# Sticky  Balewagon Operation and Troubleshooting/Repair



## hay hauler

Please:

Add all any and all information you can to this thread and expand on anything you think needs expanding. Maybe even add information from other threads. What might seem obvious to some may not to others.

Let's try and KEEP CHIT CHAT TO A MINIMUM in this thread so that the information will be quick and easy for all to find.

Let's load this up with information!

Thanks!


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## hay hauler

What to look at when buying.

Good to have

*Auto tie to commence and complete the tie process without getting off the tractor
*Hydraulic chute control to raise and lower the pick up chute
*Push off feet condition (Extend with out hooking other parts)

Efficiency

*The width of your hay shelter
*The space your yard/building configuration 
*Typical load size needed/wanted
*If you want the ability to unload one bale at a time to feed an elevator or stacking crew
* The height needed to dump height of the load rack.
* The size of your tractor relative to the load capacity of the picker (Hp and Weight).

In your check of the unit look at

Under power
*The hydraulic system, pump, hoses, the function of the tables the dump and the push off feet
*The drive shaft
*Drive chains
*Bale mover chains/ Sprockets

*Tires
*Hubs
*Pick up chute damage
*Table bumpers (rubber stand offs that the tables fall on when returned to resting position, they make rub marks on the resting point if the ware area has moved around the bushings holding the table need checking)
*Pivot points and connecting arms for the tables to ensure they have not been twisted, are askew, or worn out. 
*Condition of sheet metal on the second table (you can tell a lot about the how a machine was taken care of you how the sheet metal on the tables ripples = lots of use)
*Pumps for these can cost some money (leaking= on their last leg)
*For those not mechanically inclined these machines are not a place to save money.
*Condition of the uprights

Self-propelled

*Engine condition
*Transmission condition
*Kingpins on axels
*Brakes
*Rear axel and two speed
*Cab and glass condition
*Pump drive pulley and chain


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## hay hauler

Pre start

•	Air filter
•	Oil level
•	Coolant level
•	Brake Fluid
•	Distributor cap (Clean)
•	Clean glass 
•	Tire pressure
•	Springs
•	Grease
•	Belts
•	Check pick chute chain tightness
•	Clean from all chafe (Loose Hay)


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## hay hauler

Field Check

•	If someone has farmed it before then ask advise for obstacles (they usually know or have hit them)
•	Power lines
•	Irrigation 
•	Septic fields
•	Rocks
•	Wet areas
•	Pivot Tracks (Closer to the center is usually deeper)

If you only travel where the field was cut and stay out of standing grass we reduce the risk to hit unwanted obsticals with the pick up chute or other parts of the machine.

Swinging the pickup chute into tall grass can be a gamble.


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## hay hauler

Stacking

•	Free of large rocks
•	Area to push off to
•	Level area with enough room to move the stack out
•	Bracing inside the barn on the wall 
•	The machine will raise up some once unloaded plain for this
•	One row of bales against the wall can help create proper "lean"
•	Flake of hay can level an area.
•	Making stacks lean into each other will help them stand for a long time
•	Steady dumping rate
•	Push off feet in all they way prior to raising load rack! 
•	Square to each stack
•	Stack poles for security in front or to the side. (picture)
•	Stacks will settle after a week or so (Short stacks in front or leave stack poles for a period of time)
•	Watch that push off feed don't hook strings in the stack
•	In the field something to dump against of "stacking stack" (picture)
•	Cap tier for tarping (tie tire on top with our side bales)•	Guides on the floors or rafters can aid in backing up
•	Telephone poles in the ground work well to create back stops
•	Start into the barn at a angle to see where you are going if possible (backing all the way down a wall can be difficult
•	Easier to start on the wall of a barn that is the easiest to see (SP start on the right side looking at the barn opening)


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## hay hauler

Self-propelled vs. pull type

SP
•	300+ ton per year
•	Efficient to about 7 miles of hauling
•	Easier to operate and easier on the back and neck
•	One more machine (drive train) to maintain
•	Helpless in soft ground

Pull type
•	Efficient up to 300 ton per year
•	Constantly looking back to operate
•	More difficult to back into the barn
•	Simpler to maintain
•	Less costly


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## hay hauler

More stacking tips

Once the wagon is pushed off the stack a foot or two make verify the load rack is all they way leaned back like in the picture or the ends of the load rack can pull the bottom bales out from under the stack.

The tips of the load rack shoud sill be on the ground once out from the stack.


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## hay hauler

Speed tricks

When in the field a bail can be held in the position shown and a second bale can be pushed along the ground allowing the first or second table to cycle. This allows the machine to continue at a constant rate with out stopping.

Just don't hold the bale so high that it falls under the first table as it cycles.

By doing this for example from the time the second table cycles on a three wide we can move down the field four bales by holding two on the first table, and two with the pick up chute.


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## hay hauler

Bales

The length of the bale is very important!

I find 36" 16X18 bales at 75 to 80 pounds is the best size for a 3 wide....

The more consistent the hay is feed into the bailer the better.

We want the hay to go into the uprights of the balewagon and just squeeze into the uprights with a small amount of pressure.

To long and it can be really hard on the sheet metal and pins holding the second table and even brake bale strings.
To short and they can shift left and right while stacking in the field causing the stack to lean when standing.

The way the hay looks in the picture is what I have fount to be almost optimal the bales might be just a inch to long.

With this in mind it is better to error on the side of short. To shot can be worked with.... their is a point where to long just wont work.

Extra long "oops" bales can be put on the top in a form of a cap tier though....

The faster they are picked after bailed the easier they will slide. After 24 hours of the bales hitting the ground they tend to become "sticky".


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## hay hauler

Anyone thing of other things to add?

Questions?

Speed Trick?


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## expensive hobby

had to buy a tire 600 bucks anybody try skidsteer tires?


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## hay hauler

The rears for mine are 1,100 each...







. Looking for other ideas as well....?


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## hay hauler

Tie tiers.

What way to do make the most stable stack?

3 wide wagon, 9 tiers high

4th and 7th tie I tie the front of the stack (Once standing the side that faces the front of the barn). And on the 5th I tie one row of bales in from the front of the stack. Also a cap tier on the top.


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## expensive hobby

im suprised that you cap ties, with rail bales its never an issue of piles splitting side ways


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## hay hauler

It seems to work well when we tarp the hay out side, also since i dont tie the back of the stack it seems to help those bales not want to fall out the side... If it isnt square to the stack before i find them to be unstable...

And for some reason the bottom of the bales will sometimes be a half of foot inside of the top bales if the makes since.....







been working hard to figure this out. It may be from the stack shifting when i am making turns to fast at the end of the field.... I have a issue of going to fast late at night....


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## ButchAutomatic

Hay Hauler, Are you making 16x18 bales? I am making 14x16 bales and do the tier ties on 4th and 7th siminular to yours above, but we have 18 bales on tier and 17 bales on our tier ties and sometimes have the fronts blow out on softer hay.


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## hay hauler

I custom stack both but the most common is the 16X18. I have had issues with that if I have too much lean on the stack, or to big of distance in-between stacks when I dump. It seems at as the hay pile grows a person can always increase the lean on the next block of hay but you can never take it away.

My stacks never lean back as much as the bale wagon load rack will tip. I find that if this happens it will actual push the bottom of the stack out forward.


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## expensive hobby

i had that problem also so instead of 2 rows of 6 i have 2 rails with 5 sets of 2 inbetween then just i row of 3


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## hay hauler

What tier do you do this in? And how many ties in a stack?


