# No Till Drill



## DSLinc1017 (Sep 27, 2009)

The University of Vermont (UVM). Has two no till drills to use at no charge. I'm getting one of them delivered tomorrow. This will be my first time using one, so I'm green! I'm planing on over seeding a few fields that have more weeds than usable grasses in them. Mostly thinking of OG and Timothy. They tell make that the results very greatly. 
Also going to re-seed some pasture fields that desperately need it. 
Any one have any experience using one? As well for any of these types of applications?
I'm on the edge with the weedy fields, should I just plow it under and start from scratch?

Thanks in advance,
Michael.


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## 8350HiTech (Jul 26, 2013)

What manufacturer?

This certainly works but your weeds will be a big issue if you don't control them now. Young timothy is very vulnerable to herbicide so you aren't likely to control the weeds until it has been well established. The pasture ought to work well. Make sure you graze it down SHORT. That will set the established grass back enough, hopefully, to give the new seeding a chance.


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## endrow (Dec 15, 2011)

We sprayed with 2 qts per acre roundup 3 days before planting Sowed 15# alalfa and 5# of tekapo orchard grass....


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## discbinedr (Mar 4, 2013)

Definitely kill your weeds. Any existing live growth will compete with the new seedlings including pasture. Like 8350 said, graze as short as possible. If it's really poor consider burning it off. Only times I've had good success without burndown is in thin alfalfa and covercrops after corn. Even after silage corn I'll occasionally use roundup to eliminate chickweed competition.


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## endrow (Dec 15, 2011)

The two pictures in post above one on left is" one Week after planting " the picture on right is "@ planting time 3 days after sprayed weeds " Hopefully if UMV has a drill you can use they can also advise you on weed control and seeding rate and ADJUSTING THE DRILL TO OBTAIN THE PROPER SEEDING DEPTH . We think notill is best if done properly


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## Hayman1 (Jul 6, 2013)

Don't know about your area but overseeding with timothy is a waste of time and money here. I have tried every combination of drills, seeders time of year etc but don't really see any thickening. Some of the late maturing varieties of OG don't overseed either-many in my area report exactly same results. If you are going to plant timothy, kill the field with roundup and kill it good. Don't use anything else as it will severely reduce germination in the timothy. Even with og there will be some delay in plant time on any effective herbicide you use. I would treat less acreage and do it completely (spray, fertilize, and seed) so you get something tangible for your efforts.

You did not specify the drill name but that makes a real difference. Agree with Endrow-most plant too deep and wonder why they have a bad stand. If you have access to a roller harrow or cultipacker, it never hurts to run over the field after seeding to set the seed completely.


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## bensbales (Jul 18, 2011)

Hey Michael when are you using this drill? i would like to see it in action if you don't mind. Ben


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## DSLinc1017 (Sep 27, 2009)

Thank you!! I already feel like I just saved my self a bunch of money in seed and time. I will try to answer, I don't know the maker of the drill but will this afternoon, I do know that it is 9' with several hoppers. As soon as its here I will take a few pictures. 
I was skeptical about drilling into this one field of heavy weeds, being that the field is leased, I'm in descution with the land owned about the best course of action. Long story short they aren't keen on chemicals, so we may end up plowing it under and starting from scratch. Honestly I think for that one it makes the most sence. Most of my other fields are in much better shape, In those I will attempt to over seed. They are all fertilized and in the process of getting some lime on he ones that tested high. 
UVM will come out and help me set it up, as well take a look at the fields I'm planing on using it on. 
They are interested in this application as most of its use goes towards cover crops over corn. 
As for the pasture areas, some are grazed way down, while another is filled with fescue and none of the animals like it, so I will get those down real low then seed.

It sounds like Timothy is harder to establish by no-till, I may hold off on that, or do a test acre and see how it goes.
I do have access to a packer, and will see about getting in time.

Ben, send me a message and I would be more than happy to meet you and have you see this in action. 
Again thank you all, I will let you know how things go.


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## 8350HiTech (Jul 26, 2013)

Careful with the lime. There can be some strange fluctuations in ph shortly after application. As to the packer, if the drill is any good at all it should have good press wheels. Not sure how another trip with a packer would be any benefit. Hayman1, what brand of drill have you needed to run a packer behind?


