# Drag type bale accumulator suggestions.



## Ranger518 (Aug 6, 2016)

I am getting ready to build a small square bale accumulator that I would like to pull behind my baler but would also like to be able to pull it behind a ATV or truck if need be. So with that said what type of drag accumulator seams to work the best one that the bales drop out of the baler into the accumulator or one that drop bales onto ground and then go into the accumulator. Just looking for people that use them and what to good and bad if each is.


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## Ranger518 (Aug 6, 2016)

This is what I got to work with anybody ever seen this type of accumulator? I have planes on cutting the front 6’ or so off and rebuilding it to be pulled behind baler and would also like to have the option to pull it behind truck or atv if I need to in smaller fields.


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## LukeS (Feb 24, 2015)

I have always wondered, Wouldn't it wreck the bottoms of the bales to drag on the ground. I know guys use them all the time but I would still think it would wreck them.


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## Aaroncboo (Sep 21, 2014)

I was thinking of buying one a while ago and then I read somewhere that they don't work really well on unlevel ground Bales could get snagged in dips so you have to have a really flat field. whether that's true or not I don't know but it seems plausible and being is my fields are not flat at all I just stick with my thrower


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## Vol (Jul 5, 2009)

LukeS said:


> I have always wondered, Wouldn't it wreck the bottoms of the bales to drag on the ground. I know guys use them all the time but I would still think it would wreck them.


It all depends on your field condition and mowing height. If you have a good stand of grass and leave 4" of stubble, it hardly seems to make much of a difference on the bales on the drag accumulators that I have seen. I would not hesitate to use one here, but if you lived in a wet damp area, it might not work as well....but I do not know for sure.

Regards, Mike


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## Vol (Jul 5, 2009)

Ranger518 said:


> This is what I got to work with anybody ever seen this type of accumulator? I have planes on cutting the front 6' or so off and rebuilding it to be pulled behind baler and would also like to have the option to pull it behind truck or atv if I need to in smaller fields.


It puts me in mind of the old Welco accumulators.

Regards, Mike

https://www.purplewave.com/auction/150715/item/J6567


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## Ranger518 (Aug 6, 2016)

All my land has been Precision leveled is flat and smooth. I have been using a push type accumulator that attaches to my loader and i have pushed bales all over with it turned them over and they look the same as a bale that just dropped out of the baler so that is a non issue for me just wondering what style seams to work best behind a baler.


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## Vol (Jul 5, 2009)

Here is a good pic of a nice stand of grass with bales being gathered with a drag accumulator. You can see that the grass is kind of laid over creating a nice carpet to drag upon.

Regards, Mike


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## KS John (Aug 6, 2018)

Ranger518 said:


> I am getting ready to build a small square bale accumulator that I would like to pull behind my baler but would also like to be able to pull it behind a ATV or truck if need be. So with that said what type of drag accumulator seams to work the best one that the bales drop out of the baler into the accumulator or one that drop bales onto ground and then go into the accumulator. Just looking for people that use them and what to good and bad if each is.


I have a Haymaster that looks just like the one in the second photo. I an going to make a mount to pull it behind my 575 this spring. I works fine, but the bales hang in the outside frame if you happen to be in a turn when the bale hits. I think a piece of flat iron along the bottom edge will do wonders.

Good luck and let us see what you come up with.


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## Vol (Jul 5, 2009)

Ranger, I would talk with our people that use the Parrish drag accumulator as I have heard good things about it. I think that like most accumulators that your biggest problems occur while turning. That is why i always go around my fields about 4-6 times(dependent upon outline) and then gather the inside by back and forth after baling the perimeter with my Kuhns.

Regards, Mike


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## LukeS (Feb 24, 2015)

So it probably wouldn't work well on alfalfa cuz that's not as smooth as grass??


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## Vol (Jul 5, 2009)

LukeS said:


> So it probably wouldn't work well on alfalfa cuz that's not as smooth as grass??


It would not work as well as it does on grass that is for sure as the alfalfa stands are usually not as thick as the grass in the pic.

