# No power when turning key



## Hayjosh

my Ford 4610 diesel won't start. When I turn the key there's nothing, no dash lights, nothing. It's like the battery was removed. I had replaced the neutral safety switch thinking that was it (sometimes I would have to shift the H/L gear lever in gear then back to neutral prior to get it to start) and it was working afterwards, but when I went to start it today there was nothing. The thing is this is only intermittent when it does this, and I might be able to go out to it tomorrow and it will fire right up. So replacing the NSS may have actually fixed nothing and was just coincidence that it started afterwards.

I also disconnected the battery terminals and cleaned those. I suspect I must have a bad ground or connection somewhere but may prove difficult to troubleshoot. Any suggestions?


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## Northeast PA hay and beef

If you can get to the ignition i would try to see if there is a loose wire. We had our jd 6300 would either be dead or start right up, if you jiggled the ignition under the dash it would get enough contact to start.


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## Vol

Make sure all ground connections are tightened down very snug. If any look corroded, take loose and clean and get them very snug.

Regards, Mike


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## HayMike

When my 4600 has this problem, it is either battery connections or solenoid connection. Tapping connection usually fixes it temporarily.


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## rjmoses

No dash lights, etc., when you turn the key tells me that the my first guess would be the ignition switch. Second guess would be a solenoid. I had a similar problem on my Gator when the switch went bad. My second guess is that the switch drives a solenoid which in turn powers everything else.

With a VOM, test the voltage into the ignition switch, then the output side. Then trace it to the solenoid and test if the solenoid is activating. Voltage should be the same at each point.

Hope this helps.

Ralph


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## Hayjosh

rjmoses said:


> No dash lights, etc., when you turn the key tells me that the my first guess would be the ignition switch. Second guess would be a solenoid. I had a similar problem on my Gator when the switch went bad. My second guess is that the switch drives a solenoid which in turn powers everything else.
> 
> With a VOM, test the voltage into the ignition switch, then the output side. Then trace it to the solenoid and test if the solenoid is activating. Voltage should be the same at each point.
> 
> Hope this helps.
> 
> Ralph


How is the voltage being tested into the switch? At the posts/terminals? And at the output side is that with the key on? The ignition switch access isn't too easy.


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## Palmettokat

Few years back had issue with a tractor doing the same thing. Turned out to be inside of the battery cable terminal were glazed over. Had to use reamer to cut the glazing out.


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## rjmoses

Hayjosh said:


> How is the voltage being tested into the switch? At the posts/terminals? And at the output side is that with the key on? The ignition switch access isn't too easy.


You're right--getting at this stuff is sometimes tricky. If you can, the best place is at the posts. But you can trace the wires, source to destination. The source wire to the switch should always be hot unless you have a battery interrupter installed and will come from a main power distribution connection.

Sometimes, you have to get a little imaginative. E.g., I have extended by VOM probes by using a paper clip and winding it around the probe point to make an extension.

Chasing intermittent electrical problems can be tough.

Ralph


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## somedevildawg

Josh, the first thing I would do when chasing this down....1) check battery connections and voltage, make sure to verify the ground by grounding to the frame and checking the 12v + terminal.
2) check voltage to the switch (that's hard to get to) just a standard12v test light will do the trick.
3) check to see if you have voltage at the starter solenoid during "crank"

I'm bettin it's before the switch, or is the switch.....no lights tells me you have a voltage problem, not a starter or solenoid problem.


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## rjmoses

somedevildawg said:


> I'm bettin it's before the switch, or is the switch.....no lights tells me you have a voltage problem, not a starter or solenoid problem.


OOOOPS!!!! I said solenoid when I meant relay. Please backspace and delete.

Ralph


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## Hayjosh

Here's what I've got...

I just dropped the ignition switch out and there was plenty of slack in the wires that it's just dangling beneath the dash giving me full easy access.

I cleaned the battery posts and cable ends with a post cleaner and then sprayed an anti-corrosive on them. I checked the ground connection at the frame (tight and clean) and the positive connection at the starter (also tight and clean).

I verified battery voltage--12.4 volts at both terminals as well as grounding to the frame.

I verified 12.4 volts at the starter solenoid.

There's a power wire coming off the solenoid that goes to the switch, with a connector in between. I verified voltage at the connector, and using a test light, I verified voltage in wire immediately after the connector (to rule out a bad connection).

