# Starting new hay field



## Russell.seekins (Dec 4, 2013)

I am from Waterloo Ia, and I am wondering the best way to turn my corn and bean land into hay and get a good stand the first year, I would like to put 60 acres into straight alfa and 70 into a grass Alfa mix. This past year it was beans and I haven't done anything with it since so I was wondering what the best way to turn it into hay was and what everyone recommends i do as far as tillage before hand, and types of seed everyone recommends. Thanks!


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## swmnhay (Jun 13, 2008)

1-Soil test.Work in Lime and fert before you seed.

For a Alf/grass mix I like Orchardgrss.A late season one so it matures with the alf.Other options could be Meadow brome or Fescue.

Make a firm level seed bed.Some sort of roller helps.I drill then roll it with a large roller.

I prefer seeding after soybeans because less trash to deal with then corn.

A brillion seeder is prly the best way to seed,followed by a drill,then just blow it on with terrogator with fert and drag it in.

101 different ways to do it!!!


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## Farmerbrown2 (Sep 25, 2018)

check PH and get it right

Next here in Pa alfalfa and O. grass starts best in 2 bushel of oats to the acre in spring. But I don't know about IA or if you have combine and other needed equip. or sale for oats and the straw.

just my 3 cents


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## Russell.seekins (Dec 4, 2013)

I already had the co op take soil tests so that's covered thanks! The last time I put ground into hay I did 30 acres and I used oats as a cover crop and that worked well, but the problem was getting rid of the oats, there is no market here for the oats or the straw so I'm trying to stay away from using oats on this much land. What do u guys think about deep tilling it (14-16in) then spreading fert and lime then going in with either a field cultivater or soil finisher to smooth off the ground and work the lime and stuff in?


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## swmnhay (Jun 13, 2008)

Deep till in the spring?NO

I'd just spead your fert and work in with field cult.Maybe work it twice to get in nice and level.

I use annual Ryegrass for a cover crop instead of oats and cut it off for hay.You should get 3 cuttings off the seeding yr there.

Round up alfalfa could be and option for your straight alfalfa field.

You could direct seed Non RU but may have weed issues.


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## Russell.seekins (Dec 4, 2013)

Y are you saying no to the deep till, I thought alfa liked have a deep root system, and I thought breaking up the hard pan would allow the roots to go deeper..? But my thinking could be flawed too..


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## swmnhay (Jun 13, 2008)

Russell.seekins said:


> Y are you saying no to the deep till, I thought alfa liked have a deep root system, and I thought breaking up the hard pan would allow the roots to go deeper..? But my thinking could be flawed too..


If you deep till it in the spring you could dry it out as deep as you ripped.You want a firm seed bed not a loose one.Don't worry about the roots they will go down.


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## Russell.seekins (Dec 4, 2013)

Okay thanks, so you would just work the ground a few times 3-6in) after they spread fert then drill in the seed and roll it?


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## Russell.seekins (Dec 4, 2013)

Also what would you suggest for baler mounted moister tester, I have a brand new 2150 Heston big square as well as a inline Heston small square that's a few years old, I am looking at putting a silo king applicator on both but they do not offer a tester as far as I know.


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## swmnhay (Jun 13, 2008)

Russell.seekins said:


> Okay thanks, so you would just work the ground a few times 3-6in) after they spread fert then drill in the seed and roll it?


Yea,I'd work it 3-4" deep with field cultivator,Seed and roll.

No need to go 6" deep.You want a firm seed bed not a fluffy one.

If ground is to soft you could roll before drilling also.


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## mlappin (Jun 25, 2009)

swmnhay said:


> If you deep till it in the spring you could dry it out as deep as you ripped.You want a firm seed bed not a loose one.Don't worry about the roots they will go down.


Not to mention depending on how deep you work it and how long it has to settle after working it deep, what was a nice level smooth field may not be if it settles even more


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## North Forty Farm (Apr 20, 2014)

Guys
I need advice. I'm in East Texas and need to establish a new hay field this spring. Currently, their is winter rye and weeds and I'm dealing with mostly sandy loam soil.

I was told to plow to kill all weeds, then smooth out with disc, tiller, and harrow. This is also probably needed to level he fields to establish crops for the first time. Fields were recently cleared of trees/stumps. Height plans on sprigging with jigged Bermuda in June and irrigating from my lake if rain is not present. Will this process yield a decent stand of grass by Fall? Any suggestions?


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## FarmerCline (Oct 12, 2011)

North Forty Farm said:


> Guys
> I need advice. I'm in East Texas and need to establish a new hay field this spring. Currently, their is winter rye and weeds and I'm dealing with mostly sandy loam soil.
> I was told to plow to kill all weeds, then smooth out with disc, tiller, and harrow. This is also probably needed to level he fields to establish crops for the first time. Fields were recently cleared of trees/stumps. Height plans on sprigging with jigged Bermuda in June and irrigating from my lake if rain is not present. Will this process yield a decent stand of grass by Fall? Any suggestions?


 It sounds pretty good to me but I would suggest spraying to to kill the weeds before plowing under. If you plow them under alive there is a chance many could regrow from the roots. You also need to take a soil test if you haven't already done so that way you will know how much lime and fertilize you need. Since you say it was cleared off I bet you need quite a bit. The lime and fertilize needs to be put on before you work the ground so it can be thoroughly incorporated into the soil. Lime moves very slowly through the soil and that is why it is important to get the ph proper before planting because after sprigging your bermuda it can only be applied to the top of the ground. Lime also takes awhile work so the sooner you get it out the better.


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## dieselknudt (Apr 8, 2014)

Russell.seekins said:


> Also what would you suggest for baler mounted moister tester, I have a brand new 2150 Heston big square as well as a inline Heston small square that's a few years old, I am looking at putting a silo king applicator on both but they do not offer a tester as far as I know.


Agratronix makes a couple of models that seem pretty good. I think that they also build for New Holland.


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## Teslan (Aug 20, 2011)

dieselknudt said:


> Agratronix makes a couple of models that seem pretty good. I think that they also build for New Holland.


NH and AGCO


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## Vol (Jul 5, 2009)

Teslan said:


> NH and AGCO


And Deere...

Regards, Mike


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## Hokelund Farm (Feb 4, 2014)

swmnhay said:


> Yea,I'd work it 3-4" deep with field cultivator,Seed and roll.
> 
> No need to go 6" deep.You want a firm seed bed not a fluffy one.
> 
> If ground is to soft you could roll before drilling also.


If you roll before seeding do you usually roll after as well?


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## swmnhay (Jun 13, 2008)

Hokelund Farm said:


> If you roll before seeding do you usually roll after as well?


Yes.


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