# new holland 848 wont start bale,,,,any sugestions???



## JeffRocknr (Nov 25, 2009)

ok, so this is a new baler for me. its a 848 new holland twine tie.

the problem I am having is getting the bale to start. It wants to clog and doesn't roll the bale in the chamber. I will have to go throught this about 2-3 times before it will start one. Needless to say I was getting really irritatated last night. If I can't figure this out I will be posting in the for sale section next .lol.

If anyone has any thoughts it would be appreciated

however once it does start it will put out a nice bale..

thanks


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## bluefarmer (Oct 10, 2010)

We had the same problem,take some 1/4 inch rebar and weld length wise between the factory bars that are already there but wore down, I am talking about that big drum roller,grandpa still uses it on his farm,he bales about 500 a year still works fine.


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## Fowllife (Sep 10, 2010)

What type of starter roll do you have? These came with 2 different types of roll. I just bought one this spring also (haven't had the weather to use it yet) The guy I bought it from had 2 of them, they both had different styles of starter rolls. I have heard that one style starts better then the other.

Either way, as long as it's steel I would think that Bluefarmers suggestion shoulf work.


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## JeffRocknr (Nov 25, 2009)

I will have to try that on the roller drum. its like it just isn't getting traction. I know thats a bad choice of words. lol.

The top roller looks like it has been coated with a bed liner type of stuff.


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## enos (Dec 6, 2009)

Also don't hit hay to hard when starting , start about half pto speed, get it rolling, then wide open. Other thing with starting, make sure swath is NOT wider than pickup. If it hangs under and around sides of pickup it will not start spinning a bale.


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## hay&holsteins (Mar 24, 2013)

We have that problem occasionally too. It works best to start slow and steady, slow down PTO speed and inch along for the first couple feet until it gets started. Last year we also took a bar and link out of the main baler chain as it was loose just from wear, and this year it works like a whole new baler.


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## JeffRocknr (Nov 25, 2009)

well an update, I went thought and adjusted everything via the manuel, added a little bit more air to the bags and slowed down going into the windrow. It seemed to work alot better last night. Going to go do about 10 more acres tonight so hopefully it will work just as good.

thanks for all the recomendations.


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## Fowllife (Sep 10, 2010)

Sorry to hijack your thread, but I have a question for you guys. I'm getting ready to use my new the me 848 & hoping you can help me out a little.

The talk of slowing down the PTO speed got me thinking. Mine has the auto eject feature on it, so what PTO speed do I run to eject? It just doesn't seem like reversing direction at full PTO speed would be good on things, or doesn't it matter?


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## enos (Dec 6, 2009)

848 for newbies it is
Start bale slower, get it rolling then throttle up. Start bale in swath that is a touch narrower than pickup. This will alllow bale to start forming core alot faster, won't hang up under pickup. Pack bale to desired size then stop feeding, let it spin 30 seconds then twine it. Throttle to idle if tractor has big hydralic pumps( pounding door up and down will break hinges) bale reverse will help dump bale at idle, better at higher revs. Make sure door is latched.


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## enos (Dec 6, 2009)

848 tricks and boo boos
Chains tight. Set ajustment with 2 15/16 studs that stop tension cam above stringer arm mount. Open door, screw studs in, close door, Hand crank studs back up against stops. Airbags even pressure about 34psi. Airbag failure, replace with truck airbag. Firestone one matches up, 1/3 price. Make sure before closing door main chains are over pop out idlers. If not, bad things that cost money happens. If bar breaks youcan run without it, just not missing two together. I don"t care how good of a welder you are you can't weld them. If chains break more than 2 times in one day replace them. About $1200 and 4 hrs and 6 beer job. Done about 2000 a year with it, mostly 1100lb silage bales so it has been pretty good over years. Any more questions just ask.


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## JeffRocknr (Nov 25, 2009)

baled another 60 bales with it and Have about got it figured out. two things, the door keeps poping open, so I adjusted the bolts the the bottom latch,and that seemed to fix it. the other thing is when I eject it the door hesitates and seems to rub the bale and kinda buger it up so to speak. Have figure out the trick yet on how to smoothly open the door. but it does make a good bale!!

Going to tear the pick up apart and replace a bunch of stuff tonight that should have been done along time ago.


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## enos (Dec 6, 2009)

Pull door closed till it squeals hydralics. I idle mine up and drops bale nicely.


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## Fowllife (Sep 10, 2010)

JeffRocknr said:


> baled another 60 bales with it and Have about got it figured out. two things, the door keeps poping open.


I had the same issue once or twice with mine too. I feel better now that I'm not alone  . I also need to do a little shop work. Apparently I have an airbag with a slow leak & I have some twine arm issues. The arms extend fine, but then wont retracted all the time. I'm going to take them apart & clean them up & see how it works.

Thanks for the help Enos. After using it the auto reverser seems pretty nice. I was missing the part were it would stop spinning when you start to open the door & then start in reverse when open all the way. Looking at the pullys/belts now it all makes sense.


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