# Tractor?



## Ray450 (May 23, 2019)

I have about 150 acres east Texas, and I've had Hay guys for the last 8 years or so cutting about 100 acres of it. They love the top 50, don't love the bottom 50 . I put on one big event a year on the property, so it has to all get mowed at least once. If the bottom doesn't get cut, the Ragweed will take over and be 6'-10' tall. Hay guy never pulled out about 150 bales last fall, and the record October rain ruined them. So at some point I'll probably have to deal with them as well.

Equipment I have now; Massey 65 hp open cab 2 W/D with loader, 15' Batwing (Massey can pull it if I'm going slow enough cleaning up missed areas, or areas that had been cut, but she starts getting hot. HD 7' rotary mower, JD 333E CTL, 32' tandem dual gooseneck trailer, all the usual small implements, forks, hay spears, boxblade, 7' disk.

I'm looking at doing the hay myself, in the next couple years, might have to start in the next month if hay guy doesn't show up and get started. I could be retiring in 2-3 years, and would like to pick up a little extra work then, either hay, just mowing or small skidsteer jobs. I'm hoping to get everything for about $60k-$75K, about $37k-44k tractor, $15k baler prefer Net wrap, $10k disk cutter and a rake. I'd like to get tractor first in case that changes the other equipment requirements a little. I think I want a 95-120 HP (about 90-100 PTO), 4x4, loader, cab, prefer E-PTO, 2-3 rear valves, one on loader would be handy, with low hours (under 1,400 hours in Utility, or under about 2400 if one of the bigger lower RPM models like a 6115. I've been looking at 5100E, 5095E, 5101e, some Ms, but rare and expensive, 6105E, then Kubotas (12 speed, but most seem to be 8, and rarely have E-PTO) 9540, 9960, M5-111, M6-101, M6-111. then a few New holland or Case, but have not been my favorites. So far I've actually liked the 5100e the best. I want a small enough set-up that I can trailer it, but big enough that my rougher bottom land doesn't beat me up. I've considered skipping the loader to get more tractor in my price range, since I have a loader on the Massey and CTL, but loader work on the Massey is not fun having to change gears without a reverser, and it gets stuck in wet grass, CTL is also very rough and probably not cost effective to rack up hours that way. Suggestions, recommendations?


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## 8350HiTech (Jul 26, 2013)

If you are only using the CTL to gather bales out of 100 acres of field, you are going to be putting very, very few hours on it per year. It should be an insignificant number really and not enough for you to worry about.


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## Hayman1 (Jul 6, 2013)

If I were in your situation, I would be looking for a JD6320 or Jd6420. Around 15 years old, pre emissions and good tractors. the low 7010 I think is the row crop more or less equivalent if you want to go that route. There should be enough of them out there to get what you want. Actually, I was just looking on tractorhouse the other day and think I saw several in Texas. Should handle your batwing fine and will handle everything else you want to do. for a loader/chore tractor, if you are able to give up the massey $ wise, I would go for a power reverser unit of your choice of color. Personally love my 5075M which is 60 pto hp with a loader open station and canopy 2wd. Handles 4 x 5s like a dream. I have actually tried several times to figure out how to trade out my 6115M 4wd for a 6320 2wd with 38 rears to no avail. too much tax penalty for totally depreciated tractors.


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## Ray450 (May 23, 2019)

Hay master, I don't put a lot of hours on my CTL, and it does work nice to load hay, which is why I was considering skipping on a loader. Biggest issue so far has been chasing leaks, put on new sprockets and had a wire break that kept causing a code to throw. I mostly use it to help build/maintain a 1 mile M/X track and about 8 miles of single track, and to build building pads, pull motorhomes/trailers and 4x4 trucks out when muddy, dig water run-off paths, etc etc.

Hayman, most in those year ranges have a lot more hours than I have been considering. I just don't want to get something that is having issues from day 1. I know if I pick up all the other equipment at auctions, I'll have issues and will be working on them. I didn't find anything close by with under 2800 hours. Closest I saw was a 2003 6415, cab, no loader, 2100 hours for $37,500 looks nice but has some usual issues that come with almost 16 years in the Texas heat. Not sure I want to give up on a loader just yet. I'm surprised your not happy with a 6115M, that would be my dream tractor that is outa my price range and more tractor than I can justify at this time.. What is it you like about the 6300s and 6400s better?


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## Hayman1 (Jul 6, 2013)

Ray450 said:


> Hay master, I don't put a lot of hours on my CTL, and it does work nice to load hay, which is why I was considering skipping on a loader. Biggest issue so far has been chasing leaks, put on new sprockets and had a wire break that kept causing a code to throw. I mostly use it to help build/maintain a 1 mile M/X track and about 8 miles of single track, and to build building pads, pull motorhomes/trailers and 4x4 trucks out when muddy, dig water run-off paths, etc etc.
> 
> Hayman, most in those year ranges have a lot more hours than I have been considering. I just don't want to get something that is having issues from day 1. I know if I pick up all the other equipment at auctions, I'll have issues and will be working on them. I didn't find anything close by with under 2800 hours. Closest I saw was a 2003 6415, cab, no loader, 2100 hours for $37,500 looks nice but has some usual issues that come with almost 16 years in the Texas heat. Not sure I want to give up on a loader just yet. I'm surprised your not happy with a 6115M, that would be my dream tractor that is outa my price range and more tractor than I can justify at this time.. What is it you like about the 6300s and 6400s better?
> 
> ...


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## dvcochran (Oct 1, 2017)

FWIW, me and a haying buddy of mine go in together and bale a really rough 70 acre property because the hay is great. Not sure why but my M9000 is a much smoother ride than his 6115. Both have fluid filled tires. The JD A/C is better than the Kubota but the JD has tinted windows. The JD has an air ride seat and it is still a rough ride.

I hope somebody else will chime in but it doesn't appear the math works out when trying to add a loader vs. buying a tractor with a loader.


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## JD3430 (Jan 1, 2012)

Look for a Kubota M-126X/135X. Perfect for round baling!
They don't have any pollution BS, they are pretty modern/comfortable and very reliable. 
Cheap to buy and plenty of power. 16sp power-shift and hydraulic reverser.
I have 2 and like them for hay and batwing mowing. M135X has front suspension and shockless ride loader, so real nice on my "fields".


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## Hayman1 (Jul 6, 2013)

dvcochran said:


> FWIW, me and a haying buddy of mine go in together and bale a really rough 70 acre property because the hay is great. Not sure why but my M9000 is a much smoother ride than his 6115. Both have fluid filled tires. The JD A/C is better than the Kubota but the JD has tinted windows. The JD has an air ride seat and it is still a rough ride.
> 
> I hope somebody else will chime in but it doesn't appear the math works out when trying to add a loader vs. buying a tractor with a loader.


I agree with the air ride which I have it can get in a cycle that isn't smooth. I just think 4wd is way rougher than 2. I drove a 4wd 5085m once and couldn't get out of it fast enough. But it does have artic air


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## Palmettokat (Jul 10, 2017)

Ray450, I have a JD5525, cab with loader and front wheel drive and air ride seat. Also have a M6800 2 wheel Kubota with standard seat and no cab. Between those two tractors the JD is riding much better ride. Larger diameter tires just ride better. Of those I have paid attention to the four wheel drive has larger tires then the two wheel drive does on the front end. NOW, if I hit a rough field with my JD tires pumped up for loader it rides like...well rough. This is limited testing so consider that.

On your Massey running hot, have you had your cooling system checked? Could have radiator that needs to be cleaned out (may even need the core replaced) and don't miss air intake for air restriction due to an insect nest or air filter that needs replacing will also cause it to run hot. No doubt you are keeping the radiator washed or blown out for that is easy to see when it needs cleaning. I have a small Kubota I like using with small rough cut mower in tight areas and have had to clean the trash out of the radiator at least once an hour when cutting dry taller grass. Of course it may be the load of the cutter for the speed and so forth.


