# JD 467 Low Voltage message



## 32-0-0 (May 30, 2017)

Almost finished this weeks hay patch when the low voltage message started popping up when the Baler is net wrapping the bale. Monitor is plugged into convienance plug, tested plug through monitor by going to channel 15...monitor indicated over 14 volts. There are times when the Baler starts to wrap, but then low voltage message pops up and netting is not cut. Any ideas on what's going on?


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## Vol (Jul 5, 2009)

Try at least a more direct wire than the convenience and see if that will make any difference.....or just run a temporary to the battery and see if the direct connect will solve the issue. If so, then you might want to make it permanent.

Regards, Mike


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## ozarkian (Dec 11, 2010)

I have a JD 467 baler that I have seen that happen on both of my tractors. The "Convenience Plug", is not convenient. I have both of my baler monitor wiring harnesses direct wired with an inline fuse to the battery. I have never had a low voltage error since. I believe the problem is the monitor is picking up electrical noise in the OEM wiring harness. Wiring direct will eliminate a bunch of variables.


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## Gearclash (Nov 25, 2010)

Common theme that netwrap balers of any color don't like running off the convenience plug. The wiring to the plug is not heavy enough to support the amperage draw at peak loads resulting in excessive voltage drop.


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## 32-0-0 (May 30, 2017)

ozarkian said:


> I have a JD 467 baler that I have seen that happen on both of my tractors. The "Convenience Plug", is not convenient. I have both of my baler monitor wiring harnesses direct wired with an inline fuse to the battery. I have never had a low voltage error since. I believe the problem is the monitor is picking up electrical noise in the OEM wiring harness. Wiring direct will eliminate a bunch of variables.


So I have a general idea in my head on how to direct wire to the battery, but could you give me a little more detail on how you did it..did you just attach a male 3 blade plug to the cable coming from the battery?


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## Northeast PA hay and beef (Jan 29, 2017)

Yes I've always been told to direct wire round bale monitors to the battery.


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## Hayman1 (Jul 6, 2013)

Run a dedicated #10 wire from the battery (fused) to the monitor. Problem solved . Experience with 3tractors.


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## ozarkian (Dec 11, 2010)

32-0-0 said:


> So I have a general idea in my head on how to direct wire to the battery, but could you give me a little more detail on how you did it..did you just attach a male 3 blade plug to the cable coming from the battery?


I will look it it today and get back to you later this morning.


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## Tx Jim (Jun 30, 2014)

Ditto on dedicated plug attached directly to battery. I utilized a circuit breaker in lieu of an inline fuse on my JD 4255.


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## ozarkian (Dec 11, 2010)

I will look it it today and get back to you later this morning.

The convenience has 3 pins. Red wire is 12v, black wire is ground. I soldered a 2 conductor wire to the red and black wires going to the convenience plug and installed a inline fuse in the red wire and installed medium alligator clips on the other end of the 2 conductor wire to clip to the battery posts. attached photos are the electrical drawings in the owners manual.





  








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I cannot seem to get the orientation of the bottom 2 photos correct.


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## mike10 (May 29, 2011)

It may work the way you have it, but I see two things which may cause you issue. The wire is not a heavy enough gauge, need 10 gauge wire. The alligator clips are not a good connection for reliable operation. It could probably use a 30A fuse also.


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## 32-0-0 (May 30, 2017)

ozarkian said:


> I will look it it today and get back to you later this morning.
> 
> The convenience has 3 pins. Red wire is 12v, black wire is ground. I soldered a 2 conductor wire to the red and black wires going to the convenience plug and installed a inline fuse in the red wire and installed medium alligator clips on the other end of the 2 conductor wire to clip to the battery posts. attached photos are the electrical drawings in the owners manual.
> 
> I cannot seem to get the orientation of the bottom 2 photos correct.


Thanks for your time, photos and diagram...that's pretty much the same idea that I had...thanks for confirming that what I was thinking actually does work.


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## ozarkian (Dec 11, 2010)

mike10 said:


> It may work the way you have it, but I see two things which may cause you issue. The wire is not a heavy enough gauge, need 10 gauge wire. The alligator clips are not a good connection for reliable operation. It could probably use a 30A fuse also.


Agreed, I did it this way as a temporary fix. It has been this way for 7 years, not a single problem yet.


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## ozarkian (Dec 11, 2010)

ozarkian said:


> Agreed, I did it this way as a temporary fix. It has been this way for 7 years, not a single problem yet.


I have it fused with a 5 amp fuse. The electronics will likely be destroyed before a 30 amp fuse popped.


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## 32-0-0 (May 30, 2017)

Was in the John Deere shop today, talked to them about the problem I was having and my thought of wiring the monitor directly to the battery. They told me that the convienance plug on my tractor is already wired directly to the battery...tractor is a JD 6415 2002 model.


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## ozarkian (Dec 11, 2010)

32-0-0 said:


> Was in the John Deere shop today, talked to them about the problem I was having and my thought of wiring the monitor directly to the battery. They told me that the convienance plug on my tractor is already wired directly to the battery...tractor is a JD 6415 2002 model.


