# Tractor trailers, registration, farming type questions



## JD3430 (Jan 1, 2012)

I'm really at a crossroads with hay delivery. I'm delivering about 1400 RB's per year. I don't know if the "F-550/30' gooseneck" is the best way to go, OR do I need to go to a tractor trailer?? 
So many factors to consider! 
I have yet to see a BTO ship hay 9-10 tons at a time like I am currently doing, so that right there is telling me something. 
One of the biggest questions I have about owning a tractor trailer is if I am a "commercial farmer" and I do not live on a "family farm", can I get farm plates? I keep thinking the state will want to know "where is your farm?" and I don't have a farm.

Did any of you start with a gooseneck and go to a tractor trailer? 
What made you finally "graduate" to the big rig?


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## rjmoses (Apr 4, 2010)

How many bales and what sizes in that 9-10 tons are you hauling?

Ralph


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## JD3430 (Jan 1, 2012)

rjmoses said:


> How many bales and what sizes in that 9-10 tons are you hauling?
> 
> Ralph


20-22 4x5's. They weight 850-900lb a piece.
If I put 22 bales on the trailer, I'm fully loaded and usually at 36,500-37,500 on the scale. My truck is registered at 36,000, so I'm overweight. With 20 bales, I'm crossing scale about 35,000-36,000, which keeps me legal, but I'm not maximizing my trailer space. 
F-550 and trailer are 17,000 empty. 
I did some rough figures and even with a 45' trailer, I can carry 34 bales. I think the GCWR of that rig with 34 bales would be about 54,000lbs. (I can't go longer than 45'. Won't make it out of driveways and fields.)
34 bales means only 2 trips for every 3 trips with 550 and 22 bales
1400 bales = almost 70 trips with 550/gn 
1400 bales = 41 trips with tractor and 45' trailer.

So PART of the decision is, is 30) 25 mile trips to buyer going to pay for the bigger truck? I was figuring the truck and trailer would be about a 50k investment. I know that sounds high, but I want to include an aluminum trailer and fix up costs or the cost including buying something decent shape. Could be talked into a steel trailer if substantial savings. I don't want to buy old junk that needs a lot money put into tires, repairs, paint, deck, etc.


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## 8350HiTech (Jul 26, 2013)

You need to show your schedule F to get PA farm plates or stickers. They don't care whose land you're farming.


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## NewBerlinBaler (May 30, 2011)

I assume you already have a CDL so you're legal driving in PA at those weights.

A few years ago I looked into buying a Freightliner 106 cab/chassis and sticking a large goose behind it for the same reason you're considering it - to make fewer trips. Like you, I was looking to spend around $50K for the rig. Didn't do it for several reasons...

First the registration and insurance would run $4,500 - $5,000 / year. Second, maintenance costs on a medium duty truck are much higher than on a pickup - even a heavy duty pickup like you're running now. One tire can run $1,800, one tire! A while back another HT member posted that the water pump on his medium duty truck failed. He was doing the repair himself so no labor costs but the new water pump - just the part - at the Mack dealer was $2,400 (if I remember correctly).

IMHO, "real" trucks typically make economic sense for only for businesses that run them all day long using "truck drivers". For the rest of us, pickup trucks are the way to go.


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## JD3430 (Jan 1, 2012)

NewBerlinBaler said:


> I assume you already have a CDL so you're legal driving in PA at those weights.
> 
> A few years ago I looked into buying a Freightliner 106 cab/chassis a sticking a large goose behind it for the same reason you're considering it - to make fewer trips. Like you, I was looking to spend around $50K for the rig. Didn't do it for several reasons...
> 
> ...


I have a CDL and have logged over a million miles of driving and keep my med card current so yes, I'm good from that perspective. I haven't seen those kind of tire prices!!. Was just at my commercial truck tire place twice this week and I've found your average road tractor tires cost about 400 bucks. Registration is under $1,250 for 60K lbs. Insurance was about $1,000.
I do agree the repairs on that size truck can get expensive.


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## Lewis Ranch (Jul 15, 2013)

42 4x5 rolls will fit on a 53' step deck and 38 bales on a 48. How far are you having to haul?


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## JD3430 (Jan 1, 2012)

Lewis Ranch said:


> 42 4x5 rolls will fit on a 53' step deck and 38 bales on a 48. How far are you having to haul?


25-30 mile


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## SVFHAY (Dec 5, 2008)

Hi-Tech is right, schedule F will tell the tale.