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## Ray450 (May 23, 2019)

JD3430 said:


> Look for a Kubota M-126X/135X.


Would love one, but I'm pretty sure I'd never find one in my price range.



Palmettokat said:


> On your Massey running hot, have you had your cooling system checked?


I'm pretty sure I need to yank the radiator and replace it or have it gone thru, probably about number 65 on my top 100 things I need to do when I have the time. But it does pretty good with the 7' mower, which almost always stays attached to it. I think the 15' batwing is really just too much for 60 pto hp in anything more than a couple feet of grass.

This is what the back looks like if it doesn't get cut.









This is what it looks like when you get three times the normal October rains and you still have hay bales in the bottom.


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## JD3430 (Jan 1, 2012)

Don't know your budget, but you can get a decent to good one in the 30-40 range
Much cheaper than M-111
There are tractors built from 2008-2012, so they're fairly old.
I got a 135X with low hours, loaded to the gills and a really nice loader for 40.


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## dvcochran (Oct 1, 2017)

Ray450 said:


> Would love one, but I'm pretty sure I'd never find one in my price range.
> 
> I'm pretty sure I need to yank the radiator and replace it or have it gone thru, probably about number 65 on my top 100 things I need to do when I have the time. But it does pretty good with the 7' mower, which almost always stays attached to it. I think the 15' batwing is really just too much for 60 pto hp in anything more than a couple feet of grass.
> 
> ...


Holy crap, you mow that stuff? What is it?


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## Ray450 (May 23, 2019)

Giant Ragweed, locals call it blood weed. It really likes the wetter bottom areas and ditches. The grass in my back bottom areas actually looks pretty good up until about July when this stuff starts growing up over it. Then it shoots up, chokes out everything under it and develops very fibrous stalks. If you cut early enough with the grass, I've heard arguments that it's better cow hay than the usual weedy grasses, wait too long and yes, it's not worth baling. My top acreage looks much better, I've got lots of people wanting to cut the front. I always panic this time of year, because I know if no one gets it cut in the next month, it won't be worth cutting, and it's then too thick for me to cut with the equipment I currently have until winter when it's dried up. When that pic was taken, my hay guy had waited too long to cut the back two years in a row, cutting the front several times, which is why he is no longer my hay guy and I want to do my own hay. So I can control exactly when it does get cut.


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## R6Farms (Jun 24, 2019)

Not sure if you’ve purchased your tractor or not but one tractor you mentioned was a 5100E, we have 1 of those and consider it a damn good one, we bought ours with a loader for mid 40s. We use it for several applications from brush hogging, raking, cutting and even baling, we have run 3 different mower conditioners with it and zero problems with power etc..... we run our 468 mega wide with it when our baling tractor is busy (or down). The 310 loader on that thing is a bit much I feel like but the tractor handles fine. Bottom line is the 5100 is a great tractor, we recently bought a new cab tractor and while doing so I almost went with another 5100 instead of a 6 series.


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## Ray450 (May 23, 2019)

No, still looking. My hay guy showed up Monday so hopefully he will get the place looking good. It's getting really thick in some areas and I have to start getting ready for a event. I would have loved to get a 2017 Kubota M6-101 with 340 hours, sold online auction in Oklahoma for $52k. I just can't justify spending that much right now on just the tractor, but I think it's a great price for that tractor. The 5100E is still probably at the top of my list, I'm not in a big hurry so hopefully I can find a great deal on a low hour unit. You can get good deals at these auctions, but I've also seen several units that had pretty big issues, and someone was just trying to dump them off. I've bought from auctions before, and I've had issues before. I'm thinking about making an offer on a 6105E, but it doesn't have a loader. I have loaders on a smaller Massey and my 333E, so a loader isn't required, but it sure would be nice in the only AC equipped vehicle I would have.


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## Ray450 (May 23, 2019)

Might go look at a couple tractors Monday and Tuesday.

JD 5085M 712 hours cab/loader auction ( +awesome tractor, but I already have a 60 PTO hp tractor, and I'm not sure this will be big enough, I'd prefer 90-110 PTO HP and 34 or 38 rears for my rough pastures). (Went and looked, super nice, just afraid it won't be quite big enough in PTO hp at times and wish it had bigger tires. only issue was rear electric 3pt control didn't work, and these M models always sell for so much more.)

Kubota 105X 782 hours cab/loader auction (might go cheap, a little older than most I'm looking at but no emissions. Found some complaints online that it is weak on torque/HP for size of tractor , weak hydraulics, and lurchy/fast wear on clutch and trans. (Went and looked, seemed really beat-up for just 782 hours, 3pt light flashing, and wouldn't go down with rear controls, ran well, as almost always, the Deere with almost the same hours seemed almost like new, Kubota seemed like a 2000 hour tractor and the AC blew twice as hard in the Deere)

2013 Kubota M126GXDTC 1200 hours $42k cab/ldr (seems like the best deal, but the furthest from me, I'm guessing about 13k # as equipped. Pretty heavy and far for me, plus all day just to go see it. It's about 6 hours away) I have a new 33' tandem dual and a Ram 3500 DRW, but I've never pulled anything close to that heavy or that far. It also has the worst pics and some conflicting info, I have my doubts about this one. I have sent an email asking for some decent pics and more info. (Still sounds like the best deal, but it's a 12 hour round trip just to see it!, and it has 400 more hours then the 105X I looked at and wasn't impressed with how it was holding up)

2013 JD 6115D 815 hours $53k cab/ldr (I like everything about this but 9 speed. Is it enough HP to overcome just 9 speeds? And I like the E-PTO in tractors like the 5100E, it's also a bit outside my Max price range. I was considering offering them $50k and I'd come get it, it's not that far away. (Might go look today, sent a email asking a few questions, and told them I'd brng my trailer and a check if they would take $46k, pretty sure they won't. 9 speed is my big hangup, thoughts?) With plenty of power and torque, would I be happy with 9speeds?

2018 Massey 6712 cab/ldr 748 hours, auction with free delivery. I love everything about this tractor, it checks all the boxes, but it will probably go way past my budget. Only real issue is Massey dealers are far away and Masseys just are not popular around here. Size I want, power I want, newer but only SCR emmisions, 540E, 540 and 1000 ptos, 9000# rear lift,

(Auction is up in two days, sent a email asking a few questions, might get in the bidding. Can't imagine spending this kinda money on a used tractor without ever seeing it)

Any thoughts on any of these? Just doesn't seem to be many deere 5100 or Kubota M5 or M6-111 right now in my range, plus I'm leaning towards bigger tires. My hay guy now still hasn't finished, and actually just burned down his 5101E, he is complaining alot about how rough the back is.


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## Ray450 (May 23, 2019)

Nothing?


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## JD3430 (Jan 1, 2012)

The three point light flashing in the Kubota is no big deal. It's just you have to slide the three-point lift arm sliding switch up in the cab and then click the rocker switch down and it will go off.
Both of mine do same thing. It's just a minor annoyance.
If it were me, I would go look at the other Kubota.
If well cared for, I bet you'll love it. 24 speed power shift will be really sweet to bale with. 9 speeds is not enough in my opinion. 
I like mine a lot and I only have 16 speed power shift's.
Very dependable tractors and perfect for mid size hay farming operation.


