# Making Alfalfa Hay in Humid Regions



## vhaby (Dec 30, 2009)

Several years ago the consensus on HT appeared to be to cut alfalfa one day, run the tedder over it early the next day, rake the third day, and bale the fourth day. This season, I am cutting the alfalfa and tedding it as soon as I can get back to the field with the tedder (8 acres). The tedded alfalfa becomes stem cracking dry by evening of the second day with 90+ degree afternoon temperatures, and I rake and bale it into small squares the third day.

Tedding immediately following completion of cutting opens the swath and does away with compressed hay due to driving one set of tractor tires on the swath of cut hay. Very few leaves are lost by tedding the freshly cut hay compared to waiting to run the tedder over the cut hay the next morning. Another advantage of tedding the same day as cutting is that bunched alfalfa at 90 degree turns is spread so that it dries uniformly with the rest of the cut alfalfa. Does anyone else work their alfalfa this way? What is your procedure?

I cut using a NH 488 cutter/crimper and cutting is somewhat of a slow process. I still have some difficulty maintaining square corners as I cut in a rectangular field. Any advice?


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## IHCman (Aug 27, 2011)

I am impressed that you can bale alfalfa on the 3rd day. Is that a grass mix or straight alfalfa?

Here I usually rake it on the morning of the 3rd day sometimes 4th day. Then let it sit and bale it a day later at night once the dew comes.


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## Gearclash (Nov 25, 2010)

Hay Wilson would say the time to tedder is immediately after cutting, as in as soon as the swath hits the ground. The idea it to keep the plant exposed to sunlight and prevent the stomata from closing and retarding the loss of moisture that first day of cutting.

We do not tedder alfalfa in any way, and only selectively tedder grass with a fluffer style tedder. Fluffers are more effective the day after cutting or later.

The two best things we ever did for alfalfa dry down were (1) lay the swath at the maximum width that the mower would lay it and (2) trade the NH swather with its rubber chevron rolls for a Hesston/Massey with a Twin Max conditioner.


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## mlappin (Jun 25, 2009)

I've tried the ted immediately after mowing, usually the next morning it's plastered tight to the ground again from the dew, here.

I've made two day hay by mowing in the morning after the dew is off the hay, I set the row only as wide as I can without driving on it, but the tires on my mowing tractor are set out as wide as possible with even the front tires dished out. Usually dealing with moist soil conditions here and running a tractor tire down the mown hay guarantees not all of it will get picked up by the tedder, here.

Next morning I ted after the dew is starting to leave the hay, not to early but can't wait to long or it will start to loose leaves, Need to start in time so as you finish its still a little tough.

Usually rake about 3 or 4 with a v wheel rake with center kicker wheels, can usually start baling an hour after raking.

Like to start baling just as the harvest tec unit shows the occasional but rare 19% but usually right at 18%, treat 19% blips with Hayguard, like to be done baling before it ever gets under 16%.

The Circle C rollers really do help shave a day off.


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## swmnhay (Jun 13, 2008)

IHCman said:


> Here I usually rake it on the morning of the 3rd day sometimes 4th day. Then let it sit and bale it a day later at night once the dew comes.


Ditto


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## Fossil02818 (May 31, 2010)

I've found that tedding out right after cutting improves dry down time for heavy or first cut hay, but, is not nearly as helpful for later or lighter cuttings. Normally we just ted it out the following morning once the dew has dried off. We couldn't consistently get it dry up here without a tedder. Just too humid and seldom get 4 days in a row of perfect conditions.


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## reede (May 17, 2010)

Vincent,

When are you raking into windrows with that schedule?

I ted everything immediately after cutting. In fact, my routine is to take the tedder/tractor rig to the field, then go get the tractor/mower. So when the field is done, I just hop off of one tractor, and get on the other. So far this year, with two cuttings under my belt, I tedded the alfalfa immediately after cutting, then first thing the next morning. But, I went from a 7 day cycle in May, to 5 in June t(both cuttings done the first week of the month). I am expecting to be quite a bit shorter for this next cutting, which will probably be this weekend/first of next week.

But, after the initial tedding(immediately after cutting), all of my moving of the hay crop is done early in the morning, with dew on the leaves. I typically try to rake a full day ahead of baling. So, if I rake Wed morning, my plan is to bale Thursday morning at 60% humidity in the field. In doing this, there is still some drying that needs to take place on Wed. The trick is judging just how much green should be left in the hay, that it will dry, and dry down to the bottom of the windrow, during the day, so that it is ready the next day to utilize the rehydration you get with the humidity rise overnight. At this point I have a decent handle on doing it with sericea, still figuring it out on alfalfa. Alfalfa doesn't dry as well when it is covered up(piled in the windrow) as sericea does.

