# Starting another construction project. Pretty interesting.



## JD3430

This time it's a 56'x 26' 3 car garage with a 1st floor entrance hall and a in law living quarters above. It will have an elevator to 2nd floor. 
First picture is previous little 20x20 garage ready for razing. 
2nd is sawcut in driveway for front footing trench.
3rd-6th is today getting the footings poured. Done poured 19 yards today. My back is hurtin.

Next week is 3 courses of 16" block and 2 courses of 8" block. All hung over the #4 stickers you see. All block cells filled solid with grout.


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## deadmoose

Ford musta got scared when it saw work was coming!

Chevy wasn't scared though...


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## deadmoose

Serious note, that garage to be razed looks awfully solid. Too bad.

I imagine they have way more $$$ than place to put up the new garage though.


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## JD3430

The existing garage was ready to collapse. It was poorly built, but kinda cute.


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## somedevildawg

deadmoose said:


> Ford musta got scared when it saw work was coming!
> Chevy wasn't scared though...


Good try moose but the ready mix truck wanted to get a lil farther to the right but that Chevy had a fuel pump issue 

I noticed that they had some sort of cupola, a new one in the works?


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## deadmoose

JD3430 said:


> The existing garage was ready to collapse. It was poorly built, but kinda cute.


Man, 20 years ago my shed was ready to collapse by those standards. I will keep it for at least a few more years tho.


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## carcajou

If you are going to fill the blocks with grout anyway, why not just pour a concrete pony wall? I have not seen blocks used round here in 20 years.


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## JD3430

carcajou said:


> If you are going to fill the blocks with grout anyway, why not just pour a concrete pony wall? I have not seen blocks used round here in 20 years.


Cheaper 
Block was $4,000 less. Block is also more "predictable" compared to the inconsistencies you get with poured concrete walls. Block required no horizontal reinforcement while concrete did. 
I've done both for years.


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## JD3430

deadmoose said:


> Man, 20 years ago my shed was ready to collapse by those standards. I will keep it for at least a few more years tho.


Sill plates were rotted. Foundation was backfilled way too high. Customer bought property with the little salt box garage. Can barely fit a Mini Cooper in it. Replacing it with the Taj Mahal. Or as we call it, the "Garage Mahal"


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## PaMike

JD3430 said:


> Cheaper
> Block was $4,000 less. Block is also more "predictable" compared to the inconsistencies you get with poured concrete walls. Block required no horizontal reinforcement while concrete did.
> I've done both for years.


When I had my building built last year contractor told me block is still cheaper than poured walls UNLESS you are holding back a bunch of dirt. Then, all the rebar, filling of block etc that you have to do to a block wall is more expensive than poured walls..


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## JD3430

PaMike said:


> When I had my building built last year contractor told me block is still cheaper than poured walls UNLESS you are holding back a bunch of dirt. Then, all the rebar, filling of block etc that you have to do to a block wall is more expensive than poured walls..


Poured walls with basement always require rebar.


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## PaMike

JD3430 said:


> Poured walls with basement always require rebar.


Yes, sorry. We were talking slab construction and comparison of footer and block to grade vs poured concrete.


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## endrow

Nice Job. Take an extra sweat shirt tomorrow. Brutally cold and windy here all day and into nite froze my butt at chore time pm . Is it cold down there.? Is the horizontal reinforcement the rebar? You mean like a run of 5/8 rebar ,foot and a half from bottom and same along top.


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## JD3430

endrow said:


> Nice Job. Take an extra sweat shirt tomorrow. Brutally cold and windy here all day and into nite froze my butt at chore time pm . Is it cold down there.? Is the horizontal reinforcement the rebar? You mean like a run of 5/8 rebar ,foot and a half from bottom and same along top.


It's been cold here since last night. Winds about 45mph here. Trees down. Wicked cold. Love the 90+ heat of the summer. Getting up in the cold at 6am to do farm or construction work will make a man out of you.

Horizontal reinforcement is #4 rebar run in the footings. We run 3 the entire footing. The footings are 2'-4" wide and 12" thick 3500psi concrete. Since we used block, no horizontal is required in the walls. Just footings. But as you can see, there's vertical rebar in the block.