I was told the John Deere dealerships have a cable harness for the convenience plug that they are to give with a new baler. If you look at the diagram I posted earlier, the convenience plug is bundled with the monitor cable. By separating it from the bundle, you will reduce the possibility of cross-talk and or electrical interference.


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## Tx Jim (Jun 30, 2014)

32-0-0 said:


> Was in the John Deere shop today, talked to them about the problem I was having and my thought of wiring the monitor directly to the battery. They told me that the convienance plug on my tractor is already wired directly to the battery...tractor is a JD 6415 2002 model.


It's really fairly simple. You can continue powering your monitor from your '02 tractors convenience outlet as your dealer repair shop suggested & CONTINUE to have problems or do as I & many others have done & install a direct electrical power source(AFH210360)!


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## Tx Jim (Jun 30, 2014)

ozarkian said:


> I have it fused with a 5 amp fuse. The electronics will likely be destroyed before a 30 amp fuse popped.


Circuit breaker(AR28403) in photo in my post is a 20 amp circuit breaker so I suppose JD engineers don't agree with your utilizing a 5 amp fuse for protecting a JD rd baler monitor.


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## BWfarms (Aug 3, 2015)

I hard wired two tractors with the harness directly to the battery for my NH. I don't think the fuse is more than 20 amps, will have to check.

On the side note of the convenience plug, I believe they are best suited for gps monitors and implements that don't draw power to run an actuator for the length of time like an electric tie baler.


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## 32-0-0 (May 30, 2017)

Here's some more background - I'll explain as well as I can...Thursday started baling, didn't have any low voltage issues until about 2 hours after start time...then started to receive low voltage message....every time I would receive that message, the net wrap was actually being fed but never cut....I would dump the bale with the wrap still being attached to the roll, basically had a netting tail coming out the rear end of the Baler-one end wrapped around the bale and the other still attached to the roll in the Baler.

I would cut the the tail off, clear the nettiing from the belts and then try to rethread the net through the rubber roller. But another problem occurred when I couldn't engage the brake lever because the actuator piston was not retracted. I would push the retract button on the monitor but all I got was a beep...the piston would not retract.

However, after about 15 minutes, I pushed the wrap button, received no low voltage message and the actuator piston retracted. Was then able to rethread netting into rollers.

I would then bale for about 15 minutes with no problems, wrapped several bales before low voltage message returned. Same scenario repeated...Bale was wrapped but netting was not cut and actuator piston was extended.

The mechanic I spoke with at JD said it is possible that the actuator for the net wrap is heating up until it takes too much voltage to work properly which basically means that the actuator is going out. Then when the actuator cools down, it starts to function again until it becomes too hot again This does make some sense...the wrapper was working fine when I began baling that day... and it would fine again for a while after itime to cool down after a low voltage message was received.

As you'll can tell, I'm not as experienced with balers as many of you are, I'm still climbing the learning curve. But what the mechanic told me does make some sense...even to a novice like me


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## swmnhay (Jun 13, 2008)

It's been disscussed on Haytalk at least a dozen times if not 2 dozen.Hard wire monitor to the tractor battery.Don't use alligator clips either.

Don't use a convenience plug either.

From my operators manual:"Connect power leads only to 12V tractor battery terminals.Useing convenience outlets may cause erratic netwrap/twine operation due to voltage drop."


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## BWfarms (Aug 3, 2015)

Ugh having trouble typing in here.

The mechanic is partially correct about the actuator heating up but it's not because of too many volts. Unusually low voltage can raise the operational temperature of a motor. This fact seems counterintuitive, but it is true. If the applied volts are 10 percent lower than the motor's required voltage, the motor will overheat and lead to a premature failure.

An actuator motor requires a set voltage and current threshold to run properly. If either one of these ingredients is out of line, the motor will lean heavily on the other to compensate. When a motor is set for 15 volts but only able to draw 13 volts, it compensates by drawing more amps. The increasing amp draw raises the copper winding temperature which is the cause of your motor acting like an Easy Bake Oven. Copper is a great conductor but it is not a durable metal where excessive heat is a concern.

This might be why NH tells you to direct wire to battery. JD doesn't want to admit it and wants to sell actuators


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## 32-0-0 (May 30, 2017)

BWfarms said:


> Ugh having trouble typing in here.
> 
> The mechanic is partially correct about the actuator heating up but it's not because of too many volts. Unusually low voltage can raise the operational temperature of a motor. This fact seems counterintuitive, but it is true. If the applied volts are 10 percent lower than the motor's required voltage, the motor will overheat and lead to a premature failure.
> 
> ...


BH - great explanation...how electricity works is not something I have great knowledge of...I will wire directly and then see what happens.

The power of asking questions absent the fear of ridicule is clearly shown in this forum. Thanks everybody for the input provided.


