# Overseeding orchard grass



## tnwalkingred (Jun 8, 2010)

I planted ten acres of orchard grass in the fall before last and got a pretty good stand however when I broadcast the seed it wound up being a little streaky with certain spots being a little thin. I plan on overseeding this spring with a no-till drill and really throwing the fertilizer to it. I also just picked up a five acre field that joins me that I want to plant in orchard grass as well. I know fall is the better time to plant however I want to go ahead and get something started this spring. While needing to overseed the existing stand and plant a new stand both what is the best procedure in your guys minds? I also normally spray 2-4-d however I thought since I was going to have new seedlings coming up I might want to wait. Should I wait to fertilize till after I get done with the no-till drill or fertilize before? Could I possibly spray the 2-4-d before I drill the new seed or will the spray have a negative affect on the new seedlings? Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks guys.

--Kyle


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## Vol (Jul 5, 2009)

Kyle,
Don't spray at this stage. When the temps start avg. about 60 for highs then its time for seeding(3rd or 4th week of Feb. in TN) In the new stand, go ahead and work up the field....since it is small, if you could find a 6 foot tiller to rent or borrow it would do you a great job. You will get a better stand broadcasting but remember to stay a couple of feet shorter for broadcasting seed than what is recommended(probably on 10 foot centers for orchard grass and NO wind). If it stays to wet to work the ground, then you will need to no-till. If you could catch 3-4 days with temps above 60 then you could spray the new field with round-up and wait a week or so before seeding. Glyphosate does not show alot of evidence of kill for several weeks when cool temps are prevalent, but the result will be there if plants and grasses are active(highs above 60 for 3 days or more). Once seedlings emerge you want to wait for at least 6 weeks before using 2 4d and then use 1-2 pints per acre(1 pint for moderate weed pressure, 2 pints for heavy weed pressure). On your re-seed areas, no fertilize until grass is up for a couple of weeks to help it establish as the existing grass could out-compete seedlings if given fertilizer. Once seedlings are 2 weeks old fertilize and when seedlings are 6 weeks old, spray. Usually when orchard grass seedlings have 2 to 3 branches, then it is safe for a light to moderate 2 4d spray application. Equipment for re-seeding areas would be either a no-till seeder or a Brillion or Conservation seeder. Go heavy on your re-seed area with seed. Seed is not cheap, but is still the cheapest part of getting a good stand of grass. As far as pre-spraying with 2 4d, most labels recommend waiting 30-60 days before seeding. Ideally, if you seed in the spring, fall spraying with 2 4d is best. Good to hear from you.

Regards, Mike


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## tnwalkingred (Jun 8, 2010)

Mike,

When would you recommend to fertilize the new stand? I'm probably going to have to spray the new field and then use a no-till drill as the ground is so saturated here.

--Kyle


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## Vol (Jul 5, 2009)

Kyle, were in mud over here up to our tail bones too....I always like to fertilize after my grass is up..... a couple of weeks or so. Nothing wrong with doing it ahead though.....probably would do what fit my situation the best this year....all things considered. Been frequent rains here since October, now watch it turn off to a drought this summer.

Regards, Mike


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## tnwalkingred (Jun 8, 2010)

Mike,

With it being so wet would there be any potential damage to the young seedlings if you drove over them again with a tractor and fertilizer buggy????

--Kyle


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## tnwalkingred (Jun 8, 2010)

Mike,

Using a no till drill how much seed would you recommend on the new field as well as the overseed field?

--Kyle


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## Vol (Jul 5, 2009)

Kyle, I like to always put down 20 pounds/ac. of orchard grass....with that said if I was drilling a field I would calibrate the drill for 10 pounds per acre and drill the complete field going back and forth in one direction and then i would turn 90 degrees in another direction and do the same thing again. That way you get a nice thick stand of grass.....and little squares.







As far as overseeding it would depend upon how much existing grass was there....you still want to go heavy because its harder to get grass thru overseeding but I probably would put down at least 10 pounds/Ac. and if it was pretty thin I would go 15pounds/ac.

Regards, Mike


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## Vol (Jul 5, 2009)

tnwalkingred said:


> Mike,
> 
> With it being so wet would there be any potential damage to the young seedlings if you drove over them again with a tractor and fertilizer buggy????
> 
> --Kyle


Not much with damp ground, but with very dry ground severe damage can occur.


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