Regards, Mike


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## paoutdoorsman (Apr 23, 2016)

I had a Parrish system that I used for grasses and straw. Never attempted it in alfalfa. It worked well when making a nice firm 36" bale, and the ground was smooth and level. If making shorter bales, or crossing uneven ground, you can have some alignment and guidance issues. The slippery the crop, the better. There was never any sign of damage to the bale or the stand from scooting the bales on the ground. Directly behind the baler would be best - one less trip across the field, and the obstacles are fewer farther between.


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## glasswrongsize (Sep 15, 2015)

I pull a Rafter M behind my baler; it is substantially similar to the red on in the OP. My ground is NOT smooth and/or level. I don't have a problem unless crossing a ditch. Small swags and rolling ground does not bother it at all.

I changed the hitch as I was missing some bales going into the chute while turning very tight...now, I might miss a few a year while turning. I have found that legume crops work even better than grass hay; grass hay needs to be a dense bale.

The issues I have are in heavy hay; I must make a double windrow; I can't use my setup with single windrows as the accumulator follows and drops the grab of bales so that it is in the way of the tractor on the next round. Also have to be careful the pattern I bale; the accumulator drops the grab offset-to-the baler and, if doubling back, will drop a grab right next to the next windrow. It can be baled going one direction (tractor on opposite side of grab), but no the other. I reckon, if someone was clearing field while another was baling, it could be avoided.

I cut @4-5" stubble and don't see ANY damage to the bottom of the bales; I CAN tell they have been dragged on the ground as all of the hay in the bale is folded back from being dragged. The "damage" is shallow and the strings don't even touch the ground for the most part.

Mark


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## Ranger518 (Aug 6, 2016)

If you get time can you take a photo of how you modified the front of your accumulator? Also if you can tell me how many inches wide the opinening is and how how much it narrows down before it goes into the basket.



glasswrongsize said:


> I pull a Rafter M behind my baler; it is substantially similar to the red on in the OP. My ground is NOT smooth and/or level. I don't have a problem unless crossing a ditch. Small swags and rolling ground does not bother it at all.
> 
> I changed the hitch as I was missing some bales going into the chute while turning very tight...now, I might miss a few a year while turning. I have found that legume crops work even better than grass hay; grass hay needs to be a dense bale.
> 
> ...


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## Vol (Jul 5, 2009)

This is a very interesting drag accumulator made overseas. It is a Tubeline 10 bale(8+2), but what makes it so interesting to me is the pivoting chute that works off the tow bar. I like how the chute tapers down also. This appears like an excellent way to combat bale loss/jams on tight turns.

Regards, Mike


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## Trillium Farm (Dec 18, 2014)

Vol said:


> This is a very interesting drag accumulator made overseas. It is a Tubeline 10 bale(8+2), but what makes it so interesting to me is the pivoting chute that works off the tow bar. I like how the chute tapers down also. This appears like an excellent way to combat bale loss/jams on tight turns.
> 
> Regards, Mike


It's not made overseas, but it's made in Elmira Ontario


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## Ranger518 (Aug 6, 2016)

Yea I have been looking at that accumulator it was originally a netherexe and was bought out by agway and then changer to Tubeline from what I have seen. And I do like the design and am considering building it like that do to I think is will work better in turns do to the Turing chute.



Vol said:


> This is a very interesting drag accumulator made overseas. It is a Tubeline 10 bale(8+2), but what makes it so interesting to me is the pivoting chute that works off the tow bar. I like how the chute tapers down also. This appears like an excellent way to combat bale loss/jams on tight turns.
> 
> Regards, Mike


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## Vol (Jul 5, 2009)

Trillium Farm said:


> It's not made overseas, but it's made in Elmira Ontario


My bad....good to know. I saw the video on Agri-Market and just took the wrong impression from the video heading. Thanks Trillium.

Regards, Mike


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## Vol (Jul 5, 2009)

Ranger518 said:


> Yea I have been looking at that accumulator it was originally a netherexe and was bought out by agway and then changer to Tubeline from what I have seen. And I do like the design and am considering building it like that do to I think is will work better in turns do to the Turing chute.


I noticed on Tractorhouse that there is a ad for one of the Tubelines in North Logan, Utah. It has a pic of the chute detached from the accumulator and it has been placed upside down so it might give you a better build understanding of the chute and how it attaches.