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## Ray450 (May 23, 2019)

Yea, it still sounds like a good deal, almost all the others sold at auction or didn't work out, mostly because of condition. I already have enough stuff giving me headaches, don't want to add to that list. It's listed in Tractorhouse as a 2013 Kubota M-126GXDTC. One of the issues that worries me about spending all day to just go see it, is it's actually a M-126X. It's listed as a 12 speed powerquad. It's actually a 16 speed, which is fine, but it raises concerns about how well he knows this tractor. It now has 1200 hours and he said the only issues are the air-ride seat doesn't work, the radio doesn't work and it's faded. Again, none are that big of an issue, all outside kept Kubotas look 20 years old after 6 years, but it paints a picture of a previous owner that didn't fix things as they broke or needed attention. So I'm assuming there's more issues.

The 5085M sold for $50k< I'd have bought it if it was bigger, but it probably would have sold for more, MF 6712 sold for $55k, outa my price range and I could n't spend that much on something I could look at first, Kubota M-105x sold for $37k-seems like a great deal except it seemed more like a 2000 hour tractor than a 800 hour tractor. I've emailed the dealer about the 6115D several times n got no response, I also emailed about a couple 5100E Deeres, but both were already sold. Gota decide if I want to take a 14 hour day to look/get the M-126X, or just blow thi off for awhile, getting tired of looking. Sad you can't spend $50k for a used piece of equipment labeled "Utility" and find one that everything works and has everything you want..


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## Hayman1 (Jul 6, 2013)

Ray450 said:


> Might go look at a couple tractors Monday and Tuesday.
> 
> JD 5085M 712 hours cab/loader auction ( +awesome tractor, but I already have a 60 PTO hp tractor, and I'm not sure this will be big enough, I'd prefer 90-110 PTO HP and 34 or 38 rears for my rough pastures). (Went and looked, super nice, just afraid it won't be quite big enough in PTO hp at times and wish it had bigger tires. only issue was rear electric 3pt control didn't work, and these M models always sell for so much more.)
> 
> ...


I do green so won't bother commenting on the others. the M's are nice, have two of them. However, as you said, for your use, the 85 is probably too small. Thought I wanted to trade down to one but rode in it helping a friend. dang tires are so small on those I thought I was going to have to scrape my remains off the hood of the cab. I don't know why Deere insists on having such piddly tires on 80-100 hp tractors. they are in love with the 30" mold owner I guess. Then on 4wd units the front tires look like they came off a lawn tractor. My buddy still has his 5100 M, actually he traded it on another to get 38 rears. Havent driven that one yet to compare it to my 6115. I had a 6100D 2wd. Think 2011. That was a lot of tractor for the money but it had that awful 9 speed which I hated for hay work. if you are just bushhogging, it is fine, or doing loader work, no problem. But with needing to up and downshift with the diskbine and baler, drove me nuts. Hay work was my only use other than pushing a little deep snow every 3 years. You can get the partial ps in it now I believe.


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## JD3430 (Jan 1, 2012)

Ray450 said:


> Yea, it still sounds like a good deal, almost all the others sold at auction or didn't work out, mostly because of condition. I already have enough stuff giving me headaches, don't want to add to that list. It's listed in Tractorhouse as a 2013 Kubota M-126GXDTC. One of the issues that worries me about spending all day to just go see it, is it's actually a M-126X. It's listed as a 12 speed powerquad. It's actually a 16 speed, which is fine, but it raises concerns about how well he knows this tractor. It now has 1200 hours and he said the only issues are the air-ride seat doesn't work, the radio doesn't work and it's faded. Again, none are that big of an issue, all outside kept Kubotas look 20 years old after 6 years, but it paints a picture of a previous owner that didn't fix things as they broke or needed attention. So I'm assuming there's more issues.
> 
> The 5085M sold for $50k< I'd have bought it if it was bigger, but it probably would have sold for more, MF 6712 sold for $55k, outa my price range and I could n't spend that much on something I could look at first, Kubota M-105x sold for $37k-seems like a great deal except it seemed more like a 2000 hour tractor than a 800 hour tractor. I've emailed the dealer about the 6115D several times n got no response, I also emailed about a couple 5100E Deeres, but both were already sold. Gota decide if I want to take a 14 hour day to look/get the M-126X, or just blow thi off for awhile, getting tired of looking. Sad you can't spend $50k for a used piece of equipment labeled "Utility" and find one that everything works and has everything you want..


The fact that it's an M126X and not a M126Gx has some advantages, the biggest one being it has no DPF/DEF. it a little bit simpler overall tractor. The 16 speed powershift, while not a 24, is still a very nice baling transmission (and all other chores I use it for).
The radios and speakers aren't the best. I just picked up an M135X with what I thought was a broken radio-it was actually the speakers were no good. 
Also noteworthy that the 126X is a considerably more tractor than the 105X. It has a 6L diesel instead of a 3.8L, larger tires and more hydraulic power. 
1200 hours is pretty low for a 8-10yr old tractor. 
Once you factor in everything that doesn't work, throw the seller a price that reflects the broken things.
I paid 41k for a M135x with a Kubota LA2253 self level loader, new 8' bucket and remote hydraulics on the loader. It has 1900 hours in good condition. It also has the front suspension which is an expensive option. It also has 4 sets of remotes, instructor seat and cast rear rims. I thought I got a great deal. I would have paid as much as 44, but offered 41 with them installing new speakers, changing engine oil and filter and hydraulic filters. I was pretty surprised they took my offer. 
From what I know about the one you are looking at, I wouldn't do more than 38-39.

What I usually do when I'm in your situation is call the seller and tell him you need more/better pictures or more info. Also, ask him if he would consider, say 36 or 37. If he says no, ask him what his bottom line is. If he won't sell under 39, walk.

Another one will come along.


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## Ray450 (May 23, 2019)

Thoughts on a new 6105E with 12 speed? How much better is this 12 speed over the older 9 speed. I assume it's more gears in the needed range, rather than just 3 more lower or higher gears, because it still only has a top speed of 19mph. The dealer with the 6115D finally got back with me, it's sold. But he says he can make a smoking deal on a new 6105E, supposed to be sending me the details. Really didn't want to spend that much, but it's getting tempting.


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## dvcochran (Oct 1, 2017)

Ray,

Slow your roll. There is a tractor out there. I am guessing $80k will not touch a new one.


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## Ray450 (May 23, 2019)

I talked to him a week ago ( after sending a third message about their advertised used 6115D, which had already been sold) and he brought up the 6105E, he claimed there was a new rebate and it would be around $70k, and he had a used one coming in that would be in my price range. I told him to send me some info on both, have not heard anything since. I bet I have gotten responses on 1 out of 5 messages I have sent about tractors. Must be very busy time of year for tractor dealers, none seem too eager to try to take my money.

Still debating on spending a day to go look at the Kubota M126x. It's a long ways off, and since almost everything is wrong on the listing, I have my doubts that it doesn't have some issues and would be a wasted very long day. The list of known issues seems to go up every time I communicate with him (although he is the only one that has always responded). It's listed as the wrong model, wrong number of gears/tranny, wrong year (I've compared serial numbers on every Kubota M126X I could find in old adds and auctions, I'm betting it's actually a 09 model, not a 13 as advertised). I'm also leaning towards a Deere, mostly because the closest dealers to me are two Deere dealers, I already have a Deere 333E CTL, the Deeres seem to have better AC systems, and of the used ones I've looked at so far, the Deeres seem to hold up better than the Kubotas.


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## BWfarms (Aug 3, 2015)

I was searching everywhere for the perfect tractor. At first I searched the regular way via internet, dealership lots, and publications. I wasn't finding units in my price range I was willing to purchase. I left my contact information and what I was searching for at every local dealer in a 50 mile radius while I continued to scour ads.

I eventually found one and bought it after a long odyssey. The thing that stuck out in my mind is I never recieved a single phone call from any of the dealerships unless it was a unit on their lot that I called them about.

