# Vermeer or John Deere Round Balers?



## superflea (Dec 30, 2014)

Currently have a Vermeer 554XL 2001 model. Looking to buy a new or good used round baler. Never had any major issues with my 554XL, just normal wear and tear maintenance. Looking into net wrap, or a combo of net wrap and twine. So far I have been looking at JD and Vermeer. Any thoughts on which baler you think is better. JD or Vermeer?


----------



## swmnhay (Jun 13, 2008)

I'm going to go get some popcorn


----------



## r82230 (Mar 1, 2016)

swmnhay said:


> I'm going to go get some popcorn


Are you willing to share any of that popcorn or you going to pig it all to yourself. 

Larry


----------



## Tx Jim (Jun 30, 2014)

Please may I have "hot buttered" popcorn?


----------



## bbos2 (Mar 20, 2015)

I think a lot depends on what you are baling. Use to run deere and got a lot of good years out of the one we use to own. But I dodnt like it in cornstalks.
I have zero experience with a Vermeer but it seems like they are awesome at eating cornstalks... I think they make a cornstalk special. I brefely looked at a Vermeer when we started baling stalks again. I'd like to run one they seem like a better round baler. I'd probably lean that way if we ever got back into a round baler. There will be more knowledgeable round baler guys around shortly. I'm not one of them

Not sure why popcorn is needed but now I'm hungry...


----------



## Widairy (Jan 1, 2016)

I have had both and both companies make a good baler. The only reason I upgraded balers was for net wrap, my old 535 John Deere only had twine. The biggest reason I went with a Vermeer was for the bale running on top of a metal roller while forming the bale instead of just riding on the belts. I figured for making corkstalks in my area that difference would probably save a few cut belts from all the stones that tend to end up in the stalks.

Both make good machines.

Now when I've looked at trading my Vermeer towards a baler with roto cut for making baleage the Deere would have held it's resale value much better. I wasn't concerned with that at the time. Just something to think about if you're going to go for a new baler.


----------



## carcajou (Jan 28, 2011)

I bought a new Vermeer 605N , good baler and ordered a new JD 569, good baler. Does that help lol. Pass the popcorn please.


----------



## swmnhay (Jun 13, 2008)

Well I only have kettle corn. 

To ask if JD,NH or Vermeer is better is like asking if Chevy,Dodge or Ford is better.Now days the current generation balers are all good,it's more about personel preference.I'd say every brand has had issues in the past but they have pretty much perfected the rd balers.

I do run Vermeer so thats what I like.Built heavy.Have a good dealer with a good service dept,IF i need them.If you liked the XL anything newer is leaps and bounds ahead of that.


----------



## somedevildawg (Jun 20, 2011)

Deere has purtier paint


----------



## stack em up (Mar 7, 2013)

somedevildawg said:


> Deere has purtier paint


SHENANIGANS! SHENANIGANS!

You really shouldn't HayTalk drunk dawg, it looks bad...


----------



## PaMike (Dec 7, 2013)

Where is Snowball when you need him! He could explain how that Deere net wrap system works....


----------



## Waterway64 (Dec 2, 2011)

I am a Vermeer fan but objectively you are talking the two best brands on the market. Go with the best deal.


----------



## somedevildawg (Jun 20, 2011)

easy Waterway.....them NH folk will have you tar and feathered for that off handed remark  
Oh, BTW....welcome to Haytalk superflea, all in lighthearted fun, this is a topic that will ignite passions as deep as FORD/chevy/dodge. (Sorry, couldn't help it  ). Hope y'all are getting some of this blessed rain!


----------



## IHCman (Aug 27, 2011)

Vermeer gets my vote. Its all I've ever run.

I really don't think you'll be disappointed with either Vermeer or John Deere. Both are good. I really like the rubber mounted teeth and the simple net wrap system that Vermeer has.


----------



## TJH (Mar 23, 2014)

It's your choice, your decision, your MONEY, do what floats your boat. GOOD LUCK!


----------



## MFSuper90 (Jun 26, 2015)

I'm not a round bale guy by any means. But I do like to observe and learn from the people in my area. They're is a guy who bleeds red thru and thru, however he runs a deere baler. There is a guy who is die hard new Holland and runs a Vermeer baler. A good friend of mine runs a newer case and said he would love to see it burn some day. We also have a local guy that I hire to round bale my rained on hay, he runs a Vermeer, that baler caught fire and rolled down a hill and he's still using it (he replaced the belts and tires tho). Just my observation I see people like both. 
If it were up to me I'd be running a Vermeer. They just seem to build stuff a little heavier.


