# New holland 654 baler issues



## MOhillbilly (Jun 2, 2018)

I bought a 654 NH baler last year replaced the sledges and slip clutches hoping it would be a decent baler for awhile and it seemed to baled pretty good but now most of the time the string will not start going on the bale unless I get off and pull the end of the string out farther. Any help with this issue would be greatly appreciated!


----------



## SCtrailrider (May 1, 2016)

How tight is your string, if too tight it won't want to feed when it's tripped..

My 648 will do that sometimes in very dry hay also.


----------



## SCtrailrider (May 1, 2016)

When the string is too tight it snaps back when the tie is tripped and the cutter releases the string..


----------



## mike10 (May 29, 2011)

I loosen the bolts on the tension plates so there is no tension on the twine.

At the end of each twine tub extension is a plug to keep the twine from popping back up the arm. The original plug design used an extension spring to keep the plug against the end of the twine tube. The later design used a compression spring with a 1/4" bolt down the center of the plug. The extension springs can get weak and not hold the plug tight to the end of the twine tube.

The twine tubes wear where the twine runs against the end of the tube eventually cutting a groove in the end of the twine tube. The result is the plug does not hold the twine against the end of the twine tube. The extension tubes have one bolt to hold them in place. Switch the right and left twine tubes and the wear area will be at a location where the twine does not run so the plug can hold the twine. Pay attention to the location of the spacers and washers when switching the tubes.

I have also seen where people thread the twine down the tube past the springs and out the end of the twine tubes. The twine does not go past the springs, it goes under the twine tube in the spring location and then back up through the ring and plug on the end of the twine tube.


----------



## MOhillbilly (Jun 2, 2018)

Thanks a lot ! I will look at this and see if that is the issue, I hope so I am tired of getting off the tractor for every bale.


----------



## MOhillbilly (Jun 2, 2018)

I took a look at my baler and I think the tie arms are not coming all the way back (towards the tractor) before stopping. Is it out of time or do I have other issues? How do you adjust them or time them?


----------



## mike10 (May 29, 2011)

How far from the knives are the twine tubes when the autowrap stops rotating? The drag link can be adjusted so the arms come up farther, but before you adjust the link, you need to move a collar on the left twine arm pivot shaft. It is shown on page 4 of the link below. After adjusting the drag link, rotate the collar so there is about 1/8" clearance between the collar and the brake away latch. Check that your break away latch is not tripped. I would not think it is because I do not believe the twine tubes would get up far enough for the twine to enter the knives, but I could be wrong.

http://www.haytalk.com/forums/index.php?app=core&module=attach&section=attach&attach_id=55562


----------



## pettibone (Jul 18, 2015)

On my 648 baler I usually keep feeding some hay in after the alarm sounds, just stop as soon as twine starts feeding in. You could try that


----------



## Gary101 (Jun 4, 2017)

I have found on my 650 that I have to use the cheaper limber type poly string and it feeds with little problem. If I put in the stiffer string I have constant problems with the feed.


----------

