (Aug 30, 2011)

http://www.woodcattlecompany.com/ I have one of these. They are nice. They arent cheap though.


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## CockrellHillFarms (Aug 30, 2011)

http://www.woodcattlecompany.com/


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## JD3430 (Jan 1, 2012)

carcajou said:


> View attachment 369
> View attachment 366
> View attachment 367
> View attachment 366
> After trying a few different setups this is what i come up with. The bale spears are CONUS 3's (4400lb rating each) which are available through FEMA BALE SPEARS in Mephis TN. A plug for owner Joe Moscon great guy to deal with. 901 854 5933 Spears are set @ 68 " wide for 5x6 bales, 43.5" long and IMO the best available. The short ones are cut off 3 ton truck axles 15" long. If placed to the side instead of vertically one bale can be carried more centered on the loader. Steel is all 3x4 or 4x4 .250 wall.


I love that bale spear!
Did you make that yourself??
Spacing on tines looks just right.


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## haybaler101 (Nov 30, 2008)

I have a MDS made for 3x3 big squares. Has 4-32" tines spaced 2ft apart. I carry 3-3x3's on it but it also works great to carry 2- 6x5 rounds on it. Spears could be a little longer for rounds, but a good tight bale gives me no problems.


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## JD3430 (Jan 1, 2012)

The wood cattle company unit costs $1500!!!!!
What did you all pay for your complete dual bale spear units?


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## mlappin (Jun 25, 2009)

Built mine, biggest cost was the spears with the sockets


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## carcajou (Jan 28, 2011)

JD3430 said:


> I love that bale spear!
> Did you make that yourself??
> Spacing on tines looks just right.


Yes, i built it in the shop. I wanted a carrier that would stand up to abuse, and more importantly not cause a wreck. Heavier spears, thicker steel and a little more rod gives me peace of mind carrying/ loading 2 heavy bales.

I don't think it cost more than $650 to build and a couple part days in the shop.


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## JD3430 (Jan 1, 2012)

I need to find one ready to go. I cant fabricate something like that (wish I could-that's a great looking spear you made).

BTW: That tractor/trailer rig is really something! Road legal at that length or just use on the farm?


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## JD3430 (Jan 1, 2012)

Just thought I'd throw this website out there. This company looks like a great resource for all of us. They have some really ingenious hay handling tools. I think I may have them make me a bale spear unless I can find one more locally. lol

http://www.hayspear.com/


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## Bob M (Feb 11, 2012)

JD 3430, if you can get the specs there are several amish weld shops in the area that could fabricate for you.


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## JD3430 (Jan 1, 2012)

Bob M said:


> JD 3430, if you can get the specs there are several amish weld shops in the area that could fabricate for you.


Yes there are. Problem is, I'm not sure how to design it just right. Then if it's not right youre kind of stuck with it.
I would think 6' wide would be plenty for the frame. Spears should be 36"-42" for a 48" thick round bale.....
The spacing of the spears and if they should be stacked vertically or paired horizontally is where I'm unsure.

Maybe this is the one? http://www.hayspear.com/product/BOBCAT4SPEAR48/skid-steer-hay-bale-loader-w4-spears-6-ft-wide-attachment.html


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## sooner (Sep 3, 2011)

I built the ultimate bale spear last summer. I actually overbuilt it and if done again would cut back a bit on the weight. Haveing adjustable spears allow you to do just about anything. When carring 4x5, 4x4 or 4x6 I have no problem. Takes 2 seconds to adjust the with. High cage is the safest one I have seen. Long spears mounted low allows for higher stacking. When carring two bales I adjust them to the exact centre of each bale according to bale size and this stops them from rolling (spining on spear.) Adjustable is a little more work to build but is well worth it. I can remove the spears and put pallet forks on the same frame in about two minutes. I will try to attach a picture if you are interested.
Dave


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## sooner (Sep 3, 2011)

Just thought I would add another little comment. Everyone seems nervous about buying the wrong one or a poor design. Having adjustable widths solves all these problems. 
Dave


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## sooner (Sep 3, 2011)

Not sure how to just put the picture in my post but these might help.
Dave


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## JD3430 (Jan 1, 2012)

Sooner,

Beautiful work. I think you might have a future building those attachments.


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## Gearclash (Nov 25, 2010)

> if they should be stacked vertically or paired horizontally is where I'm unsure


I asked an MDS rep this question last year at the local farm show. He said go horizontal, as it is more more forgiving of spear placement in the bale.

I am fabricating my own spears right now. 1 3/4 x 39 bpt points (32" usable length). Outside points about 84" O C. Inside points about 24" inside of each outside point.

