# Giving up on my gehl 1475, what to replace with?



## atgreene (May 19, 2013)

My gehl 1475 has finally bled me dry. Bought it in VT for $2k 3 years ago as a parts baler. New belts, chains, pickup teeth, strippers, a couple bearings and the main belt drive roller machined, welded and rebearinged (is that a word?).

It's been one thing after another though. The computer never has worked, so I've used a double pole double throw switch to run the tie arm manually. I use a piece of twine with a weight on it that rides one of the guard bars on the front on the baler to tell how big the bale is.

Overall, I like the baler, its fairly easy to work on, but its obviously wore out. I'm looking for advice. I do 250-300 4' silage bales per year. I've got a lead on another 1475 that's running and going. Part of me says go buy that, use mine for parts. The other part of me says run, run far away. Buy some other brand with better support. Looking to spend 8-10k, +-. Suggestions?


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## discbinedr (Mar 4, 2013)

I have another to add to your collection.


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## PaMike (Dec 7, 2013)

8-10K will get you a GOOD NH belt baler like a 640/644. If you only want to go 4 ft tall a NH 630/634/638 would be a 4x4 baler. I would run your baler the rest of this year then buy something in the off season. You can find a good baler in PA in the winter in your price range...


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## gwagen (Apr 20, 2015)

John Deere 456 might be in your price range depending where you are.

INSB (In Before Snow Ball)


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## MDill (Feb 8, 2015)

I would absolutely avoid the NH 630, 638 series of balers. They are just dry balers, you'll be beating your head against the wall trying to make 300 wet rounds with one. I borrowed a 638 last year to make dry bales with, not a great experience. I'd go into detail but it would be a novel. 
Not to sound like a broken record but I still hold to my opinion that the Krone KR125/130 is the best silage baler out there for the money. Easy to work on, no electronics, cheap, low HP requirement...


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## atgreene (May 19, 2013)

Discbinedr, if you're near I might consider it. Dealer and several friends suggest I do a major overhaul of mine. If I could find another one for parts I might. I've seen a couple ads for new Krones for $19k, assume there's no net with that, and hopefully no computer. I might have to consider new if I could buy for under $20k.


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## MDill (Feb 8, 2015)

atgreene said:


> Discbinedr, if you're near I might consider it. Dealer and several friends suggest I do a major overhaul of mine. If I could find another one for parts I might. I've seen a couple ads for new Krones for $19k, assume there's no net with that, and hopefully no computer. I might have to consider new if I could buy for under $20k.


The new ones have gone up quite a bit, then again everything has. I agree that net is better than twine in almost every way, but the Krone's have a decent twine system, compared to the 630/638 NH system. And I know there are a few different options, the 125 I run is a 1995 with a manual start twine tie, my dad has one with electronic tie and my brother's 130 has hydraulic net/twine. I actually like the manual start the best, you just pull a rope to engage the motor and the baler does the rest. 
You said your last baler came out of VT, last I knew Trottier's in South Royalton had a left over Classic Line KR130 with net that someone ordered and didn't pick up, I was looking at it last time I was out there but way way out of my price range. Pretty sure it was under $20k though. Eventually what I would like to upgrade to. 
I'm not familiar with the Gehl balers, are they drum balers like some of the other guys on here have? Mostly NH belt balers around here.


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## PaMike (Dec 7, 2013)

I forgot that he said wet bales. You are correct, stay away from the 630 series. The 640/650 series would be fine though. The 630 are a light duty baler.

Discbine Dr is in lancaster county Pa. Not THAT far away...


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## atgreene (May 19, 2013)

My gehl is a belt baler. Makes a decent bale if you bale wide windrows or weave a bit. Mine came from greenwoods over in s royalton? The computer has never worked, but I'm not a fan of computers on farm equipment anyway. Might have to call on that krone.


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## atgreene (May 19, 2013)

I'm headed to Gordonville pa next month, might be worth looking at. Figured while we're down there I'd do some baler shopping.


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## Dill (Nov 5, 2010)

atgreene said:


> My gehl is a belt baler. Makes a decent bale if you bale wide windrows or weave a bit. Mine came from greenwoods over in s royalton? The computer has never worked, but I'm not a fan of computers on farm equipment anyway. Might have to call on that krone.


Greenwoods is no more, or at least not independent.


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## atgreene (May 19, 2013)

I heard they went out. Somebody else is in there, my father was through there two weeks ago. Family friends live over the hill in Chelsea.