Reed


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## reede (May 17, 2010)

Oh, and what kind of rake are you using? I hate corners myself, I usually done or two rows crossways as a headlands, and then back and forth on the vertical rows as I am baling. I use an EZ Trail bale basket, and sharp corners don't work well for the junction of square baler to basket. So, I usually clean up the end rows as I begin baling, and then bale down the field, turn the rig around with a nice sweeping turn, and head back the other way.


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## Beav (Feb 14, 2016)

Usually 3 days cut full swath ted 6 hours later that day or next morning depending on dew. rake and bale third day if conditions are normal.I prefer to bale at 15% or less. I can apply preservative but try not to. I got 40 acres of second cutting that is just starting to bloom hope to cut ASAP after the rain today and tonight. Our area is not as humid SC.


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## r82230 (Mar 1, 2016)

reede said:


> I ted everything immediately after cutting. In fact, my routine is to take the tedder/tractor rig to the field, then go get the tractor/mower. So when the field is done, I just hop off of one tractor, and get on the other.
> Reed


Ditto, this is my 'normal' procedure.

However, there is exceptions. This week, rained (if you want to call it that), Sunday morning until about noon (go 0.10" of rain). Started cutting about 1.30pm, got a few sprinkles while cutting, finishing about 4pm. Had discbine, laying hay as wide as possible, jump in other tractor, tedded until about 5.30pm.

Monday (yesterday), re-tedded about 11.30am (dew coming off, normally I don't do this second tedding, but rain forecasted for late today). Raked last night, starting about 6pm, finishing at 7.30pm. Jump in other tractor with RB hooked on just to see what the moisture is for sure (seemed like dry enough). First bale 15-16% moisture with some areas at 11-12%, baled for an hour until dew came in moisture went to 19-20%. Now this hay is about 50/50 alfalfa and OG.

The other field I cut Sunday higher in alfalfa, I'm headed out to rake & bale today (along with finishing field I started last night).

Usually, I cut with a dew on (start cutting at 6-7am), start tedding at 9-10am. Never touch again until either next day around 11am or following day at 11am, when I rake. Can usually start baling 2-3 hours after raking. Two day hay is becoming my new 'normal' (cut early one day, be baling late next day).

Before the knowledge I learned on HT, always a three day or more process (cut one day, bale two days or more later). 

YMMV

Larry

PS I think I did get HayJosh to try two day hay this year, with success. 

PSS need to use HayWilson's PE numbers, along with AWIS. :wub:


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## MrLuggs (Dec 14, 2015)

That's going to be this week, Larry  Here's hoping! .17, .27, .3 and .3 pan evap figures for wed/thurs/fri/sat, so here's hoping for 3 day hay before the rain on Sunday.


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## rjmoses (Apr 4, 2010)

I try to ted the next morning as soon as the dew starts to burn off, usually within 12 hours. My thinking is that this leaves enough moisture in the leafs to avoid leaf shatter and gets it up off the ground. But, I also spread it as wide as I can when mowing.

Most of the time, it is ready to bale on the 3rd day depending on ground moisture.

Ralph


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## reede (May 17, 2010)

Larry, your comment on time cut to bale is interesting. Using what I've learned here, it has actually added a day to my schedule. Which isn't always a good thing. But the quality is sooo much better. I used to try to catch the moisture at the "right" spot on the way down. Of course doing that you have differing moisture levels in leaf and stem. Now, it is much more even, re-moistening with humidity, but it is the next day.

Reed


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## rjmoses (Apr 4, 2010)

Before the knowledge I learned on HT, always a three day or more process (cut one day, bale two days or more later). 

Larry--What is your low average daily humidity?

Ralph


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## r82230 (Mar 1, 2016)

rjmoses said:


> Before the knowledge I learned on HT, always a three day or more process (cut one day, bale two days or more later).
> 
> Larry--What is your low average daily humidity?
> 
> Ralph


IDK, but here is the next few days AWIS numbers from my area (44% to 100% humidity, attached, which is highly unusual to have 'very high' PE numbers). Usually, my PE numbers are in the high twenties, maybe 31-33, it's the first time I seen anything over 33 (39 is off the chart in MY area). For those in MY area, you better get'er done in the next few days. I'm glad I'm done with 1st cutting (finished baling last night), because with temps being forecasted in the high 90's for the next few days, I would melt  (hats off to you southern guys).

I should have attached my 'pre-hay season' reading material, with my previous comments, but I was in a hurry to go rake/bale the last of my 1st cutting.