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## Rodney R

Everything gets stacked on pallets here (I have a picture here on this board somewhere of the pallet - PM me, and I will send you some.) And we also have enough room in the shed, and enough lift on the grabber that we add the 10th row to the stacks. I had trouble with the stacks blowing out, so now I tie 3, 5, 7. Seems all I do is make tie rows. I have nearly 0 problems. Neighbor only has 1 tie, and his stacks look alright as well - I'm betting that the extra row puts a lot of stress on the stack. I would bet that blowing out the front might be that the stack leans too much? But that's just an idea from afar. Seems that the stacks always look nicer in brochures? And the crappy ones are always in the front, and they either fall just before you go to move them, or they fall at some inoportune time...... either way, it is much more fun to pick bales out of the field, than to pick up a fallen stack!

Rodney


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## hay hauler

I tend to leave poles up and around the stack till I take the hay away if they are not in the way..... I have had them fall a half of month later...







. Also if the front stack is left lower this seems to help them not fall, maybe 4 or 5 tiers.

Our neighbor also just ties the fifth tier... with a cap. Easy to grapple but they do move around a lot over the winter.


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## hay wilson in TX

I know there is resistance to using a bed of rocks for the floor of a barn, but I use a rock bed on the floor of my barn and taper the rocks do be lower at the center line of the stack. This way the stack leans in on it's center.

With my bermudagrass hay I use two tie tiers on the third and another on the fifth tier. Bermudagrass can and will move inside the wires and shift. Alfalfa stacks like so many bricks and stay put, (better). One tie tier will have the turned bales toward the front and the other toward the back of that stack. It may take some playing to get things right for the odd ball tie tier. Put two rows on the second table then manually lift the second table so these bales slide aft a few feet. Then finish the tie tier. (My machine is the 1003 and only has one 12 bales on the second table not 15 so I have to get down and with just one row on the second table and move these bale far enough back so the flippers will be able to push the center bale back on the first table. I have not learned how to get those first three bales to move back with out rolling over.)


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## hay hauler

If your tie pins are mounted to the second table then this might work....

When sliding the first 3 back try putting 6 on first (let the first table run twice), set the pins then slide the first three back. This works for me... gets the first three sliding easier and smoother. You don't need to send them far to make the tie work... about 1/2 or less on the second table...

Also the slicker the tables the better I find. I have even gone so far as to use an automotive wax on the 1st and 2nd table, along with a wire wheel to nock of all rust when we start in the spring. I try really hard not to let the tables get wet all season long. This tends to make them sticky....


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## hay hauler

Tips for picking up hay on hillsides...? Safty tricks?


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## Rodney R

I sorta laugh - many guys think that their balewagon operates poor on what I would call flat ground. About the only trick I have for hills is getting out. I may get out of the cab 3 times on a tie row. I can only dream of how well it would work if our fields were 'flat'. I think that bales pick better if they are on the uphill side of the wagon - the cross chain doesn't have to work so hard to push or grab them, but they might trip if they go too fast. Ours is computer controlled, and I sometimes fool it, cause I know it's going to make more work for me if I leave it do it's thing. Sometimes it's just easier to move the bales, then it is if it tries to move them. I have a love/hate relationship with the stackwagon, and sometimes it seems like it's trying to 'punish' me.....

I pick about 50-60k in a year, and the thing is in the shed every night - if it's in the rain, I am picking bales. You are right that rain makes things sticky.

When things get sticky at night (because of dew) use some cooking oil - the cheapest stuff you can find - some cheap generic cooking oil in a spray - like PAM - Spray 2 widths on the bale loader on each side, do a quick spray on the 1st table, and 3 widths on the 2nd table. The spray will only last one load, so no sense being too dilignet with the spray - you just want it sprayed where the bales slide. The oil helps the bales slide, and as the bales move, you can see where the spray has smeared. I carry a few cans with me all the time, and one can should last about 4 loads or so.

Rodney


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## hay hauler

Rodney R,

I never though of that&#8230;. Thanks! Any troubles with the dew molding the sides of the bales once they are in the stack?

I have heard stories of wagons braking springs on hillsides when the second table goes up&#8230;. So to deal with this&#8230;

I usually will run down a row and before the 2nd table trips I head down hill and change rows, allowing the table to cycle with the machine going straight or close to down hill, not side hilling. This seems to cause less were on the springs and pivot points of the table.

Also I am a bit worried about it rolling over so I try to only pick on a hill with 4 or less tiers on the load rack. Then finish in the bottom. The reason for this is one late night I had to get out and take a walk after my first experience of a steep hillside&#8230;







Didn't brake anything but my heart was racing

I have considered stiffing up the spring pack with more leafs also to combat them braking&#8230;. Don't know if this will work. I do know that something like a rear 1095 spring will work on my 1049. Thought about changing them both to that&#8230; It does seem to be a bit stiffer and looks stronger&#8230;.


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## Rodney R

When the hills get reall steep I only have 3 tiers in the load rack, and one on the 2nd table. If the hill I am going down gets real bad, I just leave the 2nd table up, better than having to restack all the falling bales!

Never had a problem with mold from the dew - you have to remember that alfalfa has some sort of stuff in it that acts like glue, which is why you can make cubes out of it, and why JD had the in-the-field cubers years ago, and I think that is why the bales stick so much. Grass bales seem to be better under the same conditions, but if you run late enough you have to spray for them as well. If the hay was baled dry enough, and some acid was put on it, the small amount of moisture from dew is not going to affect the bales. Which goes back to what I always tell guys - the conditions AFTER hay is baled are nearly as important (if not more important) than the conditions when it was baled.

Rodney


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## nhbaler282

I use that grafite that you can get at tractor supply and put it on the chute,first table and the second table also put anti seize on under the load rack to make it slide easier this is a model 1033 with bermuda grass hay. Tell us some about tarping hay stacks like how do you get the tarp on top of the stack. I stacked some outside last summer and I attached a piece of light weight pipe to the tarp and took a u joint and made a handle to reach from the ground to roll and unroll the tarp,like they use on them hopper bottom trailers,but I didn't get it to roll up evenly but I am going to try again.


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## hay hauler

Usualy can walk up the back of the stack with the tarp if it is just free standing because of the way i make the first stack. If the front and back of the stack is virtical i just find a way to clime up it with the tarp via... ladder, bailwagon load rack, Just got to be carefull. Once on top i try to unfold the tarp and just start moving it out. If I leave the wagon dumped (Dont push off from the last stack) untill the stack is tarped the stack is a lot more stable to walk on. It really helps to have a second hand when doing this... Also i keep my phone in my pocket if i am alone. I figure if i were to fall off the top i would have a chance to get help....


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## nwfarmer

1033 stack wagon

I stair case the first bales in the stack to make a back stop. This way I don't need a permanent back stop and can move the stack year to year. I then run bale twine out from the edge of the stack 40 or 50 ft. and stake it into the ground. I can easily back along the line quickly. I also cut a length of pvc. When I have an extra person I back along the line until the back of the wagon reaches the length of pvc. Makes a perfect tight stack every time. My bales are 14 X 18 X 36 and weigh between 65 to 70 pounds. I have found it is easier to pick up and stack tight bales.

The small blocks on table 1 helps get the bales where you want them before they dump onto table 2 on sloped ground. Put the blocks on off or turn them around. What ever works. The blocks are sloped on one edge.

Speed does help in better pick up. I like to pick up at a little over 4 mph.


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## hay hauler

Tire PSI on the Self Propelled wagons?

The 10 pounds from the max amout on them still seems soft to me....

Anyone running duals?


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## hay wilson in TX

I have not seen any mention of the direction of travel for picking up the bales.

The bales slide better on the first table if picked up traveling the same direction as the baler was going. Has to do with the way the cut side rubs on the steel. 
Something my wife showed me.

As for picking up hay soon after baling, I agree. I believe if the bales have started their sweat that makes the bales slide with more difficulty.
Picking up the next morning with dew on the bales also slows bales sliding along the first & second tables.