If the length of Hall was 150 miles it would be an easy decision. 25 miles? I'm not so sure.

I used to run a medium duty truck and a short semi trailer outfit. The added cost of the semi wasn't worth the marginal gain in capacity.

If it were me, I would move up to 48 or 53 foot drop deck with a closed tandem. You really shouldn't need a spread axle for the weights you're hauling. Even if you have to redo some field approaches I think it would be worth your time.


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## endrow (Dec 15, 2011)

We used semis to haul hay out of the field. a lot of the high-end hay, gets delivered with a 25 foot trailer and a gooseneck, because quite often the customer doesn't want more than 4 to 5 ton of that at a time, due to the size of the check that would need to be written.. JD 3430 the question you bring up is something my son and I would often argue about. One thing I would bring up, this expense will probably not save you a ton because you probably will be keeping your existing pickup truck and just adding a truck


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## JD3430 (Jan 1, 2012)

SVFHAY said:


> Hi-Tech is right, schedule F will tell the tale.
> If the length of Hall was 150 miles it would be an easy decision. 25 miles? I'm not so sure.
> I used to run a medium duty truck and a short semi trailer outfit. The added cost of the semi wasn't worth the marginal gain in capacity.
> If it were me, I would move up to 48 or 53 foot drop deck with a closed tandem. You really shouldn't need a spread axle for the weights you're hauling. Even if you have to redo some field approaches I think it would be worth your time.


So the $64,000 question is, what is the investment cap? How much should someone in my position spend on such a set up? 30k, 50k, 70k? 
My wife kind of kids around with me that I should drive a pickup instead of a 550 around, then haul hay with a purpose-built hay truck. 
I'm getting a little more uncomfortable each haul with a 550 and Big Tex trailer loaded to its engineered limits and probably beyond. It'll handle it, but just like using a 70hp tractor to make round bales on hilly ground, you know you need to step up into something with more capability. 
I think my front axle on my Big Tex is overloaded.
But is the investment going to pay off? Of course it will in terms of peace of mind, but will it "pencil" only being used a few thousand miles/yr? Doesn't seem like it


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## Lewis Ranch (Jul 15, 2013)

You can get in a nicer truck and trailer for 20k in this part of the country. Trailer can be had for 8 and a nice truck for less than 12.


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## SVFHAY (Dec 5, 2008)

Endow has a good point. If your going to keep your current outfit it may be hard to justify both.

What is your delivery schedule? Is it so many tons a week/month? Can you haul a whole bunch at once? Maybe hiring it done would work.

I used to haul everything out of here and kept hired help to do farm work. Now I pay a lot of freight bills and my trucks sit a lot more, with very little farm labor. More profitable now and definitely much less stress.

Maybe you could hire a truck and driver like one day a month, move 3 loads and still haul a little with yours from time to time to keep contract filled.


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## JD3430 (Jan 1, 2012)

SVFHAY said:


> Endow has a good point. If your going to keep your current outfit it may be hard to justify both.
> 
> What is your delivery schedule? Is it so many tons a week/month? Can you haul a whole bunch at once? Maybe hiring it done would work.
> 
> ...


Those are great thoughts.
Typically, the buyer will tell me something like "I'll take 20 tons per week" or something like that.
Delivery starts in September and runs until all my hay is gone-usually March
All the BTO's have tractor trailers. I'm not a BTO, yet. Actually, I dont know what constitutes a BTO around here. LOL
I'm pretty sure a BTO here might be a small timer compared to Utah, Wyoming, etc.
I dont think I'd like the hiring out the shipping routine. I did that when I first started and it seemed like it was difficult for me and the trucker to sync our schedules up so I could load the same day he could truck


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## Teslan (Aug 20, 2011)

JD3430 said:


> Those are great thoughts.
> Typically, the buyer will tell me something like "I'll take 20 tons per week" or something like that.
> Delivery starts in September and runs until all my hay is gone-usually March
> All the BTO's have tractor trailers. I'm not a BTO, yet. Actually, I dont know what constitutes a BTO around here. LOL
> ...


A quick thought on hiring a truck and driver. The time you will save In not having to deliver yourself might make it easier to sync up to load a truck. Or if you get lucky and find a driver that you would allow to load himself or drop a trailer for you to load and then he pick it up to deliver the next day or whenever.


