# New Holland 650



## Junie (Jul 26, 2015)

Need help on how to replace bearing in belt drive roller in new Holland 650 round baler ,hay on the ground everywhere urgent message please and thank ya ,custom baler!!


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## Troy Farmer (Jul 31, 2011)

If it's at all like my 644 you first need to take the belt tension off by inserting the big locking bolt while the tailgate is raised. Lower the tailgate, belts should be loose. Lay a 4x4 across the top of the baler above the belt drive roller. Take a small, short rachet strap and run over 4x4 and around roller. I'm assuming that the drive end bearing is bad. The strap will hold the weight of the roller while you replace the bearing. Loosen tension on drive chain and remove from sprocket. Remove set screw from sprocket. Remove sprocket with gear puller. You should now see the bearing and flange. The bearing has an eccentric collar with two set screws that lock it to the shaft. Take out set screws and take a punch and hammer and drive the eccentric counter clockwise about a quarter to a third of a turn. Collar should come off shaft. Take out four bolts holding flange. Depending on condition of the bearing, you may need a puller to remove. The flange and bearing come off the shaft as one piece. But once it is removed from the shaft, look at the back of the flange. You will see two notches. The outer bearing race is crowned, you tap it from the back and it will turn perpendicular in the flange and just pull out at the notches by hand. Insert new bearing in the flange by reverse method. Polish roller shaft with Emory cloth so the new bearing can be tapped on with not much resistance! Take a punch and line up flange bolt holes with threads in roller and replace eccentric locking collar on bearing. The eccentric collar doesn't come with the bearing, so take care of yours or buy a new one. It's not as big of a job as you may think. Good luck!


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## mike10 (May 29, 2011)

If I had to guess it is the right side that needs replacing. If it is the left side, drive side, Loosen drive chain, no need to split, remove the grease fitting adapter from the end of the roll bolt head. remove the bolt, heavy washer spring and outer clutch. Remove pivot bolt on the declutch fork and fold fork out of the way. There is a snapring holding the inner clutch After removing the snap ring the inner clutch will come off. The inner bearing housing is held in place by two carriage bolts and two hex head bolts. Remove bolts. You will need a puller that can pull the bearing housing with bearing off the shaft. There are two notches on the housing on the backside of the housing to install the puller jaws. The jaws must be thin to fit between the frame and housing. They generally will pull off without much trouble.

If it is the right side, position the baler and particularly the roll under something you can attaché a come along or other lifting mechanism above. Remove the tension from the belts. Support the right side of the roll and remove the bolt that goes through the side sheet into the center of the roll. Remove the hub that is in the side sheet and goes into the roll. In a perfect world you would then just raise the right end of the roll and remove the bearing and perhaps you will be able to. What you will probably find is the roll will raise enough that half of the bearing is exposed. I suppose you can put enough pressure on the roll to get it higher, I do not. I disassemble the left side, as listed above, and then the roll can be raised without forcing parts to twist and bend.


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## Troy Farmer (Jul 31, 2011)

Sorry if I provided any wrong info. I wondered if the 650 had a clutch on the belt drive. And apparently it does. Just trying to help.


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## Junie (Jul 26, 2015)

Mike
You are correct it is the right side, have it torn apart and just wondering if the left side pulled off with a puller, I saw 2 notches but didn't want to break anything! I have a three prong puller gonna try to get it out with, looks like it takes a two, do you think this will work? Thanks for your quick response from both you all!!!!


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## mike10 (May 29, 2011)

It needs to be a two jaw puller on the left side. You will not be able to get behind the bearing housing otherwise.


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## sgriffin2065 (Sep 6, 2016)

Hello.

Can someone tell me how to get the right side support hub(Covers the end of the roller and the bearing) off? It has a slot that I have used a pry bar on but either it is rusted on or I am doing something incorrectly.

Thanks,

Steve


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## mike10 (May 29, 2011)

If you are talking about the right side of the drive roll, what I have done is take a piece of 1" x x" x 1/4" thick metal and drill two holes so you can bolt the plate to the support. The x for length is what ever it takes to catch those two holes. I welded a nut in the center for my slide hammer which I use to pull the support off. If you do not have a slide hammer then weld to shafts together to form a "T". Weld the leg of the "T" to the plate in the center and then hit on each side of the cross arm of the "T" to get the support out.

If your support does not bolt to the baler with four bolts and only has the center bolt in the support, then take a 12mm bolt and weld a cross arm across the head of the bolt. Screw it into the support and then you can hit on the cross arm to remove the support.


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## sgriffin2065 (Sep 6, 2016)

Thanks mike.

Once I get the support off, is it difficult to get the bearing out? I am replacing the left bearing and thought it would be a good idea to replace the right bearing but so far the right side is been harder to work on. I believe the right bearing is the original bearing that came on the nh 640 baler.


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## mike10 (May 29, 2011)

I would try a slide hammer if the bearing is still tight in the housing but if you do not have a slide hammer then a tool like I made to pull that bearing housing out of the roll should work, you just need to make is so you can get it in the bearing.

I am attaching a photo of a tool I made to pull the bearing housing out of the right side of the drive roll. Almost always when I am working on the right side the bearing is either out or loose in the housing. As you can see in the photo the short bar is cut at an angle to get it into and behind the bearing housing. I then put the long bar on and tighten the nut. I then take a hammer and hit on the long bar to drive the housing out of the roll. The nut needs to be tightened as the housing comes out but once the housing is even with the end of the roll the bolt will remain tight until the housing is completely out.


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