# jd 2555



## 20156point7

i have found a really nice 2555 john deere that has 2,400 hours. It has a cab, Hi low trans, loader, everything. It is all original and has been barn kept its whole life. But my problem is I was looking for a 2755 because I needed the extra 10 horsepower. My understanding is the 2555 and 2755 use the same exact engine and turbo, what could be done to the 2555 to squeeze 10 more horsepower out of it?


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## somedevildawg

Just saw a 2755 sell yesterday at auction......2700hrs, $19.5k. Wow....how much they bringing up there? Oh, the guy "No sold" it....wanted 21k


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## 20156point7

with a cab, loader, 4wd, and in nice shape they will go 25k-30k pretty easily up here


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## somedevildawg

Wow, that's strong.....this was all of above, only two wheel drive.....


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## Tx Jim

20156point7 said:


> My understanding is the 2555 and 2755 use the same exact engine and turbo, what could be done to the 2555 to squeeze 10 more horsepower out of it?


It appears they also share the same radiator so I think one could turn the IP up to achieve the 10 extra ponies with no real problems. IMHO 55 series are some of JD's best tractors.


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## Trotwood2955

We had a 2555 for about ten years. Great little tractor. I know they are rated at 65hp but ours felt like it had 80. An uncle has a 2750. It seems a little stouter cause it's 4wd and our 2555 was 2wd but power wise I couldn't feel any difference. So you may not have as much trouble as you think getting the power you need.


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## Hayman1

somedevildawg said:


> Just saw a 2755 sell yesterday at auction......2700hrs, $19.5k. Wow....how much they bringing up there? Oh, the guy "No sold" it....wanted 21k


With cab and in good shape, worth every penny.


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## Orchard6

We ran an open station 2555 2wd for years on a 10 ft bush hog. Had just over 9000 hrs on it when we sold it to a neighbor. Engine has never been opened up, injection pump was rebuilt around the 6k hour mark. The guy that has it now still can't believe how easy it starts on a 20 degree morning compared to his old 2510. Just turn the key and away it goes.
They are a great little utility tractor with lots of power on the pto but they do tend to like the fuel if they're ran hard.


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## 8350HiTech

On topic, I just saw this in the Lancaster Farming. It's in my neighborhood.


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## somedevildawg

Outta buy that one tech......


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## 20156point7

My problem is my 5083e won't run my 4x5 baler on hills. I know everyone says the 55 series is way underrated, has anyone seen a 2555 dyno?


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## Trotwood2955

We never had ours on a dyno. But we pulled out NH 644 baler (4x5) with it for several years and we have some hills. Power was never an issue. Only issue was weight. I wouldn't want any lighter tractor to try and stop a full baler going down a steep hill. But other than fluid in the tires ours had no added weight. And it did fine you just had to pay attention but only on really steep spots. The one your looking at with 4wd I think would be more than fine.


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## 20156point7

I have been doing some research and someone said that the turbo version of the 2555 was the same as a 2755 is this true?


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## Hayman1

I have a friend of a friend that is a farm manager for a good sized place with a cheap owner. He has a 2555 and rolls 4x5 hay I think with a JD baler. Owner won't get a bigger tractor so he usually rents one during the time he is rolling hay. Not sure what that says but he wants a little more umph. Oh, and he has no killer hills.


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## Colby

We ran a John Deere 2555 and a 535 round baler (5x6 baler) for years. It'd run hot every now and then on 105 degree days but never had a power issue.

Wish I spent the money to fix that tractor up with a new interior and new AC unit instead of getting rid of it. They're a good little using tractor for sure.


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## barnrope

Dad has one he bought new in about 88'. Pretty sure it doesn't have a turbo. I'll have to take a look. The reverser is an option I'd suggest.


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## Wethay

I have never had a 2555 on a dyno. At 150 feet above sea level in the cool of the morning 10% over rated pto hp was usual on the several 55 series tractors I tested. Always liked the 55 series.


