# 2012 New Holland BR7060 round baler



## Sherman Farms

Finally sold the old Vermeer 604J and purchased a 2012 New Holland BR7060 with mega wide pickup net/twine and a few other bells and whisteles. Anybody running one of these balers right now and your thoughts on them. Went with new holland mainly because of the service at dealer and closeest to us for parts. I also like greasable bearings.


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## downtownjr

Congrats on the new baler...I have heard good things about them...but I have nothing that new. Drop us some pics.

Be Safe


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## Sherman Farms

Sorry i've tried loading pis but size is to large to attach.


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## rjmoses

Congratulations on the 7080. I think you'll be happy. A buddy of mine down the road bought one 2 years ago. He likes it a lot.

The 7080 is the updated version of the 780 line. I've been running a 780 for 5 years now. I put the automatic greaser on, then added the auto oiler and last year added the Harvestec acid appllicator. All three options are worth the money.

But one of the best options I added was the upper belt separator arms. When I was across hillsides, the belts would want to drift and flipped twice on me. One of those tore up the belt splicing. Those upper arms keep the belts from drifting.

The real key to making good bales with this darling is to have a windrow that looks like two Twinkies laying side by side. With these windrows you don't have to weave back and forth and you end up with a bale that has a slight dip in the middle. I use either a 8 wheel or 12 wheel V rake.

Ralph


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## endrow

We started off this year with a NH 648 and after 150 bales we upgraded to a new Br7060 with bale slice . W e have 770 bales on our 2012 Br7060.All has gone well I think with this baler.When baling narrow windrows it is even more difficult to avoid egg shape bales than with the old baler. Or maybe i never quite figured out how to zig and zag when doing narrow wind rows ?


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## NEHerdsman

I thought all these newer balers had a monitor which showed pretty clearly whether the bale was being formed evenly side to side? That's one of the main features I'd look for when I finally upgrade. We're still using an old Case 8420 that has nothing but one mechanical indicator to show the bale size, and it's a true art to get even bales with this thing. I've bee running to long enough to do pretty well at that, my system is to try and feed both sides as evenly as your judgement will allow until you get to an almost complete bale. At that point I run hay in one side until the indicator is just below the fill mark, then switch sides and run hay in the other side until the indicator bumps up that last little bit to "full". Works, but hardly "convenient". And I end up doing all the baling, as I don't have the patience to watch other people learn what I had to even with my coaching. So I was really counting on two things in an upgrade - net wrap, and a decent bale monitoring system.


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## somedevildawg

The 7060 has a basic monitor that is fairly useless for keeping track of side loading, let's you know when the tye is happening though....


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## somedevildawg

Think this may be a 7080 if it has net wrap, didn't think the 7060 had net but perhaps it does...


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## OhioHay

We have a 2010 br7060. It has a both the net/twine option(never used the twine) and the bale command monitor that monitors bale size for each side and lets you change bale size from the monitor. It has been a great baler. We have over 5,000 bales on it without any hiccups. We stayed with NH because we had a 640 before it and in 13 years and over 20,000 bales we only had one main roller bearing and the cam pickup bearings go out. Still have that baler for a backup. I hope the br holds up the same.


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## somedevildawg

Since researching this I found that indeed the 7060 came with net, perhaps more than came with just twine, like mine, can't be that many idiots out there.....


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## mlappin

Before I upgraded I found several CHEAP!! BR740A's and BR7060's, the reason why they were cheap, somebody got silly and ordered a baler with no bale command and strictly a mechanical twine wrap.

Don't be a tight ass, get the Bale Command, the net alone is more than worth it, let alone the bale shape indicator's and the ability to switch between twine and net on the go, lets not even bring up the ability to change number of wraps and bale size on the go.


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## downtownjr

Can the machines without bale command be upgraded easily? If so, any idea on costs?


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## JD3430

Sherman Farms said:


> Finally sold the old Vermeer 604J and purchased a 2012 New Holland BR7060 with mega wide pickup net/twine and a few other bells and whisteles. Anybody running one of these balers right now and your thoughts on them. Went with new holland mainly because of the service at dealer and closeest to us for parts. I also like greasable bearings.