Regards, Mike


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## Trillium Farm (Dec 18, 2014)

Vol said:


> My bad....good to know. I saw the video on Agri-Market and just took the wrong impression from the video heading. Thanks Trillium.
> 
> Regards, Mike


Not a problem Mike, on that website it was easy to assume it was built in the UK


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## WileyGator (Jan 23, 2019)

Issues during baling going around corners were a big consideration for us when we were interested in purchasing an accumulator. At the time, Hoelscher and Bale Caddie were attached in two locations behind the baler on dolly wheels so the units always stayed parallel with balers chute, therefore not having any issues turning


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## broadriverhay (Jun 13, 2014)

With the Parrish Accumalator you need to shut off the baler in the turns at the end of the field. I bale about 3 or 4 rounds around the field then go up and down . The Accumalator comes with a modified bale shoot that has some angle attached to the bottom which holds the bale in place in the turns when the baler is not running so the bale doesn’t try to enter the Accumalator until the next bale pushes it off. I hope this makes sense. I have baled probably 50 to 60,000 bales using the Parrish. I really like the simplicity of it.


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## Ranger518 (Aug 6, 2016)

Thanks guys this has all been good info I like both the agway and parish style do to the attacheted chute I think it will help in turns. So I have decided to build one based off them more towards the agway do to how my accumulator it already close to it.


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## Ranger518 (Aug 6, 2016)

Been super busy and have not had time to do much but so far so good. I cut about 7’ off the front and and removed the center mounted wheels to relocate them towards the back.


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## broadriverhay (Jun 13, 2014)

You can call me if you have any questions about the Parrish if it will help. I sent Bigcountry pictures and measurements and he built a Parrish. He did a great job .


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## Ranger518 (Aug 6, 2016)

broadriverhay said:


> You can call me if you have any questions about the Parrish if it will help. I sent Bigcountry pictures and measurements and he built a Parrish. He did a great job .


Good deal thanks. I have talked with Bigcountry and got some pics of his as his did turn out reall well.


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## Ranger518 (Aug 6, 2016)

Got some time to work on it and got a lot done. So far so good now I got to start the chute and tong.


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## Aaroncboo (Sep 21, 2014)

Dang all you people with good welding and fabrication skills... Lol. One day I'll be that good... Looks awesome so far


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## Ranger518 (Aug 6, 2016)

Aaroncboo said:


> Dang all you people with good welding and fabrication skills... Lol. One day I'll be that good... Looks awesome so far


Thanks! I try I am self thought other then what I have learned on youtube. A little trial and error a little patients, and the right tools anybody can do it.


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## broadriverhay (Jun 13, 2014)

You learn to run a side grinder dang good before you learn to weld . When you get tired of grinding you will start to concentrate on being a better welder. I’m speaking from experience. Oh and one must learn to weld before their eyesight goes bad.


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## Ranger518 (Aug 6, 2016)

Getting there got the rear tires on and the chute brackets built. Now time to make the chute. One day I will learn to take photos the right way for this forum.


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## glasswrongsize (Sep 15, 2015)

Ranger518 said:


> If you get time can you take a photo of how you modified the front of your accumulator? Also if you can tell me how many inches wide the opinening is and how how much it narrows down before it goes into the basket.


Sorry took so long. I may have been a little misleading on the amount of modification. The mods were only to the hitches. I shortened the one on the accumulator so it's only about 8" (guessing) from the chute entry to the hitch-pin hole. I lengthened the baler hitch so that the hitch-pin hole is @ directly over where the bale hits the ground. What this done for me was allow the bale to still go into the chamber even if I am making a fair turn when the bale hits the ground. Previously, I was dropping bales out the side while going around near-90 deg zigs and zags in my field. One particular field (dad raked it...it's shaped like a paint spill), I finally unhooked the accumulator and baled on the ground, then pulled the accumulator by itself. After changing the pitch pivot point, I have have VERY few bales leak out the side while turning.

Probably too late to measurements, but chute is about 36" wide at the mouth and probably 2' at the back of he taper.

















