# John Deere 5075e Lift



## [email protected] (Mar 23, 2015)

Hey y'all,

Me and my dad just purchased a new JD 5075e with a cab. It was delivered yesterday so today I decided to hook it up to the bush hog to run it and make sure everything on it was working correctly before hay the 2nd hay cutting starts. The bush hog I put on it is a Rhino tw84 that I bought last year to run on my JD 2355. The mower really seems too big because it has CAT 3 lower lift pins with the CAT 2 ends on them and it is pretty heavy. I couldn't seem to get the lift to come up high enough. The bush hog was only up about a foot in the back (had the tail wheels up about 4 inches).

So my question is does anyone know how high the lower lift arms should raise?

I know the lower lift arm pins on the mower are at 21" and on a 6 ft. Brown mower we have they measure at 16".

Thanks in advance for any suggestions


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## Hayman1 (Jul 6, 2013)

well, for starters, what is the rear tire size on the 2355 vs the 5075e? One of the reasons I always get 34s or 38 rears is to get some ground clearance. the stinky little rear tires they put on these tractors really get me. I don't know about the e series, but the m series has the flip bolts on the lift arms that allow for fixed lift vs floppy lift (you turn the heads 90 degrees.


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## [email protected] (Mar 23, 2015)

It does have smaller tires for sure. My 2355 was a power line mowing tractor so it has extra tall run flat forestry special tires. Looks like it's been lifted. I flipped those bolts on it today to make it gave that extra movement.


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## Hayman1 (Jul 6, 2013)

in the for what it is worth department, when I use my 7' 3 pt bushhog in paddocks etc, I never use the center link and don't worry about picking it up. Even go up the road a mile or so that way. Never had an issue. seems to mow more consistently that way through dips etc. Most of mine is done with a pull behind cylinder run BH 3210. Leaves the fields like a lawn.


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## Grateful11 (Apr 5, 2009)

I found this manual on your cutter online. It says your tractor has to be able to lift 1215 lbs. It shouldn't have any trouble lifting it. Something doesn't sound right with the hydraulics. Both our Kubota's will lift a Bush Hog SQ720 tail wheel about 2 ft. off the ground. We run a Bush Hog 307 7' pull type behind the JD 5065M so not sure how it would do with a 3 point cutter.

Rhino TW84 Manual

http://support.servis-rhino.com/RhinoManuals/operator/00760962C%20TW84%20OPS%20PUB%2003-07.pdf


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## [email protected] (Mar 23, 2015)

Hayman1- I have moved bushhogs around without the center link but never cut with one. Makes sense that it would cut pretty good though! I guess it would be like a semi-mount without the top link.

Grateful11- I think you are right that something is not right with the hydraulics. It has the recess under the cab where it looks like the upper lift arms would go up into, but they are not going all the way up into the cutout. When we first testdrove the tractor the throttle linkage was only allowing it to make 2400 RPM so we had to get them to adjust it correctly, so I am guessing the lift adjustment could be out as well. Seems like it has plenty of power to lift the mower but seems like it has a stop thats keeping it from raising. Looks like I'll be calling the dealership monday morning bright and early.

Thanks for the help guys!


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## 8350HiTech (Jul 26, 2013)

Do the arms go all of the way without the mower attached? That ought to rule a few things out.


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## [email protected] (Mar 23, 2015)

8350HiTech- I checked with the mower off and it still wasnt coming all the way up.

I finally just got to looking and the lift cable was out of adjustment so I got it adjusted to where the lift was coming all the way up ( well its adjusted within an inch of the internal mechanical stop). All I can figure is the control cables on this tractor were adjusted on a Monday or Friday 

Thanks everyone for the advice on it!


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## broadriverhay (Jun 13, 2014)

I have seen people use a chain for the top link on bush hogs. I have never done this but it seem to work great.


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## Hayman1 (Jul 6, 2013)

my point on not using a center link is I don't see a need to. If you have the sway controlled to a minimum on your lift arms you really only need to lift the cutter enough to clear rocks. As far as backing up in tight spaces it cuts as well in reverse as forward. I don't lift my pull type up off the ground so really don't see the need to do so with the 3 pt. I just have an adversion to the length of time to attach semi mounted bushhogs and I hate the cut with single trailer wheels. Dual wheels are far superior imo. rick


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## luke strawwalker (Jul 31, 2014)

We used to use an early model "heavy duty" Bush-Hog brand 6 foot 3 point single rear wheel shredder to cut cotton and grain sorghum stalks... Grandpa bought it in 83 when he got the 6600 Ford it was usually hitched to. He and Dad had tried various 4 row (13 foot or so) shredders with twin or triple gearboxes, and didn't like them, because they seemed to fail so much more often-- Dad said that because of the different loads on the gearboxes, as the cutter hit clods in the field or whatever and would bounce and sometimes the blades hit the top of the row beds, etc, that the boxes would tend to "tear each other up" as power caromed back and forth through the shafts connecting the boxes-- one spinning faster under no/light load, the other slowed down hitting the ground/bed top, etc, "wringing out" the shafts and gears and stuff). Since the 6600 could run all day at 6mph through the field with a 6 foot, two row Bush-Hog, that's what they bought... course as a teenager, you can guess who ended up with THAT miserable job! LOL

Anyway, this shredder was 3 point, but unlike MODERN shredders, the thing didn't have a FLEXIBLE LINK in the top link connection... the three point frame was DIRECTLY reinforced via a pair of angle irons reaching back from just behind the top link to the rear of the shredder's main frame directly behind the gearbox, where they were bolted to a pair of angled steel brackets welded directly to the main frame rails. These would REPEATEDLY break off, crack the welds, shear the bolts, etc... We FINALLY got them welded back in SO many times that the welds quit breaking, larger bolts installed in the wallowed out holes, etc, and so the top of the three point frame started to twist around like a pretzel. Finally had to replace the frame altogether.

Years later, rebuilding this shredder, and having looked at new ones, I realized what was happening... when the tractor drove through a ditch or low spot, the rear wheel of the shredder would push up, pivoting the mower around the lower two-point links, pushing forward against the top link, which of course is immobile... this would "force" the shredder to be pushed UP by the top link pushing back HARD against the three point hitch and the immovable angle iron frames, putting enormous loads on the entire structure, since that was the ONLY way it COULD move!

Newer designs had put either a "pivoting linkage" at the top that the three point top link attaches to, so that when the tail wheel lifts the back of the shredder up, the top link simply drops as the three point frame tips forward... the link is "limp" until the mower is lifted, when it "straightens out" and takes up the slack, and lifts the mower. Some cheaper mowers use a flexible link under the three point, or even chains at the back of this "lift frame" connecting the top mast of the three point to the cutter frame, to lift the shredder when the 3 point is lifted...

When I rebuilt it, I put a pair of heavy 1 foot long chains in place of the mangled angle irons that had been rewelded/rebolted so many times and the frame rails themselves-- problem solved! It gives it just enough "give" that the top link never binds-- the angle irons merely "drop down" toward the frame a bit as the chains go slack until the tail wheel is over the ditch, and when it drops in, the chains play out their slack and hold the shredder up, just as they do when I pick up the three point to go down the road...

Later! OL JR


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## Tx Jim (Jun 30, 2014)

[email protected]

With nothing on 3 pt manually lift on draft arms,when the arms stop raising that's the 3 pt height limit. You can probably adjust control linkage to increase 3 pt lift height.


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