The idea is to be able to handle two 5x6 rounds OR multiple 8' big squares.

For handling only 5' dia rounds I would think 72" O C for the outside spears would work.


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## JD3430 (Jan 1, 2012)

Gearclash said:


> I asked an MDS rep this question last year at the local farm show. He said go horizontal, as it is more more forgiving of spear placement in the bale.
> 
> I am fabricating my own spears right now. 1 3/4 x 39 bpt points (32" usable length). Outside points about 84" O C. Inside points about 24" inside of each outside point.
> 
> ...


So 6' OC for 4x5' rounds? That would leave 1' between bales if each bale is stabbed in the center. Are you leaving the extra 1 foot for "wiggle room" (so it wont be tight in between bales) ?

Also, I see you are using a 32" (useable) spear on a 5 foot thick bale. That only stabs the bale about 1/2 way through... think that's enough?


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## mlappin (Jun 25, 2009)

JD3430 said:


> So 6' OC for 4x5' rounds? That would leave 1' between bales if each bale is stabbed in the center. Are you leaving the extra 1 foot for "wiggle room" (so it wont be tight in between bales) ?
> 
> Also, I see you are using a 32" (useable) spear on a 5 foot thick bale. That only stabs the bale about 1/2 way through... think that's enough?


If you have a good tight 48" wide bale 32" of spear in it is plenty. The longer you make the spear the more trouble you can get in if you don't back straight up fro mthe bale. With a good tight 4' bale multiple 24" spears would most likely work.

I'll snap a picture of mine, used em for years with no problems. Mine aren't anywhere near on 6' centers though as I also want to be able to stab the bale thru the side to stack on end.


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## JD3430 (Jan 1, 2012)

Mike I want to see yours, too, but all it will do is make me p.o.'ed because I can't make one!!!!! Lol


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## DSLinc1017 (Sep 27, 2009)

We use a 3 spear from this company for 3x3's, works ok, I believe it is made for rounds. the spears are a bit long for 3x3's. Its made in the US and they ship for free. 
http://www.everythingattachments.com/Hay-Bale-Spear-s/80.htm


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## cmd (Oct 26, 2012)

JD3430 said:


> Yes there are. Problem is, I'm not sure how to design it just right. Then if it's not right youre kind of stuck with it.
> I would think 6' wide would be plenty for the frame. Spears should be 36"-42" for a 48" thick round bale.....
> The spacing of the spears and if they should be stacked vertically or paired horizontally is where I'm unsure.
> 
> Maybe this is the one? http://www.hayspear....attachment.html


where are you from. I'm around greencastle pa


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## rjmoses (Apr 4, 2010)

carcajou said:


> View attachment 370
> Pic of the truck and super b i rigged up this past summer, 42 5x6 bales a trip really speeds delivery up!


That is a really cool picture!! How long was that truck bed? The most I've gotten was 34 bales.

Ralph


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## JD3430 (Jan 1, 2012)

I'm in. SE PA, not far from the once great city of Philadelphia.


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## Gearclash (Nov 25, 2010)

> So 6' OC for 4x5' rounds? That would leave 1' between bales if each bale is stabbed in the center. Are you leaving the extra 1 foot for "wiggle room" (so it wont be tight in between bales) ?


I wasn't thinking about room between the bales, although that could be useful. I just wanted to get well past the center of each bale. All 4 spears are the same length.



> Also, I see you are using a 32" (useable) spear on a 5 foot thick bale. That only stabs the bale about 1/2 way through... think that's enough?


It should be enough most of the time. I move more cornstalk bales than anything else, and for those longer spears are not always better. If needed I can buy 49" points and put them in the outside two sockets. My nehpew moves thousands of 5x6 stalk bales using a similar setup. Last year he had 4 39" points, this year he switched to two 49" /two 39" because the bales tended to be dryer and looser.


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## carcajou (Jan 28, 2011)

rjmoses said:


> That is a really cool picture!! How long was that truck bed? The most I've gotten was 34 bales.
> 
> Ralph


Thanks It's a 32' lead and a 28' pup plus racks front and back. Road legal up here, at least when i can keep the lights all working and the brakes adjusted.


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## Tim/South (Dec 12, 2011)

I have a question.
At what weight do people need to get concerned about over loading their tractor front end?
I know there are tractor specs but they are usually the max. I sometimes get concerned about the extra wear on the axels and bearings.
Is that a concern?


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## JD3430 (Jan 1, 2012)

Tim/South said:


> I have a question.
> At what weight do people heed to get concerned about over loading their tractor front end?
> I know there are tractor specs but they are usually the max. I sometimes get concerned about the extra wear on the axels and bearings.
> Is that a concern?