----------



## carcajou (Jan 28, 2011)

3/4 of a ton heavier, quite noticeable when pulling hills.


----------



## Tx Jim (Jun 30, 2014)

carcajou said:


> 3/4 of a ton heavier, quite noticeable when pulling hills.


IMHO that 3/4 ton heavier of Vermeer baler over JD will tend to pack the soil more. I've baled over 150,000 bales with JD rd balers and never had any frame or tongue problems so I see no advantage for the extra weight.of a Vermeer rd baler. I've baled corn stalks although not as thick as "Corn belt stalks" with my JD 467 rd baler following my 14 wheel rake spread out to cover maximum rows with no problems. Granted I've heard of some JD balers that have holes worn in the chamber side sheets but that's never happened on my balers. JD even sell side sheet replacements that weld in place. JD baler I traded off for present baler had 30,000 bales on it & present baler has around 23,000 bales on it.


----------



## Troy Farmer (Jul 31, 2011)

This was my choice last year. Went from red to green.


----------



## swmnhay (Jun 13, 2008)

Tx Jim said:


> IMHO that 3/4 ton heavier of Vermeer baler over JD will tend to pack the soil more. .


If 1500lbs extra is a issue with compaction I wonder what the Lg Sq guys do when their balers are 15,000 lbs heavier or the guys chopping haylage with self propelled choppers with semis driveing along side. 

I'd say the tractor pulling it causes more compaction than any round baler.If compaction was even a issue.


----------



## stack em up (Mar 7, 2013)

I'm gonna have to agree with Cy. 1500 pounds isn't much, especially if those 1500 are sitting on larger tires. Your ground pressure may be less on the heavier baler than the light one. I have no dog in this fight, I run a MF/Hesston. Works fine for me, but pretty sure my next one will be a New Holland.


----------



## Lewis Ranch (Jul 15, 2013)

I've been happy with my new 469 this year but have not had another brand baler. I don't think you can go wrong with any of them it's all about dealer support, here Deere is king although your area may differ.


----------



## VA Haymaker (Jul 1, 2014)

I have friends with New Holland, Deere and Vermeer round balers. All are newer balers. Everyone comments on how tighter, more square cornered their bales are and how mich easier they are to run - than their previous/older baler.

I'd say pick the dealer and parts situation you can live with and buy that baler.

YMMV...

Bill


----------



## r82230 (Mar 1, 2016)

Tx Jim said:


> IMHO that 3/4 ton heavier of Vermeer baler over JD will tend to pack the soil more.


Correct me if I am wrong, but compaction could go either way (JD more or Vermeer more) depending upon tire size and pressure.

My understanding is a smaller foot print / higher tire pressure, more PSI on the ground (eg compaction force) more compaction. Larger foot print / lower tire pressure, less PSI on the ground, less compaction.

If I stand on a big enough board out in the barn yard, I don't sink as much as my light weight grandson does with no board (and I out weight him at least 2-1).

This is where triples on a tractor will go places where the same tractor can't with singles (with same given weight).

Someone mention putting bigger tire on their grain cart this fall on HT, with similar results.

My two pennies

Larry


----------



## hog987 (Apr 5, 2011)

In my mind compaction in a hay field is really only a concern under two situations.
1- your making rutts on soft soil.
2- you happen to run over my foot.


----------



## Tx Jim (Jun 30, 2014)

stack em up said:


> I'm gonna have to agree with Cy. 1500 pounds isn't much, especially if those 1500 are sitting on larger tires. Your ground pressure may be less on the heavier baler than the light one. I have no dog in this fight, I run a MF/Hesston. Works fine for me, but pretty sure my next one will be a New Holland.


Read your tractors operators manual and I'll bet it states to remove frt &/or rear wheel weights when not required to avoid soil compaction & excess fuel consumption


----------



## Tx Jim (Jun 30, 2014)

hog987 said:


> In my mind compaction in a hay field is really only a concern under two situations.
> 1- your making rutts on soft soil.
> 2- you happen to run over my foot.


Then why do hay producers spend 1000's of $$$$$$$$ on soil aerators not to mention the fuel & labor required to pull the aerators?


----------



## Vol (Jul 5, 2009)

I think in many instances that aerators are over-rated....and the results are very very minimal. There are circumstances where they are beneficial.

