# Corn fields to hay fields



## maketo (Jul 31, 2017)

Hello all!

After a lot of looking and making offers on various pieces of land, we found what we were looking for in SW Virginia (about 35 miles south of Roanoke). The property is 32 acres and we moved into it last month. It has about 15 acres in three fields - planted with corn (for silage). The corn was collected/cut at the beginning of January by the farmer who was working with the previous owner - I am attaching a photo of what a field looks like now.

I would like to make horse quality hay. I have never done this before and don't even own a tractor.

While looking for a tractor I like and can afford and all necessary implements, I would like to spend a year or two having someone else spray, seed, fertilize etc. However, I would like to manage this process - pay per service - for example, pay someone $x to spray, pay someone $y to seed, pay someone $z to fertilize and then I have a friend with a baler who will help me bale in exchange for a cut in the finished hay bales. This way I have the time to get a tractor and all the implements and learn the ropes slowly but be fully involved in the process and hopefully learn something.

I went to our local Southern States and they quoted about $20/acre to spray the fields with an herbicide (got some weeds popping through). We got the soil tested through the local ag extension and the soils returned as productivity group 3, acidity 6.1-6.5 and needing potash and nitrogen.

Would someone be nice to explain what my steps are coming up? For example, should I get someone out to till the leftover corn cover in, in preparation for drilling in the seeds? Should I spray first and then fertilize and then seed? When do these steps each happen? My plan is to grow something that is "typical" here - like fescue and orchard mix.

I spoke with someone locally who offered to convert the fields from corn to good horse hay (all expenses included) for $500/acre and manage the process from beginning to end. In addition to defeating the purpose of me being involved and learning, I find that to be on the high end. But, what do I know (hence I am here asking!).

Thank you for any words of wisdom. (Oh yeah, don't tell me not to make my own hay, that ship has sailed...)


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## hillside hay (Feb 4, 2013)

$500 per acre is right in line to establish hay ground. There is alot more work to it than appears on the surface. I think you should at least be able to Shadow the guy and learn. If he won't let you someone else will because there is much to learn and every year is different


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## maketo (Jul 31, 2017)

hillside hay said:


> $500 per acre is right in line to establish hay ground. There is alot more work to it than appears on the surface. I think you should at least be able to Shadow the guy and learn. If he won't let you someone else will because there is much to learn and every year is different


Hello, thank you for your reply. Can you explain a bit more on the steps involved? One way or another, it would be nice to know so that at least I have some idea what will happen...


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## hillside hay (Feb 4, 2013)

Judging from the picture there will be many leveling passes required. I'm going to guess a bunch of rock picking as well. Factor in a terrace to slow the rainwater down. The lime and fertilizer will be incorporated in the last couple passes. Your neighbor isn't going to be making a lot of money off the venture. Seed has really shot up the last few years for something that will last.
Time...lots of time is involved with converting corn ground to hay ground on hilly Rocky ground.


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## maketo (Jul 31, 2017)

hillside hay said:


> Judging from the picture there will be many leveling passes required. I'm going to guess a bunch of rock picking as well. Factor in a terrace to slow the rainwater down. The lime and fertilizer will be incorporated in the last couple passes. Your neighbor isn't going to be making a lot of money off the venture. Seed has really shot up the last few years for something that will last.
> Time...lots of time is involved with converting corn ground to hay ground on hilly Rocky ground.


Thanks! Does this apply to any soil, even one that used to be hay field but is now corn field (these fields used to be hay fields - don't know if it was quality horse hay or just any grass that was mowed and baled for cows). Thanks.


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## swmnhay (Jun 13, 2008)

That corn wasn't harvested for silage in the pic.It was combined.You will have a lot of trash to deal with.The seeding yr you probably will get some trash mixed in the hay from redding and raking.You can cut with a mower conditioner high to minimize the trash in hay.The 2 ndyr it will the trash will be rotted down and won't be a issue.

I'd have a plan B for seeding yr hay and maybe go to cattle feed.

$500 to just establish the hay or harvest it also?

Ball park numbers.
$125 for seed
$125 for fertilizer 
$30 for lime
$100 for seed bed prep,seeding and spraying

I'd want to know what he would be putting on for inputs and get receipts.Be more fair to pay inputs yourself plus custom rates for planting it.