I bought one at end of season sale. The gave me like $6,000 cash back and financed it for me for 3%. 
I did a light 3rd cutting baling with it. It's real nice to have a new baler. Mine has mega wide pickup, sileage special, bale command plus that does everything except serve you cold beverages and it has net or twine wrap. You can even continue to bale if the bale command breaks. it has a manual rocker switch and an over ride plug that bypasses the BCP.


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## 8gross

So how does the NH net wrap compare to everyone else?


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## mlappin

Far as I know, no they can't. You have to change wiring harnesses, add the sensors, buy the command module, etc. Gets prohibitively expensive real quick. Just trying to add a bale slice requires changing the wiring harness from what I was told, cheaper to just buy a baler with what you want.


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## downtownjr

mlappin said:


> Far as I know, no they can't. You have to change wiring harnesses, add the sensors, buy the command module, etc. Gets prohibitively expensive real quick. Just trying to add a bale slice requires changing the wiring harness from what I was told, cheaper to just buy a baler with what you want.


Thanks...I did not know. Shows that when paying for a new machine it is better to get everything you need because pinching pennies in some situations cost you money, time and are hard to upgrade. Also the trade value goes down quickly.


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## Nitram

One side note on Twinkies windrows. If the hay is thin you still need to weave a bit keep edges of rows touching and weave if it doesn't fill pickup edge to edge. I've had two bales split in half's. Cows ate them with no complaints. Martin


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## rjmoses

Nitram said:


> One side note on Twinkies windrows. If the hay is thin you still need to weave a bit keep edges of rows touching and weave if it doesn't fill pickup edge to edge. I've had two bales split in half's. Cows ate them with no complaints. Martin


True.

Thin hay can be a little hard to deal with. My last cutting this summer needed two passes with a 27' rake, then a third pass to roll them together, to get a decent windrow. Even so, the hay was so thin that, even though I baled at 14-16% moisture, the center of the bales were so tight that they caramelized! The outer 8-10" looked really good, but the inside was wrapped so tight that I don't think they could breathe.

Ralph


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## JD3430

Br7060 pictures took me for insurance company


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## Damonm

it's very good.


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## Will 400m

Nice looking baler you got there. Why did your insurance company want pictures?


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## JD3430

Will 400m said:


> Nice looking baler you got there. Why did your insurance company want pictures?


They want them to know its condition when purchased.


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## balerguy1975

We just bought a 7090 Special Crop Baler, looking forward to it. I probably am crazy, but my 568 has to much little shit happening with it and the net wrap was giving me grief. I love the dealer service that our NH dealer gives and they always have lots of inventory if a person has a break down. I don't like the idea of carrying net wrap around to the front of the baler but other than that should be all good.


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## discbinedr

Bought a brand new br7060 ss last winter. First new large piece of equipment ever. Just a few more days........


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## jescoag

I have the exact baler BR-7060 Net/twine with wide pickup, new last year. I have 600 bales on it now and had the first issue with Netwrap. It appears that something, small gravel or stones , got in the feed area and caused the netwrap to tear. Also found a bolt too long on the netwrap brake, rubbed on the back of the twine box. Rather than fight the problem in the field I just finished the day in twine and waited until it was cool to fix. Cover Edgewrap is a good as JD or any other that I have seen. Vermeer is strongest!


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## JD3430

I've had spotty problems with my 6 month old BR7060 with only 400 bales made this year:

1. Baler chamber with read full (60") and I will get the dreaded "error" beeping. Roll will not wrap. Arrow blinks at the actuator on bale command screen. Seems like the actuator gets confused and I have to retract it. Once or twice, I had to dump a full unwrapped bale on the ground which is a big mess. I think this may be because sometimes I forget to fully close back door. I think there should be an alarm that keeps beeping when the door is not fully closed.

2. Left/right bar graphs blink constantly, drives me nuts. Even if I correct the shortage of hay on one side, then the other side starts beatin my ears to death.

I have also had issues with tears in New Holland net wrap. Causes error signal and lots of stress. I'm beginning to wonder if it wasn't stored in sunlight.

I will NEVER buy another baler without and acid system and crop gathering wheels, either.
Not after the spring I've been through.


