# How screwed am I?



## MyDaughtersPony (Jun 12, 2016)

Is this even remotely possible to fix? What ball park am I looking at to fix this? Any info would be much appreciated.


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## MyDaughtersPony (Jun 12, 2016)

I don't know the term but it's like the casting that shattered. The gears seem ok.... But I have no idea about these things.


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## Ranger518 (Aug 6, 2016)

What is that off of? I suppose if the gears were still good you may be able to have it brazed up but I’m not sure I would trust it that much unless it was just used for lite use.


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## MyDaughtersPony (Jun 12, 2016)

NH 66

I hay about 7 acres on a small hobby farm. All that casting that crumbled... What was it's purpose? The big gear and the small gear in the back seem in good shape...


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## pettibone (Jul 18, 2015)

I would think best bet would be to start calling used tractor part places. Probably the bolts that screw into the ring gear got loose causing play until that happened. I would think the ring gear holes that the bolts screw into would be screwed up. Should be able to find a used one


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## Ranger518 (Aug 6, 2016)

Yea I think your best bet would be to try to find a used one I figure you can find one pretty reasonable or just find a old parts baler which could be bought for scrap price I bet.


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## MyDaughtersPony (Jun 12, 2016)

My father in law is a mechanic. He said a local place called dnr driveline would probably be able to rebuild it for a minimum of $300 or more. Is that casting that crumbled necessary? Or if it was rebuilt minus the crumbled material. I'll definitely make some calls. I think I have a lead on a 66 in my area I might be able to part one from.


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## stack em up (Mar 7, 2013)

In my opinion, it’s not worth fixing. For 7 acres, hire it done.


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## MyDaughtersPony (Jun 12, 2016)

But then I don't get the satisfaction of putting up my own hay ????


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## danwi (Mar 6, 2015)

Get the parts machine you usually need all the parts in there to make it work. Plus you will have the satisfaction of repairing the baler. And if you have to buy one part new it will probably cost what you paid for the baler.


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## chevytaHOE5674 (Mar 14, 2015)

That casting appears to be a "differential carrier" without it there will be nothing to hold the gears and it wont function. Best option is to find a parts machine to rob.


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## MyDaughtersPony (Jun 12, 2016)

Ok good to know about the carrier. I'll start trying to locate a parts machine. Thanks for all the info. Really appreciate it.


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## bool (Mar 14, 2016)

There is no differential in there, so it is not a differential carrier. It looks like the main bevel gearbox. Get a parts machine.

Roger


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## HayMike (Mar 22, 2011)

Should be able to replace that baler with a better one easier than fixing that one.


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## MyDaughtersPony (Jun 12, 2016)

Not really an option. It's either this one or I hire it out. I'm a small hobby guy.


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## VA Haymaker (Jul 1, 2014)

MyDaughtersPony said:


> Not really an option. It's either this one or I hire it out. I'm a small hobby guy.


Not trying to sound harsh, but My opinion is you can't get rid of that 66 baler fast enough. I'd hire out the baling before I'd sink another dime in that baler.

JMHO...


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## chevytaHOE5674 (Mar 14, 2015)

The carrier that is shattered (I'm sure the mfg calls it a hub or something) in the main gearbox serves the same main purpose as the carrier in a differential. The ring gear is bolted to the carrier, the carrier has the internal splines to drive the output shaft. Different names but same purpose.


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## MyDaughtersPony (Jun 12, 2016)

leeave96 said:


> Not trying to sound harsh, but My opinion is you can't get rid of that 66 baler fast enough. I'd hire out the baling before I'd sink another dime in that baler.
> JMHO...


I appreciate your opinion. Thanks.


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## carcajou (Jan 28, 2011)

Guys lets start a pool and buy him a better baler. I'm in for $50 bucks.


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## Ranger518 (Aug 6, 2016)

Shirley somebody on here has Or knows somebody with a 66 sitting in the woods or fence line someware that they can rob some parts off of it.


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## dvcochran (Oct 1, 2017)

MyDaughtersPony said:


> I don't know the term but it's like the casting that shattered. The gears seem ok.... But I have no idea about these things.


You have gotten a lot of good responses. I agree that the shattered part is what the ring gear bolts to (whatever the mfg. calls it). The bigger question to me is why did it shatter? Metal, even cast does not just shatter. I would be very focused on figuring out WHAT caused the failure. If you don't and you find used, or even new parts, the failure will likely occur again. Does this "gearbox" (with a weighted flywheel)drive the plunger? If so, is there a massive amount of slack causing a lot of shock in the motion? We had something similar happen on a Ford 532.


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## dvcochran (Oct 1, 2017)

To my surprise Messicks has a parts diagram. Looks like #11. The call it a ring gear hub. No price though; never a good sign. :huh:


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## 8350HiTech (Jul 26, 2013)

leeave96 said:


> Not trying to sound harsh, but My opinion is you can't get rid of that 66 baler fast enough. I'd hire out the baling before I'd sink another dime in that baler.
> 
> JMHO...


He can probably buy a parts baler for scrap price so I wouldn't give up on it just because of this. (Not that at times I haven't suggested that he hire it out, as I certainly have)


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## JD3430 (Jan 1, 2012)

Ranger518 said:


> Shirley somebody on here has Or knows somebody with a 66 sitting in the woods or fence line someware that they can rob some parts off of it.


We may, but stop calling us Shirley
Lol


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## chevytaHOE5674 (Mar 14, 2015)

https://wausau.craigslist.org/grd/d/wisconsin-rapids-new-holland-66-baler/6883059813.html

Looks like there is a gearbox there. See if he will ship it. If not I could maybe make it down there and then get my dad to haul the parts down to lower Michigan.


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## Aaroncboo (Sep 21, 2014)

I always go through All States Ag Parts. They have several junk yards over the country and if usually had what I needed for balers or tractors. May even be able to get you a whole gearbox.


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## stack em up (Mar 7, 2013)

MyDaughtersPony said:


> Not really an option. It's either this one or I hire it out. I'm a small hobby guy.


And now you see why people just buy hay if they're doing ultra small acreages like that. Any breakdown and you just put yourself out of business. The amount of money you have tied up in machinery for 7 acres costs you more than what buying your hay ever would. Call the scrap guy and spend your free time with your family.


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## Aaroncboo (Sep 21, 2014)

It's all relative... His repair may not be expensive but for 7 acres it may be no different than the possibility of thousands for a repair on a new baler gearbox used on hundreds of acres


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## stack em up (Mar 7, 2013)

Aaroncboo said:


> It's all relative... His repair may not be expensive but for 7 acres it may be no different than the possibility of thousands for a repair on a new baler gearbox used on hundreds of acres


Biggest difference is those guys running hundreds of acres also cut 3 and 4 times per year, lowering the cost dramatically. No offense to the OP but he's lucky to get one cut without catastrophe.


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## carcajou (Jan 28, 2011)

MyDaughtersPony said:


> But then I don't get the satisfaction of putting up my own hay


This i understand


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## MyDaughtersPony (Jun 12, 2016)

stack em up said:


> And now you see why people just buy hay if they're doing ultra small acreages like that. Any breakdown and you just put yourself out of business. The amount of money you have tied up in machinery for 7 acres costs you more than what buying your hay ever would. Call the scrap guy and spend your free time with your family.


Do you really think that I've never considered this? It's really frustrating when people comment telling me to stop trying to bale hay. Do my questions on the appropriate forum board bother you that much... That you'd rather me quit? Do you really care that much about the time I spend with my kids... Or my finances? I asked about a problem. I don't appreciate you telling me to scrap my old broken baler.


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## MyDaughtersPony (Jun 12, 2016)

dvcochran said:


> You have gotten a lot of good responses. I agree that the shattered part is what the ring gear bolts to (whatever the mfg. calls it). The bigger question to me is why did it shatter? Metal, even cast does not just shatter. I would be very focused on figuring out WHAT caused the failure. If you don't and you find used, or even new parts, the failure will likely occur again. Does this "gearbox" (with a weighted flywheel)drive the plunger? If so, is there a massive amount of slack causing a lot of shock in the motion? We had something similar happen on a Ford 532.


We are still trying to solve that question... The plunger seems undamaged... Other than one of the shovel points on the head of the plunger... Probably need a picture to explain seems slightly not correct as if it hit something possibly. The wad board is undamaged. All the chains are entact. When it broke last year we heard a bang... Which I pressume was the hub shattering. Right now we have the baler in pieces trying to evaluate everything. I spent some good quality time with my dad yesterday. I consider that a win.


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## MyDaughtersPony (Jun 12, 2016)

chevytaHOE5674 said:


> https://wausau.craigslist.org/grd/d/wisconsin-rapids-new-holland-66-baler/6883059813.html
> Looks like there is a gearbox there. See if he will ship it. If not I could maybe make it down there and then get my dad to haul the parts down to lower Michigan.