I seed some for neighbors.I supply seed and drill it in.They prep seedbed.Cost them about $145 per acre.$125 for seed and $20 for drilling.


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## Trotwood2955 (Sep 4, 2012)

I am about 2 hours north of you. Congrats on the purchase. With not having any of your own equipment or experience, you are on the right track to partner with someone else to get this done and get you started.

I would throw out some other options. Personally, I absolutely hate tillage and would much rather no-till everything. It works well in my part of VA and would think it would in yours too. As others have said that corn was combined not cut for silage. That is a lot of trash to no-till a new hay drop into. It can be done but not ideal.

If it was me I'd rent it to someone put corn or some type of silage sorghum out in the spring, have that chopped August or early September, spray for a burndown, and no till a new hay crop. Be a lot cheaper (in my experience) than tillage. Based on the picture it looks like your field has some slope to it which would make me want to no till even more.

About the last time I worked any ground it was converting a corn field that had been combined back into hay. Worked it down smooth and perfect, fertilized, planted, and a couple days after planting we had a heck of a storm that washed and rutted up the field something awful. At that point with the seed already down it was nothing but a mess to try and fix. You don't have to worry about that with no till.

Another option would be for someone to plant soybeans in it this spring, combine those in the fall and let the field sit empty over winter and no-till straight into it the following spring. When I rotate fields back into hay I almost always now try to do it following a soybean crop. It is a good smooth, mellow seed bed to drill into.

You lose a year of hay either way with any of my suggestions but as cheap as hay is to buy (relatively) I'd rather buy for a year or so and avoid all the tillage. Good luck.


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## maketo (Jul 31, 2017)

swmnhay said:


> That corn wasn't harvested for silage in the pic.It was combined.You will have a lot of trash to deal with.The seeding yr you probably will get some trash mixed in the hay from redding and raking.You can cut with a mower conditioner high to minimize the trash in hay.The 2 ndyr it will the trash will be rotted down and won't be a issue.
> 
> I'd have a plan B for seeding yr hay and maybe go to cattle feed.
> 
> ...


Hello, thanks for providing some numbers! I believe the $500/acre number includes everything (with harvest) but I will double check to make sure.... Not the first time I made a bad assumption


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## maketo (Jul 31, 2017)

Trotwood2955 said:


> I am about 2 hours north of you. Congrats on the purchase. With not having any of your own equipment or experience, you are on the right track to partner with someone else to get this done and get you started.
> 
> I would throw out some other options. Personally, I absolutely hate tillage and would much rather no-till everything. It works well in my part of VA and would think it would in yours too. As others have said that corn was combined not cut for silage. That is a lot of trash to no-till a new hay drop into. It can be done but not ideal.
> 
> ...


Hello, thanks! Yes, I like the idea of no-till. The person I am talking to is coming out Tuesday to give me his sales pitch. I don't mind waiting a year to do the right thing by the land.


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## swmnhay (Jun 13, 2008)

I agree with the notill looking at the pic of the field.IDK if a early soybean and then seed your hay crop in the fall would be a option there?Have enough time before killing frost for hay to get established.??

Notill soybeans in spring
Harvest in fall.
Notill your hay crop seed this fall directly after combining beans.


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## Trotwood2955 (Sep 4, 2012)

In a perfect year with an early soybean harvest plus warm fall and winter it might be possible but I’ve never tried it. Where I am at fall grass really needs to be in by mid September. End of September is pushing it. We usually don’t get beans ready to cut until mid October. Maketo is a couple hours south of me so it may work a little better for him.


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## VA Haymaker (Jul 1, 2014)

maketo said:


> Hello all!
> 
> After a lot of looking and making offers on various pieces of land, we found what we were looking for in SW Virginia (about 35 miles south of Roanoke). The property is 32 acres and we moved into it last month. It has about 15 acres in three fields - planted with corn (for silage). The corn was collected/cut at the beginning of January by the farmer who was working with the previous owner - I am attaching a photo of what a field looks like now.
> 
> ...


A few thoughts/questions...

What are you calling horse quality hay? Have you identified a particular crop, i.e. alfalfa, orchard grass, etc.?

How are you fixed for storage buildings, i.e. barns - somewhere to keep hay out of the weather.

Square or round bales?