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## 20156point7

I would really like to hear someone who has had a 2555 with a turbo on a dyno.


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## carcajou

Why not dyno the one you are interested in, it's not expensive to do and then you would feel better if you buy it. I just dyno'd a 7510 and it cost me $100.


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## 20156point7

I honestly have no idea where the nearest dyno is. I talked to the guy that is selling it and he said that he wasn't sure if that one had a turbo. It has a cab and hi lo trans so it should be the turbo version shouldn't it?


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## Trotwood2955

Yes it should.


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## carcajou

The 2555's all had turbos.


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## Tx Jim

Some 2555 engines were NA & some were turbo-charged


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## Vol

I own a 2355 2wd....I bale with it in fourth gear when I use it....but if I bale on steep hills I have to bale in third gear...otherwise it does fine. I just don't bale much with it anymore. The 2355 has about 56 HP....the 2555 has about 10 more HP. I would buy that tractor if it were here in a NY minute.

Regards, Mike


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## carcajou

Tx Jim said:


> Some 2555 engines were NA & some were turbo-charged


Oops, never seen one that was not.


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## Yellowchevelle

I grew up on a 2755, put lots of hours on it hauling hay and feeding in the winter. Great tractor, I didn't care for the hi low trans wish it would have had a powershift of some sort and ours had no turbo


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## Vol

Yep, the hi/lo can be a bit aggravating sometimes as it seems when you need that gear in between.

Regards, Mike


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## 20156point7

Yellowchevelle said:


> I grew up on a 2755, put lots of hours on it hauling hay and feeding in the winter. Great tractor, I didn't care for the hi low trans wish it would have had a powershift of some sort and ours had no turbo


I'm pretty sure all 2755s had a turbo.


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## 20156point7

Vol said:


> Yep, the hi/lo can be a bit aggravating sometimes as it seems when you need that gear in between.
> 
> Regards, Mike


How exactly does the hi lo work. Can you shift to a higher gear without clutching?


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## Trotwood2955

It will have four synchronized gears in two ranges for total of eight gears. Have to clutch to change any of those gears or ranges. But you can shift the hi low anytime with no clutching. The difference in hi and low speeds isn't huge but still noticeable. Basically turns it into a 16 speed.


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## Yellowchevelle

20156point7 said:


> I'm pretty sure all 2755s had a turbo.


I am 100% sure it had no turbo on it and we bought it new. Had a cab and Jd loader on it also


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## Tx Jim

Yellowchevelle said:


> I am 100% sure it had no turbo on it and we bought it new. Had a cab and Jd loader on it also


Only turbo exhaust no NA manifold is listed in 2755 parts catalog plus Tratordata.com shows 2755 is turbocharged.


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## IH 1586

I would not want one without the hi/lo. 8 speeds just is not enough, always want a gear in between. All of ours had the hi/lo on them. 2440, 2440 w/ loader, 2750 dynoed out at 85 hp 2wd awesome tractor, light weight with that much hp makes for a fun tractor, 2750 4wd w/loader, 2355 4wd w/loader.


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## barnrope

I don't think Dad's has a synchro tranny. It is always easier to shift it by matching rpm with the foot throttle. It does have the reverser which is very nice.


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## 20156point7

I went today to look at the tractor and man was I impressed. i looked under the hood and it has a turbo. I got the chance to drive it around for a bit and I was really impressed with how the tractor felt it was much stronger than I thought and was a lot heavier feeling than I thought. I'm probably going to end up buying this tractor.


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## MDill

Those are really well balanced tractors, something Deere should have stuck with was the low center of gravity and spread out weight on those 50 and 55 series tractors. Not tippy like the newest 5000s. Like all old Deeres they have plenty of low end grunt for how little overall hp they are, plus for an 80s tractor they have some of the best ergonomics. I just hate that corner door in the soundgard cabs.