I shot him a text. It's possible I can take a drive and get it if it comes to that. I appreciate your generosity. I will update if I get a response from him.


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## stack em up (Mar 7, 2013)

MyDaughtersPony said:


> Do you really think that I've never considered this? It's really frustrating when people comment telling me to stop trying to bale hay. Do my questions on the appropriate forum board bother you that much... That you'd rather me quit? Do you really care that much about the time I spend with my kids... Or my finances? I asked about a problem. I don't appreciate you telling me to scrap my old broken baler.


I look at everything as a business, as everyone should. If cost of production exceeds value of said product, it no longer becomes a business. Once I could no longer produce large square bales at a low enough cost, I sold the big baler and went back to round bales. And I called the scrap man on a helluva lot newer baler than yours, so don't feel bad if you do go that route.

I wouldn't want you to quit, I would just suggest taking a step back and looking at the big picture. If baling hay is your thing, get a new enough machine that lets you enjoy the task.

I have farmed with my dad since I was old enough to walk. I spent countless hours sitting at his feet in the tractor, combine, you name it. Wouldn't trade those memories for the world. My son and I are making those same memories and I treasure that. I have many memories of baling alfalfa with my dad sitting on the fender of our 656 Farmall while we chatted about everything under the sun. I wish the same for you, but it's kind of hard to do that when the baler is broke down and dad is frantically trying to fix.

And good luck on your search.


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## rankrank1 (Mar 30, 2009)

I would not bother with trying to repair your original gearbox. Much easier (and far cheaper) and way faster too since 1st cut will be approaching soon to simply swap an entire different gearbox assembly over from a parts machine donor. Assembling the internals of a gearbox from scratch involves setting lash and tolerances with shims just like a rear end in a car and involves considerable skill and patience - regardless the price of new parts would be outlandish even if they are available. That all said I would not pay much for a gearbox either to fix an old 66. If the price gets too high I would simply move on to another older NH baler that I could pick up for a few hundred and forget about the old 66 altogether (but I would keep that sweet engine drive system from it and consider transferring that to something else). Almost any model # NH would be better upgrade over a model 66. Looks like a member provided you a possible lead on two machines being scrapped. Maybe you get a gearbox for cheap there? Consider grabbing the needles if still there and even the Knotters too if the price is right. Hopefully the price will simply be their weight in scrap iron but I expect the seller he will likely expect you to remove the parts plus a little extra $ for his hassle time. Currently scrap iron is 120 a ton (or $0.06 per pound) in my area which means you should be able to get these parts cheap since scrap is way down. That trip you could have made to SouthEast Ohio for a complete NH 66 "free for the taking" is really starting to look like a golden opportunity lost about now.

As for all the naysayers about all the money you have invested to make hay on 7 acres; I would be much more worried about your enterprise if you had a $30K tractor, $15K baler, and $8k rake tied up to make hay on a mere 7 acres. Believe it or not there are idiots who do that and swear they are making money as well...sure they are...can not wait to hear about those big fish they caught either on their last trip. You have minimal money invested in your operation which is the only way it will ever pencil out fiscally on haying such few acres. The downside is one has to work on stuff themselves and scrounge for low cost scrap parts (as well as finding usable equipment that can be purchased at scrap or less level prices) when operating on a shoestring budget and basically donate your man hours for free which is not a big deal if you enjoy doing it.

I operate on a shoestring budget using old antiques too and only do about 5.75 acres on average most cuts. While I may not make much money on my hobby hay operation; I am not losing any money either and absolutely none of my hobby money comes out of my regular job money. When free stuff or really low cost stuff pops up though I pounce on it though even if it is not the most opportune time for me. One must do this if they truly make the enterprise pay for itself instead of pulling money from their real job. I have an extra baler NH Super 68 baler that I picked up for cheap $400 that I have never used and hope to never need but its condition is like new except for paint. Honestly it is better shape than the baler I use. Also have tractors that I have picked up for $50, $100, and $200 of which I did not need any of them but could not turn down for the money (I have them all running by the way and one of them gets lots of use as it is a miser on fuel).


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## MyDaughtersPony (Jun 12, 2016)

Thanks for the insight rank


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## Ranger518 (Aug 6, 2016)

Everybody is looking at this as he is in business and yes he could hire it out and be out less headache but like he said it is a HOBBY FARM which means he is not in it as a business or to make a profit he just injoys putting up his own hay which I get 100%. It’s really no different than any other hobby like hunting or fishing. We just need to try and help him get this baler back making bales.


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## stack em up (Mar 7, 2013)

Ranger518 said:


> Everybody is looking at this as he is in business and yes he could hire it out and be out less headache but like he said it is a HOBBY FARM which means he is not in it as a business or to make a profit he just injoys putting up his own hay which I get 100%. It's really no different than any other hobby like hunting or fishing. We just need to try and help him get this baler back making bales.


You got a lot more expensive hobbies than I do. I don't have $75 invested in a fishing rod and reel, and even then I'll have to catch tons of fish to make that pay me back.


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## Ranger518 (Aug 6, 2016)

stack em up said:


> You got a lot more expensive hobbies than I do. I don't have $75 invested in a fishing rod and reel, and even then I'll have to catch tons of fish to make that pay me back.


LOL yea I'm kinda stupid as I am a avid tournament fisherman. You think farm equipment is expensive you should look into bass fishing gear with new boats in th 100k range and rods and reals in the 1k range hell I have baits that cost more than $75 each. I guess it is all up to what you like to do and call your hobby sometimes it's not about the money as much as it is what you enjoy doing.


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## MyDaughtersPony (Jun 12, 2016)

I don't have any hobbies... Other than spending time with my family. I do enjoy making hay... Although sometimes it seems like I don't make very much of it.. to be honest for me... It is a cheap hobby. It is at times more stressful and frustrating than a hobby should be... The few times I was able to successfully make good hay gave me a great sense of accomplishment... I'd like to get that feeling back.


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## Palmettokat (Jul 10, 2017)

Years ago my mother in law told me I should give up farming and take up fishing. Cost less and was not as hard work. Explained how much joy it was to me and how it was a business that did make profit and also was taking care of the family farm. Then years later I bought a boat...funny she told me I needed to sell the boat...


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## rankrank1 (Mar 30, 2009)

MyDaughtersPony said:


> .... I do enjoy making hay... Although sometimes it seems like I don't make very much of it.. to be honest for me... It is a cheap hobby. It is at times more stressful and frustrating than a hobby should be...


That is exactly why I refer to my hobby hay making as "my masochistic" hobby. Rewarding when it goes well, but rarely does it always go as well as one wants. So many of the variables (i.e. weather) are totally out of ones control. Rewarding yet frustrating all at the same time. Total euphoria when the job is done though.


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## Shetland Sheepdog (Mar 31, 2011)

Well, I hay about 15 acres. usually get about 10-12 acres of second, and maybe 5 acres of third!
I make a profit most years, even with my equipment lineup (see below)
Of course all is paid for, and depreciated, so no expense there!


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## JD3430 (Jan 1, 2012)

Reading these replies brings back a lot of memories.

I started with ~15 acres a JD 336 baler, 70HP tractor,, JD rollbar rake, and a $500 tedder. I picked bales up off the ground, put them on a small trailer and drove them into the barn and hand stacked tham. Now up to ~180 acres with significantly larger equipment.

Wonder if I had the attitude that I only had 15 [rented] acres, I'm losing money and with one major repair and should just quit, where I'd be today? More importantly, where would any 1st generation farmer be if they had felt that way?

Been at it 7 years now and have turned a profit, albeit a small one every year in last 4 years. Also, every year profits have increased despite some significant repairs in 2017 & 2018. I have had to supplement farm income by mowing fields and plowing snow and coaching sports, but most farmers I know do similar farm related tasks. I can see a day when I will be able to let go of the supplemental income.

I believe one of the great things about our country is we have been constitutionally given a format where we can pursue our happiness and dreams to see if they take us where we want to go. Succeed or fail, America is still the land of opportunity.

Look at the millions of business start ups that people laughed at that now make billions. I bet the founders of Home Depot and many others had their critics, too.

Farming is a very difficult way to make money, but if we make it too impossible to get started, where will the future of farming go?

*Encouraging farming*, even if starting very small with little profit is very important to our country's future.


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## Ranger518 (Aug 6, 2016)

JD3430 said:


> Reading these replies brings back a lot of memories.
> I started with ~15 acres a JD 336 baler, 70HP tractor,, JD rollbar rake, and a $500 tedder. Now up to ~180 acres with significantly larger equipment.
> Wonder if I had the attitude that I only had 15 [rented] acres, I'm losing money and with one major repair and should just quit, where I'd be today? More importantly, where would any 1st generation farmer be if they had felt that way?
> Been at it 7 years now and have turned a profit, albeit a small one every year. Also, every year profits have increased despite some significant repairs in 2017 & 2018. I have had to supplement farm income by mowing fields and plowing snow and coaching sports, but most farmers I know do similar farm related tasks.
> ...