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## Rodney R

Wilson is correct - picking bales the same direction that the baler traveled makes them pick MUCH better, it can be done the other way, it just works better like he said. I have also found the sooner you can get them after baleing the better - the longer they sit on the ground the more trouble they are to get up. Dew is a real problem. Once they sit overnight here, they almost pick up too much moisture to slide properly.

Duals.... I have heard of some folks running duals. The new ones come with super single truck tires on them. Worthless if your ground is not hard - we had NH switch ours to flotation tires like spray trucks have..... Much better than it was before!

Rodney


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## hay hauler

Useful Internet sights?

Buy your next New Holland bale wagon from Guy and Ryan Palmer | Palmer Equipment Sales & Finding Service

Roeder Implement,

Sod Buster Sales Inc.- New Holland Used Bale Wagons


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## rob_cook2001

I have been custom stacking since 2004 with a 1069 diesel.
As for the expensive tires I put blemished(the printing on the sidewall was crooked) tires on the front. They can be had for 350-400 when you can find them.. For the rear there is a metric size that is common on trucks overseas. They are about 1/2 inch wider and 1/4 inch taller than the factory tires(close enough) and can be had for under 600 bucks. I learned to run this machine with no help and it sure was a pain in the butt. After I got done pulling my hair out and figured it out I love running these machines and will be investing in a 9870 next year.
Robert


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## hay hauler

Robert,

You have a company you buy your tires from?


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## rob_cook2001

Nebraska Tire - Quality discount tires and wheels for you! They are pretty good people to deal with. I need to call Monday and order a set of rear tires for my 1069.


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## NRC51

I've read through all these posts and while I have run both Accumulators and bale wagons, the bale wagon to me is the faster way to stack and unstack. Grass hay was always a nightmare because you never knew if a stack would still be standing when you came back with the next load. One night in winter I woke up and said I can't believe I never thought of that. This is what popped into my head.
I now take the twine that is used on big square bales( can be used stuff tied together) and when the second table is loaded I stop and wrap the twine once around the 15 bales and tie it off. I do this on 1,4,7 layers and no longer use the auto tie feature. I no longer have to worry about stacks falling over and the bottom layer never pulls out if the rack happens not to slide out easily. 
It may take a few minutes longer when making a load but the rest is a real big relief and you'll love the straight stacks. Depending on the bales you can do more rows or put 2 strings on the #1 row if needed.


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## hay hauler

NRC51,

How much twine do you use doing this in a year?


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## rob_cook2001

I have seen a guy that does that with grass hay, I don't have much of a problem with stacks falling over so I never tried it but it seams to work with him. He also has a problem of forgetting to use his push off feet. Just puts it in gear and dumps the whole load. When he does it he goes off the deep end, throwing his hat and stomping the ground HAHAH. I have seen him do it 3 times in one day.
Robert


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## darren

My barns are on a 4% slope with concrete floor.I will have to stack one down hill and the other up hill. Will this be a big problem or will stack poles hold them up?
They are 200 foot long and 90 feet wide each.


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## rob_cook2001

If you need to stack on a hill you should stack uphill. But since your only at 4% you should be fine stacking down hill to. Just make sure to use your poles. Concrete is a little hard on your load rack and rolling rack fingers but you should be ok. Your going to be able to store a LOT of hay in those sheds.
Robert


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## hay hauler

I see no problem. Your stack poles wont want to stay in place, but use them. I like to stack down hill, with stack poles.... seems to stay tighter but a short stack at the end of the pile will help the front not fall off over time.


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## H&S Farms

Here's a question. 2 actually. I have a nh 1049s & recently got a 1069. On the 1049 I am having a problem with the second table not going all the way up. As soon as the table raises above the trip lever it stops. I've tried adjusting the springs on the valve, but not to the desired effect yet, any info would be much appreciated.

Second question, on the 1069 how in the world do I get the rolling rack back to the top? My dad purchased this thing at an auction and everything else seems to be in good working condition. I was going to put it in the field today but.... help here would also be greatly appreciated.


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## darren

After you dump , lower the table and continue to hold lever in lower position.This should bring the rack forward.


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## rob_cook2001

My 1069 has a separate control lever for the rolling rack. On your 1049 it sounds like a issue with your linkage. Like your trip lever is bouncing back to hard and canceling it. Does the table just stop or drop back down to the frame?
Robert


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## H&S Farms

rob_cook2001 said:


> My 1069 has a separate control lever for the rolling rack. On your 1049 it sounds like a issue with your linkage. Like your trip lever is bouncing back to hard and canceling it. Does the table just stop or drop back down to the frame?
> Robert


on the 1049 it just stops once the lever returns. I have to finish the cycle using the lever.

As for the 1069, talked to roeder imp. KS today and it was a pretty simple fix. I had to remove the cover on the back side of the valve body and free the pool up. Luckily for me I believe it was just ceased to the cover cause as soon as I removed it it freed up. Mine has a seperate lever as well.

I love the 1069 vs my old 1049! (so far) moved around 1200 bales with it today, and that's a sweeet machine!


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## NRC51

hay hauler said:


> NRC51,
> 
> How much twine do you use doing this in a year?


If you buy a box of the large square bale twine it will last you a long time because you can reuse it. I use the twine cut from the already baled big squares that the dairies here feed. It takes three pieces tied together for each layer you tie. I keep those to reuse each year. You make a loop in the end and that is really the only place they wear. I'll get a picture and post it on here.


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## OneManShow

We run a 1075 with a 1085 computer and a broken air conditioner. Had a problem with the rolling rack travelling to the rear on its own. I found a broken spring in the rolling rack relief valve and replaced it-couldn't believe the dealer had it! Even set as tight as I could get it, when we stack timothy hay or other heavy bales, the rack still moved back on it's own a bit-enough so the block would lean a bit. I replaced the whole valve last year and almost fixed the problem-except with heavy bales. I'm thinking about putting a shim under the spring to increase the setting on the relief valve. I already lower the stack manually anyhow so it would make a difference that way. Has anyone else had a problem with this?


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## cottonwood haymaker

I need help. I have a NH 1032 balewagon. After repacking the cylinder that raises the first table, the cylinder to raise the bale pickup stopped raising (it does still pick up bales). Previously this cylinder did operate correctly. I removed this cylinder, had the seals replaced and still it does not lift the bale pickup. I disconnected the hose going to the cylinder, operated the controls, and oil under pressure ran through the hose. I tried to remove the constrictor and check for blockage in the hole but the constrictor would not unscrew all the way. All the other cylinders seem to operate correctly. Any suggestions would be appreciated. If this is the wrong thread for this, please tell me where to post it.


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## OneManShow

Have you tried bleeding the cylinder? You may have gotten some air in system when you changed the other cylinder. Have you also tried holding the lever all the way back (to lift the pickup head) for a awhile to see if the cylinder will bleed itself? Our 1048S sometimes needs some time with the handle pulled back before the pick-up head will lift. Hope this helps.


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## Blue Duck

NRC51 said:


> I've read through all these posts and while I have run both Accumulators and bale wagons, the bale wagon to me is the faster way to stack and unstack. Grass hay was always a nightmare because you never knew if a stack would still be standing when you came back with the next load. One night in winter I woke up and said I can't believe I never thought of that. This is what popped into my head.
> I now take the twine that is used on big square bales( can be used stuff tied together) and when the second table is loaded I stop and wrap the twine once around the 15 bales and tie it off. I do this on 1,4,7 layers and no longer use the auto tie feature. I no longer have to worry about stacks falling over and the bottom layer never pulls out if the rack happens not to slide out easily.
> It may take a few minutes longer when making a load but the rest is a real big relief and you'll love the straight stacks. Depending on the bales you can do more rows or put 2 strings on the #1 row if needed.


