# How to boost my yield



## Hayfever (Sep 8, 2011)

Hello, I have obtained a 100 acres of hay land that has not been taken care of as of late(10 years). I would appreciate any advice on bringing this back. I intend to take it over this year 2012 and plan on bush hogging at the end of the month.
thanks


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## hayray (Feb 23, 2009)

Soil test, get recommendations based on what crop you want to grow and come up with a plan. Your question is wide open and can be answered better if you give us alot more informaiton.


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## NCSteveH (Jun 30, 2009)

I agree,the question is wide open. But if experience has taught me anything it would be that the field is most likely overtaken with weeds and has a huge seed base sitting in it.

With that I would knock it down with the bush hog this fall then get soil samples. In the spring work it up with a disk and adjust the PH and fertility except the N. Then every time it greens up over the summer hit it with the disk to work the seed base down.

In the middle to end of August apply your N and then disk and plant your field. Yes you will not make any hay in 2012 but in 2013 you will have a really nice weed free field that will more than make up what you lost in sub-par hay and aggravation. Been there done than.

also be prepared, 100 ac. @ 3 ton/ac = 12000 idiot bricks or 600 1k rounds.


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## hay wilson in TX (Jan 28, 2009)

Over on AgTalk Home - Category & forums listing 
New Ag Talk is a Sage Gentleman, John Haggard ( SoilLife) who is good enough to share some ideas he has developed over the years. 
This appears to be to feed the organisms in your soil for a healthy soil, so we will have a healthy crop.

A healthy crop equates to higher yields less disease and fewer weeds.

His findings are that dry fertilizers do more for us than liquid. He dotes on manure. Promotes improving our organic matter, and more. No Snake Oil! 
At New Ag Talk those who are of a mind include their E-mail address in their back ground information.

He & I diverge on soil testing, and fertilizers. 
I have little faith in soil test results, and their interpretation.
My problem is a function of a high pH, Excessively high CEC and considerable free calcium carbonates. 
I lean more to plant analysis.

I happen to prefer anhydrous ammonia for my grass hay fields, *and* 10-34-0 liquid fertilizer that is deep banded.


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## vhaby (Dec 30, 2009)

Shredding (bush hogging) is not the most effective or cheapest way to control weeds, but shredding one time may be a necessary evil on neglected hay meadows/pastures to gain some control of weed height in order to begin a chemical weed control program. After shredding one time, control warm-season broadleaf weed regrowth using chemicals such as Weedmaster, GrazonNext, 2,4-D, etc. Also control winter weed growth using chemicals. If you plan on seeding grass, choose a weed control chemical that has no residual effect on germination. A soil test is in order to determine a beginning point on soil pH, fertility, and initial fertilizer/limestone recommendations. Plant analysis comes later after your new (old) forage is established. If dollars are limited, apply limestone to correct soil pH first, before paying for fertilizer. If you decide to plow (disk up the field) this will incorporae the limestone into the soil which is what should be done. Not knowing more about your location, the type of grass that is in the field, and what you plan on doing with it, little additional advice can be given to you.


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## allthingshay (Sep 11, 2011)

if you want to cut and bale some hay in 2012, with minor expenses: mow it late in the year, when the the summer grass is dormant; plow it up after a couple rains; plow it after some more rain in the late winter; then, once you can reach down and get a hand full of dirt; roll it down and let mother nature do her charm. note: not the highest yield, or quality hay, but will achieve 1 or 2 cuttings of hay on an average yr.-in the near future soil nutrition needs to be addressed though for higher y/q forage harvest-Kevin-936-870-5771.


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## hayray (Feb 23, 2009)

I am not sure about the disking? Seems to me maybe mowing and spraying with some 2-4-D would be a better option if this has already been a hay field then we can assume the ground is fitted pretty level. Usually disking equates to soil disturbance which is increased germination of oportunistic annuals that can make for a weedy stand. Have brought back many hay fields simply by mowing.


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## hay king (Feb 6, 2011)

Brush hog once then spread heavy this fall with chicken manure. Wait till spring then round bale first crop, then spead chicken manure again stand back and watch it grow like a hot damn. Chem fertalizer is a waste of money it doesnt last and has no long term effects, its a one time shot, chicken manure lasts a long time and is alot cheaper. If you dought this get some chicken manure and test it. It is buy far the best except for turckey manure. for your first speading go for 20-30 yards to the acre then in the spring cut back to 15-20 yards to the acre after that you can cut back to 10 yards to the acre once every spring. I know down there in the state you guys talk in tons per acre but tons changes depending on how wet the manure is. Try to get dry litter its a bit better than the wet stuff and if paying by the ton you will get more







. good luck and injoy


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## pmurphy_19 (Apr 16, 2011)

I would suggest to definitley take soil samples this fall. At the very least you can find out what your pH is and adjust over the winter. As far as even considering trying to get a cut off of it next year you HAVE to find out what hay species is in the field, the quality of the existing stand, and the population of annual and perrenial weeds. If there is a large ammount of perenial weeds, you should just start all over, starting this fall with a complete burn down, but don't plow. In early spring as soon as the new weeds start to green up, spray with herbicide, wait till everything is dead, then plow under and finish till. In Sept. spray again, finish till, add small amount of N like 20lbs, and plant. I have used this process multiple times and have had great success with it. It sucks because you basically lose a year, but you recover that loss with good quality hay for years to come. I hope this helps.

Patrick
Stonemur Farms
Home Page


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## Greyhorse (Jun 22, 2009)

I would think a lot, a whole lot, depends on where you are and what was there to start with. If it is somewhere in the south and it had Coastal Bermuda (sprigged, permanent) it's a lot different than if you live in a northern state and it had Timothy or Orchard Grass (seeded hay crops, needs to be reseeded periodically). Kind of need to know that info before saying more than address soil fertility.


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## hay wilson in TX (Jan 28, 2009)

Some of the best bermudagrass hay I have ever seen was from near Canton, and the best alfalfa was from Vernon, TX.


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## urednecku (Oct 18, 2010)

I'd think about burning after the first bush-hogging, soon as the weeds/grass is dry enough. (IF that is an option in your area.) I believe it gets rid of a lot of seeds, and the ash is good for the ground & new growth. I could see a real difference in the areas of my hayfield that I did burn off last winter from the areas I did not burn. My plans for this winter is to burn it ALL off.


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