# Massey Ferguson 1840 with Hoelscher accumulator.



## gradyjohn (Jul 17, 2012)

Thinking of getting a MF1840 and was wondering if a Hoelscher accumulator slows it down?


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## vhaby (Dec 30, 2009)

I don't know anything about an MF 1840, but I do run an older version Hoelscher accumulator behind my old NH wire tie sm sq baler. If the Hoelscher accumulator is working as it is designed to do, it should have little effect on baling speed. The potential slow down of the baling process can happen when the baler fails to tie a bale and you have to stop the baling process and remove the loose hay from the throwing arm platform or from the accumulating platform. When the accumulator platform contains 10 bales, an arm trips and the platform elevates and allows the bales to slide off in a neat stack. The platform returns to horizontal to await the next two bales. As long as the baling process is not so fast that the next two bales are thrown toward the platform before it has returned to horizontal, there should be little problem.


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## Vol (Jul 5, 2009)

I agree with Vincent, I don't think a Hoelscher would slow the MF/Hesston 1840 down. Those balers are the dream for square bale making.

Regards, Mike


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## slowzuki (Mar 8, 2011)

I’ve heard a lot of folks say the hoelscher can’t handle the bales per hour an 1840 can pump out. There are spring arm kits to fix some of the jamming issues of the hoelscher but it’s still going to limit the max bales per hour. Still a great baler though!


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## gradyjohn (Jul 17, 2012)

vhaby said:


> I don't know anything about an MF 1840, but I do run an older version Hoelscher accumulator behind my old NH wire tie sm sq baler. If the Hoelscher accumulator is working as it is designed to do, it should have little effect on baling speed. The potential slow down of the baling process can happen when the baler fails to tie a bale and you have to stop the baling process and remove the loose hay from the throwing arm platform or from the accumulating platform. When the accumulator platform contains 10 bales, an arm trips and the platform elevates and allows the bales to slide off in a neat stack. The platform returns to horizontal to await the next two bales. As long as the baling process is not so fast that the next two bales are thrown toward the platform before it has returned to horizontal, there should be little problem.


We have a Hoelscher behind two BC5070. Both are upgraded but still have problems with arm clipping the next bale sometimes. Most 1840s around here have a Kuhns accumulator.


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## Vol (Jul 5, 2009)

The 1840 is a little faster than the 5070 so it might be an issue. The 1840 is 100 spm , whereas the 5070 in 93 spm at the plunger,

Regards, Mike


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## VA Haymaker (Jul 1, 2014)

gradyjohn said:


> Thinking of getting a MF1840 and was wondering if a Hoelscher accumulator slows it down?


Do you already have a Hoelscher? I would think a Kuhn accumulator would allow max capacity of the 1840, no issues.


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## gradyjohn (Jul 17, 2012)

leeave96 said:


> Do you already have a Hoelscher? I would think a Kuhn accumulator would allow max capacity of the 1840, no issues.


Yes we do.


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## VA Haymaker (Jul 1, 2014)

gradyjohn said:


> Yes we do.


You might consider a John Deere 348 baler. It is a 93 stroke baler and I should think would mate-up to your Hoelscher nicely. We have a 348 and it is a terrific baler. If you find a late model, it will have a larger twine box too.

Good luck!
Bill


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## gradyjohn (Jul 17, 2012)

leeave96 said:


> You might consider a John Deere 348 baler. It is a 93 stroke baler and I should think would mate-up to your Hoelscher nicely. We have a 348 and it is a terrific baler. If you find a late model, it will have a larger twine box too.
> 
> Good luck!
> Bill


Had a JD 348 ... now have a BC5070 now ... want a MF 1840 for a better bale. Not going to bite the bullet for a MF1840 and Kuhns.

Was wondering if any one had MF1840 with Hoelscher?


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## Vol (Jul 5, 2009)

gradyjohn said:


> Had a JD 348 ... now have a BC5070 now ... want a MF 1840 for a better bale. Not going to bite the bullet for a MF1840 and Kuhns.
> 
> Was wondering if any one had MF1840 with Hoelscher?


I am sure you can find a gear that would allow the Hoelscher to keep up with the 1840. Also, you could back down on the rpm's ever so slightly and find a sweet spot that would allow you to keep your favorite gear and maybe allow the Hoelscher to max out. Those MF/Hesstons are sewing machines.