Regards, Mike


----------



## r82230 (Mar 1, 2016)

Never seen a man made aerator in the field, just some city folks using on their lawns once in a great while IN my area. I have natural aerators (earth worms) and that's why I like no-till. I don't cut their holes/tunnels, but then I don't cut them up so much either (which could double the amount if both ends of the worm survived). 

Larry


----------



## swmnhay (Jun 13, 2008)

Tx Jim said:


> Then why do hay producers spend 1000's of $$$$$$$$ on soil aerators not to mention the fuel & labor required to pull the aerators?


Never seen a hayfield aerated here ever


----------



## carcajou (Jan 28, 2011)

On our hayland i would have to try real hard to have compaction issues. I can't see how a healthy field would every need to be aerated, the root system does it. We load trucks at an approach to a field, sometimes 400 maybe 500 bales in the same spot year after year. Still need to cut the approach every cutting. If a spot in a field needed aerated it is likely to wet to grow much of anything anyway.

That extra 1500 lbs only matters pulling up an incline, in fact if my fields were all level i would pull a cart behind my balers like a guy here does. Puts two bales tight side to side, definitely makes picking the fields off much faster.

The Vermeer with it's big tires rolls over the fields much easier than the small rubber on the 567's.


----------



## Tim/South (Dec 12, 2011)

Looking at tractor data, some of the older 55 series Deers can weigh 4,000 lb. more than the same horse power in an M series. 4255 vs 6130M

If compaction is going to be a valid argument then tractor weight need to be added to the equation.

I went with Vermeer when I bought the new baler. I like the bale starting on a roller and not needing tractor tread belts to start the roll.

Net is not as easy to load but the net wrap application is a lot more simple to me.


----------



## somedevildawg (Jun 20, 2011)

stack em up said:


> I'm gonna have to agree with Cy. 1500 pounds isn't much, especially if those 1500 are sitting on larger tires. Your ground pressure may be less on the heavier baler than the light one. I have no dog in this fight, I run a MF/Hesston. Works fine for me, but pretty sure my next one will be a New Holland.


No it isn't much but the tires could be the same size, Deere has the same size tire, and it's still 1500# heavier which definitely results in poorer fuel economy and more compaction......besides that, that damned yeller is ugly  unless it's on a trencher, backhoe or directional bore rig......


----------



## somedevildawg (Jun 20, 2011)

The only drawback of the Deere,to me, is the wild ride the net has to take on every bale ejection.....I've seen a few problems associated with that.....


----------



## somedevildawg (Jun 20, 2011)

I aerate my fields every spring, not as deep as I would like, but I still do it......as mike eluded to, the test results are a mixed bag. Folks that do it swear by it, research doesn't show as marked a increase on field production.....


----------



## Colby (Mar 5, 2012)

hog987 said:


> In my mind compaction in a hay field is really only a concern under two situations.
> 1- your making rutts on soft soil.
> 2- you happen to run over my foot.


Smartest thing I've read all day. Field compaction as to making the ground to hard like they write about in articles is a myth. 
1500 extra pounds is the only thing I don't like about Vermeer baler's. John Deere baler's have been to heavy for me the past two years. One thing I can't stand about John Deere baler's is how dirty they get and how hard they are to clean out.


----------



## Lewis Ranch (Jul 15, 2013)

Colby said:


> Smartest thing I've read all day. Field compaction as to making the ground to hard like they write about in articles is a myth.
> 1500 extra pounds is the only thing I don't like about Vermeer baler's. John Deere baler's have been to heavy for me the past two years. One thing I can't stand about John Deere baler's is how dirty they get and how hard they are to clean out.


A Stihl leaf blower and 5 minutes that baler will be clean.


----------



## carcajou (Jan 28, 2011)

Lewis Ranch said:


> A Stihl leaf blower and 5 minutes that baler will be clean.


Yup 5 mins on a John Deere 15 mins on a Vermeer 605N. Really damn annoying. I need to make some changes on ours before the next season including taking the side doors off. Had a good talk with a Vermeer rep about it a few months ago.


----------



## Gearclash (Nov 25, 2010)

> I need to make some changes on ours before the next season including taking the side doors off.


Yea, there are certain sheetmetal parts that have a problem with falling off my balers. h34r: h34r:


----------



## IHCman (Aug 27, 2011)

swmnhay said:


> Never seen a hayfield aerated here ever


That could be because of the frost in the winter.

