# How to Tell if my hay is dry enough to Bale?



## whitmerlegacyfarm

Ok so i got my 10ac tedded yesterday was bout 75 deg with a breeze, forcast for today is 80 w/ breeze, it's the 3rd day on the ground. I'm curious w/out a moisture tester how can i tell if it is dry enough to bale. I had troubles last year w/ a 2nd and 3rd cutting. I've heard of the grab a hand full between ur 2 hands tight together and twist 2-3 times if it breaks your good.... Is that one way of knowing a little better? My thoughts are to ted again today as soon as the top dries again maybe rake and bale the one field that is thin, and let the rest of my 8.5 ac to rake and bale tomorrow. I just don't want to waste all this hay, bUT THE forcast for tomorrow as of now is overcast in the mid to upper 70s, with very slight chance of a shower late Sunday evening/nite. I'm using older equipment and small squares so i'm not real fast at production. Thanks all


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## whitmerlegacyfarm

I'm located in PA forgot about that if it helps a little.


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## NDVA HAYMAN

Your weather and mine here in Va is very similar. If it were me, I would wait until the dew got off this am and then start to rake. I would rake as much as you can and start baling as soon as it's ready. The twist you were talking about would be fine. Move your hands like you would your feet when riding a bicycle and 2 to 4 turns the hay should break. That's how we used to do it before our fancy equipment. If you don't have it raked, then you can't bale it and if you need to, you can always spread it back out with the tedder. Hope you have enough help and good luck. Mike


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## Texasmark

I have used the 3 turn test for 30 years baling primarily heavy sudan/sorghum that is in a big windrow. Stems are usually large, even when you plant and cut to reduce their size, and even with a conditioner are hard to get dry. Not a scientific test, but it works for me. If I can bale on a warm-hot day with N. winds preferably (usually low humidity) with a good stiff breeze blowing in the afternoon, like from 1- 3 pm then quit I have my best luck. Overcast days with no wind, pretty much forget it; same with waiting too late in the day to bale.

Sometimes I fudge and on the 3rd turn some of the stems don't snap. Sometimes I bale it anyway and always regret it.

Problem I have with any kind of instrument is calibration and using as it was intended. When I was in industry our monitoring equipment was checked for calibration every 90 days. Most of us that work for ourselves, (going to bet) never have our instruments calibrated, so what good are they in making scientific decisions and I put a hay moisture tester in that category.

My 2c and we all have our opinions.
Mark


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## whitmerlegacyfarm

I see, we are to have sunshine till atleast noon tomorrow so that should give it time to dry the dew off and hopfully a breeze so i think i can get it a little dryer tomorrow also. We will see what happens today and how dry it seems to get w/ the 80 deg and breeze. I will keep you all posted anxious to see how many bales i come up with. All being done but dropping on wagon no kicker lol just man power mostly the wife and I and maybe a neighbor.


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## JD3430

I dropped 5 bills on Deere baler moisture tester and a hand held bale tester.
But the twist test is still the one I really trust.
I look at the electronics as a diagnostic tool.


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## mlappin

you can also use a microwave often to check your hay. http://www.agry.purdue.edu/ext/forages/publications/ID-172.htm


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## Texasmark

JD3430 said:


> I dropped 5 bills on Deere baler moisture tester and a hand held bale tester.
> But the twist test is still the one I really trust.
> I look at the electronics as a diagnostic tool.


That one doesn't need calibration. Grin


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## whitmerlegacyfarm

mlappin said:


> you can also use a microwave often to check your hay. http://www.agry.purd...ions/ID-172.htm


Lol i keep reading over this and i'm not understanding it fully. I guess i will just stick to the twist test lol.

Today will be the 4th day on the ground low to mid 80s w/ a light a breeze. I have tedded twice now once each day(2nd and 3rd day). Still does not seem to be dry. I'm going to ted as soon as dew is off this morning. The top is defently dry. I need a different tedder. I have straight bar HS 8 tedder and it's just not cutting it. I beleive i need to make my swath thinner when I cut. I was running over part of it when cutting the next swath which it return has been hard to pick up w/ tedder let alone stratle the swath when tedding. I think tedding today and letting dry for a few more hrs will be the trick then rake about 1 or 2 and start baling. I got 10 ac. to bale just by dropping on ground/wagon before rain late tonight.


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## endrow

We are from Pa as well made a lot of dry hay this week 2.5 to 3 days from cut to bale. Due to prior rains the week before the reason your hay does not dry after tedding is the ground is wet beneath the tedded swath. Rake it asap to get it off the wet ground and it will be dry in several hours.