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## Hayman1 (Jul 6, 2013)

If you do conventional till on the one field, try teff next summer and early seed timothy. don't know your frost date in spring, but shoot for the teff to go in that day-it will germinate in 3 days saving you the erosion problem. Then you can disc in Sept and plant your timothy for a good stand. I have done timothy no till and gotten a good stand but it is hit or miss. I do think close cut teff in late aug or early sept, spray with ru and plant timothy no till should be a winning formula. Just haven't perfected it yet but I am working on it as I write this. r


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## Colby (Mar 5, 2012)

Tall weeds or grass could effect getting the seaf in the ground.


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## DSLinc1017 (Sep 27, 2009)

Hayman1 said:


> If you do conventional till on the one field, try teff next summer and early seed timothy. don't know your frost date in spring, but shoot for the teff to go in that day-it will germinate in 3 days saving you the erosion problem. Then you can disc in Sept and plant your timothy for a good stand. I have done timothy no till and gotten a good stand but it is hit or miss. I do think close cut teff in late aug or early sept, spray with ru and plant timothy no till should be a winning formula. Just haven't perfected it yet but I am working on it as I write this. r


your saying to do a Teff / Timothy mix, I have seen Teff pop up on the forum, just never really paid any attention to what it was. Just did some reading and you may be right.


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## Hayman1 (Jul 6, 2013)

8350HiTech said:


> Careful with the lime. There can be some strange fluctuations in ph shortly after application. As to the packer, if the drill is any good at all it should have good press wheels. Not sure how another trip with a packer would be any benefit. Hayman1, what brand of drill have you needed to run a packer behind?


I have used a 10' haybuster which is so heavy there is no issue. Also used a 7 ft grt plains. I own a Brillion till and seed which has packer wheels in rear but not the same as spring loaded No till drills. My point was it is just good insurance if you have one available-I wouldn't expend the energy and time to go rent one etc.

My beef with the GP was the trapping of seed in the boot tubes-stores a bunch then releases when you raise, lower or hit a bump so you get gaps. The GPs that I used were all rented and so I wasn't willing to put smooth tubing in the boot tubes-I think that would totally solve the problem. The till and seed uses a deflector pan to spread the seed out then presses it in with teeth and the roller.


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## 8350HiTech (Jul 26, 2013)

I have a GP. Agreed on the seed tubes. I took mine off and shortened them to the extent that they don't do that anymore, though I'm sure it will cause them to crack sooner.


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## Hayman1 (Jul 6, 2013)

DSLinc1017 said:


> your saying to do a Teff / Timothy mix, I have seen Teff pop up on the forum, just never really paid any attention to what it was. Just did some reading and you may be right.


No, that may work also, but I was saying to plant teff as a summer annual, then no till or conventional till timothy in the fall following cutting the teff. The literature suggests that teff mixes aren't the best approach but they may be wrong. I have never heard of planting timothy in the spring with a nurse crop.

Back in the day in Va we always planted wheat as a cover and timothy in early november, harvested the wheat the following July, cut the ragweed in October, and had timothy suddenly emerge the following spring. I don't do that any more since I don't have a combine for the wheat and when you only have a small acreage getting someone to come combine it for you is a struggle. Also takes your hayfield out of production for a year and if you don't have some really desperate cows you don't have a market for the ragweed/stubble in the fall.


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## Hayman1 (Jul 6, 2013)

8350HiTech said:


> I have a GP. Agreed on the seed tubes. I took mine off and shortened them to the extent that they don't do that anymore, though I'm sure it will cause them to crack sooner.


I figured that if you put sprayer tubing inside the segmented tubes and did not connect them at the bottom that you could get a clean drop of seed.


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## 8350HiTech (Jul 26, 2013)

Actually, I shortened the tubes for the large seed box. The small seed tubes I did replace with smooth tubes and added a rigid piece of black PVC on the bottom end so the smooth tube slides inside when I raise and lower the drill. It's how they configure their newer ones. No need to buy a new one when a few bucks of water pipe can solve an engineer's blunder!