They say to check for compaction to dig a hole with a spade and see how much force is required to get the spade into the ground in the field compared with out on the border of the field where there has been no wheel traffic. I've never done that but I have dug a lot of post holes around here. The only places I've seen compaction that made it hard to dig was in the yard where we drove a lot and places around waterers and in the corrals where cattle walked a lot.



carcajou said:


> Yup 5 mins on a John Deere 15 mins on a Vermeer 605N. Really damn annoying. I need to make some changes on ours before the next season including taking the side doors off. Had a good talk with a Vermeer rep about it a few months ago.


I will say that is one thing I don't like on our Super M is that double wall between the bale chamber and the ends of the rollers. Kind of a bugger to keep clean. Certainly takes a little longer to blow out. I can't see how a leaf blower would have enough air flow compared to an air compressor but I've never been around a leaf blower. The one chain on the lower left side is a bugger to clean out too. Sometimes makes me wonder why I oil my chains as dusty and dirty as they are after a few minutes baling.


----------



## IH 1586 (Oct 16, 2014)

Lewis Ranch said:


> A Stihl leaf blower and 5 minutes that baler will be clean.


Bought one this year. Best thing I have done for cleaning, used to clean all chaff out by hand after baling everyday before oiling chains.


----------



## stack em up (Mar 7, 2013)

I keep trying to find a good meme of a guy beating a dead horse....


----------



## carcajou (Jan 28, 2011)

stack em up said:


> I keep trying to find a good meme of a guy beating a dead horse....


Any pic of Donald Trump will do then.


----------



## Lewis Ranch (Jul 15, 2013)

My major complaint is the twine boxes, they hold so much dang chaff and I have never run twine on any of my Deere balers but I'm worried the day I take em out I'll need it.


----------



## Gearclash (Nov 25, 2010)

Lewis Ranch said:


> My major complaint is the twine boxes, they hold so much dang chaff and I have never run twine on any of my Deere balers but I'm worried the day I take em out I'll need it.


I take the twine box off the actuator side of my New Holland balers as they trap trash over the net actuator. The other box I leave on to store supplies in, like chain lube . I thought this fall it would be nice to put a lid on the twine box and make it fairly dust proof. Yet another winter project . . . not that I needed more!

The odds that I need to ever wrap with twine are only slightly better than taking a trip to the moon.


----------



## somedevildawg (Jun 20, 2011)

Lewis Ranch said:


> My major complaint is the twine boxes, they hold so much dang chaff and I have never run twine on any of my Deere balers but I'm worried the day I take em out I'll need it.


Mine too but for a different reason, I don't want to pay for them! I don't know why in the heck Deere continues to go thru the expense (and passing it along to the end user) of putting the mechanism and boxes in the machine......I know of several that have never had twine in them.


----------



## Colby (Mar 5, 2012)

somedevildawg said:


> Mine too but for a different reason, I don't want to pay for them! I don't know why in the heck Deere continues to go thru the expense (and passing it along to the end user) of putting the mechanism and boxes in the machine......I know of several that have never had twine in them.


Deere use to offer a "nothing but net" option. Probably didn't give you a discount for it though lol


----------



## somedevildawg (Jun 20, 2011)

Colby said:


> Deere use to offer a "nothing but net" option. Probably didn't give you a discount for it though lol


Every one I was quoted this last spring had both.....seems strange to me. If I were a dealer I would opt out unless they didn't offer any discount, then I suppose you could use it as a selling feature.


----------



## IH 1586 (Oct 16, 2014)

I took the center divider out of one side on my twine box and bolted in a ammo can to store tools and oil. A lot better than having to fill tractor tools boxes with the stuff as I don't use just one tractor.

As for having the option of net only. I don't thing the couple plates of steel that make up the boxes would make much of a price difference. I personally like that I have both you never know what will happen in the field.


----------



## somedevildawg (Jun 20, 2011)

The whole mechanism is there, and it's much more complex, not just boxes......I like the idea of putting a tool box there, might as well use it for something. Not sure most down here would even know where to go get twine.....they sure don't keep it at the barn, what they had left over from their old baler is tying up all sorts of stuff around the barn


----------



## IH 1586 (Oct 16, 2014)

Your right on the mechanism. Did not even think of that as the complaint was around the chaff in the boxes but I am sticking to liking the ability to switch in a jam and now having a place to carry supplies.


----------



## Tx Jim (Jun 30, 2014)

IH 1586 said:


> As for having the option of net only. I don't thing the couple plates of steel that make up the boxes would make much of a price difference. I personally like that I have both you never know what will happen in the field.


There's more involved with twine option on a JD baler than just the twine boxes. Twine application also requires twine tubes,gears,twine knife & actuator motor.

