# What's in your shop?



## paoutdoorsman

I know some of you guys on here wrench. I thought it might be neat to have a thread where we can share the projects/jobs that we are working on. I'll start.

A customer brought in a 3720 and said the 4 wheel drive wasn't working. Found that both seal plugs under the front spindles were gone, and obviously no oil in either of the front drive hubs. Luckily the center diff retained enough oil to keep it lubricated. The right side drive is completely torn up...


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## DSLinc1017

paoutdoorsman said:


> I know some of you guys on here wrench. I thought it might be neat to have a thread where we can share the projects/jobs that we are working on. I'll start.
> 
> A customer brought in a 3720 and said the 4 wheel drive wasn't working. Found that both seal plugs under the front spindles were gone, and obviously no oil in either of the front drive hubs. Luckily the center diff retained enough oil to keep it lubricated. The right side drive is completely torn up...


I "Liked" your post, but please don't get me wrong, So sorry! Its perhaps a good thing you got to it before more damage or getting stuck in a field with the wheel under the tractor.

Then you would be posting in the wall of shame


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## DSLinc1017

This isn't necessarily a "farming" shop issue, but a fun project while making hay is on its winter break.


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## mlappin

Building a new wood elevator for the firewood processor atm.

Old one was so shot the chain would just fall apart with no wood on it, flat chain was worn to the point where the links were paper thin.

Picked up a New Idea ear corn elevator for half of what new conveyor chain would have cost to repair the old one.

Took a section out to shorten it to thirty foot, cut another couple feet off the top end as it was all tore up from the sprockets and chains rubbing the sides of the elevator. Turns out the bearings had seized on the top shaft and the sprockets started to rotate on the shaft, too hogged out for 1", can't get em chucked square enough in the lathe to bore em out to 1 1/8" then would have to change the slack adjusters as well as they have no room to goto a 1 1/8 bearing with the larger OD, so just ordered two new flame cut sprockets, should be here any minute unless UPS is running late.

Going to drive this from the top with a hydraulic motor and a B belt to act as a clutch if something should jam. Going to top drive as the old was a bottom drive and with all the slack always at the bottom weird things happened when handling firewood.


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## BWfarms

Here's my 'shop' project at the moment lol. Building a 70x120 shop for 1/64 scale model farm.


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## slowzuki

Currently a flail mulcher torn apart getting newer bearings, a subaru getting a timing belt and oil pump, a Suzuki sx4 car getting clutch and master cylinder, and a line up outside the door waiting to get in for oil changes and cylinder repacking.


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## Lewis Ranch

Got my 5325 apart right now having injector issues, last of the parts came in today but with highs in the 30's the next few days we won't be working on it till next week.


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## DSLinc1017

BWfarms said:


> Here's my 'shop' project at the moment lol. Building a 70x120 shop for 1/64 scale model farm.
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That's awesome! Can we get a shot of the entire farm?


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## r82230

BWfarms said:


> Here's my 'shop' project at the moment lol. Building a 70x120 shop for 1/64 scale model farm.


Did you have to get a building permit for that size tool shed? :lol:

Larry

PS looks impressive (someone is much more talented than me).


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## slowzuki

I burned up one side of my little kubota one winter. They used clear Kubota SUDT fluid and the seal went in the winter, didn't notice in the snow. I was putting lots of miles on doing snow removal and it ate the bearing cage up letting the balls come out. My bottom caps stayed on and it started making noise when the pieces went through the gears.

Surprisingly straightforward to work on once you find out how to take them apart.



paoutdoorsman said:


> I know some of you guys on here wrench. I thought it might be neat to have a thread where we can share the projects/jobs that we are working on. I'll start.
> 
> A customer brought in a 3720 and said the 4 wheel drive wasn't working. Found that both seal plugs under the front spindles were gone, and obviously no oil in either of the front drive hubs. Luckily the center diff retained enough oil to keep it lubricated. The right side drive is completely torn up...


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## BWfarms

DSLinc1017 said:


> That's awesome! Can we get a shot of the entire farm?


I just started on building a farm display so there's nothing to it yet. For years as I accumulated the toy tractors and implements, I envisioned building one. I sort of have time now so I decided to go ahead and start. I will definitely share pics as I get it set up.



r82230 said:


> Did you have to get a building permit for that size tool shed? :lol:
> 
> Larry
> 
> PS looks impressive (someone is much more talented than me).


Shhhh we don't tell anybody nothing!!! If they come and appraise, I'll tell them it's been there for a while and recently renovated. If they don't believe that, I will say it's portable...just let be disassemble it one piece at a time... Thanks, I know I'll wow you with the finished product!


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## Lostin55

BWfarms said:


> Here's my 'shop' project at the moment lol. Building a 70x120 shop for 1/64 scale model farm.
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I wish my shop had a granite floor. .... very nicely done. I can't wait to see the finished product.


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## Farmerbrown2

Just finished converting two JD 4020's to twelve volt had to put water pump on second one so that held us up a couple days . Boy do those gear reduction starters spin those old motors over good 25 degrees hear tonight and spun the motor like it was 80 degrees. Tomorrow night going to put sheet metal back on . Then I've got a IH 560 gas tractor that hasn't run in about 18 years I hope the motor isn't seezed up that will probably need a valve job and I know it jumps out of 2nd and 3rd gear . It was our grinder mixer tractor the last five years it ran .


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## PaMike

1-Yamaha Sidebyside, waiting on thermostat. Overheating issue

2. Case 465 skidsteer, almost complete. Needs battery holddown, floor plate put back on and new new hydraulic coupler

3. NH LS160 skidsteer. Had new engine dropped in. Everything completed except the oil cooler needs cleaned

4. LX665 skidsteer, all kinds of issues from wiring, to bushings to park brake..

5. NH 408 discbine in process of new cutterbar..

6. 12 Solidflex skidsteer tires that need new tread cut into them.

I never get caught up...


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## Ranger518

Doing some maintenance on my John deere 336 by replacing a few bearings, ajjusting the plunger, new pick up times, and chains and while I had it apart figured I would go ahead and sand it down a little and give it a new paint job.


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## mlappin

farmerbrown said:


> Just finished converting two JD 4020's to twelve volt had to put water pump on second one so that held us up a couple days . Boy do those gear reduction starters spin those old motors over good 25 degrees hear tonight and spun the motor like it was 80 degrees. Tomorrow night going to put sheet metal back on . Then I've got a IH 560 gas tractor that hasn't run in about 18 years I hope the motor isn't seezed up that will probably need a valve job and I know it jumps out of 2nd and 3rd gear . It was our grinder mixer tractor the last five years it ran .


I changed one out on my 1600 Oliver to the gear reduction, made a world of difference on cold starts.


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## IH 1586

Eventually the 2355 will go in to get a clutch. Still using, have to plow snow, never know when a customer will want round bales. Sucks when it is the only loader.

4040 fix many hydraulic leaks

1586 fix many hydraulic leaks, electrical issues, engine oil leak


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## somedevildawg

Have the JCB 520 in the shop with the engine out....seems the water and oil decided to intermingle


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## PaMike

somedevildawg said:


> Have the JCB 520 in the shop with the engine out....seems the water and oil decided to intermingle


You still didn't get that back together??? Its been like 2 weeks!!!


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## stack em up

499 Haybine getting the rolls out

Chore tractors and skidloader just cuz it's warm

And a dresser my wife bought getting converted into a bathroom vanity.

Allis Chalmers WD needing a valve grind


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## Farmineer95

Still catching up on last years winter projects.
JD H is coming along. Flywheel start so hoping to keep my fingers.
4020 needing overhaul.
Kubota Rtv has new drive lines in rearend.
The list and aspirations always seem to be more than time allows....


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## somedevildawg

PaMike said:


> You still didn't get that back together??? Its been like 2 weeks!!!


Of course I didn't order a couple of parts from ken because I "thought" I could source them locally....shoulda ordered them  everything should be here Monday. The engine is back in the machine now....sob is heavy, had to get a lift on steroids to get it up/over/in place. Chinese lift worked ok coming out, barely lifted high enuf but it worked. But that was without oil pan  head  starter  injection pump, alternator etc......it was considerably heavier going back in, hence the need for a more robust lift. Next on the list is my old worn out manitou Tele, same engine, same problem.....


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## Lewis Ranch

What's it costing to rebuild those engines?


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## somedevildawg

Lewis Ranch said:


> What's it costing to rebuild those engines?


Not too bad....the one out of the JCB is getting just the parts it needs.....water pump, housing (that's the leak) T-stat, gasket set, belts, couple of hoses.....parts about 1k, labor about 5 days

The other will be around 2k for parts, (all of above plus Pistons, sleeves, etc.) plus labor.....I do have a spare Perkins T1004 engine to throw in the manitou while the other one gets a rebuild. I found that engine in North Dakota, complete....guy had a "project" going....was gonna put the Perkins diesel in a Ford ranger PU. That never materialized thankfully and I bought the engine from him. Amazingly, it only cost $350 to ship an engine from ND to GA  whodathunkit?


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## Bgriffin856

Not much at the moment unless its emergency. 80% of projects are preformed outside or a three sided shed need warmer weather. Have a two car garage at our other property that's our "shop" it's a tight fit for bigger tractors.... still have the 1066 half tore apart with spun rod bearings and many other small issues parked in one side.

Poor 856 needs a new alternator or charging needs checked. Needs new starter a few oil leaks fixed and remote valves rebuilt

Got a silo unloader with a chute held on with a bungee and a small amount of steel/rust. Praying it gets me through the silo (knock wood). Have a parts unloader with a good chute I want to swap out but I dont want to fight it up the silo chute


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## paoutdoorsman

DSLinc1017 said:


> This isn't necessarily a "farming" shop issue, but a fun project while making hay is on its winter break.


What's on the menu for the Moto Guzzi DSL?


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## JD3430

Fixing manure spreader. Needs chain idlers and several zerks replaced. Replacing pump motor on Harvest Tec. Tire on my baler is shot. Nothing difficult. I guess that's a good thing. Could be a lot worse repairs!!


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## DSLinc1017

paoutdoorsman said:


> What's on the menu for the Moto Guzzi DSL?


It's an 86 Lemans IV, that is new to me. The rear seat and fairing were all gone when I picked it up. Along with the front fairing/head light.
The previous owner wanted to make a cafe out of it, so the seat tabs had been cut off. These held up the original seat fender assembly.
The plan is to have new tabs welded on that just happened on Friday. will pick it up on Monday from the body shop. Was going to weld my self but desided to have a pro do the work. This will allow me to restore the original seat and rear fairing.
The front has a BMW 8" round head light that will stay, going to add a lemans 1 fairing to it. 
I'm also replacing all fluids including fork juice. Might add an after market fork damper if it's not stiff 
enough. I hate a front end that dives 
The valve seats were re ground with new sleeves as well. 
Then..... wait for warmer weather!


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## JD3430

DSLinc1017,

How's the '14 Dodge 5500 holding up? 
I'm getting the itch....A new one with airbag suspension and exhaust brake really has me thinking.


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## DSLinc1017

JD3430 said:


> DSLinc1017,
> How's the '14 Dodge 5500 holding up?
> I'm getting the itch....A new one with airbag suspension and exhaust brake really has me thinking.


It's been trouble free! Really like the exhaust break, then coupled with the trailer mode on the transmission I never need to put much pressure on the breaks at all. 
In comparison my Chevy has been just as stable with comparable exhaust breaking and down shifting trailer mode. 
I like the dodge exhaust break a bit better only because I can leave it activated all the time, it also has a setting that allows to keep the same speed. Where the chevy has to be re activated every time you re start the truck. 
Another pet peeve with the chevy is threre is no dash indicator that showes you are in 4x4. Only a small amber light on the knob. I forget I'm in all the time.


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## notmydaytoday

I got a 2n Ford hood and fenders off so i can paint and new hoses, belts and a tune up before it goes back together.

Then disc mower hydraulic rebuild and new blades.

Then 544 Farmall needing rewired. Hoping to get done before hay season gets here.


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## paoutdoorsman

Waiting on parts for the 3720 and 4590, so I squeezed in an 02 Tahoe for a buddy and put another 4L60E transmission in it. The original just gave up reverse at 194K.


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## hog987

My place only has an old two car garage. The doors are only 6.5 feet tall so nothing of mine fits in there except the car. But with all my tools in there not much else would fit anyways. So my repair jobs take place outside the door. Not much fun on a day like today when I changed the transmission oil on the tractor when its -20 outside. Or putting wheel bearings on thevwife's car. But at least I wait for a warm day to weld my panels.

On my wish list is to get a shop big enough to put the tractor in plus another piece of machinery. But got a steal of a deal on this farm. But everything is old and run down so the list of stuff to repair or rebuild is very large. Nothing time or money can't solve.


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## slowzuki

Don't worry hog, somehow even with a shop I've returned to outdoor repairs because old and run down means multiple concurrent repairs plugging up the shop.


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## endrow

Bgriffin856 said:


> Not much at the moment unless its emergency. 80% of projects are preformed outside or a three sided shed need warmer weather. Have a two car garage at our other property that's our "shop" it's a tight fit for bigger tractors.... still have the 1066 half tore apart with spun rod bearings and many other small issues parked in one side.
> 
> Poor 856 needs a new alternator or charging needs checked. Needs new starter a few oil leaks fixed and remote valves rebuilt
> 
> Got a silo unloader with a chute held on with a bungee and a small amount of steel/rust. Praying it gets me through the silo (knock wood). Have a parts unloader with a good chute I want to swap out but I dont want to fight it up the silo chute


Back when we had silos the 70 footers first silo unloader had a lot of big parts and I would go up the outside ladder and hoist the part up with a pulley and then shove the part threw the roof door and the lower the part down to the using the same rope and pulley.


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## mlappin

endrow said:


> Back when we had silos the 70 footers first silo unloader had a lot of big parts and I would go up the outside ladder and hoist the part up with a pulley and then shove the part threw the roof door and the lower the part down to the using the same rope and pulley.


Been there, done that.


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## mlappin

Right now building more wood racks from salvaged metal. I build em large enough to stack half a cord in each one, the wife does it on nicer days, when ones empty I carry it back out to the wood pile with the skid steer to be refilled and carry a full one back to the boiler. Eventually would like to have enough to have an entire winters worth of wood already stacked ahead of time.


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## slowzuki

I built a bunch of these out of three pallets and a tin roof. The ones I took care to do right have lasted 10 years. Since then my buddies orchard has been a source of free apple bins so I don't bother with the pallets huts.

I noticed a neighbour using the metal crates from those plastic IBC totes for the same thing.



mlappin said:


> Right now building more wood racks from salvaged metal. I build em large enough to stack half a cord in each one, the wife does it on nicer days, when ones empty I carry it back out to the wood pile with the skid steer to be refilled and carry a full one back to the boiler. Eventually would like to have enough to have an entire winters worth of wood already stacked ahead of time.


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## mlappin

I thought I had scored a bunch of old potato bins, the guy that had em already removed one side so he could stack wood in em, problem is when he quit using them he stacked em in a row on the north side of a fencerow, spent an hour digging and the best ones we could find would probably self destruct once they were full and an attempt was made to move em. Can't get decent pallets for free anymore since all the seed companies want them back now.


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## Smoothy

Working on 4320 John Deere. Picked up at auction and had some wiring "issues" like someone got crazy with a side cutters. Kind of a big puzzle got new harness and getting it back together. Good inside project when it's -30 with the wind outside!


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## broadriverhay

Painting the 3 pt hitch hay grapple I built tomorrow. Weather is going to great here for a while.


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## Ranger518

Ranger518 said:


> Doing some maintenance on my John deere 336 by replacing a few bearings, ajjusting the plunger, new pick up times, and chains and while I had it apart figured I would go ahead and sand it down a little and give it a new paint job.


Finished painting and custom decals on my John deere 336 baler.


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## PaMike

endrow said:


> Back when we had silos the 70 footers first silo unloader had a lot of big parts and I would go up the outside ladder and hoist the part up with a pulley and then shove the part threw the roof door and the lower the part down to the using the same rope and pulley.


Did you do away with silos Endrow? You go to trench? It seams people either love or hate upright silos...


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## broadriverhay

This was in my shop. All done now.


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## mlappin

Ranger518 said:


> Finished painting and custom decals on my John deere 336 baler.


Wrong shade of green, but its still purty.

Around here our landlords would want more money as they would think we could afford a new baler therefore must be flush with cash.


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## somedevildawg

broadriverhay said:


> This was in my shop. All done now.


 good job, looks nice, always good to get it out of the shop....maybe we should start a "out of the shop and into the field" thread


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## SCtrailrider

broadriverhay said:


> This was in my shop. All done now.


Nice work should be handy in a few months...

I'm only 70 miles from you, I might ride down for a meet n greet some time this spring...


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## broadriverhay

Looks great Ranger518. Any shade of green is good.


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## broadriverhay

Sure SCtrailrider. Just do it before April , the Refueling Outage at VC Summer starts then and I will be working 6 days or nights a week for 2 months. Or wait until June and see haymaking in action I hope.


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## paoutdoorsman

Nice job on the 336 Ranger518!


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## JD3430

Ranger518 said:


> Finished painting and custom decals on my John deere 336 baler.


Knock, knock, knock....I have my Meyer Spreader parked outside your door. 
Dark red, please.
Be back in a week to pick it up.


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## Ranger518

mlappin said:


> Wrong shade of green, but its still purty.
> Around here our landlords would want more money as they would think we could afford a new baler therefore must be flush with cash.


Yea the pic make the color look a little off it is OEM John Deere AG green from dealer which is the the shade painted on all John deere tractors from like 1990 on. So yea it is still the wrong color it was originally John Deere classic green but figured I would paint it the new color due to all the replacement parts are painted in Ag green now that is also why I painted the pick up green and figured while I was at it I might as well put decals on it that matched the newer balers.


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## JD3430

Love the jack with the WHEEL.

Man I need those on some of my implements!

However, whenever I go to buy one, I always think the wheel is too small or might break on a heavy attachment like a baler or a 15' batwing??

Or sink in soft ground


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## Ranger518

JD3430 said:


> Love the jack with the WHEEL.
> Man I need those on some of my implements!
> However, whenever I go to buy one, I always think the wheel is too small or might break on a heavy attachment like a baler or a 15' batwing??
> Or sink in soft ground


Yea they help out quite a bit when trying to move stuff around my shop without hooking tractor up to it. I just add a universal wheel to my factory jacks seams to be a little stronger that way but still not the best.


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## Bgriffin856

endrow said:


> Back when we had silos the 70 footers first silo unloader had a lot of big parts and I would go up the outside ladder and hoist the part up with a pulley and then shove the part threw the roof door and the lower the part down to the using the same rope and pulley.


Never had to do that hope I never have to. If its something big either make it work till to the bottom doors or pitch with a silage fork. Always do preventive maintence when they are at the bottom. We did take the blower off the silo-matic we had at the time in the 16ft lowered via rope down the chute about four doors so we could weld a bead on the ends of the paddles cause they were so worn it wouldn't blow the silage. Then hoisted it back up... I really dont miss days like that. Some of the best days were taking out old unloaders and replacing with much better ones


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## IH 1586

Bgriffin856 said:


> Never had to do that hope I never have to. If its something big either make it work till to the bottom doors or pitch with a silage fork. Always do preventive maintence when they are at the bottom. We did take the blower off the silo-matic we had at the time in the 16ft lowered via rope down the chute about four doors so we could weld a bead on the ends of the paddles cause they were so worn it wouldn't blow the silage. Then hoisted it back up... I really dont miss days like that. Some of the best days were taking out old unloaders and replacing with much better ones


Our small silo did not have a permanent unloader. After silo was full we would pull the individual pieces up the shoot and assemble and when empty disassemble. It was only 14 wide so pitching wasn't to bad.


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## mlappin

Ranger518 said:


> Yea the pic make the color look a little off it is OEM John Deere AG green from dealer which is the the shade painted on all John deere tractors from like 1990 on. So yea it is still the wrong color it was originally John Deere classic green but figured I would paint it the new color due to all the replacement parts are painted in Ag green now that is also why I painted the pick up green and figured while I was at it I might as well put decals on it that matched the newer balers.


LOL. I was referring to more it's not Oliver Meadow Green and Clover White 

It's still a pretty baler though.


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## PaMike

Heres what I have been working on...not too bad looking for a 3700 hr dairy farm machine...ready to go just gotta find a buyer..


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## glasswrongsize

PaMike said:


> Heres what I have been working on...not too bad looking for a 3700 hr dairy farm machine...ready to go just gotta find a buyer..


Makes me have dreams of sugar plums; that's second on my wish list. Gonna bust open the piggy bank in the spring and build another barn. If there is enough fat left in the ol' hog, skid steer is next.

Skip A Rope, Mark


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## somedevildawg

A few of the projects this winter......

This is the Perkins engine (1000 series phaser) out of my JCB 520 Tele......seems the water and oil water to intermingle.  Thought the problem was with the head, no such luck......it is a common problem on these engines. If you run with little to no glycol, the water will corrode by electrolysis where he two dissimilar metals meet....not s good pic, but as you can see, it had definately been run with just water, probably creek water  had to remove engine to do necessary repairs. Back in the machine now and performing excellent. Went ahead and replaced water pump while we were there....love this little machine

Those timing marks are courtesy of my daughters fingernail polish . She wasn't happy


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## PaMike

You still dont have that thing done????  Its not often I see a diesel engine with a torque convertor handing off the back of it...


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## somedevildawg

Now for the next project, now that the 520 is blowing smoke.....its next along with installing rotating beacons on all equipment, changing all fluids in all equipment, and everything I need to repair that I didn't do last haying season....


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## somedevildawg

PaMike said:


> You still dont have that thing done????  Its not often I see a diesel engine with a torque convertor handing off the back of it...


Lol, it's done....as soon as we turned the last bolt, I swear a buddy of mine was watching from down the road and called to "borrow" it.....just got it back after a week of unloading watermelon pallets


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## PaMike

I need you for a neighbor!!!!


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## somedevildawg

PaMike said:


> I need you for a neighbor!!!!


Only difference in him and you is, I woulda had your ass turning wrenches with me and borrowing things like "angled torque wrenches" ..... He doesn't know a wrench from a sand wedge...


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## PaMike

Just stopped in at the neighbors..he picked up a "flooded" 2014 case track skidsteer for cheap. Thing is mint looking...fuses look good. Dash lights up...No junk in the air cleaner. Some corrosion down low maybe 20" up on the machine. My guess is the engine will be fine...should be an interesting one to see come together...


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## somedevildawg

Absolutely, might be a good money maker, does he flip 'em?


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## paoutdoorsman

dawg, the 520 looks like a neat machine. What's your primary use for it, or is it a flip?


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## paoutdoorsman

@PaMike, did you buy the 218 non-running?


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## somedevildawg

paoutdoorsman said:


> dawg, the 520 looks like a neat machine. What's your primary use for it, or is it a flip?


That's the pic of the MT 927 manitou...it'll be for use at the barns for stacking and loading in/out of barn. The 520 is a JCB machine....same engine but the manitou is larger with the ability to reach 27' vs 19' for the 520. Here's a pic of the 520 when I got finished with it a few years ago, it too was a basket case...well, I can't find it.....


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## PaMike

somedevildawg said:


> Absolutely, might be a good money maker, does he flip 'em?


Sorta. He buys uses, then resells or keeps. Hes a bachelor so he has time and money...Right now he has 2 Case Super M backhoes...he just cant decide which one to keep. The flooded track skidsteer is gunna stay around for a bit. He has some land clearing to do.He can probably put 2k hours on it and still sell it and break even or better... He also messes with Kubota RTV's. Has one that was flooded.



paoutdoorsman said:


> @PaMike, did you buy the 218 non-running?


