# Soil Surface Residue.



## Vol (Jul 5, 2009)

The most important factor for profits according to Illinois researchers. DTN.

Regards, Mike

https://www.dtnpf.com/agriculture/web/ag/news/crops/article/2018/03/02/get-roots-boost-profits


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## rjmoses (Apr 4, 2010)

I seriously question that continuous no-till and strip till are beneficial in the long run. I'm of the opinion that the ground needs to be turned over periodically. But, being on HEL, I get penalized by the FSA/NRCS if I do.

Ralph.


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## hillside hay (Feb 4, 2013)

All depends on the soil types. Lime must be incorporated at least 1 of 5 years. Pretty hard to do that in no till. I've been flirting with the idea of high prilled lime 2" to the side and below the seed. Haven't done it. Regarding residue; I have seen two to three weeks lag planting into heavy residue.


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## endrow (Dec 15, 2011)

hillside hay said:


> All depends on the soil types. Lime must be incorporated at least 1 of 5 years. Pretty hard to do that in no till. I've been flirting with the idea of high prilled lime 2" to the side and below the seed. Haven't done it. Regarding residue; I have seen two to three weeks lag planting into heavy residue.


 we are in continuous no-till and I would agree with you, if the residue is not managed properly it can create a lag we have been there and done that. In our Shale ground I wouldn't want to give up any residue it's worth its weight in gold but must be managed properly. When we plant with a drill or a planter we expect the planter to make a perfect seed big and properly place the seed in it. Long gone are the days you can just run a planter through the field with half the seed bounced on the top and hope a good rain will come along and Save the Day


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## r82230 (Mar 1, 2016)

hillside hay said:


> All depends on the soil types. Lime must be incorporated at least 1 of 5 years. Pretty hard to do that in no till. I've been flirting with the idea of high prilled lime 2" to the side and below the seed. Haven't done it. Regarding residue; I have seen two to three weeks lag planting into heavy residue.


My area must be different, my hay fields have seen nothing but no-till drills (and hay equipment) for 25+ years. The only way my lime gets incorporated is with the no-till drill every 5-10 years. I soil test, add lime and/or fertilizer if needed. Or apply lime the fall before my late summer seeding, naturally based off soil test (I fertilize just before seeding). Soil test again (usually 2 years later, after seeding) and lime has worked. Usually need to lime every 2-5 years, according to soil test results, depending upon how much (and type of) commercial fertilizer has been spread. And more recently, became more educated about the differences in quality of lime, thanks to Vincent. See pinned post and YouTube video for details.

YMMV

Larry


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## hillside hay (Feb 4, 2013)

Yeah it's different for sure. 25 mi East 50 miles south 70 miles west don't know of anyone no tilling north of me. Once you get out beyond those boundaries no till seems to work fine. I have had better success since planting annuals and rotating more often. Most of my ground if it stays in hay or pasture too long becomes like concrete. So much so that tillage radish grew on top with just a little bitty root down about 8 ". I don't moldboard every year but only when rotating out of grass. Plowing also helps me maintain my waterways as the springs like to play hide and seek with the drainage.


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