BUT--there was not voltage at the ignition switch. I unplugged the ignition wire and tested the spade connector on the wire and no voltage there either. So that means somewhere between the connector plug and the end of the wire it's dead, which doesn't make sense because the entire wiring loom is wrapped in electrical tape and is then inside a loom protector (so I can't inspect it unless I unwrap all the wires).

I took a jumper wire and put a spade connector on it and ran it from the hot terminal on the ignition switch to the positive terminal on the starter solenoid. Doing this I get full voltage and the dash lights will come on. However still no cranking when I turn the key to the start position. This is determined with the ignition switch dangling.

I have two thoughts--1) would the ignition switch be grounded to the chassis and this ground is required to crank? and 2). Perhaps my connections on my jumper wire are not good enough?

I was using a 14g Romex wire as a jumper. I had soldered the connector at the ignition switch end but the solder cracked when I was trying to shimmy the switch back into place. I was using a fork connector at the other end and it was tightened down between the nut and the pos battery cable on the solenoid.

I have red ignition wire but it's only 16 or 18g and I figured that wasn't heavy enough.


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## glasswrongsize

Josh, not MUCH help, but your switch does not have to be grounded for it to work.

To rule out the solenoid, you can touch the jumper from the pos cable on the solenoid to the small terminal on the solenoid to activate it (I have been known to jump it with a screwdriver...handier). It should turn over the tractor. If it does, you have switch problem. If it does NOT turn tractor over, jump from the hot side of the solenoid to the starter side of the solenoid (both big terminals). It will take more than the little jumper wire for this (I tend to used the handles from a slip-joint pliers to jump between the two terminals as they will reach around the solenoid).

Do your dash lights get power from ACC point on solenoid? I doubt it, but...

Just spitballin

Mark


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## somedevildawg

I got lost a bit Josh.....you said you verified voltage at the solenoid and it was 12v but there was no 12v at the switch? That just doesn't compute very well......were you testing the large lugs that hook directly to the battery? Is that where you got 12v? 
Let me try to explain this better......
The ignition switch will have a wire that provides 12v at all times that's your 12v input wire.....
During the cycle of the switch, it will pass over several contacts to provide 12v to lights, pump, glow plugs, lights, etc. it will also have a contact that it comes in contact with (the last one) that is the one that goes to the starter solenoid. It's momentary only when you turn the key in the further most position it will provide 12v to the solenoid. This wire doesn't have to be very large, 16awg will probably do it, the solenoid is there to provide the large amp draw (hence the large 2awg wire) that the starter uses while spinning. What Mark is trying to tell you with his explaination of the ways to jump the solenoid is correct.....the starter should have 12v at a big lug all of the time, the other big lug goes directly to the internal coil of the starter....when that sob gets 12v (with a big wire) the starter should spin. The purpose of the solenoid is to get 12v to that wire....that is accomplished by way of the solenoid which is energized via the ignition switch 12v momentary output. 
From your description of the problem and your troubleshooting thus far, I'm going out on a limb....but I don't think you have 12v constant at the ignition switch, that could be as simple as a blown fuse or fusible link....not sure what ford was using then. But verify the starter spins by shorting those two big wires at the starter together if you can.....make sure tractor is in park before you do this as the tractor could crank if all other parameters are met. The neutral safety switch would not be operational in this config.....hth


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## Hayjosh

glasswrongsize said:


> Josh, not MUCH help, but your switch does not have to be grounded for it to work.
> 
> To rule out the solenoid, you can touch the jumper from the pos cable on the solenoid to the small terminal on the solenoid to activate it (I have been known to jump it with a screwdriver...handier). It should turn over the tractor. If it does, you have switch problem. If it does NOT turn tractor over, jump from the hot side of the solenoid to the starter side of the solenoid (both big terminals). It will take more than the little jumper wire for this (I tend to used the handles from a slip-joint pliers to jump between the two terminals as they will reach around the solenoid).
> 
> Do your dash lights get power from ACC point on solenoid? I doubt it, but...
> 
> Just spitballin
> 
> Mark


2 dumb questions but...

How do you hold the slip grip pliers so you don't get shocked?

And I've wondered this too...can I jump it until I can get this figured out? I will have another hay field to take down soon.


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## somedevildawg

Never worry much about shock hazards on 12vdc systems......it won't bite you. It could but it's not enough to even feel under normal circumstances.