Yeah, hole punched in the block...Its a tier 4 machine. Dealer assured me it was under 3200, but the clock shows 3700 hrs. Gotta love it. I didn't do the engine work. A local shop did it for me. It was their first tire 4 machine, so it took a little extra work to figure everything out.. Those NH machines don't have the best reputation but I gotta say I lilke it. HUGE cab, quick responsive hydraulics, and the boom links are short, so even if they wear the boom wont slap around like the old machines....


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## broadriverhay

I build tie poles for horses. Here is a closeup of a weld joint.


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## paoutdoorsman

Awfully nice looking bead of weld there!


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## paoutdoorsman

somedevildawg said:


> That's the pic of the MT 927 manitou...it'll be for use at the barns for stacking and loading in/out of barn. The 520 is a JCB machine....same engine but the manitou is larger with the ability to reach 27' vs 19' for the 520. Here's a pic of the 520 when I got finished with it a few years ago, it too was a basket case...well, I can't find it.....


Oh yeah, I knew that. I looked up the JCB 520 before posting. It looks like a very maneuverable machine. If accumulating small squares works out for me, and I build flat storage, I'll want something with more reach than a skid loader, so those type of machines have my interest, and I wouldn't mind finding a fixer upper.

Is that the exhaust pipe I see running near the floorboard on the Manitou?


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## stack em up

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## somedevildawg

Lol, it is, but it's just laying there....have to do some fabricating to bolt it up to the new engine as it is turbocharged, original was not....

I thought I did purty good on the 520, paid the guy 13.5k for it, runner just needed some TLC.....very maneuverable, good weight, great visibility, wide range of motion on the curl cylinder makes it ideal for stacking and placing. Probably have about 20k invested in it thus far....after the lastest work. Very nice for what it does....


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## somedevildawg

stack em up said:


> Now there's an 1850 Oliver gas needing a valve grind and steering axle spindles and such in our shop.


It ain't any of the free-loaders tractors is it......hopefully not. I like those old Oliver's, putrid shade of green but ok I suppose  at least it is green. Gonna paint the new Tele Orange, was thinking of the old a/c orange, what say you?


----------



## stack em up

.


----------



## somedevildawg

Orange it is.....think they may have been red, I ain't never been a fan of red farm implements.....


----------



## stack em up

.


----------



## SVFHAY

somedevildawg said:


> A few of the projects this winter......
> 
> This is the Perkins engine (1000 series phaser) out of my JCB 520 Tele......Back in the machine now and performing excellent. Went ahead and replaced water pump while we were there....love this little machine
> 
> Those timing marks are courtesy of my daughters fingernail polish . She wasn't happy


My gehl tele is down now.... injection pump being rebuilt...really lost without it. Anyway it is a 3 cylinder turbo Perkins, 76 horse power. Yours looks like a 4 cylinder, does it have a turbo ? Horsepower?


----------



## PaMike

stack em up said:


> Now there's an 1850 Oliver gas needing a valve grind and steering axle spindles and such in our shop.


Maybe you need to pull that engine, sell it and drop a 5.9 cummins in its place. I hear that make pretty nice conversions..


----------



## broadriverhay

Next time I do some tig welding I will post some pictures.


----------



## somedevildawg

SVFHAY said:


> My gehl tele is down now.... injection pump being rebuilt...really lost without it. Anyway it is a 3 cylinder turbo Perkins, 76 horse power. Yours looks like a 4 cylinder, does it have a turbo ? Horsepower?


Mine is 4 cyl normally aspirated, I think it's rated about 75-80 hp, not sure.....the one I'm putting in the manitou is the same just turbocharged, think it's rated at 110hp


----------



## mlappin

PaMike said:


> Maybe you need to pull that engine, sell it and drop a 5.9 cummins in its place. I hear that make pretty nice conversions..


Mighty expensive repower, guys can get upwards of 10K or more into a Cummins conversion. I have a 1855 sitting in the shop now i need to tear into, keeps getting water in the oil, my guess is block is cracked between the lower sleeve supports, thats what did the last block in, and the one leaking now is my last spare block. If the block is fubar I'm gonna find a later series 310 Waukesha to drop in, those were out of 1955's mostly and came with oil coolers cast into the block which is what earlier ones and the 1855's were lacking. This time will do a complete balance job on the engine just like a race car engine and hopefully do away with the micro vibrations that cracked those blocks.

Have thought about a Cummins repower for it, but was Dads first BIG tractor. Can get over 110hp out of a Wauky 310 easy enough and have never ventilated a block on this farm even though they were infamous for that as well.


----------



## mlappin

broadriverhay said:


> Next time I do some tig welding I will post some pictures.


I wanna get a TIG machine someday&#8230;

Local retired guy that everybody took stuff that needed to be TIG welded can't anymore, woke up one morning with a detached retina, spent the next six weeks face down letting it heal after it was "fixed". Can't see shit is what he claims, depth perception is shot for fine work like TIG, although he claims he can still run a fair stick or MIG bead.

Real shame he had to give that up. He built the cage in the police car when we got our very own K9 unit, looked better than anything that was being sold at the time. Took him a few cracked aluminum seed meter housings off our White planter and a 12 pack of his preferred beer, when he was done they were prettier than what you'll see in a text book and didn't need any filing or matching where the plates ran.

I kinda really need to buy it from him then master it as when I asked about learning to TIG he said in rather a smart ass tone "even I had to take classes for it". I'm a fairly competent welder for self taught, I understand TIG is a rather more complicated than MIG, but I picked that up in short order as well. Took a bashed in muffler off one of my race bikes to shop class and had it fixed in a few hours first time using a MIG machine. Easy to pick up when you spend a fair amount of time welding on the farm with nothing but a tired old Lincoln buzz box for your only welder, learned to braze as well when the stuff was too light for stick. Also learned the fine art of oxygen acetylene welding with a coat hanger and 20 mule team borax for flux from the local jack of all trades, unfortunately that old alky passed away before teaching me the lost art of leading a car instead of using bondo.


----------



## PaMike

If you can gas weld with a coat hanger TIG welding will be no big deal....TIG aluminum can be a bear, and I dont mess with that, but TIG steel and stainless isnt really that big of a deal. It takes some time for the welds to be REAL nice looking, just like mig and stick, but if you get a machine and get the proper gas you will be making good welds in a few hours. I promise...


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## stack em up

.


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## PaMike

Heres whats next. Kubota mini hoe with a fuel leak...doesnt appear to leak when running. But leaks when sitting. Appears to leak more the fuller the tank is... I am thinking maybe something in the return line to tank...Real pain to work on these things...


----------



## paoutdoorsman

Does temperature affect the leak? Verify the tank vent is clear.


----------



## mlappin

PaMike said:


> Heres whats next. Kubota mini hoe with a fuel leak...doesnt appear to leak when running. But leaks when sitting. Appears to leak more the fuller the tank is... I am thinking maybe something in the return line to tank...Real pain to work on these things...


Yup, our Bobcat mini is a real PITA to work on anything to do with the engine or inside the cab.


----------



## PaMike

paoutdoorsman said:


> Does temperature affect the leak? Verify the tank vent is clear.


I should have taken a pic of the fuel cap. It almost has to be vented, but I sure don't see anywhere that it is...and there isn't any other vent anywhere..


----------



## deadmoose

PaMike said:


> Heres whats next. Kubota mini hoe with a fuel leak...doesnt appear to leak when running. But leaks when sitting. Appears to leak more the fuller the tank is... I am thinking maybe something in the return line to tank...Real pain to work on these things...


I will volunteer to thoroughly test it out after you get it fixed. All summer just to mame sure you didn't miss anything.


----------



## Ranger518

PaMike said:


> Heres whats next. Kubota mini hoe with a fuel leak...doesnt appear to leak when running. But leaks when sitting. Appears to leak more the fuller the tank is... I am thinking maybe something in the return line to tank...Real pain to work on these things...


I feel your pain my CAT 303CR excavator is a real pain to work on. I had to replace a starter on it and that was real interesting to say the least. Mine also has a fuel leak when I park it but it is by all my friends borrowing it to do some of there projects bringing it back empty on diesel LOL.


----------



## stack em up

.


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## PaMike

Come get it deadmoose.. Do like my neighbor did. Use it for 3 weeks, refuse to bring it back when I call him, then bring it back with a bent thumb cylinder. Then never pay for the rental bill or pay for the damage cylinder...

Is there any good way to tell if a cap is venting? Should there be vent holes you can see and make sure they are clear??? I know nothing about fuel cap venting...


----------



## Vol

PaMike said:


> Is there any good way to tell if a cap is venting? Should there be vent holes you can see and make sure they are clear??? I know nothing about fuel cap venting...


Does it "gasp" taking in air when the cap is removed? If not it is likely venting.

Regards, Mike


----------



## endrow

Had trouble with two Breakers at the shop checked it out decided to go with a new service panel it's turned into 2 day project


----------



## paoutdoorsman

Nice to have some extra time over the winter to get those kind of projects knocked out!


----------



## broadriverhay

Yall's pictures make my neck hurt. :lol:


----------



## mlappin

Changing tires on our yard lift, we've had it almost twenty years and never had a front tire off. Oddballs as well, 14.9x28.

The right side was stuck, I ran out of poop and couldn't hang on to the slide hammer anymore, dropped that tire and laid it on the cement, ended up using two splitting wedges, one of those tire breakers you use a ratchet handle on and the slide hammer to break the bead, flipped it over and had to do the same to the back side, remounted it then found out the inner tube was practically glued to the rim, used a tire iron from the back to break the tube loose, must of rotated that tire ten times to finally get the tube out, got the other tire on and aired up. Had three hours in one tire.

Started in on the left side, same story, drop it on the cement to break the bead, flipped it over and just by looking at the rim knew it either had or did have calcium in it at one time. Remounted to forklift and discovered it still had a little calcium in it, said f*ck it and called it a day. Father helped some the next day, got old tire off, a different one on, got ready to air it up and pulled the valve stem right out of the tube, stupid holes are on the backside of the rim as well to make life just that much more interesting.


----------



## broadriverhay

Put new sides on stand for the nitrogen tank I bought. Got it welded up and primed.


----------



## deadmoose

broadriverhay said:


> Put new sides on stand for the nitrogen tank I bought. Got it welded up and primed.


You do nice looking work down there. Nice looking shop too.


----------



## deadmoose

I finally quit putting off my atv tire repair. I am 100% confident my fix will not work. I couldn't break the bead. Brought it to town for that. Put a patch and was still leaking. Couldn't tell where coming from on the inside. Tried to break bead again. Gave up. Tried log splitter and running over with tractor and car. All the wrong ways... I decided next time it comes off it will be replaced. It needs it. So, it was leaking through sidewall crack that wasn't visible inside. Since I couldn't get it back off, I patched the outside. I am sure it won't work but figured i would try.


----------



## broadriverhay

I replaced my tires several years ago on a '98 Honda 300 . I had a friend take them to a tire shop and change them he said it was easy. I guess he had the right tire changer. I had fought them before and had the same issues you had. I will never fight one again. Right tool for the job makes life easy.


----------



## deadmoose

broadriverhay said:


> I replaced my tires several years ago on a '98 Honda 300 . I had a friend take them to a tire shop and change them he said it was easy. I guess he had the right tire changer. I had fought them before and had the same issues you had. I will never fight one again. Right tool for the job makes life easy.


Tire shop guy struggled to break the bead. And he had the right tool. I am pretty sure I would have wrecked the tire before I broke the bead.


----------



## broadriverhay

The first one I removed I cut the tire bead with a grinder. It had gotten personal . The war was on. The way that the rim is made to keep the tire on at low pressures really makes working on them difficult.


----------



## mlappin

broadriverhay said:


> The first one I removed I cut the tire bead with a grinder. It had gotten personal . The war was on. The way that the rim is made to keep the tire on at low pressures really makes working on them difficult.


Actually they are meant to keep the tire on even flat, I seen many a three and four wheeler back in the day finish a race with a shredded tire but it was still seated on the rim.

I replaced all four on the Polaris in December, our Corghi took em right off.


----------



## somedevildawg

deadmoose said:


> I finally quit putting off my atv tire repair. I am 100% confident my fix will not work. I couldn't break the bead. Brought it to town for that. Put a patch and was still leaking. Couldn't tell where coming from on the inside. Tried to break bead again. Gave up. Tried log splitter and running over with tractor and car. All the wrong ways... I decided next time it comes off it will be replaced. It needs it. So, it was leaking through sidewall crack that wasn't visible inside. Since I couldn't get it back off, I patched the outside. I am sure it won't work but figured i would try.


Ok, so here are my "words of wisdom" learnt from experience over the years....you can save yourself future headaches with them.....ain't charging you not one Penny.

The tire man works too cheap......

You can take that anyway you wish, but it's proven to be a fact over the years....and it ain't one of them "alternate facts" either


----------



## deadmoose

somedevildawg said:


> Ok, so here are my "words of wisdom" learnt from experience over the years....you can save yourself future headaches with them.....ain't charging you not one Penny.
> The tire man works too cheap......
> You can take that anyway you wish, but it's proven to be a fact over the years....and it ain't one of them "alternate facts" either


So cheap since all they did for me was take a tire off, they didn't even charge me. Problem is they were closed after I patched one spot and it was still leaking.

Methinks it is time for 4 new tires. They were old enough to drive last summer. I wait another year they can legally smoke and gamble...


----------



## mlappin

Working on Super 88 brakes, one side only works in reverse and sometimes the other side won't release.


----------



## paoutdoorsman

So just like the Energizer bunny, the Oliver just keeps going and going?

Had a pair Deere compacts in the shop tonight. Full service on both, loose tie rod end on one, and a wheel and tire swap. Turfs to the 4066M, and R4's to the 4320. The 4066M is a tier 4, and I ran it in the shop for a few minutes with no hint of diesel fumes.


----------



## Lewis Ranch

I should of took more pictures but here it is put back together minus the hood I'm gonna buff it out before I put it back on. 5325 JD I'll never own another one. This thing doesn't have an injection pump it has 5 individual pumps inside the head that power each injector individually, talk about a pita to work on. Serviced the sprayer yesterday as well with yearly oil change and fuel filters, now if the wind will die down I'll start spraying.


----------



## somedevildawg

That's crazy, a deere engine?


----------



## Lewis Ranch

somedevildawg said:


> That's crazy, a deere engine?


Yea the shops hate them and it's really just a guess working on them. Crazy that none of the Deere techs at the 4 different shops I visited could tell me how to work on it. Apparently it was in several Skidsteers as well, the info I gather from dealers is it's a throw away engine.


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## mlappin

Lewis Ranch said:


> I should of took more pictures but here it is put back together minus the hood I'm gonna buff it out before I put it back on. 5325 JD I'll never own another one. This thing doesn't have an injection pump it has 5 individual pumps inside the head that power each injector individually, talk about a pita to work on. Serviced the sprayer yesterday as well with yearly oil change and fuel filters, now if the wind will die down I'll start spraying.


The Duetz in our skid steer has the same thing, a pump about half way up the block, then each one of those is connected to an injector, stupid expensive if bought from Duetz, like maybe 3-5K to replace four pumps and four injectors.


----------



## mlappin

paoutdoorsman said:


> So just like the Energizer bunny, the Oliver just keeps going and going?
> 
> Had a pair Deere compacts in the shop tonight. Full service on both, loose tie rod end on one, and a wheel and tire swap. Turfs to the 4066M, and R4's to the 4320. The 4066M is a tier 4, and I ran it in the shop for a few minutes with no hint of diesel fumes.


Yah figure Super 88's were build from 54-58, so it's 50+ years old, a set of brake discs and ready for another 50.


----------



## stack em up

Brother bought an 1803 Ag Chem Terra Gator with a bad rear end. (supposedly) Got it in the shop yesterday and made a list of what needs to be done. Don't think I'm gonna be done by spring....


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## paoutdoorsman

Must be a long list stack!


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## PaMike

stack em up said:


> Brother bought an 1803 Ag Chem Terra Gator with a bad rear end. (supposedly) Got it in the shop yesterday and made a list of what needs to be done. Don't think I'm gonna be done by spring....


So it wasn't as good a deal as he thought??


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## stack em up

Uh, yeah. Luckily his little brother mechanic works cheap....


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## PaMike

stack em up said:


> Uh, yeah. Luckily his little brother mechanic works cheap....


I thought you weren't a for hire mechanic anymore


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## stack em up

PaMike said:


> I thought you weren't a for hire mechanic anymore


If you don't get paid, I consider that Not For Hire!


----------



## stack em up

Here's the "new" power plant for my 450 Farmall. 4 cylinder Perkins.


----------



## PaMike

What model perkins? The 4.236 is one cold blooded SOB.


----------



## stack em up

It's a 203 Perkins out of a MF 300 combine. Still cold blooded as a brontosaurus but will be fine for a tractor that will only be run in the spring/summer.


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## deadmoose

stack em up said:


> It's a 203 Perkins out of a MF 300 combine. Still cold blooded as a brontosaurus but will be fine for a tractor that will only be run in the spring/summer.


Did you say raking is on its future task list?


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## PaMike

So do you have the conversion all figured out or is it a design as you go? I thought you were gunna go the cummins route?


----------



## stack em up

deadmoose said:


> Did you say raking is on its future task list?


Probably won't have enough hydraulic poop in the pants to run a double basket rake.



PaMike said:


> So do you have the conversion all figured out or is it a design as you go? I thought you were gunna go the cummins route?


Cummins is too rich for my blood. This was much cheaper. I have a machinist buddy that is going to help me with the adapter plate and flywheel adaptation. The rest is just kinda up in the air how it's all going to work.


----------



## deadmoose

What are you planning to task it with?


----------



## Gearclash

MX170 is in the shop, LF wheel bearing failed. Trashed all the planetary gears plus the knuckle. Moral of the story, if any seal is leaking on an mfd hub it is time for new seals and bearings.









Both balers need some quality time in the shop. Seems we have some roller/bearing issues to sort out on both. 7090 needs the net wrap wrap system tweaked. Biggest problem is we need to find a better pick up tine. New Holland's current rubber tine is the only thing they offer that is not total junk for baling stalks, but they are so over priced I refuse to use them. NH current rubber tine is $15 for 60 of the 80 tines and $16 for the last 20. By comparison Vermeer's monster tine has way more material in it and is better designed for the most part but only costs $9 and some cents.

Rake needs work, started losing tines last fall. Might buy a different rake and sell the one I have now but that's just going to change what I have to work on . . .

856 has a lame cylinder, 1835B needs all 4 hydraulic cylinders resealed, the shop itself is a work in progress . . . never ends!


----------



## Bgriffin856

never ends

Ain't that the truth


----------



## Vol

You know it seems that baling stalks is not a very good proposition for equipment. I wonder if one would not be better off trading your baler and rake every other year? Is stalk baling worth the wear and tear? I don't know, I never have been involved with baling stalks. Is stalk baling harder on round balers than large square?

Regards, Mike


----------



## somedevildawg

Vol said:


> You know it seems that baling stalks is not a very good proposition for equipment. I wonder if one would not be better off trading your baler and rake every other year? Is stalk baling worth the wear and tear? I don't know, I never have been involved with baling stalks. Is stalk baling harder on round balers than large square?
> 
> Regards, Mike


I'm of the same opin about baling peanut vine......I think it would be harder as the baler is turning at higher speeds consistently, with the square, I would think dirt, trash buildup would be less of a problem. But in peanuts anyway, it's the pickup that really gets trashed.....


----------



## Gearclash

Vol said:


> You know it seems that baling stalks is not a very good proposition for equipment. I wonder if one would not be better off trading your baler and rake every other year? Is stalk baling worth the wear and tear? I don't know, I never have been involved with baling stalks. Is stalk baling harder on round balers than large square?
> 
> Regards, Mike


No disagreement, baling stalks is hard on equipment. You have to get that in your head going into the game. I do it because it is the only game there is for custom balers here, and I like baling. The biggest problem specific to cornstalks is the attrition rate of baler pick up and rake tines. Deere has the best all steel tine at the moment, and even they don't hold up as long as I would like. Vermeer has the best rubber mounted tine and it is better than Deere's tine for sure, but there is no way at all to fit that on a New Holland as the tine spacing is significantly different. I would not make any money trading balers and rakes on a shorter term basis. For me it makes more sense to buy a solid used baler or rake and run the snot out of it. The older baler has almost 20,000 bales on it. Aside from needing the pick up freshened up it is still running strong. Is it worth it? Yes, but I think baling stalks is a lower margins business than baling hay, but again, thats all there is to do in these parts. Since I bought my first round baler in '08, my baling has been pretty consistently about 10% hay and 90% cornstalks. Last year was closer to 95% stalks because we baled a lot more stalks. As far as round vs large square, my experience has been that stalks are harder on the large square balers. It's more of a pain too, as stalks will cause misties on a regular basis. There are more small moving parts, especially with the knotters, that wear faster when they get dirt from baling stalks in them.


----------



## paoutdoorsman

Sounds like you have your shop work cut out for you for the rest of the winter Gearclash


----------



## Gearclash

Vol, been thinking about what your comment about trading balers yearly. For my usage it would make more sense to trade every three years or about 7500 bales. There should be minimal repairs in that time. Off the top of my head it would cost around $3 per bale to trade. There would also be about $.18 per bale of additional interest coming from the higher up front purchase price of the baler. As it is, buying a low bales used baler and running it for 20,000+ bales gets me down to about $1 per bale of depreciation. Parts cost probably runs around $.50 per bale, and let's say my time is worth an equal amount. That's still a dollar per bale of savings, and over the life of the baler it could be $25,000 savings vs trading for new every few years. Any thoughts? YMMV!!


----------



## r82230

Gear,

I like all your numbers, the only part that I think of keeping on eye on is the value of YOUR labor/time. As I have gotten older, I find my time has become more valuable, hence I hire more done than I use to or trade quicker.

The only other thing may not be a factor in your equation would be the cost of the breakdown with regards to the quality of the crop (eg how much value lost with washed hay, being you are primarily baling corn stalks).

The labor time that I 'save', I use for more valuable things (not necessarily all monetary, might just be time spent with the grandkids). 

Larry


----------



## Vol

Gearclash said:


> Vol, been thinking about what your comment about trading balers yearly. For my usage it would make more sense to trade every three years or about 7500 bales. There should be minimal repairs in that time. Off the top of my head it would cost around $3 per bale to trade. There would also be about $.18 per bale of additional interest coming from the higher up front purchase price of the baler. As it is, buying a low bales used baler and running it for 20,000+ bales gets me down to about $1 per bale of depreciation. Parts cost probably runs around $.50 per bale, and let's say my time is worth an equal amount. That's still a dollar per bale of savings, and over the life of the baler it could be $25,000 savings vs trading for new every few years. Any thoughts? YMMV!!


I no longer like to work on equipment.....I mean if I break down in field, yes I will do what I have to do...but I just can't hardly stand it anymore. I do the simple like oil changes and greasing, but the rest I hire out when I can. I suppose what I am saying is that there would be a "value" to me of not having to wrench on equipment when buying new and trading periodically before heavy depreciation. But, it would have to pencil to be able to do that and I am not informed enough about stalk baling to make that kind of determination. I do know this, I have seen guys like you Gearclash that work their tails into the ground baling stalks in the fall. Mighty, mighty long days and I would have to be near trouble free equipment wise to be able to do that day after day.