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## FarmerCline

JD3430 said:


> I've had spotty problems with my 6 month old BR7060 with only 400 bales made this year:
> 1. Baler chamber with read full (60") and I will get the dreaded "error" beeping. Roll will not wrap. Arrow blinks at the actuator on bale command screen. Seems like the actuator gets confused and I have to retract it. Once or twice, I had to dump a full unwrapped bale on the ground which is a big mess. I think this may be because sometimes I forget to fully close back door. I think there should be an alarm that keeps beeping when the door is not fully closed.
> 2. Left/right bar graphs blink constantly, drives me nuts. Even if I correct the shortage of hay on one side, then the other side starts beatin my ears to death.
> I have also had issues with tears in New Holland net wrap. Causes error signal and lots of stress. I'm beginning to wonder if it wasn't stored in sunlight.
> I will NEVER buy another baler without and acid system and crop gathering wheels, either.
> Not after the spring I've been through.


 If I had a new baler that was 6 months old and was having problems like that the dealer WOULD be doing something about it or else. Those small problems could turn into expensive problems when the warranty is up.

I bought a used round baler that was just a few years old when I started out year before last it always seemed to a have a small issue here and there and over time those issues became more and more and it became a pain to use. Since there was no warranty the dealer was working on it with my money, the first time it didn't fix it so I took it back and they promised me they fixed it the second time. I tried it out on some not too good hay and if any thing they made it worse. It makes me mad I paid two expensive repair bills and still have a baler that is practically inoperable. I absolutely can't afford to spend any more money on it so since the dealer swears there is nothing wrong with it I am just going to say I didn't use it since I am going all square bales for the time being( which is mostly true) and I am going to let them sell it for me and then it will be their problem when the customer wants his money back and not mine. I really hate to do this but I don't know how else to get rid of it and not completely lose my shirt and this is my second bad experience with this dealer so I don't plan to do business with them in the future, so if they they think there is nothing wrong with it that's fine they can deal with it their mechanics should know more than me anyways.


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## JD3430

Try a Vermeer baler. I heard they were excellent


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## discbinedr

Tightened the belts on my 2012 br7060ss today after 800 bales because they were starting to slip. Think the feeder slip clutch goes off to quick but otherwise works like a charm.Really like this baler but it's the only one I've ever run so maybe I just don't know better.


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## FarmerCline

JD3430 said:


> Try a Vermeer baler. I heard they were excellent


 That's what mine was, a Vermeer 554xl, however I do like the new vermeer balers and I wouldn't hesitate buying one because of the trouble I have had with this one as all brands probably have a lemon or two.


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## mlappin

JD3430 said:


> I've had spotty problems with my 6 month old BR7060 with only 400 bales made this year:
> 
> 1. Baler chamber with read full (60") and I will get the dreaded "error" beeping. Roll will not wrap. Arrow blinks at the actuator on bale command screen. Seems like the actuator gets confused and I have to retract it. Once or twice, I had to dump a full unwrapped bale on the ground which is a big mess. I think this may be because sometimes I forget to fully close back door. I think there should be an alarm that keeps beeping when the door is not fully closed.
> 
> 2. Left/right bar graphs blink constantly, drives me nuts. Even if I correct the shortage of hay on one side, then the other side starts beatin my ears to death.
> 
> I have also had issues with tears in New Holland net wrap. Causes error signal and lots of stress. I'm beginning to wonder if it wasn't stored in sunlight.
> 
> I will NEVER buy another baler without and acid system and crop gathering wheels, either.
> Not after the spring I've been through.


1: They do, if the tailgate isn't shut you should get an error message on the screen and the alarm. You have x amount of time to dump a bale then get it closed up before the alarm goes off.

2: Make your rows 4-5' wide when raking and no need for the indicators. Wider rows will also dry faster. Only time I have any need to look at the indicators is when I'm baling for other people. Some just can't grasp the concept of "make the f*cking rows wider please". Nothing worse than trying to bale a 3' wide row into a 4' bale, guaranteed to get barrel shaped bales then. When other people rake, I charge more for baling, the wrong idjit raking can make an otherwise enjoyable task (cab, AC and radio while running the baler) a miserable SOB to finish.

Get the manual out for the monitor and bale shape can be set to not react as fast to changes in the bale, alarm point can also be raised.


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## JD3430

"Wider windrows dry faster"
I haven't had it work for me. Seems like to me skinny sparse windrows would dry faster since they breathe easier. 
I do try to make side by side windrows. I hate the "skinny weave" process in the tractor.