I gave the twine a try on my straw this year. I have a 1044 without auto-tie and IMHO the twine is the only way to go! I built a twine box out of an old grease barrel and attached it to one of the shafts on the side boards. A hundred feet of twine for every load (120 bales) is well worth the expense to have nice stacks, no moving bales to make tie layers, and no tie layers when picking them up with the bale claw.


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## customhaystacking

The Firestones are up to about $1300, I tried a Michelin tire that was supposed to fit, it was a little bigger and looked ok mounted, but with 4.5 ton of hay they rubbed the load rack, I had them take them off...bad part was that one of the tires was ruined when it was taken off, so I was forced to buy the Firestone...and They boned me for the cost of Shipping the tires back...$150...I won't be doing business with them anymore, the only other way is to switch to 22.5 wheels...too much $$$ for me!


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## customhaystacking

It sounds like most of you guys bale 36" bales, we do 48" bales, two wide and with the 1095 I block stack almost 100% of the hay I pick-up. Block stacks almost never fall over, only if the guy bales to loose then the bales compress and the stack falls over. I go 10 high with 3 tie layers comes out at 97 bales (4.5 tons) a load. I started with a 1048S, so I know what its like to have a stack fall on you. I stack about 50-60K bales a season and last year I didn't have a single stack fall over. Sorry, I'm not bragging, just stating how awesome block stacks are. I find that one unloading a single load or starting a new stack you can tie some twine to the last layer front to back and it holds the top from separating and you don't have any bales fall of the top of the stack. I also keep a tire gauge in the cab, it cost me $1300 for a tire one year from a low tire that blew while transporting a load of hay down the roadway. Always check the tire pressure before hauling any distance!


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## rob_cook2001

Welcome to the forum Customhaystacking. Stacking is my main thing to, did about 85-90k last year. Don't see many 2 wide wagons around here. All the hay I stack is between 36in and 40inch.
Robert


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## OneManShow

We make a 47" bale and haul with a 1075. I make a 7 tier block and stack them 2 blocks high in the barn. I started with 1048S too-still have it-and I'd sell it if somebody could use her. I know some folks on the east side of the cascades who make "cowboy bales" and stack with a three wide machine. I guess they hand load the semi trucks too!


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## rob_cook2001

OneManShow.
A lot of us with these "cowboy bales" load with some type of a grapple, either a old farmhand or a new Steffin.
But I agree the hay squiezes you all run are cool as HE!!
Robert


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## customhaystacking

block stacking is the way to go! I do some 7 high squeeze blocks for a few customers, but most of it is 10 high block. I do mostly 2-tie, but when I stack 3-tie I love them too, 3-tie just stacks so nice if the bales are good!


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## Robin Craig

Howdy Folks,

Thought I would chime in on what we have learnt, this being our second season with the NH 1049S self propelled machine.

Please bear in mind we were not farmers until just over a year ago when the company I work for bought another farm 7 kilometers away on the same island and we pitched our renter off and "went to live the farming dream" making hay in small squares for the horse market.

We have two types of fields, existing grass hay and newly planted. The new planting of a custom hay mix is slowly expanding as we bring more field back from being left to go to seed for many years.

We cut with a NH 488 haybine, rake with a Miller Pro single head unit, sometimes ted with a used Fransgard tedder, bale with a NH 575 small square baler with 1/4 turn device, and finally collect with the Stack Cruiser.

We have a fabric covered barn 50' X 100' with a custom made back wall we built ourselves after the fiasco of tumbled bales last year.

We aim for 36" long bales but I have found that the floor of the barn is critical in having stacks stay up. We have a limestone floor and cover it with 6 mil poly vapour barrier to mitigate the moisture coming up from beneath. We did spread straw on top of the poly last year but you will have to see my other post to see what happened with that.

This year I re graded our floor to very level and have not had any problems so far this year, but its early yet as we are still on first cut, I know we are late, many other factors affecting.

The Stack Cruiser, I have found as everyone else has is not tolerant of variations in bale lengths. To compensate I have spread the sides a bit more and gone for speed of pick up. Last year I was a Jack In The Box onto the second table all the time, this year with a bit more wiggle room I am getting production.

Our machine was purchased used from Martin Warne from near Syrause NY state. he has been a gem on giving me advice by cell phone at critical times, a real gentleman.

All our kit spends its time under cover except under exceptional circumstances.

We collect bales within an hour or so of being baled when possible. If bales overnight in the field we manually turn them over at around 11 am onto dry ground and allow them to dry in the sun for at least an hour before we pick them up.

I have no idea which way the bales were laid as we zip around the field picking up as best we can moving the least distance to get the most bales.

rgds

Robin Craig


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## jb63

i'm in western Or and have a 1048 s.I got tired of people saying they want hay ,but are too lazy to pick it up. So I dump a load at their barn and drive away.Old equipment allways has problems but mine are pretty well ironed out. I do have a question if anyone knows how to make the second chain move faster? I've had the stacker about 10 yr and that chain allways bugs me. Also I put a hillside kit on it ,and a plate steel with 3 or 4 bags of concrete on the rear end . When I first brought it home I couldn't even back up my drive and it's not that steep.


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## hay hauler

Jb63,

Whats a hillside kit consist of?

Don't know about making the chain move faster, maybe it needs a new pump, or the condition of the teeth could effect the speed at whitch it moves the bales...


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## jb63

The hillside kit I copied off a neighbors stacker. It's a 4 in piece of 1/8 bolted to the outside of the second table, and sticking up about an inch and a half. The other part is a extension sq. tube over the trip lever for the first table. When I get caught up I'll take a pic.


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## hay hauler

Intake tubing is expensive… Sewer hose for a RV works, no problems on mine for the last 4 years and at a fraction of the cost.


----------



## Guest

Blue Duck said:


> I gave the twine a try on my straw this year. I have a 1044 without auto-tie and IMHO the twine is the only way to go! I built a twine box out of an old grease barrel and attached it to one of the shafts on the side boards. A hundred feet of twine for every load (120 bales) is well worth the expense to have nice stacks, no moving bales to make tie layers, and no tie layers when picking them up with the bale claw.


Just a thought... do you think it would be possible to free stand a three wide stack by tying twine around every single tier? I would really like to be able to start stacks in fields without having to get a backstop around


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## Josh in WNY

bbos said:


> Just a thought... do you think it would be possible to free stand a three wide stack by tying twine around every single tier? I would really like to be able to start stacks in fields without having to get a backstop around


Bbos, can your wagon set off a partial stack? If so, you could use that to build your bulkhead by only picking up a partial load and setting that off.


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## Teslan

I'm toying with the idea of taking the side racks and the overhead cross bar off of my 1089 stacker. Having the upper cross bar on limits me to 14 3x3 bales instead of 15, which results in uneven stacks on the top,which doesn't really matter inside a barn, but outside it does if one wanted to tarp. I'm not planning to stack small bales anytime soon. Has anyone removed the side racks from their stackers and how did you do it without wrecking anything? I have some ideas, but I'm not sure. I'm going to stop at the NH dealership to ask someday soon, but thought I would ask here also. I'm also wondering what to do with the air intake that goes into one of the side rack sections and pulls air from high up. I have very dusty floors in my buildings so having the air intake so high up is a good thing. I would have to put some sort of screen over the air intake hose if I was to take off the side racks. I'm just not sure what would be best.


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## Rodney R

I've seen ads for the new models with the milstak on it without sides. if I had one, that would be the first thing we would do, cause you can get narrower. if you have a forklift, you can take the sides off. maybe even a loader bucket and some straps. The key is to lift both the front and the back the same. That upper cross bar will have to come along down with the one side. You need to have a minimum of 2 people, cause one guy will need to steady the sides as the loader backs away and lets it down. They are not that heavy.

