# New holland 650 twine arm adjustments



## newholland650 (Apr 20, 2015)

Okay I replaced the end of the twine arm because the ring had broke where the string goes through the end. After reinstalling the new arm somehow j guess the arms are out of adjustment. I have the belt off turning the wrapper drive by hand and the left arm is rubbing just under that bottom roller to the point it hangs up causing me to have to take the one bolt that holds that arm in and hammer the arm into the tube then the whole arm springs back to where it should be. When it gets to home position it stops to soon and not where it used to stop. Is there an adjustment for this? Thanks


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## newholland650 (Apr 20, 2015)

Also while I had the arm off I took off that pivot plate there with the spring and roller on it and cleaned it good because it would sometimes stick and cause the system to retie. Could that have something to do with the twine arms out of adjustment?


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## newholland650 (Apr 20, 2015)

Pictures of where they are rubbing


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## mike10 (May 29, 2011)

Nothing you did should change where the twine tubes stop in the home position. I am attaching a pdf of the twine tube setup showing which spacer is used where. If the spacers are in the wrong position or out of position it could cause both of your problems. If everything is in place then you can grab the end of the twine tube and pull down which will bend the mounting tab. Both twine arms need to be in thes same plane or you might have binding in the crossover linkage. Also check how the twine tubes cross the knife striker plate. Ideally the twine tube should be centered between the knife and the striker plate but as long as the twine tube clears both that is all that is required.


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## newholland650 (Apr 20, 2015)

Mike on the left twine are where that one bolt holds the tube that I replaced there is a spacer missing I think because the right side has 2 washers on the bolt a bushing in the hole and a larger spacer before it threads in the tube but the left side just has the 2 washers and the bushing but not the bigger spacer. Maybe that's the problem but don't remember seeing one before I took it off but maybe that's what broke the ring from rubbing. I will try it next few days and get back with you thank you mike


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## newholland650 (Apr 20, 2015)

After looking at the picture you sent me it appears there isn't a large spacer on that side and I may have the washer in the wrong spot. I will double check. Maybe it needs bent some too


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## mike10 (May 29, 2011)

When you read the information the left side is determined by standing behind the baler looking forward. If you are looking in from the front things are reversed. There is only one heavy spacer used and it is on the left twine arm, left being determined by standing behind the baler looking forward. The smaller diameter spacers are of two different lengths. The long one goes with the heavy spacer on the left twine arm. It gets a little confusing when you read the text especially when the right link attaches to the left twine arm and left link attaches to the right twine arm.


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## newholland650 (Apr 20, 2015)

Mike I looked at it after work and I have everything in correctly all spacers and washers and bushings. I tried to straighten it but couldn't do very much.the right arm if looking from rear of baler is still hanging up there close to the knife to the point I have to free it up to finish the cycle. Then when its finished it still doesn't make it to the full home position. My question is when I took off that pivot plate to clean it up did I somehow get the tying system out of time. I just don't see how all of the sudden it's hanging up when it used to work fine


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## mike10 (May 29, 2011)

Unless you removed the driven pulley and the clutch there is no way to get it out of time. The clutch does disengage, correct? When the clutch is disengaged, grab one of the twine tubes and pull towards you. There should be some rotational movement. I want to make sure there is still some rotation available once the clutch is disengaged.

Is the replacement tube the one giving problems? Did you check the replacement tube with the one you removed?

You could try loosening the bracket under the gearbox and see if you can tip the twine tube bracket down so the twine tube clears.


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## newholland650 (Apr 20, 2015)

newholland650 said:


> Yes the clutch disengages. When it disengages the black triangle on the twine indicator it on the t in cut when it used to always be on c but yea there is rotation in the arms once the clutch disengages. Quite a bit seems like. And yes I matched them up and they appear to be the same. Yes it's the replacement that's giving problems. But when both arms are into tying position in the center and if you get down under there you can see that the right arm if looking from rear of baler is cocked up while he left is cocked down some. The one cocked up is what's hitting there and the knife when it comes around unless I'm for king or down when it passes. It's got me confused


Yes the clutch disengages. When it disengages the black triangle on the twine indicator it on the t in cut when it used to always be on c but yea there is rotation in the arms once the clutch disengages. Quite a bit seems like. And yes I matched them up and they appear to be the same. Yes it's the replacement that's giving problems. But when both arms are into tying position in the center and if you get down under there you can see that the right arm if looking from rear of baler is cocked up while he left is cocked down some. The one cocked up is what's hitting there and the knife when it comes around unless I'm forcing it down when it passes. It's got me confused


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## mike10 (May 29, 2011)

The reason I had you rotate the arms is to make sure they were not binding somewhere. Take a look at the breakaway latch for the twine tubes and see if the latch is partially disengaged. The breakaway is the 3" tube you see sticking up or down in the center of the twine arm pivots. If you look at the drawing I attached earlier you will see it in the side view, the drawing on the right side of the page. At the top of the drawing and to the left you will see what looks like a short tube. That is the breakaway latch At the end of the tube is a plate, then there should be a plate attached to the twine tube pivot shaft and on the other side of pivot shaft plate should be another plate. All three plates should be in alignment when the latch is in place. If the latch is partially tripped the indicator will not move all the way to the end.