My pre-season reading is a bunch of HayWilson's wisdom that I copy/pasted a few years ago. I re-read this every year to get my mindset back into place. I can't say enough good things about his willingness to share the wisdom he has. :wub: Thanks again to HayWilson and HayTalk. I am not the person that created this wisdom, I just 'collected' stuff THAT I deem important to ME.

Hay Wilson's gleanings from the past (attached,my titling), does have some repeated stuff, from my work with copy/pasting, you just need to over-look MY work as you absorb HayWilson's wisdom (and thank him).

HayWilson's pan evaporation table is just a separate piece (from his gleaning collection), that I use throughout the season, along with AWIS information.

The last pieces are something that effects my operation during high humidity periods and a piece from Dan Undersander (UofWis).

Dan's piece is helpful for me to understand the first period of hay drying (going from around 80% moisture to around 47%. This is what 'sold' me on tedding ASAP, wanting as much crop as possible 'seeing' daylight and being exposed to winds (above 4 MPH).

The stomata's (leaf openings), will lose moisture for up to 5 hours. Hence, my finishing cutting by 3pm (leaving 6+ hours of daylight in MY area presently, a little cushion on my part). You might notice I mention seeing daylight, not necessarily sunshine. Have you ever noticed hay drying (abet slower) in the shade of a tree? My understanding is once the stomata closes (for lack of moisture it will not re-open. However, if the stomata closes for night fall it will absorb dew moisture, re-opening following morning.

UofWVir, piece helped me get my mind around why hay doesn't always what I call finish curing (getting down to 16-18% moisture. The chart (Figure 5), I have blown up and put some lines on for my usage (and understanding of temp/humidity intersections). A couple of years ago, I had a week of really high humidity, I rake and re-raked and re-raked, day, after day. The hay just wouldn't get down to baling moisture. Dumb me, I hadn't came across the U of WV piece on humidity and curing of hay, YET. :mellow:

I read somewhere (that I can seem to put my fingers on right now), that hay shouldn't be any more than 3/4" thick, in order for daylight to reach. If the plant can't see daylight, then it will not lose moisture.

As far as cutting hay with the dew, that's just my doing. I don't know of anywhere that is recommended, it's just my method. Because with an off farm job, it is what works, I can (and have) started cutting hay at day break (5.30am), can cut for couple of hours, ted right after and be at the office by 10am. Sometimes leaving again by 11am to go rake, with the dew coming off.

Like last night, I showed up at my church league softball game, still dressed in my haying clothes (blue jeans and shirt), verses my umpiring clothes. I didn't take the time (or have the time) to change, except for kicking off the work boots that is.

This is what works (and doesn't work) in MY area, growing alfalfa and alfalfa/grass hay.

YMMV

hth,

Larry


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## Gearclash (Nov 25, 2010)

Collecting Hay Wilson’s posts is a good idea, Larry. I’ve been thinking for a long time that it would be very useful to collect all his posts into one thread and post it as a sticky.


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## r82230 (Mar 1, 2016)

Gearclash said:


> Collecting Hay Wilson's posts is a good idea, Larry. I've been thinking for a long time that it would be very useful to collect all his posts into one thread and post it as a sticky.


I'm pretty sure I DID NOT get all of them, most likely (knowing me), I only copy/pasted stuff significant to making my kind of hay, in my area.  Nothing against other ways of making hay by any means. His wisdom seem to have no boundaries.

Larry


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## clowers (Feb 11, 2011)

Vince,

Sounds like your getting a handle on the alfalfa baling. How are your yields? Hows is the stand holding up to 95+ temps?

Scott


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## vhaby (Dec 30, 2009)

reede said:


> Vincent,
> 
> When are you raking into windrows with that schedule?
> 
> Reed


Reed, I cut/crimp and run the tedder on the freshly cut alfalfa on day 1, let dry on day 2, and rake and bale on day 3 if the stems crack and a fingernail can't scrape the epidermis layer of stems at the end of day 2. I begin raking when the morning dew is off the cut alfalfa but the leaves are still limp with moisture. Following Clowers advice and similar to your method of raking, I move in about 60 feet from the starting end to begin raking vertically and stop the rake about 60 feet from the opposite end. When the field is raked vertically, I do three horizontal passes on each end with the 8-wheel rake. After raking, I begin using the hygrothermometer to test humidity in the windrow. When the humidity is about 55%, I begin baling, but stop and test the first few bales with my moisture tester and by physically lifting a few bales. When the bale moisture drops to about 19 to 20 percent and the bale weight feels right, I start baling. Again following Clowers advice, I bale the horizontal ends first and then do the vertical windrows. I bale counter clock wise beginning with the 4th windrow (skip three) from the fence and come back on the 1st windrow, then the 5th windrow followed by the 2nd windrow and so on. Allows for nice wide turning swings bc I once broke a universal joint on the baler pto shaft right at the tractor pto by turning a sharp 90-degree angle at a fence corner.