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## JD3430 (Jan 1, 2012)

Teslan said:


> A quick thought on hiring a truck and driver. The time you will save In not having to deliver yourself might make it easier to sync up to load a truck. Or if you get lucky and find a driver that you would allow to load himself or drop a trailer for you to load and then he pick it up to deliver the next day or whenever.


I was on your webpage. Is that your tractor/trailer, or is that a trucker you hire for shipping


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## Teslan (Aug 20, 2011)

JD3430 said:


> I was on your webpage. Is that your tractor/trailer, or is that a trucker you hire for shipping


A trucker the hay buyer has hired. Usually I make the buyer find transportation. If I they don't know anyone I have a couple guys that haul hay I give buyers the name and number of.


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## SVFHAY (Dec 5, 2008)

JD3430 said:


> Those are great thoughts.
> Typically, the buyer will tell me something like "I'll take 20 tons per week" or something like that.
> Delivery starts in September and runs until all my hay is gone-usually March
> All the BTO's have tractor trailers. I'm not a BTO, yet. Actually, I dont know what constitutes a BTO around here. LOL
> ...


Yeah, the reason it works for me is I'm loading at central location. Shop, livestock, house and so on are there so waiting for a truck to show isn't a problem. If I had to go meet them on location and wait in the pickup..... No thanks.

You may have the best delivery system for your situation. If you move to 3x then the load will be dense enough to take advantage of the extra capacity a semi offers.

You could transition in steps, pull your goose with a road tractor.


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## Teslan (Aug 20, 2011)

SVFHAY said:


> Yeah, the reason it works for me is I'm loading at central location. Shop, livestock, house and so on are there so waiting for a truck to show isn't a problem. If I had to go meet them on location and wait in the pickup..... No thanks.
> 
> You may have the best delivery system for your situation. If you move to 3x then the load will be dense enough to take advantage of the extra capacity a semi offers.
> 
> You could transition in steps, pull your goose with a road tractor.


I have found that the smaller the load of hay or sale the more time I spend waiting for people to show up. Semi loads usually right on time or early and don't get lost. 25 bis square loads usually on time. 8 bale loads can easily be 30 minutes late and kind of get lost. 2 bale loads get lost, an hour or more late or call to cancel after they are late.


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## JD3430 (Jan 1, 2012)

Luckily I don't have that problem.
I ship 95% of my hay.


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## Teslan (Aug 20, 2011)

JD3430 said:


> Luckily I don't have that problem.
> I ship 95% of my hay.


i don't see it really as a problem. I am happy I don't have to transport hay. Do you make money on the shipping part? Or is shipping just part of the cost and is expected where you are? Here when I had a truck to deliver I found people didn't want to pay me for delivery and the hay. If I raised the price of hay to reflect delivery I wouldn't get calls. But they generally don't have a problem paying someone else to haul. Weird I know. So I might as well let some hauler make some money then me waste time delivering and losing money on that part. I pretty much sell all my hay at the barn anyways. Really only the buyer of the hay on that semi picture needs delivery. She buys 5-6 semi loads a year. I sell maybe another semi load here and there. But mostly goose neck trailers of the hay buyers themselves.


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## JD3430 (Jan 1, 2012)

Teslan said:


> i don't see it really as a problem. I am happy I don't have to transport hay. Do you make money on the shipping part? Or is shipping just part of the cost and is expected where you are? Here when I had a truck to deliver I found people didn't want to pay me for delivery and the hay. If I raised the price of hay to reflect delivery I wouldn't get calls. But they generally don't have a problem paying someone else to haul. Weird I know. So I might as well let some hauler make some money then me waste time delivering and losing money on that part. I pretty much sell all my hay at the barn anyways. Really only the buyer of the hay on that semi picture needs delivery. She buys 5-6 semi loads a year. I sell maybe another semi load here and there. But mostly goose neck trailers of the hay buyers themselves.


Yeah I was talking about the "waiting on customers" problem. I wouldn't want to deal with that.
The cost of trucking is part of my overall business model. My primary buyers won't pick up my hay
I'm just guessing here, but if I had to pay a trucker to haul a 50'+ load of round bales, it would be $400. I'm basing that on what I was charged years ago when I didn't have a hay hauling setup.
So if I can get 38 bales on a 50' tractor trailer, it would take 37 trips to get all 1400 bales shipped.
37 x $400= $14,800/yr or $1,235/month.
So assuming all costs here: payments, registration, inspections, repairs,.,,under my scenario, would a farmer come out ahead owning a rig or subcontracting shipping. Of course a lot depends on amount spent on truck, how many repairs I can do myself, cost of repairs, etc.