I would suggest you begin a roadmap to your hay making - a business plan. Make the plan, adjust - but stick to it, including a time line. Figure out your market and plant accordingly, including equipment buys and when you are in a position to realistically make hay. Include a crop map of what your fields are now and what they will become.

Equipment - begin moving off the dime by figuring out if you are going to buy old equipment that comes with knuckle busting, wrenching and a big hammer or you're going to go for higher cost/more reliable equipment. Horse quality hay is IMHO is very dependent on being able to make a bale - literally, but also equipment that can do it on the day/hour the hay is ready. One day late can mean rain washed hay or additional bleaching that renders the hay visually unattractive to horse owners.

Business - if you are making and selling hay in VA, you will need to collect VA sales tax. Get you a tax ID.

Hobby farm or for profit - if you make it your business to make $$$'s with your haying, design your business around a 1040 Schedule F, if not then hobby farm around a Schedule C. Get and accountant, use the tax code to your advantage.

One of your biggest challenges is selling your hay. Here's the deal, most horse customers already have suppliers and the ones that don't are generally buying on price and often last minute - pay check to pay check and are looking for great hay, but at low prices. Figure out how you are going to crack the market, advertise, etc.

If you are going to make hay, I'd get going now. I'd make a run at some acreage amount for this summer. This will get you in the groove, allow you to sea trial your skills and equipment. Consider taking a few days to attend the haying conference per this thread: http://www.haytalk.com/forums/topic/81338-uga-hay-and-baleage-short-courses/

Don't be afraid to experiment and/or take a chance. If you can load-up on equipment this month and next, you might be able to plant a summer annual like teff or take a chance on a spring planting of orchard grass. Be mindful of herbicides and their pre-emergent attributes/application prior to planting.

Read as much as possible on all forums, ask questions, get started haying and let the grey hair begin.... 

Bill


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## maketo (Jul 31, 2017)

leeave96 said:


> A few thoughts/questions...
> 
> What are you calling horse quality hay? Have you identified a particular crop, i.e. alfalfa, orchard grass, etc.?
> 
> ...


Hello, what I mean by horse quality hay is hay that is suitable to feed to horses, not cow hay that is being passed on as horse hay. Since moving to rural Virginia we see a lot of fields that are not sprayed or maintained and are just baled a couple of times a year (like mowing a lawn). This hay is then offered to people as horse hay but it is not. At least I would not feed it to my horse. I would like to just produce orchard/fescue mix hay that has been tested and is weed free (as much as possible). It is for our own 3-4 horses consumption but left over would be sold to people locally.

Square bales.

We are fixed for an empty pole barn where hay can be stored.

Selling it - in our neck of the woods it is nigh impossible to find horse quality hay. We drive 70 miles south to North Carolina to get ours and know of people locally who do similar things (or drive NW to Blacksburg, VA etc.). Part of it is socio-economics, local horse people think of your horse as "pampered" as you refuse the weed infested cow round bale pushed on you as good quality horse hay. But, that is shifting as people are moving in around Roanoke from other, more affluent parts of Virginia. We don't have enough acres (it would be 12-15 in production) to become major suppliers but would definitely have a small audience who would be glad to save a trip or six to North Carolina.

Equipment - I am looking locally for a tractor in the 5-8,000 range, 4x4, 40+ HP with a live PTO etc. etc. Since I have never owned one before it will be a long and hard learning road for me. But I am not afraid.

Thank you for the advice on the business side of things also - I have registered an LLC, am getting extra insurance etc. etc. Don't want to get sued and lose my shirt. Our place is planned as a veggie farm as well so I have to get it done.


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## IH 1586 (Oct 16, 2014)

You are to low on the HP. Bare min. I would go would be 70 PTO and even that would be on the low side. I would start closer to 80 and don't be afraid to go a little above 100. Your talking tillage and a good heavy tractor will make it a lot easier.

If you hire out any tillage and stick to just making hay and don't get a discbine you could get away with 65 PTO HP.


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## siscofarms (Nov 23, 2010)

Take a match to the corn stubble left to clear off the ground a little and no till it this spring .


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## maketo (Jul 31, 2017)

IH 1586 said:


> You are to low on the HP. Bare min. I would go would be 70 PTO and even that would be on the low side. I would start closer to 80 and don't be afraid to go a little above 100. Your talking tillage and a good heavy tractor will make it a lot easier.
> 
> If you hire out any tillage and stick to just making hay and don't get a discbine you could get away with 65 PTO HP.


