# Hoop Shed



## r82230

Doing a little research on hoop buildings, wondering if I can get some input on do's and don'ts, like's and dislikes, even 'do overs' if you where putting up again.

Seems my new hay shed isn't as big enough for all my needs.  I still have some RB outside, along with equipment.  I would have even more RB outside, if I would have kept more ss bales in inventory, to sell later this fall/winter.

I'm looking at something around 30' to 40' wide, 48'-60 long on a 'pony wall', with enclosed ends (14' x14' doors on each end, plus a person door on one end). Most likely a dirt (gravel/asphalt millings) floor, perhaps rat (wood chuck) walls, below the treated lumber, 4' (or 5') pony walls.

Maybe I will get a little drawing made up, so you can see orientation/location in regards to prevailing wind, other buildings, driveway location (not until next week, going North to close a buddy's cabin/deer hunt??/watch the U-Mich/Ohio-S game even with no female interruptions).

TIA, for thoughts/ideas/suggestions/manufactures/etc.

Larry


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## MrLuggs

I'm in the same boat, as my acres in production are maxing out my current storage - I've been looking a metal arch/quonsets as well, it seems like they have a lot more longevity over the poly tarp'ed structures. I've read a lot of comments about needing ventilation on them though to get condensation out so it's not dripping back onto the bales, so there's a bit more cost in whirly-bird vents.


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## slowzuki

30 ft single pipe hoops are cheap but if they are installed in sheltered areas around here the snow load will collapse them. In open the wind seems to keep them clear.

The truss style can be built to whatever snow load needed but quite a bit more expensive.

The pony wall on most isn't supposed to be taller than 5 ft as the spread of the legs will shove the posts over. Check your costs as the pony wall cost can be significant. Some manufacturers offer truss extensions/legs that go to the ground to save cost of pony wall. Some have brackets to let you mount on the 2x2x4' blocks.

I've been pricing buildings almost 10 years and snow load rated truss type fabric building never beats a basic pole barn on price. Does go up faster though.

If there was a way to install a fabric roof on the trusses of a pole barn we would have a winner for ag applications in my mind.


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## mlappin

We put anymore up and they will be mounted to the 2x2x6 cement blocks. Ground anchors suck, pony walls are taxed here yet a ton plus block is still considered portable. I have two 38x76's and two 42x96's. Smaller ones use 2 3/8" tubing, large ones use 3 1/2" tubing and are considerably more rigid. All are from Clearspan/Farmtek.


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## stack em up

Fairly certain I’ll be putting one up for sheep in the coming months. Gonna research a little more.


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## danwi

To move equipment and hay thru I would suggest doors more like 20x20. Slowzuki we had a neighbor that put up a pole shed style building with just a roof and side walls they left the ends open but they put freestall barn curtains on the side walls. Seems they got a deal on them some how and found a use for them.


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## Gearclash

Every time I consider hoop buildings I soon talk myself into a conventional building. Hoop buildings can work great, or be a horror. Seems to depend on the situation. Property tax rules are a big consideration I would think.


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## mlappin

On ours we closed the west end off and used the standard 12x12 roll up door and left the east end open. On one of the big ones we left both ends open and 2 or 3 rows of cow hay gets stacked in the west end to protect the better hay.


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## rjmoses

Here's a few pics of my Farmtek, built in 2008. Just had 60MPH winds through here two days ago.





















BTW: 12x12 doors would be waaaay too small--ask me how I know?

Ralph


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## IH 1586

I have been thinking of hoop buildings in the near future as well for hay storage. If I could ask if anybody has them if they could post pictures of them.

We're looking to put one on another farm for off site storage for quicker removal off the field. The other site is at the main farm over a existing in ground silage bunk.


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## swmnhay

They put windmills here for a reason.

And that is why I won't put up a hoop barn,HERE

There are quite a few around but I can't count how many I've seen with tarps ripped off or hoops kinked in

Quite a difference in how well they are made also.Do your homework and put up a good one and not because it was the cheapest.Some brands are insurable here and some are not.


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## carcajou

IH 1586 said:


> I have been thinking of hoop buildings in the near future as well for hay storage. If I could ask if anybody has them if they could post pictures of them.
> 
> We're looking to put one on another farm for off site storage for quicker removal off the field. The other site is at the main farm over a existing in ground silage bunk.









One we put up at a previous farm.