Other positive factors to consider: owning a TT allows much greater flexibility. I can ship hay whenever I want. I can also haul my own equipment for repairs, or moving to a far away customer. If I went with non-farm tags, I could transport other people's equipment, crops, etc., but that's probably not going to happen for me.

Negative factors: owning a TT involves storage and sudden catastrophic breakdowns (truck blows a motor with a load of hay, etc)

Lots to consider.


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## PaMike (Dec 7, 2013)

If you are hauling a lot of your hay to the mushroom barns cant you get the guys that are bringing you all the muchroom soil to back haul bales for next to nothing? Cant you shove a bunch of round bales in a dump trailer after they unload the soil?


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## JD3430 (Jan 1, 2012)

PaMike said:


> If you are hauling a lot of your hay to the mushroom barns cant you get the guys that are bringing you all the muchroom soil to back haul bales for next to nothing? Cant you shove a bunch of round bales in a dump trailer after they unload the soil?


No there's no way that would work. Hahaha
The mushroom soil comes from a completely different source than my mushroom hay buyer


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## IH 1586 (Oct 16, 2014)

JD3430 said:


> No there's no way that would work. Hahaha


Because they said they won't, or have not tried yet? I've hauled in back of dump truck before.


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## 8350HiTech (Jul 26, 2013)

JD3430 said:


> No there's no way that would work. Hahaha


If it's a walking floor it would. Maybe not efficient but not "hahaha" either.

Of course I'm sure the schedule they want hay isn't the schedule they want to be hauling soil anyway.


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## endrow (Dec 15, 2011)

We haul local with 48 ft flatbeds usally with rounds go with 1 layer,, or if 2 layers only one wide on top layer .. I can. but hate two tie a load down 2 high and 2 wide .


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## 8350HiTech (Jul 26, 2013)

endrow said:


> We haul local with 48 ft flatbeds usally with rounds go with 1 layer,, or if 2 layers only one wide on top layer .. I can. but hate two tie a load down 2 high and 2 wide .


Why? The efficiency of hauling almost twice as much sure beats a few extra minutes to push a leaning bale back and retighten it.


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## JD3430 (Jan 1, 2012)

The mushroom soil hauler Wouldn't want anything to do with hauling around bales.

They have triaxle dumps and a short tractor/trailer dump.


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## JD3430 (Jan 1, 2012)

8350HiTech said:


> Why? The efficiency of hauling almost twice as much sure beats a few extra minutes to push a leaning bale back and retighten it.


You can't fix a leaning bale once you hit the road.
My guess is because he's felt the extreme stress of a "leaning load" as I have, too.
Not much fun.
I go 2 wide up top, but I load the bales wider on the bottom with a space in the middle to form a ledge for upper bales. 
Or maybe he does a 4x6' tall bale. Those are tippy.
Everyone has different situations and experiences


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## JD3430 (Jan 1, 2012)

.


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## 8350HiTech (Jul 26, 2013)

JD3430 said:


> You can't fix a leaning bale once you hit the road.
> My guess is because he's felt the extreme stress of a "leaning load" as I have, too.
> Not much fun.
> I go 2 wide up top, but I load the bales wider on the bottom with a space in the middle to form a ledge for upper bales.
> ...


Well, yeah, that's why you tighten the load down and then look it over and push any toward the center that you don't like the look of and retighten. Sometimes even snug it while holding it in with the loader. It's not like I was suggesting trying to fix something along the road.

My mulch bales usually sit for nearly a full year before they leave and they're going over 100 miles so it's not like we don't make sure they're on neatly before they go down the road.


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## JD3430 (Jan 1, 2012)

.


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## JD3430 (Jan 1, 2012)

Im doing that right now and believe me, I don't leave until the load it secure and tight, but with these awful PA roads we have, the loads can shift in transit. Even being very careful, I have had this happen. Round bales are a lot more unpredictable than big squares
It's sucks


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## endrow (Dec 15, 2011)

8350HiTech said:


> 8350HiTech said:
> 
> 
> > Why? The efficiency of hauling almost twice as much sure beats a few extra minutes to push a leaning bale back and retighten it.
> ...