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## stickney farm (Jan 17, 2011)

Greenwood was bought out by champlain valley equipment


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## stickney farm (Jan 17, 2011)

I would go with the krone 130 baler for the amount of bales you do. very simple and reliable.


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## atgreene (May 19, 2013)

I'm curious why when I call dealers they tell me the cheapest I'll buy a new one for is $28-30k, yet I open tractor house mag and find these for $18k & $19k? Does it cost 10k to haul it to Maine? Seems like there's a whole lot of wiggle room in their pricing. I'll drive to WV and haul one home if it saves me $10k. Spoke to the local krone dealer today, guess I need to take him this add and ask wtf?


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## stickney farm (Jan 17, 2011)

The 125 is a cheaper baler. for one it doesn't have a wide pickup( I wouldn't want a baler without one). around here people have bought them new for 21-24000 with and without net at salem farm supply and trottiers. I know of three belima 130 bought in the last year and a half for those prices


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## siscofarms (Nov 23, 2010)

Hard to find one that's in good shape but theres always the original silage baler . NH 853 or 855 chain balers . They always kind of got a bad wrap but if you kept maintance on them and had the air bags . You could not beat them . And they'll bale any thing .


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## atgreene (May 19, 2013)

Found a gehl 1310 at a local dealer. Turns out a friend had it. He's known for meticulous maintenance and care of his stuff. 1310 seems to have been the red headed stepchild though. I talked to my friend that owned it, he liked it, had no issues, said it made a good bale for his operation. At this point I need something this week to get back up and running. Am I going to kick myself for buying a 1310, or is a well cared for baler that has been taken care of worth it? At least I know the history on this one, anything else I may be buying someone else's problem. Hate being under the gun,but I've only got 1/2 my hay crop done.


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## atgreene (May 19, 2013)

Found a New Holland 648, 2002 with 7000 bales through it that'll I'm going to check out. Been all over the countryside calling and checking, its the best I can find thus far. Pickings are pretty slim up this way. The 1310 makes me nervous, and they're asking too much. For under 10k the 648 is supposed to be excellent shape, but no net. At this point it'll get me up and running until I fix/repair/junk the gehl.


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## Dill (Nov 5, 2010)

Call up to canada,

http://www.agdealer.com/list/view_image.cfm?Krone-KR130-Round-Baler-694702&SearchID=135370464&startrow=8&Act=EQUIPVIEW&listpage=index.cfm&ID=694702

I'm willing to bet this is about 10k US, probably a lot less.

http://www.agdealer.com/list/view_image.cfm?Krone-KR130-Round-Baler-704875&SearchID=135370464&startrow=1&Act=EQUIPVIEW&listpage=index.cfm&ID=704875

http://www.agdealer.com/list/view_image.cfm?Krone-KR125-Round-Baler-704068&SearchID=135370464&startrow=1&Act=EQUIPVIEW&listpage=index.cfm&ID=704068

All of those dealers are going to know a way to get it down to Maine.


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## atgreene (May 19, 2013)

Wow! I think I need to send them an email. Thanks!


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## atgreene (May 19, 2013)

Talking to them on that first one you posted. Delivered to my door, net & twine, approx 15,000 bales through it, supposedly in great shape, clean and field ready, $7500.

Or, I just looked at a new Holland 648 silage special, no net, 7,000 bales, stored inside, some sheet metal banged up from hitting with tractor tire on tight turn, $9500, one hour away.

Both dealers 45 minutes away.

Dealer in Quebec also has a 648, would deliver that one for $9500. He suggested I stick with the krone though, for what I'm doing.

Anyone see any issues with a krone 130 with 15k bales? He said I'd never wear out the chain at 300/year as long as I store it inside.

Input is appreciated. Buying sight unscene is a little unnerving.


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## MDill (Feb 8, 2015)

