# More remotes



## KS John (Aug 6, 2018)

I am always needing more remote hydraulics for my tractors. Without going to the trouble and expense of plumbing more, I have run across this simple and relative inexpensive fix. Has anyone seen these or better yet used them? Looks like it should work.

https://summit-hydraulics.com/product/hydraulic-multiplier-kit-scv-splitter-diverter-valve-including-couplers-and-switch-box-control/

Here is a video of them I found also.






Thoughts?


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## glasswrongsize (Sep 15, 2015)

Different brand, but same design. Yup have used 'em. Watch for flow rates on them if it matters any to you. I have one on my skid steer for a third function. Also have one on back of a tractor too.

Mark


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## Aaroncboo (Sep 21, 2014)

Well isn't that the cats a$$... I like it


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## IH 1586 (Oct 16, 2014)

Fasse is a common brand also. Have had one in use since 2001. Uncle picked up one at auction last spring for $25, came with extra switch.


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## luke strawwalker (Jul 31, 2014)

We had to put something like that on our Ford 6600 back in the day to run the round baler, since it needed 2 remotes and the old 6000 series only had a single rear remote. Dealer sold us a manual splitter valve that you either pulled up or pushed down the knob to switch between functions... worked great. Would be a PITA for a loader, but it worked for the baler. It was bolted to the fender and ran a couple short hoses down with Pioneer couplers to the tractor's existing rear SCV couplers. Then it had top/bottom mounted female couplers to take the baler's Pioneer tipped hoses.

Push down the valve knob gave you control of the baler's twine tie tube for wrapping the bale with twine, then once you retracted and cut the twine, pull up the knob and hit "raise" on the main lever and open the back door, kick the bale out, hit "retract" and close the door, pop the knob back down, and start baling again.

I've seen the electric ones and if you want to mount it "remotely" like on the back of the tractor (or have a cab tractor) that would work well, but otherwise if the tractor is open station I'd rather just have the push-pull knob-- less to go wrong than stupid electronics...

Later! OL J R


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## glasswrongsize (Sep 15, 2015)

I will have to disagree with you on that one Luke. I had a push/pull to run a scarifier on an old TD6 and it worked satisfactorily.

I think it would be a toss-up-at-best to chose manual style over the stupid electronics type. With the manual type, there are more hoses to blow and more hoses ran into/near the operator's station, more connections to leak, etc... The "electronics" in these are simple enough to diagnose with a test light and are no harder to work on than headlights, starter, or alternator...wouldn't want to go back to stem-winding the engine, refilling my lights with carbide, etc... ('course I still like a mag over a distributor/coil)

Ain't nothing to these things (basically) except for two spool valves, two solenoids, and a double pole/double throw switch , each of which is user repairable/replaceable.

Mark

Just remembered the sickest I remember being for a long time. Throat sore as heck, lost my voice, nauseated, achy, etc... The push/pull knob on the TD6 was at the right arm rest/battery box. I blew a hoses and the hydraulic oil hit me hard enough under my bicep to leave a massive bruise...or so I thought. Hydraulic oil injected under my hide and caused a nasty sickness. Prolly shoulda went to the hopcycle and got a lollipop for my booboo. 

If it were not for that push pull knob, there would have been no reason for hoses to be there.


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