# Hay field Weed control



## Rguillem (Dec 21, 2016)

I have a field that is fairly new. This year was the 4th hay season that I have done.

This year due to lack of rain, weeds gained strength in my field.

I am not the owner of the field. The owners are very environmentally fussy about what I do.

I took some weeds and soil sample. Went to the Experimental Station here in Ct. They identified the weeds for me. Talked to the "Weed Scientist". He suggested this Crossbow weed killer to spray. I would love some weed killer that I could spread.

Anyone have suggestion on what to do with this type of situation?

Thank you.


----------



## rjmoses (Apr 4, 2010)

Please try to be more specific. Different "hay" and different weeds require different herbicides. E.g., putting Crossbow on alfalfa wouldn't work--it would kill, or at least seriously damage, your alfalfa. Putting a grass herbicide on orchardgrass would nail the OG, but not hurt the broadleaf weeds.

Thanks

Ralph


----------



## r82230 (Mar 1, 2016)

Rguillem said:


> I am not the owner of the field. The owners are very environmentally fussy about what I do.
> 
> Thank you.


On top of Ralph's point, what will the owner allow you to do? (eg. burn, use any chemical,spread lime/manure, etc.) And, do you think you could educate owner on good soil/crop stewardship?

Larry


----------



## IH 1586 (Oct 16, 2014)

Work on getting the PH into spec. To avoid using herbicides I would take the hay off more often. About every 28 to 35 days and the weeds wont make seed. This of course is very weather dependent if you only do dry. Just an idea if owners are fussy about the herbicides.


----------



## VA Haymaker (Jul 1, 2014)

I'm thinking Crossbow is no longer manufactured and was replaced with Pasturegard? Perhaps someone can add some clarity/correction to this.

Environmental - I'd find out what the land owner exactly meant by that.

Soil samples are great, IMHO weeds like poor soil. Sooner you can fix that, the more competitive your hay will be.

With any herbicide, look for premergant seed suppression on one end and wait time to harvest at the other end. Also, since you are selling the hay, be mindful of the label. Some herbicides require waiting as much as 18 months before taking hay off the property.


----------



## Rguillem (Dec 21, 2016)

First of all, thank you for all the responses. This is great!!!

Let me give more details as to what I have and know.

I seeded the field with Preferred Seed Horse Haymaker mix which is 50% PS 2000 brand Timothy, 30% Crown Royale Orchardgrass, 15% Balin Forage Kentucky Bluegrass, 5% Calibra Tetraploid Perrennial Ryegrass.

The analysis of the soil. One half of the field gives me more problems than the other. Did sample in the two areas. PH is 5.8 on one side and 6.5 on the other. My Nitrate Nitrogen is low. I was told to add lime for the PH of 5.8 and spread some 32-0-4 fertilizer to balance the Nitrogen.

The weeds I took out of the field and brought to the Experimental Station were identified as Aster, Fleabane, Queen Anne's Lace, and Smooth Bedstraw. The first tree are more concentrated on the side of the field with 5.8 PH. I see this Bedstraw a little bit all over.

I do two cuts a year. My first is done around mid June. I have someone who buys it for cattle feed. The second cut is for horses. Have a couple of people that buy what I get. I do small square bales.

The owner of the property is touchy. It's funny. He's a professor of forestry and she is a medical research scientist. I brought up the subject. First response was no, then we continued talking. I think I can win them over slowly. I need sound information to explain to them. If I can show I know what I am doing and have researched for the best way. I think they will listen. If I come across as doing things in a haphazard way, then I am dead.

I think I have answered all your questions. Any information or opinions are greatly appreciated.

Ron,


----------



## Fossil02818 (May 31, 2010)

I'd follow the recommendations for lime and fertilizer. The Aster, Fleabane, Queen Annes lace and Bedstraw will not outcompete your grasses if you take three cuttings per year for a year or two as others have suggested. It can be challenging to get that first cut put away in late May or early June, but, it really makes a difference if you can cut before the annual weeds go to seed.


----------



## endrow (Dec 15, 2011)

Here those weeds would be the typical non productive weed patch. Getting PH and fertility up and frequent mowing next season is a good plan and if you can spray, do so when target weed are still SMALL. Or as was said make the 1st cutting early.We were given free rent land for hay that was predominate in these weeds in most cases the owners said no spray .If the bedstraw is thick and well established it is difficult.My question always is...Is there grass in the field . Grass cat get ahead if it is gone


----------



## rajela (Feb 15, 2014)

Can you get a written report from the weed expert to show the land owner that this is what is recommended.


