# Froze up lug nuts - tips or tricks to get them off



## 32-0-0 (May 30, 2017)

I need to take off a rear tire on our Kawasaki mule but I can't get the lugs nuts loose. I've tried a breaker bar, breaker bar with a pipe extension and an impact wrench with absolutely no luck. I've been spraying them with penetrating oil for several days now but that hasn't helped either.

Anybody have any tricks to remove them?

Thanks,
Chris


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## carcajou (Jan 28, 2011)

A little heat will do the trick.


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## Northeast PA hay and beef (Jan 29, 2017)

Use big hammer. Hit bolts flat, should be enough to get rust to let go.


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## slowzuki (Mar 8, 2011)

Yep smack them, if that doesn’t work heat will. When they are seized really bad a bigger impact just takes the threads off.


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## glasswrongsize (Sep 15, 2015)

An old trick for frozen nuts that has never let me down: take a center punch ( decent one with a nice point) and center-punch the nut on each of its flats, This disrupts and spreads the metal in the nut. While on the subject, on bigger nuts, I might center punch it 2 or 3 times per flat (or whatever I can reach). When going back together, use new nuts. I know a lot of people will scoff like I did when I first heard of it; it works!

Mark


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## Hayjosh (Mar 24, 2016)

You haven't removed them because you haven't used heat. Take a torch (I just use a regular propane torch, like you can buy at Walmart), and get all the studs very hot. Then let it cool a bit. Heating and cooling causes the metal to expand and contract, and combined with penetrating oil you already had in there, this will break the rust loose. If you give it a few good hard smacks that will help too. But generally just heat on its own will take care of it.


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## slowzuki (Mar 8, 2011)

I usually reserve heat for last option as it wrecks the plating on the nut/bolt and sometimes the paint on the rim.



Hayjosh said:


> You haven't removed them because you haven't used heat. Take a torch (I just use a regular propane torch, like you can buy at Walmart), and get all the studs very hot. Then let it cool a bit. Heating and cooling causes the metal to expand and contract, and combined with penetrating oil you already had in there, this will break the rust loose. If you give it a few good hard smacks that will help too. But generally just heat on its own will take care of it.


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## Thumbtack (Jun 18, 2012)

All of the above should get it loose, but one question. Are you sure they aren't left hand threads?


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## 32-0-0 (May 30, 2017)

No, not left handed. I got them off...added heat and they surrendered.


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## Hayjosh (Mar 24, 2016)

slowzuki said:


> I usually reserve heat for last option as it wrecks the plating on the nut/bolt and sometimes the paint on the rim.


If it's so rusted on that it won't budge, then the plating on the nut/bolt is a moot point. I'm guessing if they're that bad too, that there's probably not a lot of great paint on the rim. But not wanting to bubble the paint is understandable. A small torch like what I described however doesn't really do anything to the surrounding area.


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## Farmineer95 (Aug 11, 2014)

Ever use one of these? I haven't but wondering if anyone else has.

http://www.theinductor.com/induction-heating-products/mini-ductor


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## paoutdoorsman (Apr 23, 2016)

A buddy had the Snap-On induction heater. It can/does work well in certain scenarios.


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## PaMike (Dec 7, 2013)

I have a small gas welding tip for my torch. Its slower, but keeps the heat right where you want it and you dont have all the issues with burnt paint. The induction heater looks great for the automotive world where there are tons of wiring and plastic that you dont want to melt...


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