Regards, Mike


----------



## broadriverhay

I had my trailer in the shop and welded a new Bulldog 2" coupler on it. The original had split on the side beside the socket for the ball. I thought of a weld repair but decided it was probably smarter to replace the cheaper style with the Bulldog. The original was not welded very good. The weld was mig and had very little penetration. Five minutes with a cutoff wheel and I had it cut off. I installed the new coupler by tig welding the root and capping it with the mig.


----------



## Uphayman

This came out of our shop.....The Mrs. wanted a smaller table for the kitchen. Using white cedar cut off the farm, run through our mill, dried in the greenhouse. Finished it in the basement as the shop isn't heated. She's happy ????, life is good !


----------



## somedevildawg

Very nice!


----------



## Vol

Uphayman said:


> This came out of our shop.....The Mrs. wanted a smaller table for the kitchen. Using white cedar cut off the farm, run through our mill, dried in the greenhouse. Finished it in the basement as the shop isn't heated. She's happy , life is good !


I like it UP.....is white cedar harder than red cedar? I cannot recall of ever handling white cedar in the past, but I like it. Do insects stay away from white cedar like they do for red?

Regards, Mike


----------



## Uphayman

Pretty soft. Slow to rot. Used them for fence posts decades ago. Used a heavy epoxy glaze coating for protection. The white cedar in our area isn't given a chance to regrow as the whitetail decimate any new growth. The wolf population will actually help the white cedar species.


----------



## Vol

Uphayman said:


> Pretty soft. Slow to rot. Used them for fence posts decades ago. Used a heavy epoxy glaze coating for protection. The white cedar in our area isn't given a chance to regrow as the whitetail decimate any new growth. The wolf population will actually help the white cedar species.


Yep, over-populated whitetail can destroy a environment and result in species weakening....it becomes no longer about the fittest doing the breeding.

Regards, Mike


----------



## PaMike

Speaking of wood...I got TONS of dead Ash trees due to the borer bug....pretty sad...all dead and having to come down. I honestly couldnt identify an ash tree til a tree service guy pointed them out to me...went scouting the woods this weekend...everywhere I turn a dead ash...oh well, such is life..


----------



## Vol

PaMike said:


> Speaking of wood...I got TONS of dead Ash trees due to the borer bug....pretty sad...all dead and having to come down. I honestly couldnt identify an ash tree til a tree service guy pointed them out to me...went scouting the woods this weekend...everywhere I turn a dead ash...oh well, such is life..


Same here....I hate to lose them.

Regards, Mike


----------



## IH 1586

Here they are recommending cutting out all your ash or risk losing it.


----------



## Vol

IH 1586 said:


> Here they are recommending cutting out all your ash or risk losing it.


So do you have to burn it?

Regards, Mike


----------



## PaMike

I am just bringing mine down because it may fall on the fence. Also, might as well convert it to firewood before it gets too dryrotten...


----------



## IH 1586

Vol said:


> So do you have to burn it?
> 
> Regards, Mike


No, it's going for lumber. From what I have gathered forest consultant is recommending to clear it out before we get infested and it's dead.


----------



## PaMike

yeah, that makes sense..once its dead it gets kinda weird. Still is fairly heavy but has no strength..kinda like dry rot


----------



## Bgriffin856

Latest project....about a year ago the starter on the 856 wouldn't stay engaged when cranking. So took the one off the parked 1066 and put on it worked like a champ. Till about October it kept getting weaker and weaker till it wouldn't turn over so pushed it in the shed in December. Was warm enough last week we took the 1066 starter off took the drive off and put in on the motor of the 856 starter and swapped the junk drive on to the junk motor and put it up for when we get the 1066 fixed we'll have a core. Put it in and started right up and works as it should. Starters for these models are not cheap. Kinda ridiculous of you price one from the dealer.....

856 starter tore apart. Don't mind the work bench 



1066 starter drive put on and ready to be put on the tractor



All installed. The 1066 starter was an inch or two longer and made it 100x's harder to remove but this one basically fell into place



A first and a good learning experience


----------



## PaMike

Dont you guys have any good starter shops out that way? Around here they could probably get you fixed up for $100 or less.


----------



## broadriverhay

The last one I had repaired for my JD3010 was $150 and the guy said he did not do a whole lot to it. I have heard on here of some being replaced with ones with a reduction gear on them I think.


----------



## Lewis Ranch

5325 is now back up and running finally. Time to roll the square baler and bandit in for winter work, with temps at 80 today it doesn't feel like winter.


----------



## Farmerbrown2

I have been switching to gear reduction starters in my opinion they are the way to go . Just get them with cast iron drive head not aluminum.


----------



## broadriverhay

Where are you getting the gear reduction starters and how much


----------



## IH 1586

Bgriffin856 said:


> Latest project....about a year ago the starter on the 856 wouldn't stay engaged when cranking. So took the one off the parked 1066 and put on it worked like a champ. Till about October it kept getting weaker and weaker till it wouldn't turn over so pushed it in the shed in December. Was warm enough last week we took the 1066 starter off took the drive off and put in on the motor of the 856 starter and swapped the junk drive on to the junk motor and put it up for when we get the 1066 fixed we'll have a core. Put it in and started right up and works as it should. Starters for these models are not cheap. Kinda ridiculous of you price one from the dealer.....
> 
> 856 starter tore apart. Don't mind the work bench
> 
> 
> 
> 1066 starter drive put on and ready to be put on the tractor
> 
> 
> 
> All installed. The 1066 starter was an inch or two longer and made it 100x's harder to remove but this one basically fell into place
> 
> 
> 
> A first and a good learning experience





PaMike said:


> Dont you guys have any good starter shops out that way? Around here they could probably get you fixed up for $100 or less.


We have one. Have had the starters and alt. all rebuilt there for the last 5 years and have yet to spend over $100 and usually done the same day. Had one starter with defected part and replaced no questions asked. However, they are under new ownership now and have had only one starter since and no issues on that one. I had PM bgriffin the number and address 2 years ago if he wanted it.

Now when I have bad batteries I take alt. in to have tested. Twice replaced batteries only to find out the alt. was bad. When batteries are over 10 years old don't think about it. When their dead a year after you put them in might be something else.


----------



## Farmerbrown2

I've been getting them from Abilein Machine. I unfortunately have been getting a lot of parts off the internet. I like to do business local but when parts and supplies are 3 times the price of internet it's hard to buy local. JD wants almost $400 for a JD 4020 water pump minus fan hub when I can get complete pump off the net for $95 with fan hub . Other week I went to welding supply they wanted $150 for a box of 50 cut off wheels I can buy same brand wheels for less then a dollar a piece on the net . I know they have overhead but so do I plus a wife and four kids .


----------



## Bgriffin856

IH 1586 said:


> We have one. Have had the starters and alt. all rebuilt there for the last 5 years and have yet to spend over $100 and usually done the same day. Had one starter with defected part and replaced no questions asked. However, they are under new ownership now and have had only one starter since and no issues on that one. I had PM bgriffin the number and address 2 years ago if he wanted it.


We checked them out, but knew what was wrong with it, had the time so decided to do it ourselves. Besides I like tinkering and fixing stuff I know we can. Wasn't much to it really, had it been something more complicated we would've taken it there


----------



## Farmineer95

The JD H made smoke today. Doesn't run long as there is no gas tank on it.
Was a long time since it ran and did a lot of $$ to get it this far. Doing it for a friend and its a sentimental family one.
Big smile, sounds nice too.☺


----------



## mlappin

Vol said:


> Yep, over-populated whitetail can destroy a environment and result in species weakening....it becomes no longer about the fittest doing the breeding.
> 
> Regards, Mike


I tried to explain that to people years ago when the deer population was out of control here, none listened but they did like to complain about no monster bucks anymore. Now we have some real nice bucks and a LOT less deer since they started the park hunts, first one they took out over 700 deer on six square miles.


----------



## mlappin

PaMike said:


> Speaking of wood...I got TONS of dead Ash trees due to the borer bug....pretty sad...all dead and having to come down. I honestly couldnt identify an ash tree til a tree service guy pointed them out to me...went scouting the woods this weekend...everywhere I turn a dead ash...oh well, such is life..





IH 1586 said:


> Here they are recommending cutting out all your ash or risk losing it.





PaMike said:


> yeah, that makes sense..once its dead it gets kinda weird. Still is fairly heavy but has no strength..kinda like dry rot


It still makes good firewood though, I've run almost 70 ash trees thru the processor this winter and still haven't got em all out of just the 4 acre woods across the road, the east end will barely be able to be called a woods. They are getting bad enough here I won't go in the woods on windy days, the tops are starting to snap out of em. I probably have 2-3 years worth of firewood at the moment and still have 15 left to run thru the processor that are lined up and waiting. Have another 20 down in the other woods to drag out under the power lines so I can cut em this summer. Haven't even started on the big woods yet.

A lot of folks did that as well, soon as they heard about the threat of the chinese ash borer they sold all the ash the lumber companies would take for whatever they'd give em for it.


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## mlappin

For Olivers Maibach Tractor in Ohio can set you up with a gear reduction starter. Changed the Delco-Remy out on my 1600 for a gear reduction and it's never spun over that fast before, fires up like a new engine and that was with a marginal battery, installed a new Deka 1000CCA battery and it cranks over like a gas engine with no spark plugs in it, and I don't have much more in a new gear reduction than it was costing me to have the Delco Remy's rebuilt.

I also seen Maibach offers the gear reduction for 3208 Cats, personally I think thats rather pointless as those start easy anyways, if it doesn't it's because its too cold for any sane person to be outside anyways. However, I know somebody else on this site mentioned having to pull a motor to change a starter in a 2255 Oliver, the gear reduction is small enough that won't be an issue again.


----------



## mlappin

The shop as of noon today doesn't have anything in it, finally. Did a front brake job on the plow truck last week, got in the drive just fine, stopped to back in to where it normally sets and the pedal goes clear to the floor. Pads were so old on the front they literally fell off the backer plates and the piston in the caliper came out, course the rotor was getting a wee bit thin as well. Had to heat all four bolts in the bearing hub to get em out, installed new rotor, got the piston back in the caliper, wire wheeled the bore the bearing assembly fits in, wire wheeled the bearing hub, slid all the way in by hand. Started all four bolts by hand, ran em all in with the impact, last one freezes up with an eighth inch to go, also would not come out, completely stripped the head off. Removed other three and cut the head off the fourth with the plasma cutter and a gouging tip. That one bolt decided to gall the threads with only an eighth inch to go, took the disc cutter and cut slots in the other three decent bolts and used them like thread chasers as these were a stupid oddball metric bolt, equivalent of a 1/2" bolt roughly with a 9/16 head and grade *, wasn't about to waste money on a metric tap I'd probably never use again and the bolts were only sold in sets of four anyways. Absolutely nobody stocks the bolts for the hub, had to order em. Reassembled the next day, popped the other front tire off and replaced pads on that side, the friction material on those fell off as well, but the rotor was in more than good enough shape to last me until I sh*tcan the entire truck. Also replaced a rear spring shackle that had daylight showing in places it shouldn't. Three quarter inch impact made short work of stuck bolts in that.

After getting the Chevy out of the way, pulled the Polaris in and replaced a front drive shaft, easy as pie once I figured out how to get the differential end started. They have a wire ring in the shaft that fits in a groove in the differential once its seated all the way, thats all that holds it in more or less. Used a hose clamp on it much like a ring compressor, got it started then just unscrewed the hose clamp all the way.

Got the ranger out of the way and started replacing brake lines on my Cummins Saturday and finished up today before my American Legion meeting. Had a line seeping at the frame block that comes from the ABS unit. Got the old one out a week ago, looked at about roughly the 27 different bends in it and said nope, ain't f*ckin with it, have three of those lines coming down and each one has a unique end and thread pitch on each end so they can't be hooked up wrong, bought an entire complete stainless steel set from Dorman on Amazon. Have all the ones on front changed including the master cylinder to the proportioning block and from there to the ABS unit, the one from the block to the rear I changed a few years ago, it can wait till i have the bed off for some reason or another.


----------



## Lewis Ranch

My latest project was an auction buy this weekend, 72 international loadstar 1800 with 33k miles barn stored since day one. Drove it home but gonna have to replace the carb.


----------



## paoutdoorsman

I started reconditioning a 2012 Deere RSX850i Gator. It came out of Texas. I took it for a quick ride the other day and the wheels and tires seemed extremely out of balance, which I thought was odd. The steering was very heavy and weird feeling.

I found the front left tire and the right rear tire were over 3/4 full of water. Apparently the P/O was adding ballast for mud bogging or hill climbing. It was about 20 degrees the day I rode it, and that TX water must have been at least partially ice! Broke the beads and drained them out tonight, but not before putting them on a scale. The rear was 85 lbs heavier with the water and the front one was 50 lbs heavier with the water.


----------



## somedevildawg

Them Texans will do some crazy stuff sometimes.....maybe he was in North Texas


----------



## Orchard6

I've been getting the round baler field ready over the last couple weeks. Haven't had much shop time this winter so projects that shouldn't take long are becoming long drawn out ordeals.


I had to replace a few links on the main apron chain that we're getting pretty worn. I also welded a few pin holes in the hydraulic lines that run to the lift cylinders. I also had to free up the shafts for the auto-wrap as the left knife wasn't cutting the twine consistently.
Now I've got to go thru the pick up and replace a few teeth and a guard and hopefully it should be good to go!


----------



## r82230

Orchard6 said:


> I had to replace a few links on the main apron chain that we're getting pretty worn. I also welded a few pin holes in the hydraulic lines that run to the lift cylinders. I also had to free up the shafts for the auto-wrap as the left knife wasn't cutting the twine consistently.


Orchard,

Brings back some memories, got to where I could fix a broken chain in about 1/2 hour or less. :angry: I used the nylon straps like you have, except ratcheting type and always had a few spare parts handy. You have earned my respect today.

Larry


----------



## Orchard6

r82230 said:


> Orchard,
> 
> Brings back some memories, got to where I could fix a broken chain in about 1/2 hour or less. :angry: I used the nylon straps like you have, except ratcheting type and always had a few spare parts handy. You have earned my respect today.
> 
> Larry


Thank you! I'm a glutton for punishment I guess. I actually enjoy working on it! Just not when hay is down!


----------



## IH 1586

4040 is in shop to solve some hyd. oil leakage issues. Replacing loadshaft and related parts. Pulling steering wheel and replacing hopefully just a oil seal. Pulled 540 shaft out and the race on the end of it was all chewed up. Replacing race and the o-ring. New fan belt on just have to order cushion for hyd. pump connection.

2355 will be joining it on Sat. getting split for clutch work and lots of other trivial things while its down.

If all goes well it will clear up a lot of nagging issues that have shown up over the last couple of years that I have stupidly put off.


----------



## IH 1586

And I ran the clutch to long, kept putting it off as it is my only loader option and now have to look into machining and/or replacing flywheel and pressure plate. Have some nice grooves in it.


----------



## Uphayman

Our 4960 JD was giving us cooling issues, so after numerous attempts to clean the radiator with the pressure washer, and not solving the problem......today we tore into it. Got the radiator out, and pressure washed it at a lo psi, got that baby looking good. The good news was, it was about 50 % packed with crud. Which I'm expecting to resolve the cooling problem. If it wouldn't have been dirty, I was fearing it being internally plugged up. Will find out in 3-4 weeks when we hit the fields.


----------



## Farmerbrown2

If you are into that far I would check the thermostats we had a tractor that one thermostat would not open gave us the fits for a while till we figured it out.


----------



## PaMike

I had a Case Maxxum that was giving me cooling issues. Little seed heads were plugging the radiator. Hit it with low pressure and it was amazing how much stuff came out from between the fins. It looked clean but the seedheads were way down in...


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## Uphayman

Thermostats had already been pulled.


----------



## Gearclash

At some point there is no substitute for yanking the radiator and giving it a righteous cleaning.

My current project is replacing the park brake on my TM120. It was really weak and I'd like to sell it soon . . . poor advertising when you have to disclose that the park brake hardly works. Good thing is it is quite easy to replace, for sure compared to the CIH 51/52/MX series. :mellow:


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## IH 1586

The 4040 always ran warm but not hot thought it was the nature of the tractor as its always been that way however I knew the oil cooler was not in the best of shape, many years of grandpa and dad using pressure washer to clean. Pulled oil cooler out this past summer and painstakingly straightened every bent fin on both sides. When working it still runs in the same area of the gauge but as soon as you stop you can watch that needle drop. Did not know it could run that cool.


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## Vol

Gearclash said:


> At some point there is no substitute for yanking the radiator and giving it a righteous cleaning.


That is very true.

These are the handiest attachments I have found that gives me the ability to give a radiator a pretty good cleaning without pulling the rad. One hooks to your water hose and the other to your air hose. Lots of places carry them now including eBay. You only need about a 1/2" clearance gap to get in and clean the fins completely.

Regards, Mike


----------



## Gearclash

In my opinion about one of the worst things to do cleaning a radiator is to do a half job cleaning it with water. If the radiator is not clean after using water, what's left of dust and dirt in the fins will dry hard and will not come out until you do a much better job with water again.


----------



## Uphayman

The problem on the 4960 was the hydraulic cooler is right in front of the radiator. Zero clearance to get a blast of either air or water to it. The hyd. cooler was also plugged badly, which we addressed with air. That unit you can at least slide sideways without removing lines. Pressure washing from the cab side doesn't get much accomplished regarding radiator.


----------



## Vol

Gearclash said:


> In my opinion about one of the worst things to do cleaning a radiator is to do a half job cleaning it with water. If the radiator is not clean after using water, what's left of dust and dirt in the fins will dry hard and will not come out until you do a much better job with water again.


Very true again.....Coil King in a bean sprayer works very well after using a air wand to blow out a radiator. Let the Coil King sit and then wash out with the water wand and it will shine like newly minted coins.


----------



## Lewis Ranch

Cleaned the carb and got the new farm truck running, Still need a new carb and the fuel pumps weak. Got all the lights working and horn so it should pass inspection next week where I can title and register it.


----------



## Vol

Lewis Ranch said:


> Cleaned the carb and got the new farm truck running, Still need a new carb and the fuel pumps weak. Got all the lights working and horn so it should pass inspection next week where I can title and register it.


Get her compounded and waxed and then take the little woman on a moonlight cruise!  Does the horn play yankee doodle?

Regards, Mike


----------



## Lewis Ranch

Vol said:


> Get her compounded and waxed and then take the little woman on a moonlight cruise!  Does the horn play yankee doodle?
> 
> Regards, Mike


It's gonna get repainted at some point, hopefully this fall if we have a good hay season and it will have a custom flatbed built at the same time. Nothing fancy just an old school air horn. I always wanted a classic truck to drive around although I wasn't planning on one like this but it came up in a local auction and I decided I had to have it!


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## somedevildawg

The rear fenders are quite sporty....it'll look good and work good with a custom flatbed like the Volvo has..


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## somedevildawg

I'm bettin that the Coil King stuff is the same thing my A/C company cleans our home unit with every year. I haven't seen it on the shelf here that I know of....


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## Ranger518

Yep a/c condenser coil cleaner works great getting radiators clean. I get the foaming kind really pulls stuff out but you need to be careful as it can and will damage paint as most has acid in it.


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## Lewis Ranch

Now it's time to rebuild the chute attachments on the bandit after putting it off all winter, it broke out in the last field of the season and I chained it up to finish. Hay baling time is just around the corner.


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## somedevildawg

Been puttin that one off huh, it looks as if it had been previously "engineered" on.....chained her up to finish the field I suppose. We do what we have to do....


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## Lewis Ranch

They have both been previously engineered on. I'm cutting both sides off and starting from scratch. Yes been putting it off with to many other projects but I'll be fertilizing my Bermuda this week before the rain so I figure I better get in gear, growth already 3"- 6" which is nearly unbelieveable this early.


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## Gearclash

Uhggg. The TM120 parking brake replacement project is turning nasty. Found out that one of the brake rotors is warped and binding on the pinion shaft.


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## mlappin

Ranger518 said:


> Yep a/c condenser coil cleaner works great getting radiators clean. I get the foaming kind really pulls stuff out but you need to be careful as it can and will damage paint as most has acid in it.


Stuff I use is alkaline instead of acidic, however still leaves streaks on paint if your not careful.


----------



## slowzuki

44 deer on our neighbours 1/3 acre property Saturday morning. They don't feed them. They have decimated the lower growth in the forests here.



mlappin said:


> I tried to explain that to people years ago when the deer population was out of control here, none listened but they did like to complain about no monster bucks anymore. Now we have some real nice bucks and a LOT less deer since they started the park hunts, first one they took out over 700 deer on six square miles.


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## Vol

slowzuki said:


> 44 deer on our neighbours 1/3 acre property Saturday morning. They don't feed them. They have decimated the lower growth in the forests here.


If there is a browse line the herd needs to be drastically reduced....probably as much as 50% of the female population should be harvested....and plenty of the males. I am very surprised that there has not been a outbreak of Blue Tongue Virus....spread by gnats or biting midges. Over populated herds seem to be a frequent target of this virus.

Regards, Mike


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## somedevildawg

I thought we had a monopoly on gnats.....


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## Orchard6

Started getting sprayers ready, we'll be spraying in a week or two! No major work to do to them, just have to un-winterize them.


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## IH 1586

Waited 2 weeks to receive the ring gear only to find out they gave me the wrong clutch kit. Should have it today.


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## PaMike

Finally got this one finished up and sent down the road. The two speed really makes her move..


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## paoutdoorsman

IH 1586 said:


> Waited 2 weeks to receive the ring gear only to find out they gave me the wrong clutch kit. Should have it today.


Parts delays stink don't they... What did you find with the 4040? Did you get by with just an oil seal?


----------



## broadriverhay

Nothing in my shop , getting ready for Refueling Outage at the nuclear plant. Been dong some much needed cleaning.


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## mlappin

Nothings moved much in the shop since about ten days ago when I busted my big toe in multiple places, long story short, it hurts.


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## PaMike

broadriverhay said:


> Nothing in my shop , getting ready for Refueling Outage at the nuclear plant. Been dong some much needed cleaning.


That's cleaner than my house...


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## broadriverhay

It is cleaner than my house now. It was a mess . I moved everything off the floor , cleaned , mopped and repainted. I do this about every 5 years.


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## somedevildawg

You do that epoxy floor covering yourself? Me likes....


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## paoutdoorsman

Floor looks great! Do you strip before repaint every 5 years? If so, what do you use?


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## broadriverhay

No I don't strip it. It is just an oil base paint. Epoxy is to expensive to be beating up and cutting , welding, grinding and things like that. I would like epoxy but don't think I could mess it up like I do this paint.


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## broadriverhay

A few others views


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## IH 1586

paoutdoorsman said:


> Parts delays stink don't they... What did you find with the 4040? Did you get by with just an oil seal?


Have not worked on the 4040 yet. Clutch in and yesterday it moved under its own power again. Sons had fun helping and enjoyed rolling the tractor back together. Was impressed that JD payed for the overnight shipping on the clutch. Price was well over $100 for that. I did not mind having to pay it if I would have provided the wrong part number but it was on their end this time.


----------



## Vol

IH 1586 said:


> Was impressed that JD payed for the overnight shipping on the clutch. Price was well over $100 for that. I did not mind having to pay it if I would have provided the wrong part number but it was on their end this time.


Does this mean that John Deere is not satanical? 

Regards, Mike


----------



## RuttedField

I can snap a picture sometime, but right now my Little John Deere 350 Bulldozer is in the shop with a bad radiator. It has been leaking a little for some time; maybe a cup if you ran it all day. I can put up with that, but then when it got up to 1-1/2 gallons a day, and it cost more in antifreeze then it did in diesel fuel; it was time to fix it.

