# New Holland 499 Drawbar Extension, Stub Guards, Aftermarket Parts



## RedNeckRacin (Sep 2, 2011)

Hi all, Long time lurker first time poster (I think). Heading into my second season with the 499 and looking for some tips. Thanks for the help in advance.

When swinging my pivot tongue new holland 499 haybine there is a lot of slop in the drawbar of the tractors that I use as well as the hitch pin. Some of this slop is necessary to get some articulation in the hitch connection. Looking for a way to make my turns faster with less stress on the drawbars, I was looking on the NH parts page and came across a drawbar hitch extension with a pivot ball in the end. Think lower draft link mounted horizontally. I just went and priced a drawbar hitch extension for my nh 499 haybine today. It is a piece of flat stock that uses a bolt to locate it on the drawbar and a cap that bolts farther back to add support. On the other end, a pivot ball allows a solid bolt to be mounted in the tongue of the haybine without any slop taking place in the pivot ball.
Anyways, I was all for it until I got the quote from my local blood thirsty dealer. Around $220?UCH! I am pretty sure I can live without it or attempt to make my own. Anybody have any experience using the drawbar extension?

Also, Any tips or tricks to adjusting stub guards? I priced out .010" shims from NH and they wanted $3.25 a piece!!! I don't know that I need them, but there is supposed to be approximately .005" gap between the knife and the hold down/stub guard and I figured having a handful of them would be useful to get everything trued up.

Is there any aftermarket places for parts that are pretty decent? I have been eyeing up the parts at soupparts.com and they seem reasonable. I think it was around $160 a piece for an entire sickle with knives. (A 499 has two sickles)


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## 8350HiTech (Jul 26, 2013)

Our old haybine had the drawbar extension. Would have hated to be without it. If you're going to build one, though, I'd pattern it after a newer one that slips around the drawbar and not just on top. More complicated to make but, in my opinion, worth it.


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## slowzuki (Mar 8, 2011)

They come with a lot of balers and mowers, the local dealers sell some extras every so often. I missed out on a spare for my JD348 baler last year.


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## Colby (Mar 5, 2012)

We had one on our 1475 haybine. Like said I wouldn't want to run it without. It clamped on the draw bar with 2 u bolts and a pin that went through the draw bar. 
I had posted the picture before for someone else I believe


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## 8350HiTech (Jul 26, 2013)

Where are you located, *******? You might get one in a salvage yard (or from someone like me who apparently kept their drawbar extension for no reason).


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## mlappin (Jun 25, 2009)

I was told when I bought my 499 that using the extension was a must or it could cause damage to the tractor PTO stub.


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## askinner (Nov 15, 2010)

mlappin said:


> I was told when I bought my 499 that using the extension was a must or it could cause damage to the tractor PTO stub.


Same here. I have ran mine once without it in a hurry, never again, it hammers the hell out of the driveline. If you don't get the length right from the drawbar pin to the pto shaft on your tractor, I think you run a real risk of the shaft either coming apart, or it being too long and pushing something where it shouldn't be. You'll find also it's to stop you hitting the drawbar with the rear tires.


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## NDVA HAYMAN (Nov 24, 2009)

Redneckracin, Welcome to Haytalk. Mike


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## Bgriffin856 (Nov 13, 2013)

Hate to be without the hitch extension on our 499. It would make for some tight turning that hitch really adds some distance between tractor and haybine. That 220 might be money well spent


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## RedNeckRacin (Sep 2, 2011)

Thanks for the replies all I have been busy with work lately. I couldn't believe they wanted almost $300 for a hitch but after looking at that pic that was posted (THANKS!) i see why its so pricey. I am pretty sure that I can builld one though. I got a PM with an offer to sell one. I'm located in Western PA.

I don't think the pto spacing is an issue with the hydraulic pump but I wasn't overly impressed with the turning ability the first year I used it (last year). I was always swinging the machine out of the way of the tractor to be able to turn as tight as I wanted to and that was really jarring the tractor around doing it. (5083E)

Any ideas on how to take the slop out of the drawbar on the tractor? I thought about making some wedges that clamp in beside it or something but I'd like to not have to beat them out with a sledgehammer!

Again thanks for all the thoughts fellas.


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## 8350HiTech (Jul 26, 2013)

If your drawbar is located with a pin/bolt on both sides and is sloppy, try a bushing around each pin to snug it up.


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## RedNeckRacin (Sep 2, 2011)

8350, its the center/ left offset/right offset style. No bolts around it. There is only a single pin directly below the pto shaft that holds the drawbar in place. The center hole has around a 1/4" of clearance above and to the side of the drawbar.


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## mlappin (Jun 25, 2009)

I'll try to post a picture of what I use to clamp the drawbar in place. Neighbor has literally the same brand tractors I do, he's always breaking drawbar assembles, I've never broke one but mine are bolted in place to take the slop out. Also eliminates a lot of the bouncing around the fertilizer spreader does when it getting towards empty.


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## mlappin (Jun 25, 2009)

I simply removed the OEM roller assembly and used half inch plate to clamp the drawbar to the carrier. Have never broke a assembly while the neighbor breaks em where the drawbar support welds to the side plates that bolt to the transmission housing. The neighbor also doesn't have the bolt in cross piece above the hitch.


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