Well said!!


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## IHCman (Aug 27, 2011)

Palmettokat said:


> Years ago my mother in law told me I should give up farming and take up fishing. Cost less and was not as hard work. Explained how much joy it was to me and how it was a business that did make profit and also was taking care of the family farm. Then years later I bought a boat...funny she told me I needed to sell the boat...


Don't ever figure out what fish you caught costs per pound. ever.


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## Ranger518 (Aug 6, 2016)

IHCman said:


> Don't ever figure out what fish you caught costs per pound. ever.


I can't because I throw them all back. Love to fish just don't like eating fresh water fish.


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## MyDaughtersPony (Jun 12, 2016)

Ranger are you bass or salmon fishing? My uncle does tournament salmon fishing on lake Michigan. He has some money invested in that hobby. I've joined him a handful of times over the years. It's a lot of fun.


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## stack em up (Mar 7, 2013)

IHCman said:


> Don't ever figure out what fish you caught costs per pound. ever.


That's the problem, everything has a cost to it. When cost exceeds value it's time to find a different way to get said product.


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## Ranger518 (Aug 6, 2016)

MyDaughtersPony said:


> Ranger are you bass or salmon fishing? My uncle does tournament salmon fishing on lake Michigan. He has some money invested in that hobby. I've joined him a handful of times over the years. It's a lot of fun.


I bass fish as we don't have salmon around here. But I have been salmon and lake trout fishing on Lake Michigan, Huron, and superior over the years. I have lots of family that live in centennial Michigan area and they salmon and fish for lake trout a lot. I really want to do some small mouth fishing up there though kinda on my bucket list.


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## stack em up (Mar 7, 2013)

JD3430 said:


> Reading these replies brings back a lot of memories.
> I started with ~15 acres a JD 336 baler, 70HP tractor,, JD rollbar rake, and a $500 tedder. I picked bales up off the ground, put them on a small trailer and drove them into the barn and hand stacked tham. Now up to ~180 acres with significantly larger equipment.
> Wonder if I had the attitude that I only had 15 [rented] acres, I'm losing money and with one major repair and should just quit, where I'd be today? More importantly, where would any 1st generation farmer be if they had felt that way?
> Been at it 7 years now and have turned a profit, albeit a small one every year in last 4 years. Also, every year profits have increased despite some significant repairs in 2017 & 2018. I have had to supplement farm income by mowing fields and plowing snow and coaching sports, but most farmers I know do similar farm related tasks. I can see a day when I will be able to let go of the supplemental income.
> ...


Anyone starting out will have to find a niche to fill or else the low cost producer will put them out of business in no time flat. I guarantee you come in this area and start row crop farming corn/soybeans conventionally, you won't last long. Even the guys doing organic are struggling as the profit margin just isn't there. It's like if i went and started to dairy. I've always wanted to but because others can do it a helluva lot cheaper than I can, I would be out of business in maybe 12 months? Or because I like tractors I'm going to go start building tractors. How long do you think I'll be able to survive before the lower cost producers push me out?


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## MyDaughtersPony (Jun 12, 2016)

In my situation I am not trying to feed my family by making hay. I'm trying to have a hobby... It is enjoyable for me driving a tractor around the field. Anyways I get enjoyment out of it.. my struggle is keeping it affordable...like any hobby it can get out of control.


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## r82230 (Mar 1, 2016)

MyDaughtersPony said:


> In my situation I am not trying to feed my family by making hay. I'm trying to have a hobby... It is enjoyable for me driving a tractor around the field. Anyways I get enjoyment out of it.. my struggle is keeping it affordable...like any hobby it can get out of control.


Dang hay bug, once it gets in your system, seems like impossible to shake. You have to fight Mother Nature's bugs, diseases, weather and the dirt you are using in your area. Then the stars seem to align now and then, you are in utopia, at the end of the day, with that sweet smell of fresh hay in the barn. You just do it again, almost asking for all the variables (that you don't control) to be thrown at you again and again, dang hay bug anyhow.

For me anyhow, that smell is something special.

Larry


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## MyDaughtersPony (Jun 12, 2016)

It's a drug haha


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## MyDaughtersPony (Jun 12, 2016)

Duplicate.


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## JD3430 (Jan 1, 2012)

Sometimes it's starts as a hobby.....
Farming real big in my area, too. Just because you live in the Midwest don't mean our AG commodity prices ain't cheap in the Red State of Pennsylvania, too. Plenty of guys selling 4x5's for $30 and losing money.
Guys gotta start somewhere. I inherited 0 acres and didn't start with a pile of money yet I'm doing OK. No offense to anyone that did, either. Just makes the road to success a little easier.
Just have to be smart and give it at least 5 years


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## IHCman (Aug 27, 2011)

Ranger518 said:


> I can't because I throw them all back. Love to fish just don't like eating fresh water fish.


You just need wallye or perch down there.


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## JD3430 (Jan 1, 2012)

Making money is very important. It's true.
But one of the greatest benefits to farming is the precious time I get to spend with my son helping me. We talk a lot. We get to work together as a team. He learns something no school could ever teach. It gives him a part time summer job. Our youth is so detached from learning these kinds of tasks and Appreciating hard work and sacrifice.


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## kyfarmboy (Feb 11, 2014)

Where are you located? I know some junk yards around here in ky would have some 66s for parts. I'd probably junk it and upgrade. A 268 can be had cheap now. My 268 is a 250 dollar baler it's not near as fast as a modern baler but gets along fine and makes a good bale. I've got 2 parts balers. One of them has been fixed and is now a backup. You dont have to have the latest and greatest although I'm sure it would be nice. I farm with old junk but it pencils out.


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## dvcochran (Oct 1, 2017)

Aaroncboo said:


> I always go through All States Ag Parts. They have several junk yards over the country and if usually had what I needed for balers or tractors. May even be able to get you a whole gearbox.


I have had good luck with All States Ag Parts. I would put much more confidence in buying parts that they have disassembled and inspected vs. somebody's unknown "salvage" baler. Plus I personally would not want the boat anchor that the rest of the scrap baler would inevitability become. Unless there is some sentimental reason for keeping the old baler going. But then you get in to the time and expense of either paying someone else to bring it to you ($$$) or taking time to do it yourself. Then tearing it down and finding that is has the same problem, possibly it is systemic across the model.

Decisions like these go on at length. Not meaning to sound rude but you do not seem to know a great deal about the failed component. There is some fairly delicate shimming involved to get the ring and pinion gears lashing correctly. It is not as simple as finding the damaged part and bolting it back in. You can easily ruin the gearing and that would be big $$$$. I would take it to a driveline shop or possibly and heavy equipment mechanic who know differentials. I would consider it a specialty.


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## Hayjosh (Mar 24, 2016)

stack em up said:


> You got a lot more expensive hobbies than I do. I don't have $75 invested in a fishing rod and reel, and even then I'll have to catch tons of fish to make that pay me back.


I don't think you hobby well. The purpose of a hobby isn't to pay yourself back, it's for pure enjoyment. I might dump $30k into restoring a Mustang and won't make a dime off it, it probably exceeds the car's value, and I'm 100% okay with that. I'll dump just as much into making hay and don't expect to make a dime off it, but it turns out I actually do and that's just bonus. There's a value to living a life doing the things you enjoy and being fortunate enough to do them that you can't put a dollar amount on. I work hard so I can play hard.


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## Hayjosh (Mar 24, 2016)

MyDaughtersPony said:


> In my situation I am not trying to feed my family by making hay. I'm trying to have a hobby... It is enjoyable for me driving a tractor around the field. Anyways I get enjoyment out of it.. my struggle is keeping it affordable...like any hobby it can get out of control.


At first I told my wife "It's nothing serious, it can just supplement our hay supply for the horses."

Then I told her "I just need to get this one piece of equipment."

Then I told her "Neighbor sold his tractor, but shouldn't we really have our own tractor anyway? We could really use it for a lot of things."

Then I told her "I just need to get this other piece of equipment. I don't think I will need to buy anymore."

Then I told her "We really need a bigger tractor."

Then one fall I told her "I'm getting out of hay and selling everything."

Then the following spring I told her "Just kidding, now I need to buy everything again."

Then I told her "I'm going to add a new field."

Then I told her "Just kidding. I'm going to add several new fields."

Then I told her "We should probably get a farm insurance plan."

And you know what? Turns out I never stopped telling her things. It's super strange because every spring something new rolls onto the place and it must have something to do with the global warming because the equipment keeps getting bigger!

Moral of the story: Tell her things all the time, then she just comes to expect it. 

