# new holland 2450



## mohay (Jun 4, 2011)

I have a new holland 2450 self propelled haybine. I have been fighting a charging problem for a year now. I have replaced the battery and the alternator has been tested twice, starter once. The machine will slowly discharge while running until the header wont even raise. If i charge the battery up over night and run it the next day the machine will charge ie 13.7 volts then in about five minutes will start discharging. Im out of options, our new holland dealership really has no mechanics that know haybines that well. Any help would be much appreciated.


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## Nitram (Apr 2, 2011)

Maybe a long shot but on my dumptruck similar problem I found a wire laying on the block cracked and shorting out. It however didn't completly discharge while running. Good luck


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## mlappin (Jun 25, 2009)

Maybe try ditching the stock alternator and getting a "one wire" self energizing, self regulating alternator in it's place. Then run a heavy gauge (4 or even 2 gauge) wire directly from the single terminal on the alternator to the positive post on the battery.


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## Gearclash (Nov 25, 2010)

> and the alternator has been tested twice


I've seen them test OK and still be bad. I'd be careful of an aftermarket alt. Some equipment uses the alternator for a tachometer signal. Does this thing only discharge while it is running? If there is a fault in the electrical system and the alternator is healthy, it should be showing amperage like crazy if someone would check it at the primary wire coming from the alt.


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## mlappin (Jun 25, 2009)

Gearclash said:


> I've seen them test OK and still be bad. I'd be careful of an aftermarket alt. Some equipment uses the alternator for a tachometer signal.


True that, but I've only ever seen it twice, and both were on Massey Ferguson tractors.

Who is testing the alternator? Maybe try a differant shop and see what they say?


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## Toyes Hill Angus (Dec 21, 2010)

here is the basic test procedure: first the battery- charge it up slow untill fully charged which is 12.6 volts (6 cells at 2.1 volt each,wired in series) Load thest the battery using a carbon pile tester of some kind, apply 1/2 CCA rating discharge to the battery using the carbon pile.
If the battery checks out and only if it does proced to the machin charging circuit. Re-attach battery cables, start machine and run at high idle (do this after checking that the alternator belt is tight), place the amp clamp from the battery tester on the primary charge wire from alternator (this wire likely goes to the starter solenoid), put the battery clamps on the battery, note the voltage at this time, it should be 13.6-14.5 volts period. Cran on the carbon pile again, this will put a load on the alternator, drop battery voltage etc make sure the alternator is producing 45 Amps at 13 volts. If you don't have access to an AVR (tester) or carbon pile etc you can still do this...
Make sure battery is fully cahrged 12.6 Volts or charge it until it is, make sure alternator belt is tight, start machine, run at high idle, turn every electrical accessory on that it has and recheck battery voltage... it needs to be 13.6 or higher. This method is not as accurate because you do not know if alternator is at full potentiol or not but it does work.


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## mohay (Jun 4, 2011)

So today after charging all night the battery was reading 12.24 with machine off. With machine running and everything electronic on it read on my gauge at the battery 12.54 but the dash only read 11.5. I started mowing with a/c on and it slowly drains it to 11.0 volts reading on dash. The weird thing is it is causing the water temp to read wrong. With a/c on temp will be 236, with just fan on it is 224, and nothing on it is 190 which is normal for the machine. With the header down and mowing it volts are at 11.6 with all electronics off. With header up and running volts are 12.0 with all electronics off. The machine did shut off twice because the volts got pulled down. 
I had our guy that rebuilds starters and alternators test them both and even oreillys. The alternator is working since it will run three hours (did today) and not completely drain out the battery. My question is could the a/c blower motor be pulling so many volts the alternator cant keep up, but even with it off its still not charging to what it use to (13.7-14.3)


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## mike10 (May 29, 2011)

You do not mention the third componet of the charging system and that is the regulator. If the alternator charges when full fielded, which is probably how they are testing it, then either your regulator is not working or you have a wiring problem to the alt/reg. There also appears to be a 5amp fuse in the excitation circuit to the alternator and a 50 ohm resister. Not familiar with the fuse block setup but it is surely listed on the cover or in the operators manual. The fuse is number 8. It appears there are three wires to the alt. You naturally have battery voltage to the battery terminal. You should also have battery voltage at the LTGN/B wire and should have slightly less than battery voltage at the R/LTGN terminal. It will be slightly less voltage because of the 50 ohm resister.


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## Toyes Hill Angus (Dec 21, 2010)

You have battery problems. 12.24 after just removing a charger that ran all night is no good. The battery would have had a high surface charge in it from the charger so it should have been some where around 13.somethingV. Get a hydrometer and test the specific gravity of the acid in each cell, I bet you have one bad cell. You may still have some charging issue but that battery is no good. (assuming that you voltmeter and reading are accurate). Take the battery back where you got it, they will test it out too, some batteries sit on a shelf flooded ready to install for WAY too long, some are shipped in dry freight vans in the winter and otherwise treated poorly before sold. A good battery dealer will have only dry batteries meaning no acid in them untill sold. They then fill them with acid and give to customer. Not distilled water and never tap water, good clean acid.


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## Toyes Hill Angus (Dec 21, 2010)

Also, doesn't this machine use a Delco internally regulated alternator? It seems to me that they were built from 1993 until just before the 2000s, so no externally regulated alternator would have been used. Unless built by Chrysler, they loved to put the regulator in the ECM, in this case wiring and connectors are quite critical.
Nothing will behave in a proper manner with a bad/poor battery, so it makes it hard to diagnose, but I still think that it should not be going dead while running(?). Have you ever put your hand on the alternator after it has run for a while? It should be warm but not HOT. Things don't add up here, you may need to start over, check wiring/ connectors at alternator and the starter, battery connections and ground straps at the alternator, battery, and engine


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## Toyes Hill Angus (Dec 21, 2010)

Back to your question about the A/C pulling the battery voltage down, if you look at your A.C compressor clutch you will see that it only has a small 14ga wire, so it will simply not pull that much amperage without catching on fire, the blower assy will use some power but not enough to cause a 85 Amp delco to discharge (that is what the parts book says it should have as the base model 95 is the upgrade) When it was tested what was the output amperage and voltage?


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## obdcs (Jul 4, 2014)

So, Mohay. Did you get this figured out??? Was it indeed the battery? I started having the identical problem yesterday.


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## Union1 (Jun 27, 2021)

I have a New Holland 2450 as well. The regulator was shorting out. While the battery cable was on the alternator was hot to touch without the engine running. Regardless if the key was on. If you left the Cable on overnight the battery would lose its charge. Charging system was a Delco 95 amp large body. First one was from NAPA installed it. It was a bad remanufacture. Got a Second one worked a little low on charging amps but it works. Charges at between 13.7-14.3 volts. With a Multimeter set it to Volts touch the Black side to the Frame to ground. Touch the red terminal to the hot wire behind the alternator anything less than 14.2 is a bad alternator. First reman alternator was reading 13.6 once, once the AC was on, Lights were on, and Hydraulic Solenoids operating it dipped to the 10.9-11 volts with out kicking up. Changed it out works now. I don't have to unhook the battery cable no more does not drain out over night.


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