# Bale Wagon Pallets - Rodney R



## lfc (Jun 23, 2010)

I think I need to build some pallets this season. My barn floor is stone dust covered with a layer of plastic, covered by more stone dust (to protect the plastic), covered with 4" of 1" crushed stone but my bottom bales still get dusty. Nature of the New England humid weather I guess. For some reason, 2nd cut doesn't get dusty - only the 1st cut. Laying down a layer of loose hay helps but I still have to make excuses for the bottom bales. I run an old 1047 wagon, so based on previous posts the pallets should be about 72" deep and 108" wide. It sounds like the wooden ones are preferred over the metal ones. I was planning to get some pine 1 1/2"x4's sawn for the runners, and pine 3/4"x4's sawn for the cross pieces. I'm not sure what to do for the metal mesh though, as the cattle panels at the local farm store are 8' or 16' wide, and I need 9'. Any suggestions?


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## HayMike (Mar 22, 2011)

Went through the same thing, it's humid here too. 3 inches of asphalt fixed the problem permanently, no bad bales in 4 years. Easy to clean, and nice to drive on.

Mike


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## 8350HiTech (Jul 26, 2013)

Buy 16s and sell the 7' sections on Craigslist or buy 8s and start splicing.


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## Snow Farmer (Aug 30, 2011)

Ifc, why are you using mesh? Is it to keep rodents from burrowing up into the hay?

We use pallets to store our hay on.

I have a concrete floor in my hay barn (it was the previous owner's shop that had collapsed under a snow load a few months before I bought the place) We erected a pole barn around the slab.

2 reasons for pallets; in the early years we sometimes had run off water flowing into the barn, not much, but it spreads out.

The second reason is to allow air circulation under and through the bales.

Our square bales we keep in a loft, stacked on pallets, for the same reason.

My thinking is that if there is a little bit too much moisture in the hay, the air space might help in allowing it to dry rather than heat up.

We started building 5' x 5' pallets for the round bales, stacking the bales on their flat end.

The pallet tops are wood 2 x 6's spaced about 31/2" apart, the skids are 4 x 4's. These have proved to be quite rugged, much better than the standard 3/4" top (free) pallets we once used.


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## 8350HiTech (Jul 26, 2013)

Snow Farmer said:


> Ifc, why are you using mesh? Is it to keep rodents from burrowing up into the hay?
> 
> We use pallets to store our hay on.
> I have a concrete floor in my hay barn (it was the previous owner's shop that had collapsed under a snow load a few months before I bought the place) We erected a pole barn around the slab.
> ...


Different issue completely. Lfc is building pallets to match his stacker.


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## Rodney R (Jun 11, 2008)

I recall we had a pretty big thread on here a few years back about the pallets. The big thing is that the ones like you mention are heavy and if left outside they WILL absorb water which WILL make the hay spoil. I store them all inside. They are all a pain, but they pay for them selves after just a few years. I had talked in depth to BobM about them (the ones you mention), and I referred to them as 2/3 wood. We used some that were 1/3 wood, and most of them were all mesh on the top - those are the lightest, but also the flimsiest. That 16ft sheet of panel will work with very little waste. You get 3 sheets for he 2/3 wood - two that are solid from one side to the other, and the 3rd one is 2 halves that can be joined in the center. If you go with 1/3 wood, you have the two haves as waste, but the all mesh use 1 full sheet, with the least waste. I used lag bolts and some fender washers to secure the panel to the 2x4's, and air nailed the boards to the 2x4's. I think the lags were like 5/16 by 1 - 1 1/2 long. Send me a PM if you wanna talk in depth about them.

Rodney


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## lfc (Jun 23, 2010)

I was afraid that splicing might be the only way to go.

Last year was dry, and my bales were averaging 11-12% moisture on the BHT-2 baler-mounted meters so I know the dusting isn't due to the hay. I didn't have a single dusty bale other than the bottom ones, and then it is only for the bottom inch or so.