Hay is like the crack of agriculture: about anybody can get it, it's extremely addicting and then becomes an expensive habbit, is good to smell, the highs are high but at the same time can make you lose your damn mind.


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## MyDaughtersPony (Jun 12, 2016)

kyfarmboy said:


> Where are you located? I know some junk yards around here in ky would have some 66s for parts. I'd probably junk it and upgrade. A 268 can be had cheap now. My 268 is a 250 dollar baler it's not near as fast as a modern baler but gets along fine and makes a good bale. I've got 2 parts balers. One of them has been fixed and is now a backup. You dont have to have the latest and greatest although I'm sure it would be nice. I farm with old junk but it pencils out.


I am located west Michigan. I would drive to Kentucky to get a part or possibly a very cheap baler. The baler I use is engine powered because I do not have a suitable tractor. If I was to get a different baler it would need to be engine powered.


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## Ox76 (Oct 22, 2018)

You can make any of those older balers engine powered just by running a belt around the flywheel. In theory, any baler can be made engine powered, but the devil is in the details.


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## Green Fields (Jul 25, 2014)

OP weren't you the one who didn't have a large tractor to pull a baler with? If so then buying another baler may be problematic no? The 66 is a pretty small baler. We must have baled over 100,000 bales pulled with a Farmall A without anything major happening to it. It was in good shape though when my dad bought it from my uncle. I still have it but don't want to sell it, I'd like to restore it. I would definitely try to figure out what went wrong to cause the breakage.

I noticed Fry's have a 66 listed.... https://www.tractorhouse.com/listings/farm-equipment/dismantled-machines/32604451/new-holland-66?dlr=1&pcid=3013945&crmid=3124569&if

I never did any business with them, I don't know whether they would sell parts off it or what. There's got to be a lot of these still around maybe closer to where you live.


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## Green Fields (Jul 25, 2014)

I just looked at the picture... do I see bolts with a hole through the head and wire connecting the bolts together? If so I kind of doubt it was made that way. I did something similar when the bolts holding the pto stub on kept coming loose on my JD3010. If somebody did that then they were having problems of the bolts coming loose.


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## MyDaughtersPony (Jun 12, 2016)

Good info green fields. I can take more pictures if it would help some of you guys to identify what actually caused this to happen. I see if I have time to run out tonight after my daughter's t ball game!!!


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## MyDaughtersPony (Jun 12, 2016)

What do those bolts hold together?


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## stack em up (Mar 7, 2013)

Green Fields said:


> I just looked at the picture... do I see bolts with a hole through the head and wire connecting the bolts together? If so I kind of doubt it was made that way. I did something similar when the bolts holding the pto stub on kept coming loose on my JD3010. If somebody did that then they were having problems of the bolts coming loose.


Apparently you've never worked on an injection pump. Use bolts with wire thru to note if it has been tampered with.

In this case, they are using the wire as a locking mechanism as you did, but it most definitely a factory placement. Most mechanics will replace the wire when servicing, but it's hard to get that exact twist they did from the factory.

In any case, to the OP, with as much filings as is in there now, replace the bearings, and with the limited clearance, I would magnaflux the housing to be sure there are no cracks in the housing.


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## kyfarmboy (Feb 11, 2014)

MyDaughtersPony said:


> I am located west Michigan. I would drive to Kentucky to get a part or possibly a very cheap baler. The baler I use is engine powered because I do not have a suitable tractor. If I was to get a different baler it would need to be engine powered.


check with drane equipment in harned ky. He did have several old parts balers of that era. As for the engine I'd say you could put yours on about any newholland baler.


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## stack em up (Mar 7, 2013)

MyDaughtersPony said:


> What do those bolts hold together?


They hold the ring gear to the carrier.


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## Green Fields (Jul 25, 2014)

stack em up said:


> Apparently you've never worked on an injection pump. Use bolts with wire thru to note if it has been tampered with.
> 
> In this case, they are using the wire as a locking mechanism as you did, but it most definitely a factory placement. Most mechanics will replace the wire when servicing, but it's hard to get that exact twist they did from the factory.
> 
> In any case, to the OP, with as much filings as is in there now, replace the bearings, and with the limited clearance, I would magnaflux the housing to be sure there are no cracks in the housing.


 I think I've seen the injection pump wires but I never worked on one or anything that had the wire locking system. I looked up the part on Messicks and they have a picture of the bolt with the hole in it for a wire.


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## Green Fields (Jul 25, 2014)

MyDaughtersPony said:


> Good info green fields. I can take more pictures if it would help some of you guys to identify what actually caused this to happen. I see if I have time to run out tonight after my daughter's t ball game!!!


I'm thinking now the best thing would be if you can get the whole gearbox off a baler and then not have to worry about what caused the problem or how to install the parts correctly, as others have suggested.


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## MyDaughtersPony (Jun 12, 2016)

I'm definitely getting a complete gearbox or nothing at all. I'm not messing with all those parts.


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## stack em up (Mar 7, 2013)

MyDaughtersPony, can you take a picture of the flywheel/belt/engine setup? I'm wondering what kind of shear protection is built into it. Older engine driven balers used to have slip built into the belt drive, curious what your has.

If there is no shear protection, you're just gonna have this issue next time the plunger hits something. Could have run something up the pickup into the plunger, or possibly the plunger rail slides rotted away enough that plunger just dropped down and caught the bottom of the bale chamber.


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## bool (Mar 14, 2016)

I don't know how NH balers arrange it but on IH PTO balers I have owned the flywheel shear bolt is after the flywheel.The bolt breaks, the baler stops and the flywheel keeps turning until you cut the power to the PTO. I cannot imagine NH or any other manufacturer doing it differently. The last thing you want if there is a baler problem that causes the flywheel shear bolt to break is the flywheel continuing to unload its momentum into the baler mechanism. So I would imagine on an engine powered baler the flywheel shear bolt would still protect the main bevel gearbox such as the one that has broken on this machine.

Roger


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## MyDaughtersPony (Jun 12, 2016)

I'll try to take a picture tomorrow. Dealing with kids after t ball. It does have a fly wheel sheer bolt. I have sheared it and it does cut power.


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## MyDaughtersPony (Jun 12, 2016)

Some pictures. You'll see the hole in the flywheel for the shear pin. As you can see the flywheel is currently off the baler.


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## MyDaughtersPony (Jun 12, 2016)

The flywheel is actually pictured here. The first picture of the previous post is behind the flywheel where there shear bolt goes through... Which is connected to the gear box.


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## MyDaughtersPony (Jun 12, 2016)

You can't tell from this angle but one of those noses is bent.. Probably not a good thing. Also... We tried to remove the plunger as you can see we disconnected it... The manual says to pull it out of the bale chamber... It keeps getting stuck... I'm guessing the further down the chamber it goes the less it's worn... Any ideas on how to get it out?


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## MyDaughtersPony (Jun 12, 2016)

That little lever sticking up is the needle safety latch. The plunger should hit that and shear a pin saving the needles from being smashed.


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## Ray 54 (Aug 2, 2014)

I ran a IH 56 the bushing in the flywheel had the weld brake. This allowed the bushing to float back and forth. The day of my problem, I think the bushing pushed out so part that is the other half of the shear bolt mechanized hit the bushing the next revolution of the flywheel. Broke most if not all the gears in the gearbox. Was lucky and found a parts baler close.

About taking the plunger out are there any wedges in the bale chamber.


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## MyDaughtersPony (Jun 12, 2016)

I can check again but we already removed a few things in the chamber... The stationary knife and I think the hay stops come to mind.


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## stack em up (Mar 7, 2013)

bool said:


> I don't know how NH balers arrange it but on IH PTO balers I have owned the flywheel shear bolt is after the flywheel.The bolt breaks, the baler stops and the flywheel keeps turning until you cut the power to the PTO. I cannot imagine NH or any other manufacturer doing it differently. The last thing you want if there is a baler problem that causes the flywheel shear bolt to break is the flywheel continuing to unload its momentum into the baler mechanism. So I would imagine on an engine powered baler the flywheel shear bolt would still protect the main bevel gearbox such as the one that has broken on this machine.
> 
> Roger


The reason I asked was because of his baler seems kind of morphadite, then possibility is there someone cobbled it together without shear protection.


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## stack em up (Mar 7, 2013)

MyDaughtersPony said:


> The flywheel is actually pictured here. The first picture of the previous post is behind the flywheel where there shear bolt goes through... Which is connected to the gear box.


Shear bolt did shear in that picture, it wasn't enough protection. You have bigger problems.


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## Ray 54 (Aug 2, 2014)

MyDaughtersPony said:


> I can check again but we already removed a few things in the chamber... The stationary knife and I think the hay stops come to mind.


Are you trying to take it out the front? All the ones I have been around you take it out the back.

