# Engine rebuild kits ( best brand? )



## TORCH (Jan 7, 2012)

Hi:
Thinking about rebuilding 2 engines.

(1969) 1080 Massey Ferguson with the 318 Perkins Diesel.

(1976) White 2-105 Perkins Diesel 254.

I here that there are better quality rebuild kits out there. But don't know what brand to look for. Anyone have info on this?

I have rebuilt car and truck engines but have no experience with a sleeved engines. The main questions I would have is getting the sleeves out and back in block. I would think freezing the sleeves would be part of installing them.

Other question if the sleeves don't look to bad. Just hone them and leave them in. just go with new pistons and rings?
Do tractor engine rings come with file fit rings? I put this kind in a few gas engines. Still have all my engine rebuild tools. Can you degree the cams of these engines? Maybe the low RPM engines don't benefit from blueprinting. Thanks much.


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## Farmerbrown2 (Sep 25, 2018)

Pull the sleeves you want to change the o-rings on them . I have an old Farmall C Oring on sleeve went bad so we disassemble to replace Oring pain was motor did't need overhaul.


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## stack em up (Mar 7, 2013)

Perkins are dry sleeved engines. You WILL destroy the sleeve getting them out. I actually use a stick welder: run a couple beads and they will shrink enough to pull out by hand. The time spent ridge reaming and honing is better spent just pulling sleeves. Every engine I rebuild I have my machine shop friends balance the rotating group, have never blueprinted a tractor engine. I'm sure the big boy pullers do though.

I use A and I Products for my engine kits. Helluva lot cheaper than AGCO.


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## Farmineer95 (Aug 11, 2014)

Last Perkins I rented the puller made for liners. Made life easy and didn't wreck anything. This puller was hydraulic and had a Porta power hand pump. When they popped lose I quickly realized it was worth renting it. My parent bores required a bit of honing, the liners were just a bit lose so used ceramatite to ensure proper heat transfer. It was like putting a tire patch on so must dry fit first. Once the stuff was on it is a one time deal.

Use descretion with aftermarket, price doesn't necessarily reflect quality.


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## stack em up (Mar 7, 2013)

Did you reuse the sleeves farmineer? I have the sleeve puller for my porta power, but for me at $60/hr, plus sleeves come in the kit.

I just question the ceramatite. Never used it. So will the block be reusable after the next overhaul? I'm curious about it.


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## Farmineer95 (Aug 11, 2014)

Replaced the sleeves as they were scored.
My thing was because it was an in frame job I didn't want any issues with spatter or nicks on the crank.
Liners are supposed to be removable using a puller if ceramitite is used. So I'm told. First time I used it. Came recommended from the engine shop I work with.


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## timberjackrob (Feb 16, 2015)

last tractor we overhauled was 375 massey at that time massey had heritage line parts and were priced very competive but we wound up just getting the kit from the machine shop that done the sleeves and crank and heads just more convenient.


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## stack em up (Mar 7, 2013)

AGCOs heritage line is TISCO parts.


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## TORCH (Jan 7, 2012)

Interesting blocks that need ceramitite! First I have herd of this.

Is it because originally bored out, it was too big from factory?

So they save the blocks with some glue that transfers heat?

Any ways, should you remove sleeves first to check size and order kit with the right size of sleeve so you don't need this ceramitite?

My guess is they are standard sleeves if block is good it is a press fit if not glue in ?


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## Farmineer95 (Aug 11, 2014)

I'm thinking they recommended this as more of an insurance thing. Supposed to be slight interfence if I remember right. Mine slid in easier than expected so I asked about it.

As far as the right bore, I think I'm talking about .0005 to .001 where if it was bored it would be more oversize that any glue would never hold.


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## TORCH (Jan 7, 2012)

With out taking head off. I would think the head would keep sleeve in place. I will ask about ceramitite and use. I can take the block and sleeves to work and dip sleeves in liquid nitrogen and shrink them down. My guess is they will shrink .004 and drop right in would have to put ceramitite in the block.

I would think after sleeves installed. You would have to take I light cut on block to deck it off flat. what are you guys doing that do an in frame job????


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