As for the tube sticking up, grab the end of the tube and pull down until the tube is in alignment with the other tube. You will not hurt anything by bending the mounting tab, just be sure the tube will clear the knife and knife striker plate.


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## newholland650 (Apr 20, 2015)

Okay I will check that next chance I get and see what happens. Thanks!


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## newholland650 (Apr 20, 2015)

I had a few mins before dark to look at the baler. I took a few photos of the breakaway position. I've never had it trip before but from what you described to me it looks to be not broke away maybe you can tell if it is or not from the pics. If not then I wonder what else to look into that would keep it from returning all the way to home. Thanks for all the help so far


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## mike10 (May 29, 2011)

Could not really see the breakaway latch, but I saw where the full bale alarm switch was not being depressed. The breakaway does not effect the full bale alarm activation arm.

Take some pictures of the drive side. The clutch paw when the pawl disengages, the pivot plate you removed, the knife linkage rods and springs, full bale alarm switch on the right side when the auto wrap declutches. and anything else on that side.

Will pulling down on the manual handle trip the auto wrap?

Is the other full bale alarm switch on the right side depressed when the auto wrap disengages?

What do the knife rod springs measure when the auto wrap disengages and is there a gap between the double 3/8" nuts and washers on the bottom side of the plate the rods go through?

The small spring on the plate you removed, is it stretched when the auto wrap is tripped?


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## newholland650 (Apr 20, 2015)

I'm off work today and got some pics of the drive side with clutch disengaged and engaged. Does that little spring on pivot plate look right and it does trip with the the manual lever and no the full bale alarm are not hitting. Seems like you also have to turn the big pulley a lot further before the twine arms start moving as well


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## mike10 (May 29, 2011)

The drive looks ok. The knives are fully closing and the switch is depressed so the drive portion has not changed. The drag link that attaches the twine tubes to the drive is attached to the pivot with the arm to depress the other switch that was shown in the other photos. That pivot shaft has a roller on it which rolls along the cam and which moves the arms. It appears in the last set of photos that the roller is there. I would still take a look at the roller to make sure it is running against the cam.

After you trip the auto wrap and start to turn the pulley, watch the arm which depresses the other switch shown in the earlier photos and see if it moves towards the switch. It should not.


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## newholland650 (Apr 20, 2015)

Yes the roller does appear to be running against the plate and when you trip the lever that arm moves away from the switch then as the arms start moving it comes back toward the switch but never fully makes it. I took some more pics. I have the twine arm off in last few pics just so it doesn't hang up as I turn


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## mike10 (May 29, 2011)

Everything looks as it should. The breakaway is in place. Did you do any adjustment to the tie rod? When the twine tubes drop there should be a couple of inches between them at the bottom. Adjust the tie rod to get some clearance between the tubes. Since you have been all over the center mechanism, you will see a round collar which has a set screw in it. This collar is used when you reset the twine tubes if they break away. When you adjust the tie rod the collar will get closer to the linkage. Loosen the set screw and rotate the collar out of the way if it hits the linkage. After the tie rod is adjusted then move the collar back into place with about an 1/8" gap between the collar and linkage when the twine tubes are in the home position.

Loosen the set screw on the bale alarm arm and rotate the arm so it depresses the switch when in the home position.

Grab hold of the high twine tube and pull down so it clears.


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## newholland650 (Apr 20, 2015)

No I did not do any adjusting and I noticed that there is not much clearance at all when they drop to center. Actually they are touching. I will adjust it Sunday. To get to the jam nuts on that tie rod to make it easier do you remove that big sheild that's kinda in the way above it? It's the one that if your standing looking down in the baler its bolted behind the twine box?


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## mike10 (May 29, 2011)

I sat down tonight to look things over better. I put together a file showing my thinking. I have determined that you will not be able to pull down on the twine tube for it to clear the roll. On the 5ft wide machines it is easily done, but not on the 4 ft machines. At the end is a parts diagram of the parts I want you to check.

View attachment Microsoft Word - Autowrap Twine Tubes not Traveling Far Enough.pdf


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## newholland650 (Apr 20, 2015)

First pic is of the break


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## mike10 (May 29, 2011)

Trying to remember if the gearbox is mounted to the same support which is broke loose. That small opening in the weld would be enough to change the angle of the twine tube as it moves outward.


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