It was not as bad as I thought. It took 2 hours from start to finish to remove the radiator.

While I am there I am putting in a new fan belt and adding lower radiator heater. Normally bulldozers have either-starting aid because they are not around electricity, but for me, a block heater just makes sense. I am right there anyway...time to do it. Space on a dozer is tight to work in.


----------



## mlappin

broadriverhay said:


> Nothing in my shop , getting ready for Refueling Outage at the nuclear plant. Been dong some much needed cleaning.


Nice, I could never keep our shop that clean unless I hired a person of dubious citizenship to follow my father around and clean up after him.


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## somedevildawg

mlappin said:


> Nice, I could never keep our shop that clean unless I hired a person of dubious citizenship to follow my father around and clean up after him.


I have one of those guys following me around only he picks up my tools and hides them while I'm working......gotta git one that's trained better


----------



## Wethay

somedevildawg said:


> I have one of those guys following me around only he picks up my tools and hides them while I'm working......gotta git one that's trained better


My kids help me pick up all the time. Reach out from under something for the wrench laying on the floor and my hand doesn't find it, reach, stretch, bump it with the finger tips, wiggle over and got it!, well got the rock left as a trade. Sockets make stacking blocks, screw drivers are great digging tools and hammers are great for pounding on things, most usually things not designed with being pounded on in there design criteria.


----------



## Vol

Wethay said:


> My kids help me pick up all the time. Reach out from under something for the wrench laying on the floor and my hand doesn't find it, reach, stretch, bump it with the finger tips, wiggle over and got it!, well got the rock left as a trade. Sockets make stacking blocks, screw drivers are great digging tools and hammers are great for pounding on things, most usually things not designed with being pounded on in there design criteria.


Better enjoy it while they are at that stage......you will wake up one morning and they will be driving cars and buying clothes like theres no tomorrow.

Regards, Mike


----------



## somedevildawg

Vol said:


> Better enjoy it while they are at that stage......you will wake up one morning and they will be driving cars and buying clothes like theres no tomorrow.
> 
> Regards, Mike


You ain't just blowin smoke....seems like yesterday I was lookin for my shop keys, after replacing all 12 of them (including car keys) I found them in the next bowl of Cheerios I poured a few weeks later....wouldn't trade it for the world


----------



## Wethay

Vol said:


> Better enjoy it while they are at that stage......you will wake up one morning and they will be driving cars and buying clothes like theres no tomorrow.
> 
> Regards, Mike


I sure am trying. I'm a full time single parent and a part time farmer so most always one or both kids are with me. My son has been picked up from kindergarten with the tractor a few times when I'm doing a job close to town.


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## Wethay

I have suspicions that I may have lost a screwdriver or two, and maybe a socket thanks to the kids but I guess that is to be expected. The complete carb for the lawn tractor wasn't expected however.


----------



## IH 1586

paoutdoorsman said:


> Parts delays stink don't they... What did you find with the 4040? Did you get by with just an oil seal?


We drastically reduced the oil leak on the steering shaft however instead of running down the column it now fills cap but the platform is dry. The other leaks load shaft and pto seemed to be resolved.


----------



## paoutdoorsman

IH 1586 said:


> We drastically reduced the oil leak on the steering shaft however instead of running down the column it now fills cap but the platform is dry. The other leaks load shaft and pto seemed to be resolved.


I think I have a similar task ahead of me. Haven't pulled it apart to look, but the 4040 I'm using is making a little oil on the column panel and platform. Pretty straight forward repair?


----------



## DSLinc1017

I posted this early on in this thread. After a long winter and a lot of tinkering she has been out on the road. So no longer in the shop!


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## somedevildawg

Nice....good time to take it out on the back roads!


----------



## paoutdoorsman

That's a neat bike DSL. Time to take it out and enjoy it now.


----------



## Vol

DSLinc1017 said:


> I posted this early on in this thread. After a long winter and a lot of tinkering she has been out on the road. So no longer in the shop!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> IMG_0232.JPG


What year is it?

Regards, Mike


----------



## DSLinc1017

Vol said:


> What year is it?
> 
> Regards, Mike


Its a 1986 Moto Guzzi Lemans, other wise known as a LM4. This one has a few modifications, particularly the front end. The original LM4 had a square head light and larger fairing. This fairing is off a LM1 with a BMW /6 head light.


----------



## IH 1586

paoutdoorsman said:


> I think I have a similar task ahead of me. Haven't pulled it apart to look, but the 4040 I'm using is making a little oil on the column panel and platform. Pretty straight forward repair?


Sort of. Make sure you use the correct pullers for the steering wheel. I think he called them "strong backs"??? He forgot his so went traditional, the wheel survived but has some new cracks in it. We just went for the first oil seal and bushing listed. We did not replace the bushing as there was the same amount of play between the new and old one. The old seal he pulled out looked better than the new one he installed but he thinks the old one may have been installed upside down. The amount of oil leaking is still diminishing as I run it. The telescoping had not worked for years so he want me to keep messing with it and see what happens.

I assume you have looked at the parts list. I replaced all hardware from top to the oil seal. clips, washers. If you have the time I would remove the whole assembly from the dash take it all the way down clean up and rebuild. We will be doing that if still leaking this winter. Will keep you updated if it does stop leaking.


----------



## Lostin55

Bought a 1049S to fix up.
So far we have found a bad motor, tranny, clutch, springs, shackle bolts, radiator, and hub on the rear axle. We know that it will need motor mounts before we go back together with it.
We have found a fresh 400, fresh NP 435, 12" clutch and associated parts. We have purchased the metal for new side racks, as the old ones were guard rail bolted on to cutting edge from a road grader. Come to think of it, there is more cutting edge welded on this thing than I have ever seen in one place. Got the new front rubber bought and mounted on the wheels. New first table chain, slave cylinder, and some misc just showed up in the mail.
The positives, and there are several, Hydros work well. Frame is straight, a lot of typically missing stuff is there and functional. Back tires are good. Rear end seems fine, the cab is nice. 
All in all, we should have it ready by first cutting.


----------



## somedevildawg

His best friend musta worked for the DOT....

So let me axe ya this.....the new hire, ifn there is a new hire and someone takes you up on your offer, expertise in turning wrenches, welding, blasting, painting and electrical aptitude would be a definite plus??

Nice project, always wanted to do one.....not yourun', mine


----------



## Lostin55

somedevildawg said:


> His best friend musta worked for the DOT....
> So let me axe ya this.....the new hire, ifn there is a new hire and someone takes you up on your offer, expertise in turning wrenches, welding, blasting, painting and electrical aptitude would be a definite plus??
> Nice project, always wanted to do one.....not yourun', mine


As The late Paul Harvey used to say, " and now you know..... The rest of the story."


----------



## RuttedField

I am custom building an upside down woodsplitter for my log trailer. I started it awhile ago, but have just begun to get back into it. I had made all the parts for it, but today I assembled them, tacked them together and then welded the majority of it up.

With mud season here, some snow yesterday and heavy rain, it is all I can do to cut wood. The skidder has been slogging through the mud, but barely, up to the top of the rims so its a mess for sure. So I figured welding up an upside down woodsplitter would be a good time investment.

I took this photo to kind of show what it will look like when it is done. The grapple will not be on it obviously, but you can see how after the wood is cut into rounds the splitter can be placed over the round, pinched (but not split) then after it is hovered over the dump trailer, pile or truck, then it can be split so that I can just run levers instead of picking up wood using my back. (YOu can search Youtube for upside down woodsplitters to see them in action)

I have a better upside down woodsplitter designed on paper, but I got all the parts to make this one first, so I was thinking about just seeing if I like it. If I do, I'll get all crazy and fab up something purpose built. The whole concept is 100% laziness, but...


----------



## Lewis Ranch

Bandits out of the shop finally, had some 1.5x3" solid bar milled to fit within the old tubing drove it in and welded, I don't think I'll break the hole out again. Tomorrow I'll tackle the stroke counter on the baler. Anyone else wait till spring to get everything done when you've had all winter?


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## PaMike

Just stuck the fresh rebuilt cutterbar back up into the 408 discbine. Finish it up tomorrow, take it to the field Thursday to mow rye, then put the for sale sign on it...

It no one has ever put a discbine cutter bar up into the mower by themselves,with two floor jacks, on a wood floor, its an event to say the least...


----------



## RuttedField

I just got to get some hydraulic hoses and paint my upside down woodsplitter, but it is put together at least.

I basically built a carrier that goes on my 3 point hitch. This holds the hydraulic tank, trailer hitch and seat. Knowing I needed more flow and pressure then what the trailers powerpack could provide, I have a Prince PTO pump to move the splitter ram. The control is located on the arm rest of the seat.

The seat allows comfort while splitting because it might be an all day event, and when splitting firewood, adjustability, back rest tilt, head rest adjustment, and even lumbar support is obviously required! This came off a Ford Focus. I even put a cup holder on this thing so that I will always be properly hydrated because sitting down all day running levers is so exhausting! (insert sarcastic chuckle here).

These photos show how everything works and how the seat comes into play. 100% L.A.Z.Y...but I grew up doing firewood and still hate it. At least this way I do not have to lift anymore.


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## somedevildawg

Lewis Ranch said:


> Bandits out of the shop finally, had some 1.5x3" solid bar milled to fit within the old tubing drove it in and welded, I don't think I'll break the hole out again. Tomorrow I'll tackle the stroke counter on the baler. Anyone else wait till spring to get everything done when you've had all winter?


Lol....every year it seems


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## Lostin55

This would be the explanation for why the old tranny turned into shrapnel. Unfortunately, this picture is of the new motor and tranny. My Crystal ball sees a custom pilot bushing in my future.


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## Vol

RuttedField said:


> I just got to get some hydraulic hoses and paint my upside down woodsplitter, but it is put together at least.
> 
> I basically built a carrier that goes on my 3 point hitch. This holds the hydraulic tank, trailer hitch and seat. Knowing I needed more flow and pressure then what the trailers powerpack could provide, I have a Prince PTO pump to move the splitter ram. The control is located on the arm rest of the seat.
> 
> The seat allows comfort while splitting because it might be an all day event, and when splitting firewood, adjustability, back rest tilt, head rest adjustment, and even lumbar support is obviously required! This came off a Ford Focus. I even put a cup holder on this thing so that I will always be properly hydrated because sitting down all day running levers is so exhausting! (insert sarcastic chuckle here).
> 
> These photos show how everything works and how the seat comes into play. 100% L.A.Z.Y...but I grew up doing firewood and still hate it. At least this way I do not have to lift anymore.


I like the seat....it even has a head rest to protect you from whiplash.

Regards, Mike


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## somedevildawg

Lostin55 said:


> This would be the explanation for why the old tranny turned into shrapnel. Unfortunately, this picture is of the new motor and tranny. My Crystal ball sees a custom pilot bushing in my future.


Mine too....


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## FarmerCline

Lewis Ranch said:


> Bandits out of the shop finally, had some 1.5x3" solid bar milled to fit within the old tubing drove it in and welded, I don't think I'll break the hole out again. Tomorrow I'll tackle the stroke counter on the baler. Anyone else wait till spring to get everything done when you've had all winter?


 Yep, I always seem to leave everything to last minute then scramble to get it done in time before first cutting.


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## FarmerCline

Busy past week here......got the moisture sensors installed on the new baler, decided a couple weeks ago to update my bandit to the iPad controls and just got the computer boards and everything back today to reinstall on the bandit, also working on getting the stroke counter installed on the baler as well. Still have to figure out the best way to get the case drain return line for the bandit hooked up to my 7510.....had all winter that I could have done that. Hoping to cut hay this weekend.


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## paoutdoorsman

IH 1586 said:


> Sort of. Make sure you use the correct pullers for the steering wheel. I think he called them "strong backs"??? He forgot his so went traditional, the wheel survived but has some new cracks in it. We just went for the first oil seal and bushing listed. We did not replace the bushing as there was the same amount of play between the new and old one. The old seal he pulled out looked better than the new one he installed but he thinks the old one may have been installed upside down. The amount of oil leaking is still diminishing as I run it. The telescoping had not worked for years so he want me to keep messing with it and see what happens.
> 
> I assume you have looked at the parts list. I replaced all hardware from top to the oil seal. clips, washers. If you have the time I would remove the whole assembly from the dash take it all the way down clean up and rebuild. We will be doing that if still leaking this winter. Will keep you updated if it does stop leaking.


IH, although I haven't pulled mine apart yet, I suspect the source of the oil is actually seal # 2 in the steering metering pump highlighted in the attached image. I believe that seal # 2 directly under the wheel is really just a dust seal - although it is the same part number. Is that what you replaced?


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## Gearclash

Wonderfull. Just got the MX170 MFD hubs together, now find out the new to me MX150 will also need the MFD hubs rebuilt. Practice makes perfect they say . . .


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## mlappin

Have a flat tire in the shop, a sharp rock went right thru it, did my standard procedure of clean with soapstone remover, buff, blow it out with air wand, apply cement, wait for it to dry, apply the boot, boot refuses to stick. Throw that $15 boot away and try another, it refuses to stick. Waited awhile, tried again, still won't stick, clean all the cement off, rebuff, try a different much more expensive cement, finally got the boot to stick. Remount tire, hear a leak, dismount tire, check the tube, nothing, figured maybe had air trapped in the tire, remount, pump it back up, leaks till it's down to 20 lbs and stops, pump it back up, same thing. Stem is bad, dismount and don't have a tube, call it a night and go drink cheap beer at the VFW as it was raining anyways.


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## Bgriffin856

One of many numerous fixes so far this year. 856 sprung a leak on the steel line from the remote valve to the coupler that had been brazed at some point in time. Got fittings and hoses and new couplers. Fixed alot of future leaks. Couplers would leak with certain hoses

Have to see how they work yet


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## glasswrongsize

Sporting new hoses and new couplers...sweet! I might recommend a breakaway clamp to protect them.

https://www.ruralking.com/parker-pioneer-break-away-clamp-double-5006-4-cs.html

I know my luck...break a hitch on something or drive off after unhooking ALMOST everything. I can tell you that a set of hyd hoses will NOT pull a 14' disk and something will give. If no breakaway clamp, it will prolly break the elbows instead of disconnecting.

Maybe you're more careful and have better "luck" that I have, but I won't go without them. I also find it easier to hook/unhook when the pioneer ends are captured in the clamp.

Mark


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## Gearclash

Giving Old Faithful a major workover. Almost 20,000 bales on in, most of that cornstalks. Some bearings are showing signs of nearing failure, stuffer needs new bushings and maybe shafts, pickup mount was really worn on the floor roll sprocket side, and various other things.


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## Gearclash

A bevy of baler bearings.


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## Gearclash

High time for new bale shape springs.


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## broadriverhay

2017 Chevy


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## paoutdoorsman

New hay hauler broadriver?


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## broadriverhay

Yep


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## mlappin

I have an assortment of stainless double wall stack waiting to be assembled, old stack gave up for the waste oil boiler.


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## Gearclash

Last minute decision to rebuild the rake wheels on my fairly new to me Rowse before we start baling cornstalks. For some reason, it is about $60 per wheel cheaper to replace the tines and ring than to buy a complete assembly on the 48 tine Rowse steel wheel. I haven't seen that in any other instance.


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## paoutdoorsman

Never used a wheel rake. How often in complete tine or wheel replacement necessary?


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## Gearclash

Tine life varies greatly, I can't even give you a good answer for hay. If the tines are adjusted so they are not hitting the ground hard they will last for many years. I rake mostly cornstalks and that cuts tine life to maybe a quarter of what it should be. The previous Rowse I had did roughly 10,000 5x6 bales on a set of tines that started out new. By 10,000 bales a few tines had broken, which in the cornstalk business means its time for new tines/wheels.


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## IH 1586

After years of leaking the radiator finally gave up this summer.


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## mlappin

Picking corn the other night and heard a god awful howl, something in the unloader. Got it apart Friday, decided flighting needed replaced as well. Flighting showed up today, got that on the vertical, bought the quarter inch stuff, I ain't doing it again. Replaced all the bearings in the cast housing after building up and turning down the shafts in a few places. Decided previous owner ran it with a bearing clear out to eat the shafts up like that. Had to turn the end of the double groove drive pulley down then get a machine washer as the bearing race had ate it's way into the end of it.


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## Farmineer95

DC case getting new front shoes and wheel bearings. Found original seal retainers and seals. Ouchie mama hot expensive.
Did you know the front rims double as weights??? they're cast iron and heavy. I kicked the first rim off and it rolled and fell onto the impact wrench. It doesn't work anymore.


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## somedevildawg

Ain't never seen them kinda wheels.....look very heavy!


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## PaMike

Customer buying a skidsteer from me wanted new tires. He had these tires on another skidsteer and wanted me to put a set on the machine he was buying. I got them on. He said they work great in snow and grip well. They would probably work well in mud too. Set of 4 ran me $780 for 12-16.5 which I didn't think was bad. Was able to get them mounted up with two irons and some lube. It wasn't the funest job ever, but far some the worst tire job I have done. Maybe I am just getting good at it...

Ok, so those pics were taken with my new smart phone. Phone buttons were to the bottom and right. How come the pics got rotated??


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## somedevildawg

That's a good price if they hold up....they look good anyways. I've spooned on my last tire....ok, maybe not my last, but if I can help it.....

I'm not sure what y'all are talking about "bottom,right" I always use the multifunction button in the middle of the right hand side to "snap" the pic.....

But, a good start would be to hold that phone/camera still as i.e. the first photo....


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## somedevildawg

Curious enuf, the second photo doesn't show up on my pad....just a ? In a box....first one shows up. When you expand it, well....I felt like I had a case of vertigo  
When you expand the ? Box the upside down photo magically appears.
Are you importing them to the haytalk app using "more reply options" and choosing from an existing library on your phone?


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## PaMike

somedevildawg said:


> Curious enuf, the second photo doesn't show up on my pad....just a ? In a box....first one shows up. When you expand it, well....I felt like I had a case of vertigo
> When you expand the ? Box the upside down photo magically appears.
> Are you importing them to the haytalk app using "more reply options" and choosing from an existing library on your phone?


I email them from phone then save them on my desktop computer. I then use the more reply options...

Being a new smart phone user I think its pretty good that I can get pictures, blurry or not!!


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## somedevildawg

Strange indeed.....I've never had those types of problems that others seem to have. I'm Using iPhone as camera and saving into my photo library and then uploading them to haytalk. When you save it in your photos, they are oriented the correct way, but the haytalk app appears to spin them sideways or upside down? You ain't the first to have problems that's for sure, just wish I knew the why/how it happens?......
In the example above, did you do anything differently on the second pic in so far as exporting/uploading to haytalk? I can't see the second photo at all unless expanded...


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## PaMike

Nope did everything the same in both... I got a bunch of good pics to post, but they are all sideways..

I even have a pic of a fresh rebuilt engine that has a giant hole in the side of the block where the cam exited...apparently the cam must have had a crack in it that we didn't know about...


----------



## Wethay

Never have seen a cam decide to remove itself before.


----------



## PaMike

Wethay said:


> Never have seen a cam decide to remove itself before.


We haven't figured it all out yet. "Something" dropped down and when the crank counter weight came around it hit it and punched it out through the side of the block...

We think its the cam as 2 lifters also exited...


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## PaMike

The 3 piece cam shaft...damage to parts along is over $1500...bad week..

On a better note...went to an auction and bought all these BRAND NEW USA made morse taper drills for about $250...those drill would be $25-$100 each new. Smallest is about 1/2" dia, largerst is 1 3/4" dia..


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## paoutdoorsman

Ouch on the camshaft PaMike, but nice find on the taper drills.


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## PaMike

Picked them all up at a PPL/Talon energy public auction in Hazleton. Auction was like none I have ever seen in both Volume and quality. All the tools/equipment/supplies were US made, and in good condition. Many were unused. Beautiful butcher block workbenches. Starret measuring tools. 5 gallon buckets full of like new Hammers, die grinders, adjustable wrenches....New in the case Snap On/Proto. U name it. It was a two day auction. Sat they started at 9 am and finished at about 6 PM with two auctioneers running FAST all day. Prices were sky high but the few pieces I did get were real deals. I should have bought a Proto 10:1 torque multiplier for $100 but just didn't feel like spending any more money...


----------



## CowboyRam

A couple weeks ago we bought a Internation 370 disk $775, pulled the rear right gang off and took it apart. Now I am just waiting on parts. With shipping we should have about $300 in parts, I don't think we did to bad on this disk.


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## Wethay

A three piece camshaft must be better than dual overhead cams, right?


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## mlappin

Wethay said:


> Never have seen a cam decide to remove itself before.


I had a Super 88 block ventilate itself while mowing hay a long time ago. Walked to the nearest house and called home and Mom tracked Dad down, a little later hired man showed up in the field with another Super 88, Dad was shortly after and they pulled the first one back to the farm to be stripped for parts. Used to be able to buy Super 88's for less than repairing them, blow one up, drag it out of the way, hook another up and get back to work. Turned out a rod broke, when it came around it hit the camshaft and send a section of that thru the block.

Have a 6x10 enclosed trailer in the shop atm, built an organizer/shelves bolted to one wall, have my combo brake/shear/rolls on the other wall. building a small worktop in the nose of it with more storage underneath. Getting tired of triple checking to make sure I have everything before heading to a job to do a boiler install. All the farms cordless tools are DeWalt, I'm stocking this with Milwaukee cordless, first time I see a red tool floating around the farm their will be holy hell to pay.


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## Vol

I used DeWalt cordless first for several years then about 7-8 years ago I decided to give Milwaukee a try. I seem to have better luck with Milwaukee batteries and just got to where I liked Milwaukee tools better. But who knows, the next person may feel exactly opposite.

Regards, Mike


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## mlappin

I have a butt ton of Dewalt tools, the first 5 batteries I bought seemed to last forever, the ones after that are kinda crap. I've been buying the adapters so I can use a 20V lithium in 18V tools, really gives em more snap with that extra 2 volts. I also see they have replacement 18v batteries available in lithium now, of course have to buy a different charger, the new chargers will charge either the old or new batteries.


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## Farmineer95

Got the front tires mounted. Carlises from Amazon to the rescue.
Its December and still worked up a lather before I was finished.

Now to finish a flat rack we are building.


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## mlappin

Absolutely nothing at the moment, did have a chance to play with a pre heater block I made, cartridge heater and pid controller for the waste oil boiler. Can safely say I have the cold oil issue d*cked.


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## Farmineer95

Finished the flat rack.some silo boards were already on a flat rack so getting their use a third time. Funny how some things just don't give up. Either that or a have an attachment disorder.


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## swmnhay

mlappin said:


> I've been buying the adapters so I can use a 20V lithium in 18V tools,


If I leave my 18V dewalt grease gun with the adapter and a 20v battery it will drain the battery when not in use.Has it done that for you Marty?


----------



## mlappin

swmnhay said:


> If I leave my 18V dewalt grease gun with the adapter and a 20v battery it will drain the battery when not in use.Has it done that for you Marty?


I have the 20 volt grease gun, but I haven't noticed the adapter draining any other batteries. All it does is change the contacts from 20 to 18 format, I'm pretty sure their is no electronics in the actual adapter.


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## swmnhay

mlappin said:


> I have the 20 volt grease gun, but I haven't noticed the adapter draining any other batteries. All it does is change the contacts from 20 to 18 format, I'm pretty sure their is no electronics in the actual adapter.


Yea I don't see why it should drain the battery.It didn't when I had the 18V battery on it.It's done in every time i forgot to unhook the battery.


