# Tractor won't start?



## MScowman (May 18, 2011)

Okay, I go out to start my tractor yesterday to hook to the baler and turn Key and nothing. First thought was did I leave it in gear? No, I turned the key again didn't hear the usual beeping, no lights the air wasn't blowing, nothing. I was at a lose, Nothing was left on, so any way I get my truck and jumper cables and try jumping it off. After an hour being hooked to the my truck with the jumper cables, all it would do is maybe turn over twice before stalling. So this morning I took the battery out of another tractor, same size battery and all I got is the same as trying with jumper cables. What are some thoughts? I'd love to hear some.


----------



## 8350HiTech (Jul 26, 2013)

Poor ground?


----------



## IHCman (Aug 27, 2011)

Get a voltmeter or multimeter. Very helpful tool. Can tell if the battery is truly dead or if the problem is elsewhere.

Check and clean battery cable ends. I prefer to use soda water to clean them.

I'm no mechanic but seeing the JD tractors listed in your description I'd think there could be a relay or solenoid that may be faulty. Your starter could be dragging, Sometimes putting a charger on boost will give it the extra power needed to spin the starter over, sometimes not.


----------



## Nitram (Apr 2, 2011)

Are the electronics all working with different battery? Was it hot when shut down? What tractor are you having this ? Is starter getting hot after attempting start?


----------



## Nitram (Apr 2, 2011)

Chewed up wire? Mouse just worked my coil wire on the one ton last week


----------



## BWfarms (Aug 3, 2015)

I'm going out on a limb here since I don't know the tractor. Since I just fixed an issue on my 2011 CaseIH. I would take a jumper wire from positive terminal on battery to the fuel pump to bypass the solenoid. If it fires, you have one of three problems. The electronic fuel module or the relays for fuel shutoff/safety switches or safety switches.

Since safety switches are a bear, start with replacing the module and relays.

If you can't fire, still try the above mentioned because I unplugged wires and was able to fire with and without my bypass.


----------



## BWfarms (Aug 3, 2015)

I do have an issue with high humidity on one tractor that when I park, I lock the clutch down or else safety switch sticks. Also I have to sometimes turn key what seems to be a hundred times to clear whatever build up on contacts that prevents a connection.


----------



## bluefarmer (Oct 10, 2010)

What kind of tractor how old, pto lever moved just enough that the safety cutout switch won't let it start?


----------



## MScowman (May 18, 2011)

Just getting back to check out replies. Sorry for not putting in my OP but the tractor in question is 5093e. It is 2011 model and has always fired right up, until yesterday.


----------



## ANewman (Sep 20, 2012)

8350HiTech said:


> Poor ground?


I'd start here too. Check where the ground wire connects to the tractor


----------



## somedevildawg (Jun 20, 2011)

Is this a cab tractor? If so I'm with hitech, it's a bad ground, they've had some problems on cab tractors with the ground......not sure where it is on the 5093. When you hooked up a fully charged battery Did the connection arc really badly indicating a significant draw on the battery without the key on? With the good battery in place, did you hear and see the gauges come on? Air blow? If not, I'm thinking a bad ground.....could also be a fuse able link (or circuit breaker) or a relay in the fuse panel but I doubt those would have an issue with the started being slow.....


----------



## MScowman (May 18, 2011)

I had bad luck. The battery that I used from the other tractor wouldn't start it either, it was a bad battery. I've got to go into town tomorrow and I'm going to have my battery tested. My neighbor seems to think it has a bad cell.

devildawg: yes it is a cab tractor, I will update on what I find out. I may need a new battery, but the dang thing is only 3 years old. How long will deere give on those things?


----------



## somedevildawg (Jun 20, 2011)

MScowman said:


> I had bad luck. The battery that I used from the other tractor wouldn't start it either, it was a bad battery. I've got to go into town tomorrow and I'm going to have my battery tested. My neighbor seems to think it has a bad cell.
> devildawg: yes it is a cab tractor, I will update on what I find out. I may need a new battery, but the dang thing is only 3 years old. How long will deere give on those things?