Hello, thanks! I am constrained on the budget for a tractor - just bought he place - and - I am unsure how this venture will pan out. Hence I am looking at an older Ford 3000 or MF235 or something I can get for $4-7,000 that is available on the local market. As you know there are implements etc. to be bought afterwards - no sense in sinking $20K right off the bat without having a proper outlook. If, however, I learn enough to be self-sufficient with the operation, I can always sell the first tractor and justify a bigger purchase. At least that's my novice reasoning...


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## Hayman1 (Jul 6, 2013)

In the for what it's worth category-

People wanting to start hay from scratch with a 40hp tractor are a dime a dozen on HT. Really, if you are going to do it go 65-80. You should check out Hartman Farm Equipment near Harrisonburg- they almost always have decent used older tractors that will get you started. I have bought and traded with them multiple times. Try to stay under 5K hours, preferably 3,500-4000. Yes, there are tractors running fine with 10K but do you want your one tractor to be a lemon? Something like a 2640 JD 2wd with decent sized rears (means 38's and weight will do wonders. You can run 9 foot discbines with them and a NH 315 baler which hopefully you could pick up for 3500-4K. you need a 2 banger tedder and a rollabar rake. You can start with a sickle bar mower if you ted. Discbines are much nicer for quality hay but most of us started with sickles, we just don't want to think back to how much we hated them after going to a discbine.

if your baler has a kicker, one or two wagons should get you by for a while, there is no such thing as too many wagons. By the way, I know from 40 (actually 35) hp tractors starting hay. Ran the everloving stuff out of that tractor in less than two years. traded up to a 2240 jd (50) hp, not enough, then to a 2640 which was good, just did not have a cab. Then I went to a 2755JD (75) hp which was nice. Now have a 115hp jd, nicer. Now in truth, I am pulling a NH570 baler and a 22' kicker wagon with 250 bales -if stacking- and that is a lot of weight.

Bill is right about the sales tax, I came in from the cold this past year and started charging tax and paid off back tax under the amnesty program. Start right, register.


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## Hayjosh (Mar 24, 2016)

maketo said:


> Hello, thanks! I am constrained on the budget for a tractor - just bought he place - and - I am unsure how this venture will pan out. Hence I am looking at an older Ford 3000 or MF235 or something I can get for $4-7,000 that is available on the local market. As you know there are implements etc. to be bought afterwards - no sense in sinking $20K right off the bat without having a proper outlook. If, however, I learn enough to be self-sufficient with the operation, I can always sell the first tractor and justify a bigger purchase. At least that's my novice reasoning...


Here's the deal--a 40 hp tractor is just too small--especially with hills like what you have. This is what will happen--you'll be out baling, and the tractor will pull the baler fine. But then you hook a wagon to the baler, and then start filling up the wagon and the tractor starts grunting and barely wants to go. Then you're crawling through the field at a snail's pace. At this point, you say screw it and drop the wagon, then pull the wagon through the field with a truck while two people are on the ground huffing bales, a third person is on the wagon, and a fourth person is driving the truck. Now it's taken way too long to get your hay up, you run out of day, and it rains the next day. You get frustrated because it isn't as easy as efficient as it should be and then decide you want to get out of it.

If you start off with a bigger/better tractor right from the start, things go right from the start and there's nowhere near the frustration. Don't set yourself up to fail, set yourself up to succeed. A ford 3000 is too small, you need something in the 4000-5000 range. I have a small operation like you. By the way, the scenario I just described to you wasn't hypothetical--I lived it. I now operate a 4610 which is 63 hp, they're an 80's model tractor and run in the $10,000 range. I'm increasing my acreage exponentially and am already eyeing a larger tractor (JD 4430; 125 hp). If I would have bought the 4610 from the start instead of the Oliver 550 I bought originally, I would have been several thousand dollars ahead.

Also, just custom seeding alone for my ground ran me $280/acre.

Custom farm it out for several years. Pay the custom operator then sell whatever leftover hay you have until you get to the point you can invest in some equipment slowly but surely.