----------



## Rguillem (Dec 21, 2016)

Here goes...

What I am getting sounds good. The guy that buys my first cut was buying small bales. This past summer, the round bales were more convenient for him. His friend came over and we did the round bales, dry hay. Next year he told me he wants to do silage round bales. That means we would wrap them in plastic. We can do this a little earlier around here. Don't need as much nice weather. Sounds good to me.

My first question in this situation.

I read/told that if I cut too early that would affect Timothy. Is this true? I usually wait until I see the timothy start to flower.

Last summer was particularly dry around here. I mean drought condition. My second cut was very small. It just did not rain. If I get my PH and Phospate correct, can I squeeze the weeds out by doing the early cut?

If I spray, can I do just the worst part of the field. I want to minimize so the owner is ok with it.

Appreciate the help.

Ron,l


----------



## luke strawwalker (Jul 31, 2014)

The first step with any weed problems is usually correcting pH and fertility... that can go a LONG way toward making the crop outcompete the weeds and set up soil conditions that are preferential to the crop over the weeds. Course, some things (like nitrogen) can stimulate the weeds as well, so of course herbicides are often necessary next step to control the problem.

If you can show the landowners that the herbicide is the recommended treatment for the particular weed problems you're experiencing, and you have read the label and discuss application, timing, and other such issues (as well as things like persistence or carryover, drift, etc) so that they know you know what you're doing and can discuss the effects of the treatment with them, then if they're reasonable you SHOULD be able to convince them that treating the weeds would be a good thing for their land and for your production.

Course, if they're some of these "irrational greenies" type tree-huggers, well, nothing you say isn't going to convince them you're not an uneducated hapless stooge of Monsanto and the other big companies that are bent on the destruction of the universe and all life as we know it...

Best of luck! OL J R


----------



## Tim/South (Dec 12, 2011)

Rguillem said:


> If I spray, can I do just the worst part of the field. I want to minimize so the owner is ok with it.
> 
> Appreciate the help.
> 
> Ron,l


Yes, you can spot spray the worst parts. Doing so may actually help the land owner see the difference and benefits.


----------



## gosh (Sep 28, 2014)

Rguillem said:


> Here goes...
> 
> What I am getting sounds good. The guy that buys my first cut was buying small bales. This past summer, the round bales were more convenient for him. His friend came over and we did the round bales, dry hay. Next year he told me he wants to do silage round bales. That means we would wrap them in plastic. We can do this a little earlier around here. Don't need as much nice weather. Sounds good to me.
> 
> ...


I wonder if you could sell them on the "scientific" aspects of chemical weed control and throw in a little "tree hugger" along with that. What I mean is sell them on the idea that as soon as the herbicide is mixed with water, it starts to break down. Check the label and maybe you can learn more about that.

Then inform them on the history of these weeds. If they aren't native to the area, then you're selling the idea that you're trying to return the land to a more natural state.

Check local garbage cans. Find a Hillary for President bumper sticker. Make sure they see it on your pickup when you go see them. Then return sticker to the trash when you get home. Wash hands thoroughly.

You're welcome!


----------



## SCtrailrider (May 1, 2016)

gosh said:


> I wonder if you could sell them on the "scientific" aspects of chemical weed control and throw in a little "tree hugger" along with that. What I mean is sell them on the idea that as soon as the herbicide is mixed with water, it starts to break down. Check the label and maybe you can learn more about that.
> 
> Then inform them on the history of these weeds. If they aren't native to the area, then you're selling the idea that you're trying to return the land to a more natural state.
> 
> ...


If I were to put that sticker on my truck I'd be walking.... my truck would more than likely quit working and start needing what little change I have in my pocket...

If that's what it would take I'd let the owner deal with the weeds and move to the next field....


----------



## gosh (Sep 28, 2014)

SCtrailrider said:


> If I were to put that sticker on my truck I'd be walking.... my truck would more than likely quit working and start needing what little change I have in my pocket...
> 
> If that's what it would take I'd let the owner deal with the weeds and move to the next field....


HAHAHA!


----------



## thendrix (May 14, 2015)

I'd have to slip the sticker past the in laws house to go talk and probably wouldn't be very successful. They can smell a Democrat from a mile away and I'd be disowned


----------