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## Vol

Best way to tell if your hay is dry enough is to bend over with your ear about 10" off the ground and listen for very faint coughing and hacking.....that would be your weevils and grasshoppers signaling that yes indeed your hay is dry enough.









Regards, Mike


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## whitmerlegacyfarm

Well bad news. Couldn't get it dried enough. I raked it left it sit for 3 hours and started baling, was to wet. I did 85 bales and i just new it was to wait. I raked it again and flipped it over and waited a little longer tried again and just to wet. So now im stuck letting it sit w/ scattered thunderstorms for next 3 days. It was beautiful hay i just couldn't get it dry, i guess just to much moisture in ground. Where did i go wrong should i have raked a day sooner to let the ground dry out more. I thought i was doing the right thing i tedded it 3 days in a row. Just a major bummer, been looking forward to this since last fall. Guess it's all just a learning curve, just frustrating but it's a ton of fun.

Will the hay be ok in windrows if we get a shower or two. As soon as we get a dry day i will go and then ted it back out on the dry ground? I would say it was 85% dry, I believe i did the right move by not going on with the baling. Our horses are not picky with there hay so, the stuff i attempted making last year got rained on and they ate it all.


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## NDVA HAYMAN

If it was 85% dry, then the moisture was roughly 15% which is dry enough to bale depending on the type of hay (considering average leaf and stem moisture). Do you have conditioning rolls in your haybine? That is the only reason off hand that I can think of for it not drying. If you dont crimp the stems, it takes a lot longer. I cut my hay in a WIDE swath and run the tedder right behind the hay. That way, it's off the ground where the air can get under it and DRY. Mike


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## JD3430

I decided not to cut because of the "wet ground" factor. I was going to cut/bale starting last Thursday, but it had rained about 2 days before in PA and the ground was damp. I thought if I cut the hay, it would just be green hay laying on muddy ground, so I held off.

I once read (don't know if it was here) to not be too greedy and cut hay real low to the ground. Other than obvious reasons (cutters pick up lots of debris), cutting a little higher leaves taller stubble for the cut hay to lay on. The higher the hay off the ground, the better it dries. Who knows if that is right/wrong, but that's what I do. Seems like stubble grows back healthier if it is droughty, too. My fields are all bent over from heavy rain. Now the waiting game starts all over again. Got another system just moved in with lots of rain. Looks like another week+ of waiting.


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## Amelia Farms

Get yourself an old New Holland 68 baler. If it will bale the hay, it is dry enough!

That is the lesson I learned this year, my first year doing my own hay


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## Walcar

I cut hay last Tuesday and Wednesday and then let it lay in a wide swath for a couple of days. Did about 20 acres total. Raked half on Friday and baled that afternoon. I did the same thing with the remaining half Saturday. Made some of the nicest small squares I have seen. Here in south central Kentucky a wide swath seems to be part of the trick to get proper drying along with a cooperating Mother Nature.


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## whitmerlegacyfarm

Amelia Farms said:


> Get yourself an old New Holland 68 baler. If it will bale the hay, it is dry enough!
> 
> That is the lesson I learned this year, my first year doing my own hay


Well i actually do have a NH 68. But that does not hold true for me lol. I baled a 3rd cutting last year when i bought the NH68 hay was extremely wait i ran 45 bales threw it no problem and the bales where super wet and heavy lol. So it baled it and it wasn't dry for sure. I stumbled acrossed a NH269 while getting a NH56 rake from a lady and she only wanted 400 bucks for the NH269 w/ a kicker so i brought that home to. The 269 is tieing like a champ it seems, but i only ran 85 bales threw never missed a one. Just got play w/ tensioner a little to get a more consistante bale i think.

Im headed now to ted my windrows back out from Sunday so when the weather does dry hopfully the hay will be salvagable and dry out. Not looking good though change of showers/tstorms for the next 5days.

Will the hay be ok?


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## DYNOBOB

As long as you bale dry bales it will be good for somebody. You can put an ad on CL and sell it for cows/goats. Just be honest about what it is.

.


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## mlappin

JD3430 said:


> I decided not to cut because of the "wet ground" factor. I was going to cut/bale starting last Thursday, but it had rained about 2 days before in PA and the ground was damp. I thought if I cut the hay, it would just be green hay laying on muddy ground, so I held off.


Purdue recommends when wet ground is a factor to make your swaths as narrow as possible to expose more ground to sunshine and any breeze you may have then ted after the ground dries some between the rows. This is how I handle wet ground, the last couple of years with all the rain we had, if I waited for the ground to dry out on it's own might as well parked everything in the barn and went on a month vacation.