Ditto on having twine option if net fails to operate although I hate twine covered bales BUT it's better than rained on unbaled hay.


----------



## PaulN (Mar 4, 2014)

I'm sure a leaf blower would work just fine for removing chaff. But what I'm wondering, isn't that an incredibly dirty job for the operator? Do you guys wear goggles and a turtleneck?


----------



## somedevildawg (Jun 20, 2011)

PaulN said:


> I'm sure a leaf blower would work just fine for removing chaff. But what I'm wondering, isn't that an incredibly dirty job for the operator? Do you guys wear goggles and a turtleneck?


Always work away from the prevailing wind......sometimes have to move the tractor around but I don't like to have it blowing on me or my tractor, it is messy but not too bad if you are thoughtful in your equipment placement......


----------



## Lewis Ranch (Jul 15, 2013)

somedevildawg said:


> Always work away from the prevailing wind......sometimes have to move the tractor around but I don't like to have it blowing on me or my tractor, it is messy but not too bad if you are thoughtful in your equipment placement......


Exactly park that tractor upwind and If you have to blow out one side of the baler then reposition the tractor. I've got a 2' extension on my blower that makes a world of difference.


----------



## Vol (Jul 5, 2009)

I actually prefer to have a little wind blowing when I use the leaf blower.....then you don't have that cloud of dust hanging in the immediate atmosphere.

Regards, Mike


----------



## IH 1586 (Oct 16, 2014)

A little wind is nice. I don't take the time to reposition, I just deal with it.


----------



## r82230 (Mar 1, 2016)

Ditto IH, put a longer extension on leaf blower, take a show afterwards, is my system. On the up side, wife thinks I smell better too. 

Larry


----------



## deadmoose (Oct 30, 2011)

somedevildawg said:


> Mine too but for a different reason, I don't want to pay for them! I don't know why in the heck Deere continues to go thru the expense (and passing it along to the end user) of putting the mechanism and boxes in the machine......I know of several that have never had twine in them.


The pretty yellow ones will leave it off at the factory. Then, they won't make you pay for it either. Didn't seem worth paying for to me. So far so good.


----------



## Colby (Mar 5, 2012)

If you order a John Deere 569 baler with net wrap only, no twine it'll save you $1,442 bucks.


----------



## Vol (Jul 5, 2009)

Colby said:


> If you order a John Deere 569 baler with net wrap only, no twine it'll save you $1,442 bucks.


Would it be worth $1500 to have it??......it would be to me. I cannot help but think of what if. What if you had a major net wrap malfunction....one that takes all day to repair....or even a few days for parts.....and you had a big first crop on the ground ready to bale with rain in the immediate future. Those strings are not near as pretty as a net bale....but it sure would be nice to have those bales in the hay shed sitting in the dry.

And several fellas here use the strings to wrap a separate high moisture bale so they don't get it mixed in with the good bales....like along a shaded fence row.

It could come in handy....

Regards, Mike


----------



## Tx Jim (Jun 30, 2014)

Ditto what Mike stated. I'd rather have the option to apply twine if my netwrap attachment malfunctions.


----------



## Colby (Mar 5, 2012)

I always thought it would save you more. I'd order the baler with string anyways because 1 job will pay for that 1500 bucks. I baled around 1000 bales last year in string cause a lot of people around here like it still. The boxes hold like 6 balls in each side of the Deere baler's now (8&9 series) that's the problem. They collect way to much chaff. Id be happy with just a 3 ball box like is on the 7 series. They don't collect hardly Any chaff and with 3 balls of twine on each side you get about 75 bales out of that which is about all you can bale in a day with twine anyways.


----------



## IH 1586 (Oct 16, 2014)

Colby said:


> I always thought it would save you more. I'd order the baler with string anyways because 1 job will pay for that 1500 bucks. I baled around 1000 bales last year in string cause a lot of people around here like it still. The boxes hold like 6 balls in each side of the Deere baler's now (8&9 series) that's the problem. They collect way to much chaff. Id be happy with just a 3 ball box like is on the 7 series. They don't collect hardly Any chaff and with 3 balls of twine on each side you get about 75 bales out of that which is about all you can bale in a day with twine anyways.


6 balls on each side? Really? I wish my 8 series had that. My 9 series does not have that either. Is that an option on the 5x8 and 5x9 balers as I only have a 458 & 459 baler.


