# New Holland BR7060 electrical problems



## BZBFARM (Jul 13, 2016)

My husband bought a used nhbr7060 with almost 15,000 bales through it. It started doing odd things a few weeks ago while in operation, first it was wrapping the twine all throughout the bale, then not cutting the twine from bale to bale (was not happy to have to run 4 miles up the street curting twine out of trees from one field to another) then it stopped extending and retracting thr net wrap. So...over a thousand dollars in parts and service charges later, still no progress. We bought a new computer for it, new bale command monitor and had to put a new alternator in the tractor, it powered up once, beeped and died, now it won't even power up. We have been through the entire wiring harness, found where it has power and ground, fixed the tractor voltage issue so now have isolated it to the bailer but we've hit a brick wall. The dealer who has been out to look at it twice (moron didn't even bring tools with him) he has no idea, and just wants to throw parts at it. I fear that even if I spend another 700 plus dollars on a harness, it still won't fix the computer problem. Anyone out there experience a similar issue? Can anyone please tell me where to find a good wiring harness diagram (one showing what each wire does)? The one from the manual does not show this. Any help would be greatly appreciated. I am about ready to leave it out front for the repo men as I fear it's not worth the investment/aggervation. Thank you in advance.


----------



## Gearclash (Nov 25, 2010)

Stay tuned for a response from mike10. Is your wire harness connected directly to the tractor battery?


----------



## BZBFARM (Jul 13, 2016)

He has tested it both completely plugged in/hooked up to the tractor while running and connected directly to the battery, before the new computer, it would extend, but not retract net and we were able to find the burnt out part in the computer. Now after installing new computer nothing either way.


----------



## mike10 (May 29, 2011)

Since I am not familiar with your operation some of what I will suggest may not apply. Let's start with the easy stuff and work from there. You have several problems and some are not related to the electrical system on the baler.

I am attaching two files on troubleshooting the power and ground circuits. We will start here since this is the most likely where the problem is.

Things to check. If you are running an older John Deere with a 24V electrical system you need to make sure it is attached to the tractor properly so only 12V is going to the baler. Anything over 16v will shut the system down.

On the back of the controller, on the baler, is a relay. Depending on the age of the baler there will either be one large relay or two small relays. One attached file is for the one large relay and the second is for the two small relays. One thing about the system that uses one large relay, they have a tendency not to turn the system on. Generally you will hear a click and see a dull light on the operators panel but no information on the screen. If this is the case then take a wrench and tap the relay and see if the system will come on.

Push lightly against the pins and sockets at the baler to tractor connector to make sure they do not push out and then not make connection.

This is enough to start with.


----------



## BZBFARM (Jul 13, 2016)

Thank you, that is VERY helpful information and my mechanic is off to try this. My concern is that they screwed around with the harness enough that it's no longer any good (they cut off the protective coating and probably broke things). Further. I'm concerned that by cross checking and attemting to eliminate relays, they may have damaged the new computer and monitor, because now, when hooked to the battery it does nothing, where before, it atleast lit up the monitor. It is hooked up to and used with a Case 1086 if that matters. This baler is older, it uses the single, larger relay. Funny thing is, when he first bought it, it had troubles powering up the system, it would click but not work and a new monitor did not fix it (as dealer suggested) but it seemed to just fix itself. I wish I had known about the relay problem that you mentioned. Maybe I'll get lucky and it will burn itself up and I can start over with a different one.


----------



## mike10 (May 29, 2011)

Do not be disheartened, this is just a machine. If the controller and operators panel were new and the dealership did the work, then the dealership should fix or replace the parts if they are indeed defective. You don't need a new harness, you just need someone who knows what they are doing. The easiest way to see if the controller or operators panel is defective is to find a friend with a BR baler and just plug your parts into their baler. The operators panel can be tried even on an older baler such as the "4" and "8" series, such as 664, 688. Essentially any bale command baler since 1996 will accept your operators panel. The controller does need to be tried on a BR baler because of the power supply is slightly different between the balers. Even the Case equivelent balers will work.