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## JD3430

One of my walls as of yesterday. These are the 16" block. 3 courses grouted solid. Next is 3 courses of 8" grouted solid. Stickers are a PITA to work around. 25* at sunrise. I'm definitely feeling it. Not 25 yrs old anymore. What I'd give for 90*. Miss the heat.


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## PaMike

Do you do the block work yourself or sub it out? Is the 16" block required by code or just something you decided to do? I dont know if I have ever seen 16" block here.


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## JD3430

Sometimes I do it myself, sometimes my guys do it. Depends on how many *other miracles* I have to perform that week 

16" block goes up 3 layers, then 8" block is on top. Forms an inside ledge for concrete slab to rest on, like a shelf.


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## PaMike

Thats quality..not too many people do that here. My house, and our last building addition at work were performed by lowest bidder concrete and masonry contractors...talk about shitty work...I hate concrete pads that arent FLAT


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## JD3430

PaMike said:


> Thats quality..not too many people do that here. My house, and our last building addition at work were performed by lowest bidder concrete and masonry contractors...talk about shitty work...I hate concrete pads that arent FLAT


I don't get to call the shots. The architect does. 
I've gotten plans where it's all 8" block with no rebar and no grout.


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## PaMike

On my 10 year old house the concrete in the garage and basement is that bad I have to shim 12" deep shelving to keep the top against the wall. What a pain...Its a shame some people don't take more pride in their work...

Looks like you have the beginnings of a real nice building. The architect knows a trick or two on that job.


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## JD3430

So things are moving along fairly well. We got the first floor walls framed on Tuesday-Wednesday and the steel set into place this morning.


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## deadmoose

JD3430 said:


> So things are moving along fairly well. We got the first floor walls framed on Tuesday-Wednesday and the steel set into place this morning.


Sharp looking truck just behind the telehandler.


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## JD3430

deadmoose said:


> Sharp looking truck just behind the telehandler.


Yes it's one of my helpers 
It's a '06 2500 Cummins with a 6 speed. It's a regular cab with a utility body.


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## JD3430

Back wall: 5/8" plywood wall sheathing. Lapped over the 2nd floor box joist, of course.
Front wall: dormer walls being framed


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## JD3430

So here we are in week 3 of framing. Have had our share of rain. We have roof rafters and 5/8" roof sheathing on. Starting the first of 8 narrow line dormers.

Sorry the pictures are sideways. I have no idea why. Been posting pictures for 10 years and now I can't post anything without it being sideways.


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## PaMike

Man, that's a garage!! You have help framing it? Or just you?

I see the gappower sticker, no one closer to rent from? That's a fair distance from you isn't it? 45 minutes?


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## JD3430

PaMike said:


> Man, that's a garage!! You have help framing it? Or just you?
> 
> I see the gappower sticker, no one closer to rent from? That's a fair distance from you isn't it? 45 minutes?


There's closer rentals, but they're more expensive. Gap Power pretty popular around here. 
I have 2 helpers.


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## PaMike

I always wondered how contractors figured in rental equipment. The rental isn't cheap, but often you see the equipment sitting on a job site unused for days/week at a time. Do you just figure you will need the lift for the entire project(say 3 months) and build that rental cost into your quote? I guess its a lot of money to have sitting around ,but when you need it you need it...


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## JD3430

We've been using it for 3 weeks straight.

I rented it for a month. 
Saves me 1-2 laborers, no hangovers, no "that's what SHE said" every 5 minutes, no whining.
I used to own one. Then Obama got elected.


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## PaMike

I just watched the guys across the street use one to push the wall panel truck out of the mud...Lock the brakes and extend the boom...worked pretty slick..


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## JD3430

I just used the forks and boom to un-stick us from the mud


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## mlappin

I don't own a small trencher, if I need to trench a line in for a boiler I rent it Friday afternoon and take it back Monday. If it needs dug in I pay Dad by the foot to bring the mini excavator.


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## JD3430

More sideways pictures for your confusion....I mean enjoyment. Getting windows in and siding on. 
Don't underestimate the difficulty of applying caulk when it's 11 degrees out!
Sorry for the pics problem. Only happens on haytalk since I bought my iPhone 7!!


