# Ryegrass cover crop



## swmnhay (Jun 13, 2008)

Anyone else use annual or Italian Ryegrass for a cover crop seeding alfalfa? I have been doing it for about 6 yrs now with good results.Get 2 cuttings off it the seeding yr.2.5-3.5 ton acre.Usually cut July 15 & Sept 1.12-18% pr.I seed 10# acre.One customer I have cuts it early and chops for dairy haylage.


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## prairie (Jun 20, 2008)

I and several customers have used Italian ryegrass with good success.
10#/acre ryegrass has been to competative in most cases, I don't recommend any more than 5-6#/acre.
Have stayed away from annual ryegrass as it tends to be more competative than Italian, and generally wants to head to early. 
Be careful in variety selection , as some varieties sold as Italians may have excessive heading the seeding year. True Italians will have little if any heading the establishment year. I have tried and sold several varieties, but have settled on Green Spirit as the most reliable and consistent performer. Zorro is one I have had poor luck with, very excessive 1st year heading and poor winterhardiness.
It seems that my customers from MN, WI, IA, and eastern portions of ND, NE & SD tend to like ryegrass as a nurse crop better than states farther west and south. Although when irrigated and on good soil, it has worked well in WY, CO, and western KS & NE. Probably due to the cooler nights at elevations above 4,000 feet.
Does your Italian ryegrass overwinter? Some like the second year production potential, while others want it to winterkill.


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## swmnhay (Jun 13, 2008)

I use Lonestar annual ryegrass.Tried Itallian but didn't get near the tonnage.I agree it can be a little hard on the new seeding but havnt had to much trouble,had a couple spots of super rich ground were it lodged bad after heavy rain and it smothered the new seeding.I've tried 5lbs but than have more broadleaf weeds poking thru,at 10lb rate it holds the weeds back.Had a couple acres at 20lbs last yr and the alfalfa seemed ok,we'll see this spring.I do have regrowth the 2nd yr which is fine with me,Its mostly in 1st cutting.


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## BCFENCE (Jul 26, 2008)

SWM i dont mean to rob your post but what about seeding feed oats with your spring alfalfa, Not enough tons or just doesnt do good in your area, i dont know just wondering.
THOMAS


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## swmnhay (Jun 13, 2008)

BCFENCE said:


> SWM i dont mean to rob your post but what about seeding feed oats with your spring alfalfa, Not enough tons or just doesnt do good in your area, i dont know just wondering.
> THOMAS


With the ryegrass I get 2 cuttings of med quality hay the seeding yr.It is finer than oat hay,higher protien and more tonage.A little farther south and you should get 3 cuttings if it gets rain.


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## Hayboy1 (Jul 19, 2008)

This is a good topic, I normally have no market with the exception of straw for Oats, and was wondering what else I could use for a cover. I have a 10 acre piece that was seeded by a former tenant to Ryegrass, clover,alfalfa, and timothy mixture. It makes real nice hay I think, and most of the people that buy it like it alot. Any more info would be great.


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## swmnhay (Jun 13, 2008)

​Test results 2005 1st cut 16.34% pr 95.48 RFV. 2nd cut 19.08% pr 113.86 RFV. Lonestar annual ryegrass @ 10# acre with 18# alfalfa underseeded. fertilizer 60-46-60 preplant


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## TooFast4U (Aug 5, 2008)

I suppose you guys are talking about spring-seeded alfalfa & Italian RG, right? If you're seeding 5 - 10 lbs Italian, what kind of an alfalfa rate are you using in the spring. (I realize all this depends on where you're located...seasons are different for each of us.)

We've only used oats in the past (for spring-seeded alfalfa) and it gets a quick start (begins holding soil sooner), but the Italian sounds like a possibility. Is it as easy to establish & does it emerge & get started as quickly as oats?


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## swmnhay (Jun 13, 2008)

TooFast4U said:


> I suppose you guys are talking about spring-seeded alfalfa & Italian RG, right? If you're seeding 5 - 10 lbs Italian, what kind of an alfalfa rate are you using in the spring. (I realize all this depends on where you're located...seasons are different for each of us.)
> 
> We've only used oats in the past (for spring-seeded alfalfa) and it gets a quick start (begins holding soil sooner), but the Italian sounds like a possibility. Is it as easy to establish & does it emerge & get started as quickly as oats?


I use Lonestar Ryegrass.Its is a annual forage type ryegrass for a cover crop for newseeding alfalfa planted late april HERE.It is alot better feed than oats hay.Protien is higher and they like it better than oats hay.And you get 2 cuttings instead of 1 with oats hay.I would say it is slightly slower than oats to get started than it realy takes off.I plant 10# RGr and 18# alfalfa.Some people use the Italian ryegrass,its not supposed to go to seed and than freeze out first winter,I didn't get the tonnage fromit so went back to the Lonestar Annual RG,some goes to seed and comes back the next yr but that is fine for me.