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## 8350HiTech (Jul 26, 2013)

I'd still rather have a Deere but the GP was just too cheap to pass on.


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## mlappin (Jun 25, 2009)

One thing that I've found to help greatly in the past when no-tilling alfalfa, make you're first pass at a 30-35 degree angle with the seeding rate set to half of what you want. Make a second pass opposite of the first to cover any spots where the drill might have got it too deep or shallow. This was a 15 foot Great Plains, may not be a problem with a 9 footer. Was also very rolling which is why it was no-tilled instead of worked.


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## Hayman1 (Jul 6, 2013)

well the GPs aren't cheap, they may be just less expensive than Deeres flagship drills. I like the cross drilling concept but my fields are so small it is a pain.


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## 8350HiTech (Jul 26, 2013)

Everything I buy is cheap


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## DSLinc1017 (Sep 27, 2009)

Drill is here, it's a hay buster 107C.

Next question, at this time of year, after seeding OG/blueG/clover How long before its safe to let the sheep back on the pasture? I have a good guess with horses. Our soil varies greatly from sandy loam to hard pack clay. Yes we are In a unique part of the valley.

On another note, Decided to plow under and start from scratch on the field that is all weeds and reed/canary.


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## 8350HiTech (Jul 26, 2013)

Personally, they wouldn't get back on that pasture this year if it was my pasture. New plants are so fragile I'd want them protected until spring. If I had to, I'd maybe put them back on in the winter after everything was frozen and done growing but I'd rather not.


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## 8350HiTech (Jul 26, 2013)

Of you have to graze something this year still, maybe only reseed half and let the sheep in the other half and then do the opposite next fall?


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## DSLinc1017 (Sep 27, 2009)

8350HiTech said:


> Personally, they wouldn't get back on that pasture this year if it was my pasture. New plants are so fragile I'd want them protected until spring. If I had to, I'd maybe put them back on in the winter after everything was frozen and done growing but I'd rather not.


What I was thinking, if it was a new field for sure. Because the ground is not disturbed, perhaps less damage, But those sheep and alpacas can rip the roots if the ground is soft or too wet.
Thanks for the reality check!


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## 8350HiTech (Jul 26, 2013)

The majority of the ground isn't disturbed, but the slot where the seeds are planted is disturbed. So they can certainly pull them out.


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## DSLinc1017 (Sep 27, 2009)

Just got back in from drilling. It was a bit of a rough start as the nice folks from UVM had some hoses to install and switch over. This drill had some added seed tubes behind the cutters just before the packers. Long story short, the seed tubes from the factory had some metal burs left over from fabrication, that was holding back the seeds. The new tubes had some moisture in them. The tubes clogged, had to add grafite to the seeds. Then last but not least the new tubes are to short, so when a singular drill head hits a divit the hose would come off. 
I spent a lot of time on and off the tractor reinstalling the %#@$ tubes !!!! 
Other than the he drill works great. 
I have another 5 acres to do in the morning then that's it for the season. 
Time will tell on the results. 
Ended up over seeding a few runs of field that didn't need it on the test runs. I'm curios to see the results. 
If all goes well ill be no till drilling some timmothy next spring summer.

Want to send out a big thanks to Bensbales for coming out this afternoon and lending a hand and checking out this drill. As well for everyone's advice on this adventure. It's all very much appreciated. Thank You.


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## Hayman1 (Jul 6, 2013)

DSLinc1017 said:


> Just got back in from drilling. It was a bit of a rough start as the nice folks from UVM had some hoses to install and switch over. This drill had some added seed tubes behind the cutters just before the packers. Long story short, the seed tubes from the factory had some metal burs left over from fabrication, that was holding back the seeds. The new tubes had some moisture in them. The tubes clogged, had to add grafite to the seeds. Then last but not least the new tubes are to short, so when a singular drill head hits a divit the hose would come off.
> I spent a lot of time on and off the tractor reinstalling the %#@$ tubes !!!!


and this is more evidence on why eventually, we all buy our own drills, even if we can't afford or justify them. I spent so much time cleaning out adjusting or fixing rented drills that I finally gave in and purchased one.