Regards, Mike


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## gradyjohn (Jul 17, 2012)

Vol said:


> I am sure you can find a gear that would allow the Hoelscher to keep up with the 1840. Also, you could back down on the rpm's ever so slightly and find a sweet spot that would allow you to keep your favorite gear and maybe allow the Hoelscher to max out. Those MF/Hesstons are sewing machines.
> 
> Regards, Mike


Mike, I will let you know. 1840 should arrive 5-2 but won't be until 6-1 there about.


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## paoutdoorsman (Apr 23, 2016)

Congrats on the purchase gradyjohn!


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## Vol (Jul 5, 2009)

gradyjohn said:


> Mike, I will let you know. 1840 should arrive 5-2 but won't be until 6-1 there about.


I can guarantee that you will love that baler. It will work well down in the Republic. I really enjoy baling with mine. Post some pics when you get going good with it. It has about a 15 minute learning curve. I adjusted my side doors in about an inch and it seems to make a perfect bale for me and adjusted my measuring wheel(star) to make a 35" bale. Seems to work better for my 1036F Kuhns at that length.

Regards, Mike


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## slowzuki (Mar 8, 2011)

I’ll second Mike. I’ve had my 1840 2 years now and while I kept my jd 336 and 348, one of them is gonna go up for sale. The only negatives I have for the 1840 is I can’t see the bales/twine while still in chamber. Easy fix with camera. The other is the pick up not ideal for easy rebaling of rounds by hand.  Not a big deal or common issue. Drug the old baler out to do that last year.


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## gradyjohn (Jul 17, 2012)

Arrived today! Now I am in a learning curve. Open to advice.


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## Vol (Jul 5, 2009)

Start out with hydraulic pressure set about 160 pounds and fine tune from there. Adjust the side doors in about an inch. Use good heavy twine. Get a moisture meter and install the sensors. She looks like a little red jet getting ready to launch.

Regards, Mike


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## slowzuki (Mar 8, 2011)

Ohh nice new style pump on the side for the bale tension. Mine could use that update.


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## paoutdoorsman (Apr 23, 2016)

Nice! I always liked the peg on the hitch of my 4590 for storing the PTO shaft. Looks like they did away with that on the new ones.


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## gradyjohn (Jul 17, 2012)

paoutdoorsman said:


> Nice! I always liked the peg on the hitch of my 4590 for storing the PTO shaft. Looks like they did away with that on the new ones.


Delivered and was told hitch is on order. Shouldn't that come with the baler from the factory? Not how I would have done it. Do different tractors come with different hitches. I still have my hitch for my JD348 to pull with the pickup.


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## Vol (Jul 5, 2009)

The drawbar hitch is much different than mine, but it may have come with a way to rest the pto shaft that is not readily apparent. Grady, was that the wagon hitch that they have on order?

Regards, Mike


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## somedevildawg (Jun 20, 2011)

Yes I love that "peg" they put on the hitch as well, noticed they didn't put that on there....I wonder why?

My first thing I'll tell you is the bolt with the castle nut goes in directly opposite from the way you have it when hitched to the tractor....kinda strange but

You'll love that baler, make sure to grease that plunger bearing, it's easy to miss...


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## slowzuki (Mar 8, 2011)

Looks like the hitch on mine, what’s this pin you guys are talking about? Mine was missing the bolt so I run a cat 3 lower link pin bolted to the drawbar.


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## gradyjohn (Jul 17, 2012)

gradyjohn said:


> Delivered and was told hitch is on order. Shouldn't that come with the baler from the factory? Not how I would have done it. Do different tractors come with different hitches. I still have my hitch for my JD348 to pull with the pickup.


Checked with my friend who took delivery and he said it was the hitch in the back. My question is why deliver it if you are waiting on something to put on it?


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## Vol (Jul 5, 2009)

gradyjohn said:


> Checked with my friend who took delivery and he said it was the hitch in the back. My question is why deliver it if you are waiting on something to put on it?


You do have to order a hitch if you want to pull a wagon. I do not know why anyone would not want a hitch back there even if they just dumped bales on the ground for a balewagon. Could be that they could get the baler immediately without the hitch. Those balers can get hard to source at this time of year.

Regards, Mike


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## Vol (Jul 5, 2009)

slowzuki said:


> Looks like the hitch on mine, what's this pin you guys are talking about? Mine was missing the bolt so I run a cat 3 lower link pin bolted to the drawbar.