The KR130 my brother bought has a couple issues, mainly just learning to use it because of the differences between the 130 and the 125s that were used to. Not sure how many bales have been through his. Have you ever looked at a Krone in person? They are pretty small and compact. Very easy to work on, all the bearings are universal bearings. Each slat on the elevator has a 3 chain link holding it and the next elevator together. Each slat has two bearings, one on either end (6207 2RS). Everything comes apart with snap rings on the elevator. 
A couple questions I would have for the dealer are if it had/has a preserative applicator, if it has an automatic oiler, has it been sitting outside and how does the twine tie?(net should be hydraulic, twine can be manual, electric or hydraulic)
I think the 130s are really nice balers. If it helps at all I run a 1995 KR125, we just got it last year at an auction. It's seen a lot of bales, looks like it spent a lot of time outside, no oilers. I do about the same amount of bales as you, but half are dry. The main drive bearing burnt out at the end of first cut, TSC had the bearing and flange, took an hour or so to fix. It would have lasted longer but my baler did not have a greasable flange like the newer KR125s and KR130s. But I have had no issues with the elevator or other drive chains. 
Buying sight unseen is a crapshoot, but so is buying something an hour away! You could go over something with a fine tooth comb and still miss something. 
My brother's KR130 needs some bearings on the elevator chain, but the ones that are on it will last through this years bales. His also came out of Quebec.
If you do the KR130 make sure it comes with an operators manual, also Messick's has the parts break down for Krone balers which is nice. Usually the Krones come with a parts book too though.


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## atgreene (May 19, 2013)

I asked him about the oiler and he said it does not have one. The tie is electric, but the pickup is hydraulic. Not sure on preservative, I'll ask.

Thanks for the info. I've only ever looked at a krone casually, not planning on buying one at the time.


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## atgreene (May 19, 2013)

He also mentioned that the pickup is susceptible to damage on these, and to make sure I ran it higher rather than lower, as hitting something would do damage?


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## Dill (Nov 5, 2010)

The only damage we've got so far is a dirt to the back of the operator's head and busted pickup teeth. I was the primary culprit for running too low. And I'm running the pickup my higher now.


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## MDill (Feb 8, 2015)

Not trying to talk you into that specific KR130, I just don't have any knowledge on the 648. My father in law runs one though, nice baler, picked it up at Fornier's year before last on the cheap. Came out of Quebec also now that I think of it. 
I'd rather run a Krone myself, I use a BR740A at work and still prefer the little KR125s in balage.


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## atgreene (May 19, 2013)

Sent a bank check with a signed contract yesterday. Hopefully the krone will be in my dooryard late this week. Tore the gehl apart, broken stub shaft on the main belt drive roller (2nd time in 3 years). I'm going to have the roller shaft machined and repaired so I can sell it. I've got too much in it to junk it.


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## MDill (Feb 8, 2015)

Did that baler get dropped off yet? 
If so have you had a chance to use it?


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## atgreene (May 19, 2013)

Supposed to be delivered tomorrow. Canceled vaca plans so I could be home to receive it. Hopefully it arrives on time, I'm planning on cutting as soon as it lands.
Salesman hit me with a little surprise, said it needs 3 remotes now, twine tie, pick-up and gate. I'm hoping to run twin off my loader spare remotes, let the pickup down once I get to the field and swap to my gate. We'll see if I can tomorrow. Kubota wants $850 per remote, I'll buy the electronic stackable ones before I spend $1700 on two remotes.


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## atgreene (May 19, 2013)

Baler was supposed to be here afternoon, finally called the salesman at 5 pm, he called the driver (his uncle) who said he got held up at customs and then broke down in Bangor. He was back on the road and would be here around 9pm. Everything I do turns into a cluster. I planned to have the afternoon to set it up and test it, now I'll loose tomorrow then its going to rain for 4-5 days. I'd be frustrated if I thought it would do any good.


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## Dill (Nov 5, 2010)

Mine is the same way. I've been unplugging the loader to run the pickup and tie and have the gate on the remote lever that way I figure I'm not going to dump the gate accidentally. Mine was colored coded, unfortunately in French. Figuring out which was which and writing those on the inside of the lid helped. The 125s have a selectable valve between the pickup and the gate, it would be nice to get one of those rigged up. Cause I only have one tractor I can bale with now.


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## luke strawwalker (Jul 31, 2014)

Dill said:


> Mine is the same way. I've been unplugging the loader to run the pickup and tie and have the gate on the remote lever that way I figure I'm not going to dump the gate accidentally. Mine was colored coded, unfortunately in French. Figuring out which was which and writing those on the inside of the lid helped. The 125s have a selectable valve between the pickup and the gate, it would be nice to get one of those rigged up. Cause I only have one tractor I can bale with now.


Get a splitter valve from TSC or various other (online) vendors...

We ran one for years on our Ford 5200 pulling our Gehl baler-- the old Ford only had one remote and the Gehl baler needs two-- one for the twine arm, the other to open the rear gate. Pull the knob up, use the remote lever to wrap the bale, once retracted, hit the knob down, use the remote lever to open the gate, then close it back up, pull the knob up so you're ready to tie the next bale, and go to baling...