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## rjmoses (Apr 4, 2010)

*Every Time! (notice the bold and italics--I do mean every time!) *I rented the no-till drill or Brillion seeder from the NRCS office, I had to spend at least 2 hours cleaning and repairing their equipment. Last year, I returned the drill because it simply wasn't usable!

I know it's government property, but that doesn't mean I can use it and abuse it! Two parties are at fault here: The renter for tearing up the equipment and the NRCS for not checking/enforcing/maintaining the equipment every time it's used.

Geez--Must've struck a nerve!

Ralph


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## whitmerlegacyfarm (Aug 26, 2011)

I have rented a Great Plains no till drill 7ft from our county about 3 times now in the last 2 1/2 years. First year when I overseeded in spring no luck what so ever. The ground needs to be all but bear from my experience. Last year I plowed a field and used it on that 2 ac and also used it on a 2 ac field I round up. Both came up very nice in fall and made nice hay fields this year. I just got done planting 12 ac last week. 12ac of free lease ground that I round up'd and drilled in O grass, will see how it goes.

Good luck


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## slowzuki (Mar 8, 2011)

The land conservation group here rents a notill drill out from one of its members but it is fairly expensive. The reason why? It comes with the owner who is also the operator. The up side is it is always in fantastic condition and gives good stands as the operator knows the drill and settings for various conditions.

A downside is he does not like no-tilling into rocky fields like some of ours!


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## FCF (Apr 23, 2010)

rjmoses said:


> *Every Time! (notice the bold and italics--I do mean every time!) *I rented the no-till drill or Brillion seeder from the NRCS office, I had to spend at least 2 hours cleaning and repairing their equipment. Last year, I returned the drill because it simply wasn't usable!
> 
> I know it's government property, but that doesn't mean I can use it and abuse it! Two parties are at fault here: The renter for tearing up the equipment and the NRCS for not checking/enforcing/maintaining the equipment every time it's used.
> 
> ...


Same here! I have rented the drill and spent time to get it cleaned out, etc. Got a poor stand this past spring, about 20%. Went back to check on the drill for this fall and was told the board had just decided to repair it. Their options were repair, replace or not offer one for rent. Why- because someone had abused the drill this past spring- bent opening discs and their holders and not said anything about it.

Same as your goverment property statment above!

Don't know what will happen to the rental rate, was told it was going to cost between 1/4 to 1/3 of a new drill for repairs.


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## aawhite (Jan 16, 2012)

Agencies renting out drills need to learn to treat it the same way a rental car agency does: owner and renter inspect the machine at pick-up, note any issues, then send it out. Renter gets billed for repairs if he brings it back trashed.


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## Hayman1 (Jul 6, 2013)

aawhite said:


> Agencies renting out drills need to learn to treat it the same way a rental car agency does: owner and renter inspect the machine at pick-up, note any issues, then send it out. Renter gets billed for repairs if he brings it back trashed.


AW- I agree totally with your thoughts, but in side conversations with the guys that have to deliver these rental beasts, they all want to get rid of the programs because they are a total PITA. One time the GP came to my farm missing a shank and the prior user had left it outside in the rain with coated OG seed in it. totally set up and everything was plugged. That DA should have been charged tripple for just being a dittlehead. Of course, took no responsibility, blamed on hired help stupidity-the help he hired! I have spent a lot of time calibrating various drills adn seeders. Those fine adjustments on depth and rate are really important which is why we go back to you need your own seeder or drill and set and optimize it for how you work.


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## mlappin (Jun 25, 2009)

Most of the complaints about rental drills is the same reason we bought our own fertilizer spreaders years ago. Either had to wait to get one from the elevator or co-op then it was broke, about to break, or was a POS to start with even if it worked.


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## DSLinc1017 (Sep 27, 2009)

Hayman1 said:


> and this is more evidence on why eventually, we all buy our own drills, even if we can't afford or justify them. I spent so much time cleaning out adjusting or fixing rented drills that I finally gave in and purchased one.


