# Vermeer 504L baler tail gate not closing - NEED HELP ASAP!



## jsanders (May 26, 2016)

Ok bought a 504L baler a month ago, had the dealership I bought it at put new Hydraulic lines that run from tractor to the hydraulic block. Well they didnt tighten one down so the other day were gettin her ready and opened the tail gate and was about 3/4 of the way back down and the hose that wasnt tightened down pops off. Luckily it didnt strip the threads, we cleaned it up and put back together but ever since then the tail gate will raise but wont go down. We have bled it we have checked for trash in line going to tractor, adjusted the valve on the block, nothing is working. Can someone help us out please, any thoughts or advice is welcome. Thanks


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## rajela (Feb 15, 2014)

I am sure you replaced the lost fluid from the hose blowing off. Can you loosen a line at the gate and let the gate back down? might try that and work the gate up and down a few times? Not familiar with the Vermeer product but assuming it is just a hyd cylinder that opens the gate.


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## jsanders (May 26, 2016)

yes we have replaced hydraulic fluid, it is 2 hyd. cylinders that raises and lowers the gate, and it raises fine but wont go down, we have bled off the lines several times to let the gate go down, but still will not go down using the hydraulic controls from the tractor.


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## rajela (Feb 15, 2014)

Not sure what the problem is but have you swapped the lines at the tractor and see if it will go down and not up.


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## r82230 (Mar 1, 2016)

This might sound stupid, but have you tried another tractor? It is possible tractor hyd. are messed up.

Larry


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## jsanders (May 26, 2016)

Have tried different tractor, have switched the lines, pretty sure it's not tractor because it was working up and down until that line popped off.


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## rajela (Feb 15, 2014)

You switched the hoses and it would still go up but not down? If you crack the lines on the cylinder side of the valve block will it go down? right where the return line enter the block coming from the cylinders.


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## rajela (Feb 15, 2014)

I would start cracking lines from the cylinders back to the tractor and find out where the flow is stopping at.


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## rajela (Feb 15, 2014)

Do you have the owners manual. There might be some type of equalizing valve in the block that might need to be reset.


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## rajela (Feb 15, 2014)

Have you got another quick couple end that you can swap out for the one that is on the hose that blow apart? I am assuming the blown line was the return line.


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## Wethay (Jul 17, 2015)

Is there a valve to hold the gate up so it doesn't get let down on a person working there?


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## Tim/South (Dec 12, 2011)

Do you have a float position on the hydraulic control? Wondering if the weight of the gate will close or bleed air out of the cylinders in float position?

Also try various RPM's.


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## Gearclash (Nov 25, 2010)

I wonder if there is a load check valve on the tractor messed up by the hose failure.


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## rajela (Feb 15, 2014)

I wonder if he ever got this issue resolved.....kinda annoying to not know if he ever go it fixed or not....


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## Tim/South (Dec 12, 2011)

They are probably still getting it figured out.

Hopefully he will share the eventual cure. It is always nice to know for future reference.


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## rajela (Feb 15, 2014)

I am betting some one accidentally tripped the gate safety lever while it was up and did not realize it. I never thought about that until Wethay mentioned it. I have had make a lot of extra trips to release the safety lever on my Deere.


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## r82230 (Mar 1, 2016)

rajela said:


> I am betting some one accidentally tripped the gate safety lever while it was up and did not realize it. I never thought about that until Wethay mentioned it. I have had make a lot of extra trips to release the safety lever on my Deere.


I'll agree, some dummy has done that around my place also. Nothing like getting extra exercise climbing in and out of tractor, then kicking yourself in the a$$. Dang, if my wife had married someone a little sharper (gotta blame someone else, don't ya). 

And as Tim/south says, hopefully, the solution will be shared for all of our increased knowledge, possibly saving others the pain, with hay waiting to be baled.


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## E220 (Feb 10, 2016)

First, triple check the tailgate lock. But if the tailgate opens, it is likely not the problem.

Remove the few bolts that hold the cover over the valve block.

There is a restrictor valve in the circuit to keep the tail gate from slamming. I think it is labeled RV2 and is on the opposite side of the block from the belt tension adjustment. Put the tractor in float and use an allen wrench to open this valve. after the tailgate is down, remove the valve and check for dirt etc.

Evan

[email protected]


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## jsanders (May 26, 2016)

Thanks guys, have actually already done most of the things that yall have put on here, even adjusted and checked the RV2 valve, still not going down. It is not locked, have tried different tractor, have flipped hoses, may try changing connectors next. Keep coming with any more ideas, thanks for the help.


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## Coalburner (Jan 8, 2016)

I had the male hydraulic tip go bad once and it done the same thing? They aren't very expensive to replace and that might be a issue. If that isn't the problem I might would try the splitter valve assembly, mine on a 505 super I is on the right side of the baler tongue. I also have seen the inside of a hydraulic hose collapse and stop flow also. Hope this helps


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## pettibone (Jul 18, 2015)

I had the same problem after replacing one of the hoses on my baler, would open but would not close. After hours of trying to figure it out the new hose I had made at local auto parts store was over crimped and would not let any oil through the line


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## jsanders (May 26, 2016)

Keep em coming guys, I've gotten it to come down using the hydraulics but still not right going real slow not even shutting the gate all the way every time. I've already replaced ends on hoses and checked hoses for flow and they were fine. Pretty sure it has something to do with one of the valves on the block but don't know how to tell if they are bad or not, everything seems functional on them but not sure.


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## r82230 (Mar 1, 2016)

Jack up pin, unhook hoses, add $25-35K, go to nearest dealer, problem fixed!!! :lol:

Sorry, just came in from raking hay, must be a heatstroke or something.

Larry


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