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## maketo (Jul 31, 2017)

Hayjosh said:


> Here's the deal--a 40 hp tractor is just too small--especially with hills like what you have. This is what will happen--you'll be out baling, and the tractor will pull the baler fine. But then you hook a wagon to the baler, and then start filling up the wagon and the tractor starts grunting and barely wants to go. Then you're crawling through the field at a snail's pace. At this point, you say screw it and drop the wagon, then pull the wagon through the field with a truck while two people are on the ground huffing bales, a third person is on the wagon, and a fourth person is driving the truck. Now it's taken way too long to get your hay up, you run out of day, and it rains the next day. You get frustrated because it isn't as easy as efficient as it should be and then decide you want to get out of it.
> 
> If you start off with a bigger/better tractor right from the start, things go right from the start and there's nowhere near the frustration. Don't set yourself up to fail, set yourself up to succeed. A ford 3000 is too small, you need something in the 4000-5000 range. I have a small operation like you. By the way, the scenario I just described to you wasn't hypothetical--I lived it. I now operate a 4610 which is 63 hp, they're an 80's model tractor and run in the $10,000 range. I'm increasing my acreage exponentially and am already eyeing a larger tractor (JD 4430; 125 hp). If I would have bought the 4610 from the start instead of the Oliver 550 I bought originally, I would have been several thousand dollars ahead.
> 
> ...


Hello and thanks! We met the custom hay operator and he was really nice, explained the whole process and I feel comfortable going with him this year. After sounding everything off with you guys here, I am of the opinion that the smart thing to do is to let the man do his job for a year or two while we learn and save up for proper equipment. At that point we will reassess. Thank you for the good advice! Sometimes it pays to take a step back in order to take two steps forward at a later date


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## maketo (Jul 31, 2017)

leeave96 said:


> A few thoughts/questions...
> 
> What are you calling horse quality hay? Have you identified a particular crop, i.e. alfalfa, orchard grass, etc.?
> 
> ...


Bill, I re-read your post a few times. It is dense with good advice. Much obliged Sir.


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## Palmettokat (Jul 10, 2017)

I am one year ahead of you. Had 15 acres that moved from corn to coastal Bermuda sprigged. Corn was combined in that field also but before now it had been disked at least once. I probably disked it three or four times total and ran field cultivator over it once or twice before had it read for the sprigging.

I need storage for hay still and lots. Enough I am not sprigging any more this year. Marketing hay is new to me, have so many unknowns in that. How to advertise, where to advertise and when to advertise.

I have raised corn or soybeans for about 20 years and had none of those issues. You have little control over the price you sell grain for but there is a ready market if so you normally do not have to have storage. You are not trying to find buyers for your crop one wanting this amount and another that amount as with hay.

Doubt would have made the step but have good friend who has been raising hay for a few years and seems to have it working well for him and is willing to help me learn it and has the equipment and will be doing my cutting, raking and baling. Suggest you find someone who you can shadow as has been suggested or who you can work with. Also your probably need to work on getting pesticide license for some chemicals you probably will need require them. I also can not express how much Haytalk helped me. Also suggest you find schedule of what need to do with your crop such as when to fertlize, how often to mow (that may very with different plant used for hay) and what chemicals to use for what weed. May find that on your state Ag Web site.

I did not try to sell any of last year's crop but did get one cutting.

Hope you well.


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## Frantz (Feb 18, 2018)

I've only been haying for only a few years now myself, and have been very limited on budget. My first year I worked with a neighbor and we used his tractor and equipment. Even though it was new, we had a breakdown and ended up running the baler with my MF135, no wagon of course. It...functioned.... It was fun because it was my first bales of hay, but the tractor just didn't have enough weight and shook pretty badly. Then I moved up to a Farmall 460. That actually had worked well for me last year. It's just shy of 50 HP and much heavier and can pull a wagon with everything. This past fall I purchased a Case 1494 that needs some repairs, but I think it will be the sweet spot for small hay operations like yours. 75hp, cab with working AC. Mine is still 2wd, but that hasn't been an issue for me yet, keeps cost down, and options up. As you can see, I fall in the category of enjoying the pain and suffering of old equipment. There is alot of merit to buying new stuff that works if it's in your budget. But the Farmall was heading to a scrap yard and I got it for $300 bucks. Just needed the timing adjusted to get running, though it needs tires badly, that will be this spring. My point is, you can do it cheap if you have the time and patience. For your business to work (even just the business of feeding your own animals), you need the equipment to work at the right time. Make that part of your plan one way or another.