So don't expect them to remember to call you. If you're sending emails, they look at that as you are not all that serious.


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## Palmettokat (Jul 10, 2017)

No re3ponse can be for more than one reason. Don't let that worry you other than to realize some including you and myself call it rude. As to hauling a tractor of that size you may wish to price having it hauled.

I have had local dealer fail to return about four calls and after having bought there just few years earlier. Learned later he was over whelmed and also left the dealership so guess his heart was not in it. Had another dealership about same distance away as you are considering traveling to and as we talked a couple of time, the last time he said something along the line I really need to talk with you. In talking with you don't think this tractor would please you. It is not in as good of shape as you are looking for. Impressed me.

Ended up buying from a JD dealership who did not have time to speak to me when I drove there (about an hour) nor return my emails till the right person got my last email in my telling them of my experiences.

I have read a few post that at least certain Kubota models a/c don't have the capacity they need in hotter areas. As to how one looks compared to the hours on it, hours meters do get replaced and also fail.


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## Ray450 (May 23, 2019)

Still looking. My race season is over so time to get a little more serious at tractors and Hay equipment. Here's a few I'm considering, with this first one up online in 6 hours.

2017 Kubota M6S-111 cab/ldr with 400 hours. Seems really nice, but didn't have time to inspect. It is a very basic tractor (S economy model not the bigger M6-111 with many more upgrades) with almost no fancy switches to control anything, probably a plus for me. Seems like a good compromise size between the smaller M5-111 and 5100Es, and the larger Deere 6 series that I have looked at. I might pull the trigger if the price is right. 3.8l rated at 2600 rpm and a 3 pt lift capacity of just 3800# are my top concerns.

2018 JD 6105E cab/ldr 260 hours, 1 year of warranty left, 24f/12r splitter tranny and upsized tires with 38s on back, just over $60k (not really nailed down how much over). On paper, it's the best deal/tractor for me. Here's the issue though, they didn't have this one there yet, so I drove it's sister with 500 hours, and it was almost the exact same and had come from the same owner. It seemed really big and heavy, and was far less maneuverable than the 5100E, M5-111 and NH T4 110 I have recently tested. I stalled it, had trouble shifting while driving, the HD loader seemed bigger than the 84" loader on my 333E CTL, and it just felt huge and cumbersome, without much of anything special. Being in a crowded lot didn't help either. I'd probably love it when in my rough bottoms, but not sure I'll love it when I'm just loading and moving bales, just feels like a tank.

new 5100E, just over $60k, cab/ldr. Hate the skinny front tires, no other options on tires, not wild about rear 30s either or the 3200# rear 3pt lit capacity with no way to improve. I tried using my Massey to pull around my 33' goosneck to load hay, and it couldn't keep it lifted enough to get 12 bales back to the front, I can't find a capacity/test on it, but I assume it's probably almost as much as the 5100E. I don't like some of the specs on this tractor, but love them every time I test one out. Also love the AC in these.

New New Holland Powerstar 110, cab/ldr $60k Closest dealer to me, so I finally stopped. Not really sure why I don't like NH, but the small 3.4 engines getting it done with what I assume is a lot of turbo and the fact that there seems to be a lot of hate for them on the forums. A buddy of mine uses the sister Case, and does not like them as he has had some major failures. Tons of these in the area though. The surprising thing was, I actually really liked this tractor and it was probably the easiest to operate and whip around with the most forgiving reverser. I like the wider front tires, the 34 rears, the weight, the specs, I prefer it's DEF only way of emissions, pretty much everything except the shorter wheel base might be a handful in the rough, the resale isn't as good and there seems to be a lot of haters on the blue tractors.

Used M5-111, 9960 kubotas all over. Good deals, plenty of them, but more 8 speeds than 12, and I want at least 12. Just seems to light, and skinny front tires, and inside just seems cheap. Most specs are impressive, other than weight, which everyone says is the most important. $43k-52K.


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## JD3430 (Jan 1, 2012)

You can always swap on wider tires and add weight to the Kubota.


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## Ray450 (May 23, 2019)

I stopped bidding on the M6S-111 at $48,250, it then sold for $48,500. It am about 3 hours away, so it seemed like I was pretty much at about $50k for a tractor I've never inspected/driven and have never even seen that particular model.

I'm not sure if the M5-111 or 5100E can go with wider tires, as they don't list them as options. I assume it has to do with rim width and/or could interfere with steering?. I've also seen some complaints ref the kubota lack of turning power at idle or at a stop, so I assume wider tires/additional weight could make that worse.

Any opinions on the list above? They are all pretty close n price, although I'm not sure I've given up on finding a better deal and one I can pay cash for between about $44k-$54K.


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## BWfarms (Aug 3, 2015)

You invert rims or use spacers if clearance is an issue for wider tires.

As far as the feeling of big and cumbersome, you get used to it and then it's not as bad as you think.


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## Tx Jim (Jun 30, 2014)

Ray

If you're planning on pulling your 32' GN loaded with hay with a tractor you need to read the thread on Green Tractor talk about the JD5100E that broke in 1/2 trying to accomplish that same feat. The reason I'm thinking that you're considering pulling GN with tractor is your concern for higher 3 pt lift capacity.

https://www.greentractortalk.com/forums/utility-tractors/191190-5101e-broke-half.html


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## Ray450 (May 23, 2019)

Tx Jim said:


> Ray
> 
> If you're planning on pulling your 32' GN loaded with hay with a tractor you need to read the thread on Green Tractor talk about the JD5100E that broke in 1/2 trying to accomplish that same feat. The reason I'm thinking that you're considering pulling GN with tractor is your concern for higher 3 pt lift capacity.
> 
> https://www.greentractortalk.com/forums/utility-tractors/191190-5101e-broke-half.html


Yes, that is exactly what I'd like to be able to do. Thx for sharing, and yes that is one of my big concerns with the 5100E, a 3200# 3pt rating, most of the others I've looked at are closer to 5-6k#, the M6S-111 I was looking at is only 3800#, but can have optional cylinders that bump it to 6k#, so I assume the arms, links, and tractor are plenty beefy to handle it. I welded a ball on top of a rear spear, so I can quickly raise the 3pt, hook up the GN, drive it to the bales, lower 3pt to unhook, gather bales 3 at a time with front n rear spears, then load hay and move trailer without having to get off tractor. I think it's a fairly common way of doing it. Right now I end up doing a lot of walking, and getting in and out of tractor/truck. My Massey 271 couldn't do it with 12 bales. It would lift and pull it until I needed additional power to pull thru a very small low spot, or when I picked up a bale with the front to be able to steer it, 3pt would start slowly dropping. Similar Masseys had a rating of about 3k#. I'm assuming the extra weight and capacity of the 6105E would have no issues with it . Just moving 12 bales probably puts about 3-4k# on the ball/3pt, and I'd probably just ever put about 15-16 on it just to move bales to the front, and most of that would go to the back, so shouldn't ever be more than 4-6k pounds of GN weight, pulling a total of just under 20k#. Just guesses/estimates though. I tried attaching a pic of my trailer with hay on it, but can't seem to get it done. Bales are 4x5s. My old Hay guy did something very similar, but kept it to about 8-10 bales (he did 5x6 though) and used a much lighter Kubota M8540.