----------



## stack em up

Building a grapple/bale sweep/accumulator/bale squeeze hybrid for big square bales for the loader tractor. Buddy is actually building it as he’s an awesome welder/fabricator. Building two of them, one a 2 bale and one a 3 bale. I think it’s gonna work pretty well. Trying to speed up every process we do on the farm, hopefully will give me more time to devote to family


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## mlappin

Need to get the install trailer back in the shop, going to build a work surface in the nose of it, just big enough for a vice or two, then more storage under it. Need to get the stand built for the press brake yet, and need to mount the spare tire on the tongue of the trailer. Want to rewire it a bit as well, now for the interior work lights to work you have to leave the clearance lights on, want to pick the +12 volt terminal a the truck plug for charging breakaway batteries and run that to the work lights inside the trailer and add a few more LEDS. Maybe some day even wire up a few 110volt outlets in the trailer as well, run a cord to the customers house and have juice in the trailer for other charging cordless batteries or even running a small space heater.


----------



## Aaroncboo

What's in my "shop"? Disappointment.... Lol. You ever just walk in somewhere look around, sigh ,say nope and walk out? That's me...


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## PaMike

So I picked up this C175 track machine up that needed engine work. 4k one owner hrs. Fully loaded machine. Got the machine up and running and decided to push some fence rows with it. Spend 6 hrs doing that and it ran flawlessly. Was heading back into the barn and decided to clean up some manure by the bale feeder. Took a few passes and then heard a loud crack and I loose all hydro power...with the boom down...Turns out two of the track motor hoses were rubbing. One blew and took out the other when it blew. Ended up using another skidsteer with a hose between them to lift the boom. You then remove the fender and use a 1 5/8" wrench to remove the hoses... 4 hrs later, countless trips into the barn for tools, and all covered in hydraulic oil and manure the hoses are off. $250 for 2 hoses and 5 gallons of oil and I should be up and running...

Of course I had to chase the cattle into another pasture and throw hay over the fence to them in order to keep them away from the skidsteer so they didn't mess with anything...and to top it off we have snow coming tonight...


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## paoutdoorsman

Nice skid loader. Get er back together and move some snow with it tomorrow...


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## Vol

PaMike said:


> So I picked up this C175 track machine up that needed engine work....


That is funny and sounds familiar. At least you got it ironed out now so if you sell you won't have someone cursing you. I need to put seals in my boom cylinders on my Bobcat....I wish you were closer.

Regards, Mike


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## Uphayman

Glad it's going again. This could go on the topic......." what didn't make it to the shop."


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## woodland

Uphayman said:


> Glad it's going again. This could go on the topic......." what didn't make it to the shop."











Nothing ever dies in the shop here. Usually on an ugly hill or the mud hole at the bottom of it. ????


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## Uphayman

You've got that right. This one puked going down a 3/8 mile runway on the farm. No air traffic at the time. Over the decades we've rolled chopper wagons from losing pins, sliding down wet slopes and jack knifing, and other wall of shame stupid plays. The challenge is getting them going again fast , as you're always under pressure........get the crop in.


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## PaMike

So I got the skidsteer running tonight. Those big hoses are hard to bend. And of course the hose that connects down low on the hydro pump is the top hose on the track motor so you had to work both hoses in at the same time as you can only get to the bottom fitting on each end when the top one is removed...finally got it closed up, 3 gallon of oil in it, and it limped off to "high ground". No major leaks that I can see at this point. System is loud from the air, not sure how/if you need to bleed the air from the system. It has pilot controls

This one took the cake for the toughest "under pressure/in place" repair I ever had to do... Picture shows the clearance between the track and the body. The shiny new fitting you can see is the 1 5/8" nut/swivel fitting. You probably could have accessed everything from the bottom better if you wanted to jack entire machine up and lay in manure....


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## somedevildawg

That's what can be tough about skid steers......compact is good when you're operating them, not so much when working on them


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## Gearclash

Weigh bar went wonky on my mixer wagon.









The weigh bar is also the axle stub, and the old one was pretty well stuck in the axle housing. So being fore warned by the scale guy that I got the new bar from about how difficult these things can be to remove, I went right to the nasty stuff. After some false starts, I ended up cutting off the threads of the old axle stub, and welding on a 1 1/4" shaft about 3 feet long. Started out with 10 lbs of mechanical tubing as a slide hammer. Things weren't moving so lets get more western. Welded on more pieces of tubing until there was 55 lbs acting as a hammer. Anything loose was falling off the wagon with each blow but out it came.

The shaft that inserts into the axle tube is 3" dia.


----------



## paoutdoorsman

I built a makeshift paint booth in one bay to remove the Texas sun stain from the wheels on the 6420. Set the wheel spacing out wider as well to straddle larger swaths.


----------



## PaMike

Wow, nice job and no paint on the tires...

So my C175 track machine is out of comission again. Had the new hoses on for a week or so and now the hard steal line right next to them for the part brake blew out...


----------



## paoutdoorsman

Thanks PaMike.

Looks like you might need a pair of tiny hands and possibly short wrenches to get that job done. I replacing a steal hydro line under and X758 garden tractor last night and almost had to 'customize' a 7/8" wrench to get the smashed line off. But I could get a 1/2 flat at time if I slipped the wrench in at just the right angle, and flipped it side to side every time. :angry:


----------



## PaMike

At least its not in manure, and if I dump another gallon of oil in it I can limp it over to a building with a concrete floor...

I called a mobile mechanic I use. Just don't have the time right now to deal with it. In the process of setting in a 1000 gallon cistern tank and a septic tank for the new shop...


----------



## azmike

We bought this 1947 Southbend lathe from one of our buds this week.


----------



## somedevildawg

Nice, table come with it?


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## azmike

Dawg, yes the table and lots of tooling! Just noticed I'm upside down!


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## somedevildawg

azmike said:


> Dawg, yes the table and lots of tooling! Just noticed I'm upside down!


Sweet, that new shop is gonna be well equipped! I'm envious.....congrats!


----------



## woodland

azmike said:


> Dawg, yes the table and lots of tooling! Just noticed I'm upside down!


Now you can mount the lathe on the ceiling and save floor space ????


----------



## broadriverhay

Nice lathe , I have a new model like that one. It comes in handy for small repairs. Any thing else goes to work and goes on the big machines.


----------



## azmike

I also saw this 1970 Triumph Bonneville in his shop, one trade lead to another.....I ended up with something that has been on my "wish list" since my teen years! It will be a complete restoration but only has 16,000 original miles.


----------



## somedevildawg

I bet you look like Steve McQueen perched up on that baby.....


----------



## r82230

azmike said:


> I also saw this 1970 Triumph Bonneville in his shop, one trade lead to another.....I ended up with something that has been on my "wish list" since my teen years! It will be a complete restoration but only has 16,000 original miles.


Sweet, brings back a few great memories and one not so sweet, IIRC different metric sizes from the Jap bikes at the time.

Larry


----------



## FarmerCline

Finished up a project last week that I started over 5 years ago and then got put on hold until this winter. I had bought a donor drill to rob the small seed box from to install on my JD FBB drill which was in pretty good condition considering it's age. The donor drill was in much worse shape than I realized because it had been used to apply fertilizer and the small seed box was full of rotten seed and eat up with rust. I took everything thing apart on the small seed box and sandblasted and painted it. Bought all new feed rolls and components. Then that spring I bought my JD 1590 no-till so I no longer needed the FBB so the project was put on the back burner.

Fast forward to this winter.....was bored with nothing to do so I decided to see if I could round up all the parts I had took off for the small seed box and finish rebuilding it and put the drill up for sale. Luckily I hadn't lost any of the castings even though I had stuff stored in four different places. Removed the drive components off the donor drill and got them sanded and repainted. Then started reassembling the small seed box with all the new components I had previously bought. Surprisingly I remembered enough of how it came apart to be able to get it all back together without much trouble. Only thing I had lost was the drive chains for small seed box which probably needed replacing anyway. Put all new bolts and hardware since the old stuff was so corroded. Was pretty pleased with myself for getting it done since I'm not much of a mechanic. Advertised it last week and sold it to someone that is going to use it for planting dove food plots. 































Hayden


----------



## azmike

somedevildawg said:


> I bet you look like Steve McQueen perched up on that baby.....


----------



## carcajou

Pics of a couple winter projects.. Complete rebuild on a 740 loader on a 7410 right down to the decals. Figure it cost about a third of a new loader. The triangle brackets now have bushings on both sides with longer pins. This solves an existing problem on the 740's. Pulled the mounts off and welded 5/8 thick t100 plate to the inside of the mounts, makes for a much stronger loader with no side flexing at full loader height when truck loading.









Went through the 4440 too. It got new coat of paint and decals when all the repairs were completed. Should look good for the rest of its working life now.


----------



## somedevildawg

Thems is some purty green tractors in that....WHITE STUFF! Can you take a pic of the bracket you made re. 740? 
You've been a busy feller over the winter months.....I'd be curled up like a bear and hibernate thru it all


----------



## PaMike

Oops...laid the mini over against a manhole...It went over nice and slow. About 2 minutes earlier I said to myself "I better put my seatbelt on, this is getting a little sketchy"...sure enough I was right.

Luckily it didnt need to go into the shop, just needed stood back up...


----------



## paoutdoorsman

I have to know... did you buckle up after telling yourself you should


----------



## somedevildawg

PaMike said:


> Oops...laid the mini over against a manhole...It went over nice and slow. About 2 minutes earlier I said to myself "I better put my seatbelt on, this is getting a little sketchy"...sure enough I was right.
> Luckily it didnt need to go into the shop, just needed stood back up...


Wish I could say I haven't done that....them Mini's are tipsy 
Good idea on the belt, mishaps can be very unforgiving....


----------



## PaMike

paoutdoorsman said:


> I have to know... did you buckle up after telling yourself you should


Yup, I did....

Kinda like the time I went down a hill with a loaded wagon and the thing jackknifed..the next week I loaded the tires full of calcium. Next time down the hill I threw the seatbelt on "just in case". Sure enough it jackknifed again and this time the tractor almost went over. Needless to say I don't go down that hill anymore.


----------



## Farmineer95

I finally finished a neighbors tractor. JD4850 with loose pivot pins and leaks up the wazoo. Had to machine the steering motor for the pivot pin to hold the front axle. New mfwd seals,new A/C, radiator repaired, new intake and exhaust gaskets,load shaft seals replaced. Then we get the Shoup catalog out and add big mirrors and beacon light. He got the tractor on the cheap and knew what he was getting to. I think it'll be good for a while now. He was happy to stay away from the dealer.


----------



## Vol

Farmineer95 said:


> He was happy to stay away from the dealer.


If you have a good knowledgeable mechanic, you will always come out better off staying away from the dealer.

Regards, Mike


----------



## Farmineer95

Wrapping up our 4020, thinking about 4 rib 10.00x16 for front tires. Want to use it on a rotary rake, pulvimulcher possibly drill. Is 4 rib the way to go? 20.8x34 rears.


----------



## Farmerbrown2

I have 10.00 15 4 rib on our one 4020 like them much more than the 7.50 18s on the other 4020 . My son and I plan on putting 10.00 4 ribs on 4020 with the 18s when they are worn out.


----------



## LukeS

We just put 11.L - 15 on our 3020 and love them>


----------



## Vol

LukeS said:


> We just put 11.L - 15 on our 3020 and love them>


Getting ready to replace some 11L-15's myself.....hard to beat a 4 rib.

Regards, Mike


----------



## Ranger518

I put airplane tires on my tractor and have been real happy with them.


----------



## IH 1586

Rake had a mishap last year and finished off the curtain. It had been getting rough and just not much left to work with. So going to try something different, the curtain is the aftermarket version off from a 1360 discbine and heavy belting for the support.


----------



## paoutdoorsman

That looks like it should work well Chris


----------



## Farmineer95

Took the 4020 out for a breakin run. Yep, went with the 4 rib fronts. Will get the sheetmetal buttoned up after a once over. Should be good for another 52 years, right?


----------



## PaMike

Was mowing with the 5120 Maxxum. Felt a vibration but couldnt figure out where it was coming from. Stopped twice and looked over the engine....Fan blade let loose, the entire cast fan mount cracked and the fan wedged down in. I guess the good thing is the radiator had a leak at the lower tank that was soldered once and was leaking again so it was due for replacement/rework. My guess is $800 in parts...


----------



## somedevildawg

On the bright side, the belt looks purty good......


----------



## Vol

Know the feeling PaMike. Imploded a disc mower a couple of days ago. It was a old Fella....that gave me pretty good service but is headed for the graveyard. I suppose I am going to have to break down and buy another. Cannot do without a disc mower on these upland hills. My next one won't be a Fella though. I will try something else.

Regards, Mike


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## PaMike

I ran after work to pick up all the parts to put the 5120 back together.Local shop had everything in stock for me. Got home and went to tedd hay and an arm blew off the tedder. Apparently the bolts had fatigued over time and they sheared off. I was soo pissed, and only had an acre to go that I ran the rpm low, and the ground speed slow and finished. When I was done I was happy to find that movement of the tedder had worked the broken bolts out, and all I had to do was put new in and I was good to go.


----------



## Vol

PaMike said:


> I ran after work to pick up all the parts to put the 5120 back together.Local shop had everything in stock for me. Got home and went to tedd hay and an arm blew off the tedder. Apparently the bolts had fatigued over time and they sheared off. I was soo pissed, and only had an acre to go that I ran the rpm low, and the ground speed slow and finished. When I was done I was happy to find that movement of the tedder had worked the broken bolts out, and all I had to do was put new in and I was good to go.


I have had that happen to tedder arms and I have had tedder tines break off also from fatigue of years of use. I found a tedder tine once with a pretty new inline Hesston/MF square baler. 

Regards, Mike


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## PaMike

Dad bought the tedder used in '92 so I guess it doesn't owe me anything...

Vol, Do you use a Disc mower and a mower/conditioner? You don't just use a disc mower for everything?


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## slowzuki

When we used to pickup hay by hand we would find several tines a year always wondered how much we should worry about the baler eating one. Usually lose 3-4 Tedder tines ever year and a couple of rake tines.



Vol said:


> I have had that happen to tedder arms and I have had tedder tines break off also from fatigue of years of use. I found a tedder tine once with a pretty new inline Hesston/MF square baler.
> 
> Regards, Mike


----------



## Farmineer95

I checked my tedder arm bolts the other day just for I don't know why. Snugged a couple then broke one. What the heck. Last year one broke in the field, took a bit to figure out wher the clanging was coming from. I think I'm going to check them more often just because.


----------



## LukeS

What type of tedder is that?


----------



## Vol

PaMike said:


> Dad bought the tedder used in '92 so I guess it doesn't owe me anything...
> 
> Vol, Do you use a Disc mower and a mower/conditioner? You don't just use a disc mower for everything?


Sorry Mike, I missed your question as I have been pretty busy with the farm. I do use a moco for my river bottom land for the Orchard grass and Alfalfa and Timothy. I use the disc mower for my upland which includes some hills and hillsides. It is much more maneuverable to do so and a lot less dangerous. The uplands consists of mainly fescue grass which dries very fast without conditioning. You cannot mow with something heavy on some of the hillsides and the disc mower is only around 1200 pounds so it is much safer weight wise.

Regards, Mike


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## PaMike

Wow, I didnt realize your land was that steep in your neck of the woods.

I too would be rather busy if it ever stops raining...


----------



## Vol

PaMike said:


> Wow, I didnt realize your land was that steep in your neck of the woods.


It can be in places....but mainly fairly level to rolling. I mow it all....and where I cannot mow I have planted trees. Very little farm land in this county.

Regards, Mike


----------



## Farmineer95

LukeS said:


> What type of tedder is that?


I have a Sitrex, same as H&S. RT 5800h
Lost another arm last cutting, anybody's guess as to its whareabouts. I welded plates with a hole in at the outer bolt hole to stiffen it up. Only weld along the length of the arm, not across it's width. The new ones I ordered came that way.


----------



## mlappin

Finally got my install trailer finished. Worked on it a bit before the knee surgery then a little as pain level allowed, finished it today. Rewired the internal lights, originally they were hooked to the marker lights which worked as long as you don't mind leaving the marker lights on for long periods. Now they run off the 12 volts on the AUX connection from the truck plug, also added a marine battery to the tongue to allow use while unhooked from a tow vehicle.

Added two more LED lights from Amazon and a $6 LED volt meter to keep track of battery voltage.

https://www.flickr.com/gp/[email protected]/74H630


----------



## Gearclash

I turned this contraption loose on the unsuspecting cornstalks of Sioux County. It smashes the stumps of the stalks down before the rake comes along. It lets the rake do its job a lot better and should greatly extend rake tine life. Roller on the front of this tractor, pulling the rake at the same time.


----------



## CowboyRam

Had the hydraulic cylinders rebuilt for the loader; was not expecting it to cost that much. I was thinking somewhere around $500 to $700 per cylinder, but no $1100 each. Of course they had to replace the rod, that is what jump the cost up, so after spending $2200 bucks they no longer leak. Before we took them in, you see the oil pushing past the seals.


----------



## Farmineer95

Resurrecting the South end of a North facing Chandler. Stainless hopper but carbon steel support frame for the spinners. Hope after this rebuild it's good another 10 years again. New ones are make the same way I guess. Priced stainless for replacement members, but too pricey. Plan to wash it and clean up the paint after each season.


----------



## paoutdoorsman

Looks like a good project Farmineer. Post up some pics when you get it finished up.


----------



## PaMike

Here is my new to me "totaled" 7060 baler. This baler was being sold via sealed bid. I threw in a "low" bid just to see where the ranking was. I really didnt need another project but was curious where the bidding was. Long story short I ended up being the high bidder. I bought it off 3 pictures and the damage assesment that said something was run through the baler and damaged the inside... Once I was high bidder I talked to the NH dealer where it was sitting and the service manager tells me "the main frame is bent by the duckbill on the left side, so we totaled it. We don't know what all it would take to fix other than a whole new frame weldment." It turns out the bold and washer that holds one of the sledge rolls in place had backed out. It appears someone had recently worked on the baler, so my guess is someone forgot to tighten a bolt. That bolt and washer worked their way out and wedged the sledge frame against the baler frame. As you can sell there is a very slight bow in the sheetmetal of the baler side. Incidentally my BR740a has the same bow out in the same place.. When the frame wedged tight the roll also wedged causing the chain that drives the roll assembly to break. I had to torch out the sledge frame to unjam the whole mess. Looks like a new sledge frame, a new bearing, a rollerchain and some hardware and we will be back in business. Not bad for a $4500 bid! The dealer/owner robbed the control box and CV PTO end off the baler so I will need to acquire them yet too. Now, the real question is do I sell my tried and true BR740a or sell this 7060??


----------



## somedevildawg

I would'nt entertain anything until that baby made a few rolls........you'll like the 7060, did you get the monitor? Or is that what you're calling the control box......


----------



## PaMike

No monitor, but got a used one coming with the harness for $530. Going over it from top to bottom so not too worried about the 7060 if the br740a wouldt sell. Biggest downside of selling 740a would be mounting applicator and moisture meter pads on the 7060.


----------



## Farmineer95

I have a ve plow for a truck adapted to fit the skid steer. Kept blowing a fuse when raising. Turns out the 7 pin plug I'm using actually is grounded through the same contact, doh. Suspected the harness was the culprit, last year I caught it on something and had to repair it, hence the dangling wires. Gonna need more tape.

Finally put the Tigerlights in the 4020. Yeah, worth it.

The engine is a Buda, I think. It's from an Allis Chalmers motor scraper. Actually a LaPlant Chote sp? TS200. If anyone knows where to get parts or has one laying around, let me know. I think it's 200hp of naturally aspirated diesel bark (I wanna put a chrome straight pipe on it, but it's not mine). This one is going to take a while, but will be cool to drive, glad I'm not paying the bill too, eek.

Can anyone say A.D.D.? 
No the spreader isn't done, but I do have the material. The 309ss wire is on order.


----------



## Farmineer95

Yes, chains on a skidsteer, makes plowing snow go easier, only need them on the back by the way, that was this weekends project, and an oil change/ bit of a cleanup.


----------



## broadriverhay

Decided shop needed some organizing. It is a work in progress, but here are some before and after pictures.


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## Aaroncboo

I like it. Wish my garage was anywhere near that big... Or clean...lol


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## 32-0-0

I’ve got shop envy...hell, the before picture looks better than 95% of the shops I’ve seen.


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## paoutdoorsman

Very nice Henry!


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## Gearclash

My $100 heated shop lol! Too miserably cold to be reinstalling a hydraulic pump so throw a tarp over it and put a heater under the tarp.


----------



## carcajou

Gearclash said:


> My $100 heated shop lol! Too miserably cold to be reinstalling a hydraulic pump so throw a tarp over it and put a heater under the tarp.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 12C7EBAC-CC14-45E7-B462-BD8ABAF40F06.jpeg


Been there lots with a parachute and a diesel space heater.


----------



## broadriverhay

Still building shelves. I am probably going to do one more small area. Then I think i will start getting ready for hay season. Start doing some PMs on equipment.


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## Vol

Looking good broadriver....including "the mans" pic on the wall.

Regards, Mike


----------



## IH 1586

Tractor I purchased this spring from retirement auction. Going totally through it and resolving some minor hydraulic leaks. When I purchased it I went through it with the hood off as well and blew out a lot of acorns, well now with batteries removed I'm still finding them. Been a really good tractor approaching 9000 hrs.


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## broadriverhay

Could not stand it, I had to do one more short wall. Oh and # 3 is going bad on the wall.


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## Vol

Going back?(bad)

Regards, Mike


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## broadriverhay

Back on the wall . Sorry


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## broadriverhay

#3 back on the wall as promised. And even I made the wall , a Safety poster from work a few years ago. Safety man asked for a picture of me and my tractor. I had no idea what he was going to do with it. Then one day there I was on display at the plant entrance.


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## Ranger518

Some people think I am stupid for painting my equipment but I like it to look good and operate well and enjoy restoring them. Just finished compleat rebuild of my 258 rake all new bearings, tins, u-joints, bushings, seals, tires, decals, and paint should be ready to go for a long time.


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## paoutdoorsman

Looks like a whole new rake Ranger518. Very nice!


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## 32-0-0

There’s nothing wrong with taking care of your equipment. Give your equipment some love when you can... you will be repayed with fewer breakdowns.


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## Vol

Ranger518 said:


> Some people think I am stupid for painting my equipment but I like it to look good and operate well and enjoy restoring them. Just finished compleat rebuild of my 258 rake all new bearings, tins, u-joints, bushings, seals, tires, decals, and paint should be ready to go for a long time.


She really looks nice Ranger....I bet you did a lot better job of painting that rake than New Holland did. I had a 258 that I bought new and it rusted inside the barn the paint was so thin. I think they must have used one can of red and one can of yellow when they painted mine. 

Regards, Mike


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## Farmineer95

Are you sure that's the same rake? Nice job, looks like new????


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## Aaroncboo

Is it wrong I hate how clean your floor is?... Lol. Rake looks sweet! Nice job


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## Ranger518

Thanks guys. I have always enjoyed restoring, and fabricating things.

paoutdoorsman I always try and make my restorations as close to OEM as I can with the proper decals and paint scheme . Thanks!

32-0-0 that is my thinking clean it up replace what needs to be replaced or repaired and it will make up for time spent fixing when there is hay to be baled. Thanks!

VOL I have noticed that new holland and most equipment dealers do crappy paint from the factory this rake had runs all in the original paint. Thanks!