I think you're on the right track in general, but you would certainly outgrow the 40hp tractor in a hurry. You might want one as a backup and as a economical raking tractor though. If you go sicklebar then keep a spare bar around as well as shear pins and belts for the equipment. Timing is very important, and as amazing as it is how fast you can order parts these days, it's not fast enough for making hay.


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## maketo (Jul 31, 2017)

Frantz said:


> I've only been haying for only a few years now myself, and have been very limited on budget. My first year I worked with a neighbor and we used his tractor and equipment. Even though it was new, we had a breakdown and ended up running the baler with my MF135, no wagon of course. It...functioned.... It was fun because it was my first bales of hay, but the tractor just didn't have enough weight and shook pretty badly. Then I moved up to a Farmall 460. That actually had worked well for me last year. It's just shy of 50 HP and much heavier and can pull a wagon with everything. This past fall I purchased a Case 1494 that needs some repairs, but I think it will be the sweet spot for small hay operations like yours. 75hp, cab with working AC. Mine is still 2wd, but that hasn't been an issue for me yet, keeps cost down, and options up. As you can see, I fall in the category of enjoying the pain and suffering of old equipment. There is alot of merit to buying new stuff that works if it's in your budget. But the Farmall was heading to a scrap yard and I got it for $300 bucks. Just needed the timing adjusted to get running, though it needs tires badly, that will be this spring. My point is, you can do it cheap if you have the time and patience. For your business to work (even just the business of feeding your own animals), you need the equipment to work at the right time. Make that part of your plan one way or another.
> 
> I think you're on the right track in general, but you would certainly outgrow the 40hp tractor in a hurry. You might want one as a backup and as a economical raking tractor though. If you go sicklebar then keep a spare bar around as well as shear pins and belts for the equipment. Timing is very important, and as amazing as it is how fast you can order parts these days, it's not fast enough for making hay.


Thank you. New tractors are just way too expensive for me. I priced out a New Holland workmaster 50 and it was in the $30K+ range. Just can't justify it. I will most definitely go the used equipment route. Not easy to pick something up without considerable risk of spending serious money and time on fixing but it is the nature of the beast


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## Palmettokat (Jul 10, 2017)

maketo, it is easy to buy junk, especially if you don't know what to look for. I am by far not a machine expert but have bought a fair amount of used and be very fortunate once I starting buying with my brains and not my heart.

First thing is do not get emotionally involved in the purchase. There is no one used piece of equipment you just must have.

Do not get in a hurry. I find for ME I need to see it at least twice to really see the full machine. The first time I must be thinking wow what a great piece of equipment the next time I ask myself and wonder what tore off this part and how they bent this part. Right off can not think of anything I bought with a second inspection was not pleased with.

Look at it carefully, look under it for rust you can not see from the top. If something is suppose to move see if it will. If it is suppose to be tight see if it is.

Ask questions. If you are talking to the user ask them what is the one thing you need to fix before you use it and be quite. Let them tell you, most likely they will.

Now saying all that I have also bought sight unseen, did that with a heavy equipment inspection on a used Volvo excavator and Volvo who owned the machine guaranteed the inspection. Also bought a used JD tractor with never hearing it run as it was in shop being serviced when I looked at it. Did not notice the busted right rear fender but they replaced it when I asked about it after they delivered it. But I talked with both the Volvo and the JD dealerships enough to develop good relationship with the salesman I dealt with at both.

Do not forget the ole gut check, if it just not does feel right walk away.

If you know it needs repairs get pricing on the repairs before you buy...buying cheap can be very expensive.

Also do not mind asking someone who knows equipment or even hiring mechanic to inspect it for you.

Then when you buy it, get it up and running and test if the best you can days before you need it.


