# New Holland 650 Round Baler Tieing problems



## Jason89 (Jul 8, 2017)

I've got a New Holland 650 Autowrap that i got this spring. 2 things i am having a problem with. First thing is when i bought the baler the owner told me that for the first 10 balers or so for the year i will need to tie a rope on to the manual trip tie arm and pull it back to the up position once the bale ties. After 10 bales or so he said it would start doing it on its own. Well 60 bales in i still have to manually pull the arm back up.

Also a week ago i was baling some straw and had 2 things happen. The pickup got to full of straw and i had to manually pull it out, after baling again i tied a bale and got it out of the baler and started baling again. 2 things happened after this. I forgot to pull the manual tie arm back up and i noticed that the arms that run the twine though the outside of the bale and then back to the knifes were hanging down. one of them somehow got hung up on one of the feeder rods(bent up when i filled it with to much straw). I bent the rod back down and the bale tied but now the arms will not go all the way up to get into the knifes to cut. The knifes still open and close like they should.

Any suggestions? At this point i can get a bale wrapped but have to stop the PTO and manually cut the twine with a knife, also beings the arms wont extend all the way up like they should the twine doesn't reach the ends of the bale.

Thank you,


----------



## mike10 (May 29, 2011)

The safety latch released when the arm got caught on the rod. Look in the center where the twine arms pivot, You should see a round tube about 3" long with a bolt and nut going into the end of the tube. At the other end of the tube you will see an opening between two plates. If you manually pivot the twine arms up you will see anther plate rotate up to this opening. Once the plate is up to the opening, give the twine arm a hard pull to snap the plate back in place. All three plates will be in alignment when properly latched. To make the job easier, loosen the nut to free the bolt and screw the bolt out some. This will relieve some of the spring tension and make it much easier to re-latch. Tighten the bolt back where it was.

As for manually tripping the auto wrap, something is not right there. Depending on the year the linkage is probably binding. A photo of that area of the auto wrap will help determine what is going on. You should not have to trip the auto wrap and you definetly should not have to manually raise the lever.


----------



## mike10 (May 29, 2011)

Since this is common question, I will put something together and post it to the pinned thread at the top of the haytalk machinery forum on MY NH Repair etc. I will do it either today or tomorrow. If you can wait it may make what I posted easier to understand.

I will have photos and description of the process of latching the twine arms.


----------



## Jason89 (Jul 8, 2017)

Thank you very much, the picture will make it handy. As for the auto tie it will go through the process of starting to tie all the way to completed to where i can kick the bale out but i have to physically pull the manual arm back up. I will blow the auto tie assembly off and post a picture in a few hours.


----------



## mike10 (May 29, 2011)

Try this link to the post on the safety latch

http://www.haytalk.com/forums/index.php?app=core&module=attach&section=attach&attach_id=55562


----------



## Jason89 (Jul 8, 2017)

Please let me know if these pictures help you.


----------



## mike10 (May 29, 2011)

Check that the linkage is not binding at the pivot areas such as the handle, on the bale size adjusting plate pivot and where the bale size adjusting plate attaches to the flat link which trips the auto wrap. You could try removing the bale size adjusting plate and lubricate the pivot pin.

I have added a second spring, using the same mounts, to the handle so the handle would return. If all the pivot points are free, that is what I would do.


----------



## Jason89 (Jul 8, 2017)

The pivot points all seem to be good. The hook looking part that is in front of the long arm, does it move?


----------



## mike10 (May 29, 2011)

I am not exactly sure what part you are referring to. When the bale reaches the set diameter or you pull the handle down, the gold plate moves forward against the cam with. Is that the hook you are referring to. The gold plate continues to move forward and the cam pivots and releases the clutch dog and the knives open ant the auto wrap starts to cycle.

If all is free add a second spring. I think the part number I used was 32379. This is a larger diameter spring. I fit the current spring inside this larger spring. Later 650's used different linkage to trip the auto wrap which required less spring tension to return the linkage.


----------



## SCtrailrider (May 1, 2016)

My NH648 did the same thing, first couple of rolls it wouldn't trip the tie, figured out the little leaver that engages the clutch was stiff and wouldn't move far enough to hold the clutch.. the area is behind the belt pulley and I couldn't get to it, I sprayed some lube behind the pulley in the disc area and cleaned it as best as I could, so far so good it's worked fine sense..


----------



## Jason89 (Jul 8, 2017)

The cam would be the part(hook) i am talking about. Should it move freely when the machine is off? I agree though i would say it is just a spring tension issue as it all works fine other than the arm not coming back up.

Thank you,


----------



## mike10 (May 29, 2011)

It will not move until the auto wrap is tripped. Once tripped the cam should pivot freely.


----------



## Jason89 (Jul 8, 2017)

10-4


----------