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## Hayboy1 (Jul 19, 2008)

What are the cost comparisons on the RG vs Spring Oats? I am very interested in it. How would it work for a Timothy/Alfalfa mixture 5:1 Timothy to Alfalfa in weed control?


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## prairie (Jun 20, 2008)

[quote name='Hayboy1']What are the cost comparisons on the RG vs Spring Oats?...QUOTE]

The following are current price ranges
prices vary due to variety and local availability

My recommended seeding rates, based on my experience and feedback from seed customers from several states. 
Ryegrass seeding rates 5-7 lbs/acre, 10 lbs maximum
Oats seeding rate 1 bu/acre, 1.5 bu maximum

annnual ryegrass: $.70 - .95 / lb
will try to form seed heads, best to cut before heads emerge; 
when cut after heading, regrowth can vary greatly depending on variety and growing conditions; 
true annuals should not overwinter in the northern states, but may volunteer from seed the second year

Italian ryegrass: $1.00 - $1.35 / lb
true Italians will have few, if any seed heads, in the establishment year, and generally higher quality than annual types; may over winter and act like an annual the second year depending on your location, fertility and snow cover

Oats: bagged $6.00 - 8.50 / bu (32 lbs)
bulk $3.50 - 4.50 / bu (from local farmers in my area of NE Nebraska)


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## IAhaymakr (Jun 4, 2008)

How is the ryegrass for drydown? Hay and Forage grower said it is very difficult to dry down and recommended it for haylage only. What are your experiences?


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## prairie (Jun 20, 2008)

Probably best chopped, but can be made into hay.
Ryegrass leaves are soft and somewhat waxy, and tend to lay in a heavy mat in a windrow, restricting air flow. Would be best to tedd/spread the windrows.
Laying it flat with a sickle bar or disc mower works pretty well.
If using annual ryegrass, you can wait until it heads out, which will help with drying. But you will almost be guaranteed to get volunteer ryegrasss the next year, which you may or may not consider a problem.


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## prairie (Jun 20, 2008)

The following link is a University of Minnesota Extension info sheet on using Italian ryegrass as a nurse crop

http://www.extension.umn.edu/cropenews/2005/05MNCN14.htm

The following exerpt is from a Montanna State University info sheet on establishing alfalfa, the link to the complete paper is http://www.msuextension.org/ruralliving/ag_alf_estab.htm

Companion Crop vs. Clear Seeding: 
Contrary to popular belief and long-established customs, better stands and yields are generally obtained when the alfalfa is seeded WITHOUT a companion or nurse crop. Probably the most significant reason for use of a companion crop is to help establish the stand, i.e., reduce erosion, minimize weeds, maintain high humidity and reduce wind at seedling height. However, cereal grain grown with alfalfa competes with alfalfa seedlings for light, water, and nutrients. Research has shown that this type of competition reduces yields by 20-35 percent (Table 1). The following can minimize the competitive effects if cash flow needs require a grain crop during alfalfa establishment.

1. Seed cereal grain at a depth of 2 inches in 18-24 inch rows. 
2. Repack the seedbed. 
3. Overseed alfalfa ¼ inch deep after seeding and packing grain crop. 
4. If under irrigation, keep the alfalfa root zone moist during the growing season and irrigate immediately after the grain is harvested. 
5. Harvest the companion crop early for silage, hay or high-moisture grain, to allow the alfalfa seedlings more time to grow and build up carbohydrate reserves in the root system.

If you must plant a cover crop, oats or barley seeded at 30-40 lbs per acre ahead of seeding alfalfa should be used. Harvest the grain crop for hay or forage rather than for grain; harvest the crop when it reaches the soft dough stage. Always check nitrate levels of small grain forage before feeding to livestock. For more information about nitrate toxicity, refer to this Nitrate Toxicity of Montana Forages link or pick one up at your local MSU County Extension Office.


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## swmnhay (Jun 13, 2008)

prairie said:


> Probably best chopped, but can be made into hay.
> Ryegrass leaves are soft and somewhat waxy, and tend to lay in a heavy mat in a windrow, restricting air flow. Would be best to tedd/spread the windrows.
> Laying it flat with a sickle bar or disc mower works pretty well.
> If using annual ryegrass, you can wait until it heads out, which will help with drying. But you will almost be guaranteed to get volunteer ryegrasss the next year, which you may or may not consider a problem.


Good advise Prairie,To add to it I cut it fairly high to help air flow under hay,about 4-6".I cut with 13'4" disc mower/conditionr and put in a 10' wide swath.Rake 2 swaths together when its almost dry,and may tip it again.This makes a huge windrow and might not be a good Idea with smaller equipment.I do wait for heads to come out.More tons,better dry down.I do have voluteer ryegrass 2nd yr,no problem more tons.


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