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## JD3430 (Jan 1, 2012)

Ray450 said:


> Yes, that is exactly what I'd like to be able to do. Thx for sharing, and yes that is one of my big concerns with the 5100E, a 3200# 3pt rating, most of the others I've looked at are closer to 5-6k#, the M6S-111 I was looking at is only 3800#, but can have optional cylinders that bump it to 6k#, so I assume the arms, links, and tractor are plenty beefy to handle it. I welded a ball on top of a rear spear, so I can quickly raise the 3pt, hook up the GN, drive it to the bales, lower 3pt to unhook, gather bales 3 at a time with front n rear spears, then load hay and move trailer without having to get off tractor. I think it's a fairly common way of doing it. Right now I end up doing a lot of walking, and getting in and out of tractor/truck. My Massey 271 couldn't do it with 12 bales. It would lift and pull it until I needed additional power to pull thru a very small low spot, or when I picked up a bale with the front to be able to steer it, 3pt would start slowly dropping. Similar Masseys had a rating of about 3k#. I'm assuming the extra weight and capacity of the 6105E would have no issues with it . Just moving 12 bales probably puts about 3-4k# on the ball/3pt, and I'd probably just ever put about 15-16 on it just to move bales to the front, and most of that would go to the back, so shouldn't ever be more than 4-6k pounds of GN weight, pulling a total of just under 20k#. Just guesses/estimates though. I tried attaching a pic of my trailer with hay on it, but can't seem to get it done. Bales are 4x5s. My old Hay guy did something very similar, but kept it to about 8-10 bales (he did 5x6 though) and used a much lighter Kubota M8540.


The optional 3pt high capacity cylinder kit is an easy 1-2 hour job. I highly suggest it. My 126 & 135 have them and although it wasn't a must for me, it was cheap & easy to add myself.

You can go on line and look up a tire/wheel chart to find wider tires. I actually kind of don't mind buying a tractor with worn out tires so long as it's priced lower. That way I can install the exact rubber I want on the rims. You can also add cast center wheels, wheel weights, fluid or front suitcase weights.

Consider buying a slightly older pre emissions 6L tractor that has a powershift, heavier frame/weight and 38" rear tires.You'll spend about the same and you'll get a tractor thatll last longer, ride nicer and be easier to operate.


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## Ray450 (May 23, 2019)

I was pretty excited about this tractor at first,

https://www.auctiontime.com/listings/farm-equipment/auctions/online/167231393/kubota-m135gx

They didn't have hours listed when the listing first came out, and replied to my email asking about hours with a, "It'll get posted soon". Then yesterday, I sent another and was told it was 2300 hours. The ad then read 1460, so I sent another asking if it was 2300 or 1460, they said it was a typo, that it is 2300, but have not changed the ad. This place is actually only about an hour away so I could go see it. I went there before and looked at two tractors, one being a Kubota M105X that was supposed to have about 700 hours, seemed like it had a lot more to me, but did read that. I was really trying to find something with less than 700 hours, but 1500 wouldn't bother me on a 6L, not sure about 2300. I know it's got a lot of life left in it, but I really need to eliminate Issues that are eating all my spare time. Anyway, I'm a little leery of it now anyway.

This is pretty much what I want to do, but on a slightly smaller scale.





 , but he has a longer 45' trailer, smoother, flatter terrain, hauling more bales than I will, and is using a 115/95 HP/PTO tractor that weighs 11,500 plus ldr and a rear 3pt rating of 9,285#.


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## dvcochran (Oct 1, 2017)

I have done this with my 2wd M9000 for the last two years. Even pull a very short distance down a paved road. The gooseneck I use will only hold 11 5x5 bales. I have not had any problems yet.

I made a tubing frame very similar to a rear spear frame and welded a 2-5/16" ball on top and added a 1/2" thick flange at the bottom with a 2" ball. Works very good.

I do not know if my tractor has the heavier lift kit mentioned but I have never had a problem raising the trailer when fully loaded.


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## Ray450 (May 23, 2019)

Going to look at another 6105E 24f/12R with radial 38s on rear, cab/ldr, optional hitch with 7500# lift, 600 hours, one year left of warranty. I tested a 2009 Kubota M135X, and really liked it, but it had some issues, and for the price/hours, just didn't seem like a great deal. It was the same basic size as the 6105E I drove before, but the tranny was much easier to use and it seemed to be much more nimble. I'm giving the 6105E one more try, this one seems like a really good deal, has all the specs I want, I just have to get used to the shifting/tranny. I'll try to spend a little more time in it. For it's size, 10,500 before ballast/weights, probably at least 12k# as is now with ldr and options, is 105 HP enough? rated 87 HP pto, Nebraska tested at 93hp, with 285 ftlb torque @1400 rpm. There are 3 models in the 6E series, 105, 120 and 135, so I know there's more in there. Is it just computer settings that could be changed later if needed? I have a older 15' batwing, and I'll gather older/used baler/cutter etc, and I have a history of being rough on equipment, so for now I'm probably better off with the model with lower HP within a range. There's seems to be a lot of 6105E out there though that are coming back awful soon, and with the bigger tires, just curious if it really needs more power. The closest dealers to me are Deere and NH/Case, and the Kubota dealers don't even respond to my emails.


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## Ray450 (May 23, 2019)

I went back and looked at the 6105E, 620 hours, cab/ldr 24f/12R with 460/85R38 R1 radials and 380/85R24 R1 radial tires, Heavy hitch (7300#) dual rear SCV, air seat and a fairly crappy radio. It had a smaller HD 7' bucket, the other two had bigger 96" buckets, but added to the heavy/wide feel, so I think I prefer the smaller bucket anyway. It was still very dirty, obviously run by farmhands that didn't give a crap about it, and probably never had any maintenance, but the only things I found wrong were a broken drivers mirror, they had jammed the adjustable rear rock arm all the way, and the seat had some of the plastic adjustment pieces pulled off. Other than some usual minor scuffs, I couldn't find anything else, and it has 10 months left on warranty. We are just a grand apart now. Any thoughts on this particular tractor? What's it worth and will I be happy with it? I like the specs, it's a very basic tractor with very few bells and whistles, no DPF or regens but does have DEF/SCR and DOC, and I like everything except the crappy shifting (all the 6E series I've driven shift almost as bad as my 20 year old Massey, but at least this one has a reverser and a push button splitter between the 12 gears that doesn't require the clutch).


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## Ray450 (May 23, 2019)

6105E?

Might go look at it one more time now that it's cleaned up. I think I'm leaning towards passing on it, mainly because of the tranny. Seems like a pretty big tractor to trailer as well.


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## carcajou (Jan 28, 2011)

I wouldn't buy an e series JD tractor. Just not up to everyday use in my opinion. I could be wrong but i think they're coming back because the previous owners found that out too.


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## Ray450 (May 23, 2019)

Search is over, I bought the 6105E. Third trip there and we finally hammered out a deal. Can't seem to post pics, but they did ironically, finally add pics to their ad. They had just cleaned it up. Now I gota find a baler, mower, rake and spear. Might pick up a cheap global spear at a auction I had taken off to go to, but I'm debating if I should get a Global to Skid Steer adapter, then get all skid steer style implements that would fit on either my tractor or CTL.

https://www.unitedagandturf.com/used-equipment/utility-tractors/john-deere-6105e-e515662/


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## JD3430 (Jan 1, 2012)

Always cool to get a new tractor- any brand, it doesn’t matter!


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## Ray450 (May 23, 2019)

Not a lot of talk on haytalk.

Well, not sure if it's a great tractor for me or not, but It's mine now and I got it home without any problems. Now I have to locate a mower, baler, hay spears and rake before it's time for 1st cutting. If I can't, I'm hoping to at least find a cutter and rake, and find someone with a baler that will come in and take a portion of the hay. What's the usual ratio for that?

Baler, I'm leaning toward a used 468 or 469 net wrap, around 10k bales, under $15k, Any other recs? I'd consider anything, I just thought if I did stick to Deere, since I have a Deere tractor and CTL, that parts/service callouts would be from the same dealer, and the Deere dealers are the closest. The baler scares me the most as far as getting one that could have a lot of issues.

