# Big Baler problem Hesston 4750



## Rhinoman (Dec 7, 2014)

Hey guys was baling today and the hydraulics on the baler wasn't working just right. I had the control monitor set on closed center the load set on 150 and the pressure set on auto. My tractor is a JD 4455 mfw so it is a closed center. I had to bumb the remote after every bale was made to maintain the load. New to making big bales so learning as I go. Very pleased with the bales, other then that worked flawless. Thank you in a advance.


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## PackMan2170 (Oct 6, 2014)

Was it constantly dropping off the plunger load or bouncing around or what? Need more specifics


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## Maxzillian (Sep 11, 2014)

What do you mean by bump the remote? As in you had to pull it back to neutral and then re-engage or is the remote normally left in neutral while making a bale?


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## Rhinoman (Dec 7, 2014)

It was staying around the same with 5 to 10 on load up until the bale was made then it starts dropping off. The remote is in neutral position from understanding with closed center Hyd it has to be this way?


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## Maxzillian (Sep 11, 2014)

Well the good news is the solution will be easy! ...Not sure what any bad news would be.

The remote shouldn't be left in neutral. The baler needs a constant source of hydraulic power to operate the density system as it is constantly monitoring the baler load and firing the increase and decrease valves on the baler as necessary to adjust the chamber.

Whether the system is open center or closed center, the remote should always be engaged at all times. The only purpose of configuring the baler as OC or CC is to match it with the tractor hydraulics so they don't overheat.

So say if you had an OC tractor and the baler was CC, the pump is always displacing oil so it'd be moving full flow oil over relief whenever the baler is not demanding anything (which is the majority of the time). This would cause the hydraulics to overheat.

Meanwhile a CC system like what your tractor has will typically use a variable displacement pump that can maintain high pressure constantly, but at down to 0 flow; resulting in less oil heating. However, if you matched an OC baler with a CC tractor, the baler may let all the hydraulic flow just dump back to tank when the baler is doing nothing, rendering other remotes on the tractor useless.


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## Teslan (Aug 20, 2011)

I guess these are the reasons MF went to onboard hydraulics. I find this thread interesting as I haven't had to deal with this and it hasn't occurred to me how it would work without onboard hydraulics.


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## Maxzillian (Sep 11, 2014)

Teslan said:


> I guess these are the reasons MF went to onboard hydraulics. I find this thread interesting as I haven't had to deal with this and it hasn't occurred to me how it would work without onboard hydraulics.


Rumor has it you can thank Ford tractors for onboard hydraulics. If I recall correctly, Ford's closed-center load-sensing system caused all sorts of headaches for Hesston and they made the switch to onboard hydraulics with the next generation balers. It certainly simplified getting a baler set up for a tractor and seems to be pretty well standard in the industry today.

Edit: Added more insight:

There are also the simple things like operator's forgetting to engage the remote, running it backwards or reversing the hoses. On a baler like this 4750, reversing the hoses would cause pressure to feed to the return side of the system, go through the check valve and pressurize the density cylinders leading to a blown shear bolt.

You were also at the mercy of how much pressure the tractor could generate which depending on brand, model and condition could be anywhere from 1800 to 2400 psi. The on-board system runs up to 2700-2800 on today's balers.


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## PackMan2170 (Oct 6, 2014)

Sounds like Max has got you taken care of. Couldn't have said it better myself. When you mentioned "bumping the remote" I was under the impression you were upping the pressure with the manual pressure control remote. It all makes sense now.

Yes, she needs constant hydraulic flow, so put the ol' bungee cord on the remote handle. And don't hook your hoses up backwards, because (speaking from experience) it will make your baler do some awfully strange stuff, as aforementioned.

Let us know if that fixes your wagon. It should.


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## Rhinoman (Dec 7, 2014)

Thanks guys for the learning the dam manual didn't explain that very well. Also how do I make sure the remote is not hooked up backwards.


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## Maxzillian (Sep 11, 2014)

Put it in manual mode and see if it increase and decreases. If the remote is backwards the hydraulic pressure will just climb up to max right away (the second you enable the remote) and stay there. As long as you're not baling it should do no harm. Once you figure it out, it's best to label the hoses some how. IE a red zip tie for pressure and blue for return.


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## lidaacres (Oct 11, 2014)

This is maybe not something that applies to you, but I had a Ford tractor on a case (Hesston) baler and needed to buy a solenoid as well as adjust the monitor to adapt to cc. If you keep having trouble after you fix your leaver problem look into that.


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## Bazooka (Sep 17, 2013)

Rhinoman said:


> Thanks guys for the learning the dam manual didn't explain that very well. Also how do I make sure the remote is not hooked up backwards.


Probably too late on this thread, but my experiences with a John Deere tractor and a Hesston baler is if you want to tie the remote back, which is what most do, then the hoses from the baler to the tractor need to be crossed, which if I remember correctly is opposite of the arrows on the baler. If they are not correct, you should get an Overpressure warning fairly quickly and a quick fix is to just change the remote position to the other direction without going into float. (float stop in place). That is why most want to pull it back, besides the rubber bungee being out of the way of other things.


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## Rhinoman (Dec 7, 2014)

Thanks


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## PackMan2170 (Oct 6, 2014)

Well, how does she work?


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## Rhinoman (Dec 7, 2014)

I don't have any hay ready yet in about 2 weeks I will be putting it to the test. I will let you guys know if it works. Thanks again everybody


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