I hear you! And have purchased my share of gear after a bad experience. For my operation, free is worth it. Not only that its delivered to what ever field I need it in. 
Had a good conversation with the UVM folks today about the issues I had, and the are going to address them. The fact is this is the second full year for them and these drills, so there are a few kinks to be worked out.


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## DSLinc1017 (Sep 27, 2009)

DSLinc1017 said:


> I hear you! And have purchased my share of gear after a bad experience. For my operation, free is worth it. Not only that its delivered to what ever field I need it in.
> Had a good conversation with the UVM folks today about the issues I had, and the are going to address them. The fact is this is the second full year for them and these drills, so there are a few kinks to be worked out.


I should add, Not that I dont hear what y'all are saying. In defense of the great folks who came out from UVM and that program. Two people came out to teach and help calibrate the drill for what I was planing to use it for. YES, it wasn't working as it should have. But again in their defense, they care about the local farms and are really trying to help. One of the staff is a retired dairy farmer who has a life time of knowlage to give, the other younger fellow was very knowlagable about crops. 
So I guess what in trying to say.... In the long run, besides a few technical issues that will hopefully be straitend out. I learned a bunch from them. In this day and age having folks come to your farm for free (free is a loose term, I pay plenty of taxes to a state university) is a good thing!

Don't get me wrong, still pissed I spent more time than I planed fixing the dame thing in the field!


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## aawhite (Jan 16, 2012)

As far as drilling goes, really need to watch your seed depth, it can be tough to keep consistent when no-tilling. Alfalfa was the worst, as a little variation can have a huge impact on emergence. We ran a 10' JD 750 and a 15' JD 1560 for years. The 750 didn't do too bad, but when we traded off for the bigger drill, had lots of issues drilling alfalfa. Just couldn't maintain consistent seed depth. We ended up building a bar system that would lock the drill at depth. It helped, but still didn't have great stands. We eventually went back to a Brillion seeder and conventional tillage for our alfalfa


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## DSLinc1017 (Sep 27, 2009)

This Drill's depth was set with stops on on the down pressure. I can see even with that and fields that haven't been tilled for 40+ years where the depth wasn't going to be perfect. Time will tell of the results.


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## eam77 (Aug 4, 2013)

I see this thread started from Vermont. I'm from a radically different area, southwest Arkansas. I can rent a no-till drill from a government agency at the county seat, 30 miles away, for $5 acre. Now that is pretty cheap compared to owning the equipment. I use no-till for ryegrass, other cool-season annuals, and sometimes, sorghum-sudan.

These no-till drills are too expensive for most people to own. The new equipment that I have priced was $24 to $32K. I have made a few offers on used equipment, but have not bought anything yet (even used stuff goes $10 to $20K). These prices are more than a good tractor was not so long ago. One of my compromises is that I bought an old (and did a lot of rebuild) conventional drill (not no-till) and use it the places that I can. Last fall I did about 50 acres conventional till drill, and then rented the no-till for about 23 acres. The drills I can rent are 7 feet GP "solid stand" and a 10 feet JD 1560. They work good, but I have to work on them most times, and always, there is an hour or more of setting and calibration.

I would buy a new no-till drill if I thought I could get my neighbors to hire me to do theirs. By neighbors, I mean within 10-12 miles max. In my countryside, I doubt if more than 5% of land owners do any cattle or hay. But even far better, if one of my near local neighbors would buy a new drill and I could hire him.


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## DSLinc1017 (Sep 27, 2009)

eam77 said:


> I see this thread started from Vermont. I'm from a radically different area, southwest Arkansas. I can rent a no-till drill from a government agency at the county seat, 30 miles away, for $5 acre. Now that is pretty cheap compared to owning the equipment. I use no-till for ryegrass, other cool-season annuals, and sometimes, sorghum-sudan.
> 
> These no-till drills are too expensive for most people to own. The new equipment that I have priced was $24 to $32K. I have made a few offers on used equipment, but have not bought anything yet (even used stuff goes $10 to $20K). These prices are more than a good tractor was not so long ago. One of my compromises is that I bought an old (and did a lot of rebuild) conventional drill (not no-till) and use it the places that I can. Last fall I did about 50 acres conventional till drill, and then rented the no-till for about 23 acres. The drills I can rent are 7 feet GP "solid stand" and a 10 feet JD 1560. They work good, but I have to work on them most times, and always, there is an hour or more of setting and calibration.
> 
> I would buy a new no-till drill if I thought I could get my neighbors to hire me to do theirs. By neighbors, I mean within 10-12 miles max. In my countryside, I doubt if more than 5% of land owners do any cattle or hay. But even far better, if one of my near local neighbors would buy a new drill and I could hire him.