Farmineer95 yep same rake I pretty much always try and make them look factory done. Thanks!

Aaroncboo it not as clean as it looks but I do try and keep a very clean and organized shop and it does get used. Thanks!


----------



## IHCman

broadriverhay said:


> Could not stand it, I had to do one more short wall. Oh and # 3 is going bad on the wall.


I like the aluminum railroad jacks under the bench. My Dad has 4 of them. Use them all the time. Never have liked handyman jacks. The aluminum ones are heavy enough, I've only ever once seen a steel one and I had to carry that heavy sucker.


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## broadriverhay

Those are both steel and yes very heavy. One was my Granddads . He passed away in 1963 , the other I bought about 5 years ago at a junk yard . They are the same model number but are not exactly the same. They are Simplex 101.


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## Aaroncboo

It seems almost every farm has one of those old jacks lying around. Lol


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## paoutdoorsman

Fixed a few minor things and cleaned/detailed a 6140R this week. Nice unit. I'm not sure I'm sold on all the changes on the newer Deeres.


----------



## broadriverhay

Nice tractor. Is that yours?


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## paoutdoorsman

No, not mine. Just working on it for a customer.


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## slowzuki

Second time this has happened, it looks like I missed something when I reassembled 1500 hours ago.


----------



## Gearclash

slowzuki said:


> Second time this has happened, it *looks like I missed something when I reassembled 1500 hours ago.*


Is that a wheel bearing? On a loader, anything is possible. I'd say if there was something wrong it would have manifested itself a long time ago. I would be interested to know if there was ever a loader tractor built that had a front axle with an rating that was adequate for the loads imposed on it.


----------



## slowzuki

Yes the outer wheel bearing is the bits but inside I found a stack of shims jammed in a circlip groove and the top knuckle seal had failed let a ton of dirt into this end.

Looked over my notes and I think it was the other side I did... not sure now. May have pushed the clip out of the groove when the bits of bearing went through the gears on the road.


----------



## broadriverhay

Well , just finished building a table for Mother in laws garage. She needed a space saver.


----------



## broadriverhay

Rebuilding an old vise that was my Dad’s. 1961 model 8400 Wilton. Here are some before and during pictures. I’ve got to make balls to go on the handle because I’m replacing it since it was beat up pretty bad. I’m also waiting on the Hammered Verde Green paint to come in.


----------



## glasswrongsize

Wulp, I dropped the hammer on a new-to-me baler NH BR740 badged as a CaseIH RBX452. NEW IRON!!! 

I had @190 miles drive to give it a peek-see; I left Sunday with icy roads; wife sent me a warning that I57 was a parking lot; tucked tail and went back home... it was slicker than a gut and getting worse.

Next day, I left at sunup and took the trip. The baler looked good on the surface, but after lifting her petticoats, things were a little tired. :huh:









I thought I gave it a good looking-over (thanks to this site and notably Mike10 and Gearclash I felt confident in my assessment) I knew the chains were shot; I knew the middle roller in the sledge had issues;... I knew the stationary roller (on hex shaft) had issues; I knew it needed a new set of dentures; I knew it needed two belts relaced; etc... Thanks to Haytalk  , I went ahead and bought it at nowhere near the asking price...which wasn't actually too bad even for its condition.

I felt was an informed buyer and recognized most of the baler's issues as well as recognized that it has had a hard life with poor maintenance; I thought I bought right *IF* I could fix it for less than $3-4k  Guessed I'd have 1.5-2k in just the two rolls.

I got it loaded onto the GN trailer and bucked headwind and rain all the way uphill towards home. JD's love for diesels would sure have fit my demeanor pulling that wind-wall of a baler with my ¾ ton gasser and getting 5mpg for the first half of the trip back. Cleanup was ongoing on y'day's accidents on the superslab and traffic was completely stopped for a spell. ...also rained ALL STINKING DAY!!









Left at sunup and made it back after sundown.









Thanks again to Mike10, I downloaded his PDFs and confidently tore into the repairs (also have repair manual and owner's manual for backup). Dreading the unknown, I started with the top dimpled roller in the sledge; turns out that a lil old $24 hub was broken; didn't even have to take the roll out of the sledge.

Next, I worked on the roll with the hex shaft; as much play as was in it, I expected the end to be broken out of it, but I got lucky and it was just worn. Local machine shop fixed shaft to fit worn hex socket tightly for $40.









Replaced EVERY chain on the baler. I really expected a couple/few of the sprockets on the main-frame to be unserviceable, but every one turned out ok-for-now (for at least another set of chains). I have never seen chains so worn and don't know how the sprockets survived as well as they have.









Well, I had never seen chains so worn *until* I opened up the pickup drive area. The drive sprocket for the auger was SHOT!!









The chain was worse.

















I replaced two sprockets and all chains in the pickups.

About the only thing that I failed to catch on my assessment was the fact that both "springs" (flappy things in the chamber) for the bale density were AWOL; they've now been replaced and potentiometers are calibrated.

It is ready to go to the field now, with a grand total of @$728 in repairs (inclusive of the purchase of the repair and operator's manuals)

I also learned my lesson with my tedder and realizing that newer equipment takes more hyd pressure than my old tractors ever produced. I brought an in-line pressure gauge and knew it took @1300psi to open the gate and knew ol' 460 wouldn't open it; if it would, it would be just-barely). The baler has room to move to 2.5x16 cylinders... still have to get those and put them on (cost not tabulated on those yet...but they would have needed replace on a brand-new baler, so I don't count that toward the "repairs".)

It is ready to go to the field now, with a grand total of @$728 in repairs (inclusive of the purchase of the repair and operator's manuals)

















The baler has room to move to 2.5x16 cylinders... still have to get those and put them on.

C'mon drier weather and warmer temps!!

Mark

Next is to go thru the NH276 square baler before spring...sawmill just came out of "shop" (engine rebuild) prior to the CaseIH baler going in. Been a busy winter in an open front barn!!


----------



## Gearclash

Looks good glass! Couple suggestions . . . if you haven't already, check the sledge frame for wear where the belts pass it. Weld up the groove if its deep enough. That roller that you have out in the 4th picture will benefit from having 3/16" round bar welded to it so as to double the number of round bars on that roller. If you need pickup cam followers, get them from Shoup--exact same part as CNH for a nice savings. If you want to make the pickup chains fool proof, put 530 RX ring motorcycle chain on them, and if you really want to goo the extra mile, replace the silly nylon idler with a real sprocket idler. Then you will only ever need to mess with the chains if you are in there working on something else.


----------



## broadriverhay

All done with vise rebuild. This vise should be ready for 58 more years.


----------



## Farmineer95

Got back to the fertilizer spreader. Was interrupted by a tractor that needed a new wrist pin bushing. The Oliver is running again, but needs one oil leak fixed yet.
Also welded in new sleeves on the skid steer for lower bucket pivot. More gooder now.
View attachment 79676


----------



## paoutdoorsman

Looks more gooder Farmineer95


----------



## PaMike

Farmineer95 said:


> Got back to the fertilizer spreader. Was interrupted by a tractor that needed a new wrist pin bushing. The Oliver is running again, but needs one oil leak fixed yet.
> Also welded in new sleeves on the skid steer for lower bucket pivot. More gooder now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> IMG_20190309_112550760.jpg


Thats one thing I have never had to do on an LX/LS/L skidsteer. Did you go aftermarket or does NH have weld in replacement bushings?

I will say I could probably rebuild those quick attach pivot bushings in my sleep. I've done so many of those things I wish I could slap each operator that didn't realize the bucket pivot has a grease zerk...


----------



## broadriverhay

I needed dual remotes for the new Pequea Tedder so here is the solution that I came up with thanks to some help here on Haytalk. Valve assembly from Summit Hydraulics. Thanks for the info guys.


----------



## Aaroncboo

The bottom rusted apart on my feeder and since my metal skills are not that great especially with thin metal but I do have good wood working skills I figured I'd give it a shot. Coated in flex seal and screwed together I'd should last a long time. Way cheaper than a new one. I paid 150 for this 15 years ago and never had to do anything with it. Figured she deserved a little tlc. Sorry for the pics all messed up. One day I'll figure it out...


----------



## 32-0-0

Aaroncboo said:


> 20190306_171840.jpg 20190309_205920.jpg 20190310_191639.jpg 20190319_145944.jpg
> 
> The bottom rusted apart on my feeder and since my metal skills are not that great especially with thin metal but I do have good wood working skills I figured
> I'd give it a shot. Coated in flex seal and screwed together I'd should last a long time. Way cheaper than a new one. I paid 150 for this 15 years ago and never had to do anything with it. Figured she deserved a little tlc. Sorry for the pics all messed up. One day I'll figure it out...


Excellent woodwork...it looks like a big birdbath.


----------



## Farmineer95

PaMike- New Holland offers the bushings for the boom. The ones in the plate my dealer happened to have some made up. My LS180 was used by a logger guy that did concrete prep work in "off season" pretty decent for the money I felt, but boom is sloppy. He had a pretty good sized set of forks for loading sticks. It had a third curved fork that came down on top to pinch the load. 
It was a decent project for the better part of a Saturday, but I felt it was time to fix it before the haying season gets going. Still have some other things on the to do list, but there are still snow piles here.


----------



## glasswrongsize

Well, the new-to-me NH276 made it through the "shop".

It hasn't been used in 20+ years and has been shedded. The owner warned me that it probably needed a new set of knotters... he explained that, when they had problems with the knotters, they just put a new set on and threw the old ones away. There was virtually no wear on any of the parts; one of the gears had a small bit of wear on the flat, but not bad by any means. I have been happy with knotters in worse shape. About the only thing I did to it was sharpen the knives and adjust the tucker fingers.









I was confident when I bought it that I knew what the problem was with the knot trouble... I didn't take a picture before I cut the twine, but THAT is the same piece of twine and in the same place before I removed it. One of the strings was strung correctly... the other?... not so much. The tension coming out of the twine box was too tight too.

















I pulled the plunger and replace a couple of bearings; none of them seemed to bad,









but while I was in there... I also changed the plunger bushings; they were not too bad either; only had 0.010 wear on them.









Of course, I sharpened the knives while the plunger was out and easy to deal with.

The hay stops (wedges) were in poor shape; put three new sets in.









Took clutch plumb apart to ensure the clutch had not delaminated or anything. It was in fairly good shape as well.









Next, I have to put my hitch (for accumulator) on, run the hydraulic hoses, and mount my camera. Should be ready to go by first cutting.

Mark

Don't know how the heck I done it, but bent cylinder on the skid steer tilt today. I reckon the piddling on the baler will take backseat to getting THAT fixed tomorrow.


----------



## IH 1586

4040 is in the shop for a seat rebuild and pto shaft bearing replacement. Having a tech replace the bearing as I lack some of the tools for proper replacement while the drive shaft is in the tractor and of course technique.


----------



## Farmineer95

Nice looking weld. Did you make up some new bushings?


----------



## swmnhay

New shoes


----------



## Farmineer95

Rebuild almost done. Added uhmw sheet for a deflector, maybe end up taking it off if too much is trapped behind it. Was going to use stainless washers to gap it off the new cross member.


----------



## stack em up

In the outdoor shop cuz we have too much crap in the indoor one...

New disc openers, chute guards, scrapers, adding MudSmith gauge wheels, Copperhead closing wheels and drag chains. Figure we maybe able to use it by Memorial Day. Raining again.


----------



## Aaroncboo

You mean the pretenda shed. I have a couple of those. Easy to expand and all natural lighting.


----------



## IH 1586

4430 that I picked up at auction to replace 1586 is getting a thorough cleaning and fixing up some of the known issues with it. Farmer liked his equipment to look good and the spray can was his friend but basic mechanical and maintenance not so much.

































Most of this came from in the cab. I should be the 3rd owner and came from the west as a planting tractor before local farm bought it approx 25 years ago. Blew out several inches of dust from under the cab roof.

















Radiator and hyd pump leaks, focusing on those 2 now.









One thing I failed to check when we did our preliminary inspection weeks before the auction was to pull the air filter and was not impressed with what I found.

























6 hour drive to get home. Made for a scenic drive through the Alleghany National Forest at 18 mph. Half way home a rig job on alternator wire came apart and lost power. Told wife were good as long as I don't stall it. Pulled home corn picker for my uncle. Would have a few more pics but wife's phone is making them an HEIC file????? and they don't download to computer.


----------



## swmnhay

stack em up said:


> In the outdoor shop cuz we have too much crap in the indoor one...
> New disc openers, chute guards, scrapers, adding MudSmith gauge wheels, Copperhead closing wheels and drag chains. Figure we maybe able to use it by Memorial Day. Raining again.


Did you have issue with mud in gauge wheels?Reason for putting Mudsmiths on?My 8222 has never had issue but 5100 and 6100 did with rotary scrapers.Put the carbide scraper on 6100 and solved it.Putting carbides on the 8222 today being it's tore apart and had carbides on the shelf.And it's a raining every day!

I have 1 Dawn curve tine instead of Copperhead for my closing wheels.Like the job it does in wet conditions.


----------



## broadriverhay

I have put expanded metal on the steps of my cab tractors since my Blue Heeler always rides with me. Without doing this her foot could go through causing a leg fracture. Just something for y’all to think about.


----------



## Vol

Good idea and it looks nice.

Regards, Mike


----------



## stack em up

swmnhay said:


> Did you have issue with mud in gauge wheels?Reason for putting Mudsmiths on?My 8222 has never had issue but 5100 and 6100 did with rotary scrapers.Put the carbide scraper on 6100 and solved it.Putting carbides on the 8222 today being it's tore apart and had carbides on the shelf.And it's a raining every day!
> I have 1 Dawn curve tine instead of Copperhead for my closing wheels.Like the job it does in wet conditions.


Not putting Mudsmiths on every row, just trying it on 3 by the wheels. And me being poor, it's not the "true" Mudsmiths, it's a knock off version i found on Craigslist....

https://siouxfalls.craigslist.org/grd/d/alexandria-mud-style-gauge-wheels/6866625542.html


----------



## broadriverhay

Working on hydraulic swing for my NH BC 5070. I didn’t want to pay $660 for the NH kit. I got the cylinder for $119 for TSC and I will make the brackets. I just hate getting out of the A/C to put a chock at the tire then get back in them back out. Made so cardboard templates today so now find some material. Of course pictures to follow.


----------



## broadriverhay

Rear bracket fabricated today.


----------



## stack em up

Nice looking beads broadriver.


----------



## IH 1586

Both tractors finally up and running. Shop in need of some major cleaning.


----------



## swmnhay

Mine is full of seed that should be in the ground.


----------



## paoutdoorsman

IH 1586 said:


> Both tractors finally up and running. Shop in need of some major cleaning.


Good to hear Chris! I hope they serve you well this summer!


----------



## broadriverhay

Nothing now , it’s hay season!!!! Start cutting tomorrow.


----------



## broadriverhay

I didn't mean to run everybody away from this topic. I know y'all are working on something. I am going to be mounting a fire extinguisher on the M5-091 this weekend. I had a friend cutting a newly acquired field that was way passed mature rye grass that caught fire while cutting. Also another had a new barn that burned. I just want to do my part to avoid these types of issues.


----------



## broadriverhay

Got the toolbox and fire extinguisher mounted. All I need now is a Kubota sticker for the John Deere toolbox. I also had a hay customer from Tennessee about burn up a round baler because of a bad bearing.


----------



## CowboyRam

Picked up a transfer tank the other day. Got it all painted up today. I hope the pump works; I guess I will find out once I get it hooked up. Even if it does not work, not to bad for $100.

Before









After


----------



## Ranger518

broadriverhay said:


> Got the toolbox and fire extinguisher mounted. All I need now is a Kubota sticker for the John Deere toolbox. I also had a hay customer from Tennessee about burn up a round baler because of a bad bearing.


This reminded me that I need to mount my fire extinguisher I bought over the winter.


----------



## broadriverhay

Moved the monitor for the Accumalator from the windshield area to just about the console on the right side.


----------



## paoutdoorsman

Cool bracket Broad River! Did you build that?


----------



## broadriverhay

Yes , I built it. Just 2 pieces of plate with a twist in one.


----------



## broadriverhay

JD 3010 will be in the shop this weekend getting the ROPS and canopy installed. Ordered it last Wednesday and received it today from Ironbull manufacturing. Looks to be well build but haven’t uncrated it yet. Those guys were great to deal with. Very prompt responses to emails and questions.


----------



## broadriverhay

I forgot to post some pictures of the hydraulic swing I made for the baler. It is very difficult to get good pictures of this .


----------



## Farmineer95

Nice touch with the swing. What is the stroke of the cylinder?


----------



## broadriverhay

8" stroke and that is more than enough for full swing.


----------



## broadriverhay

ROPS and canopy installed. Also installed Armaflex insulation under the canopy. Everything fit great. This top is an exact OEM replacement.


----------



## broadriverhay

Anyone needed fender mounting brackets for JD 3010 or similar, I have 4 that I don’t need. Also one front weight starter do the same.


----------



## broadriverhay

Dang guys y’all have nothing in the shop. Well I guess that’s a good thing.


----------



## glasswrongsize

broadriverhay said:


> Dang guys y'all have nothing in the shop. Well I guess that's a good thing.


Well Broadriver, I guess you decided for me; I didn't know whether to post in Wall-of-Shame or in the New equipment/less headache thread. This one it is!

I was raking along with my 8 wheel rake and looked back to see that it had been field-upgraded to a four wheel rake. The 3" pipe had broken; they are not the thickest metal and it looked like it had been fatigued for a while. I was in a 20 acre field, but didn't have too much more to go; it would have taken longer to go home and get a bar rake than to finish with the "/" rake... it was no longer a "V"

























I got the field baled and we put some pretty nice lespedeza in the barn that night.









I was able to get the old broken pipe pulled out of the inside of the other pipe without too much problem; I was concerned it would me misshapen and hard to pull out...it was a little, but not terribly.









I cut out the old pipe and welded in a new heavier piece (no picks of finished product) yesterday.









Since the ole Farmall H's hydraulics struggled with folding the rake fully; I had to get off tractor and lift the left wing and then hit the hyd lever again a couple of times to pin it in the up-position. I put shim in the relief and boosted the pressure from @750psi to @1200 psi. Fingers crossed that the cam gear holds. No pics of that either... nothing too interesting to see there.

Mark


----------



## broadriverhay

At least you were creative and got it done.


----------



## Aaroncboo

Sometimes it's almost better when stuff like that breaks and you can engineer it yourself a little heavier and stronger. I have stingrays at home and I built my own tank stands because I didn't trust the cabinet stand to hold up a 300-gallon tank. I'm convinced the stand I built can hold up a truck... Lol my wife always yells at me when I try to build things because I over engineer the crap out everything and they tend to be heavy... Lol


----------



## Mf5612

Haven't had much in my shop for awhile,until my boys rolled in w an old diesel powered rev.lol
My wife was not too happy but was soon helping clean it up.they are heading up north to a provincial park this emend. I hope they make it.


----------



## Ranger518

Always seems as my pickup in my old 336 was a little to small so I made a longer left side shield and also made a pick up wheel for the right side. Now let’s see if it works.


----------



## Wethay

That looks nice, please let us know how it works out. Did you fab the wheel hub?


----------



## Ranger518

Wethay said:


> That looks nice, please let us know how it works out. Did you fab the wheel hub?


Will do. I made everything but the hub I was going to make 1 out of pipe with some bearings, races and weld it to the center plate I built but it was cheap ($45.00) and easier to just buy a 1" trailer hub and spindle.


----------



## paoutdoorsman

I'll be curious as well to know how that works out. The updated 336 decals add a nice touch. Where did you have them made?


----------



## Ranger518

paoutdoorsman said:


> I'll be curious as well to know how that works out. The updated 336 decals add a nice touch. Where did you have them made?


I rebuild the baler a few winters back with pretty much all new bearings, rebuilt knotters, slides, chains, and then sanded it down and repainted it to looks like the newer John Deere balers and had the custom decals made with 3m vinyl by somebody off eBay that made custom decals I think for all the decals and stripes it was less than $50.00.


----------



## paoutdoorsman

Sabotaged engine on this JD Gator 825i. It appears someone added some sand into the oil fill. The threads of the fill cap were quite sandy, and there is still some traces of sand laying in the base of the head, but most made it to the pan. Hefty scars inside the oil pump, crank and rod bearings heavily sand blasted, and crank journals wasted.

The patient.










Traces/evidence of sand in the oil filter, on the top ledge of the oil sump pickup, in the oil pan, and the remnants left in the drain pan.





































Dropping the crank from underneath.










Crankshaft journals scarred










Rod bearings










Crank bearings


----------



## IHCman

whoever put that sand in that gator deserves a special place in hell.


----------



## glasswrongsize

IHCman said:


> whoever put that sand in that gator deserves a special place in hell.


 My first thought too; then made myself feel better by thinking maybe that was the sumbitch that keeps driving thru people's fields, trespassing, and tearing crap up, in which case, I developed a little smile.

Mark


----------



## broadriverhay

Ranger518 , I did the same thing on my old NH 273 years ago. The gathering wheel made a tremendous difference in the pickup width. You will really like the upgrade. I have since upgraded the baler to a NH BC 5070 with a wider pickup and higher capacity. It’s funny we had the exact same idea. Mine looked almost identical to yours. Great minds think alike.


----------



## Ranger518

broadriverhay said:


> Ranger518 , I did the same thing on my old NH 273 years ago. The gathering wheel made a tremendous difference in the pickup width. You will really like the upgrade. I have since upgraded the baler to a NH BC 5070 with a wider pickup and higher capacity. It's funny we had the exact same idea. Mine looked almost identical to yours. Great minds think alike.


That's good to know it worked out well if this weather bereaks this week I hope to try it out.


----------



## Farmineer95

Welded up a skid for a fuel tank. It used to be in a house basement, plan to use it for winter fuel. Used up some tubing I salvaged from another scrapped machine, big enough for pallet forks on the skid steer. Have a 12 volt pump currently used in a 55 gallon drum. Primed it today, gonna paint the ends yellow with a big smile face. 
Any ideas for the big sides? Maybe a Holstein pattern?


----------



## Ranger518

1 of 2 water reels I bought at a auction last fall. I pretty much rebuilt them both by replaced all the plumbing, springs, chains and repainted it and got everything working properly. Never used one before not sure if it is going to be a good thing or not.


----------



## Ox76

Farmineer95 said:


> Welded up a skid for a fuel tank. It used to be in a house basement, plan to use it for winter fuel. Used up some tubing I salvaged from another scrapped machine, big enough for pallet forks on the skid steer. Have a 12 volt pump currently used in a 55 gallon drum. Primed it today, gonna paint the ends yellow with a big smile face.
> Any ideas for the big sides? Maybe a Holstein pattern?


Whatever you decide to paint it, making it silver or white as much as possible will benefit you by keeping the fuel cooler in the sun/summer. I suppose this might help with microbe/algae growth.


----------



## IHCman

This week the question here isn't whats in the shop? Its what isn't in the shop? Its been a bad week for break downs. First Dad's 1680 combine needed a new belt that drives the unloading auger (yes we're still combining corn and probably will be all winter) that wasn't to bad, then dad calls me up one morning and tells me the tractor on the feedwagon won't turn as the differential is locked up. He says it engages and disengages on its own. Haven't had a chance to look at that one yet to see whats going on, solution to that problem was to unhook that tractor and put another one on the feedwagon. Dad calls me again yesterday while running the feedwagon to tell me the pto won't shut off, cable broke. No cable on hand at the dealer. Dealer said he hasn't sold one since 2002. So go take pto cable off of first tractor with locked up differential and reinstall it on tractor on feedwagon. Yes there the same model tractor. Not a real tough job but one I don't care to repeat again. What made it worse was the fact that yesterday was colder than cold and working out in an unheated building. Oh yeah and when Dad called to say the pto wouldn't shut off he also tells me he blew a hydraulic hose on the loader tractor. Two trips to town, a borrowed crows foot, and it was all fixed by 530pm. Ready to go for the next day, Can't wait to see what breaks next.