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## PaMike

Whats the siding? Something in sheet form? Thats not individual boards is it?


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## JD3430

PaMike said:


> Whats the siding? Something in sheet form? Thats not individual boards is it?


Yes it is. 
That's real board and batten siding. 
Same thing I use to build barns for customers.


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## PaMike

Now that you say it, I see it clearly... What type of wood?


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## deadmoose

JD3430 said:


> More sideways pictures for your confusion....I mean enjoyment. Getting windows in and siding on.
> Don't underestimate the difficulty of applying caulk when it's 11 degrees out!
> Sorry for the pics problem. Only happens on haytalk since I bought my iPhone 7!!


When you take a pic, rotate your phone left, not right. Will fix sideways issue.


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## JD3430

deadmoose said:


> When you take a pic, rotate your phone left, not right. Will fix sideways issue.


I'm taking the pictures with phone vertical. It's only happening with haytalk. Other websites no issues. Pictures are fine.


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## JD3430

PaMike said:


> Now that you say it, I see it clearly... What type of wood?


It's called EASTERN Pine, which probably means a few hay talk members will NEVER use it. Lol damn that's funny- you have to admit. Maybe the boards are less friendly than Great Plains pine. Lol. 
But seriously, we take EASTERN pine boards and treat them with paintable clear wood preservative on all surfaces. Then I apply Zinsser or Kilz oil based shellac primer to all surfaces. Then I apply 1 coat of finish paint. All cuts have clear wood finish reapplied and are reprimered. Then boards are installed. Then it's all caulked, nail holes filled and painted again after siding is installed. East rules.
Any other questions, just ask. I like sharing my techniques


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## PaMike

JD3430 said:


> It's called EASTERN Pine, which probably means a few hay talk members will NEVER use it. Lol damn that's funny- you have to admit. Maybe the boards are less friendly than Great Plains pine. Lol.
> But seriously, we take EASTERN pine boards and treat them with paintable clear wood preservative on all surfaces. Then I apply Zinsser or Kilz oil based shellac primer to all surfaces. Then I apply 1 coat of finish paint. All cuts have clear wood finish reapplied and are reprimered. Then boards are installed.
> Any other questions, just ask. I like sharing my techniques


I had thought about doing wood last year one the building I built. I didn't want the maintenance and everyone says that the "new wood" doesn't last like the old stuff...at the end of the day the barn was built on a piece of property not by my house, so I didn't want to spend the extra money to make it look top end...so metal siding it was...

I assume treating all the wood and cut surfaces really makes it last longer? A time consuming pain probably though...


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## JD3430

PaMike said:


> I had thought about doing wood last year one the building I built. I didn't want the maintenance and everyone says that the "new wood" doesn't last like the old stuff...at the end of the day the barn was built on a piece of property not by my house, so I didn't want to spend the extra money to make it look top end...so metal siding it was...
> I assume treating all the wood and cut surfaces really makes it last longer? A time consuming pain probably though...


Yes it was (is). I figure the exterior painting & preparation alone worth over $10,000. We're still sealing & painting when temps allow it.
I will have to throw away entire wardrobes of work clothes with all the primer we got on them. Gotta make a mess to make a masterpiece


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## FarmerCline

JD3430 said:


> It's called EASTERN Pine, which probably means a few hay talk members will NEVER use it. Lol damn that's funny- you have to admit. Maybe the boards are less friendly than Great Plains pine. Lol.
> But seriously, we take EASTERN pine boards and treat them with paintable clear wood preservative on all surfaces. Then I apply Zinsser or Kilz oil based shellac primer to all surfaces. Then I apply 1 coat of finish paint. All cuts have clear wood finish reapplied and are reprimered. Then boards are installed. Then it's all caulked, nail holes filled and painted again after siding is installed. East rules.
> Any other questions, just ask. I like sharing my techniques


 I started not to reply to this and probably should not have but I'm getting sick and tired that you continually will bring up something from a different and completely unrelated thread just to bait and poke at certain other members......example the whole cow/cattle thing that you could never let go.....and now this. Let it go man......this isn't elementary school. BTW, it is not damn funny......it is damn stupid. No one was directing anything at you in the other thread when you took it the wrong way. Anyway, I'm sure you will reply to this as you always have to have the last word but I'm not going to argue with you.....just stating the facts.