I think about that, too. I have my tires set wide and that puts stress on the bearings.
It can cause wear or damage. Best thing I would think is to make sure you buy enough tractor for the job.


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## cmd (Oct 26, 2012)

JD3430 said:


> I think about that, too. I have my tires set wide and that puts stress on the bearings.
> It can cause wear or damage. Best thing I would think is to make sure you buy enough tractor for the job.


My father in law has 3 new holland 555 skidloaders, they are not a hefty machine but they will handle 2 4x5 bales from a BR740, you can't go down a hill, but it will lift them and move. If them things can handle that, then a 100 HP 4wd tractor should be fine IMO.


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## Mike120 (May 4, 2009)

Tim/South said:


> I have a question.
> At what weight do people heed to get concerned about over loading their tractor front end?


Some folks I know it's usually when their front axle breaks or they peel a flat front tire off the rim. Pallet forks on a FEL make some people think they can lift anything.....


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## urednecku (Oct 18, 2010)

I watch my tires, the only way I have to 'guess' if I'm overloaded. I'll sometimes carry more than I figure I should, with the front tires bulging a bit, but I'll slow way down & not go far that way, or else dump some of the load out.


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## cmd (Oct 26, 2012)

I wouldn't be all that concerned about the lifting weight factor, it's when people start digging and bulldozing with a farm tractor that things get busted. The loader on a farm tractor is only an attachment, not an integral piece like on a loader backhoe or rubber tire loader, I'll never understand why guys put a 100 HP 4x4 loader tractor in a trench silo loading out feed all day when they could buy a payloader for probably similar money that would last 4x as long.


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## JD3430 (Jan 1, 2012)

I know my loader has a relief valve and it just wont lift over X amount when it thinks it's overloaded. Probably a good thing.
I actually bent my quick attach couplers once. I was picking up a fallen tree and managed to slip a fork tine under a big horizontal root. When I lifterd UP, the forks looked pretty lopsided. Bent quick attach on loader side...$$$$$


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## mlappin (Jun 25, 2009)

Tim/South said:


> I have a question.
> At what weight do people need to get concerned about over loading their tractor front end?
> I know there are tractor specs but they are usually the max. I sometimes get concerned about the extra wear on the axels and bearings.
> Is that a concern?


When looking for additional hay tractors I wouldn't buy one that already had a loader on it. Two reasons, add on loaders do cause additional wear on the front end, definitely cause more wear on the transmissions.

Instead I bought a JD401C Industrial Loader. Heavier front end than a row crop tractor and a much heavier transmission/differential to handle the power reverser.
I've picked the back tires of the ground with the loader, have two outer wheel weights on each tire, each tire is loaded and have a 6 inch cast iron spacer between the hub and rim for a wider stance but still managed to get air under the rear tires. I've had to get heavy duty rims for the front end as I've ripped the centers out of a standard rim, but have had no spindle, wheel bearing or transmission problems.


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## mlappin (Jun 25, 2009)

Images of my spear. Neither the loader tractor nor the backhoe has a quic tack bracket so I made the spears to attach directly to the bucket, also gives me extra reach so I can easily load a truck from either side. The heavy angle iron on the front simply slides over the cutting edge on the bucket. I didn't get a chance to get a measurement on the spacing but I didn't want to go much wider as I want all three spears firmly in the bale when I stab em thru the side to stack on end. Only time I can't use this spear to carry two at a time is when making very thin or fine late cuttings of hay.

https://plus.google....CNvb_s-V5ruB2gE


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## JoshA (Apr 16, 2008)

First off I really like your fork!



sooner said:


> Long spears mounted low allows for higher stacking. When carring two bales I adjust them to the exact centre of each bale according to bale size and this stops them from rolling (spining on spear.)


Not to ruffle any feathers, but I disagree. The higher the spears are mounted on the frame of the fork, the higher you can stack. Also the lower your loader booms can be when carrying the bale.
The tradeoff of having the forks higher up means it limits the use of the fork to bales.

As for carrying two rounds, regardless of how wide the fork is, I try to pick up just above center. This way if they do spin, the axis is offset, so the bales "turn" down into each other rather than "spin" about their center. Otherwise [centered] I find they spin and tear the core apart, so when you set it down it rolls again to find its flat spot again. With mine slightly inside and up of center, when they spin in the flat spot is about an 1/8th of a turn to the inside, forcing the bales to sit tight to each other after I set them down again.