Even simpler with your setup-- pull the knob up, lower the pickup, push the knob down, go to baling, when finished, pull the knob up, raise the pickup, and hit the road...

Works great, and only costs maybe $100-150 bucks at most...

Later! OL JR


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## atgreene (May 19, 2013)

The baler arrived last night around 9. Had a little issue unloading, but other than that it was great. Alcide Equip has been great to deal with, he spent over an hour last night hooking the machine up and having me test run it. Went over all the adjustments and things to watch for. He sold this baler new to a local farmer, so knew the history. He's also a gehl dealer, so be knows gehls, looked at mine, and in broken English said "the gehl, complicated, krone, no, simple". Lol.

Spent the morning hooking it up and figuring it out, I like it. It is very simple, no fancy crap, two wire on the whole baler, everything seems very accessible. Hopefully later we'll roll some hay.


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## MDill (Feb 8, 2015)

That second pictures looks a little interesting!

Also I didn't realize TSC sold those splitter valves, learn something new every day.


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## atgreene (May 19, 2013)

It slipped off the blocks as it came over off his wheel fenders. It really wasn't the right trailer for the job, but it worked.

Baled 17 bales with it today, had a few issues, all with twine. First off the twine would self feed into the baler when I got into a large windrow. Finally tightened down the compression on the twine enough to stop that. Second issue (tractor problem), when I close the gate the front remote on the loader I'm using to run the tie gets back pressure from the gate, forcing it back into tie mode. I'm going to need a splitter or second remote, as that front one is not reliable for this sort of use. I swapped tie and gate remotes so the gate was on the front loader remote, then the gate creeped open.

Other than that it worked good. No plugs, no issues, just operator error.


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## luke strawwalker (Jul 31, 2014)

Splitter valve is just the ticket... isolate the one that creeps on you when you're working... and it's about "cheap enough"...

Want to get a newer baler myself some day to replace our 30 odd year old Ford 552 round baler (built by Gehl, same as a 1400 IIRC),
but the one thing I've learned from reading on this forum is I DON'T want ANY [email protected] fancy electronics on it WHATSOEVER... two wires sounds
okay... all this "my monitor quit so it won't tie, can't bale, wrap don't work, whatever" is just too much BS for me...

Later and good luck! OL JR


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## Dill (Nov 5, 2010)

Its a good looking Krone. And yes caveman simple baler. Hay in, tie and bale out. Repeat as needed.

Looks like it has net as well. One trick for the twine if you have to rethread the rollers keep a long cable tie in the baler, tie the twine to the cable tie and use that to thread it past the guides and the rollers. Much easier since you have to keep the those things open while you push the twine.

Mine has the beeping monitor but the previous owner cut the wires. So zero wires right now. The indicators on the baler work well.


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## deadmoose (Oct 30, 2011)

Extra remotes can come in handy. Sound pricey but make your tractor that much more versatile.


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## atgreene (May 19, 2013)

The regular splitter won't work, I've got a cab. Trying to reach it or routing hoses would be difficult. I'm looking at one of these splitters for now. 
http://www.sloanex.com/fasse-20-gpm-iso-hydraulic-doubler-remote-valve-kit.html

My monitor still has the European style plug on it, so I need to swap that out. I used the bale monitors on the front to tell me when its full. I found it shot up to the full mark all at once, then would creep back down as I wrapped. Is this normal, should I let it spin a bit and see if they come back down before wrapping? Does it compress more as you sit still spinning the bale?


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## slowzuki (Mar 8, 2011)

It should work similar to a roller baler, when you close gate it pre-tensions that may or may not bleed down a bit. As you bale and it get nearly full it will start to build pressure on the gauge. If you slow down the last bit of the bale, it will slowly build pressure or even fall off slightly as the hay packs in. If you just run full tilt until full the gauge will spike up then come back down once you stop to tie giving a softer bale.

The more turns at high pressure at the end the tighter the bale will be. You can stuff the baler as fast as the pickup with take hay the first 3/4 of the bale and it won't matter to the bale density, its all in the last 1/8 or 1/4 going into the baler.



atgreene said:


> The regular splitter won't work, I've got a cab. Trying to reach it or routing hoses would be difficult. I'm looking at one of these splitters for now.
> http://www.sloanex.com/fasse-20-gpm-iso-hydraulic-doubler-remote-valve-kit.html
> 
> My monitor still has the European style plug on it, so I need to swap that out. I used the bale monitors on the front to tell me when its full. I found it shot up to the full mark all at once, then would creep back down as I wrapped. Is this normal, should I let it spin a bit and see if they come back down before wrapping? Does it compress more as you sit still spinning the bale?