Cutter, leaning towards a 9'-11' pull type disc. I don't have perfectly flat, smooth fields. Some areas never get mowed because they scare my past hay guys, but I know every inch of the property and where the scary stuff is (I put on a offroad M/C race there most years and have a Endurocross and a motocross section), I assume one with wheels or on a caddy would help a novice operator from tearing things up? Seems to be what most are using around the area. Looking to spend under $10k if possible. Recs, or suggestions?

Rake, no real idea, I assume a wheel rake just to save initial costs. No idea really how wide/# wheels? Well under $4k?

Spear, want to get one that can easily handle two bales. Found a local new Alo/Massey that has 5 low mounting positions, standard is about 3 1/2 ft apart with two just outside positions that would make it a little over 4' apart. It's only $500, but doesn't seem that HD, not as heavy as the two spear JD units that sell for $700 and don't have any adjustability, , the frame is only 4' wide, but I assume it would do the job. The harder decision, is should I get a global adapter to skidsteer to use a hay spear on either my tractor and/or CTL? Right now I use forks on my CTL. I really don't want to throw out another grand for a adapter, and the cheap ones I think would get destroyed by this tractor/me.

Trying to spend between $20k-$25k to round up what I need for this season, knowing that in a couple years I'll likely upgrade some of this equipment when I'm trying to pick-up more work. I'll only be doing my property for now, I have about 145 aces, but only about 100 can actually be cut for hay.


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## Tx Jim (Jun 30, 2014)

I think I would not worry about the reliability of a JD rd baler with only 10,000 bales. My 467 has over 26,000 on the monitor & I'm not concerned with it's reliability. Here's a 468 for $16.500 with no bale count listed on DFW CL that I have no connection with but just noticed the ad.

https://dallas.craigslist.org/ndf/grd/d/krum-john-deere-468/7037539143.html


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## Ray450 (May 23, 2019)

Tx Jim said:


> I think I would not worry about the reliability of a JD rd baler with only 10,000 bales. My 467 has over 26,000 on the monitor & I'm not concerned with it's reliability. Here's a 468 for $16.500 with no bale count listed on DFW CL that I have no connection with but just noticed the ad.
> 
> https://dallas.craigslist.org/ndf/grd/d/krum-john-deere-468/7037539143.html


It has 16-17k bales, I assume it comes with a monitor. I've asked twice but he didn't answer that question. I've discovered you can't ever ask more than one question at a time, because you almost only ever get one of them answered. Anyway, it does look pretty clean. But, I'm hoping to get back on budget since I went almost $3k over on the tractor. Really hoping to find a lower bale count unit under $15k. One of the salesman I dealt with on the tractor thinks he has a nice 6k bale baler coming in that would sell for about what this one is listed for, but he also said the outside of it looks pretty rough. Seems like I've seen some at auction going between $10k and $16k, but most don't list the bale #. Is there a way to power up the monitors without hooking them up, of knowing the actual bale count?


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## Ray450 (May 23, 2019)

Probably need to get the mower first, been doing a lot of research on side-pull, mid-pivot, conditioners, caddy's, widths and HP. Thoughts on this one? Again, over my budget, but maybe within a offer.

https://dallas.craigslist.org/dal/grd/d/bonham-massey-ferguson-1372-hay-cutter/7016313857.html

Too much for a 6105E, and for what I'm doing? I'm really liking the sound of the mid-pivots though, might make is easier to negotiate trees and obstacles, and I'm going to be strapped by time this next season, I like the idea of a 12' cut. I know I've been using a 7' rotary mower and a 15' batwing, and my patience gets tested really quick with the 7' mower.


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## Tx Jim (Jun 30, 2014)

Ray450 said:


> Is there a way to power up the monitors without hooking them up, of knowing the actual bale count?


To check # of bales on JD monitor one needs monitor to be attached to 12 volts & IIRC attached to baler harness. I think my monitor hasn't been out of tractor since '07. If baler owner in ad won't answer questions then I'd scratch him & ad off my list. I agree a center pivot cutter is nice but my cutter operator has very minor issues cutting odd shaped fields with trees with a 9 ft Krone AM283 mounted on a caddy.


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## r82230 (Mar 1, 2016)

A baler would be the last piece to add, if you can get it custom baled.

As far as baler's, I would suggest being a little more color blind, there are some good yellow & red balers out there, that might not come with the more expensive green paint.  In any case, if you can possibly avoid balers that have seen cornstalks, it may behoove you to do so.

I know nothing about disc mowers (either with or without caddies), but seems a mounted mower, would give you some counter-balance for certain difficult cutting areas. But, from what I've read, mounted must be more difficult to hook/un-hook too.

Larry


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## paoutdoorsman (Apr 23, 2016)

Congrats on the tractor purchase Ray450. I hope it serves you well! I got to this party too late and the dealer pulled it from their site.


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## Vol (Jul 5, 2009)

r82230 said:


> I know nothing about disc mowers (either with or without caddies), but seems a mounted mower, would give you some counter-balance for certain difficult cutting areas. But, from what I've read, mounted must be more difficult to hook/un-hook too.
> 
> Larry


Not really. I can get just about any of them on pretty quick. I think some folks just have a hard time conceptually in figuring out the sequence that a disc mower needs to be attached. I certainly have not hooked them all up, but I never had the trouble that some others talk about.

Regards, Mike


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## Tx Jim (Jun 30, 2014)

r82230 said:


> As far as baler's, I would suggest being a little more color blind, there are some good yellow & red balers out there, that might not come with the more expensive green paint.  In any case, if you can possibly avoid balers that have seen cornstalks, it may behoove you to do so.
> 
> Larry


IMHO there are reasons JD rd balers bring a lot money other than the price of the paint.


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## Trillium Farm (Dec 18, 2014)

I would defer the moco purchase if money is tight. Mowing is fast comparing to baling and IMO it's easier ti find someone to mow than to bale when it's needed as long as you can tell them if the fields are clean of rocks & gopher holes.


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## Tx Jim (Jun 30, 2014)

When it comes to rd baling I can bales twice as many acres per hour as my cutter can cut with a 9 ft cutter. Granted most of the fields are rough so 6 MPH is about max speed. I rake three 9' swaths so that lowers my baling time required. Number of bales per acre would also influence baling time required.


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## r82230 (Mar 1, 2016)

Tx Jim said:


> When it comes to rd baling I can bales twice as many acres per hour as my cutter can cut with a 9 ft cutter. Granted most of the fields are rough so 6 MPH is about max speed. I rake three 9' swaths so that lowers my baling time required. Number of bales per acre would also influence baling time required.


With level fields, cutting is faster HERE with a 4 x5 baler, a push (almost even in time) with a 5x5 baler. Cutting at 10 MPH, baling at around 8 MPH (RB, ss baling at 2-3 MPH).

Larry


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## Tx Jim (Jun 30, 2014)

r82230 said:


> With level fields, cutting is faster HERE with a 4 x5 baler, a push (almost even in time) with a 5x5 baler. Cutting at 10 MPH, baling at around 8 MPH (RB, ss baling at 2-3 MPH).
> 
> Larry


Do you rake or just bale windrows? What is your average bales per acre. Down here in semi-arid Coastal fields 2-3 bales 4X5.5 is about average with a few exceptions


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## Ray450 (May 23, 2019)

So, any comment on the 12' for a 6105E? What size cutter and style would you suggest for a 6105E, lots of obstacles to negotiate with a novice operator. Probably just cutting 100 aces the next two seasons and could upgrade later if I start picking up more hay fields.

https://dallas.craigslist.org/dal/grd/d/bonham-massey-ferguson-1372-hay-cutter/7016313857.html

I'm starting to think for now, maybe a 9' 3pt mounted might be the way to get back on budget. Something like this?

https://dallas.craigslist.org/dal/grd/d/bonham-massey-ferguson-1372-hay-cutter/7016313857.html

I might go to a couple used tractor/attachments places and just look around and compare today. I was also mainly asking about checking the hours on a baler, because I'm considering going to a auction Friday that has a 469 and a 469SS , but doesn't list hours. I assume they will probably be outa my range, so I'm not sure I want to make the drive. Unless I find a great deal on something, probably waiting until after new years to buy anything else.