Since the bushing is out of the flywheel in the picture It make the it look more like the same problem I had. All the baler I have run but one had there own engine. All but the IH menched were NH from a 78, and then 3 tie machines 290,500,505,and 515.


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## MyDaughtersPony (Jun 12, 2016)

stack em up said:


> Shear bolt did shear in that picture, it wasn't enough protection. You have bigger problems.


What do you mean it didn't shear? How do you know that looking at the picture? It's disassembled and there is no shear bolt in the picture...


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## MyDaughtersPony (Jun 12, 2016)

Ray 54 said:


> Are you trying to take it out the front? All the ones I have been around you take it out the back.
> 
> Since the bushing is out of the flywheel in the picture It make the it look more like the same problem I had. All the baler I have run but one had there own engine. All but the IH menched were NH from a 78, and then 3 tie machines 290,500,505,and 515.


We were trying it pull it down and out the end of the bale cute.


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## 8350HiTech (Jul 26, 2013)

MyDaughtersPony said:


> We were trying it pull it down and out the end of the bale cute.


You really shouldn't have to clear anything other than the dogs and wedges but you could have a few bolt heads give you grief and obviously you have to take the tension of the chamber. Reach in with a pry bar if it seems to stop in a spot for no reason and try to move it to see if it's simply binding.


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## MyDaughtersPony (Jun 12, 2016)

8350HiTech said:


> You really shouldn't have to clear anything other than the dogs and wedges but you could have a few bolt heads give you grief and obviously you have to take the tension of the chamber. Reach in with a pry bar if it seems to stop in a spot for no reason and try to move it to see if it's simply binding.


Ok thanks. Apparently there are some wooden guides on this thing that get worn. That's why we are taking out the plunger to begin with. In my honest opinion my dad and I will dismantle this baler and try to go through it the best we can... Adjusting and replacing everything we can figue out and learn. One might call it a waste of time... Another a good old fashion lesson of determination and learning how antique balers work. I'm sure some of the things I'll learn translate to newer machines. This guy Dennis from Wisconsin has 2 66 part balers. He said $350 and I can take all the parts off of them excludi duplicate parts. I believe he said $450 and I can take whatever I want. He has repaired working condition needles also. Who knows maybe we can go through this baler and get is working decent again... We will give it our best shot. My dad is not one to give up. I will more than likely be on asking questions.


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## stack em up (Mar 7, 2013)

MyDaughtersPony said:


> What do you mean it didn't shear? How do you know that looking at the picture? It's disassembled and there is no shear bolt in the picture...


Go ahead and reread what I wrote , I'll wait here...


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## MyDaughtersPony (Jun 12, 2016)

It has sheared before but when it broke the last time last year.. When I believe the gear box blew up.. I don't believe the flywheel shear bolt sheared. As a matter of fact it didn't because I had to take out the entact shear bolt to remove the flywheel. So whatever happened happened without shearing the flywheel shear bolt.


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## stack em up (Mar 7, 2013)

In the picture of the flywheel, it looks to these eyes there is remnants of a shear bolt in the hole in the 12:00 position.

A shear bolt can shear but the slip clutch not slip, was that rusted tight or did it slip as well?

I'm just speculating here, but I bet the reason you had to take a fully intact bolt out was because last year when the gearbox shelled, you had replaced the broken one


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## Hayjosh (Mar 24, 2016)

You're really tearing this baler down, and I can see it being a complete nightmare to get back together. There are a lot of clearances to make sure you have just right when putting everything back together, or you're going to have a baler that's no worky, and then you'll be frustrated and not making hay.

So you have to pick your battles.

I hired an Amish guy named Christ King (King's Repair) and he repairs and services square balers and knotters. He comes up and works on site from Ohio, and watching him work is like wizardry. He comes up in a big van with all his tools and a bunch of parts. He worked on my 311 for about 2.5 hrs, replaced a few parts, made some adjustments and then went over everything with me (he said we'll make this like a seminar). A lot of it I knew, but I learned a lot too. It only cost $300 and some change and was maybe the best money I spent last summer. My baler ran perfect the entire summer. He was a GREAT teacher too.

He could probably have your baler back in shape in 4-6 hours, and all you have to do is watch and learn and then not have problems with your baler for the rest of the summer. I'm actually thinking of having him come up every other summer to tune up the baler. It's peace of mind for me.


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## bool (Mar 14, 2016)

stack em up said:


> The reason I asked was because of his baler seems kind of morphadite, then possibility is there someone cobbled it together without shear protection.


Fair enough.

My impression was the only thing modified on it is the engine.

Roger


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## JD3430 (Jan 1, 2012)

Hayjosh said:


> You're really tearing this baler down, and I can see it being a complete nightmare to get back together. There are a lot of clearances to make sure you have just right when putting everything back together, or you're going to have a baler that's no worky, and then you'll be frustrated and not making hay.
> 
> So you have to pick your battles.
> 
> ...


I also owned a Christ King baler (NH315)
He is an excellent mechanic and a great human being.
I live about 45 minutes from him. When I bought my baler, he said he would stand behind it. I put it in the field and made many bales with it, but it did give me a little trouble.
Both times I called him, he came out right away. Cowboy Joe is his driver (Christ is Amish and doesn't drive). One time a newly installed part simply snapped. I think he called it a "dawg" or something like that (can't remember back prolly 5-6 years). He replaced it on the spot and charged me nothing. It was a pretty substantial chunk of cast. He told me I owed him nothing.
The second time it was getting banana bales. He and Cowboy Joe drove alongside the baler and listened to it tie. They would have me pull over and make a small adjustment, bale some more then make another adjustment, etc. this went on for 30-40 bales till that baler was running perfect.
I was happy to get the baler running, but more impressed by this mans dedication and love of his trade. I think he charged me $50 He rebuilds and sells used balers better than anyone I could imagine.
Even today, I keep thinking what the heck is going to happen when dedicated folks like these pass on? Who will replace them? 
I haven't met many young farm equipment repairmen.
Most are 60-70 years old and looking like they should be having a cool drink on the covered porch.
I think the mennonites and the Amish are keeping many, many farmers running and not ripping us off, either.
I deal a lot with MM Weaver in Leola, PA as they have the cleanest operation and some of the kindest people I've ever worked with. They are a Mennonite family run business. It's like a giant extended family of 50+ people work there.
They will not tolerate any angry tempered employees or any rude behavior. There is no smoking or cursing. 
I'm surprised they don't corner the market in farm equipment sales and service.


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## MyDaughtersPony (Jun 12, 2016)

chevytaHOE5674 said:


> https://wausau.craigslist.org/grd/d/wisconsin-rapids-new-holland-66-baler/6883059813.html
> 
> Looks like there is a gearbox there. See if he will ship it. If not I could maybe make it down there and then get my dad to haul the parts down to lower Michigan.


This is the guy I am in contact with. He's in his 70's and is out there wrenching on this thing... I told him not to but he can't seem to help himself. He was going to drain the oil and let me know what it looks like. I'm wondering if shipping it would be cheaper than driving out 6.5 hours to go get it. He said $250 for the gearbox or $350 or something for any parts I want except duplicate parts off the 2 machines or $450 or all the parts I want. He said the axel is broke and it probably wouldn't trailer well if I wanted to take the entire baler. So far I'm striking out finding anything closer on the internet - even all state ag said they didn't have a gearbox available.


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## 8350HiTech (Jul 26, 2013)

MyDaughtersPony said:


> This is the guy I am in contact with. He's in his 70's and is out there wrenching on this thing... I told him not to but he can't seem to help himself. He was going to drain the oil and let me know what it looks like. I'm wondering if shipping it would be cheaper than driving out 6.5 hours to go get it. He said $250 for the gearbox or $350 or something for any parts I want except duplicate parts off the 2 machines or $450 or all the parts I want. He said the axel is broke and it probably wouldn't trailer well if I wanted to take the entire baler. So far I'm striking out finding anything closer on the internet - even all state ag said they didn't have a gearbox available.


Shipping the gearbox would probably be worth it except you should be there in person so you can get every last part that you can. Heck, even take the flywheels, you'll have some big weights if nothing else. If both balers have needles, I'd take the $450 deal over the $350 deal without thinking twice. If you take some time and know what parts to get, you'll get yours going again and have enough left for spares or to eBay and get you money back. (Not that you couldn't try to negotiate a little and see what he says. Once you're there in person and profess your love for 66 balers, maybe he'll take a liking to you and knock 100 bucks off)

HOWEVER, from an opportunity cost standpoint, if you were to take the $450, the value of the day (or two?) spent picking parts and traveling, and the scrap value of your current baler, what even slightly newer baler could you buy instead?

So personally, I'd do the $450 deal but maybe try to recoup some of that in the short term by selling some parts that you harvest that might have value but that you are unlikely to need extras of, such as wagon hitches and drivelines.