The pin is for the end of the pto shaft. The pin sticks up about 2" and is about 7/8" in diameter and is welded vertically to the baler tongue just behind where the baler hooks to the drawbar. The end of the pto shaft just slips over the pin and it holds the pto shaft in place when resting. Very convenient and thoughtful.

Regards, Mike


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## gradyjohn (Jul 17, 2012)

Vol said:


> You do have to order a hitch if you want to pull a wagon. I do not know why anyone would not want a hitch back there even if they just dumped bales on the ground for a balewagon. Could be that they could get the baler immediately without the hitch. Those balers can get hard to source at this time of year.
> 
> Regards, Mike


I ordered it with the hitch because we will put an accumulator behind it. Why did he bring it ...double trip. This dealer is a piece of work.



Vol said:


> The pin is for the end of the pto shaft. The pin sticks up about 2" and is about 7/8" in diameter and is welded vertically to the baler tongue just behind where the baler hooks to the drawbar. The end of the pto shaft just slips over the pin and it holds the pto shaft in place when resting. Very convenient and thoughtful.
> 
> Regards, Mike


This one has a yoke that cradles the PTO. I was not aware the baler was bolted to the tractor drawbar.


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## VA Haymaker (Jul 1, 2014)

To get a complete visual, I looked at the Agco parts book online and...

IF that were my baler, I would ixnay the bolted hitch to drawbar and go with something like my JD 348 baler has - less the equal angle hitch. I'm talking about a Cat 2 or 3 lower link hitch pin bolted to the drawbar, pointing up. Drop the tongue over it and put in a pin to lock and you're done.

Some pics I took this morning...

Good luck!
Bill


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## gradyjohn (Jul 17, 2012)

leeave96 said:


> To get a complete visual, I looked at the Agco parts book online and...
> 
> IF that were my baler, I would ixnay the bolted hitch to drawbar and go with something like my JD 348 baler has - less the equal angle hitch. I'm talking about a Cat 2 or 3 lower link hitch pin bolted to the drawbar, pointing up. Drop the tongue over it and put in a pin to lock and you're done.
> 
> ...


Bill, I have thought about when I saw how it hooked up. Wonder if there are 1800 series owners that do that. Still waiting on the rear hitch?


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## slowzuki (Mar 8, 2011)

As a heads up - I tried my 348 drawbar extension with my mf 1840 a couple of years ago, the pin fits but the extension is too long for the Massey cv driveline, or at least for the length mine is. Could retube the shaft cheap enough I suppose.

The solution I had was to put a pin in the drawbar like the one shown.

If I had mower like a nh etc that used hitch extension too I'd spend more time getting them set up the same.


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## gradyjohn (Jul 17, 2012)

This Massey dealer never ceases to amaze me. "The Rear Hitch" on order (?) was suppose to be there in a week. May 2 baler delivered no hitch. Called Friday and he did not have a clue. Also, in the book it says there are hay wedges to be put on after the paint is rubbed off the bale chamber ... I asked him about them? Said he had some there ... Shouldn't they be with the baler when delivered? Was he going to tell me if I didn't read the manual? Oh! he said I could get them when I pick up the hitch? :mellow:

I bought my first new new equipment back in the 80's. Never have I had something delivered incomplete as ordered. I have had maybe 3 or 4 JD new round balers and they come with wrap or twine. Dealer made sure it worked ... and went over everything. At least he backed the 1840 in the barn then his departing words of wisdom was tell him the read the manual?

At least I got a good deal ... I think :huh:


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## gradyjohn (Jul 17, 2012)

slowzuki said:


> Looks like the hitch on mine, what's this pin you guys are talking about? Mine was missing the bolt so I run a cat 3 lower link pin bolted to the drawbar.


I was thinking of doing that. I use the same tractor to run the cutter but it hooks up to the 3pt. I had to put a nut on the bolt and drive it out because it was rusted in place.


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## slowzuki (Mar 8, 2011)

Want to add a bushing to it as there is some slop in the spherical mount and the drawbar hole too. Maybe get fancy and fire up the lathe.


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## gradyjohn (Jul 17, 2012)

slowzuki said:


> Want to add a bushing to it as there is some slop in the spherical mount and the drawbar hole too. Maybe get fancy and fire up the lathe.


LOL! wish I had a lathe. I will figure something out next week.