----------



## Vol (Jul 5, 2009)

Colby said:


> I always thought it would save you more. I'd order the baler with string anyways because 1 job will pay for that 1500 bucks. I baled around 1000 bales last year in string cause a lot of people around here like it still. The boxes hold like 6 balls in each side of the Deere baler's now (8&9 series) that's the problem. They collect way to much chaff. Id be happy with just a 3 ball box like is on the 7 series. They don't collect hardly Any chaff and with 3 balls of twine on each side you get about 75 bales out of that which is about all you can bale in a day with twine anyways.


Looks like a fella could fabricate a piece of sheet metal to cover the boxes to keep out chaff....or does design complicate such? I have a nearly antique JD roundbaler that I bought it new in 1994 and I am not real familiar with the new 9 series.

Regards, Mike


----------



## IH 1586 (Oct 16, 2014)

Vol said:


> Looks like a fella could fabricate a piece of sheet metal to cover the boxes to keep out chaff....or does design complicate such? I have a nearly antique JD roundbaler that I bought it new in 1994 and I am not real familiar with the new 9 series.
> 
> Regards, Mike


I'm sure you could. Get a piece cut and install a hinge or two and a latch. I think would work good.


----------



## Colby (Mar 5, 2012)

IH 1586 said:


> 6 balls on each side? Really? I wish my 8 series had that. My 9 series does not have that either. Is that an option on the 5x8 and 5x9 balers as I only have a 458 & 459 baler.


I guess it's only available on their commercial series balers 468/9 568/9 as those are the only ones I have experience with.


----------



## Tx Jim (Jun 30, 2014)

Vol said:


> Looks like a fella could fabricate a piece of sheet metal to cover the boxes to keep out chaff....or does design complicate such? I have a nearly antique JD roundbaler that I bought it new in 1994 and I am not real familiar with the new 9 series.
> 
> Regards, Mike


There's not a lot differences between the twine boxes on a '94 model JD rd baler than the new ones sold today especially when it comes to chaff/dirt collection.


----------



## superflea (Dec 30, 2014)

Thanks for all the help and input. I felt like I couldn't go wrong with either one. I wound up going with a Vermeer Rancher with both the net and twine options.


----------



## carcajou (Jan 28, 2011)

superflea said:


> Thanks for all the help and input. I felt like I couldn't go wrong with either one. I wound up going with a Vermeer Rancher with both the net and twine options.


Thanks for your update!


----------



## jturbo10 (Feb 28, 2011)

I just went through the same drill about what brand of round baler to buy. I ended up buying a New Holland BR7060 round baler that only had 2400 rounds on it and looks brand new. Price was about $2k above a used John Deere with 12-15k bales through it. Deciding factor was the dealership support near me. The NH dealership has a very experienced baler mechanic I had worked with on my square baler and he is very knowledgeable and accessible. The JD dealerships are both 30 miles away and I don't trust their mechanics from previous experience on other equipment repairs. The NH mechanic came out and spent two hours with me checking all the sensors, actuators, how to change the net wrap, and reviewed all the settings and trouble shooting diagnostics. He also rode along while I baled a few bales and walked me through manual and auto net wrap modes. I learned more in the two hours he spent with me than reading the manual cover to cover about ten times....you can get info overload when the manuals mix up the different features to cover all the different models. I do almost all my maintenance and repair work but it is valuable to have support nearby when you need it during hay season. I do know you can pickup a Vermeer or Case/IH baler a lot cheaper than JD or NH as they don't seem to hold their resale value but I don't know why. I really believe you would be happy with any of the top three balers if it meets your haying/forage requirements. I have three different brands of tractors and four different brands of pickups and each one does just fine. Look for availability, quality, price, and dealership support and the decision will be a lot easier. JMHO. Good luck.


----------



## jturbo10 (Feb 28, 2011)

Whoops...looks like I should have read every input before I replied. Glad you made the decision, regardless of the brand. Good luck and happy baling.


----------



## armsteadc (Jun 15, 2015)

I am going through this now. I am looking at a 2003 JD 467 with 13k bales on it and a 2011 Vermeer 664 Rancher with 6k bales. There is a 4000 dollar difference. My understanding is the Vermeer only makes a 4x5.5 bale but I am planning on making that size bale. I am assuming there would be less stress on the JD since I am not working it at full capacity whereas the Vermeer would be. It's 4000 more but 8 years newer and half the bales...


----------



## Tx Jim (Jun 30, 2014)

JD 467 rd balers are very good in fact the best rd balers I've baled with. . My 1st 467 had 30,000 bales on it when I traded for 2nd one to get surface wrap that now has 23,000 bales on it.


----------