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## endrow (Dec 15, 2011)

8350HiTech said:


> Well, yeah, that's why you tighten the load down and then look it over and push any toward the center that you don't like the look of and retighten. Sometimes even snug it while holding it in with the loader. It's not like I was suggesting trying to fix something along the road.
> 
> My mulch bales usually sit for nearly a full year before they leave and they're going over 100 miles so it's not like we don't make sure they're on neatly before they go down the road.


That would be a different story i would want to tie them well and load a big load


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## JD3430 (Jan 1, 2012)

8350HiTech said:


> Well, yeah, that's why you tighten the load down and then look it over and push any toward the center that you don't like the look of and retighten. Sometimes even snug it while holding it in with the loader. It's not like I was suggesting trying to fix something along the road.
> 
> My mulch bales usually sit for nearly a full year before they leave and they're going over 100 miles so it's not like we don't make sure they're on neatly before they go down the road.


Do you own a truck/trailer for shipping?


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## 8350HiTech (Jul 26, 2013)

JD3430 said:


> Do you own a truck/trailer for shipping?


I have too many relatives with trucks and trailers to want to own one. (Though mulch always goes on a third party truck. He kind of brokers it for me in addition to hauling)


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## panhandle9400 (Jan 17, 2010)

8350HiTech said:


> Why? The efficiency of hauling almost twice as much sure beats a few extra minutes to push a leaning bale back and retighten it.


Have you ever strapped bales down that were 2 wide on top ?


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## panhandle9400 (Jan 17, 2010)

Sounds like you need a cheap tractor and trailer , like Lewis said you can find them for under 20k .


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## JD3430 (Jan 1, 2012)

8350HiTech said:


> I have too many relatives with trucks and trailers to want to own one. (Though mulch always goes on a third party truck. He kind of brokers it for me in addition to hauling)


Oh, OK.


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## JD3430 (Jan 1, 2012)

Huh, Fords F-550 now has max GCWR of 40,000lbs!


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## 8350HiTech (Jul 26, 2013)

panhandle9400 said:


> Have you ever strapped bales down that were 2 wide on top ?


Always. One row is a waste of time. But keep in mind this is 4x5 country.


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## endrow (Dec 15, 2011)

We go 2 high sometime we have done it . But not for local or around the farm . If i got to tie a big load like that myself it takes a while . If you got a cross wind throwing the straps PITA almost got to climb up to egt in placer


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## endrow (Dec 15, 2011)

endrow said:


> We go 2 high sometime we have done it . But not for local or around the farm . If i got to tie a big load like that myself it takes a while . If you got a cross wind throwing the straps PITA almost got to climb up to egt in placer


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## endrow (Dec 15, 2011)

Sorry found it


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## somedevildawg (Jun 20, 2011)

That's the way we load em and strap down to get back to the barn out of the field.....most customers don't want that many at a time so for delivery I usually opt for a gooseneck and no combo I have will handle that much weight when loaded like that.....one down the middle on top is all we do when going long distance.
Plus I don't have the handy strap thrower that Endrow has......


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## JD3430 (Jan 1, 2012)

endrow said:


> We go 2 high sometime we have done it . But not for local or around the farm . If i got to tie a big load like that myself it takes a while . If you got a cross wind throwing the straps PITA almost got to climb up to egt in placer


"Strapping down".....that and democrats are probably tied as 2 of the things I loathe the most. LOL
I have become very skilled at throwing those yellow straps over double stacks. I even compensate for wind LOL it's a good day when I don't have to climb up and free a hook lodged between bales!!!
There's a couple of enterprising hay haulers in my area who have built trailers with hydraulic frames that clamp down on double stacked bales for transporting. No straps needed! 
I'd like to own one of those one day.
In MY area, the roads are abysmal. We have many roads where the lanes are crowned so badly, that the loads can shift if you get to close to the shoulder! Then there's the potholes....they look more like bomb craters! Just waiting to blow up those incredibly durable Chinese trailer tires!
And we have the highest fuel tax in the country!!!


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## Lewis Ranch (Jul 15, 2013)

If you’re throwing straps regularly on a double stacked load build you a strap pole out of pvc. Make a “U” on top about 6” wide and you put a couple push together joints so it can break down in the back seat. Now you can adjust your straps from the ground and never have to climb up on the trailer


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## LaneFarms (Apr 10, 2010)

Lewis ranch my dad had the same idea about the pvc pole. Everyone that sees it work wants us to build them one.