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## Ranger518 (Aug 6, 2016)

MyDaughtersPony said:


> This is the guy I am in contact with. He's in his 70's and is out there wrenching on this thing... I told him not to but he can't seem to help himself. He was going to drain the oil and let me know what it looks like. I'm wondering if shipping it would be cheaper than driving out 6.5 hours to go get it. He said $250 for the gearbox or $350 or something for any parts I want except duplicate parts off the 2 machines or $450 or all the parts I want. He said the axel is broke and it probably wouldn't trailer well if I wanted to take the entire baler. So far I'm striking out finding anything closer on the internet - even all state ag said they didn't have a gearbox available.


I would think you could get the gearbox shipped for around $125.00. But it sure would be nice if you could just find a way to drag the whole thing back or at least take off every part you can. Knotters, plunger, needles, gearbox Tucker fingers and shaft I would try and get it all as you already are finding out parts are getting hard to find if not almost impossible for the baler now. Is that 6.5 hours 1 way or round trip?


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## Maxpower (Nov 28, 2017)

Might check with these guys http://kaddatzequipment.com/homethey shipped me a wheel to Michigan pretty reasonably.


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## MyDaughtersPony (Jun 12, 2016)

1 way ????


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## Ranger518 (Aug 6, 2016)

MyDaughtersPony said:


> 1 way ????


Yea that's a little far. Your best bet may be to just have the gear box shipped and anything else you need for it as of now. From the looks of it that baler could of been sitting there longer than we have been alive so who knows what is still good but luckley I'm sure the gear box is fine as it should be sealed up pretty good. If you just end up getting the gear box I would suggest you keep your eye out for a cheep parts baler close to you.


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## Ranger518 (Aug 6, 2016)

https://www.tractorpartsasap.com/used-new-holland-66-baler-parts-eq-24118.html

Just got a email from them saying they have there used parts baler ready to go and was scrolling threw them and it shows they have 2 NH 66 balers And both in the photo have a gear box on them.


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## MyDaughtersPony (Jun 12, 2016)

I saw that one also ranger... I contacted them and they said they didn't have a gearbox... Guess the guy I talked to doesn't know what he's talking about ????


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## Ranger518 (Aug 6, 2016)

MyDaughtersPony said:


> I saw that one also ranger... I contacted them and they said they didn't have a gearbox... Guess the guy I talked to doesn't know what he's talking about ????


 Yeah I guess so or maybe they have already sold them both and have not updated their pictures but I kind of doubt a new Holland 66 Baler gearbox is a hot commodity ????????‍♂


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## MyDaughtersPony (Jun 12, 2016)

Hahahaha ???? probably not so much. I'm checking again.


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## MyDaughtersPony (Jun 12, 2016)

Anyone care to take a guess at what I could get if I scrapped the baler.


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## kyfarmboy (Feb 11, 2014)

I bet you could get the gearbox shipped through fastenal cheap. I shipped a set of steam engine wheels that's weighed over 700 pounds from Kentucky to Wisconsin for 175 bucks. But if your planning on keeping the baler if driving down is possible for the 450 deal I'd get all the needles, knotters, wheels and tires drivelines etc. Someday you may buy a tractor and want to convert yours back to pto.


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## Ranger518 (Aug 6, 2016)

Scrap yard you would be lucky to get $100 for one. The best thing to do with old equipment like that is the part it out online piece by piece If you consider it not worth fixing. steel was like $170.00 a ton last week.


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## MyDaughtersPony (Jun 12, 2016)

Thanks for the info


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## 8350HiTech (Jul 26, 2013)

Ranger518 said:


> Scrap yard you would be lucky to get $100 for one. The best thing to do with old equipment like that is the part it out online piece by piece If you consider it not worth fixing. steel was like $170.00 a ton last week.


So you're saying it weighs only 1200 pounds?


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## MyDaughtersPony (Jun 12, 2016)

I read brand new it was 2,500 lbs


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## Ranger518 (Aug 6, 2016)

8350HiTech said:


> So you're saying it weighs only 1200 pounds?


I have no idea what it would weigh but figured it only weigh about 1,500-2,000 and if they take out deductions for it still having tires, oil, wood, plastic or whatever like they do here it would realistically bring around $100.00 but I may be off a little so it might bring $200.00 at the most still not much money 1 knotter is worth more than that I bet.


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## dvcochran (Oct 1, 2017)

MyDaughtersPony said:


> You can't tell from this angle but one of those noses is bent.. Probably not a good thing. Also... We tried to remove the plunger as you can see we disconnected it... The manual says to pull it out of the bale chamber... It keeps getting stuck... I'm guessing the further down the chamber it goes the less it's worn... Any ideas on how to get it out?


Our Ford 532 had rails on the sides of the forming box where the plunger feeds material in. To remove the plunger you had to remove the side rails.

I have never ran a self powered baler. Do you adjust baler speed by engine speed or can you change the pulley speed somehow? What horsepower is the engine?

We originally ran the 532 with an 8N. It was a PITA without a live clutch. And would bog the tractor in heavy hay.


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## dvcochran (Oct 1, 2017)

MyDaughtersPony said:


> It has sheared before but when it broke the last time last year.. When I believe the gear box blew up.. I don't believe the flywheel shear bolt sheared. As a matter of fact it didn't because I had to take out the entact shear bolt to remove the flywheel. So whatever happened happened without shearing the flywheel shear bolt.


I have heard of this happening a lot; a shear bolt will shear and gets replaced with a grade 8 bolt which is Much stronger, so it will not protect the baler drivetrain like the original shear bolt would. Sounds similar to your condition. Just spit balling.


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## Ranger518 (Aug 6, 2016)

dvcochran said:


> I have heard of this happening a lot; a shear bolt will shear and gets replaced with a grade 8 bolt which is Much stronger, so it will not protect the baler drivetrain like the original shear bolt would. Sounds similar to your condition. Just spit balling.


I have always been told that grade 8 bolts is what u want to use for shear protection do to the the tensel strength is stronger and it will break faster and easer than a standard grade 5 which will bend and is acuatley harder to brake in a shear situation.


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## dvcochran (Oct 1, 2017)

MyDaughtersPony said:


> Thanks for the info


FWIW, I think it would be a pretty tall order to convert a baler to self-powered unless you were going to the exact same baler because of all the belting and pulley mounting, etc...

If you are seriously thinking of replacing the baler will you need to stay self-powered?


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## MyDaughtersPony (Jun 12, 2016)

Yes. That's why I'm trying to get this one going...


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## MyDaughtersPony (Jun 12, 2016)

dvcochran said:


> Our Ford 532 had rails on the sides of the forming box where the plunger feeds material in. To remove the plunger you had to remove the side rails.
> I have never ran a self powered baler. Do you adjust baler speed by engine speed or can you change the pulley speed somehow? What horsepower is the engine?
> We originally ran the 532 with an 8N. It was a PITA without a live clutch. And would bog the tractor in heavy hay.


Yes I adjust baler speed with engine speed. To be completely honest with you... I pretty much killed my baler. In my ignorance I was running the engine 3/4 to full speed not realizing this was way way way to fast... I was pounding the hell out of it... Once Larry came and and taught me what speed it should be running I started counting and timing it up. But yes you control baler speed with engine speed.


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## dvcochran (Oct 1, 2017)

Ranger518 said:


> I have always been told that grade 8 bolts is what u want to use for shear protection do to the the tensel strength is stronger and it will break faster and easer than a standard grade 5 which will bend and is acuatley harder to brake in a shear situation.


It makes sense in theory. A simple scratch test would give you an idea of the hardness of the manufacturers shear bolt. Usually color will also, but not always. A grade 8 may snap due to its hardness from a hard shock, but if it is a continuous dragging type of overload it would not shear when the baler needs it to causing who knows what, (heat, added wear, etc..


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## MyDaughtersPony (Jun 12, 2016)

Ranger518 said:


> I have always been told that grade 8 bolts is what u want to use for shear protection do to the the tensel strength is stronger and it will break faster and easer than a standard grade 5 which will bend and is acuatley harder to brake in a shear situation.


I'm pretty sure I did a grade 8 bolt under someones recommendation.


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## dvcochran (Oct 1, 2017)

MyDaughtersPony said:


> Yes I adjust baler speed with engine speed. To be completely honest with you... I pretty much killed my baler. In my ignorance I was running the engine 3/4 to full speed not realizing this was way way way to fast... I was pounding the hell out of it... Once Larry came and and taught me what speed it should be running I started counting and timing it up. But yes you control baler speed with engine speed.


I can see where engine speed could be a factor, but I would think if everything was working as it should have been, engine speed alone would not have caused your failure. I will be the jerk that reiterates the need to find the original problem(s), especially if you spend $$$ on a used and unknown gearbox.