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## slowzuki (Mar 8, 2011)

Well you have a lathe, then you wish you had a bigger lathe. I learned on tool room / engine lathes but only have a weeny little thing a guy used to make telescopes with. 7” swing and no power to speak of. Hard to get excited about farm sized projects on it lol


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## Hayit (Jan 31, 2020)

About that MF 1840 rear hitch... I locked in a gently used 1840 last week (super excited!). Wanted a rear hitch put on and was informed it wouldn’t ship from factory until week of 06/01.


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## gradyjohn (Jul 17, 2012)

Hayit said:


> About that MF 1840 rear hitch... I locked in a gently used 1840 last week (super excited!). Wanted a rear hitch put on and was informed it wouldn't ship from factory until week of 06/01.


Mine was suppose to be in a week after he brought the baler. We start last week in May and or around 6-1. They are suppose to let me know something tomorrow. They are fixing to have a mad and hell customer. I will call MF corp. This is as diplomatic as I can say but you can read between the lines. :angry:


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## r82230 (Mar 1, 2016)

gradyjohn said:


> Mine was suppose to be in a week after he brought the baler. We start last week in May and or around 6-1. They are suppose to let me know something tomorrow. They are fixing to have a mad and hell customer. I will call MF corp. This is as diplomatic as I can say but you can read between the lines. :angry:


Best equipment in the world can get a 'bad' name quickly with poor dealer service. Too bad you're on the receiving end of such. Seems most of the folks with that baler love 'em. Is there another dealer within driving distance, that would better appreciate your business?

I'd send a letter (ASAP) to the Chairman of the Board verses calling, you might be surprise of the rapid response IMHO. What do you got to lose at this point, a cutting/baling window? Could be a wake up call for the dealer. 

Larry


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## slowzuki (Mar 8, 2011)

The hitch isn’t much more than a few pieces of pipe with the ends pinched and drilled? May be able to rig something yourself.


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## gradyjohn (Jul 17, 2012)

r82230 said:


> Best equipment in the world can get a 'bad' name quickly with poor dealer service. Too bad you're on the receiving end of such. Seems most of the folks with that baler love 'me. Is there another dealer within driving distance, that would better appreciate your business?
> 
> I'd send a letter (ASAP) to the Chairman of the Board verses calling, you might be surprise of the rapid response IMHO. What do you got to lose at this point, a cutting/baling window? Could be a wake up call for the dealer.
> 
> Larry


Nearest other dealer is 80 miles.

I did custom baling just north of Dallas back in the 90's until 2007. I use to buy a new round baler and cutter every 3 years. John Deere would send people to interview me because I ran my own equipment. I would let them know what I liked and disliked. When they delivered the equipment we would go over it. I read the manuals. On one of the cutters I told the engineer one of the grease zerks was not listed in the manual. We got the manual out and I was right. Also told them on the JD4440 picture jacking the front end is upside down. I guess I was use to excellent service. This dealer is a family owned business. If I was younger I would try to buy them out because they miss so much business both in parts and sales. I talked to Massey on line rep and they kept pushing for me to use this dealer. I finally agreed and that was on 4-6 and she said they would call me then or the next day. 4-20 I went by and talked to them about purchasing (they never called me), I told them I couldn't meet their price and to see if they could come up with something better. They did and I went by 4-24 and handed my application. They called on 4-25 said I was a go and I went by 4-27 to sign etc. Delivered 5-2 without the hitch and it appeared like it came in the same configuration as it is shipped except the wheels were on it. The PTO shaft was wired to the tongue. I'm not sure how they come. Said the hitch would be here in a week. I finally called 5-15 and he had no clue on the hitch and would have to talk to his brother. I called today and he said he would let me know tomorrow. A side note: while waiting one of the times a guy came in and needed a key to his little tractor. He lost his. They could not find one to sell him. Even went to the ones out front to see if they could find one. Really! Like Paul Harvey use to say "and now you know the rest of the story.



slowzuki said:


> The hitch isn't much more than a few pieces of pipe with the ends pinched and drilled? May be able to rig something yourself.


Hoelscher stated to use their hitch and something might void the warranty on the baler?


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## slowzuki (Mar 8, 2011)

I forgot about the warrantee weasels out there.


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## gradyjohn (Jul 17, 2012)

slowzuki said:


> I forgot about the warrantee weasels out there.