Nothin fancy

Mark


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## Ranger518 (Aug 6, 2016)

glasswrongsize said:


> Sorry took so long. I may have been a little misleading on the amount of modification. The mods were only to the hitches. I shortened the one on the accumulator so it's only about 8" (guessing) from the chute entry to the hitch-pin hole. I lengthened the baler hitch so that the hitch-pin hole is @ directly over where the bale hits the ground. What this done for me was allow the bale to still go into the chamber even if I am making a fair turn when the bale hits the ground. Previously, I was dropping bales out the side while going around near-90 deg zigs and zags in my field. One particular field (dad raked it...it's shaped like a paint spill), I finally unhooked the accumulator and baled on the ground, then pulled the accumulator by itself. After changing the pitch pivot point, I have have VERY few bales leak out the side while turning.
> 
> Probably too late to measurements, but chute is about 36" wide at the mouth and probably 2' at the back of he taper.
> 
> ...


Thanks I like how you made your baler hitch I was thinking of building something similar but only under the chute.


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## Ranger518 (Aug 6, 2016)

Got the cute and hitch built. Now if drys out I am going to hook it to my truck and dump some bales into it before I finish welding it up to see if I need to change anything and if it works. In the meantime I am going to work on the basket by rebuilding and adding some spring mounts and springs for all the arms and latches.


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## Ranger518 (Aug 6, 2016)

I never posted a finished photo last year so here it is. I ran around 3,000 bales threw it last year pulling it behind my baler and it worked out pretty well after a few small adjustments. I also did build a hitch for it so I could pull it behind a Atv or truck but never used it other then testing it on a few bales. I just finished up painting it and a few custom decals should be good to go for a long time now.


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## Vol (Jul 5, 2009)

Very nice looking Ranger. Glad you got it done. I am sure all would enjoy a video of your accumulator in operation this summer.

Regards, Mike


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## Ranger518 (Aug 6, 2016)

Ok I get some video this year of it. I tried last year but being I do everything myself it was hard to try and film and bale at the same time.


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## paoutdoorsman (Apr 23, 2016)

Very nice Ranger!


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## Vol (Jul 5, 2009)

Ranger518 said:


> Ok I get some video this year of it. I tried last year but being I do everything myself it was hard to try and film and bale at the same time.


Know the feeling. 

Regards, Mike


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## Vol (Jul 5, 2009)

Ranger, does it work better with a set of dolly wheels in the center of the chute better than a caster wheel off each side of the chute?

Regards, Mike


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## Ranger518 (Aug 6, 2016)

Vol said:


> Ranger, does it work better with a set of dolly wheels in the center of the chute better than a caster wheel off each side of the chute?
> 
> Regards, Mike


Yea to me it seems to let me see, if I can explain this to make sense. When hooked to the baler when you make a sharp turn it seems to slowly turn the dolly wheel do to the tong of corse will turn on the hitch hooked to the baler and slowly start to turn the dolly wheels so it tracks behind the baler pretty well in sharp turns. To where with the caster wheels they don't have anything moving them they just free turn and seem to not follow the baler as well in sharp turns but I really did not play with the casters that much being I really was not impressed on how they were working. I guess is what I am trying to say with the Dolly it steers threw the corners bs with the casters just seem to turn.


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## r82230 (Mar 1, 2016)

Ranger518 said:


> Ok I get some video this year of it. I tried last year but being I do everything myself it was hard to try and film and bale at the same time.


Maybe you can 'borrow' one of Cy's tractors with GPS, IIRC he can even spent time on HT, while driving. :lol: 

Larry

PS I'm in the same boat (not having that accurate GPS), maybe even a little jealous of Cy. 

PSS Nice job!!!


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## jettex (Jul 5, 2018)

Ranger518 will you post the video on Youtube or some where? I am thinking about building one from scratch.


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## Ranger518 (Aug 6, 2016)

jettex said:


> Ranger518 will you post the video on Youtube or some where? I am thinking about building one from scratch.


Yea I can I don't really have any videos of it working but I can take a video of it how works while it is in my barn if you would like. I could text or email you a video if you PM me your info. I have plans of having somebody video it this year in the field and I will try and get that loaded on YouTube.


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