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## 20156point7

MDill said:


> Those are really well balanced tractors, something Deere should have stuck with was the low center of gravity and spread out weight on those 50 and 55 series tractors. Not tippy like the newest 5000s. Like all old Deeres they have plenty of low end grunt for how little overall hp they are, plus for an 80s tractor they have some of the best ergonomics. I just hate that corner door in the soundgard cabs.


Makes ya wonder why they ditched the 55 series and went to the terrible 5000 series.


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## Yellowchevelle

Well I learned something, I could have sworn it didn't have a turbo on it.


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## Chuck

I have a 2555 4wd with a 245 loader on it. Purchased it brand new ,, best tractor I've ever owned .. !just over 16000 hours on it,,, never touched the motor,,, no major problems


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## 20156point7

Went ahead and purchased the 2555 I looked at the other day. It has 2800 hours and is supposed to be all original. Everything works, has a radio, extremely cold ac. I can't wait to get into the field this summer with this tractor thanks for all you guys help with making my decision.


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## Trotwood2955

Looks like a great find. Enjoy!


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## Farmineer95

Self leveling loader too. Sweet.


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## Wethay

Nice tractor, enjoy.


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## deadmoose

Chuck said:


> I have a 2555 4wd with a 245 loader on it. Purchased it brand new ,, best tractor I've ever owned .. !just over 16000 hours on it,,, never touched the motor,,, no major problems


What has it been used for?


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## 20156point7

My only complaint so far is on the road it vibrates really bad im hoping it's the tires but I don't really know.


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## somedevildawg

Wow, that is one beautiful tractor......a fine specimen indeed!
Congrats....if ya ever get a hankering to get a "new" ......I'll take if off your hands in a minute 
Don't see many like that........



deadmoose said:


> What has it been used for?


Apparently not a whole lot.....

Ok.....I can't stand it.....what did ya have to pay for that baby?


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## 20156point7

Paid 29500 for it, probably too much but I couldn't pass it up its really hard to find them in this condition and original


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## carcajou

Great looking tractor, may it bring you years of dependable service.


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## barnrope

That's a sweetheart. Good move!


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## Chuck

It did a lot of loader work ,, running a small square bale , spread fertilizer ,, ,, every thing around the farm .


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## deadmoose

Chuck said:


> It did a lot of loader work ,, running a small square bale , spread fertilizer ,, ,, every thing around the farm .


Sounds like you got a good deal on that one. Amazing what some things are capable of when taken care of.


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## 20156point7

Where exactly is the fuse box located at?


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## OhioHay

Nice looking tractor.


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## Tx Jim

20156point7 said:


> Where exactly is the fuse box located at?


Under face of RH side of dash. Face snaps off dash. Check continuity on printed circuit board(parts key 1)


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## 20156point7

The reason I ask is because the tractor won't come out of 4wd. I got under it and found there is a broken wire on the side of the solenoid on the bottom of the transmission and I can't find where the wire goes.


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## somedevildawg

20156point7 said:


> The reason I ask is because the tractor won't come out of 4wd. I got under it and found there is a broken wire on the side of the solenoid on the bottom of the transmission and I can't find where the wire goes.


Ifn I wuz you, and I'd certainly like to have the tractor  , I would get me a service manual and operators manual......always paid dividends for me anyway.


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## IH 1586

If that is a lot of loader work the previous owners took very good care of it. You don't find any loaders coming off from farms around here that look that good. Beautiful tractor, enjoy your new purchase.


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## Tim/South

20156point7 said:


> The reason I ask is because the tractor won't come out of 4wd. I got under it and found there is a broken wire on the side of the solenoid on the bottom of the transmission and I can't find where the wire goes.


My cousin has a 2355 and that wire would come unplugged from the solenoid. We never had it to break. It would pull off if we were brush cutting. We would know then it was unplugged because it would not come out of 4 WD.

Is the wire long or does it look broken? If broken you should be able to find the other end. If long, it likely pulled lose from the other end.