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## whitmerlegacyfarm

I have been thinking about that the last couple of days. My hay is still on the ground and i i've tried tedding it back out and that is just not working so i raked it back up. I'm going to pray that no rains tonight into tomorrow and then flip windrow tomorrow afternoon and hopfully bale then. It's alredy bleached bad no color to it anymore. I duno what i'm going to do with it. If the horses don't seem to want to eat it i guess I will put a add on CL for a 1.00 a bale or something like that. Thanks all for the help just a big learning curve i guess. Just been looking forward to this first cutting since last fall.


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## mlappin

What kind of tedder are you using? Depending on what you raked it with, there might be a considerable learning curve to get the desired results. Do you have what I'd consider an actual tedder with baskets tht spread the hay out, or do you have a "fluffer" that kind of keeps it in the row?


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## whitmerlegacyfarm

Yes i guess my tedder is just realy a fluffer. It's and H&S-8. Then i have a NH 56 Rolabar Rake. It fluffs a narrow row well but when i initially cut, i left it in a wide swath which is the kicker i think.

So what should my common practice be w/ my fluffer. I was hoping to get a real tedder in a few years.


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## Texasmark

I was reading back through this again just now and I think I can read "wheel rake" into this if the ww isn't too big and wet.

Watching how the wr lifts the lay and lets it fall on it's own making more of it airborne makes a lot of sense. I know my II bar is prone to rolling it into a tube when I move it over covering several ww's or if I have to rake it too much. There were times when I just got the tedder out and broke the ww apart, let it finish curing and then raked it back up.

I guess you just have to stay with what works under the circumstances. The more experiences you have the more knowledgeable you will be and thus the more successful. Advice can help only so much.

Good cutting.

Mark


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## whitmerlegacyfarm

I got it bales yesterday finally. No color in the bales but the horses are still eating it. Curious if down the road i should rake it onto dry ground then come behind w// the tedder and fluff it up. I was searching around on H&S site and they have a a tedder that that has 3 wheels on like a wheel rake that rakes it over into the path of the tedder. Thinking that flips the windrow over onto dry ground and then the tedder fluffs it up. I know it's an extra trip but i'm considering it.


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## mlappin

First thing, lose the rolabar rake. They are very good at making a roped up windrow that doesn't dry, couldn't pay me to use one again. I know it's hard getting started, but that would be one of the first things I'd replace. The fluffer is better than nothing, but around here most of those are going super cheap at sales as every body wants a rotary tedder now. If fluffed than raked with a wheel rake or better yet a rotary rake, the fluffer might be alright in your area after all. I just don't care for rolabar rakes, wait a tad too long and beat the leaves of the forage, rake a tad too soon and you make a roped up row that air can't move thru with the wet stuff usually buried in the middle of it.


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## whitmerlegacyfarm

My ground is not very even. Some of my fields i'm bouncin a round on lol. What are the Wheel rakes like versus the rotary rakes on uneven ground? I see there is a New Holland 254 tedder/rake combo guess they are a 3pt hookup. Any take on what these are like? I think they are only asking $1500.


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## JD3430

I picked up a Niemeyer rotary rake with hydraulic height adjust for $2,200. I too used a rolabar rake last year and couldn't get hay to dry. Anxious to see the difference. The Niemeyer rake looks well built.


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## whitmerlegacyfarm

Theres so many factors in this hay drying process lol. But like a lot of you said on here if it was that easy everyone would be doing it.


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## JD3430

mlappin said:


> *First thing, lose the rolabar rake.* They are very good at making a roped up windrow that doesn't dry, couldn't pay me to use one again. I know it's hard getting started, but that would be one of the first things I'd replace. The fluffer is better than nothing, but around here most of those are going super cheap at sales as every body wants a rotary tedder now. If fluffed than raked with a wheel rake or better yet a rotary rake, the fluffer might be alright in your area after all. I just don't care for rolabar rakes, wait a tad too long and beat the leaves of the forage, rake a tad too soon and you make a roped up row that air can't move thru with the wet stuff usually buried in the middle of it.


I agree-lose the rolabar rake


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## whitmerlegacyfarm

Going to have to make it last this year. I'm not making enough hay to justify getting read of it. I only paid 400 bucks for it, guess it's worth a lot more though so that's a plus if i would want to sell it and put that towards a rotarty rake . Will the rotary work ok on uneven ground?


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## mlappin

On very uneven ground I'd say the rotary is a no go and is one reason why I haven't upgraded yet, but the proper wheel rake will follow the ground contour.


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## whitmerlegacyfarm

So just a 4 wheel rake would b ok for my small operation and smalls fields? 4 Wheel rakes appear to only be a lil over 1k new if i'm looking at the right ones.