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## ozarkian (Dec 11, 2010)

Tx Jim said:


> Circuit breaker(AR28403) in photo in my post is a 20 amp circuit breaker so I suppose JD engineers don't agree with your utilizing a 5 amp fuse for protecting a JD rd baler monitor.


I spent many years trouble shooting and repairing electronic circuitry. I rather replace a blown fuse than a damaged circuit board.


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## somedevildawg (Jun 20, 2011)

I agree that the actuator probably is going to need replacing.....something is robbing amperage, it could be wire, if it had been changed.....it could be a connection.....or it could be a motor failing 
I'm bettin it's a actuator going bad, they don't last forever....sounds the most plausible


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## BWfarms (Aug 3, 2015)

I should add on to the explanation of volts and amps. Think of it like plumbing. Volts is the pressure, Amps is the flow rate, and to add to the curve; Ohms is the resistance as in size of the pipe. It's all a balancing act to flush a toilet properly.

You more than likely will have to replace the actuator at some point as some have said because it has been stressed. However not correcting the power supply, you will suffer repeat replacements or interruptions when trying to bale. Even a stressed actuator will work if it functions within the design realms.

Your monitor saying 'low voltage' is really telling you the problem. The hard part is isolating the what's causing the actual issue. First step to troubleshooting has always been direct wire. Second (this can be debated as the first thing) is check tractor's alternator and batteries. Could be losing volts and battery regains in between draws so it's not noticed. Third is check relays and wire wear that's causing intermittent grounding.


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## Tx Jim (Jun 30, 2014)

32-0-0

Have you been faithfully greasing the grease fittings on each side of the netwrap mechanism accessible after net door has been raised?


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## mike10 (May 29, 2011)

The sole purpose of he fuse in the power cord is to protect the power cord. . Granted the fuse must be of sufficient size to power the end use. It does not protect the electronics of what is using the power.. That job is usually done by internal circuitry and software, fuse, or circuit breaker. NH has always used 30A breakers for their bale command power cords. The roll belt balers are using a 40A fuse.

All companies go directly to the battery one way or the other, for the convenience plug. What matters is the wire size and how many other sources are drawing power from the circuit.


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## somedevildawg (Jun 20, 2011)

To clarify mikes response.....the fuse should be put at the battery, it's purpose is to protect the power wire against short circuits. If the fuse is placed anywhere other than the battery, a fire potential exists.....I've seen many a fuse for auxiliary circuits (ran to the battery) not hooked up at the battery, some just about smoked the tractor......be it a circuit breaker or a fuse, a device is needed at the potential voltage source. Circuit boards are generally protected internally with fuses mounted on the circuit board or chassis mounted (so as to have access) sometime pico fuses (look like a resistor) are employed if the fuses protect sensitive electronics as these are a bit more vulnerable. They are very quick acting fuses....
The reason for the clarification is that some folk may think we want to protect the wire against damage....not so, we want to protect the tractor....the wire is easily replaceable.


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## mike10 (May 29, 2011)

You are correct and thanks for clarifying my post. Sometimes when I write what I am thinking it comes out clear as mud.


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## Goat Hay (Jan 2, 2016)

Tx Jim said:


> It's really fairly simple. You can continue powering your monitor from your '02 tractors convenience outlet as your dealer repair shop suggested & CONTINUE to have problems or do as I & many others have done & install a direct electrical power source(AFH210360)!


I used this kit on my 4240 and my 458 has had no issues.


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## somedevildawg (Jun 20, 2011)

Goat Hay said:


> I used this kit on my 4240 and my 458 has had no issues.


I don't think you will have a problem until the actuator gets more cycles on it.....as the "system" needs additional amperage, (from a actuator operating outside it designed range) it's available if you run directly to the battery....the convenience plug will provide for lighter amp loads, if your fuse ever blows in the dash you may want to run a cable directly to the battery (don't forget to protect it). In an optimum world with perfectly operating electronics and good heavy wiring from the factory for the convenience plug, you shouldn't have to run to the battery, nor were they designed to run to the battery, hence the convenience plug factory installed on the power harness. Beside that, you have green on green....that's never an issue  (sorry, i just can't help it  )


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## Tx Jim (Jun 30, 2014)

BWfarms said:


> This might be why NH tells you to direct wire to battery. JD doesn't want to admit it and wants to sell actuators


JD parts offers a wiring harness with plug for direct connection of monitor to battery.


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## 32-0-0 (May 30, 2017)

Installed a direct line convienance plug a couple of weeks ago, finally was able to test it out today. Baled a few hours today with no low voltage alarms. Thanks for the cure to my problem.


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## somedevildawg (Jun 20, 2011)

32-0-0 said:


> Installed a direct line convienance plug a couple of weeks ago, finally was able to test it out today. Baled a few hours today with no low voltage alarms. Thanks for the cure to my problem.


That's awesome 32....thanks for the update


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## Tx Jim (Jun 30, 2014)

Thanks for update. Direct line convenience plug bypassing tractor wiring has solved tying/wrapping problems on several different brand rd balers.


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