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## somedevildawg

You could "jump" it, but it would be better to "fix" it and be done with it....I don't think there's much to it. Seems purty simple to me.....good luck


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## Hayjosh

somedevildawg said:


> I got lost a bit Josh.....you said you verified voltage at the solenoid and it was 12v but there was no 12v at the switch? That just doesn't compute very well......were you testing the large lugs that hook directly to the battery? Is that where you got 12v?
> Let me try to explain this better......
> The ignition switch will have a wire that provides 12v at all times that's your 12v input wire.....
> During the cycle of the switch, it will pass over several contacts to provide 12v to lights, pump, glow plugs, lights, etc. it will also have a contact that it comes in contact with (the last one) that is the one that goes to the starter solenoid. It's momentary only when you turn the key in the further most position will it provide 12v to the solenoid. This wire doesn't have to be very large, 16awg will probably do it, the solenoid is there to provide the large amp draw (hence the large 2awg wire) that the starter uses while spinning. What Larry is trying to tell you with his explaination of the ways to jump the solenoid is correct.....the starter should have 12v at a big lug all of the time, the other big lug goes directly to the internal coil of the starter....when that sob gets 12v (with a big wire) the starter should spin. The purpose of the solenoid is to get 12v to that wire....that is accomplished by way of the solenoid which is energized via the ignition switch 12v momentary output.
> From your description of the problem and your troubleshooting thus far, I'm going out on a limb....but I don't think you have 12v constant at the ignition switch, that could be as simple as a blown fuse or fusible link....not sure what ford was using then. But verify the starter spins by shorting those two big wires at the starter together if you can.....make sure tractor is in park before you do this as the tractor could crank if all other parameters are met. The neutral safety switch would not be operational in this config.....hth


Mark, what I'm saying is I don't think the voltage is even making it all the way through the ignition wire that runs from the solenoid to the switch. I did get 12V at the solenoid, testing the solenoid lug that the battery attaches to.

But the ignition wire runs from solenoid ---> 4 plug wire harness connector --> switch

I measured voltage in that ignition wire at the harness connector to confirm there wasn't a bad connector. Then, right where the wire comes out of the connector on the other side of it, I poked a test light into the wire and got voltage to confirm the voltage was making it all the way through the connector to the wire on the other side. Here's the catch--at the end of the ignition wire (the end that plugs onto the switch)--there was no voltage. I measured this by taking the ignition wire off the ignition switch and measuring voltage of the wire--there should have been 12V coming from the wire, but there is none. To me that says the wire is dead or grounded out somewhere between the plug connector and the end of the wire. But that just seems too weird to happen so spontaneously.

There are no fuses or fusible links on the ignition circuit.


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## glasswrongsize

(bear with my typing...outside cookin up batch of ribs and am in cell phone) 
I was suggesting the jumling with pliers as diagnosis of problem. You will not get shocked as you are not making yourself part of the circuit...no different then just reaching out and grabbing pos term on battery.

Is there a possibility the wires in the loom have been "fixed" before and then taped up? It doesnt make sense yet that you ran a jumper but it still wont start... Unless you are drawing power from acc pole of solenoid and solenoid is going bad.

...or you have a couple things going bad at the same time. The come and go starting issue startedtosound like solenoid withburnt contacts


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## Hayjosh

I made a video showing exactly what I did, see what you think:


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## glasswrongsize

Could not tell: is the big red wire still on a terminal on the switch or is the white wire jumped to where the red wire WAS? It needs to be jumped to where the red wire was as jumping to a different spade terminal, it would just be backfeeding to power the dash lights etc.

The blue? wire behind the solenoid (that looks like it just pushes onto a threaded post) looks like the signal wire from the key switch. You can test by removing the wire from the terminal, poking your test light into the terminal, and turning the key switch so that the tractor would turn over.

Also, when you jumped the two big lugs with the channel locks and got a BIG spark, did the engine turn over? The big-assed-sparks is correct and you should get that. (sorry, should have warned you) Also, with the sparks, the starter/engine should have turned over. Don't let the sparks scare you too bad (within reason) and hold on long enough to make sure the starter turns over. If you short across the big posts (on your specific solenoid, you could probably use a screwdriver or the cake knife from your wife's wedding set  ) and the starter does not turn over, you may have a dead short in your starter...therefore, your solenoid works, but the problem is in the starter.