I built another barn this winter for machinery but I will also use it for hay storage overflow. I was thinking about again using crushed stone for the floor, but the asphalt comment made me think about recycled asphalt. Called a local guy today and he said it should set up just fine inside the barn. $13/yard, so it is less than stone. Also called a local sawmill that specializes in pallets to see what the lumber will run.

Some day, I'll finish my 1049 repower project and then I'll have to make all of the pallets 14" longer, I guess.


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## Rodney R (Jun 11, 2008)

I just looked at the pics in my gallery - There is one picture with the pallets like I think you refer to, and what I would call 2/3 wood, but there is one that is all mesh in the background. If you look closely, you'll notice that the ends have been clipped off - So the rolling rack will not snag on the pallet.

Rodney


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## Rodney R (Jun 11, 2008)

I was posting while you were posting - splicing only has to be done if the pallets are either full mesh, or if you go with the 2/3 wood, and want to use all the mesh. If the wood is fresh sawn, it will make the bales moldy the first year, as there is too much water in 'green' wood.

Rodney


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## 8350HiTech (Jul 26, 2013)

Old thread with pictures. I'm glad I got to see them in person at BobM's place, though.

http://www.haytalk.com/forums/topic/18847-pallets-for-nh-1069-stacker/?fromsearch=1


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## lfc (Jun 23, 2010)

Rodney R,

I think we were both typing at the same time. I've studied the old thread with your pictures - it has been a big help. Good idea about using the 7' leftover piece to make one more. TSC has 16' x 50" cattle panels with 4" x 8" to 6" x 8" openings - are these what you used? They are the cheapest at $20/each. 4" square openings are $52 each, and might be easier to walk on (carefully).

If you don't mind, I'll send you a PM once I get the quote back on the wood and see if you think my plan is on track. Really appreciate your help.


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## covenanthay (Oct 2, 2009)

I have used pallets on my bale wagons for years. I put them on the rolling rack while it is against the back after unloading the previous load. They are two piece so I can handle them easily and I store them on flatbed wagons so i simply pull alongside and walk the pallets over to the bale wagon. One added benefit, other than no spoiled bales, is I do not have to use the push off feet at all.


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## lfc (Jun 23, 2010)

Are they two piece left-right or front-back? I'd be interested to know the specifics of how you build them.


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## Rodney R (Jun 11, 2008)

That panel from TSC looks like the critter, and it's on sale! We used a small bolt cutter to cut that stuff, cause it's a lot of cuts, and the stuff is tough. When I say small the handles were maybe 20 inches long.

Rodney


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## Rodney R (Jun 11, 2008)

On the all mesh ones I used the full piece on the bottom/front/load rack floor side, and the splice was at the opposite side. So 2/3 of it was all one piece of wire. You need a fairly substantial piece running from one side to the other to hold everything together. I used 4 lag bolts and fender washers on each 2x4, and it takes 7 2x4's for each pallet. I left the bottom 4 or 5 rows of wire loose so it would slide over the rolling rack. I would then put 1 lag holding the wire toward the rear, and then another lag holding the wire forward.

What I would do, is make 1 pallet, and make sure it's correct, and then use it as the pattern for the rest that you build. And don't build all that you will need without using a few first - make sure you have no problems with them, because some of the first ones we built we had to 'modify' and they gave me nothing but trouble. I will take a few pics - send me your email in the PM.

Rodney


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## toddhandy (Jun 20, 2014)

covenanthay said:


> I have used pallets on my bale wagons for years. I put them on the rolling rack while it is against the back after unloading the previous load. They are two piece so I can handle them easily and I store them on flatbed wagons so i simply pull alongside and walk the pallets over to the bale wagon. One added benefit, other than no spoiled bales, is I do not have to use the push off feet at all.


Is there a chance you can post pics of your 2 piece pallets? Sounds like a great idea.