----------



## IH 1586

Time for a thorough inspection.


----------



## SCtrailrider

Well my JD2030 was doing OK till this weekend, clutch felt like it wasn't holding in high range gears, thought cease I don't use high renge much all would be good in the lower gears, but that isn't the case.. once I figure out how to split it and get new parts I'm going to attempt to change the clutch myself, I'm a one man gang so maybe I can get it fixed before fertilizer time in a month...


----------



## paoutdoorsman

Had one of the 6420's in the shop for a few things, including replacing the serpentine belt tensioner. Decided to pull the fan and the shroud while I was at it and give the cooling stack a deep clean for good measure. Even though I could still see light through the rad before starting, I still flushed for over an hour to get water running clear everywhere. The lower 1/3 behind the battery was the worst, and it's tough to clean well without really getting things out of the way. Something to keep in mind for max cooling and A/C performance with those hot summer days coming.


----------



## carcajou

A late spring project completed today.


----------



## Vol

Sharp!

Regards, Mike


----------



## DSLinc1017

Here is a start of another round bale wagon. Picked up the running gear cheep, tires are in good shape. May need to repack the bearings or replace them once I get in to it. Fabricating some shoulders now to hold the new Oak beams on that are getting milled down the road.









Hope Ya'll are doing well out there!!

Cheers,


----------



## DSLinc1017

Head way was made. Oak 4'x8'x18' are in place bolted and oiled. A few more pictures.


----------



## Vol

What killed all the trees? Couple of months behind. 

Regards, Mike


----------



## DSLinc1017

Vol said:


> What killed all the trees? Couple of months behind.
> 
> Regards, Mike


Ha!,, 
We look at as the natural AC stays on a bit longer up here! The trees are just starting to bud out, it is behind a bit even for Vermont. It's been unusually cold spring hovering around 50, And go figure we are expecting some white stuff with a low tonight of 29, and that's in the valley.


----------



## DSLinc1017

Woke up to several inches of snow this AM........
Progress yesterday at least


----------



## PaMike

This one just came through the shop. 98 orig hours. Headed an hour west to a new home


----------



## DSLinc1017

More progress on the round bale wagon. A few cross bars to weld on tomorrow. Then pack some bearings.


----------



## DSLinc1017

So close to being done. Of course the wheel bearings needed to be replaced!. Might invest in a rattle can blue, just because. Freeing up one last grease fitting and it should be good to go.
Just need the weather to warm up and a good week of dry.

By the way don't MIG weld in the wind,,,,,,,,,,,,,


----------



## Wethay

Looks nice.


----------



## DSLinc1017

Wethay said:


> Looks nice.


Thank you,


----------



## Wethay

What's in my shop? Bicycles. Two kids with three bought cheap at garage sale bikes. School let out so summer bike season came early. The latest purchase needed the crank bearings replaced and adjusted, the front forks turned around, seat adjusted, etc. Unfortunately none of the tires have much for tread depth and blackberry thorns picked up in the off road excursions are keeping me busy. Probably one tire gets patched every three days. I do wonder if new tires would be much of a hindrance to the thorn punctures, but then I also know new tires wouldn't pay off in resale value.


----------



## paoutdoorsman

Sounds like they are putting them to good use Wethay! Good of you to keep them patched up for them!


----------



## danwi

Maybe it all started oil the pedals on my tricycle but when I had to patch tires on my bike thats when it really got going, because dad wouldn't be in a hurry to fix them because they were going flat because we were making skid marks with them.


----------



## mlappin

DSLinc1017 said:


> So close to being done. Of course the wheel bearings needed to be replaced!. Might invest in a rattle can blue, just because. Freeing up one last grease fitting and it should be good to go.
> Just need the weather to warm up and a good week of dry.
> 
> By the way don't MIG weld in the wind,,,,,,,,,,,,,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> B7C1EFF5-BF3E-43F5-80A4-22E89AE1EF44.jpeg


I actually keep a roll of flux core on hand at all times for welding on stuff that won't fit in the shop but it too thin for the buzzbox.


----------



## mlappin

Finished this up and got it out of the shop so I could get the tank in and weld on it. Don't remember exactly what happened but last summer something went funky in the three point linkage and it raised too high and the quick hitch tried to lift the tank right off the frame, needless to say cracked a weld. Filled it with water and found the leak but after flopping the tank over on its top and putting a few pounds of air pressure on it found 6 leaks but only one of them actually leak water, welded em all up and got it remounted. Been waiting for a week for the weather to straighten up so we can start spraying. All the soybeans were planted green as well as a good chunk of the corn, too wet to do anything but spray so gonna get the rest of what's going to corn burnt down and go from there.

New paint on a White 4-175 by Marty Lappin, on Flickr

I ran out of paper and painted the rims anyways, was getting tired of this project. About time I was spraying the last one thought it would have been easy enough to drive a whole 2 1/2 miles to Dollar General and have bought some cheap wrapping paper, live and learn. Sides ought to clean up quick anyways between the cover and corn stalks.


----------



## Ranger518

mlappin said:


> Finished this up and got it out of the shop so I could get the tank in and weld on it. Don't remember exactly what happened but last summer something went funky in the three point linkage and it raised too high and the quick hitch tried to lift the tank right off the frame, needless to say cracked a weld. Filled it with water and found the leak but after flopping the tank over on its top and putting a few pounds of air pressure on it found 6 leaks but only one of them actually leak water, welded em all up and got it remounted. Been waiting for a week for the weather to straighten up so we can start spraying. All the soybeans were planted green as well as a good chunk of the corn, too wet to do anything but spray so gonna get the rest of what's going to corn burnt down and go from there.
> 
> New paint on a White 4-175 by Marty Lappin, on Flickr
> 
> I ran out of paper and painted the rims anyways, was getting tired of this project. About time I was spraying the last one thought it would have been easy enough to drive a whole 2 1/2 miles to Dollar General and have bought some cheap wrapping paper, live and learn. Sides ought to clean up quick anyways between the cover and corn stalks.


Looks good!


----------



## Farmineer95

Had the starter rebuilt and changed park cable in the neighbor's 3020. Gave it a quick polish too, shined up pretty good.
It has a turbo but just seems like a pooch, don't know if fuel pump is messed up or turbo lag or my imagination. Anyone have experience with M&W turbo kits and how they run?


----------



## Ranger518

Had a helper today putting my John Deere 4010 engine back to together.


----------



## Farmerbrown2

Farmineer95 said:


> Had the starter rebuilt and changed park cable in the neighbor's 3020. Gave it a quick polish too, shined up pretty good.
> It has a turbo but just seems like a pooch, don't know if fuel pump is messed up or turbo lag or my imagination. Anyone have experience with M&W turbo kits and how they run?


 I have a 4020 with a M&W turbo, injection pump needs to be set up for a turbo plus I think injection timing must be advanced a couple degrees. Our John Deere dealer worked on ours years ago and didn't tell injection shop there was a turbo on the tractor. When JD dealer put tractor on dyno it only had 76 horsepower then of course they called and wanted to do an engine rebuild. When I asked if they told injection shop about turbo they said no what does that matter. I said it does so they called injection shop sure enough they had to take injection pump out and get it set up properly. Just my experience.


----------



## r82230

Son had a little problem while delivering. Seems a good slope, wet horse do in tight quarters doesn't always work well.  He thinks he have to work rest of hay season for free (he is wrong BTW ). As I told his mother, the first time is a mistake, the second...&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230; different story.

Larry


----------



## Vol

Well it looks like it could be worse. Have you priced the steering yoke yet?

Regards, Mike


----------



## r82230

Vol said:


> Well it looks like it could be worse. Have you priced the steering yoke yet?
> 
> Regards, Mike


Waiting for LIfetime wagon to call me back, texted pictures this morning. He didn't believe me on having a Nause running gear (15 ton). I bought this wagon, shortly after attending NFMS in Louie V, a couple of years ago. The salesman (brother of the guy I'm talking to now), originally sold me a 12 ton Horst running gear, plus another deck only (that I put on a old Johnny running gear I already had). IIRC, you found out the tonnage capacity for me (if I didn't thank you, thanks).

About a month after I ordered, he called me and said my wagon was at a show in Dawg's neck of the woods and some guy want to buy it. Rather than shipping my wagon back north, he would put a 15 ton Nause running gear under the deck and I wouldn't get wagon until first of May. Naturally, I said OK, I won't need it until late May at the best case scenario. Well, it seems he didn't change the invoice.  So present guy wanted pixs and he isn't in the office today (so far).

Larry

PS update, he texted me said he's working on it.

PSS update: doesn't have part on shelf, should have by Monday. if it had been the tongue, a tie rod, he has them, but &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.. Oh, well could have been worse, like July.


----------



## DSLinc1017

r82230 said:


> Son had a little problem while delivering. Seems a good slope, wet horse do in tight quarters doesn't always work well.  He thinks he have to work rest of hay season for free (he is wrong BTW ). As I told his mother, the first time is a mistake, the second...&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230; different story.
> 
> Larry


This is Wall os shame material for sure. 
Could be worse!


----------



## r82230

Got the yoke and installed it, small problem, holes for tie-rod ends were different size.  Called LIfetime Monday morning, Tuesday afternoon had new tie-rod ends.  Got them installed and did a farmerize wheel alignment (baler twine wrapped around rear end/tires, tied to a couple of hay bales in front of wagon). Left the front tires with a shy 1/16th of an inch toe in (measured from rim not tire).

What's everyone else sit their toe-in at?

Larry


----------



## Vol

Depends on the wagon. I have one that I had to set to toe out a smidge to keep it from swimming down the road...an older New Holland. I kept going in and it was getting worse. But most are around 1/8" to 1/4". Tire tread can make a difference too. Of course I just use mostly older gears....I don't have any of those fancy lifetime wagons. You probably have more in one of your wagons than I do six of mine. 

Regards, Mike


----------



## r82230

Now Mike, I still have a couple 'older' wagons. The front ends are so loose that no matter what you do 10 MPH is tops for barely minimizing the snaking down the road. Heck the 120 bu NH gravity wagon on a Coby running gear my Dad bought over 50 years ago for $350, I just put new tires on (costing just over $400, good way to double the value ). at 10 MPH is really pushing your luck. I traded the Amish a couple of old gears while they were building my hay shed. The tongues were so worn that you could move them a foot without turning a wheel, but at their horse drawn speed................

Have to admit nice to have a wagon that I can run the tractor at 25 MPH down the road and have the wagon follow (in a mostly straight line). My other two hay decks, don't get used unless absolutely necessary for this very reason. Plus they have about a 150 bale limit.

Larry


----------



## stack em up

Case 1825 skid loader, my self propelled pitchfork. Hadn’t been run in a couple years so valves were kinda gummed up. It took 45 minutes to pull the head off and clean up the valves, then I spent the next ~ 4 hours trying to find new pushrods as a couple bent when valves stuck. Ended up ordering custom ones from Summit Racing. I literally had to call Japan to get a head gasket for it as it is a Nissan gas engine. The kind man I spoke with informed me it is the same engine as in a Datsun B10 car. $25 valve grind gasket kit on order from Illinois. All for a skid that maybe gets 15 hours a year....


----------



## Vol

I have some older United Farm gears that I can pull 35mph down the road without trouble.....loaded.

Regards, Mike


----------



## r82230

Vol said:


> I have some older United Farm gears that I can pull 35mph down the road without trouble.....loaded.
> 
> Regards, Mike


Good old United Farm Tools, great company, seem to build a lot of great tools, using a lot of 'off the shelf' material/parts (making repairs easier, being replacement parts were easy to find). To bad they got bought out and became.............................................. history.  All of my hay fields were planted with a buddy's UFT no-till drill.

Larry


----------



## Vol

r82230 said:


> All of my hay fields were planted with a buddy's UFT no-till drill.
> 
> Larry


Do you recall the model Larry?

Regards, Mike


----------



## r82230

Vol said:


> Do you recall the model Larry?
> 
> Regards, Mike


UFT 5000, a 15' wide, 7.5" spacing.

Looks something like this,

https://www.tractorhouse.com/listings/farm-equipment/for-sale/192363105/united-farm-tools-5000

except he put a small seed box on the back (he never used, but I did  ). His is sharper on paint job, because it's always inside since he bought it (used). For a couple of years I used the large box to plant alfalfa. With the platform on the back, wasn't to bad to have someone ride, sweeping seed into the holes.

Larry


----------



## Vol

Yeah, I am familiar with those old 5000 hovercrafts.

Regards, Mike


----------



## PaMike

stack em up said:


> Case 1825 skid loader, my self propelled pitchfork. Hadn't been run in a couple years so valves were kinda gummed up. It took 45 minutes to pull the head off and clean up the valves, then I spent the next ~ 4 hours trying to find new pushrods as a couple bent when valves stuck. Ended up ordering custom ones from Summit Racing. I literally had to call Japan to get a head gasket for it as it is a Nissan gas engine. The kind man I spoke with informed me it is the same engine as in a Datsun B10 car. $25 valve grind gasket kit on order from Illinois. All for a skid that maybe gets 15 hours a year....


Where did you get the gasket kit for it? I think I have the same engine in my old Datsun forklift. shes handy as can be.


----------



## stack em up

PaMike said:


> Where did you get the gasket kit for it? I think I have the same engine in my old Datsun forklift. shes handy as can be.


Napa. It's a Nissan A12, same as in a B1000 Datsun.


----------



## CowboyRam

Broke down with the baler, so I pulled the baler in the shop, will kinda, as much of it as I could get in there. At least I was on the concrete. Pulled the pickup head off it; I don't have the tools to take off the gear off so that I can pull the thing apart. Going to take the head down the krone dealer tomorrow. Would like to see it get fixed as soon as possible, I still have 40 acres needs to be baled.


----------



## paoutdoorsman

Hope they can get you parts quickly so you can get back up and going cowboy.


----------



## CowboyRam

paoutdoorsman said:


> Hope they can get you parts quickly so you can get back up and going cowboy.


I decided to just order the parts and do it myself. I took the head over to a neighbor who is a mechanic and had him take off the gears, as I don't have any tools to remove them. I am hoping to have the parts by Thursday. The trick is going to be if I my feeble little brain can remember how to put the dang thing back together. If all goes well maybe I will have it back together by the 4th. Unfortunately that hay has already got rained a couple times, but luckily we have not really got much.


----------



## paoutdoorsman

CowboyRam said:


> I decided to just order the parts and do it myself. I took the head over to a neighbor who is a mechanic and had him take off the gears, as I don't have any tools to remove them. I am hoping to have the parts by Thursday. The trick is going to be if I my feeble little brain can remember how to put the dang thing back together. If all goes well maybe I will have it back together by the 4th. Unfortunately that hay has already got rained a couple times, but luckily we have not really got much.


I'm sure you'll be just fine getting it back together.


----------



## r82230

paoutdoorsman said:


> I'm sure you'll be just fine getting it back together.


And if he is anything like me, should have a part or two left-over (hopefully just washers ).

Larry


----------



## somedevildawg

One thing I like about always having a smart phone around, it always has a smart camera....so I document everything I take apart for future reference as I just don’t trust my ability to stay....well, focused


----------



## somedevildawg

[quote name="CowboyRam" post="995682" timestamp="1593383169"]Broke down with the baler, so I pulled the baler in the shop, will kinda, as much of it as I could get in there. At least I was on the concrete. Pulled the pickup head off it; I don't have the tools to take off the gear off so that I can pull the thing apart. Going to take the head down the krone dealer tomorrow. Would like to see it get fixed as soon as possible, I still have 40 acres needs to be baled.]

Any idea as to what cause such a catastrophic failure?


----------



## CowboyRam

somedevildawg said:


> [quote name="CowboyRam" post="995682" timestamp="1593383169"]Broke down with the baler, so I pulled the baler in the shop, will kinda, as much of it as I could get in there. At least I was on the concrete. Pulled the pickup head off it; I don't have the tools to take off the gear off so that I can pull the thing apart. Going to take the head down the krone dealer tomorrow. Would like to see it get fixed as soon as possible, I still have 40 acres needs to be baled.]
> 
> Any idea as to what cause such a catastrophic failure?


I am not really sure, but I did find the spring part of a pickup tooth. It fill out when I dropped the head down. I am thinking that it got lodged in there.


----------



## Gearclash

Another stalk roller completed. Used an IH Cyclo toolbar this time.


----------



## CowboyRam

Finally, got my baler back together, took us two days. Now I can bale my hay that has been sitting sense Wednesday of last week; the alfalfa is starting to grow thru the windrows. I did pull a bonehead move though, I decided to run it for a bit, started it up, looked back and sparks; the pickup teeth were hitting the concrete as the back of the baler was lower. I could only get part of the baler in the shop. It felt good to have a beer after a job well done.









one of the parts I took off. There was not much of the baring plate.


----------



## mlappin

Baling tractor is in the shop yet, should be done Monday afternoon if the last of my stuff comes in. Had to UPS my harmonic balancer to commiefornia to get it rebuilt, there isn't one to be had in North America. Forgot just how much it sucked hooking and unhooking equipment when you're short on tractors.


----------



## Gearclash

Had a small hydraulic line start leaking under the cab of my MX170. Decided to replace a few other questionable looking lines while I was at it. With the floor and seat out most things on top of the trans are pretty accessible.


----------



## Gearclash

I bought this gem this week. It's a Summit 1973 14 x 40 lathe. Looks like it is in decent shape, but it does need some TLC. Apron feeds don't work for starters. Paid $1200 for it at a consignment auction, motor is 3 ph, but there was an RPC with it.


----------



## r82230

Gearclash said:


> I bought this gem this week. It's a Summit 1973 14 x 40 lathe. Looks like it is in decent shape, but it does need some TLC. Apron feeds don't work for starters. Paid $1200 for it at a consignment auction, motor is 3 ph, but there was an RPC with it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 6948CFE3-4CA5-4A94-AEA3-D9C68BF71051.jpeg


Can be a handy piece of equipment.

Larry


----------



## mlappin

Gearclash said:


> I bought this gem this week. It's a Summit 1973 14 x 40 lathe. Looks like it is in decent shape, but it does need some TLC. Apron feeds don't work for starters. Paid $1200 for it at a consignment auction, motor is 3 ph, but there was an RPC with it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 6948CFE3-4CA5-4A94-AEA3-D9C68BF71051.jpeg


My lathe paid for itself in less than a week. Took maybe a month for the Bridgeport to pay for itself.


----------



## Uphayman

Changing of the guard. Or in this case......33 guards and new sickles. 1000+ hours on the machine. 8,000 acres.


----------



## Vol

Gearclash said:


> I bought this gem this week. It's a Summit 1973 14 x 40 lathe. Looks like it is in decent shape, but it does need some TLC. Apron feeds don't work for starters. Paid $1200 for it at a consignment auction, motor is 3 ph, but there was an RPC with it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 6948CFE3-4CA5-4A94-AEA3-D9C68BF71051.jpeg


About what did it weigh Neil?

Regards, Mike


----------



## Gearclash

Vol said:


> About what did it weigh Neil?
> 
> Regards, Mike


The book that came with it says the net weight is 2850 lbs, the shipping weight is 3650. My loader tractor lifted it comfortably.


----------



## Gearclash

Latest addition to the shop, a wood stove. It began life as a 300 gallon fuel barrel. I cut about 18" out of its length. Added 11 3" tubes in the top to improve heat exchange. A door for wood, a door for ash removal and air control, a stub pipe to attach the chimney, a fire grate and some plate around it to direct the air flow into to fire. Kind of a lost cause to heat this building at this point as it is so far from air right, but it helps. Looks like if the building were insulated this stove would keep it quite comfortable. Building is 40x80 round roof with a peak of 20 feet or so.


----------



## PaMike

Any plans for the lathe? Just general repair and miscellaneous farm projects?


----------



## r82230

Gear,

Any thoughts on putting a little fan/air through those tubes to increase heating capacity?

Larry


----------



## Gearclash

PaMike said:


> Any plans for the lathe? Just general repair and miscellaneous farm projects?


Pretty much. I occasionally do some fabricating from scratch. Bad thing about buying a lathe is then you find out to your dismay how much you should have had one a long time ago.

Lathe does need some work. The box for the feeds is not working. Something in the front of the drives must be out. Main drive clutch linkage doesn't work right, so it stays engaged in forward and I use the main switch as the shutoff. Chuck jaws have a lot of runout, not sure exactly why. There is a lot of backlash in the lead screw for the cross slide, turns out the lead screw nut is very worn. No part available through Summit for this lathe so I will have to do some fabbing with a generic lead screw nut. For now I'm just glad to have a lathe that is usable for the basics.


----------



## Gearclash

r82230 said:


> Gear,
> 
> Any thoughts on putting a little fan/air through those tubes to increase heating capacity?
> 
> Larry


That is one detail that needs to be finished yet. I will put a 90* elbow turned up on one end and convection will pull air through the tube remarkably well.


----------



## slowzuki

Nice find on the lathe, I have a high quality little lathe but only 3.5" centre height and 20" bed too small for most farm repair work. Only 1/4 hp motor too so small light cuts pretty frustrating. Really wish I had grabbed a big colchester I had gone to look at, was stuffed in the back of a shed, would have required a lot of work to extract.


----------



## Gearclash

Some wood stove modifications. After running it for a while and getting a feel for how it behaves, I thought it would benefit from having a blower forcing air through the heat exchanger tubes. On the first stove I built, the tubes moved air by simple convection from having a 90* elbow on one end. I noticed on this stove the lower tubes got so hot with a bigger fire that the tube would glow some. I don't like to see that as that kind of heat can eventually cause permanent distortion. This blower has enough CFM that it almost goes too far extracting heat from the fire and I have to watch it that the flue temp doesn't get pulled down too far.


----------



## mlappin

Not in the shop just yet, but going to pick it up in the morning. Found a MEP004 diesel generator with a Hercules D198 in it. Was 18 degrees when I went to look at it, 20 seconds of preheating and it popped right off. Generator is shot though, they said the windings are are bad according to the local generator guru. I found a remanufactured and recertified Marathon Magnaplus 30KW generator head for around a $1000. Gonna run about $600-700 for a remanufactured automatic service transfer switch and roughly $300 for a Dynagen electronic controller. Gonna build a 10x12 generator shed to put it in then run a line off my wood boiler to heat the block all winter, planning on a pool heat exchanger, should have the benefit of not letting it be able to cold stack if the boiler is keeping engine temps up and might even back feed some heat back into the boiler.

Lumber is stupid right now so not sure what the shed is gonna cost me but looking around $2500 or so in the generator and controls to have an automatic 30KW diesel standby generator.


----------



## paoutdoorsman

I've been working at fixing up a bunch of odds and ends on this 6615 for a customer. Wouldn't start with key, leaking steering lines, loose ball joints & tie rod ends, snapped off spindle/steer knuckle bolt, new headliner, busted radio antenna, single speed blower fan, no lights, etc.. Years of "Just run it" mentality.   :huh: :huh:


----------



## Aaroncboo

I've been working on a overheating polaris sportsman. Putting a new water pump, radiator, and thermostats. In addition to a good bath just to wash it all out with the plastic off. That's more of a fixer project.

