# MF12 baler baling loose bales



## tnwalkingred (Jun 8, 2010)

I have a MF12 baler and it seems like no matter what adjustments I have done to it I still can't get a good tight bale. Any suggestions???????

Kyle


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## sedurbin (May 30, 2009)

Keep cranking it down until it gets tight. It has to tighten up unless you have something broken with your tensioner. The first few bales will be loose until the resistance builds up as the bale case gets fully packed. The only adjustment that really effects the bale density is the cranks on top behind the knotters.


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## mlappin (Jun 25, 2009)

Not sure about a MF baler, but NH's had wedges in the chamber as well, are they missing from your baler?


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## tnwalkingred (Jun 8, 2010)

I'm not sure if my baler has wedges in it or not. I will look when when I get a chance. If I don't have wedges in it where would I find some or how would I be able to make some? Thanks for all your help.

Kyle


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## vickeryfarms1 (Jan 30, 2011)

Been running a #12 about 3 years now. The biggest problem we have when getting loose bales is the size of the windrow and your ground speed. We try to keep the throat full and run at a decent ground speed, but be careful not to run to fast or crowd it to much due to shearing the pin and possibly baleing the fingers up in the chamber. The #12 is an old but reliable baler but this is one of their downfalls as far as going to fast. Sometimes in light hay we will rake 2-3 windrows together to have 1 good windrow.


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## Northeast Hay (Apr 8, 2010)

I have a 124 and totaly agree with victoryfarm1. Also I added wedges to mine and it seemed to help. You can order them through the MF dealer. I think they were about 26 dollars a piece


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## Lazy J (Jul 18, 2008)

What is the quality of your windrows? Poor windrows equal loose bales.

If you have good windrows and keep the baler 'full' and still have loose bale then you need to follow the advice posted earlier.

Jim


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## Toyes Hill Angus (Dec 21, 2010)

...not sure about the MF, but NH uses dogs that are spring loaded to hold the new flake against the bale in the chamber. These springs can break and allow the dogs to simply not do their job, wich can make it harder to get a full feed of hay into the plunger since it never realy clears out after the plunger stroke. keeping the throat of the baler full is usually the main factor. How many flakes are in one of your bales? I try to stay around 10 flakes for a 38" bale, they keep nice shape and are firm enough to build a house with.
Too few flakes(too fast) or no flakes(too slow, the baler never has enough hay per stoke to form a flake) at all means you need to adjust your speed in the field. Good Luck


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## tnwalkingred (Jun 8, 2010)

Thanks for all your inof guys. My baler does not have wedges in it so I think I will add them and see if it helps. I also found a broken spring in it as well however I'm not sure the name of the piece it came off of. I'm going to the MF dealership today so hopefully I will get it figured out. We are going to replace the spring I found broke as well as to add the wedges this week and bale a few bales to see how it works. Thanks again.

Kyle


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## tnwalkingred (Jun 8, 2010)

How many wedges would you guys recommend to install?


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## mlappin (Jun 25, 2009)

Our had one in each side if I remember right. Could the broken spring be off a hay dog?


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## Toyes Hill Angus (Dec 21, 2010)

I have six in my baler, i like bales like a brick. Also, be cautious about leaving the wedges in if you bale any wheat or barley straw (possibly other grains as well) the dust and dirt off of the straw will begin to collect at the wedges. I have seen collection build up to the point of having a lump the size of a volleyball sticking into the chamber this leads to burnt slip clutches, and even bent crank arms let alone the frustration of constantly changing shear bolts. It is easily missed, even the big square bale operators had ALOT of trouble here 2 seasons ago. But I was told that they call em HAY wedges for a reason...


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## Northeast Hay (Apr 8, 2010)

Mine had one set of wedges when I got it and I added another, I may go one more this year. Thats the max mine will take is 3 sets


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## tnwalkingred (Jun 8, 2010)

The spring I found broke was off of one of the twine fingers. I went to the MF dealership today and got two new ones and also ordered a set of wedges. They were 50 bucks a piece and I thought that was pretty high but oh well. Hopefully they will help. Thanks for all the good info guys.

Kyle


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## mf124gy (Jun 16, 2009)

My MF124 baler (two-twine, small squares) is set up for three pairs of wedges, but it only came with one pair. So I welded up two more pairs out of scrap steel channel and bar stock. An easy job. You can see the original wedges installed in the bale chamber. I haven't had a chance to use the new wedge yet.

View attachment 1301
View attachment 1300


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## carcajou (Jan 28, 2011)

I run with 4 in my 124. Was that broken spring on the dogs just in front of the knotters? If so replace it and keep the chaff from building up under the dogs.


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## Tyler B (Jan 23, 2011)

I've owned MF 10's & 12's, same issue. We found 3 sets of wedges, and keep the springs fresh was key to a nice bale. Crank those springs all the way down and work back a couple cranck at a time. Also, watch the "thumbs" on your knotter, you may need to dress them up with a file a bit if they are rounded & worn.


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## Barry Bowen (Nov 16, 2009)

Sounds like you need to take a good look over your baler. Check the hay dog springs, wedges will help, check timing and clearances on your knotters. Window row size is critical! How fast or slow you feed it in is critical. To little hay equals light bales, too much hay equals too tight bales. You need to keep a good steady feed most of all. Most baler problems are operator problems or inexperience, not machine problems. Personally I have gone to help people having problems with a particular baler, jumped on his tractor, and the baler ran fine for me. I watched the owner operate and the teaching would begin. Baling is an art, not a science.


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