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## hayray

After reading how many times you have traveled the field I think it is a big mistake to cut the hay either when the ground or standing crop is wet. Also, check ahead of time and look at what your forecasted humidity and sky cover is for the next couple days before cutting, those are the two biggest factors in drying hay. Hay should be able to be dried in two to 3 days in good conditions. Also, check your conditioner rollers effect on the stems and see if you are conditioning to manufactures specs. Something is sure wrong after all those days and all that tedding and raking.


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## whitmerlegacyfarm

Wet ground was my biggest factor. I layed it wide like most said to do but not knowing ground was moist. I only fluffed in in the same row never allowing it to dty underneath which keot moisture in ground. Im learnin a lot from you guys I really appreciate it. Thank,you all.


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## terraceridge

I use a John Deere rolabar rake and I see nothing wrong with it. I cut hay with a disc mower on day 1 and run a real tedder behind the mower, or at least within a few hours of cutting. On day 2 I will ted again. If there are great drying conditions, I will sometimes skip the first tedding. On day 3 I begin raking when the dew is off, which is about 10 AM. I will usually have someone baling as soon as I can get the hay raked. If I don't, I will bale as soon as the field is raked. I never use a rake to aid in drying. The tedder is what I use to help the hay dry (as well as preserve color by preventing the hay on top from bleaching). I only rake if the hay is ready, or almost ready to bale. I am in NC where the summer temperatures regularly reach 100-105 degrees (110 heat index). We also have high humidity. I never have had to deal with wet ground, though. This is just what works for me.


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## mlappin

Mowed yesterday morning, actually more like 11 as I had a dental appointment in the am, tedded this morning, raked with a v wheel rake at 1:30, baled at 4, heading to the VFW now. Hay might not have made it if I waited till it was almost dry before raking, proper rake used in the proper manner will take hours off the drying time. 2 days is my normal time to get hay dry. not actually two days, 9 am one morning to around 4-6 the next afternoon is more like 31-33 hours from the time of cutting to baling.


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## haybaler101

mlappin said:


> Mowed yesterday morning, actually more like 11 as I had a dental appointment in the am, tedded this morning, raked with a v wheel rake at 1:30, baled at 4, heading to the VFW now. Hay might not have made it if I waited till it was almost dry before raking, proper rake used in the proper manner will take hours off the drying time. 2 days is my normal time to get hay dry. not actually two days, 9 am one morning to around 4-6 the next afternoon is more like 31-33 hours from the time of cutting to baling.


Yeah, but life has been good here. Mowed 2nd cut alfalfa last week on Monday afternoon. Let lay till Thursday am and raked with dew on (very little) and baled at midnight that night. Hay was perfect green and leaves intact and moisture from lab at 11.5%. Must be nice to make hay in Kansas!


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## mlappin

Unless it's very humid, very overcast, or the ground is saturated, I always plan on making hay the afternoon after I mow in the morning. The Circle C rollers guarantee I can do that on first cut with tedding and several times last summer when it wasn't near as dry, I had to wait till the third day as it got too dry the second day without using the tedder at all.

I've tried the ted directly after mowing thing_ HERE_ and decided it was a waste of time as usually 90% of the time with the dews we get here, by the next morning it is matted down tight to the ground and needs tedded a second time if it's to go the same day. Why ted it twice, if I can ted it the first time in the AM of the second day while the dew is on heavy and get the same result?

Back in the day of the dinosaurs and stock conditioning rolls and a fluffer instead of rotary tedder and using two bar rakes on a tandem hitch instead of a v wheel rake, we used to plan on three days at least, four days if you had a sensitive stomach.


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## Nitram

haybaler101 said:


> Hay was perfect green and leaves intact and moisture from lab at 11.5%. Must be nice to make hay in Kansas!


It can be. Some of the trials and tribulations I read on here some times make me appreciate here. Hadn't heard or saw a tedder before this wonderful site. But...we too have issues making hay. As I've read on here before find what works for you and your area and keep an open mind about learning other methods, you may need them eventually. Martin. Kansas proud


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## mlappin

whitmerlegacyfarm said:


> Lol i keep reading over this and i'm not understanding it fully. I guess i will just stick to the twist test lol.


The directions are not the greatest I agree, I actually had to see it done once to get it.


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## Vol

I have always enjoyed my annual trips to Kansas and really enjoy learning about agriculture from their perspective. Kansans grow all crops well. As I have said on here before, I would like to be tilling the fertile soil of North Central Kansas.....you take the good with the bad in every state and I would adjust to those dang Tornadoes and those fall/winter prarie winds.