The winter project just for fun is a complete teardown and fix of my 1919 IHC model M engine. Kinda making that up as I go along. Not many people around anymore that know how to do anything with them.


----------



## mlappin

Spent over three hours getting the generator down to the actual generator head. I know its a DOD generator, but no wonder they buy $500 toilet seats. Some of this was just plain stupid, can tell it was the lowest bidder that got the contract. I literally took 500 lbs of bullshit off of it to make room to work.


----------



## mlappin

Gearclash said:


> Pretty much. I occasionally do some fabricating from scratch. Bad thing about buying a lathe is then you find out to your dismay how much you should have had one a long time ago.
> 
> Lathe does need some work. The box for the feeds is not working. Something in the front of the drives must be out. Main drive clutch linkage doesn't work right, so it stays engaged in forward and I use the main switch as the shutoff. Chuck jaws have a lot of runout, not sure exactly why. There is a lot of backlash in the lead screw for the cross slide, turns out the lead screw nut is very worn. No part available through Summit for this lathe so I will have to do some fabbing with a generic lead screw nut. For now I'm just glad to have a lathe that is usable for the basics.


I bought an old lathe at an auction, paid for it in less than a week.

I mean old, aint gonna cut threads as that was a flat belt drive as well.

I've since added a 2hp 3450 motor and a VFD to it, thinking about a gear drive and a another VFD to drive the feed.

My Bridgeport is another that paid for itself in short order.


----------



## Gearclash

VP44 swap time in my Dodge Cummins. Quit last fall just short of 200K miles. All indications are that the computer on the pump quit, not the infamous failure brought on by low lift pump pressure.
Going to pull the timing gear cover and tab the killer dowel pin also while I'm in it.


----------



## Bgriffin856

December I finally got around to getting something done that I had wanted to get done that needed done the past few years. We had a warm day and before I fed the hay out so it was easy to get to. Tightened the chain on the NH 162 mow conveyor never measured it but I'm pretty sure it's 45-50ft long. Loosened up the adjuster which was at about half. From the looks of the bolts under the nuts it appears it was never adjusted. This addition was put up in the 70's but I'm not sure when the previous owners put the mow conveyor in. I know we used to fill the mow completely with square bales every year from 92-03 then it was just round bales till 07 when we started putting squares in on top of the round bales. Anyhow used a come along to pull up the slack to get the links out. Then tightened up the adjuster some but not very much so it has alot of adjustment and the chain is good and taught. Run it some yesterday to move some bales so we can get to some other hay in the bank barns mow. It runs so much more quiet and smooth. I should have gotten before and after pics but didn't take the time

It runs all but about 15ft to the end. Fun fact from what I have heard is that before the previous owners would start filling with hay when it was empty every year they would host a barn dance


----------



## IH 1586

Bgriffin856 said:


> December I finally got around to getting something done that I had wanted to get done that needed done the past few years. We had a warm day and before I fed the hay out so it was easy to get to. Tightened the chain on the NH 162 mow conveyor never measured it but I'm pretty sure it's 45-50ft long. Loosened up the adjuster which was at about half. From the looks of the bolts under the nuts it appears it was never adjusted. This addition was put up in the 70's but I'm not sure when the previous owners put the mow conveyor in. I know we used to fill the mow completely with square bales every year from 92-03 then it was just round bales till 07 when we started putting squares in on top of the round bales. Anyhow used a come along to pull up the slack to get the links out. Then tightened up the adjuster some but not very much so it has alot of adjustment and the chain is good and taught. Run it some yesterday to move some bales so we can get to some other hay in the bank barns mow. It runs so much more quiet and smooth. I should have gotten before and after pics but didn't take the time
> 
> It runs all but about 15ft to the end. Fun fact from what I have heard is that before the previous owners would start filling with hay when it was empty every year they would host a barn dance
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> IMG_20200702_193540831.jpg


Trying to remember, is your farm the Loomis farm? I remember them selling out when his son and I in grade school and for years would tell him look at all the fun he is missing and now has nothing to do.


----------



## Bgriffin856

That's who used to own it. I believe the sale was in spring of 92


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## mlappin

This generator project is getting annoying. Being DOD it was overbuilt and cost the taxpayers a small fortune I'm sure for each one. Engine has a SAE #2 housing on it, nobody makes a 30KW head with a #2, can get it with a #3 but then need an adapter plate, Hayes was nuts, talking $1200 for an adapter plate. Then the other issue is the flywheel is a Delco 15.50 which NOBODY offers a drive disc for&#8230;.


----------



## JOR Farm

IH 1586 said:


> Trying to remember, is your farm the Loomis farm? I remember them selling out when his son and I in grade school and for years would tell him look at all the fun he is missing and now has nothing to do.


I know there is probably no connection here but I have to ask about this Loomis farm I had a great friend who was raised in the same area as y'all he joined the air force right out of school then came home to find his mom sold the dairy after his dad passed. He made it down my way about `94 his name was Richard Loomis and I still think he is the smartest yankee I ever met. No offense to anyone on here but he really was that smart. He would be about 55 to 60 now.


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## IH 1586

I'm fairly certain the father was alive when the farm was sold. The sibling age difference would be considerable at approx 20 years. My friends name was Ken Loomis. Interesting as I wouldn't consider it a common last name. Sugar Grove is the area in which these Loomis resided.



JOR Farm said:


> I know there is probably no connection here but I have to ask about this Loomis farm I had a great friend who was raised in the same area as y'all he joined the air force right out of school then came home to find his mom sold the dairy after his dad passed. He made it down my way about `94 his name was Richard Loomis and I still think he is the smartest yankee I ever met. No offense to anyone on here but he really was that smart. He would be about 55 to 60 now.


----------



## JOR Farm

The more I think about it might have been a divorce sell I never heard him say much about his dad mostly grandfather. I do know his sister and mother moved from Pennsylvania to Florida never heard of a brother. He loved them IH tractors and old Oliver's. I will ask the guy that he left his farm to where he was from exactly


----------



## IH 1586

JOR Farm said:


> The more I think about it might have been a divorce sell I never heard him say much about his dad mostly grandfather. I do know his sister and mother moved from Pennsylvania to Florida never heard of a brother. He loved them IH tractors and old Oliver's. I will ask the guy that he left his farm to where he was from exactly


Well, you made me get my yearbook out. Mother was divorced/remarried and is now a Greenman. This happened sometime before we graduated in '98. Still here and owns a portrait studio in Sugar Grove.

Some of your information matches. Will be interesting to learn what you find out.


----------



## JOR Farm

My wife works at the county courthouse she is going to look up death certificate to find age and birthplace they might be related somewhere down the line. I do know one side of his grandparents were German I guess that explains the strange foods he liked.


----------



## CowboyRam

Built myself a welding table.


----------



## Aaroncboo

I always love a good solid table. Mine is a old heavy pallet rack with a 4x8 piece of 3/4 plate steel on top table weighs about 1800 pounds but is pretty much unbreakable. 6000 lb capacity.


----------



## Bgriffin856

Few other projects worth noting from 2020. 
Took the remote valves off the dead 1066 had them rebuilt and put them on the 856 so we can use it on the discbine. Also replaced the spindles, steering arms,wheel bearings and the pivot pin on the front axle.







Even put a new tach in it as well. Old one quit with 9200 something hours Sept 2010 installed the new one June 20th and has 183 hours on it. Probably will easily have 200+ by June 20th. Do the math over those ten years it definitely gets it's use









July fourth weekend had majority of the last of the first cutting down and the water pump went in the 7405. Took about two weeks to get it back in action between hay and chopping oats and everything else going on








Had to change the belts on the one silo unloader luckily it was on like the only cool day we had all summer








Planned for a big day chopping corn made it five loads... Atleast Deere made them easy to replace the feedroll bearing. They do make them greaseable now


----------



## chevytaHOE5674

Currently have the motor out of skid steer. Popped 2 head gaskets so closer inspection found a depression in the block on the edge of the liner. So complete re-sleeve and rebuild it is.















Last week it was rebuilding the A-frame on the snow plow.















Have a loader tractor of mine that needs a clutch. Then a clutch replacement, and an engine rebuild for a customer.


----------



## matador

We just got the Oliver 1800A out of the shop last week. Bought it on BigIron out of Minnesota for a Christmas gift to my father. It arrived and that's when I found out the steering cylinder was shot and needed a rebuild, and the radiator was JB Weld'ed badly. It still needs some little odds and ends done, but it's at least together.

The Deere 530 we bought last fall is in the shop, due to me being a moron who broke it. Hopefully that's not in too long. Once that's done, we'll bring the old New Holland 276 in for some odds and ends if the weather stays nice. For it's age, that baler has been a heck of a nice, trouble-free machine


----------



## broadriverhay

Remodeled the kitchen in my shop. French cleat walls and concrete countertops.


----------



## r82230

broadriverhay said:


> Remodeled the kitchen in my shop. French clear walls and concrete countertops.


What's cooking? I might be right over.  :lol: Now you got me a thinkin', what I could add to my hay shed. Na, I like my better half's cooking, if you could see my size you'd agree.  I was a rack of bones, when we got hitched, now she's got me looking like a 4H steer. 

Larry


----------



## Aaroncboo

My wife put 100 lbs on me since we got together. I may be a prize winning hog. Lol


----------



## mlappin

Worked some more on getting the generator done, finished the Delco 15.50 to SAE #10 adapter that Hayes was talking $1400-1900 for.

A couple of cutouts from the welding shop in town took care of it. Tired old $300 lathe ended up with only .0015 runout when I was done.

I have plenty of swing but chuck is too small, so chucked a drive flange out of a tractor and bolted the smaller 3/8" cutout to that, drilled a 11/16" hole in the center then used a baby boring bar to take it out to exactly .750 which is a tight fit for the generator adapter that was sent with it. Placed the drive discs over the cutout then inserted the adapter and marked then transferred the holes from the drive disc to the plate. Drilled em out to 5/16" and used bolts to fasten spacers in place, welded them then drilled out to 3/8". had to do that as any 3/8" ID spacers I had were over size. Used the completed plate to transfer the holes to the 16" OD plate. Drilled em then tapped to 3/8-16. Before bolting the large disc to the smaller, I faced the spacers to take care of any runout there. Cut the ID out reasonably close with the circle cutter on the plasma cutter.

Turned the OD down to 15.505 then a slight relief cut so the discs centered in the bore rather than by the bolts. Everything has just a snug enough fir it can be pressed together using ones thumbs but don't fall out on their own when carrying the assembly.

30kw generator project by Marty Lappin, on Flickr

30kw generator project by Marty Lappin, on Flickr

30kw generator project by Marty Lappin, on Flickr

30kw generator project by Marty Lappin, on Flickr


----------



## Aaroncboo

I've got my 560 in the garage at the moment. Put a new valve cover on and doesn't seat quite right and I have an issue with the throttle not idling up when it's below freezing. Must have water in the air intake somewhere because when I move the hose to the carb it works alright. That and the right side brake loves to stick and jerk me sideways while driving. Need to get that figured out.


----------



## stack em up

Aaroncboo said:


> the right side brake loves to stick and jerk me sideways while driving. Need to get that figured out.


There are ramps and rollers on the brake assembly, the ramps get little ledges worn into them, causing the rollers to stick. Replace the roller balls, sand the ramps smooth and replace the springs. And replace the brake pads.


----------



## Aaroncboo

Thanks stack. Never thought of the ramps being a problem. I also heard that you may need to cut the thickness down somewhere too? There stupid simple in how they work but you need to get everything right.


----------



## chevytaHOE5674

Started with a clutch split on my TW-5 then noticed the pto shaft splines were wore pretty good. So cab came off, trans split off the rear end as the PTO shaft comes out the back of the trans. What would have been a single day project will take a little longer waiting for parts.


----------



## Farmineer95

Just put an oil pan gasket in a neighbors JD8420. Dunno how many hours are on the thing, but went pretty smoothly, replaced a bunch of suspicious hoses and anything else that, you know, "sinceyawas"....

Gotta say I like the modern cabs, our town plows snow with a 7R330, had the opportunity to run it last snowfall. Lights so bright that most have to be turned off if meeting a car. Can move a lot of stuff, or break a lot of stuff if not paying attention.

Anyway, thinking spring is just a teaser right now, in like a lamb, out like a lion?


----------



## broadriverhay

@chevytaHOE5674, Thats a lot of work.


----------



## mlappin

Generator is coming along slowly but surely.

Gonna get the tractor back in the shop I painted last spring as the power shift is leaking into the transmission, again. Gonna pull the bare minimum to get the transmission cover off then start it and try to figure out what the exact issue is.


----------



## chevytaHOE5674

Wouldn't be too bad if parts were instock and quick to ship. But covid has caused all kinds of supply chain and shipping issues so getting parts in a timely fashion is hard. Need to get my own tractor done so I can get 2 more customer tractors done before spring arrives.


----------



## Farmerbrown2

I have one of my JD 4020’s torn apart thought it needed the power steering rebuilt and load shaft seals. Well found out it needs much more. Hydraulic pump was only putting 1950 psi out so that got rebuilt. Then when we drained trans we found what we thought was brake material so off came wheels and axle housing’s brakes are worn out but not in broken into pieces. So anyway figured out differtial was locked up turns out clutch facing on dif look was coming unglued from disc’s. Plus the oil cooler leaks so I’m building one of those from scratch there is no way I’m giving $1000 for one of those. Thankfully there are used and aftermarket parts for these old tractors.


----------



## broadriverhay

@Farmerbrown2 , there is a way to upgrade the load shaft seals. I did it on a 3010 that has had leaks for years . No more issues.


----------



## mlappin

So tore into the leaker, stupid copper sealing washer was seeping. Hours and hours of work for a little 5/16" washer.

If I had to I could pop the covers back on the housing and carry the generator to the pole and make juice after ghetto wiring it in.

The controller from DeepSea takes care of all Murphy functions including over/under voltage, over current, over/under frequency and controls the auto transfer switch so the Generac module can leave.


----------



## broadriverhay

Replaced haydog springs and bumpers on my NH BC5070. I used Mike10’s spring compressor design. It worked great . Total repair time about 2 hours. Actually a little faster than I expected. Also replaced the drive belt for the pickup. That was a good choice since i discovered it was cracked after removing it. Thanks Mike10 for the great tip on replacing the springs.


----------



## Gearclash

The latest addition to my shop. A Cincinnati Toolmaster 1D.
[attachment by=88184:562C66FF-005A-4493-881C-8750A5D8192D.jpeg]


----------



## paoutdoorsman

Nice addition Gear.


----------



## chevytaHOE5674

Was getting projects knocked off the list before hay season begins until I got a call to pull out a dump truck yesterday evening. Drove back home and noticed a puddle of oil leaking out from a front planetary. Bushing and seal on the axle shaft are shot, hub seal will get replaced, both the races on the wheel bearings are pitted. Wouldn't be a bad job but pulling the king pins out isn't fun.


----------



## Gearclash

Good thing you caught it before the damage was worse. I've been into both my MFD axles and it seems that new seals/bushings/bearings is routine maintenance on them. On one hub the bearings failed and trashed the entire hub.


----------



## chevytaHOE5674

I have a couple of older Fords with ZF front axles with a lot of hours and I've never been into those axles. This NH 7050 has 3800 hours and judging by what I see inside this is the 2nd time its been apart.


----------



## Gearclash

I was wondering if that was a fairly recent CNH product. The MFD axles on the CIH Maxxum and Puma are not known for durability or longevity. I would assume the blue counterparts are the same.


----------



## RockyHill

Our English Shepherd, Bree, watching Jeff replace steering cylinder on 2955.


----------



## Aaroncboo

A shop is not a shop without a huge variety of wood blocks. Guess we never outgrew those toys. Lol


----------



## chevytaHOE5674

I run an older case 8312 discbine which I rebuilt just about everything on over the last few years so the mower is as good as new. But I hated the tongue with the heavy expensive double CV driveshaft. 

A NH 1431 2pt swivel tongue came up for sale close by. So in the middle of hay season I grafted the 1431 tongue to my 8312. Main pin is the same diameter so it slide right on
The rear plate that is the cylinder mount and also the pivot stops had to be modified. About 20 sleepless hours later I was back up and running. The frame of the 8312 wasn't modified so the original tongue will go back on in 45 minutes if desired. Only thing left to do is drill a hole for the roading pin.

Laid down a few hundred acres with it. And I'm not sure how I managed with the old tongue. The ability to turn and pay no attention to how sharp of angle is wonderful. The short PTO shaft with standard U-joints is awesome.


----------



## broadriverhay

Wow , looks to be no activity here for quite some time. I know I’m not the only one working. I’ve been building some grapples for friends.


----------



## Aaroncboo

Damn... You do some nice work. All I've been up to its rebuilding a farmall 560 carb and have a atv giving me no spark... Doing stuff in the house getting ready for the baby is taking most of my time this winter.


----------



## broadriverhay

I’m building an 8 bale too.


----------



## broadriverhay

Aaroncboo said:


> Damn... You do some nice work. All I've been up to its rebuilding a farmall 560 carb and have a atv giving me no spark... Doing stuff in the house getting ready for the baby is taking most of my time this winter.


Thanks.


----------



## broadriverhay

A couple more pictures.


----------



## Dixiemist

Those are nice wish I had that drop jack stand on mine. it would make hooking up so much easier.


----------



## Gearclash

NH 560 take up arm spring link repair. Pictures tell the story! Last picture here is what happens to the lower spring mount when a fully stretched spring slams into it after the link lets go.


----------



## broadriverhay

Got the 8 bale painted today. Ready for final assembly.


----------



## Aaroncboo

Is that a 3 point? Looks different from the other 2.


----------



## broadriverhay

Yes. Cat1 & 2


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## broadriverhay

I’ve been working on a Massey 1840 , mostly repairing the augers and supporting brackets. Does anyone know the bearing clearances at the 2 adjustable bearings at the top front ?


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## ACDII

Brought my new Kubota L4060HSCT-LE in to put lights and mirrors on. The Limited Edition is a lower priced version of the L60 series, has 4 models, L3560 and L4060 Open station and cab. It lacks work lights and switches, which are front standard, rear optional, no cruise control switch, no pto switch under the seat, and no mirrors. Saves about $4,000, the light switches, cruise control and mirrors cost just under $500, and I put my own lights on, the stock lights are $107 each, I spent $80 for two light sets and water tight connectors. 

For brackets I found laying in a pile of scraps, the hold down clips that my laser was shipped with. Perfect fit and galvanized. I used Duestch connectors to plug them in with.

















Rear lights were a set I bought for my B2410 that I didn't use, will see how they work out for now. If I don't like them I can get another set like I have up front.


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## sea2summit

broadriverhay said:


> Wow , looks to be no activity here for quite some time. I know I’m not the only one working. I’ve been building some grapples for friends.
> View attachment 91419


Wouldn't happen to have a cut sheet and parts list you'd want to share do you? I need to build one sooner that later.


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## broadriverhay

No , but I can help you with that.


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## broadriverhay

When I was building them , I had the list committed to memory.


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## chevytaHOE5674

Haven't posted in a while. Been running junk thru the shop as fast as possible to get all the project of both my own and customers before spring arrives.

Skid steer pin boss was cracked out and previously repaired poorly. So it got fixed as "properly" as possible.



































Wheel bearings in another SS.


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## chevytaHOE5674

Ford 8830 front crank seal, oil pan gasket, and oil cooler o-ring replacement turned into a front bolster replacement when it turned out to be cracked and broke around 2 of the 6 mounting bolts.

































Bought a second hay grapple bucket with some unknown quick attach on it. Removed it all and converted it to skid steer quick attach to it'll fit everything I own.


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## broadriverhay

That’s some work right there!!!


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## chevytaHOE5674

Been staying busy for sure. Have to finish up the 8830 job, then a NH T7050 that needs a brake master and accumulator, discbine gearbox rebuild, build a new sweep tub for cattle, and get all the pre hay season servicing done in the next 1-2 months before spring arrives and things get busy outside.


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## broadriverhay

You must be a young man !!
I stay busy too but I’m not as young as I wish I was . Haha!!


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## CowboyRam

Working on the old Farmhand manure spreader replacing the driveshaft. Just need a machinist to cut in the keyway into the new shaft.


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## broadriverhay

I could do it but I’m a little too far away. SC is a long ways from you!!


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## Aaroncboo

Been building a dolly wheel for one one my hay rakes. Cost nothing but time so far. Maybe a can of paint just to snazzy it up a little bit. Need to weld a bushing in where the bolt goes thru for more rigidity. My main goal is to put a telescoping pipe on the back of the second rake I have to be able to pull two at the same time. I have a 3in OD 3/16 wall x 8ft pipe that I'm wondering if it's heavy enough to be used for either the inner or outer pipe. Any thoughts? Just figured I had the pipe but don't want to do all the work just to have it bend.


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## IH 1586

I really need to get working in my shop. Been spending lots of time cutting back over 20 years of woods growth encroaching in to fields we have gotten back.


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## JOR Farm

Got tired of letting the header up manually on my 4590 hesston, agco wanted $750 for the same hydraulic lift kit I bought 4 years ago for $300 and put on my 1835. It's not as pretty but I had everything but 2 little galvanized fittings laying around so you could say it just cost me half a days work. Which ain't worth much since it's to wet to walk across the yard.


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## CowboyRam

I put a cake feeder on the old 94 chevy, and ex Forest Service truck.


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## IH 1586

Farmineer95 said:


> Nice looking weld. Did you make up some new bushings?


Sorry I missed this 3 years ago. Not my welding. Have a welder/fab guy do all my precision work. If I recall correctly he drilled out oblong hole best he could and put in bushings.


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## IH 1586

Shift cover leaking oil on 2355


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## seventyfourci

broadriverhay said:


> No , but I can help you with that.


I would like to have that list also if it is not a problem.


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## Gearclash

I got this horizontal boring mill in the shop last week. It is a Pfeifer with a 75mm quill. Still checking it over and cleaning it up. Also waiting for the concrete we replaced in the shop to cure for the remainder of 30 days before setting this mill on it. Local tool dealer had it for a long time and was wanting to get it sold. It was a hard sell as it had an odd taper in the quill. 8 ton machine. The old Galion lifted it off the truck and set it down but that’s all it wanted.


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## Wethay

That is a bigger mill than most. Any idea of why the unusual taper?


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## Gearclash

Its small in the world of horizontal boring mills. 75mm (3”) is about as small as they go, and this one only weighs 8 tons. A 100mm TOS (4”) is more like 15 tons. A good old Giddings and Lewis 4” can weigh closer to 25 tons. 4” is considerably more common than 3”, even 5” is more common than 3” from what I’ve seen. A 5” is a real monster. And they go bigger yet.

I’m not sure what the deal is with the odd taper. Most of these machine are either Morse or some variant of 40 or 50 taper. Unless I learn some real earth shaking news on it soon to the effect that I can find exact tool holders to fit, I am going to rework what is there to work with the largest quick change system that was sold by SPI, Nikken and Yuasa. It is a 45 taper and the taper, drive tabs , and retainment method is very close to what this mill has.


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## ACDII

I have always wondered why mills and such are painted grey, seems like some sort of standard in heavy machinery industry. At least the Strippet Turret punch presses I worked on had racing stripes. I just finished up replacing the steering parts and ball joints on my 2012 F350 and now that the hay has been cut, I found a fabricator up north of me who might be able to make a new locking plate for my JD 1209 MoCo. I need to get the busted one cut off, so thats next in my shop, then the bed on the F350 has to come off, be flipped over and new crossmembers welded on as well as a few holes patched where they rusted through


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