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## mike10

JD3430 said:


> I've had spotty problems with my 6 month old BR7060 with only 400 bales made this year:
> 
> 1. Baler chamber with read full (60") and I will get the dreaded "error" beeping. Roll will not wrap. Arrow blinks at the actuator on bale command screen. Seems like the actuator gets confused and I have to retract it. Once or twice, I had to dump a full unwrapped bale on the ground which is a big mess. I think this may be because sometimes I forget to fully close back door. I think there should be an alarm that keeps beeping when the door is not fully closed.
> 
> 2. Left/right bar graphs blink constantly, drives me nuts. Even if I correct the shortage of hay on one side, then the other side starts beatin my ears to death.
> 
> I have also had issues with tears in New Holland net wrap. Causes error signal and lots of stress. I'm beginning to wonder if it wasn't stored in sunlight.
> 
> I will NEVER buy another baler without and acid system and crop gathering wheels, either.
> Not after the spring I've been through.


Check how much clearance you have between the tailgate sensor and the tailgate pin with an empty baler. You should find a way to get the sensor as close as possible to the pin. At 60" there is a lot of pressure on the latches and the tailgate will move as far back as the latches allow which is probably causing the magnet in the sensor to loose the magnetic contact with the pin. When the system sees the tailgate open during a wrapping cycle the actuator will stop moving and thus you need to use the retract key.

While you can change the sensitivity of the bar graphs you can also turn them off. With the factory setting the alarm should not go off until there is a differential of 4 bars between the two sides. It can also be set at 2 4 or 6 bar differential I think. The biggest problem I see when riding with the operators is they fail to move far enough to the side to fill the end of the bale. This is mostly caused by their tractors wheel setting being to narrow and they use their front wheels for a gauge on where to drive. Also 95% of the operators will not fill the left side of the baler. They move slower to fill the left then to their right and when they do go to fill the left side they do not stay as long on the left side as they do on the right. In our hill country they simply do not get fully to the left side because of the side draft and using their front wheels for a gauge. I should mention that we deal mainly with 5 ft wide balers. I also tell new operators not to fixate on the bar graphs. You can also turn the volume down so it is not as annoying.

As for the net tearing I would look at the brake tension. Too much tension will cause the net to pop back up the baffle and the net will not start on the next bale or when the net is inserted into the bale chamber the bale will only grab a filament of net and not start but when you go to rethread the net you will find it ripped because the filament was pulled into the bale while the rest of the net did not follow.


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## mlappin

mike10 said:


> As for the net tearing I would look at the brake tension. Too much tension will cause the net to pop back up the baffle and the net will not start on the next bale or when the net is inserted into the bale chamber the bale will only grab a filament of net and not start but when you go to rethread the net you will find it ripped because the filament was pulled into the bale while the rest of the net did not follow.


Possibly, but to be honest I've run Farmer's, Pritchett,another brand and NH net wrap, if JD describing what I think he is the only time i've had that problem is with NH net wrap.


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## mike10

mlappin said:


> Possibly, but to be honest I've run Farmer's, Pritchett,another brand and NH net wrap, if JD describing what I think he is the only time i've had that problem is with NH net wrap.


You may be right but we have seen it with other brands also. We have had several people switch to NH net because of such problems with other net. The braking system between your baler and JD's is different and I think the new system applies to much tension if not adjusted properly.


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## mlappin

mike10 said:


> You may be right but we have seen it with other brands also. We have had several people switch to NH net because of such problems with other net. The braking system between your baler and JD's is different and I think the new system applies to much tension if not adjusted properly.


That's quite possible, can't remember who used to make NH's net wrap, but when it was made in Israel I never had a problem with it, when they switched manufactures and it started coming from Greece is when my problems started. Everything from not starting to not wanting to cut it on my previous 644 unless the knife was very sharp.

Running Pritchett now and pretty happy with it, seems heavier than most.


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## somedevildawg

You guys are making me like my br 7060....I hate that it doesn't have net wrap because of the time savings, other than that, I could care less about net, the monitor is so basic I usually don't even use it, don't have to....although the alarm is nice to remind you that it's tying....got it set to make as big a bale as possible. Have started having problems with it not starting the twine wrap consistently, sometimes it misses, mostly on the left side for some reason...pita have to get outta tractor and trip the system to tye again....just started this last season, need to check and see if there are any adjustments for this, have to break out the manual I guess..


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