If you jump from the battery side of the solenoid to the blue? wire's post, also the tractor's engine should turn over. (if the solenoid is good)

I would start by going back and jumping the two big studs on the solenoid; if that turns engine over, jump the hot side to the blue wire and see if engine turns over. That will let you know if the problem is the starter, solenoid, or wiring. Hope that make sense. If not, I can PM you my phone number and walk you through it.


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## Hayjosh

Thanks guys for hanging with me while I sort this out.

Mark, to answer your first question, I was on a different spade, but on the same terminal on the switch. There are two spades at that terminal, a really big one (that the red ignition wire goes to), and a smaller one (I used the smaller one as I only had spade connectors to fit that one). HOWEVER--when I ran voltage to the smaller spade, I verified that there was 12.4V on the large spade too. I also had continuity through the two spades, so I figured they were on the same switch terminal.

Regarding the spark, it didn't turn over (that I heard), but I only touched it for about half a second and when it made that spark I got the hell out of Dodge  But now knowing that, I can try it again.

Is the blue wire you're referring to the one with the white plastic shield around it on the solenoid?









If I can't get this figured out I'll grab your digits.


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## glasswrongsize

Hayjosh said:


> Is the blue wire you're referring to the one with the white plastic shield around it on the solenoid?
> 
> If I can't get this figured out I'll grab your digits.


I can't see the white shield in the video, but it is common on that type of solenoid to have a plastic guard/divider made of plastic about the size of a tongue depressor between the two lugs on the solenoid. I only see one small wire on the solenoid (and the two big ones). That small wire will be the one you jump 12v to in order to engage the solenoid to make it turn over. You can use the same white jumper wire to touch it to the small terminal of the solenoid. The blue wire is also the one you can put a test light on to make sure it gets voltage when you turn the key to "start"

Mark

...We're about to get the problem cornered..


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## Hayjosh

I edited my post above to include a picture, but the edits I made to the pic didn't come through for some reason. So here they are again. The red arrow is what I think you're calling the blue wire and the green arrow is the ignition wire that runs to the switch. It's on a bracket that comes off the lug with the pos battery cable.


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## glasswrongsize

ah, yes. The wire that I was calling the blue wire should get power when the key is turned to the "start" position.

You can jump the white wire to the post where the blue wire is (unhook the blue wire and test right to that post) to test the solenoid.

You can jump across both big posts to test the starter (only necessary is jumping to blue wire's post does no good. )

You can check the blue wire with a test light (while it is disconnected and easy to get to and while your white jumper is hooked back to switch) to test the switch in the start position.

Mark


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## Hayjosh

ok, that's how I understood you originally but the confirmation is good.

Something else too...the spring in the ignition switch is so stiff it makes the key twist. I got a new set of keys for it because the original key was pretty twisted up, and the new key has about a 30-45 degree twist in it. I've read the reproduction switches have really stiff springs so I'm not sure how much it will help to replace it. This might be a replacement switch as it is....I can tell somebody was dinkering with it at some point as the wires to the switch are numbered with tape.


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## somedevildawg

If it becomes a problem (switch) you could install a momentary switch below the ign switch and hook it to the blue wire......I would get another key made before it breaks off.


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## Hayjosh

Ok here's the results of my tests. I'm still kind of stumped, or maybe not.


Neutral safety switch: confirmed this was ok as I had continuity (and no continuity when shifter was in gear).
Starter: big sparky and tractor turned over when jumped the terminals
Starter solenoid: tractor actually started when I jumped the two terminals (from pos terminal to the terminal with the blue wire)
'Blue wire test': no voltage to blue wire when key is turned to start position
Hot wire to ignition switch: no voltage (which is why I had to run another wire

So the best I can come up with is the hot wire from the solenoid to the ignition switch is bad somehow (harness looks to be original). And the ignition switch is bad. That just seems very suspicious or very coincidental that they'd both have happened the same time. Either way, even if I run a new wire back to the ignition switch, there's no power to the solenoid. So that would say switch. But if I hook the original power lead up to the switch, there's no power to the switch period (not even lights).