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## sethd11 (Jan 1, 2012)

Jd, If you buy one of those newer 30k gooseneck trailers with 17.5s and disc brakes can you add 2-4 bales? 
Im running a step deck trailer for my hauls over 3-40 miles, but it's a bear to get in to most places. Thank God for Google Earth satellite maps..
I have found that it's mostly not worth running my semi trailer when doing shorter hauls even using my 42 foot stepdeck and not the 53 drop.
If I were you I would stick with the rig you have and maybe just upgrade trailer. Your truck is bullet proof, and your used to it. Maybe save up the money for a spare 6.4 engine when she goes..


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## JD3430 (Jan 1, 2012)

sethd11 said:


> Jd, If you buy one of those newer 30k gooseneck trailers with 17.5s and disc brakes can you add 2-4 bales?
> Im running a step deck trailer for my hauls over 3-40 miles, but it's a bear to get in to most places. Thank God for Google Earth satellite maps..
> I have found that it's mostly not worth running my semi trailer when doing shorter hauls even using my 42 foot stepdeck and not the 53 drop.
> If I were you I would stick with the rig you have and maybe just upgrade trailer. Your truck is bullet proof, and your used to it. Maybe save up the money for a spare 6.4 engine when she goes..


Thats a consideration, for sure.
If I went from my current 30' trailer to a 35' trailer with 12K axles then add 4 more bales, I'd be at 40K. I'm not comfortable with that.
I'd either have to go to a T/T or a new 550 with the 40K GCWR.

I'd love to be able to safely/legally haul 26 bales, though.
The issue I have is 90 degree turns out of fields into oncoming traffic lanes when leaving cutomer's fields.
I think 40' would be max trailer length for me.


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## labdwakin (Jun 21, 2016)

JD... sounds to me like you're makin hay where there's too much traffic, LOL.


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## JD3430 (Jan 1, 2012)

labdwakin said:


> JD... sounds to me like you're makin hay where there's too much traffic, LOL.


oh for sure!
I have farm driveways I pull out of where honestly, the way some of the retards drive around here, they would T-bone my rig and probably die AND it would be my fault.
Buddy of mine was backing gooseneck out into a street in local borough and this is exactly what happened to him (no injuries, but womans car was totalled). Cops said he was supposed to have a "flag man" directing traffic.
I guess....
I usually avoid hauling hay during retar...I mean rush hour. I try to set up warning cones, but I'll be damned if Im going to bring someone with me for 4 hours who's only job is to wave a flag for 5 minutes while I pull out of a driveway.


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## labdwakin (Jun 21, 2016)

Well, I still think you're a bad influence, sir. I'm headed out this weekend to go look at a Western Star daycab... LOL


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## JD3430 (Jan 1, 2012)

Well I've looked at quite a few road tractors. Still cant convince myself that they will make it in/out of the multiple field entrances I have onto main roads.
Once I commit, I'm all in with this. Would be difficult to "undo the transaction" once I sell my 550 and buy road tractor and 40' trailer.
It's somewhat tight getting a 550 crew-cab with a 30' trailer out onto the street. I cant help but think that if I switched to a 40' trailer, it would be considerably worse.
Don't want to be knocking down mailboxes, running over hedges, or knocking over stone pillars at the end of driveways LOL
If the trailer is any less than 40', I'm thinking whats the use in changing?
Then there's the steering angles...the 550's have amazing turn radius. My 550 turns tighter than my 350 (NO, I'm not buying a cab-over, LOL)

Seems like the best solution might be a newer 550 with the higher 40,000 GCWR packages they are offering and maybe a 35' trailer. That would only allow 4 more bales, though 
Lot of money to spend to go from trucking 22 bales (10 tons) on my current 30' setup to 26 bales (12 tons).
If I make 600 tons/year, it would only save me 10 trips at 12 tons each.

With my '08 550's 6.4L diesel DPF issues and pushing 150,000 short trip miles, it might be my only solution.


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## labdwakin (Jun 21, 2016)

Well, you also want to remember that wheelbase is that makes the turn radius, not the trailer length (of course, there's tail-swing to consider).

I passed on the Western Star but am still in the market for a road tractor when time and funds allow. But then again, I'm moving some big equipment around that you don't mess with so there's that, too.

Seems to me like you're doing just what you need to for now. I wouldn't worry about the road tractor and/or bigger trailer unless you start hauling longer distances.


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