Regards, Mike


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## whitmerlegacyfarm

We have been getting rain pretty much every 2 days now showers n tstorms off and on. Got more hay i need to cut about 2 miles out the road that was giving to me, but i can't get the window i need. I got mine cut so the rain is defently boosting my 2nd cutting i hope.

And as far as my NH 479 yea the rollers are loosing some of the rubber but it's got to be better then sicklebaring it down right? I know its fun using the haybine, anxious to use my NH1469 Self Propelled i bought that i keep at my neighbors, bought it last fall so havn't tried it yet, rolls are in great shape on that.


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## hayray

The only thing you can do is wait and cut when it is going to dry. To avoid what you went through prior you will have to avoid cutting at the wrong time which may involve not cutting eventhough there are days forecasted without rain. Look up Hay Wilson's post regarding universal truths about humidity and then cross reference with forecasted humidity levels from the National Weather Service point forecast website for your area. Also look at sky cover. If you are going to have relative humidity levels about 50% your gonna have trouble and above 55% you are almost not gonna dry hay at all especially if partly cloudy.


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## JD3430

The information here is invaluable. I can almost say I wouldn't have been able to get started without the information shared here. It seems nobody "holds back". Everything is on the table for all to read.
Thanks to all for the generosity of information. Priceless!
Everyday has been a learning experience. Lots of frustration, but starting in the hay business is no easy task......pay ain't much, either. Still enjoy it.


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## whitmerlegacyfarm

JD3430 said:


> The information here is invaluable. I can almost say I wouldn't have been able to get started without the information shared here. It seems nobody "holds back". Everything is on the table for all to read.
> Thanks to all for the generosity of information. Priceless!
> Everyday has been a learning experience. Lots of frustration, but starting in the hay business is no easy task......pay ain't much, either. Still enjoy it.


Defently have to agree with you on that one!


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## FCF

Dr, Gary Lacefield has clear ,I think, explanation on testing your hay moisture using a microwave oven in this months Forage News at this link: http://www.uky.edu/Ag/Forage/June%202012.pdf .


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## DoItAll

To WhitmerLegacy Farm - What part of PA are you from? I'm outside of Phila. in Bucks County. Typically we mow 9-10am, will ted it out around 3-4pm that same day. The next day we will ted it again after the dew gets off around 9:30/10am then usually rake it up around 1pm and start baling around 2:30/3pm. Moisture usually runs anywhere from 9 - 15% moisture depending on weather / drying conditions. Some tips that we do is limit the amount of running on your windrow when mowing. Don't mow wet hay. If the ground is wet it will dry after mowing some, but you can only ted it so much to dry it and then you will have to rake it up to get it off the ground. 
I do feel the equipment that you use does make a difference. Rotary rakes are great to allow more drying. I have used both you can do a good job with the one you got. Doesn't dry as much like others have mentioned, but is gets it done. Definitely want those rollers crimping the stems if not its almost a waste.


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## whitmerlegacyfarm

FCF said:


> Dr, Gary Lacefield has clear ,I think, explanation on testing your hay moisture using a microwave oven in this months Forage News at this link: http://www.uky.edu/Ag/Forage/June%202012.pdf .


My last attempt went,better, I cut a 2 ac field of clover n timothy last weds, got sum rain tguraday but hay was still very,green. So friday I raked it onto dry ground n then used the fluffer. I fluffed it 2 times sat, n then once sunday, the clover is wat I couldnt get dry. It worked out cause I went n baled 600 bales at my neighbors. Then monday I raked at 1 then baled it at 4. Made 80 bales, seemed nice an dryn the horses our gobblin it up. Im very pleased with all my NH equip. No major break downs yet but only done about 15 ac total.
Also im located in central Pa just north of harrisburg in perry county


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## Shetland Sheepdog

whitmerlegacyfarm said:


> My ground is not very even. Some of my fields i'm bouncin a round on lol. What are the Wheel rakes like versus the rotary rakes on uneven ground? I see there is a New Holland 254 tedder/rake combo guess they are a 3pt hookup. Any take on what these are like? I think they are only asking $1500.


Run, Forrest, Run!! Don't even think about a combination rake/tedder! First, when tedding, it will only do one swath, or a bit more! Second, when raking, it delivers to the middle! Impractical for doubling windrows in second crop!
JMHO, HTH, Dave
PS: I run a New Holland 408 discbine, a Kuhn GF 5001 MH tedder, a Kuhn GA 300 GM rake & a New Holland 570 baler with a belt thrower. These machines are very well matched to each other. I'm just small time, but these machines allow me to put up some great hay.


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