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## Farmineer95

Wire might run up rh side of trans case to top under cab floor. If remove cab floor might be a round plug there with other wires for transmission.


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## 20156point7

tracked down the wire under the floor and i have to get another wire tomorrow to run to the solenoid, so im hoping that will fix that. also, where is the best place to mount the bale monitor in the cab because i got to looking and I don't see anywhere to mount the bracket. I also don't see a port where I can plug in the monitor.


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## Hayman1

20156point7 said:


> tracked down the wire under the floor and i have to get another wire tomorrow to run to the solenoid, so im hoping that will fix that. also, where is the best place to mount the bale monitor in the cab because i got to looking and I don't see anywhere to mount the bracket. I also don't see a port where I can plug in the monitor.


Can't remember what baler you have but I had to run a dedicated fused #10 circuit for my JD457. The original power source which was a old style JD "cigarette lighter" type power plug which is as I recall in the front right of the cab did not deliver enough juice and it would foul the net wrap cycle. I can't remember if I mounted the monitor on the front rt corner post but that is what I remember. Built my own bracket. r


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## 20156point7

I have a 459 baler so it should be the same as your 457


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## Trotwood2955

Second what Hayman says. Fab up your own bracket or I've seen some mounted on the front lip between the console and right front cab post. You may need to get an addition for your wiring harness so you can run power for the monitor off of a battery or the starter post since it doesn't have a direct plug in the cab like newer tractors. I usually just go directly to the battery. If your wiring harness is small diameter just run it through the the corner of the lower cab window. If it's too large for that window to close there should be a plug you can remove on the right hand cab floor. Or worst case just drill a hole if no plug.


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## 20156point7

I already have a bracket for my other tractor so I'll take it and rig something up.


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## somedevildawg

20156point7 said:


> I already have a bracket for my other tractor so I'll take it and rig something up.


Easy on that riggin......make sure you put a fuse or circuit breaker directly on the power wire when you connect to the battery


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## Tx Jim

A bracket similar to one in photo was utilized to mount monitor in SGB(cab) on older tractors such as 2555


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## 20156point7

Tx Jim said:


> A bracket similar to one in photo was utilized to mount monitor in SGB(cab) on older tractors such as 2555


Could I get this from a Jd dealer?


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## Tx Jim

Yes for enough $$$$$

BE23599 Mounting Parts - COMPLETE GOODS/SHIP. BUNDLE, CONSOL <a>ADD</a> 82.50 USD


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## 20156point7

I got the wire run down to the solenoid and it still won't come out of 4wd so I don't know where to go from here. Possibly a bad solenoid?


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## Farmineer95

Clutch is spring applied, hydraulicly disengaged. Do you have power and ground at solenoid when in 2 wheel drive?


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## 20156point7

Yes I have power and a ground to my solenoid


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## Farmineer95

Does solenoid magnetize with power applied?
If so can check a couple other things:

Remove valve and ensure it isn't stuck internally.

Install lube pressure gauge and do leakage check. Think lube pressure can't change 3 or 5 psi when turning switch on or off.

Are you noticing anything different in a short turn when turning switch on and off?

Just curious how you know it isn't turning off.


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## 20156point7

I haven't checked to see if it is magnetized I will tomorrow. i can't tell a difference when I flip the switch, the only way that I noticed it was in 4wd was I saw the front driveline turning.


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## Wethay

Okay, I'm missing something here. The front drive line should turn with the front diff, and the front diff should turn with the wheels? Take it out on pavement, turn hard, engage 4wd and do it again. Should feel a difference.


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## 20156point7

I got around to checking the 4x4 today and it is working now, I didn't realize the driveshaft is supposed to turn even when in 2wd. After checking it I turned it off and came back a few minutes later and tried to start it and it wouldn't turn over. So I guess it's time for some new batteries also.


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## deskfarmer

20156point7 said:


> I would really like to hear someone who has had a 2555 with a turbo on a dyno.