----------



## mike10 (May 29, 2011)

Do not replace the single large relay with another large relay. NH has a relay kit to replace the single relay with the double relay. The single large relay will still be used but only as a junction block.


----------



## mike10 (May 29, 2011)

You can also put your old controller and operators panel on to see if that makes a difference since you replaced the panel because the relay was not activating.


----------



## BZBFARM (Jul 13, 2016)

So...bypassed the relay to no avail. Found a burned up part in the computer, which is why we replaced it. Neither control module works either. I'm stumped


----------



## mike10 (May 29, 2011)

Did you follow the troubleshooting information to the end? Did you have power and ground where indicated? You need to be systematic when you are checking electrical problems are you are just going to get more frustrated.

If they were jumping around relays, it is possible they inadvertently shorted something out in the controller. If you replaced the operators panel just because is was not coming on, the original operators panel should still be OK.

Unless they also shorted the original controller when checking the problem, and since the relay did click, I would connect the original controller and the original operators panel to the system. If the relay clicked before it should still work to see if the original operators panel will come on or at least see if the relay clicks. If the relay clicks tap on the relay a couple of times and the relay should make connection.


----------



## luke strawwalker (Jul 31, 2014)

Reminds me why I NEVER intend to buy a computerized baler... nothing but trouble.

Thanks and good luck! OL J R


----------



## Tx Jim (Jun 30, 2014)

luke strawwalker said:


> Reminds me why I NEVER intend to buy a computerized baler... nothing but trouble.
> 
> Thanks and good luck! OL J R


Not all computer controlled or printed circuit board with relays equiped balers give trouble.


----------



## mike10 (May 29, 2011)

The balers in our area are probably 10 bale command to 1 mechanical unit. For the number of bale command units in the field in our area the problems are less than the mechanical units. The bale command system is extremely reliable and is a fairly simple system to work with. The problem comes in, like anything else, is some people do not have the knowledge base to correctly diagnose a problem. In this situation a slight tap to the relay would have turned on the operators panel. The twine issue is a mechanical problem and not electrical.

Poor tractor electrical systems are the most common cause for controller failures. That is why it is important when you have the baler in the dealers shop to have the latest software installed which protects the controller in cases of tractor problems. The controller and operators panel have been used since 1996. In that time I have probably had less the 5 controller failures. One I caused because I shorted out a wire, One because I repeatedly told the customer his tractor was not putting out the voltage needed, and a couple where an inferior relay had been installed at the factory. All were repairable. I can sum up the majority of the problems with the bale command system as follows.

The bale will not tie automatically, Someone switched the auto/manual button to manual.

The operators panel will not come on, tap the relay and then install the update kit when time.

The net duckbill is not moving and applying net, Some one switched the system to twine.

The bale command operators panel shuts off, The tractor is overcharging and the system will shut down at 16v. To get in a dig at Jim, this is mainly a John Deere tractor problem with Delco alternators.

Very seldom do I need to make a service call on the bale command system. The vast majority of problems can be handled over the phone.

Now if you talk about the can bus systems on the newer baler you are dealing with a completely different animal.


----------



## PaMike (Dec 7, 2013)

Mike,

When was the last software update? Mine is a 2008 model..How do I tell what software version it has?

For guys that don't like electronics they ought to use an autowrap baler that is worn out and has linkage that sticks, and malfunctions. That might change their mind about electronics...