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## Tx Jim (Jun 30, 2014)

Does 6105E have 1000 rpm pto shaft?


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## Ray450 (May 23, 2019)

Tx Jim said:


> Does 6105E have 1000 rpm pto shaft?


yes


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## r82230 (Mar 1, 2016)

Tx Jim said:


> Do you rake or just bale windrows? What is your average bales per acre. Down here in semi-arid Coastal fields 2-3 bales 4X5.5 is about average with a few exceptions


Around a 3 - 5 x 5 bales per acre average with 1st cutting (equating to about 3.75 of 4 x 5 bales per acre). Or another way to look at it, about 8 acres per hour in an efficient field and can cut about 8 acres per hour (in an efficient field, using a 9' 3" discbine). Whereas with ss bales, same windrow about 4 acres per hour. I don't rake for just one type of baling (RB or SS), but rake for the option to bale either or both.

Everything tedded, so I put about 9' of hay in each windrow with 1st cutting, more in later cuttings (thanks to double rotary rake). Doubling up heavier 1st cutting, is always conducive to curing hay up here in MY area.

Larry


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## r82230 (Mar 1, 2016)

Ray450 said:


> So, any comment on the 12' for a 6105E? What size cutter and style would you suggest for a 6105E, lots of obstacles to negotiate with a novice operator. Probably just cutting 100 aces the next two seasons and could upgrade later if I start picking up more hay fields.
> 
> https://dallas.craigslist.org/dal/grd/d/bonham-massey-ferguson-1372-hay-cutter/7016313857.html


Seven years young (old), flail type machines are cheaper than rolls (here anyhow). I'd say looks like a fair price, I was just offered $11K trade in value on a 10 year old 9' 3" roll conditioning machine. An a 11' 6" cut new machine is right around $31K (roll conditioning). One major difference is they are different shades of red. 

As far as the 6105, IDK, the HP, but if you are north of 90 PTO, you should be a go, 100+ HP would my vote for ponies in front of this machine.

Larry


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## chevytaHOE5674 (Mar 14, 2015)

I mow with 125pto HP in front of the same mower and it's a good fit. Same mower behind 105hp and I have to drop gears. I can actually cover the same or more ground with a 9 foot mower than the 12 foot behind the 105hp tractor.


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## Vol (Jul 5, 2009)

I also can bale about twice what I can mow in many instances. (10 foot mower). Now in the river bottoms, I can lay it down pretty fast because it is smooth and flat. But my uplands are painfully slow mowing, but I can use a wheel rake on them with the round baler.

Regards, Mike


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## Ray450 (May 23, 2019)

Deere shows 89 PTO @ 2100rpm, Nebraska tested at 93 @ 2200 rpm, tractor is 10,500# without a loader. I also have the HD hitch/drawbar, tested at 7300# @ 24" behind. Lowest HP in 6 series, they have 105, 120 and 135, so there's probably more in there. I also have the 24f/12R tranny. Here's a couple pics if I've done this right. Other than backing it off the trailer, I have 0 time on it so far. If I can get a leak figured out tomorrow on my CTL, I'm hoping to get to play around a little and move some hay outa the fields (all of mine was moved out months ago, and sold, and gone, my hay guy still has about 100 out there after I helped him stack up about 150 of his).

"As far as the 6105, IDK, the HP, but if you are north of 90 PTO, you should be a go, 100+ HP would my vote for ponies in front of this machine. Larry"


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## JD3430 (Jan 1, 2012)

Looks brand new! Are the tires filled? Looks light out back for a loader tractor.


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## paoutdoorsman (Apr 23, 2016)

Looks good Ray450. Which model Mitas tire are those front and rear?


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## Ray450 (May 23, 2019)

Mitas AC85, don't know anything about them other than size and that they are radials. I don't think they are filled, it wasn't on the original options list, but it has a radio and that wasn't on there, so dealer added options might not have been on it.


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## clowers (Feb 11, 2011)

Nice RIG congratulations


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## paoutdoorsman (Apr 23, 2016)

Ray450 said:


> Mitas AC85, don't know anything about them other than size and that they are radials. I don't think they are filled, it wasn't on the original options list, but it has a radio and that wasn't on there, so dealer added options might not have been on it.


I have a set of them on the rear of a JD 6420. They were on it when I bought it. The fronts on that tractor are mismatched and very worn, which is why I was curious if they were AC85's all around on yours. My rears have been fine, but they seem extra tall for the size. My drawbar is higher than I like for small square baler on that tractor which puts the wagon hitch in the dirt too often on the slightest grade change. Congrats again on a beautiful rig.


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## Gearclash (Nov 25, 2010)

paoutdoorsman said:


> Looks good Ray450. Which model Mitas tire are those front and rear?


Mitas tires on the front of a loader tractor . . . if you are doing heavy loader work make sure those fronts have at least the maximum allowable pressure in them, if you are bold and daring run them 5 psi over the max pressure . . . I had a set of Mitas tires on the front of my loader tractor . . . overloading and flexing killed them long before the tread was wore down.


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## JD3430 (Jan 1, 2012)

paoutdoorsman said:


> I have a set of them on the rear of a JD 6420. They were on it when I bought it. The fronts on that tractor are mismatched and very worn, which is why I was curious if they were AC85's all around on yours. My rears have been fine, but they seem extra tall for the size. My drawbar is higher than I like for small square baler on that tractor which puts the wagon hitch in the dirt too often on the slightest grade change. Congrats again on a beautiful rig.


If your drawbar is too high, you can get a step-down draw bar. I have both for 2 of my tractors.


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## paoutdoorsman (Apr 23, 2016)

JD3430 said:


> If your drawbar is too high, you can get a step-down draw bar. I have both for 2 of my tractors.


It does have reversible step down/step up draw bar as original equipment which I run in the step down position. I was actually thinking of building a custom equal angle hitch this winter with a drop built into it to level the baler out when running on this tractor.


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## dvcochran (Oct 1, 2017)

Ray450 said:


> It has 16-17k bales, I assume it comes with a monitor. I've asked twice but he didn't answer that question. I've discovered you can't ever ask more than one question at a time, because you almost only ever get one of them answered. Anyway, it does look pretty clean. But, I'm hoping to get back on budget since I went almost $3k over on the tractor. Really hoping to find a lower bale count unit under $15k. One of the salesman I dealt with on the tractor thinks he has a nice 6k bale baler coming in that would sell for about what this one is listed for, but he also said the outside of it looks pretty rough. Seems like I've seen some at auction going between $10k and $16k, but most don't list the bale #. Is there a way to power up the monitors without hooking them up, of knowing the actual bale count?


You should be able to connect the monitor to the baler and apply temporary and it power up fine. I think you will get errors if you just try to power up the monitor. Hopefully someone else will chime in to correct me.

I am in middle TN and can say with certainty you will not find a 469 net wrap with <10k bales in the $15k price range. Unless it is stolen. A 468? Maybe, but I would really, really have to check it out.

Out or curiosity I checked Tractorhouse in Tennessee; 2010 458 $20k, 2009 458 $15k, 2008 458 $22.5k, 2016 459 $19k, 2014 459 $32.5k. It is all about the series (e, s, etc....)and features.

Hopefully it is different in Texas but I would like to know how if it really is.