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## covenanthay (Oct 2, 2009)

They are left/right-very simply made. Two 2x4's on edge on each side with 1 in boards across them which the bales lay on. I will try to get a picture and post.


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## Snow Farmer (Aug 30, 2011)

That's a good idea. Our squares go up to the loft after they're all in the barn, but having pallets on the bale wagon would all but eliminate the biggest problem we have, that is pulling away from the stack without dumping it all.

We don't make anywhere near the volume of square bales some of you guys do, but I think I'm going to build a few pallets for our bale wagon.

With our one cut per year and usually short dry weather window, any time you can save helps keep the hay in prime condition.

Thank you.


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## covenanthay (Oct 2, 2009)

Here are pictures of the pallets we use.


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## lfc (Jun 23, 2010)

Those are pretty slick! Thanks for sharing the photos. Does the lower-most slat rest against the bottom beam of the rolling rack to hold the pallet off the load rack? Those extra pieces of 1x are nailed down fully but are flexible enough to allow the pallet to slip over the rolling rack?

I like the idea of the split pallets to make it easier to load with one person.


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## covenanthay (Oct 2, 2009)

lfc said:


> Those are pretty slick! Thanks for sharing the photos. Does the lower-most slat rest against the bottom beam of the rolling rack to hold the pallet off the load rack? Those extra pieces of 1x are nailed down fully but are flexible enough to allow the pallet to slip over the rolling rack?
> 
> I like the idea of the split pallets to make it easier to load with one person.


The bottom slat is a 2x6 and does rest on the bottom beam of the rolling rack. The 2x6 is the same thickness as the beam so the slats don't have to be flexible.


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## toddhandy (Jun 20, 2014)

covenanthay said:


> The bottom slat is a 2x6 and does rest on the bottom beam of the rolling rack. The 2x6 is the same thickness as the beam so the slats don't have to be flexible.


Thanks for posting pics. What model wagon is that? Thanks again for sharing!!!!!!!!!!!!!


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## covenanthay (Oct 2, 2009)

1037


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## toddhandy (Jun 20, 2014)

I have a 1037 also, if you get a chance post dimensions? Also how long to you make your bales? I make mine 36". Thanks


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## 8350HiTech (Jul 26, 2013)

Covenant, I really like your design. Do you think that the slope at the bottom (or in front, however you look at it) has the added benefit of helping your stacks from falling forward once you've pulled away?


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## covenanthay (Oct 2, 2009)




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## covenanthay (Oct 2, 2009)

8350HiTech said:


> Covenant, I really like your design. Do you think that the slope at the bottom (or in front, however you look at it) has the added benefit of helping your stacks from falling forward once you've pulled away?


Most definitely, if I get the first stack in a row set with the proper slant.


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## Josh in WNY (Sep 7, 2010)

I'm might try your design too, Covenant. I have a 1033, so I may have to switch things a little to work with my rolling rack, but that shouldn't be too hard.

One of the ideas I had was to make the outside runners of the pallet stick down a little farther and have them slide on the outside edge of the load rack. It would (hopefully) act to center the pallet on the rack and make sure the runners went between the fixed fingers on the back of the load rack. Has anyone tried this? My only concern was if the pallet might catch on the edge and get skewed as the tiers were added.


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## 8350HiTech (Jul 26, 2013)

I was examining this a little further on this rainy morning. Covenant, what prevents yours from sliding sideways? Also, is your rolling rack beam flat on top? Our old 1049 is angled but so I'm afraid a pallet would wedge, though it certainly wouldn't be hard to weld on a few tabs to prevent that.


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## covenanthay (Oct 2, 2009)

The beam is not flat as you can seen in the attached photo showing an end view. The vertical slats are actually fairly snug on the beam and I have had not problems with them sliding,


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## 8350HiTech (Jul 26, 2013)

covenanthay said:


> The beam is not flat as you can seen in the attached photo showing an end view. The vertical slats are actually fairly snug on the beam and I have had not problems with them sliding,


Thanks. Mine isn't not flat different than yours is not flat. I can make it work though.