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## Dill (Nov 5, 2010)

Yes it will compress more while its spinning which is why it drops during the tie process. The pressure gauges are like my old dodge's fuel gauge, they spend most of their time on full or empty, and very briefly in between. Take it full, stop and let it compress and you can usually add a bit more hay for a really full bale.


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## atgreene (May 19, 2013)

Good to know, thanks. If it stops raing I'll pull the tarp off it and make some more silage.


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## atgreene (May 19, 2013)

Turned out to be a nice day, did another 17 bales. More issues with twine, mostly not staying in the guide holes below the twine feed rolls. I think I have the twine too tight to keep hay from pulling it in and its now snapping back under pressure through that guide hole so the little arm doesn't grab it to carry it to the outside of the bale.

Also think I fixed my hydro problem. As long as I sloy close the gate it doesn't put pressure to the tie arm.

Had issues with pickup teeth as well. Whoever replaced them last didn't get all of them tight, had 3 turn sideways, one completely unbolted and was clanging around inside the pickup.


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## Dill (Nov 5, 2010)

When you start the tie, feed some hay in. That will suck the twine in and the arms will grab better. Took me a couple years to figure that one out.


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## luke strawwalker (Jul 31, 2014)

atgreene said:


> The regular splitter won't work, I've got a cab. Trying to reach it or routing hoses would be difficult. I'm looking at one of these splitters for now.
> http://www.sloanex.com/fasse-20-gpm-iso-hydraulic-doubler-remote-valve-kit.html
> 
> My monitor still has the European style plug on it, so I need to swap that out. I used the bale monitors on the front to tell me when its full. I found it shot up to the full mark all at once, then would creep back down as I wrapped. Is this normal, should I let it spin a bit and see if they come back down before wrapping? Does it compress more as you sit still spinning the bale?


Sounds like my Ford 552 (Gehl) baler... hydraulic pressure on the bale tapers off while wrapping...

Think it's more about pressure bleeding off as the bale sits turning but not getting any bigger than anything else... this is straight hydraulics, no airbags or other nonsense, and since liquids don't compress--- any irregularities in the shape of the bale push the door back a tiny bit more, which forces more oil past the check valve, then the bale rolls and pressure drops off the cylinders, and voila-- pressure drop.

The main thing is that the pressure should hold steady during baling as the baler is being fed hay and the bale is constantly getting bigger in the chamber-- not that I've ever had the time or inclination to really stare at the guage... too much else going on to worry about...
I set my pressure valve to "maximum" and leave it there-- those old balers didn't roll with anything like the pressure of "modern" balers anyway... On the Ford/Gehl, the shuttle springs determine the bale pressure until the bale is roughly 3 foot diameter anyway...

If it's rolling pretty bales, I wouldn't worry about it.

As for the valve, well, if that's the way you want to go, that would certainly work. Might check a tractor salvage company, though-- they might have some "pull offs" cheaper, or something in stock...

Didn't you say that basically you needed 3 remotes because 1) it used hydraulics to raise the pickup between fields, 2) hydraulic circuit for the twine tie, 3) hydraulic circuit for the rear gate??

If so (and it were me, since I'm habitually cheap) I'd just install a diverter valve on the tongue of the baler in a convenient spot... plumb the pickup raise/lower cylinder(s) into one side of it, and the twine tie into the other...

Lower the pickup when you pull in the field, hop down out of the cab and pull up (or push down) the knob on the diverter to "lock out" the pickup cylinders and switch over to the twine tie cylinder, hop back in the cab and fly...

Course, it's a little more work, and I guess $450 for a valve isn't TOO bad... LOL

Later and good luck! OL JR


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## atgreene (May 19, 2013)

Fwiw, I've run about 100 bales through the "new" krone. Swapped to net wrap, glad I did. Had some issues with the net wrapping the feed roller, other than that net is slicker than a fresh caught eel on the ice.

Overall, I'm impressed. The bales aren't as heavy or as pretty as my gehl, but I've only plugged once (crossing a wet heavy windrow, my mistake), and any issue I've had has been easily corrected. Still a lot to learn, but I'm happy with it.


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