With little knowledge about what I was doing, I was dumb lucky when purchasing haying equipment. Every piece matched. The NH 488 cutter/crimper cuts a 10-ft swath and was the first piece of equipment purchased. The four basket tedder throws two swaths. The 8-wheel rake and the baler came next without me realizing that the rake windrowed two swaths.

So far in three cuttings, all somewhat over mature because of having to wait for a 4 to 5 day rain-free window, the alfalfa has made 282, 386, and 274 seventy-five pound bales on the 8.3-acre fence-to-fence field.

Scott, the alfalfa can tolerate 90 to 100+ degree temperatures as long as the soil contains adequate plant-available moisture. The stand has thinned substantially by this 5th season, especially on the top of the hill where the sand depth to clay is only about 6-inches deep. Following this year's third cutting, the regrowth is not good- it's too dry. The alfalfa likely will go dormant and not produce another cutting until the soil rehydrates, if it does so during the growing season. Regardless, this year we filled the alfalfa section of the haybarn with the first cuttings as a hedge against a suspected coming drought instead of selling most of each cutting as we normally do. May prove to have been a wise move as the drought appears to be here.

Vincent


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## reede (May 17, 2010)

Vincent,

So far I have been raking a day ahead of baling. Now, I might get the alfalfa done in 3 days this next cut(coming up soon, as soon as there is a window without a sure chance of rain, Cut May 7, then June 3).

What I have been doing is raking a full day ahead of baling, with final drydown in the windrow. When I rake, I do have physical drops of water on the hay from dew That seems to take all day to get rid of, and leaves things still too damp when you get to 60% humidity that day.

But, it has been a little more challenge to get the alfalfa to finish drying at the bottom of the windrow. Works great for sericea, but maybe if I waited just a little later to rake, on the day of baling, that might help. I might play with a little more evening baling as well, we get high humidity as you get close to sundown. But, in the evening, the window is usually shorter in duration. Also, the humidity trigger points are a little different for me. Early in the day, I start at 60%, and stop when humidity gets down to 45%. In the evening, I start at 55%, and go up to 70%.

That got a little bit rambling, but those are some of the things I've been playing with and thinking about lately.

Reed


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## vhaby (Dec 30, 2009)

Reed,

When you rake with physical water drops on the alfalfa and if the rake kicks up dust, I suspect that you are sticking soil onto the alfalfa that may not shake off when baling. Waiting until the morning dew drops are off the alfalfa before raking might be a good idea to allow the windrowed alfalfa to dry faster. But what do I know as a neophyte baler...

Vincent


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## swmnhay (Jun 13, 2008)

vhaby said:


> Reed,
> 
> When you rake with physical water drops on the alfalfa and if the rake kicks up dust, I suspect that you are sticking soil onto the alfalfa that may not shake off when baling. Waiting until the morning dew drops are off the alfalfa before raking might be a good idea to allow the windrowed alfalfa to dry faster. But what do I know as a neophyte baler...
> 
> Vincent


agree,Sounds like the hay is to wet to rake and the windrow would be more of a rope and not fluffy.I usually have about 2 hrs for prime time rakeing from to wet to I start loosing leaves.Rake to early make a rope,rake to late have sticks.


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## rjmoses (Apr 4, 2010)

r82230 said:


> https://www.haytalk.com/forums/index.php?app=core&module=attach&section=attach&attach_id=76342


This is a very good article. There is one thing I situation-ally disagree with: Take the loader off your tractor.

I keep the loaders on so that I can either move a round bale off a windrow if one rolls onto the adjacent windrow or I can carry a bale back to the headland if my trip permits. Often, I'll have as much a 50% of the bales at the headland when I am done baling. My thinking is that this save one trip across the field.

Additionally, I run 4WD engaged. My thinking here is that by having it engaged, I lower slippage on the rear wheels and therefore reduce crown damage.

Remember: Most of my ground runs about a 20-25% grade, so I am always going uphill or downhill. Articles like this are dog-gone good starting points, but we need to refine our operations for our particular environments.

Ralph

Ridge Runner: A person who has one leg shorter than the other. Ridge runners often find themselves walking in circles on flat ground. That's why most NASCAR drivers, being from the southern mountains, can only turn left.


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