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## toddhandy (Jun 20, 2014)

Well took you idea covenanthay and they are great. Too wet to put then to the test but hopefully soon.


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## Josh in WNY (Sep 7, 2010)

Now that I'm done with small squares and just about to finish up with the rounds, I finally have enough time to try building some pallets for the stacker wagon (yeah, I know I'm doing it all backwards). I think I'll be able to try the style that Covenanthay and Toddhandy have since it looks like the rolling rack is pretty close to the same as their wagons.

One thing I was wondering is what type of floor you are setting those pallets down on and do you have any problem with the pallets sinking in. I'm going to setting the pallets on a gravel floor and am worried about the 2x4s on edge sinking into the dirt. I have some 4x4s that I could use in place of the 2x4s that would provide more surface area for the weight to set on.


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## slowzuki (Mar 8, 2011)

4x4's would make the pallets pretty heavy to drag around... Maybe throw some strapping or slab wood down on the ground before tipping the pallets off?


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## covenanthay (Oct 2, 2009)

We stack on packed gravel floors and the pallets do not sink in.


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## Josh in WNY (Sep 7, 2010)

OK, it took me a while, but I finally got my first pallet built for the stacker wagon... Ok so it's only a half pallet, but I'm hoping it will work. I did things a little different than Covenant, but did use the idea of setting on the crossbar of the rolling rack. I'm glad I didn't try and build a full width pallet, because this one is heavy enough as it is. Probably over-designed, but I can tweak that later. Hopefully I'll have enough time tonight to make one for the other side. Nice thing is, I made them so I can switch them onto either side so I don't have to worry about a 'left' or 'right' pallet.

No haying weather until next week, so I'll have to wait a little to see how they work.


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## Josh in WNY (Sep 7, 2010)

Tried the new pallet on some second cutting yesterday and am really mad at myself for waiting this long to use them. The pallet worked wonderfully and I didn't have any problems with it. Now I just need to make at least two or three more for the last bit of second cutting and I'll be all set for this year. I'll still need plenty more for next year, though.


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## 8350HiTech (Jul 26, 2013)

I realize it's only one load, but what did you like best and is there anything about your pallets that you might tweak when you build the next ones?


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## Josh in WNY (Sep 7, 2010)

8350HiTech said:


> I realize it's only one load, but what did you like best and is there anything about your pallets that you might tweak when you build the next ones?


The biggest like would be not having to use the push-off pads to pull out from under the stack. My wagon had bent rails on the push-off pads when I got it, so they've always been a little tough to get pushed off well. I also like that I don't have to worry about a 'left' and 'right' hand orientation with them since they're symmetric. They also seem to help stabilize the first couple of tiers on the load rack when you're starting a load in a rough or hilly/uneven field.

The biggest dislike would be the weight. I haven't checked with a scale, but the things are all I want to handle by myself. I know that part of it is how large they are. I'm trying to think of how to lighten them up, but I don't think I can remove any of the wood without sacrificing the strength or stack stability. I might see about using some different materials, but I haven't found any that are lighter.


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## 8350HiTech (Jul 26, 2013)

Thanks for the kick in the butt, Josh. I used oak runners and pine slats. Definitely not light but maybe lighter than yours.


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## Josh in WNY (Sep 7, 2010)

8350HiTech said:


> Thanks for the kick in the butt, Josh. I used oak runners and pine slats. Definitely not light but maybe lighter than yours.


Yours might be lighter as I have another layer of cross boards between the runners and the slats. All the wood I used was untreated pine. Do you have any problems with the slats running lengthwise of the bales? I was worried about getting the bales centered enough on them that they wouldn't want to tip and make the stack unstable (probably overthinking things again) so I ran the slats the other way.

I would like to build at least two more pallets before we bale the last of our hay on Sunday, but there's an auction tomorrow so I'm not sure when I'll get the time... be nice if haying made me enough money that I didn't need the full time job.


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