Rodney


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## Teslan

Rodney R said:


> I've seen ads for the new models with the milstak on it without sides. if I had one, that would be the first thing we would do, cause you can get narrower. if you have a forklift, you can take the sides off. maybe even a loader bucket and some straps. The key is to lift both the front and the back the same. That upper cross bar will have to come along down with the one side. You need to have a minimum of 2 people, cause one guy will need to steady the sides as the loader backs away and lets it down. They are not that heavy.
> 
> Rodney


Thanks Rodney. I was thinking along those lines, but I was trying to figure how to get the cross bar off first by itself. I don't know how far in the outside rack adjustment piece goes inside that cross bar. I didn't think about coming off with one side. I didn't take them off last year as I had thought that I was still going to do some small bales, but ended up not. I'm also thinking I might take of the 2 outside rear rack tines. Not the rolling rack but the furthest rear. Since I have a 3 wide stacker those tines never have the bales on them, but then I can't get close to a stack of bales I'm stacking right next to because those are there sticking out. Milstak doesn't tell you that in order to have a full 15 bale load you of 3x3s you have to have that crossbar either raised/modified or removed. I'm not really complaining as I would have bought it either way and still like it alot. I'm not sure how it is with 3x4 bales.


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## Vol

Balewagon Pallets; [with photos by Rodney R (post #17) ].

http://www.haytalk.com/forums/topic/18847-pallets-for-nh-1069-stacker/?hl=pallet#entry90859


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## hay hauler

Check out "Sunny D" clamps is klamath falls oregon. They compleatly rebuild the wagons for big bales. Might give ya some ideas.

Contact

http://www.oregonroadrunner.com/

Didnt see any pictures of them. But they are pritty cool in person. Might call and get some infor/pictures

https://www.facebook.com/pages/Bale-wagons/653386068027311


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## Teslan

hay hauler said:


> Check out "Sunny D" clamps is klamath falls oregon. They compleatly rebuild the wagons for big bales. Might give ya some ideas.
> 
> Contact
> 
> http://www.oregonroadrunner.com/
> 
> Didnt see any pictures of them. But they are pritty cool in person. Might call and get some infor/pictures
> 
> https://www.facebook.com/pages/Bale-wagons/653386068027311


Thanks Hayhauler, but I already have the Milstak clamp and the NH stacker which both work great. Just trying to be a bit more efficient.


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## hay hauler

Was thinkin more for building the short sides that are stonger. Then you could plum your intake into it. Maybe go half the height? And brace up the supports that are mounted to the frame. Wouldent want to weld on a nice new wagon.

Or do something nice looking to the top of the cab if posible, there kind of funny looking in a way...






Exhaust tubing usualy can be truned out to look nice. I ran mine back to the rack to make it more like the new ones and cleaner air with 3 inch tube. would guess you would need 4?








When taking them off no heavery than they are. you could use chans and then binders to find the right lenght (differnt situation but gets the point acrost)






, or heavey ratchet straps. If found it helps fine tune left and right adjustments.

The ones on my wagons are round pipe. (its old) So just tooked them to the load rack and lowered them down. was pritty simple.


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## Teslan

hay hauler said:


> Was thinkin more for building the short sides that are stonger. Then you could plum your intake into it. Maybe go half the height? And brace up the supports that are mounted to the frame. Wouldent want to weld on a nice new wagon.
> 
> Or do something nice looking to the top of the cab if posible, there kind of funny looking in a way...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2250128-6349404187586066752.jpg Exhaust tubing usualy can be truned out to look nice. I ran mine back to the rack to make it more like the new ones and cleaner air with 3 inch tube. would guess you would need 4?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 39A411FA-1EB2-440F-A17B-276560E53B72.jpeg
> 
> When taking them off no heavery than they are. you could use chans and then binders to find the right lenght (differnt situation but gets the point acrost)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> photo.JPG, or heavey ratchet straps. If found it helps fine tune left and right adjustments.
> 
> The ones on my wagons are round pipe. (its old) So just tooked them to the load rack and lowered them down. was pritty simple.


Plumbing the air intake forward to the cab could work. But I don't know if there is room for a 4-5 inch tube beside the frame. Then going underneath the first table/chain would be awful close to the ground. I wouldn't have to cross the stacker like you did since the air intake is on the other side on my stacker. Besides I couldn't cross like you did because the Milstak has a helper hydraulic lift and a big crossbeam support right there where you have yours crossing the frame.


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## Teslan

One of the things is that stacking big squares while in the field isn't as dusty as stacking small bales. There aren't 160 of them being pushed around on every load losing material and dust. It's just the unloading and driving down dirt roads that are just as dirty. I would suppose just making some sort of screen would work as well as the original intake systems on the 1069's and older before they started putting it into the side racks. Just have to blow out the filter more.


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## slowzuki

Room for a generic pre-filter?


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## Teslan

slowzuki said:


> Room for a generic pre-filter?


Excellent! I think there is. I just for some reason couldn't think of the word I was searching for . I was search for pre air filter screens and such. Just didn't put the pre in there.  Thanks!


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## S10491112

View attachment 1542




bbos said:


> Just a thought... do you think it would be possible to free stand a three wide stack by tying twine around every single tier? I would really like to be able to start stacks in fields without having to get a backstop around


 I make 3 wide blocks and I put 3 ties in each block 2 regular ties and 1 reverse tie and they stand real good with out stack poles. I also made portable back boards that I made from pallet racking.


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## Thumbtack

1032 bale wagon

Has anybody ever converted the rolling rack to hydraulic vs. spring


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## Chip74

I have a question maybe someone can help. I have two balewagons a 1079 and a1089. my problem is I run a 16 x 18 x 42 bale. The 1079 can only make a 15 block with that size bale (2nd table to short for the 6th throw up) So I also need to make a 15 block with the 1089 but there is no program in computer to do all 9 packs that way. The center tie tier we have to do by hand and the straight 15 block will not reverse the 3rd bale. (straight 15 block is for bulkhead stack) my barn would be really screwed up if one machine puts in 15 blocks and the other 18 blocks not to mention when we put up (we go 15 bales high).

By the way in case it matters we are doing straw not hay. Any suggestions other than lengthening 2nd table on 1079 and maybe raising uprights?


----------



## Guest

Chip74 said:


> I have a question maybe someone can help. I have two balewagons a 1079 and a1089. my problem is I run a 16 x 18 x 42 bale. The 1079 can only make a 15 block with that size bale (2nd table to short for the 6th throw up) So I also need to make a 15 block with the 1089 but there is no program in computer to do all 9 packs that way. The center tie tier we have to do by hand and the straight 15 block will not reverse the 3rd bale. (straight 15 block is for bulkhead stack) my barn would be really screwed up if one machine puts in 15 blocks and the other 18 blocks not to mention when we put up (we go 15 bales high).
> By the way in case it matters we are doing straw not hay. Any suggestions other than lengthening 2nd table on 1079 and maybe raising uprights?


If you want to make a 15 bale tier you can do it with the 1089 . I dont know how to do it off top of my head but i know you can make a custom stack pattern consisting of whatever you want. You go thru every 1st table lift and 2nd table lift. When i get back to my manuel ill explain exactly how if your interested. Its not hard.
BTW welcome to haytalk!


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## Teslan

Chip74 said:


> I have a question maybe someone can help. I have two balewagons a 1079 and a1089. my problem is I run a 16 x 18 x 42 bale. The 1079 can only make a 15 block with that size bale (2nd table to short for the 6th throw up) So I also need to make a 15 block with the 1089 but there is no program in computer to do all 9 packs that way. The center tie tier we have to do by hand and the straight 15 block will not reverse the 3rd bale. (straight 15 block is for bulkhead stack) my barn would be really screwed up if one machine puts in 15 blocks and the other 18 blocks not to mention when we put up (we go 15 bales high).
> 
> By the way in case it matters we are doing straw not hay. Any suggestions other than lengthening 2nd table on 1079 and maybe raising uprights?


