# Pacer Pumps



## Mferguson3525 (Oct 20, 2011)

Has anyone rebuilt a pacer transfer pump. The impeller on mine is wore out. How do you stop the shaft from turning???


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## mlappin (Jun 25, 2009)

Usually we need seals in one before ever wearing an impeller out.

Take the shroud off the motor and stick a screwdriver in one of the air blades on the flywheel.

If you have the slotted bolt holding your impeller on and it's had 28% N thru it, good luck.


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## Blue Duck (Jun 4, 2009)

What I do is buy a new one every two or three years and take the old one to the consignment sale. If they look good and run they bring close to half price of a new one. I figure it cost me around $50 a year to do this but it is worth it to me to not have an old pump die when I need it the most.


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## Gearclash (Nov 25, 2010)

If you wore the impeller out I will guess you ran sand or gravel though it. Those Pacer pumps don't tolerate any grit. If the impeller is bad have a look at the volute also, as that will be half your problem if it is not pumping well.

In the fall of '10 we did a construction project that got us into the water table of a gravel/sand vein. We ran pumps 24/7. The Honda trash pump ran nonstop over a month without a problem, we rebuilt at least one Pacer and locked an engine on another (low oil), and had multiple irritations with the electric sump pumps.


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## mlappin (Jun 25, 2009)

Blue Duck said:


> What I do is buy a new one every two or three years and take the old one to the consignment sale. If they look good and run they bring close to half price of a new one. I figure it cost me around $50 a year to do this but it is worth it to me to not have an old pump die when I need it the most.


I like that ideal, I know if you catch them on sale you can buy the pump and motor for the same price as either the motor or pump separately.

Something else I found out Thursday night, I just refinished refilling the tanker trailer with 2000 gallons of water and was pumping that into one of our 2500 gallon storage tanks well after dark, the entire muffler was cherry red, motor was running fine but after I clicked the choke on two notches the motor still ran fine but the muffler cooled right off so only the end was cherry red, I blame this on those D*MN "california" carbs that can't be adjusted, they run lean to meet emission standards which is fine but in the last 5 years I've had two motors lock up for then no apparent reason, always stored inside and full of fresh clean oil. If they were running lean they either just overheated on a hot day or scored the cylinder from being lean.


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## Gearclash (Nov 25, 2010)

> I blame this on those D*MN "california" carbs that can't be adjusted, they run lean to meet emission standards


Yeah, tell me about it!
The other thing you would find out about these carbs is that the choke they do have is so neutered that they can't get enough gasoline to start at say 0* F or so. Pull the air filter, splash a little fuel in the carb, and they light up on the next pull.


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## haybaler101 (Nov 30, 2008)

Just buy one with a Honda engine. We have a Briggs on ours and it is a PIA to get started no matter what. The coop has Honda's on all of theirs, one pull of the rope and you are good to go, doesn't matter if the engine is hot or cold or the temp is hot or cold.


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