I just had my 2555 in the shop... for a new turbo, which ended up costing close to $1,000. It works great now. They put it on the dyno and it measured 77hp.


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## 20156point7

i figured turbod 2555s had this much hp. It's funny Nebraska tractor test has the 2755 as 77 also. They must be very similar in power


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## 20156point7

Just a follow up post after a couple of months of running the tractor. I have spent more time working on this tractor than running. First the fwd wire was broke when I bought it. Then I had some alternator troubles. Then when baling I busted a line on the hydraulic clutch(which was a real pain in the a** to fix). Yesterday while baling I heard a bad noise coming from the front end I looked and the fan was wobbling really bad and hitting the fan shroud, which is a bad water pump. It is pouring fluid all around the pump. I really like this tractor a lot and it runs my baler great but it has some "bugs" to say the least.


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## Vol

20156point7 said:


> Just a follow up post after a couple of months of running the tractor. I have spent more time working on this tractor than running. First the fwd wire was broke when I bought it. Then I had some alternator troubles. Then when baling I busted a line on the hydraulic clutch(which was a real pain in the a** to fix). Yesterday while baling I heard a bad noise coming from the front end I looked and the fan was wobbling really bad and hitting the fan shroud, which is a bad water pump. It is pouring fluid all around the pump. I really like this tractor a lot and it runs my baler great but it has some "bugs" to say the least.


Thats the way it is sometimes with older tractors....especially cab types. I went through a similar stretch last year with one of mine.

Regards, Mike


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## somedevildawg

Years of neglect can be difficult to overcome......just takes time, and money


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## Wethay

Good luck, my hope is that not long from now you look back and have no doubt that it was a good purchase.


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## 20156point7

forgot to mention another little issue, when shifting the tractor to the second range it is really hard to get into gear and grinds pretty bad. What would cause of this? worn clutch maybe? The tractor seems to go in the first range with no problems.


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## Hawk40

That's a beauty 
Love that series and what your going though just comes with the territory when it comes to buying/running older stuff.
Same with airplane, boats, cars etc.
Previous owners tend to let little stuff pile up, especially when they don't depend on them for a livin.
I'd really like to have low hr 4055 but will probably have pony up for a 6125m after seeing how much the lower hr 55's are bringing at auctions. Nearly every older piece of equipment I've bought, I'd figure another 25% cost to bring it up to where it should be.


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## Orchard6

20156point7 said:


> forgot to mention another little issue, when shifting the tractor to the second range it is really hard to get into gear and grinds pretty bad. What would cause of this? worn clutch maybe? The tractor seems to go in the first range with no problems.


Are you trying to shift on the fly? The ranges are not synchronized like the speeds are.


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## 20156point7

Orchard6 said:


> Are you trying to shift on the fly? The ranges are not synchronized like the speeds are.


No I stop completely for a few seconds and it still grinds When I try to put it in the second range. It seems to go fine in the first range


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## Tx Jim

20156point7 said:


> forgot to mention another little issue, when shifting the tractor to the second range it is really hard to get into gear and grinds pretty bad. What would cause of this? worn clutch maybe? The tractor seems to go in the first range with no problems.


Which type trans collar-shift or TSS? Have you checked clutch free travel adjustment? Have you checked fluid level in hyd clutch reservoir in frt of dash? Have you tried bleeding clutch operating cylinders??


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## 20156point7

Tx Jim said:


> Which type trans collar-shift or TSS? Have you checked clutch free travel adjustment? Have you checked fluid level in hyd clutch reservoir in frt of dash? Have you tried bleeding clutch operating cylinders??


I have the tss trans. The fluid level is good, and I had to bleed the clutch when the line blew off. The only thing I haven't checked is clutch free travel adjustment. how Is this done?


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## Tx Jim

Honestly I can't remember how to adjust clutch free travel but I'll attempt to find out. Do you not have an operators manual?