When we first got our 1089 I was coming off a 1069 and thought that doing 15 a tier would be good. I did 16 inch bales as well. I tried the every tier programming thing, but for some reason, though I can't remember what the issue was now, but it wouldn't program right. Also I when I did do that the stacks wouldn't stand well. I gave it up and just did 18 bales a tier like it's meant to do. Though I'm sure you have noticed with the 1089 doing the full 18 a tier the side racks aren't high enough on the 1089 and the first tier can mess up easily. That's with the 16 inch bales.


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## Chip74

Thanks but my problem I am running both wagons into the same barn. But I appreciate your input.


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## Chip74

Thank you I searched manual long and hard but maybe I missed something.


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## Teslan

Chip74 said:


> Thanks but my problem I am running both wagons into the same barn. But I appreciate your input


Is how you are getting the bales out of the stacks the reason you are concerned about having different sizes of stacks? Or your barn design?


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## Chip74

The stacks will not be even if one machine is 15 block and 1 is 18 block not to mention we go another 6 layers high in barn. Not to mention when we take out with the grapple that is setup for 15


----------



## Guest

Chip74 said:


> Thank you I searched manual long and hard but maybe I missed something.


Making custom stack program (1089 1095):
1. Turn key switch" on"
2. Press and hold "spikes down" and "start reset" buttons untill a "p" appers
3. Press "stack" button to pick a letter combonation to name yor pattern
4. Enter tier codes using first and second table "count" button
5.Press "save" button after each tier
6. When finished press "start reset" button to save pattern
Note: when batery is disconected the custom stack patterns are erased.

I would just make it function exactly how your 1079 does. It should work but i have never tried it that way. Teslan mentioned he had dificulties with it but it still worth a try.


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## Teslan

bbos said:


> Making custom stack program (1089 1095):
> 1. Turn key switch" on"
> 2. Press and hold "spikes down" and "start reset" buttons untill a "p" appers
> 3. Press "stack" button to pick a letter combonation to name yor pattern
> 4. Enter tier codes using first and second table "count" button
> 5.Press "save" button after each tier
> 6. When finished press "start reset" button to save pattern
> Note: when batery is disconected the custom stack patterns are erased.
> 
> I would just make it function exactly how your 1079 does. It should work but i have never tried it that way. Teslan mentioned he had dificulties with it but it still worth a try.


Yes I could not get the tier sections to program right if I remember right. So much that they even switched out the computer while it was under warranty. It still wouldn't do it right, but with different results. I can't for the life of me really remember the problems. That was 12 years ago. I remember giving up on what I wanted to do with it though.


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## HALLSHAY

Here's one to make your brain go in a whole new direction. Built by John Randall for his farm in NY. The video was taken by a good friend from PA.

RandiB


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## slowzuki

I've read and heard of several people doing this with strapping and or twine but its the first video I've seen! Looks well fabricated.



HALLSHAY said:


> Here's one to make your brain go in a whole new direction. Built by John Randall for his farm in NY. The video was taken by a good friend from PA.
> 
> RandiB


----------



## AaronQ

ya it looks like a very well engineered machine thats for sure.

I love when guys actually take theyre time and do something right and make it look like it came from the factory with it.

The only thing i dont understand is that looks some kinda slow, what is everyones trepidation with making tie tiers i just cant figure it out.

set the wagon up right, it'll pick a tie tier as fast as it will a straight tier and to be honest in the video it didnt look like he was really pushing to get em up in a hurry, maybe for the effect of showing the machine work i dont know but even so it seems brutally slow to be tieing a loop around 3 or 4 tiers every load when all you need is to adjust the machine and the balers to make em work how they were designed to.


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## Rodney R

I was thinking that..... all the time spent for the strapping, when the 1st table has 3 on it, there is one in the chute, and you're pushing one, the last thing you wanna do is watch the strapping.....

What was the reason for the strapping? Is it for the way he ships them?

Rodney


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## HALLSHAY

I think the main reason is to get completely away from tie tiers in the barn for stacking purposes and for reloading. Most of his hay is reloaded back into vans and they never touch a bale. He also built a van loader so he can load by himself quickly. I think they are only strapping a few layers per load and then stacking on up in the barns. Tie tiers with 14x18's never were quite right with a 34" bale. Unles you want to make 28" bales, the math never works out right. Can you do it? Yes people do it all the time

"when all you need is to adjust the machine and the balers to make em work how they were designed to."

This is only 1 of John's projects. You should see how all 6 of his balers are set up! I -pads, Airbags for tension control (more accurate than hydraulics), scales, sensor to measure length, moisture sensors, all tied back together working to make consistent weight, length, and flakes per bale. I guarantee they are probably the most advance small balers in the world!


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## Guest

he is making tiers 7 wide. the straps probably help them squeeze 7 wide tiers into a van trailer. i wish i was able to do this


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## AaronQ

HALLSHAY said:


> I think the main reason is to get completely away from tie tiers in the barn for stacking purposes and for reloading. Most of his hay is reloaded back into vans and they never touch a bale. He also built a van loader so he can load by himself quickly. I think they are only strapping a few layers per load and then stacking on up in the barns. Tie tiers with 14x18's never were quite right with a 34" bale. Unles you want to make 28" bales, the math never works out right. Can you do it? Yes people do it all the time
> 
> "when all you need is to adjust the machine and the balers to make em work how they were designed to."
> 
> This is only 1 of John's projects. You should see how all 6 of his balers are set up! I -pads, Airbags for tension control (more accurate than hydraulics), scales, sensor to measure length, moisture sensors, all tied back together working to make consistent weight, length, and flakes per bale. I guarantee they are probably the most advance small balers in the world!


other then air tension we run all the same systems that we've either designed or modified from other products.

It makes things really nice from an operator status,

i dont understand what you mean about restacking them higher in the sheds but i dunno good bales with good ties can stack really well at 15-16 tiers high you just need to stagger your center to straight ties and its golden.

where's he located i'd love to see an operation with that kind of ingenuity behind it.


----------



## Guest

it looks like in the barn he only strapped 3 or 4 tiers not every single one. then he probably goes up from there. i only use 1 tie tier for 13 high stacks but id rather not tie at all. when you load out u dont have tie tiers to straiten out and this guy has tiers 7 wide so hes getting full loads on his vans.

i woukd also love to know how to



AaronQ said:


> other then air tension we run all the same systems that we've either designed or modified from other products.
> 
> It makes things really nice from an operator status,
> 
> i dont understand what you mean about restacking them higher in the sheds but i dunno good bales with good ties can stack really well at 15-16 tiers high you just need to stagger your center to straight ties and its golden.
> 
> where's he located i'd love to see an operation with that kind of ingenuity behind it.


 incorperate my i pad with my baler


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## Durhamfarms

Hey guys 
Been doing a lot of reading on here and I decided I would make my account and join the discussion. I have a 1069 that we are in the beginning stages of rebuilding so I'm sure more than one question will come up. First thing I would like to ask is about the stack side evener on this machine I believe it had it at one time but it is no longer all there. What is the purpose of this and should I replace the missing parts. Last question for now is what kind of clutch you guys are running this machine has the 460 gas in it but I'm not sure that a regular pick up clutch is heavy enough for the job.

Love the forum thanks in advance

Alex


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## Teslan

Yes I would replace the missing parts of the stack side evener. If you don't then possibly the tiers on the right side will be uneven and throw the whole stack off balance. Say like the bottom two tiers are in more the the upper tiers. I actually like the way the stack evener works better on the 1069 then the newer stackers. Whatever clutch that came with it is good enough for the job. Just try not to ride it alot.