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## Ray450 (May 23, 2019)

dvcochran said:


> You should be able to connect the monitor to the baler and apply temporary and it power up fine. I think you will get errors if you just try to power up the monitor. Hopefully someone else will chime in to correct me.
> 
> I am in middle TN and can say with certainty you will not find a 469 net wrap with <10k bales in the $15k price range. Unless it is stolen. A 468? Maybe, but I would really, really have to check it out.
> 
> ...


Ok, I went to a auction yesterday and they had several 469s, but only gave a bale count for one, I was hoping for a way to check the bale count when I'm checking them out at the auction. I'm not sure i'll buy a baler from auction, just seems too risky for me, not knowing enough about them. I'd rather pay extra and get one I can run and test a little. They had one that was very low bales, it was also very bent. I'm assuming it was on it's side at one point, it had new panels, smaller panels missing, but you could tell the whole thing was bent and twisted, it sold for $17k I think. And yes, the one the dealer said he was taking in on trade was not a 469, I think it was a 467 or 468, which is what I figured I'd end up getting. I did buy a global pallet fork at the auction, and almost pulled the trigger on a Kubota 9' disc mower that sold for $5,200, I thought I'd buy the Deere 285 10' mower, but it seemed really worn out to me, and it still sold for a little over $6k. I had a old guy that was there show me some things to look for on these. I'm a little more confident on buying the cutter than baler at auction. I left before they sold the last 469, it was going to be hours before it came up, I assume it was consignment since it was at the end after all the junk. I was interested, but a guy that was looking at it showed me a few things and said it had baled closer to 25k bales. Looked abut the same to me as the one with 15k, but both seemed a little more worn than what I want. Should I be scared of this one? https://www.auctiontime.com/listings/farm-equipment/auctions/online/188833801/krone-vario-pack-1800mc I did some research, the metal elevators rather than the usual belts is interesting.


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## Trillium Farm (Dec 18, 2014)

Ray450 said:


> Should I be scared of this one? https://www.auctiontime.com/listings/farm-equipment/auctions/online/188833801/krone-vario-pack-1800mc I did some research, the metal elevators rather than the usual belts is interesting.


It is always hard to say as one doesn't know if the picture represents the actual baler, but in general Krone makes very good implements.


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## Tx Jim (Jun 30, 2014)

Ray450

IMHO I much rather buy a used rd baler than a used disc cutter at auction. I agree that you made a wise decision on not bidding on bent/twisted rd baler


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## dvcochran (Oct 1, 2017)

I agree with Tx Jim. You can see pretty much everything on a baler but not a disc mower.

Disclosure; I am a Krone fan. I have owned 3 disc mowers over the years. Two were belt driven and they were bullet proof. One I still use for mowing around our ponds and ditch banks. I had a shaft driven mower that gave trouble in the drivetrain. I now run a green Kuhn (JD).

I also had an older Krone baler (KR250). Three years old when I got it but never had a for sure way to know how many bales it had on it. Very simple balers to run. They make a bale completely opposite of a belt roller, outside-in versus inside-out. The result is what is commonly called a soft core bale. Less dense, but usually more pallatable for some animals.

When I first got the baler I had to replace the bar chains because they had stretched and were out of time from each other. Caused all kind of weird problems. They are a PITA to change. The cross bars are not hard to change but will wear out.

For me, it was not an ideal baler, but we used it as the primary baler at one location for 3 years with very little trouble after the initial repairs, the twine start can be a PITA at times. It is still parked in the barn. I would pull it out if in a pinch.

The big 'problem' for me was tonnage of hay per storage area. In other words, I had about 15% - 20% less hay taking up the same footprint of storage area. I cannot tolerate that so I went back to a belt baler.

I cannot speak to the newer Krone rollers. Since they are called Vario-Pak, maybe the density can be changed more that the older balers.


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## jettex (Jul 5, 2018)

So Ray450 I was reading your post and then saw it was last year. I am baling hay for myself and was wondering when you said your baler got 150 bales? Is that per cutting, because I live west of Ft. Worth and we get less rain. I got 4 cuttings last year and averaged about 2.5 to 3 bales per acre. I fertilize between each cutting and use weed killer. Keep me updated on your progress. I want to upgrade myself. Looking at a 5075E with a loader. Watch Youtube and see what others are using.


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## dvcochran (Oct 1, 2017)

Ray450 said:


> Might go look at a couple tractors Monday and Tuesday.
> 
> JD 5085M 712 hours cab/loader auction ( +awesome tractor, but I already have a 60 PTO hp tractor, and I'm not sure this will be big enough, I'd prefer 90-110 PTO HP and 34 or 38 rears for my rough pastures). (Went and looked, super nice, just afraid it won't be quite big enough in PTO hp at times and wish it had bigger tires. only issue was rear electric 3pt control didn't work, and these M models always sell for so much more.)
> 
> ...


I have 3 haying tractors we use for haying and one is a Kubota M9000 2wd. It is by far a smoother ride than the JD 6120 2wd or the NH TN90 4wd. By comparison the JD rides rough. I will have to check to see what the rear tire size is. Tractordata.com says 24's which is Way off (34's maybe). To me a big advantage for a 2wd when haying is maneuverability. Much better than the 4wd. I like the Kubota loader much better than the other two tractors who both have factory loaders. I agree that the JD air conditioner blower is superior to the Kubota but if the Kub system is working properly you will stay comfortable. FWIW, I took the tint off the windows of my Kubota because I could not see at/near dark. Plus I hate the glare when tinted windows get dusty.

There are basic things that are better about the JD but ride is not one of them. Some of the cab components seem more robust on the JD but the roof liner started falling out at about 1,000 hours. The shifting maybe a little smoother but the JD does not have shuttle or a reverser. That sucks when loading hay. The NH has the smoothest clutch and softest seat.

We are in TN where the winters are not too rough but the rain has been a Big problem the last few years. Feeding with the 2wd's can be a little 'harder' sometimes but I have never been stuck. Yet.


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## Ray450 (May 23, 2019)

jettex said:


> So Ray450 I was reading your post and then saw it was last year. I am baling hay for myself and was wondering when you said your baler got 150 bales? Is that per cutting, because I live west of Ft. Worth and we get less rain. I got 4 cuttings last year and averaged about 2.5 to 3 bales per acre. I fertilize between each cutting and use weed killer. Keep me updated on your progress. I want to upgrade myself. Looking at a 5075E with a loader. Watch Youtube and see what others are using.


That was just what he still had out there, total he baled about 300-330 bales, one cutting, probably did about 80-90 acres. I had to shred areas he didn't want to get into. I think I can get about 500 bales, cutting about 100 acres, and then getting the front 20-30 acres one more time if not 3 times.

I got the tractor and a baler now, still looking for a cutter and rake.









One of the guards was bent pretty bad and the back tab was broke off it, so I welded it back, and am replacing the pick-up chain, guard (trying on of the plastic guards), two idler gears, about 10 pick-up tines, and got the monitor and extinguisher mounted and everything greased, oiled and set-up as best I can for now. Trying to decide between a 9' or 10' mounted cutter, or a 10'-12' trailed, or trailed with a tine conditioner. I'm leaning towards trying to find a used 10' mounted to save some money and have better maneuverability, but not a lot out there right now. Skipped the auction today as the cutters looked pretty bad, so I might go look at some tomorrow or Monday. If I can't find a good deal on a nice unit, I might just buy a new mounted 9' cutter, but no point in getting the warranty running until time to use it. I started a new thread since this one was titled "tractor" and that part of the search is over.


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## hosspuller (Aug 27, 2009)

I have two tractors, both with the same size tires. One has fluid loaded tires and other air only. The filled tires ride much rougher than air only.


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