We have a bunch of forks. Two single bale forks, one has 1 spear on top, 2 stabilizers on the bottom. Other is an ALO with two spears in the center, long on bottom shorter on top. Two big double/triple bale forks with 4 spears (49inches) on the bottom, we use these for up to 3 rounds (5x6) and 3 big squares (3x4x9). Handful of stabilizer spears we can put in but don't usually.



































This is to show the spears on the bottom:









We never use the pallet forks, ever! We use these bale spears for pallets of twine, chemical, brush, lumber, you name it. And we have a hydraulic quick-tach so it's not like we're just too lazy to get the pallet forks!


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## JD3430 (Jan 1, 2012)

Josh thanks so much for the pictures and the help. The advice on the pickup point is spot-on. I kind of pick up my single bales that way, too.
I can't believe how "big time" and professional looking your operation is. I hope to be there someday, too......
I actually found a set of forks made by a midwestern US company that are affordable and look quite a bit like the design you use.
Best wishes to you and thanks for sharing the pics!!!!


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## JoshA (Apr 16, 2008)

Thank you!!
Key word you said there is "looking", and you're exactly right! Some days it's as big a sh*t-show here as anywhere! ;-)

I hope it helped, good luck to you!

Don't have much for pictures of carrying the 3 rounds, but here's a couple for proof.


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## mlappin (Jun 25, 2009)

JoshA said:


> Thank you!!
> Key word you said there is "looking", and you're exactly right! Some days it's as big a sh*t-show here as anywhere! ;-)
> 
> I hope it helped, good luck to you!
> ...


I can carry three at a time with my backhoe as well, just can't get enough weight on the back of my other tractor to handle three at a time with it. Can handle two at a time IF your careful and on dry ground with out a bale on the rear.


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## JD3430 (Jan 1, 2012)

Carcajou's design is where I'm leaning towards. I stopped in a local reputable fabricating/welding shop that specializes in custom farm attachments, and this is the design they suggest, too. Bale spear up top, small stabilizers down low. Spacing would be 60" for (2) 4'x5' bales.


One thing I might change is spacing on bottom stabilizers. I might space them wider. I was thinking at the narrow spacing as in Carcajou's fine model, my 4x5 bales may be penetrated too close to the edge, tearing the netwrap. Not sure about this., Your suggestions welcome....

They want $650 to make it and that includes primer/paint.

Would a 38" spear be a good choice for a 48" thick bale?


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## swmnhay (Jun 13, 2008)

*I unload at a lot of different places.The type you have there with 2 long spears and the stabilizer pts.If the bales are tight together coming off a trailer they work fine.If they are not tight together they like to turn even with stabilizer if not dead center of each bale.Which doesnt happen often.Say you baled some bales at 4' tall the 2 prong spear they would turn on you bad.*

*The ones guys have 4 spears work the best.you have way more control of the bale.You can pick up one bale in center if you want.And be balanced so loader is not twisting.You can pickup lg sqrs also.*

*Tapered forged spears are the best also for going in and out of bales with out sticking.Most guys here have 48" spears for 5x6 bales.38" should work fine on 4' bales.*


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## JD3430 (Jan 1, 2012)

Thanks much!
I think it's worth noting I will mostly be loading and rarely unloading, since I dont buy any hay.


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## carcajou (Jan 28, 2011)

There is a reason i offset the stabilizers to the inside. If i want to pick up one bale i can spear it more to the center of the loader. Alot easier on the loader frame if the load is more centered . 
If you are only handling good round bales go with the 2 long spears instead of 4. If 2 bales roll apart say 1 foot or so you can spear them a liitle higher, drive in a way, then lift them causing them to roll together then finish spearing them. This is a real time saver. If equal length spears get bent, even a little they are a PITA. The only reason i'd go back to 4 equal length spears would be if i had to handle softcore bales.
38" spears will work fine.	Ray


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## heritagefarms (Jul 26, 2016)

JD3430 said:


> Having trouble finding a bale spear set up to carry 2 round bales at once.
> Found bale spears with 2 spikes mounted on bottom. Seems like they're made to carry a square bale or maybe one big round bale.
> Anyone know where to find them?


JD3430

I came across your post awhile ago when looking for the same thing. I have recently come across this product - http://www.agventive.com/tiltspear

Not sure if you're still on the hunt. Hope this helps!


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## JD3430 (Jan 1, 2012)

Thats insane !!

Love it!

But $4,500 is more than this "broke" hay farmer can afford.


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## Tx Jim (Jun 30, 2014)

JoshA said:


> Not to ruffle any feathers, but I disagree. The higher the spears are mounted on the frame of the fork, the higher you can stack. Also the lower your loader booms can be when carrying the bale.
> The tradeoff of having the forks higher up means it limits the use of the fork to bales.