They have stopped prorating deere tractor batteries I thnk.....just about everyone has gone to that. They just replaced a battery at no charge for me that was 11 months old. If its withn the first year they just replace.....
That's actually what I was thinking but you threw me off with the other battery scenario......last year they replaced a 1 yr and 3 month old battery and it cost me about $250 iirc.....they did prorate then, but I think they've done away with that.....with three years on it, wouldn't be much anyway. 
A tractor is a tough environment for a battery not to mention the cca that are required to turn over the Diesel engine, add things like lights and blower motors and even more taxing. On occasion, my 6420 would do the same thing, but I found a bad ground on the cab ground.....


----------



## MScowman (May 18, 2011)

Well it turned out that my battery was DEAD. Got a new one and tractor fired right up. Thanks for all the help y'all.

Thanks,

Bo


----------



## rjmoses (Apr 4, 2010)

MScowman said:


> Well it turned out that my battery was DEAD. Got a new one and tractor fired right up. Thanks for all the help y'all.
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Bo


I've been seeing batteries die all of sudden myself. I think it's because the are making the lead plates smaller and packing them closer together in order to get more juice out of a smaller package.

More current, less weight.

Ralph


----------



## mlappin (Jun 25, 2009)

rjmoses said:


> I've been seeing batteries die all of sudden myself. I think it's because the are making the lead plates smaller and packing them closer together in order to get more juice out of a smaller package.
> 
> More current, less weight.
> 
> Ralph


And less room between the plates or under them for sulfates to build up. Once enough builds up across or under plates, dead cell.


----------



## Fossil02818 (May 31, 2010)

3-4 years is about all I ever get out of a tractor battery up here. Had one quit on me last month after sitting for just a week without running. It was fine right up to then. Sort of like when the sheep decide to die. You don't always get a lot of advance warning.


----------



## luke strawwalker (Jul 31, 2014)

Batteries, like everything else nowdays, are just built as cheap as possible and are basically "junk" when you buy them...

All I really expect to get out of a battery anymore is about 3 years... anything over that is just gravy...

Why I just get the cheapest one I can, usually... I know I'll be replacing it in a couple three years at most anyway...

Later! OL JR


----------



## idaho2 (May 6, 2014)

Had a battery on my Mahindra 5530 go bad last year. Tested out 12v but when tested for amps - it failed. Testing for amps is a must.

idaho2


----------



## deadmoose (Oct 30, 2011)

What do you guys do to drag down your batteries? I was disappointed in 2 of them this year. Replaced one on my Ram. Only 9 and it was time to replace. And my boat battery is weak. Gonna have to replace that one next year. New in '03. Both bear MN winter temps.


----------



## shortrow (Feb 21, 2012)

Somethin' mattery with the battery. Glad that's all it was, electrical matters can be tricky with this newfangled iron.


----------



## Orchard6 (Apr 30, 2014)

I've always had decent luck with Deere's StrongBox batteries. I'm surprised it failed that soon. Glad you got it figured out though. How's the rest of the charging system?

A friend had a bad voltage regulator that would overcharge a battery and fry it in about 3 months, a new alternator and battery and he was good to go.... Until someone decided they needed the battery worse than he did! Worst part was it was parked in his yard when someone swiped it.


----------



## mlappin (Jun 25, 2009)

idaho2 said:


> Had a battery on my Mahindra 5530 go bad last year. Tested out 12v but when tested for amps - it failed. Testing for amps is a must.
> 
> idaho2


Absolutely need a load tester, a decent carbon pile tester with a built in timer good for 1000amps can be bought for less than a hundred bucks.

I picked up an Autometer digital tester, tests starter, battery, alternator, alternator ripple current, voltage drop, etc. Even tells you which cable the drop is on, has saved me countless hours tracking down bad connections or cables.

http://test.autometer.com/content/bva-350-0


----------



## luke strawwalker (Jul 31, 2014)

deadmoose said:


> What do you guys do to drag down your batteries? I was disappointed in 2 of them this year. Replaced one on my Ram. Only 9 and it was time to replace. And my boat battery is weak. Gonna have to replace that one next year. New in '03. Both bear MN winter temps.


Older batteries were better... See how long the new ones last and then we'll talk...

OL JR


----------

