# New Holland sledge frame



## newholland650 (Apr 20, 2015)

I need to weld my sledge frame on the right side of your looking from the back. The belt has wore a groove to about an 1/8 inch or so left. I’ve tried different baling techniques and adjusted tracking but can’t seem to get the belt to move. Question is can I feel in this groove under the follower roll without removing roll? Thanks


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## endrow (Dec 15, 2011)

newholland650 said:


> I need to weld my sledge frame on the right side of your looking from the back. The belt has wore a groove to about an 1/8 inch or so left. I've tried different baling techniques and adjusted tracking but can't seem to get the belt to move. Question is can I feel in this groove under the follower roll without removing roll? Thanks


Yes you can . I take the tension of the belts and slide them to the side a bit just to be safe and reach up there with the welding rod . It can be done


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## newholland650 (Apr 20, 2015)

Thank you sir! Also what do you think would solve the belt issue. The left side doesn’t ever rub the frame only this right side. I’ve made sure hay gets under all belts when starting a roll I’m wondering if switching a belt around would work?


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## 8350HiTech (Jul 26, 2013)

newholland650 said:


> Thank you sir! Also what do you think would solve the belt issue. The left side doesn't ever rub the frame only this right side. I've made sure hay gets under all belts when starting a roll I'm wondering if switching a belt around would work?


It could just be that belt. Swap it to a different spot and see if it persists.


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## mike10 (May 29, 2011)

My advise would be to weld the groove, grind smooth, and then go have a cold beverage. Forget about moving belts around. It takes thousands of bales to wear that groove and it is not like you can not do the repair again.

It is rare for the operator to make a perfect bale so the belts have a tendency to move to the side or sides that needs more hay.

The roll belt balers use a hardened wear plate that is screwed to the sledge frame. I see no reason why one of those wear strips could not be added to an older baler. Just need to drill and tap two holes.


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## Gearclash (Nov 25, 2010)

Couple thoughts. If one side of sledge is wearing more then it could be the tracking is off, or that belt wants to track over. Looking at belt guide wear will help you decide which. Also had a baler that was wearing both sides equally much faster than I liked, so switched those two belts around and reduced the wear quite a bit.


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## mlappin (Jun 25, 2009)

On my BR740A the roller on the tailgate latch froze up on one side, was like that when I got it, the latch had over 1/8" of metal gone from being dragged past the roller to open. That causes the tailgate to run slightly cocked when baling.

Another thing that helps, if you have the wide pickup make your rows wider than the bale so you get a little more hay in the shoulders of the bale than the middle.

I bought my NH644 cheap as the previous owner ran it till a belt cut the sledge frame roll enough that it let loose and the top roller went all FUBAR. Sat there on the dealers lot that August on and they didn't get it fixed. Was still sitting next August, just hadn't got to it, had all new parts still in the crates. I got a heck of a deal on that baler then ran another 12,000 bales thru it.


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## mike10 (May 29, 2011)

I guess I am the odd duck. I prefer for the outside belts to run close to the outside especially with 4x5 and 5x5 balers. In certain conditions, with a wide gap between the end belt and baler frame, hay will follow the outside of the belt up to the drive roll and can start wrapping on the drive roll. With the belts tracking more to the side the drive roll is covered by the belt and wrapping of the drive roll is reduced and if the roll does wrap, it cleans itself faster.

You can add an additional divider to the tailgate belt guide to help the belt move away from the sledge frame.


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## newholland650 (Apr 20, 2015)

Mike what is the part number for the additional divider to the tailgate guide?


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## mike10 (May 29, 2011)

You need to fabricate the plate and weld it to the existing tailgate belt guide


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## newholland650 (Apr 20, 2015)

Oh okay. I pulled the follower roll and replaced both bearings and welded and ground the groove smooth and welded and ground the tailgate guide. Is it normal for the follower roll to still have some play even after new bearings?


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## mike10 (May 29, 2011)

The follower roll can have some side to side movement since the scraper support bar is directly above the follower roll and that bar is what determines the width of he sledge frame at the top. There should be no noticable or very minimal vertical play in the follower roll. If you have the original style bearings and supports, there should be none. The later style with the square hole bearings and supports may have a slight vertical movement when pried on.


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## newholland650 (Apr 20, 2015)

I think mine is the later version it has the square hole. There is some vertical play but not very much but both bearings are new in each side


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## mike10 (May 29, 2011)

Did the bearing make a snug fit in the housing or was it loose? Snug is good, loose not so much.


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## newholland650 (Apr 20, 2015)

One side was snugger than the other side cuz the old bearing just fell right out. Maybe i should’ve used locktite on the one side but you couldn’t spin it in the housing by hand


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