Please explain how having spears 1 inch or 1 foot above quick attach attaching pins on boom will increase FEL lifting height?? I think having spears at boom pin level will be maximum lift height. Boom pins that normally attach bucket to boom is where maximum FEL lift is stated in FEL spec's.

Thanks,Jim


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## Gearclash (Nov 25, 2010)

Tx Jim said:


> Please explain how having spears 1 inch or 1 foot above quick attach attaching pins on boom will increase FEL lifting height?? I think having spears at boom pin level will be maximum lift height. Boom pins that normally attach bucket to boom is where maximum FEL lift is stated in FEL spec's.
> 
> Thanks,Jim


Because the hinge pin height is lower relative to the bottom of the bale. For example: my loader tractor has a maximum pin height of 15'. If my pin is 4' high when the spears enter the bale, then in theory the bottom of the bale will be 11' high when the pin is at 15'. This is typical of the spear I use which has the spears in the lower beam. If I were to use a frame with the spears in the top of the frame, and lets say the frame is 2' high, then having the spears enter the bale at the same point would result in an initial pin height of 2', and at max lift the bottom of the bale would be at 13'. I have on occasion reverse mounted pallet forks on the frame to accomplish the same effect.

Will add also that having the spears well above the bottom beam improves the stability of bale on the spears.


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## Tx Jim (Jun 30, 2014)

Are you picking these bales at ground level or from a trailer deck/dock? Unloading bales from truck then I agree with your statements but disagree if bales are sitting on the ground.

When picking bales up at "ground level" every inch one raises spears on mounting bracket is an inch lost in total lifting height. I can't envision being able to pick up bales from ground lever with pallet forks that have been attached to FEL in an upside down configuration. My bale spears are mounted at bottom of SSQA frame and I have no bale stability problems when I pick up bales. On my Kubota M7040 with a LA1153 FEL with boom cylinders attached in power position maximum advertised lift is 117.2''. Moving spears up 1 ft lessens total lift from "ground level to maximum advertised lift" by one foot because although it's unsafe IE not recommended I can slide spears under bale to achieve maximum lift of 117.2'' plus slight angle achieved from bucket cylinders.

Please correct me if I'm not viewing/understanding this correctly,Jim


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## mlappin (Jun 25, 2009)

JD3430 said:


> Thats insane !!
> 
> Love it!
> 
> But $4,500 is more than this "broke" hay farmer can afford.


Yah, I've threatened to built a spear to handle two on the rear of my JD401C, it already has a hydraulic cylinder in place of the three point linkage on one side, unfortunately it's only a category one three point, not sure it would like the extra weight in the long run.

But anyways my thoughts were this, built a wide rear spear out of 4x4 tubing, pick up the first bale on the left side, raise three point all the way, back up to second bale and lower that side of the frame with the hydraulic cylinder, pick up bale then use hydraulic cylinder to raise that side.


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## swmnhay (Jun 13, 2008)

Well most people spear a bale somewhere near center or at least a ft off the bottom to be safe and if stacking to keep from snagging the bale you are stacking on.So if the spears are in the bottom of the fram you have to lift the boom up a ft or so to that.If the spears are mounted higher you can lower the boom farther before you spear the bale.

Plain as mud??


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## Tx Jim (Jun 30, 2014)

OK I surrender it finally SOAKED IN!!!! But I still don't understand how flipping pallet fork mounting pans out.


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## swmnhay (Jun 13, 2008)

Tx Jim said:


> OK I surrender it finally SOAKED IN!!!! But I still don't understand how flipping pallet fork mounting pans out.


I think he was talking of other uses like a seed tote with loops on the top.


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## Gearclash (Nov 25, 2010)

Tx Jim said:


> OK I surrender it finally SOAKED IN!!!! But I still don't understand how flipping pallet fork mounting pans out.


I was not moving bales with the pallet fork. And yes, if the forks are on the frame upside down, then what you want to pick up needs to be setting on something.

I prefer to spear rounds about 2/3 of the way up. Then the grain of the material is laying across the spear more, and the center of mass is below the spear, which reduces the tendency of the bale to rotate if the spears aren't placed precisely. I have a two bale spear, and its width makes for somewhat of a compromise in spear placement when handling a 6' diameter bale. I also have the spears paired horizontally rather than vertically, I think vertical is the better idea for rounds.


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## heritagefarms (Jul 26, 2016)

carcajou said:


> For the loader or on the back of the tractor?


Brain-fart post. Please disregard


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