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## mlappin

JD3430 said:


> Yes it was (is). I figure the exterior painting & preparation alone worth over $10,000. We're still sealing & painting when temps allow it.
> I will have to throw away entire wardrobes of work clothes with all the primer we got on them. Gotta make a mess to make a masterpiece


Might have been anal on my part, but redid the bedroom in all oak including the crown moulding, stained it all first, then after the cuts were made stained the cuts as well, seem to remember somewhere the expansion and contraction is more controlled if all surfaces are finished the same. I may not be the fastest, but when I do a project I like to do it once and done.


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## JD3430

mlappin said:


> Might have been anal on my part, but redid the bedroom in all oak including the crown moulding, stained it all first, then after the cuts were made stained the cuts as well, seem to remember somewhere the expansion and contraction is more controlled if all surfaces are finished the same. I may not be the fastest, but when I do a project I like to do it once and done.


That's correct. Plus if you stain the tips and you do get contraction of your pieces, you wont see a "white" tip. The gap will look darker. Of course "45-ing" the joints helps, too.


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## mlappin

JD3430 said:


> That's correct. Plus if you stain the tips and you do get contraction of your pieces, you wont see a "white" tip. The gap will look darker. Of course "45-ing" the joints helps, too.


Yep, did that as well, would have liked pieces long enough to avoid any joints along the walls, but I still haven't hit the lottery.


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## JD3430

mlappin said:


> Yep, did that as well, would have liked pieces long enough to avoid any joints along the walls, but I still haven't hit the lottery.


Heres another trick I always do with crown. 45* the "covered" piece. Now 46* the "cover" piece. You'll have a tighter fit at the all critical edge of the joint.

Also apply good, paintable wood glue if its painted crown.


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## mlappin

No paint on the new trim, I'm not just a fan of painted trim, especially if it's quality wood.


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## JD3430

First of 8 dormers, not complete yet. But it's a start.
Mud is horrendous. 'Specially when you have to drive through it sideways.


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## JD3430

Double


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## JD3430

Couple more sideways shots. 
First - Finishing up dormers. Pretty difficult little buggers. Cheek walls are very thin, giving them the "old house" look.
Second- full front 
Mechanicals start tomorrow!


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## JD3430

2 of the remaining Concrete floor slabs going in this morning. We're going with 5" 
4% air entrainment and a little accelerator so we can get home at a reasonable time.
The walls are insulated. I "pre hung" a 12" strip of drywall from the back ceiling so 
when I do the plumbing drain line I won't have to finish around 20 ceiling hangers.


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## stack em up

That's a quite a garage! Whenever people put new roofs on houses around here, they have been removing dormers entirely, unless it's part of actual living space. Don't ask me why.


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## paoutdoorsman

Quite the garage project JD. Just a daily use garage, or does the owner have a couple classic muscle cars to pull in those bays when it's all finished?


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## JD3430

paoutdoorsman said:


> Quite the garage project JD. Just a daily use garage, or does the owner have a couple classic muscle cars to pull in those bays when it's all finished?


Was wondering when someone would ask!!!

The customer is not a car collector at all! Isnt that surprising? The 3 garage bays are for his car, his wifes car and his parents car. The "man door" opening you see on the first floor goes into a downstairs entrance with a flagstone floor, a big storage closet and the staircase up to the 2nd floor.

If you drive into the garage bay next to the man door area, theres an elevator to the 2nd floor.

The upstairs is going to be an 1100SF efficiency "apartment" for his parents. Its actually very spacious. Has a huge living room, small kitchen, a bedroom with walk-in closet and a very nice bathroom. An upstairs entry hall with 2 good size closets.

Lots of built-in cabinetry.


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## r82230

JD3430 said:


> The upstairs is going to be an 1100SF efficiency "apartment" for his parents. Its actually very spacious. Has a huge living room, small kitchen, a bedroom with walk-in closet and a very nice bathroom. An upstairs entry hall with 2 good size closets.


Called a 'mother-in-law' suite in my neck of the woods. 

Larry


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