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## 20156point7

Tx Jim said:


> Honestly I can't remember how to adjust clutch free travel but I'll attempt to find out. Do you not have an operators manual?


Yea i have an operators manual i will check in there

Thanks


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## 20156point7

I checked on the clutch free travel and that only applies to the mechanical clutch, I have the hydraulic clutch


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## Farmineer95

Hydraulic actuated clutch has no free travel adjustment.

Maybe pilot bearing dragging if it is hard to shift ranges or perhaps warped disc.
With hydraulic clutch you might do a test to see if it is bleeding back in the master and not getting full travel at the slave. If you put it in first gear and hold the clutch in for a while will the tractor begin to creep?


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## Tx Jim

20156point7 said:


> I checked on the clutch free travel and that only applies to the mechanical clutch, I have the hydraulic clutch


Thanks for info. I haven't read a JD utility tractor tech or operators manual since I left JD dealership in '87..


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## 20156point7

Farmineer95 said:


> Hydraulic actuated clutch has no free travel adjustment.
> 
> Maybe pilot bearing dragging if it is hard to shift ranges or perhaps warped disc.
> With hydraulic clutch you might do a test to see if it is bleeding back in the master and not getting full travel at the slave. If you put it in first gear and hold the clutch in for a while will the tractor begin to creep?


no it will not creep forward, I have been running it for the last couple days after getting the rebuilt water pump back in and I have noticed the tractor only grinds going into the 2nd range when the tractor is revved up a bit, at idle it shifts into the range fine with no grinding.


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## Tx Jim

I was taught to lower engine rpm's when shifting a manual transmission especially if it's not synchronized.


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## 20156point7

I got my water pump back in and everything seems to be going good except the tachometer is not working now. I must have accidentally pulled this plug out when fixing the water pump. I cannot find where this plugs into to save my life. I checked and the plug does have power running through it


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## mlappin

Does it have a place to plug in on the alternator?


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## Tx Jim

IIRC this is the tachometer sender on LH frt of engine.


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## 20156point7

im still having trouble finding where the plug in goes, all the connections on the alternator are correct.


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## Vol

20156point7 said:


> im still having trouble finding where the plug in goes, all the connections on the alternator are correct.


Not all of the plug connectors are attached on 55 series tractors and this could be one. I have several on one of my 55 series that are not connected but were intended for optional or other accessories. There are several under the roof and a couple around the engine.

Regards, Mike


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## 20156point7

Vol said:


> Not all of the plug connectors are attached on 55 series tractors and this could be one. I have several on one of my 55 series that are not connected but were intended for optional or other accessories. There are several under the roof and a couple around the engine.
> 
> Regards, Mike


Thanks, I just figured this connecter had something to do with the tachometer problem because it is clean and doesn't look like it has been setting on the engine all this time. Well I guess something is wrong with the tachometer itself and isn't a connection problem


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## 20156point7

So I decided to go ahead and run this tractor for a month without the tachometer because I had a lot of stuff to do with it and didn't have time to fix it, today I got the chance to bring it home and try to address this tach issue. I have looked everywhere to see where this plug connects and can't find it.Does anyone know where this plug goes, if not is there any other thing I can try.I wasn't having any tach troubles until I took everything off to replace the water pump and I think something got unplugged or damaged in the process.

Thanks


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## Vol

Where does it come from? Dash?

Regards, Mike


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## somedevildawg

Is that blue with a red tracer?

Or is it red with a blue tracer.....


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## somedevildawg

Purty sure alt. but need to reference wiring schematic to be certain.....


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## 20156point7

After digging around for a bit i found out it plugs into the sending unit on the front of the engine like tx Jim said a few posts back.I never seen this sending unit before because The screens was blocking it and i really didn't think it would stretch all the way around to the front of the engine. But sure enough that's where it went and the tach is now working. Thanks for your help tx Jim


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## Tx Jim

You're very welcome. I'm glad this ole codger could help you/ :lol:

Jim


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