# Deere 55 Series AC



## Vol (Jul 5, 2009)

The temp here has been nice into the mid-eighties so the AC on my old 55 series tractor is fine now after recent updating. But I am suspicious of how it will be with higher 95+ temps and sky high humidities.

I have been told and read about hot coolant flowing through the heater core resulting in the AC not working as efficient....especially in high temps.

I also have read where some folks have added additional "heater hose cutoffs" to prevent this from happening on these older 55 series tractors when using the AC.

Has anyone here done this? What kind of cut-off did you use and where exactly did you mount it?

Regards, Mike


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## Tx Jim (Jun 30, 2014)

My 4255 has had manual water valves installed on it so long back I've forgotten when they were installed. My tractor cools better on134A than it ever did on R12 but it's a rowcrop & IIRC yours is a utility which are totally different AC systems. Be sure to keep rad & cond free from debris/dirt.


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## snowball (Feb 7, 2015)

Mike what is your 55 seris ?... would it happen to be a 2955 ?


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## mlappin (Jun 25, 2009)

Not sure where you could add em on a deere, but my Whites have a cutoff right on the engine. A few of our Cats have cutoffs on both the supply and return so if you get a leak in a heater hose turn both off and keep running.

I take it then Deere uses a mixing door much like most newer vehicles and the coolant flows al the time? Have two JD loaders on the farm but not familiar wit the new Deeres. Certainly couldn't be too hard to add a valve somewhere.


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## Tx Jim (Jun 30, 2014)

mlappin said:


> Not sure where you could add em on a deere take it then Deere uses a mixing door much like most newer vehicles


Manual cutoff valves can be inserted in either or both heater hoses. No mixing door on a 55 series rowcrop or utility tractor AC/heater


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## SVFHAY (Dec 5, 2008)

I don't have any Deere specific suggestions just observations from my Macks. The Valves are mounted on the block not in the middle of a hose run, this gives a solid mount allowing you to apply some grunt if necessary to break it loose. They also use a water spigot style that takes a lot of turning vs a 1/4 turn style that would seem more convenient. I suspect the 1/4 turn style may "stick" much quicker.


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## Vol (Jul 5, 2009)

Thanks for the thoughts and replies fellas.....may just hold pat for a week or two until it is in the mid-nineties and see how things are cooling then.

Regards, Mike


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## Bazooka (Sep 17, 2013)

Vol said:


> Thanks for the thoughts and replies fellas.....may just hold pat for a week or two until it is in the mid-nineties and see how things are cooling then.
> 
> Regards, Mike


Probably the best idea, no sense in going to extra work if it is not needed. I really don't think it matters if it is closer to the engine or the core, but if it were me I would use good quality ball valves and I would put them where it is easiest to get to without having to take off any shields, hood, etc. Like where they pass under the cab or something like that. If it turns out you need them, in theory you will only have to turn them on/off one time each way. Just my thoughts

Good luck,

Brian


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## luke strawwalker (Jul 31, 2014)

Our school buses had shutoff valves for the heater core so you wouldn't completely burn up during the hotter months of the year...

They used regular plumbing gate valves (3/4 IIRC) connected up to the core right by our feet... we generally left them "closed" until we needed the heater.

I'd recommend just using a regular gate valve... a ball valve may be VERY difficult to move once it gets some gunk in it from the coolant... just cut the hose and insert the gate valve with a pair of hose nipple connectors and hose clamps. You don't HAVE to put valves on both hoses-- with one valve closed, no water will flow, so the heat should never get to the core from the block. If you can, install it on the hot water outlet line to the core rather than the coolant return line from the core-- depending on the layout, it's POSSIBLE that the hot water line could "thermo-siphon" (hot water rising up the top half of the hose, cool water descending the bottom half of the hose) and allow some heat to make its way up to the core... if the hot water line to the core has the valve, it won't do that. (The hot water line to the core should be from the block or head or thermostat housing, whereas the cool water return from the core should go to the water pump inlet side).

Later and good luck! OL JR


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## bluefarmer (Oct 10, 2010)

most BLUE tractors already have them from the factory!!


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