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## mlappin

I've not had a structural issue with any of my Clearspans/Farmtek. The smaller two are sitting on treated boards and use ground anchors. However we went and bought our own 36" anchors for each end with the theory if the ends stay put the rest will. Had the 60+ mph winds the other day as well and no issues.


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## r82230

rjmoses said:


> Here's a few pics of my Farmtek, built in 2008. Just had 60MPH winds through here two days ago.
> 
> BTW: 12x12 doors would be waaaay too small--ask me how I know?
> 
> Ralph


Ralph,

How high are your pony walls? What size are the posts (6"x6")? How deep (in concrete?)?

What I'm reading, looks like a 14' x 14' door is now available from FarmTec. That's what I'm considering.



mlappin said:


> We put anymore up and they will be mounted to the 2x2x6 cement blocks. Ground anchors suck, pony walls are taxed here yet a ton plus block is still considered portable. I have two 38x76's and two 42x96's. Smaller ones use 2 3/8" tubing, large ones use 3 1/2" tubing and are considerably more rigid. All are from Clearspan/Farmtek.


Marty,

The 2x2x6 cement blocks tied together somehow? Is the building on the outside of the block or inside (what are the hoops anchor location)? Do you have these blocks stacked 2 or 3 high?

You have me thinking this might be easier than the pony wall, being I have to work with a grade on the build's location.

Tax isn't a problem (YET), on farm structures.



swmnhay said:


> They put windmills here for a reason.
> 
> And that is why I won't put up a hoop barn,HERE


Cy,

This was one of my concerns, BUT there are two of these type buildings north of me in a township, that is currently writing ordinance(s) because there is the POSSIBLITY of a wind mills (there already are WM, 15-20 miles north of this township). You know, ordinances like: all WM must be 1,000-1,300 feet from any other structure and no flickering shadows on neighbor's house so he can't sleep, etc.  Seems I don't have enough wind speed in MY neck of the woods to have the WM folks knocking at my door (even though the wife says I full of hot air sometimes ).

One of these hoop sheds just got put up last year, it is orientated N/S, completely enclosed and completely exposed to prevailing wind (hay equipment storage).

The other hoop shed in that township, I need to get a better look at, it's been up 10+ years, orientated E/W, west end enclosed (east open??). Exposed to the prevailing wind (SW is our prevailing wind direction). This one was a young calf nursery (friend who did milk 220 cows, until last spring). I need to stop and check this building out closer, IIRC he has sides(N/S) that opened too.

My planned location will be buffered on winds from the SW, S & SE, via other buildings. Direct hit from west winds (along with N & E winds), on the side of the building (plan is NS orientation).

The research continues.

Thanks for the thoughts/ideas.

Larry


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## rjmoses

r82230 said:


> Ralph,
> 
> How high are your pony walls? What size are the posts (6"x6")? How deep (in concrete?)?
> 
> What I'm reading, looks like a 14' x 14' door is now available from FarmTec. That's what I'm considering.


Pony wall is 5'. Posts are on 4' centers. They are 6x6's every 4th post and 3 4x6's in between. Buried 42" in dirt but I had come back and put dead men around each post. I'd go all 6x6's in concrete in a 12" hole on a re-do.

16' 32 ' 48' 60'

X 1 2 3 X 1 2 3 X 1 2 3 X 1 2 3 X ------ X is a 6x6

I used PT 2x6s on 2'/3' centers, i.e., 3 rows of 2x6's to tie them together and 2x6 top plate for the arches to sit on.

14x14 is still small to me--but it depends on your objective and equipment. My open end faces away from the predominant weather pattern.

Ralph


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## mlappin

The feet of the hoops sit inside of the key way the runs along the tops of the blocks, the roll up sides then roll down on the outside of the keys. 1 block high is all we went, at better than a ton apiece they don't need tied together, they aint moving. We leveled both sides then stretched a string from end to end and lined the top of the key way up with the string. We used one block per two hoops then have a gap between the blocks for better air flow.


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## r82230

Left out one of the reasons (actual more like 15-20), for the pony walls and enclosed ends. Plan is to have my 4 legged lawn mowers, mow the grass (and trim all the way next to the buildings) on a regular basis. Usually, only let them in for a couple of days at a time between hay cuttings, to help keep the grass under control.

I know these types of grass removers like to rub on things, hence 4' pony (cow) wall is kind of important. The spaces wouldn't work so well for storage (they would probably consider the hoop shed as a hay feeder ).

Larry


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