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## wvfarmboy54 (Feb 7, 2018)

wow lots of ideas here , i would get some farmer to work the ground and plant it let him have some of the crop for his work, in wv i go from corn to oats plant grass with oats, thay can be combined for grain or cut for hay, and oat straw can be baled and sold , then you will have hay next year, as for equipment, it isnt cheep, if it is cheep run its wore out. i would get good n new holland haybine,good new holland rakeand maybe get some farmer to bale it you can mow and rake and a good 40 hp tractor can do that new holland and john deere makes a good squar baler and you dont need huge 4x4 tractor to makehay with i have baled a million bales with old 310 nh pulled with a 4600 ford and 18 foot wagons, with that saidall eq dealers arent honest as one man said mr Hartman over around harisonburg was a good one i have heard that aswell i like boone tractor he has several dealerships in va and wv allawys done nme right, farming is dangerius more so if you dont have experence most imporment work safe turn off pto beford geting off tractor be carefull good luck, just my 2 cents.,


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## maketo (Jul 31, 2017)

wvfarmboy54 said:


> wow lots of ideas here , i would get some farmer to work the ground and plant it let him have some of the crop for his work, in wv i go from corn to oats plant grass with oats, thay can be combined for grain or cut for hay, and oat straw can be baled and sold , then you will have hay next year, as for equipment, it isnt cheep, if it is cheep run its wore out. i would get good n new holland haybine,good new holland rakeand maybe get some farmer to bale it you can mow and rake and a good 40 hp tractor can do that new holland and john deere makes a good squar baler and you dont need huge 4x4 tractor to makehay with i have baled a million bales with old 310 nh pulled with a 4600 ford and 18 foot wagons, with that saidall eq dealers arent honest as one man said mr Hartman over around harisonburg was a good one i have heard that aswell i like boone tractor he has several dealerships in va and wv allawys done nme right, farming is dangerius more so if you dont have experence most imporment work safe turn off pto beford geting off tractor be carefull good luck, just my 2 cents.,


Hello, thank you for your kind input. I myself have been reading up on tractor safety etc. - many an accident can happen on a tractor, especially deadly without the ROPS. Even people with 20+ years of experience can just lose focus for a second and boom, deadly or bad accident happens. Our plans have crystallized more - we will plant oats with fescue and orchard and I will get a local guy to seed it for me. He will also rake up the corn leftovers/trash and bale them up and take them off the property. After that the next big question is about weed management. Everyone here is pushing me to spray a burndown and then bring in chicken manure or chemical salts. I moved to the country to have less crap in my life, not more. So, I decided to not spray - instead I will flash graze cows on the hay fields and try to manage them that way. I realize that I will get less hay and more weeds but we will see - I am not under huge pressure to produce (would be nice) - would much rather have a healthy ecosystem in the fields. I realize such statements may get me booed out of here in a hurry but it is what it is...  Thanks again for replying!!


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## maketo (Jul 31, 2017)

Palmettokat said:


> maketo, it is easy to buy junk, especially if you don't know what to look for. I am by far not a machine expert but have bought a fair amount of used and be very fortunate once I starting buying with my brains and not my heart.
> 
> First thing is do not get emotionally involved in the purchase. There is no one used piece of equipment you just must have.
> 
> ...


Thanks! I have been looking for months now. I am slow to spend the money haha but I don't want to buy someone's 4,000+ hours maintenance nightmare. I made a friend locally whose sole job is working on tractors so I am planning on taking him with me everywhere I go to check out equipment


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## dcornettjr (10 mo ago)

maketo said:


> Thanks! I have been looking for months now. I am slow to spend the money haha but I don't want to buy someone's 4,000+ hours maintenance nightmare. I made a friend locally whose sole job is working on tractors so I am planning on taking him with me everywhere I go to check out equipment





maketo said:


> Thanks! I have been looking for months now. I am slow to spend the money haha but I don't want to buy someone's 4,000+ hours maintenance nightmare. I made a friend locally whose sole job is working on tractors so I am planning on taking him with me everywhere I go to check out equipment


Just wondering how this worked out for you and where you are at today ....


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## 8350HiTech (Jul 26, 2013)

Good


dcornettjr said:


> Just wondering how this worked out for you and where you are at today ....



this poster hasn’t been active since 2019. Don’t hold your breath.


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## Hay diddle diddle (Nov 17, 2017)

maketo said:


> - don't know if it was quality horse hay or just any grass that was mowed and baled for cows). Thanks.


Sorry, as a dairyfarmer I find this amusing. Cattle require better hay than useless horses....


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## ACDII (Oct 1, 2021)

Oops, sorry, didn't realize how old this thread was since it was in the new posts.


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