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## Rodney R

Yea the evener is probably important, and if you make any tie tiers you have to have it, unless all your bales are perfectly sized, and I know that never happens.

Rodney


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## AaronQ

yup stack eveners make your job soooooo much easier and they'll stand a lot better as well as easier to load out.

The factory clutch on those machines seems to last a remarkably long time given the conditions they run in but just be careful not to ride it all the time either. its a 460 so keep your revs up and anticipate your shifts. and be gentle with your two speed axle they're not to fond of hard shifts or rammy clutch drops.


----------



## jb63

It took a while but here is the pics. of a hillside kit on a 1048


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## sonic

what model have the stack evener on? Any more information on Randi B bale wagon set up. Wondering if you could put pallets down and strap load to pallet, and then move whole pallet, talking on a 50 plus bale wagon.


----------



## Stoltzfus Hay Farm

I have a BW 38. I normally do 2 tie tiers, when i am doing the 2nd tie tier, the digital counter will skip a couple and mess up the tie tier. For example, when the 1st table goes up the 3rd time, the counter should say 3 but skips to 5 or 6 and will flip the 2nd table up or will lower the tie tier teeth too early and i have to reset it. This only happens on the 2nd tie tier (the 7th tier.) We checked the sensor and it seemed to be clean and ok. Any advice?

Also, we have a big problem picking up bales when the due comes in and our 1st table can hardly push even 6 bales on the 2nd table. I read earlier about using automotive wax or cooking oil on the tables. I will try this the next time we are picking up in the evening. Any other advice for this?

Thanks, Quintin Stoltzfus


----------



## Teslan

Stoltzfus Hay Farm said:


> I have a BW 38. I normally do 2 tie tiers, when i am doing the 2nd tie tier, the digital counter will skip a couple and mess up the tie tier. For example, when the 1st table goes up the 3rd time, the counter should say 3 but skips to 5 or 6 and will flip the 2nd table up or will lower the tie tier teeth too early and i have to reset it. This only happens on the 2nd tie tier (the 7th tier.) We checked the sensor and it seemed to be clean and ok. Any advice?
> 
> Also, we have a big problem picking up bales when the due comes in and our 1st table can hardly push even 6 bales on the 2nd table. I read earlier about using automotive wax or cooking oil on the tables. I will try this the next time we are picking up in the evening. Any other advice for this?
> 
> Thanks, Quintin Stoltzfus


Have you tried replacing the 2nd table sensor? I don't think they cost to much. I haven't had a sensor fail on our 1089 in 13 years. Hopefully it's not the computer as those things are much more expensive to replace. Maybe a dealer could restore it to it's default? I don't know if that's possible.

What I do when the dew doesn't allow hay to slide is well is quite simple. I wait for the dew to dry off.  But in all seriously. Those tables are so very slick anyways. I don't know if wax or oil would help. That would scrap off very quickly I think.


----------



## Rodney R

Quintin,

That might have been my BW38...... When the dew comes, cooking spray will work. You will need to reapply it for each load. I will do 2 passes on the 1st table (once on each tube), and a few passes inside the loader, and 3 passes on the 2nd table - for sure no farther back then the 2nd bale would sit. I won't apply in the loader for each load, unless it gets real sticky. Get the cheapest cooking spray you can get - you can use a can or 2 in one night, but it will work like the sun is shining.

Rodney


----------



## Rodney R

I was thinking more about the sensor...... that's just a proximity sensor, it should have a light on it, and when the light is on it's OK????? Switch it with another one and see if the problem follows the sensor. I highly doubt it's just the sensor, that would be too cheap!

Rodney


----------



## jpettigrew

Like many others, I have been frustrated with New Holland bale wagon computer problems. I have a 1075 that I got fed up with so we built our own computer! It will be controled in the cab like the original one but will also have remote control by blue tooth to a computer tablet. We will be testing it out tommorrow. Let me know if you want to know how it works out.


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## hay hauler

The tablet thing sounds cool!


----------



## S10491112

I'm finished with hay for 2015. Ya! Although my rolling rack on my S1049 needs some TLC has anyone took one off? I have done a lot of work to my S1049 over the years I've owned it but I have looked at taking the rolling rack off before didn't see how it would come off. I know it must just jump off I'm just not seeing it.


----------



## hay hauler

Pull the rollers off. Side, and main ones. Think it's 1 1/4 or 1 1/8 bolt on the mains.

Careful with the springs! They are under a lot of pressure if you just do it by hand.

Eliminator manufacturing is a great place to get parts.


----------



## RCGW

I have a New Holland 1031 Stackerwagon. The rolling racks on the 3rd table stick and won't move back. Any ideas on
how to fix this and what causes it?


----------



## Bob M

Looking for a supplier for front end parts for a super 1049 bale wagon. I need tie rod ends and king pins. It has a Rockwell front axle. Thanks


----------



## Bob M

I found my parts from the great guys at Truck Parts Inc. in North Carolina, 704-332-7909. These guys are great at finding older hard to find parts. Got both tie rods and 2 king pins kits for a little less than $300. The new Holland dealer wanted about $1000. Also Tom from Roeder stack wagon sales in Kansas 785-336-6103 called me back and gave me the NAPA number for the king pins. Tom also a very helpful.


----------



## toddhandy

I am looking for a cable for the header on a 1037. Where can i get one and anyone have a part number? I dont need the control or leaver just the cable the outside coating is broken on mine.

Thanks.

Found everything I need on Sod Busters


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## Marc_in_CO

Greetings,

I'm new to the forum, there's so much great info here!

I recently purchase an old 1034 PT stack wagon and when I lift the second table it wont go over vertical so the bale hooks at the top wont catch that tier. The whole tier will just fall back down with the table. I've completely removed the adjusting screw that is actuated to stop the table and send it back, so it should be reaching the top of its travel when I pull the handle. Is there any other adjustment?

Also, the left side of the second table sits a little forward of the lip where it rests in the down position. Could this have something to do with it?

Any help would be appreciated, I'm running out of ideas.

Marc


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## toddhandy

Welcome to the Forum Marc.

Here are some basic things to check.

Is everything else working First table, third table and push off rams? I have never owned a 1034 I an sure that it has a single bale unload option. that could have something to with the problem.

Check the hydraulic level.

The cylinder on the 2nd table is a 1 way cylinder, it has a vent on it to let the air out on its way back down. Make sure that the vent not plugged. If it is not plugged is there oil coming out when the table comes back down? If so your o-ring is bad, that cylinder is very easy to rebuild.

When you pull the leaver up to lift the second table you can lock it in the up position. Not sure if you have tried that, also try that with no bales on the table.

Here is a like from another forum that talks about the adjustment on the second table. Hope this helps

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/new-holland-ag-tractors/235788-1033-bale-wagon-hydraulic-conversion.html


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## 2270XD

How has NH solved the fire risk issue around the engine. I have a new SP Milstak and some days we put out multiple fires.





  








Milstak




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2270XD


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Jun 6, 2017




Hay fire


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## louthanhay

We are running a NH S-1049 and are having trouble with the rolling rack. We did 6 or 7 loads perfectly and now is is rolling back on us. Any suggestion? The cabe has already been checked to meet specs!


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## sixtyninegmc

We have a S1049 that just started giving us problems with the hydraulics. All the hydraulic functions are jerking, the rams and chains move a couple inches, stop, move a couple more inches, stop. And it doesn't have enough hydraulics to move the pickup chain and cross chain at the same time. Increasing RPMs makes the issue worse, not better. I've never had a pump fail with these symptoms, I'm thinking a relief valve? Checked and changed filters, and they are on the pressure side, so I don't think it is starving for oil.


