# moisture window for baling alfalfa



## wetsu (Jun 21, 2016)

I've just retired from the job that paid for the farm and I now have the time to try to do hay right. After reviewing several of the threads here, I think I understand the pros and cons of most of the steps involved in producing good alfalfa hay - leaves retained, no mold. However, I am confused as to just when to start baling. Let's say at the end of day 2 the stems are dry. We rake on the morning of day 3 as the dew comes off. On the morning of day 4, we have our hygrometer set up near a windrow and our delmhorst moisture tester is in hand.

Now, in a recent thread, two contributors said we should begin baling when the relative humidity reaches 65%. (We are making round bales.) But, based upon very limited experience, I expect the tester will show the moisture in the windrow to still be in 20's. Am I wrong OR do we expect the dry stems to balance out the moisture in the leaves? Under these circumstances, is our moisture target in the bales 18% or less?

Thanks. My wife approves of my visiting haytalk - considering the alternatives.


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## Hugh (Sep 23, 2013)

I consider measuring the moisture in the windrow a bad idea, simply because the readings will be all over the place. One area will be 40%, move the meter 6 inches and the reading will be 20%. The best idea I've run across is the alfalfa is dry enough to bail when your fingernail will not scratch off the epidermis layer on the stem. This layer is super thin, like the thinnest onion layer you can think of. This info comes from the U of California Davis, the best Ag school in the world, especially for alfalfa.

So now you know when the alfalfa is dry enough to bail, so the question is when. The best time is when the leaves are not cracking like a potato chip. So then, as soon as the stems are dry enough, bail in the highest humidity you can, just above the dew point, so that a heavy dew will not be bailed along with the alfalfa. I say if you can get 90%, more power to you. My views...


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## Vol (Jul 5, 2009)

Stems are the key here.....if you get them dry, then rake as the dew begins to leave in the morning....bale that evening as the humidity begins to allow...or bale the next day when the dew has lifted and the outside begins to dry. Some days you will be able to bale for a 2-3 hours....some days only a hour and a half. Seldom is it cookie cutter same. And most importantly, use a preservative system so that you can bale up to 25% moisture and grin....maybe a tick more if stems are match stick snapping dry.

Regards, Mike


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## swmnhay (Jun 13, 2008)

You don't need all the fancy do dads.Just develop your 6 th sence of makeing hay.Like Hugh said scratching the stem with your fingernail is a good test.Once the stems are dry you can bale with quite a bit of dew moisture to save the leaves.

Once the stems are dry and you get a dew on it the tester will read higher then it actually is I'm my experience.


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## r82230 (Mar 1, 2016)

Welcome wetsu, if you do not have a preservative system, then it even more important to learn the stem snapping Mike mentions, very well. As Hugh mentions moisture can be all over the board, here again experience will help. Is there someone local that grows / harvest alfalfa the way you desire (dry small square bales or large square bales, as an example, there is a huge difference in moisture allowed while baling), that could mentor you some?

You don't get to many lessons on baling hay with too much moisture that come out with a positive results. IMHO.

Larry


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