It may be in the thread somewhere but what do you pull your baler with? Are you cutting with a sickle bar mower?


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## MyDaughtersPony (Jun 12, 2016)

dvcochran said:


> I can see where engine speed could be a factor, but I would think if everything was working as it should have been, engine speed alone would not have caused your failure. I will be the jerk that reiterates the need to find the original problem(s), especially if you spend $$$ on a used and unknown gearbox.
> It may be in the thread somewhere but what do you pull your baler with? Are you cutting with a sickle bar mower?


I had been pulling with a Farmall 200 but more recently with a Farmall M. I have had a neighbor cut a couple times with a mower conditioner but I usually cut it with a sickle bar.


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## MyDaughtersPony (Jun 12, 2016)

Nothing crashed as far as the wad board and plunger or the needles. It was just a loud bang...at the time I was running the baler at the appropriate speed.


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## dvcochran (Oct 1, 2017)

If your fields are fairly flat 38 horsepower should pull some pto powered square balers. An 8N is about 30 horsepower. May have to drop a gear. I would see what the mfg. recommends. That would give you tons more options.


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## MyDaughtersPony (Jun 12, 2016)

Fields are flat flat.


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## Ray 54 (Aug 2, 2014)

As per the comment about a slip clutch, I have never seen one. The belts slip, some of the talk your baler makes. The chirping of the belts says slow down before you break a shear bolt.

Nothing like getting the engine up against the governor and popping bales out. See how long you can judge the windrow and keep chugging along, as you adjust speed with tractor throttle.

I does look like the engine is rather new compared to the baler it self. I am sure things last better if your not running it to much faster than what the factory used.


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## rankrank1 (Mar 30, 2009)

$450 in parts for the old 66, while not really unreasonable, would certainly have me putting that money towards moving on to a better baler and NOT fixing the 66. I personally would look for a New Holland model 67S, 69, or 268, 269, 270, 271 or 273 model numbers. On a good buy you might luck into one of these in the $500 or so range. Only way I fix that old 66 is if I luck into some free parts which have been out there at times for the taking or alternatively parts I can buy at approximately 0.06 per pound (or $6 per 100 lbs of iron weight ). Even then about $200 maximum would cap what I would willingly spend on parts for a lowly 66, Frankly a whole intact 66 baler will not bring $150 in scrap weight at the scrapyard

Even a 68 is a significant upgrade to your 66 but I would skip the 68 (and I even own one of these).

While these other NH model numbers I listed above are also pretty old, they are so much more modern in so many respects compared to the lowly 66. The 66 parts pretty much only fit the 66 while many parts on the slightly newer balers have more parts that interchange. The 66 being a unicorn so to speak makes it much harder to find parts for since most things only fit it plus it has been obsolete for so long that most have been scrapped.

Keep your engine from the 66 and retro-fit it to any NH baler you ultimately end up with but you easily have enough hp to bale PTO powered with the M it would just not be as easy to bale like it is with your engine powered unit. You have to rake your windrows to suit 1st gear at throttle wide open when operating PTO powered baler as the ole M would be too fast in any other gear besides 1st and pushing in the clutch is not an option to slow down to let baler catch up either when baler gets crowded.


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## Red Bank (Apr 28, 2019)

I just read this thread from the beginning and so I will add my comments. First it doesn’t matter how much hay you are doing and what you are baling with. You are right it’s a hobby. Second I am pulling for you to fix this baler and become the resident 66 expert for anyone else that has one. If you need to go on a road trip to get parts go for it. Load the family up and go get the parts you need. There is no price for memories. Third the pictures of the baler are great and the baler looks to be in pretty good shape. I understand the economics that others are suggesting but if you have to buy a newer baler and potentially a newer tractor then the price of pick your parts for $450 is a steal.


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## r82230 (Mar 1, 2016)

IDK about the 6.5 hour trip, are you driving around Lake Michigan or taking a 'cruise' on the USS Badger? If taking the Badger, you will need to include the vacation/cruise time as a given (reducing your cost ). Taking the Badger cruise is one of the many 'cruises' I took my wife on for out 25th wedding anniversary (took her on some duck boat cruises in the Wisconsin Dells, a cruise out to Picture Rocks and one to Mackinaw Island on that trip). They don't call me thrifty for nothing. 

Larry


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## MyDaughtersPony (Jun 12, 2016)

If we went we'd drive "around" the lake. I'm still on the fence on what to do... I'm sure my dad wants to try and fix it as he gets emotionally attached to things... I'm slightly leaning towards dismantling and selling the parts. I'd hire out the baling part in the mean time. Then regrouping with another slightly less old NH baler. Trying it with the M until I am able to get a better tractor. I really appreciate everyone's insight and opinions it is very helpful.


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## swmnhay (Jun 13, 2008)

MyDaughtersPony said:


> I'm pretty sure I did a grade 8 bolt under someones recommendation.


Sounds like by putting a grade 8 bolt in you found the weakest point and it wasn't the shear bolt.


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## MyDaughtersPony (Jun 12, 2016)

It seems that you are probably correct... Shear bolt 1 gear box 0


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## MyDaughtersPony (Jun 12, 2016)

It makes sense since nothing jumped time or crashed... would over feeding the baler with hay caused it to bog down...? And if the flywheel bolt doesn't shear cause the gear box to do what it did??


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## VA Haymaker (Jul 1, 2014)

99% sure the shear bolts on my JD 348, flywheel and knotter are grade 8.

NH shear bolts are a mystery - so I simply use NH - they are cheap enough.

Biggest thing that eliminated breaking shear bolts on our New Holland 68 was/is run it full out at 540 PTO rpms.


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## stack em up (Mar 7, 2013)

MyDaughtersPony said:


> It makes sense since nothing jumped time or crashed... would over feeding the baler with hay caused it to bog down...? And if the flywheel bolt doesn't shear cause the gear box to do what it did??


Overfeeding should just slip the slip clutch, unless that wasn't working....


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## MyDaughtersPony (Jun 12, 2016)

I have the bolt still... I'll see if I can ID or get any idea of what grade it is.


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## MyDaughtersPony (Jun 12, 2016)

I do know that it hated to be overfed. Where is the clutch that would slip? Can I check to see if it's working or not?


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## stack em up (Mar 7, 2013)

leeave96 said:


> 99% sure the shear bolts on my JD 348, flywheel and knotter are grade 8.
> NH shear bolts are a mystery - so I simply use NH - they are cheap enough.
> Biggest thing that eliminated breaking shear bolts on our New Holland 68 was/is run it full out at 540 PTO rpms.


I don't recall I've ever seen a shear bolt be a grade 8. Most are grade 2 that actually have no markings on the head. I may be wrong, never been around a Deere baler.


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## Ranger518 (Aug 6, 2016)

leeave96 said:


> 99% sure the shear bolts on my JD 348, flywheel and knotter are grade 8.
> 
> NH shear bolts are a mystery - so I simply use NH - they are cheap enough.
> 
> Biggest thing that eliminated breaking shear bolts on our New Holland 68 was/is run it full out at 540 PTO rpms.


Yea I bought some shear bolts for my baler at John Deere and they were grade 8 also.


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## stack em up (Mar 7, 2013)

MyDaughtersPony said:


> I do know that it hated to be overfed. Where is the clutch that would slip? Can I check to see if it's working or not?


Slip clutch should be the linings that are between the flywheel and hub where the shear bolt goes thru. Part of pre season maintenance should be making sure the slip clutch is working. I know, hindsight is 20/20


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## MyDaughtersPony (Jun 12, 2016)

Hahaha yep. Do I have to open it up? How can I test it?


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## stack em up (Mar 7, 2013)

When the shear bolt shears, the flywheel should keep turning without the shear hub turning as well. If it all keeps turning, slip clutch isn’t slipping


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## MyDaughtersPony (Jun 12, 2016)

Oh ok. I understand. It's kind of hard to test with it not together...


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## r82230 (Mar 1, 2016)

Not certain, but he has an engine/belt driven fly wheel type baler (non-PTO). So when shear bolt breaks, engine just keeps turning the fly wheel. I don't know about a slip clutch, is it possible there is none and it uses the belts slipping instead of a slip clutch? On the balers (JD 14t, JD 24t & NH 5070) that I'm aware of the slip clutch is BEFORE the fly wheel, his would have to be AFTER the fly if my thinking is correct.

I have seen baler in question first hand, but don't remember this detail.

Larry


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## MyDaughtersPony (Jun 12, 2016)

I'll take more pictures when I get home.