Hello eam77 
I wouldn't say radically that different, I've spent many years in North Carolina and eastern Tennessee, Not to far from you, you certainly have a much longer growing season, and a hell of a lot more humidity! Your soil is this funny red color, but other than that we are of the same brotheren. 
I would absolutely agree that these drills are very expensive. For this reason I'm fortunate that we (Vermonters) have the opertunity to use them at no cost. 
One of the main reasons that this program has come around is because we have a big problems with soil erosion and fosferace getting into our water ways. Particularly this large body of water they call lake Champlain. So most of the uses are for cover crops.


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## FarmerCline (Oct 12, 2011)

DSLinc1017 said:


> Hello eam77
> I wouldn't say radically that different, I've spent many years in North Carolina and eastern Tennessee, Not to far from you, you certainly have a much longer growing season, and a hell of a lot more humidity! Your soil is this funny red color, but other than that we are of the same brotheren.
> I would absolutely agree that these drills are very expensive. For this reason I'm fortunate that we (Vermonters) have the opertunity to use them at no cost.
> One of the main reasons that this program has come around is because we have a big problems with soil erosion and fosferace getting into our water ways. Particularly this large body of water they call lake Champlain. So most of the uses are for cover crops.


 What parts of NC were you in? Just curious about Vermont as I have never been in that part of the country, how long typically are your winters and what are your normal summer high temps, What all types of crops are grown up that way?


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## DSLinc1017 (Sep 27, 2009)

FarmerCline said:


> What parts of NC were you in? Just curious about Vermont as I have never been in that part of the country, how long typically are your winters and what are your normal summer high temps, What all types of crops are grown up that way?


I could write a bookworm tho those questions lol. 
I was in Winston Salem, then in Sweet Water Tennessee. 
Vermont is a beautiful place to live, we have 5 seasons here, the fifth is called mud, comes after winter and spring. When the frost leaves the ground... Summers can be hot and humid but typicaly in the upper 70's and 80's winters can be long and cold, but dry, and dry cold is a lot different than some of that damp cold stuff of NC, I prefer 20deg and dry than 32 and damp. We get on average 100 inches of snow. Frost date varies on location in the state and depends on elevation, in the valley we are September 15th to April 15th. 
The weather as it seems like every ware is changing. Our winters are warmer, our summers linger on, and spring is missed, we go from mud season right into summer. 
Our crops are mostly corn and hay, however beans are becoming very popular. Other farmers like Bensbales will have better insite into crops, as I just do hay and am a small operation compared to others in the area. I can tell you that the large dairy farm that does our custom large squares just got a bean head for his combine. 
Vermont used to have mostly small family dairy farms. Those days are gone, and have have been going out of business at an alarming rate. Large dairy operations are the only way to make money in dairy. 
Horse farms are growing in the north east. It's great for the hay business! In fact in NH, there are now more horses than cows. 
You should take a trip north, Especialy if you've never been. One of the first things you will notice is no billboards, and small comical signs. 
Let me know if you plan it! 
Cheers,


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## FarmerCline (Oct 12, 2011)

DSLinc1017 said:


> I could write a bookworm tho those questions lol.
> I was in Winston Salem, then in Sweet Water Tennessee.
> Vermont is a beautiful place to live, we have 5 seasons here, the fifth is called mud, comes after winter and spring. When the frost leaves the ground... Summers can be hot and humid but typicaly in the upper 70's and 80's winters can be long and cold, but dry, and dry cold is a lot different than some of that damp cold stuff of NC, I prefer 20deg and dry than 32 and damp. We get on average 100 inches of snow. Frost date varies on location in the state and depends on elevation, in the valley we are September 15th to April 15th.
> The weather as it seems like every ware is changing. Our winters are warmer, our summers linger on, and spring is missed, we go from mud season right into summer.
> ...