----------



## BZBFARM (Jul 13, 2016)

When he bought the bailer, it had an issue with powering up, the relay clicked, but did not power up,the monitor in the cab was all burned out, coukdnt read screen and some buttons did not work, so we bought a new monitor and everything worked fine. (I realize now the monitor and relay were two seperate issues ocurring coincidently) Ladt week when all of this trouble started after it got lent out and ran in pouring rain , after following all of the troubleshooting instructions in the manual we took the computer out on the advice of the stumped mechanic. Found a broken/burnt out spot on the computer (I do not know what the part that was broken is called but I can find out if it matters). We installed the new computer, everything powered up fine, drove to the field, hit power button...nothing. Tapping the relay doesnt work, bypassing doesn't work, nothing. He went through the troubleshooting guide, checked grounds, bypassed things, hooked it directly to battery, even unwrapped wiring harness to check for broken wites, but nothing, he bypassed the relay thought to be causing the issue to no avail. He is hesitant to bring it back to the dealers first because he has not finished paying off the previous bill (hesitant to pay over 860.00 for no answers and the fact the guy did not even bring tools/volt tester) and secondly, there is a wait to get it looked at and once brought there, I cannot have it back until I pay the entire bill, which will take a while (while racking up storage fees) while I am losing my shirt over lost custom work wages, lost hay/feed (have to feed cows somwthing) and now I am losing time on good haying weather windows. I cannot even afford the monthly payment on the darned thing since wasting money on parts and losing work. Now since directly hooking it to the battery produces nothing, I fear they blew up the new parts.


----------



## PaMike (Dec 7, 2013)

It sounds like you need to take it to a NEW HOLLAND dealer. Forget some "mechanic" that doesn't know what he is doing. Go to a NH dealer that sells hay equipment. You might have to go a ways to find one, but it will be cheaper in the long run. Most dealerships have financing firms they work with to help out with the bill...

Looks like Kahn Equipment is a dealer that is only 12 miles away...I would be towing that baler down to them ASAP....


----------



## luke strawwalker (Jul 31, 2014)

Tx Jim said:


> Not all computer controlled or printed circuit board with relays equiped balers give trouble.


Enough do and the trouble is expensive enough and hard enough to deal with that I know I don't want one...

I can operate a baler just fine manually-- don't need no friggin' computer to do it for me. And I SURE don't want to RELY on one for the baler to even flippin' work...

I know they probably serve a purpose for mega-operators running flat out all day every day baling thousands or tens of thousands of bales a year. For the smaller operator, though, it's just unnecessary complexity and expense that makes a ton of money for the companies and dealerships.

I'll stick with a manual baler...

Later! OL J R


----------



## mike10 (May 29, 2011)

PaMike said:


> Mike,
> When was the last software update? Mine is a 2008 model..How do I tell what software version it has?


Press and hold the open book button until the alarm sounds. The open book button is right below the on/off button. You should then see a 1 on the left side of the screen and a number on the right side that corresponds to the diameter of the bale you have selected. Press and release the open book and the left number will increment up to 2. Continue to press and release the open book key until you see a "c" displayed. It is somewhere around item 20. Along with the "c" is a number, in your case it probably is a 7. The latest version is 8. While version 7 gave additional protection to the controller, version 8 will cut the power and display a batt warning on the operators panel if the voltage drops below a certain level. This is to keep from burning something up in the controller.


----------



## BZBFARM (Jul 13, 2016)

Kahn is the one I have been having trouble with...why we're looking into this on our own.


----------



## mike10 (May 29, 2011)

You can still use the baler but it will be a little inconvient but at least you can get baling. If you look at the harness on the tractor you will find a switch. This switch is used to bypass all the bale command system. Up by the controller in the side chaqnnel where the harness is tied is a bundle of wires with a connector on the end. You will need to unplug the actuator you want to use from the bale command system and plug the connector from the bundled wire harness into it. Now you can use the switch in the tractor harness to extend and retract the actuator so you can wrap or tie the bale. Since the operators panel in not working you will not know what size bale you have. but if you watch the tension cylinder arm you can roughly judge the size of the bale. Not a perfect solution but it will work.

You never did say if you followed the information I attached or what the results were. Do not bypass anything, that is a sure way to short something out, believe my I know.


----------



## Dan wheeler (Oct 14, 2016)

My new holland 658 round baler has had the deutsch plug ripped off, the one which plugs into bale command plus box.
I bought a new plug and pins but have no idea where they go.
Can anyone help as I am at wits end!


----------



## rjmoses (Apr 4, 2010)

mike10 said:


> . I can sum up the majority of the problems with the bale command system as follows.
> 
> The bale will not tie automatically, Someone switched the auto/manual button to manual.
> 
> ...


I get a number of calls from neighbors to help with their NH baler problems and Mike's list is on the money!