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## sixtyninegmc

Just a quick update on what I found, it turned out to be algae in the hydraulic system. Cleaned and flushed the system, and everything works good as new. Tank was full of giant yellow boogers, I've fought algae in fuel tanks before, but in hydraulic oil is a first for me.


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## jimrm

I am running an old 1046 balewagon here. The problem I'm having is if I stop too fast or even go over some uneven ground, the last row that just got flipped up by the second table will buckle in the middle and fall back to the second table. It is a very frustrating issue on a hot day to re-stack as the top bales are hard to get lifted that high. Has anyone added some fingers or something to hold the center of the stack in place? If so what did you use?

Thanks, Jim


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## Josh in WNY

jimrm said:


> I am running an old 1046 balewagon here. The problem I'm having is if I stop too fast or even go over some uneven ground, the last row that just got flipped up by the second table will buckle in the middle and fall back to the second table. It is a very frustrating issue on a hot day to re-stack as the top bales are hard to get lifted that high. Has anyone added some fingers or something to hold the center of the stack in place? If so what did you use?
> 
> Thanks, Jim


Jim, I run a pull-type 1033 stacker wagon so I might not be able to help too much. The first thing I would check would be the rolling rack to make sure nothing was binding up. If the rolling rack gets twisted or there are bent spots in the track that is runs on, it can cause problems. The other thing to check would be the return trip of the 2nd table. If that got bent or out of adjustment, it may not be putting the bales fully onto the load rack.

Hope this help,

Josh


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## jimrm

Josh, I think it was the rolling rack that had the problem. Three of the four rollers had flat spots worn on them. Welded them up and turned on the lathe with the proper taper to fit the channel. It rolls a lot better now.


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## jimrm

Just a quick confirmation on the rolling rack. It was the problem, it wasn't moving back easy enough and was causing the bales to compress when the second table went up. When the second table went down the stack would relax and move the last row halfway off the third table edge.


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## onthehill

Need help. I picked up a NH 1033 at a farm sale. The 2nd table went up OK but will not lower. Any ideas.


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## SpeckleCreekRanch

Can you lower it manually? It may only need the return linkage adjusted. Send the table up and then have a look on the right hand side of the machine under the arm that trips to send the table upwards. There are a couple nuts on a rod you can adjust to change how far the second table will push the last load back, they may need adjusting. You can use a stick to manually work the linkage safely out of way to get a feel for how it works without having bales on the machine.


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## Eric W 998

I have a NH 1049 that we purchased last year. Everything works on the machine, except the first table will not lower on its own, however it can be lowered manually. Can't seem to figure out what is supposed to trip the table back down once the cylinder has reached the end of the stroke. Tried doing some research, but couldn't figure anything out. Thought someone here might have some experience with it.


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## HayMike

The linkage is right behind the cab, under the first table. Clean and lube, adjust according to manual.


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## Marc_in_CO

H&S Farms,
Did you ever figure out the issue with the 2nd table stopping midway?



H&S Farms said:


> on the 1049 it just stops once the lever returns. I have to finish the cycle using the lever.
> 
> As for the 1069, talked to roeder imp. KS today and it was a pretty simple fix. I had to remove the cover on the back side of the valve body and free the pool up. Luckily for me I believe it was just ceased to the cover cause as soon as I removed it it freed up. Mine has a seperate lever as well.
> 
> I love the 1069 vs my old 1049! (so far) moved around 1200 bales with it today, and that's a sweeet machine!


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## coorskurt

I'm new to the forum.

I recently bought a 1047S bale wagon.

It is well used and abused.

My Question is about the brake booster. It has a unit below the master cylinder that has a port that pulls vacuum. Is it supposed to connect with a hose to somewere?

Any help would be appreciated.


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## Ray 54

coorskurt said:


> I'm new to the forum.
> 
> I recently bought a 1047S bale wagon.
> 
> It is well used and abused.
> 
> My Question is about the brake booster. It has a unit below the master cylinder that has a port that pulls vacuum. Is it supposed to connect with a hose to somewere?
> 
> Any help would be appreciated.


Most of the running gear on the old bale wagons is Ford F600. Find a old service book for Ford and see if it looks the same.


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## [email protected]

Morning All:

Does anyone have a source for used or new bellhousing for Perkins 354 to New Process 435 transmission in a 1069?

The gas 460 was needing $2500 in parts to maybe get running reasonably, obviously still gas. Neighbor had a White 8900 with a T6.354.4 running nicely for a lot less, so it is transplant time. Obviously, the combine did not have any usable bellhousing.

Any other advice on this job?


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## Panhead

I purchased a NH 1034 bale wagon and have one little problem I can't figure out, and I currently don't have an operator manual its ordered but not here yet. When I lower the loading chute it stops 6 to 8" from the ground and chain does not rotate unless I hold the activation handle? I am sure it is something simple I am missing , could someone help me out?


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## Marc_in_CO

Panhead,

The loading chute's height can be adjusted via the clevis that is threaded onto the end of the hydraulic lift cylinder. simply support the loading chute to take the weight off the cylinder, loosing the clamp-screw on the clevis and spin the rod (by the flats) to desired height. Note that the manual says to adjust it within ~3" of flat ground; it should not drag around.

I believe the handle for the loading chain has a spring return, to prevent it from running continuously. I recall seeing something in the manual about abstaining from continuous operation, to prevent motor over-heating.

Hope this helps.


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## Marc_in_CO

coorskurt said:


> I'm new to the forum.
> 
> I recently bought a 1047S bale wagon.
> 
> It is well used and abused.
> 
> My Question is about the brake booster. It has a unit below the master cylinder that has a port that pulls vacuum. Is it supposed to connect with a hose to somewere?
> 
> Any help would be appreciated.


did you figure this out? I suspect it goes to the same place as my 1049, which is somewhere on the intake manifold. let me know if not and I'll snap a picture next time I'm by it.


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## Panhead

I have another question on a NH 1034 the main or 3rd deck rolling frame question the rollers on the outside of the frame that moves back are bent out away from the table and I need to cut them off and weld them back on, how much play should I allow between the rollers and the table to keep the rack from getting cock eyed?


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## Ganymede77

Not sure if this is where I ask but...

I am in Tasmania Australia I have a 1034 pull type and have just cooked the hydraulic pump.

can I plumb the hydraulics into the tractor?

pumps are unavailable in OZ so I would need to source 1 from overseas but that is quite expensive.

Any other ideas would be appreciated.


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## Panhead

I have a 1034 bale wagon I am working on I got the operator manual but it doesn't show where a 1/8" cable runs to it starts under the third table and looks like it goes down to a plastic pully then another pully then a couple eyelets going towards the front but cant find where the other end connects mine is missing but it shows connected at one end for the rolling rack control?


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## Marc_in_CO

Panhead said:


> I have a 1034 bale wagon I am working on I got the operator manual but it doesn't show where a 1/8" cable runs to it starts under the third table and looks like it goes down to a plastic pully then another pully then a couple eyelets going towards the front but cant find where the other end connects mine is missing but it shows connected at one end for the rolling rack control?


looking at a photo I have, I'm pretty sure I got it right in the text bubble in the picture below. Next time I'm by the machine I'll check and update if incorrect. One end of the cable is connected to the lever under the 3rd table that moves the load rack back and forth and the other is connected as shown below. I don't use the single bale unload, but I have been able to get the load rack to move forward by pulling the control rod labeled "single bale unload" full forward and gently releasing. This allows you to get the load rack moving forward while getting back to the field. once its all the way forward and hydraulics start screeching, you can give the same control road a sharp tug and quick release to send the lever under the 3rd table to it's neutral position. for all this to work, 2nd table may need to be held part way up.


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