 I'm about a hour and a half west of Winston Salem right off of I 40 a little town called Valdese. 
Thanks for your summary of Vermont, I don't know if I could stand the long winters....100 inches of snow per year...wow...probably all the snow I have seen in my life fall here might not amount to that. I have been all over the American west but have never been north of Pennsylvania. I guess sometime I will have to plan a trip to see that part of the country. What is the prettiest season to take a trip up that way? I'm guessing not winter or mud.


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## DSLinc1017 (Sep 27, 2009)

FarmerCline said:


> I'm about a hour and a half west of Winston Salem right off of I 40 a little town called Valdese.
> Thanks for your summary of Vermont, I don't know if I could stand the long winters....100 inches of snow per year...wow...probably all the snow I have seen in my life fall here might not amount to that. I have been all over the American west but have never been north of Pennsylvania. I guess sometime I will have to plan a trip to see that part of the country. What is the prettiest season to take a trip up that way? I'm guessing not winter or mud.


I know Valdese, just past Hickory, nice rolling country, on the edge of the piedmont.

Most folks come for the fall colors, we call them leaf peepers, peepers for short. Winter can be really magical, summers are awesome! 
100 inches of snow a year might be a stretch, I just know that number from standard building codes for roofs. 
If you do come up this way, plan on going into the white mountains of NH, and the coast of Maine. 
Hay on!


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## Bonfire (Oct 21, 2012)

DSLinc1017 said:


> You should take a trip north, Especialy if you've never been. One of the first things you will notice is no billboards, and small comical signs.
> Let me know if you plan it!
> Cheers,


Let's see. I would have to go around Maryland. At the New York border, I would probably have to turn around and go home. All because of what I carry on my ankle.

I bet I could reciprocate into Northern Colorado without any problems. As for Colorado, can't do it. Givem' hell Weld County.


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## DSLinc1017 (Sep 27, 2009)

Bonfire said:


> Let's see. I would have to go around Maryland. At the New York border, I would probably have to turn around and go home. All because of what I carry on my ankle.
> I bet I could reciprocate into Northern Colorado without any problems. As for Colorado, can't do it. Givem' hell Weld County.


If I read thought the lines.... What you carry in on you ankle isn't a problem in Vermont. As we have some of the most lax laws in these United States. Carry what ever you like in or out of plane site, we don't have permits to issue.


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## bensbales (Jul 18, 2011)

DSLinc1017 said:


> Our crops are mostly corn and hay, however beans are becoming very popular. Other farmers like Bensbales will have better insite into crops, as I just do hay and am a small operation compared to others in the area. I can tell you that the large dairy farm that does our custom large squares just got a bean head for his combine.
> Vermont used to have mostly small family dairy farms. Those days are gone, and have have been going out of business at an alarming rate. Large dairy operations are the only way to make money in dairy.
> Horse farms are growing in the north east. It's great for the hay business! In fact in NH, there are now more horses than cows.
> You should take a trip north, Especialy if you've never been. One of the first things you will notice is no billboards, and small comical signs.
> ...


Some other Vermont crops are apples, veggies, maple syrup,berries, christmas trees and on a small scale organic wheat and barley. Vermont has a diverse mix of farmers on one side of town you might have someone milking 20 cows selling raw organic milk, butter and cheese and on the other side you have someone milking 1200 and everything in between.


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## DSLinc1017 (Sep 27, 2009)

Thought y'all might like an update of the effectiveness of the drill. Within 3 days the clover came up. As of the last day the OG and blue in the pasture is starting to show in abundance. I drilled in at about 15 pounds per acre.


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## DSLinc1017 (Sep 27, 2009)

A section in one of our pastures of the no till at work, no I didn't put the apples in for scale but it does work! 45%OG, 45%Blue. 10% clover. give or take!


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## DSLinc1017 (Sep 27, 2009)

Here is the picture!


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