To add just a couple more that come to mind:

Net wrap routed incorrectly (including one were the roll was put in upside down).

Dirt/ash/crud built up on the actuator mechanisms to the point it can't extend/retract full (predominant in alfalfa).

Duck bill can't extend fully because of loose grass accumulated in the upper deck (Done this one myself!)

Tractor to baler connector not fully seated.

Control panel, especially bale size, fat-fingered.

Bale size not calibrated.

And these are a few of the things that people have called me on that I can handle.

Ralph


----------



## rjmoses (Apr 4, 2010)

Dan wheeler said:


> My new holland 658 round baler has had the deutsch plug ripped off, the one which plugs into bale command plus box.
> I bought a new plug and pins but have no idea where they go.
> Can anyone help as I am at wits end!


Call your NH dealer shop manager--they should be able to get you a chart of the color code/pin assignments. If the pins are like mine, I would suggest you get a new connector with pins and rebuild it completely. Sometimes a wire will get broken inside the insulation such that it looks fine but isn't.

Hope this helps.

Ralph


----------



## mike10 (May 29, 2011)

Attached is the wiring diagram. You will notice there are no color codes on the wires. The wires have numbers inprinted on the insulation. The problem with this is you will probably not be able to read any of the numbers outside the outer cover of the harness. You have two choices, peel the cover off the harness until you can find the numbers, or use an ohm meter to check continutiy on each wire to place it correctly.

If you decide to peel the cover off the harness, be careful handling the wires. The imprinted numbers are easily removed by handling the wires. The deutsch connectors require special tools to remove the pins from the connector so you want to be sure you have them in the correct position.


----------



## Porkchopsnf1937 (Oct 3, 2020)

I moved our monitor from a 4840 to 8330 having trouble with monitor turning on I went to the power strip is this not enough or do I have to go back to the starter like the 4840


----------



## Gearclash (Nov 25, 2010)

Go straight to the battery. Regardless of tractor model or brand or baler model or brand.


----------



## mike10 (May 29, 2011)

You definitely need to go to the battery or starter, but only for the operation of the actuators. The power strip will supply enough power to turn the monitor on.

It is a common problem on BR balers, but since you leave the impression this is the first time it has happened you need to check your connections and make sure the locking rings on the connectors are locking in place. Make sure you have a good ground source and you have 12v at the power strip. Do not take anything for granted.

If all that checks out, then go to my pinned thread, My NH Repair etc, at the top of the machinery forum. Scroll down the first post to the link to the post about the monitor not turning on.


----------



## Porkchopsnf1937 (Oct 3, 2020)

That what I did and it worked


----------



## mlappin (Jun 25, 2009)

luke strawwalker said:


> Reminds me why I NEVER intend to buy a computerized baler... nothing but trouble.
> 
> Thanks and good luck! OL J R


O

Only ever had one issue with my Bale Command and that was partly mechanical in nature. Zip tie broke and the plug on the net counter wheel got smashed just enough when installing a new roll of net to cause an issue internally in the plug but not look damaged externally. If the zip strap didn't break, would never had an issue with it other than the one time a bad connection on the alternator was causing an overcharge condition and the controller shut it self off. Leave all the lights on with the AC on and blower on high and finished till I got a new alternator plug.


----------



## Tx Jim (Jun 30, 2014)

luke strawwalker said:


> Enough do and the trouble is expensive enough and hard enough to deal with that I know I don't want one...
> 
> I can operate a baler just fine manually-- don't need no friggin' computer to do it for me. And I SURE don't want to RELY on one for the baler to even flippin' work...
> 
> Later! OL J R


Luke

The same could be stated about vehicles with electric operated starters vs hand crank, AC, power steering, auto trans, elect operated windows but with me being disabled I think I'll take a chance on keeping these necessities for me operating so I can drive out to check my livestock!!!! 

Now my current rd baler has baled about 27,000 bales & previous model 30,000 bales with """no major friggin' computer problems""" & I'll be danged if I want to return to the days of having a "crick in my neck" at night!! 

My old worn out electronically controlled baler baled 66 bales yesterday without a hiccup!!! YMMV


----------