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## somedevildawg

Hayjosh said:


> Ok here's the results of my tests. I'm still kind of stumped, or maybe not.
> 
> 
> Neutral safety switch: confirmed this was ok as I had continuity (and no continuity when shifter was in gear).
> Starter: big sparky and tractor turned over when jumped the terminals
> Starter solenoid: tractor actually started when I jumped the two terminals (from pos terminal to the terminal with the blue wire)
> 'Blue wire test': no voltage to blue wire when key is turned to start position
> Hot wire to ignition switch: no voltage (which is why I had to run another wire
> So the best I can come up with is the hot wire from the solenoid to the ignition switch is bad somehow (harness looks to be original). And the ignition switch is bad. That just seems very suspicious or very coincidental that they'd both have happened the same time. Either way, even if I run a new wire back to the ignition switch, there's no power to the solenoid. So that would say switch. But if I hook the original power lead up to the switch, there's no power to the switch period (not even lights).


Well, you obviously lost your power source to the ignition switch......and the blue wire doesn't get voltage when in the "crank" position which certainly could indicate a bad switch. Did you test right at the terminal on the switch? I would do that before replacing.....one likely scenario, the switch contact went bad and grounded the switch out which cause a fuse or link to blow. There just about has to be some type of protector in-line where the harness connects to voltage.....failure to do so would be an electrical engineering blunder. But running another wire isn't difficult and may be easier than finding the connection point, just make sure to fuse it at the connection closest to the battery.


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## Hayjosh

somedevildawg said:


> Well, you obviously lost your power source to the ignition switch......and the blue wire doesn't get voltage when in the "crank" position which certainly could indicate a bad switch. Did you test right at the terminal on the switch? I would do that before replacing.....one likely scenario, the switch contact went bad and grounded the switch out which cause a fuse or link to blow. There just about has to be some type of protector in-line where the harness connects to voltage.....failure to do so would be an electrical engineering blunder. But running another wire isn't difficult and may be easier than finding the connection point, just make sure to fuse it at the connection closest to the battery.


I did test the terminal right at the switch. Both with the new wire I ran (had voltage) and with the original power lead (no voltage).

A new switch is only $16 so it wouldn't hurt anything, and is easy enough to install. There is no in-line protection, there's literally only two fuses on the entire tractor--one on the headlight switch and an in-line 3 amp fuse on the dash wiring harness. But I could put in an in-line fuse easy enough...what size?

I guess for now if I have to drive it before the new ignition switch gets here I'll just jump the solenoid.


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## somedevildawg

In so far as a fuse, I would just get a in line fuse holder from local auto parts store, a 14-16awg wire would be preferred, that really depends on the amount of draw in amperes that it has but I think you'll be ok with that, In the same vein, I would fuse it with 20amp fuse just to offer you some protection against a short circuit (direct to ground).....did you find, during your troubleshooting, where the ignition 12v battery wire connects? Irregardless, I would probably just use my own wire if it were easier.....
Just make sure your in park when jumping that solenoid......


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## Hayjosh

somedevildawg said:


> In so far as a fuse, I would just get a in line fuse holder from local auto parts store, a 14-16awg wire would be preferred, that really depends on the amount of draw in amperes that it has but I think you'll be ok with that, In the same vein, I would fuse it with 20amp fuse just to offer you some protection against a short circuit (direct to ground).....did you find, during your troubleshooting, where the ignition 12v battery wire connects? Irregardless, I would probably just use my own wire if it were easier.....
> Just make sure your in park when jumping that solenoid......


 The ignition wire just connects to the solenoid on a little terminal that comes off the lug that the battery cable connects to. I don't have park but it does have to be in neutral, which I always check so as to not get run over.


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## somedevildawg

That's the best place for you to connect your fuse "pig tail" to as well, gets you away from corrosion issues at the battery. That in line fuse holder will take a agc (blade type fuse) and will have a loop of wire connected to both ends of the fuse holder, you just cut it in the middle of the wire (or where you need it) gives you a bit of flexibility. Do you have a good crimp tool? You're gonna need to crimp a lug terminal to one end and splice to your new wire.....that could be done with a twist cap if you have to, better with a barrel connector that's crimped.


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## Hayjosh

somedevildawg said:


> That's the best place for you to connect your fuse "pig tail" to as well, gets you away from corrosion issues at the battery. That in line fuse holder will take a agc (blade type fuse) and will have a loop of wire connected to both ends of the fuse holder, you just cut it in the middle of the wire (or where you need it) gives you a bit of flexibility. Do you have a good crimp tool? You're gonna need to crimp a lug terminal to one end and splice to your new wire.....that could be done with a twist cap if you have to, better with a barrel connector that's crimped.


