# Well that didn't take long. Minor diesel leak



## Hayjosh (Mar 24, 2016)

The Ford 4160 I picked up that many of you know about has been working like a top and I love the tractor. However today I noticed a very fine squirt of diesel coming from between the nut and banjo fitting on one of the injector lines going into the pump. I don't know how long it's been leaking but haven't noticed it before and would rather not drive it leaking for fear of starting a fire.

It's a really tall nut, takes a 9/16" wrench, and tightens down on the banjo fitting for the injector line going into the pump. It looks like there might be a washer in between them possibly? I put a mirror back there while it was running and this fine squirt of diesel was coming right from where that washer would be. I don't know much about anything on diesels which is one of the risks I knew I was signing up for when I bought a diesel.

Is there some kind of crush washer that goes in between there, or is this a flared fitting? If it's a washer, is it just a matter of replacing it with the right kind and then bleeding the air out of the pump and injector?

I've attached a pic. It leaks from the backside (block side) right between the nut and banjo fitting.


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## r82230 (Mar 1, 2016)

HayJosh,

One nice thing about diesel (IMHO) is it isn't so quick to catch fire like gas. But to your question, look at the attached parts diagram (I think I got the right one), you should be talking about maybe #33, #34 and #35 (about $25-$30 each). Perhaps line has split (don't ask how I may know that). :angry:

Larry


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## Wethay (Jul 17, 2015)

It looks like the nut secures a flared fitting and then just below it there is a banjo fitting that goes into the pump. The banjo fitting should have a sealing washer on both sides of it and the flared fitting just seals metal to metal. If the banjo fitting is leaking then a couple of new washers should be the fix. If it is the flared fitting it's either loose or the line is cracked at the flare. Clean it up, loosen the leaking connection, and inspect. When you reassemble there shouldn't be a need to bleed anything but the one line.


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## Hayjosh (Mar 24, 2016)

I should have clarified because you might be looking at the wrong nut. There's the brass nut in the center, that's NOT the leaking nut. The leaking nut is the wet blue nut, just below and a little to the left of the brass nut. The blue nut looks like it actually screws the banjo fitting to the pump, whereas the brass nut secures the fuel line to the banjo fitting.

However wethay (lol story of my life) mentioned washers for the banjo fitting.


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## thendrix (May 14, 2015)

Hayjosh said:


> I should have clarified because you might be looking at the wrong nut. There's the brass nut in the center, that's NOT the leaking nut. The leaking nut is the wet blue nut, just below and a little to the left of the brass nut. The blue nut looks like it actually screws the banjo fitting to the pump, whereas the brass nut secures the fuel line to the banjo fitting.
> 
> However wethay (lol story of my life) mentioned washers for the banjo fitting.


If the nut is leaking then it has to be the WET nut ????

Sorry I couldn't help it. You fellas continue. I'll be over here shutting the hell up


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## Hayjosh (Mar 24, 2016)

Yeah



thendrix said:


> If the nut is leaking then it has to be the WET nut
> 
> Sorry I couldn't help it. You fellas continue. I'll be over here shutting the hell up


LOLOL. I've learned to never assume everybody is looking at the same thing I'm looking at.


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## mlappin (Jun 25, 2009)

Roosamaster's and Bosch use pretty much what you describe. About the same thing as the front brake hoses on a vehicle. Banjo bolt, washer, banjo fitting, washer.

If possible and if they are available, get the copper clad steel washers instead of 100% steel. The steel washers are too hard to deform enough to fill any imperfections in either the banjo fitting or the pump while the copper on copper clad steel washers will. Been there done that.


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## SCtrailrider (May 1, 2016)

If there are copper washers between the banjo now you can remove them, heat red hot with a torch and re use them, heating them makes them soft again so they seal... over time they get hard and if they are some what loose they will leak...


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## Farmineer95 (Aug 11, 2014)

Just please don't put any fingers near a Diesel leak whe running. High pressure can pierce even calloused hands and get bad real fast. Use cardboard.


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## slowzuki (Mar 8, 2011)

Just the same, atomized diesel from a spray ignites surprisingly easy. A hot turbo will light it up very easily.



r82230 said:


> HayJosh,
> 
> One nice thing about diesel (IMHO) is it isn't so quick to catch fire like gas. But to your question, look at the attached parts diagram (I think I got the right one), you should be talking about maybe #33, #34 and #35 (about $25-$30 each). Perhaps line has split (don't ask how I may know that). :angry:
> 
> Larry


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## somedevildawg (Jun 20, 2011)

Not the same...


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## Hayjosh (Mar 24, 2016)

Shortly after starting this thread, I bought a copper crush washer set and replaced the washer. The diameter of the washer was larger than the original but nonetheless was a cheap and fast fix as it's no longer leaking. While I was at it I also fixed that aerodymanic exhaust I had going on. Sucks because now I don't get as good of fuel 'mileage' going down the road


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## Wethay (Jul 17, 2015)

Add chrome exhaust. It increases horsepower and top speed, you can learn that at most any truck stop.


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## Hayjosh (Mar 24, 2016)

Actually I'm going to add racing stripes. It added 25 hp to my 67 Mustang, I figure it will probably add another 10 PTO hp to my tractor and 20 hp to drawbar. That'll get me right up to where I need to be for a discbine.


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