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## stack em up (Mar 7, 2013)

r82230 said:


> Not certain, but he has an engine/belt driven fly wheel type baler (non-PTO). So when shear bolt breaks, engine just keeps turning the fly wheel. I don't know about a slip clutch, is it possible there is non, and it uses the belts slipping instead of a slip clutch? On the balers (JD 14t, JD 24t & NH 5070) that I'm aware of the slip clutch is BEFORE the fly wheel, his would have to be AFTER the fly if my thinking is correct.
> 
> I have seen baler in question first hand, but don't remember this detail.
> 
> Larry


I really have no clue how an engine driven baler is driven on the flywheel. I know on balers I've used, if the shear pin shears, the PTO keeps turning but the baler does not.


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## MyDaughtersPony (Jun 12, 2016)

The spot the bolt goes through the flywheel it also goes through the "neck" before the gear box. This neck part spins in a circle. If the bolt shears the flywheel would continue to spin and the neck that transfers power to the gear box should stop spinning. I don't see anything that externally looks like a slip clutch... Other than the bolt that connects the flywheel to the neck part that connects to the gear box.


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## stack em up (Mar 7, 2013)

Looked up the parts breakdown, does not show a slip lining. Was thinking maybe it would have something similar to this.


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## MyDaughtersPony (Jun 12, 2016)

I don't see anything like that near the flywheel and gearbox. I think the only protection is the shear bolt.


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## Shetland Sheepdog (Mar 31, 2011)

Makes sense, as the baler is driven by the flywheel on an engine driven baler, while the flywheel is just along for the ride on a PTO driven baler, and the slip clutch is part of the PTO driveline!


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## stack em up (Mar 7, 2013)

Once I started snooping around I seen that the belts actually wrap around the flywheel. I guess I had something else pictured in my minds eye. Not sure what but something else.


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## rankrank1 (Mar 30, 2009)

No way would I personally use a grade 8 bolt in a "New Holland" brand baler as the primary flywheel shear bolt. First it is not clear what the New Holland bolts even are. They are cheap enough that there is no reason not to purchase the specific spec bolt from NH that shears when and exactly like it should and keep an ample supply on hand.

If for any reason I was baling and the dealer was closed and I ran out of shear bolts late in the day or on a weekend then I would easily feel confident using a grade 2 bolt (smooth no markings on the head) in a pinch to get by for the remaining portion of the day.

If that did not work then I might risk trying a grade 5 bolt (3 marks on the bolt head) but only after doing an improvised file test and a hacksaw test on the remnants of a leftover proper spec New Holland bolt to attempt get a feel for how the proper spec bolt cut with a file and how it cut with a hacksaw and compare that to doing the same on a common grade 5 bolt and compare by human feel. Not exactly a precise science but better than doing nothing and simply slapping a bolt in there blindly. Alternatively one could even try drilling the remnants of a NH spec bolt with a common high speed drill bit and comparing to drilling common hardware store bolts. Grade 2 or Grade 5 bolts are usually drill-able. Trying to drill a grade 8 bolt is really really tough to nearly impossible to drill with cheap bits.

Putting a grade 8 (5 marks or 6 marks on the bolt head) in there from the getgo sounds like the old geniuses who kept blowing fuses in their fuse panel in their house so they decided to put in a copper penny in the panel to fix the problem cause they was out of fuses and then wondered why they had an electrical fire or their house burned down.

A fuse or shear bolt is designed to be the weakest link so as to protect other more expensive parts.


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## MyDaughtersPony (Jun 12, 2016)

I ran out of time today. I'll get to the barn and figure out what grade bolt I had in there... At this point I'm almost hoping it's a grade 8... If it's not and this still happened ????????????????????


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## swmnhay (Jun 13, 2008)

Have no idea if this is correct but these are grade 2 listed for a 66 baler
https://www.ebay.com/itm/142058407418?ul_ref=https%253A%252F%252Frover.ebay.com%252Frover%252F1%252F711-213727-13078-0%252F2%253Fmpre%253Dhttp%25253A%25252F%25252Fwww.ebay.com%25252Fitm%25252Flike%25252F142058407418%2526itemid%253D142058407418%2526targetid%253D4580977762194091%2526device%253Dt%2526adtype%253D%25257Badtype%25257D%2526googleloc%253D%2526poi%253D%2526campaignid%253D301076561%2526adgroupid%253D1238050208079596%2526rlsatarget%253Dpla-4580977762194091%2526abcId%253D1129776%2526merchantid%253D51291%2526query%253Dshear%252520bolt%252520for%252520NH%25252066%252520small%252520square%252520baler%2526msclkid%253D9f45101320d71f9e129e4cf4ea09f265%2526srcrot%253D711-213727-13078-0%2526rvr_id%253D1982622643114%2526rvr_ts%253De9709b8616a0ac1e2915295cfffc9876


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## MyDaughtersPony (Jun 12, 2016)

I'll look and see what I had in it when I get home from work.


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## r82230 (Mar 1, 2016)

I forgot that I had a copy of the owners manual on my computer (maybe a thanks to Mike ). One of the reasons that I got my hands on this manual was to find out the strokes per minute (SPM) the baler was supposed to be operated at. MDP, was running a 'little' to fast, baler almost looked like an unbalance washing machine dancing across the field, at well over 100-120 SPM (baler is designed for 70 SPM).

Thinking about this baler being ran in overdrive, the original motor was replaced. Perhaps the original had the governor set to limit engine speed to 70 SPM and the replacement motor wasn't. Could it be might be a question that someone could help MDP on doing if possible.

Anyhow on page 10 of manual it tells of shear bolt requirements (common soft machine bolts, is the terms used, available at hardware store). Someone smarter than me needs to figure out are they talking grade 2 perhaps?

Page 13 speaks of belt tensioning and NOT to use any belt dressing. IIRC, belt dressing makes belts less likely to slip (I was much younger when my Dad ran the feed mill and silage blower via belt off the old Farmall H, that's the only time I remember using 'belt dressing'). BUT it does mention using talcum powder (which could help belts operate similar to a slip clutch, I'm guessing :huh.

Page 14 has the instructions for removal of the plunger, as an FYI.

HTH

Larry


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## MyDaughtersPony (Jun 12, 2016)

Thanks Larry! The day my dad and I were tearing the baler apart we were reading the manual while waiting for our breakfast. I was tempted to hook a rope around it and pull it out with the tractor... Dad didn't think that was smart so we didn't... Haha. I'm really curious to the grade of bolt I had in the flywheel... I'll check first thing after work.


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## MyDaughtersPony (Jun 12, 2016)

What grade???


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## Aaroncboo (Sep 21, 2014)

5. Is that from big r? Lol


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## MyDaughtersPony (Jun 12, 2016)

What do you mean?


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## MyDaughtersPony (Jun 12, 2016)

Indentation... Where it should have broke if it was a grade 2... Am I right?


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## stack em up (Mar 7, 2013)

Yes, a grade 2 shear bolt will shear at the shoulder. They are also a much softer bolt.


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## Aaroncboo (Sep 21, 2014)

We have Big R farm stores by us, like Tractor Supply. only place that I have ever been that colored their nuts and bolts by grade


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## MyDaughtersPony (Jun 12, 2016)

It was either TSC or family farm and home.


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## Farmerbrown2 (Sep 25, 2018)

That grade 5 is a lot to strong that could have been part of the problem. The other problem could possibly the baler was running to fast that is a fairly new motor. I would think max baler rpm would be 540 maybe even less. I think a farmall C only spins about 485 rpm just something else to think about.


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## MyDaughtersPony (Jun 12, 2016)

I was counting the strokes and adjusted the throttle to get it running about 66 strokes per minute. At the time of the crash I am pretty confident I was running it at the appropriate speed. I do remember I was trying to feather in a giant section of a window. And the tines gulped in a big clump and then bang!!! If this baler gets running again... Grade 2 it is!


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## dvcochran (Oct 1, 2017)

MyDaughtersPony said:


> Hahaha yep. Do I have to open it up? How can I test it?


If it is a slip clutch with several bolts on springs around the perimeter or one big nut in the middle, I back them off, counting how many turns I make, until the clutch slips. Then set it back where it was. It is not uncommon for a clutch to freeze and not work on equipment that is not used frequently.


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## bool (Mar 14, 2016)

MyDaughtersPony said:


> I was counting the strokes and adjusted the throttle to get it running about 66 strokes per minute. At the time of the crash I am pretty confident I was running it at the appropriate speed. I do remember I was trying to feather in a giant section of a window. And the tines gulped in a big clump and then bang!!! If this baler gets running again... Grade 2 it is!


There is your answer. Momentary overload that would have sheared a grade 2 shear bolt. The shear bolt in use was grade 5 so it was not the weakest link it should have been. So the baler found the weakest link, and it was the main gearbox.

So if you replace the gearbox you will be good to go. There must be a parts machine a reasonable distance from you. And make sure the main drive belts can slip.

Next time you go haymaking, try harder to keep the windrows even in size. If you have big lumps, spread them out along the windrow more. When my father was live he used to go round with a pitchfork evening up the windrows while I baled.

Roger


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