 It's just one of those standard electrical multi-tool pliers with the crimper, stripper, etc but I know exactly what you're saying. I like the heat shrink crimp connectors, protects the connection, looks nicer, and I think holds the wire a little better.


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## glasswrongsize

Looks like you about have it cornered. Dawg has a good point about adding fuses; the old tractors (like my "new" stuff" were very sparing on the fused circuits.

I assume that the neutral safety switch is in series with the "blue" wire; are there any other safety switches in series too? I would check continuity between blue wire at solenoid and switch terminal. It should show as open right now as it is not working. Then I would check continuity between starter solenoid blue wire to neutral safety switch; if still open there, I would replace only that wire and/or trace wire to make sure there are not other safety switches (such as PTO). If there is continuity, I would check to find the open between neutral safety switch and key switch...again check for another safety switch between neutral safety and switch. If all show continuity, I would check "blue" wire terminal at switch with a test light to make sure switch is good.

You dang near have it cornered. I have been checking this thread every day and had not seen you respond; I was hoping you had 'er fixed and was too busy baling hay to get on Haytalk. Dang it!!!


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## Hayjosh

glasswrongsize said:


> Looks like you about have it cornered. Dawg has a good point about adding fuses; the old tractors (like my "new" stuff" were very sparing on the fused circuits.
> 
> I assume that the neutral safety switch is in series with the "blue" wire; are there any other safety switches in series too? I would check continuity between blue wire at solenoid and switch terminal. It should show as open right now as it is not working. Then I would check continuity between starter solenoid blue wire to neutral safety switch; if still open there, I would replace only that wire and/or trace wire to make sure there are not other safety switches (such as PTO). If there is continuity, I would check to find the open between neutral safety switch and key switch...again check for another safety switch between neutral safety and switch. If all show continuity, I would check "blue" wire terminal at switch with a test light to make sure switch is good.
> 
> You dang near have it cornered. I have been checking this thread every day and had not seen you respond; I was hoping you had 'er fixed and was too busy baling hay to get on Haytalk. Dang it!!!


As far as I know the only safety switch is the NSS. It's an '84 model tractor but is really pretty simple (one of the reasons I like that 80's early 90's vintage...contemporary enough but still simply before the electronics got overwhelming).

I had some company out the middle of this week so had to take a break from it, and my wife and I went to a rock concert 2 hrs away last night, so this is my first night back to it. But then I have more company coming out this weekend, and when they leave, my in-laws will be pulling in... And I was in San Francisco the entire week for work last week. I DO have hay that really needs to come in (it's probably all bloomed now) but between being gone or people being here, and the weather being spotty (and this tractor issue), it hasn't really been possible to get any hay going. My uncle will be out this weekend, he's a lineman foreman for the power company and also farms with his dad, so if I don't have it figured out before he gets here, it'll definitely be figured out by the time they leave.


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## r82230

Hayjosh said:


> As far as I know the only safety switch is the NSS.


Same as my Ford 5000 and 2000, NSS the only thing (and non-fused). Fusing is a GREAT idea, BTW.

Larry


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## Hayjosh

Well Mark can have the satisfaction of checking in to see that it's been fixed.

The verdict: bad ignition wire (but we already knew that was bad).

I tested continuity of red wire, nada. Tested continuity of blue wire--works.

So I run a new 14 g ignition wire with a fused pigtail at the end with 20 amp fuse per suggestions, as the 'permanent' solution and not a temporary jumper as I was doing before.

Turned ignition, nothing. "What the hell?" I say, figuring it was still probably the ignition switch that was bad as well (and just shipped but not arrived).

I hate to say it but it's kind of crucial for the blue wire to be connected to the solenoid in order for the tractor to start. D'OH!! How long have I been dicking around with this thing forgetting that was still disconnected? So I reconnected it, turned the key and tractor fired right up.

I think the reason it wasn't working earlier for me is poor connections with my jumper ignition wire (which I suspected) and then the blue wire was disconnected part of the time as well.

I'll still hold on to the ignition switch, it was only $20 shipped, and then I'll have it if this returns to being an intermittent issue. Maybe I'll just change it out anyways since the key turns so hard.


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## glasswrongsize

Since we're quoting Homer: WooHooo!!

Glad it's working

Mark


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