No problem now. Got a call the hitch is there. Bet it has been there all this time.


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## somedevildawg (Jun 20, 2011)

Glad you at least think it's at the dealer  I was gonna suggest them taking a hitch off of a stock unit....can't believe they don't stock them, surely 50% of the time folks are gonna want the hitch. 
My Massey dealer wasn't much better....they did route the twine, albeit incorrectly. They went over the door jamb instead of thru the hole in the side of the twine box  at least the did go down thru the tensioner...on one side  pathetic


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## slowzuki (Mar 8, 2011)

Hardly a dealer around that knows how to work on square balers these days. Tech ends up on YouTube and service manual trying to learn them.


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## gradyjohn (Jul 17, 2012)

somedevildawg said:


> Glad you at least think it's at the dealer  I was gonna suggest them taking a hitch off of a stock unit....can't believe they don't stock them, surely 50% of the time folks are gonna want the hitch.
> My Massey dealer wasn't much better....they did route the twine, albeit incorrectly. They went over the door jamb instead of thru the hole in the side of the twine box  at least the did go down thru the tensioner...on one side  pathetic


They didn't even put any twine to start. No problem with them messing up routing. 



slowzuki said:


> Hardly a dealer around that knows how to work on square balers these days. Tech ends up on YouTube and service manual trying to learn them.


Maybe why the manual has all that extra stuff. That way you know how to tear it down. :huh:


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## r82230 (Mar 1, 2016)

slowzuki said:


> Hardly a dealer around that knows how to work on square balers these days. Tech ends up on YouTube and service manual trying to learn them.


Need to count my blessings again, seems in MY area there is an excellent NH tech, use to also have an excellent JD guy too (he un-volunteer to retire, when chain store bought out the local dealership, reducing techs, while increasing shop rate :huh. I'm not sure if the JD guy ever graduated from HS, but he sure new his stuff on ss balers. A lot of years hands on wisdom/knowledge, went out the door with him. He was an exceptional, but down to earth kind of person, don't make many like that anymore.

Larry


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## gradyjohn (Jul 17, 2012)

r82230 said:


> Need to count my blessings again, seems in MY area there is an excellent NH tech, use to also have an excellent JD guy too (he un-volunteer to retire, when chain store bought out the local dealership, reducing techs, while increasing shop rate :huh. I'm not sure if the JD guy ever graduated from HS, but he sure new his stuff on ss balers. A lot of years hands on wisdom/knowledge, went out the door with him. He was an exceptional, but down to earth kind of person, don't make many like that anymore.
> 
> Larry


You can bet you aunt Pearl's panties this dealer doesn't know squat. The JD dealer I used has a good man but don't have a JD baler anymore.

The hitch was there this morning along with the extra wedges stated in the book. Funny the packing list was dated 5-18.


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## somedevildawg (Jun 20, 2011)

I’m with you, it’s been there a minute.....


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## gradyjohn (Jul 17, 2012)

leeave96 said:


> To get a complete visual, I looked at the Agco parts book online and...
> 
> IF that were my baler, I would ixnay the bolted hitch to drawbar and go with something like my JD 348 baler has - less the equal angle hitch. I'm talking about a Cat 2 or 3 lower link hitch pin bolted to the drawbar, pointing up. Drop the tongue over it and put in a pin to lock and you're done.
> 
> ...


Bill,

Where did you find the parts book?


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## gradyjohn (Jul 17, 2012)

Well tried to upload some pictures but didn't work.

I have attached the hitch on the baler

Connected the Hoelscher to the baler ... not really pleased with the set up.

Using some of the hitch from the NH5070 (like they said) there was one small snag. The left part of the hitch was not long enough so we spliced a piece of 2 inch square tubing to connect the angle iron pieces.

QUESTION: I have a 6430 JD connected to it. How do you wire up the fan. I have a camera, moisture tester, and the fan on only have two plug types. I know on my JD 4440 I would connect on the fuse box like the JD monitor for my round baler.

Keep in mind the dealer delivered the baler and said read the manual ... then left. No where have I found in the manual about the fan. Shows hitch attachment but nothing about the fan or even the hydraulics.


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## Vol (Jul 5, 2009)

I am not familiar with the fan Grady, as I have a 1839. I would like to see a pic of your hitch. I am not sure what you mean by the hitch wasn't long enough. Maybe call Hoelscher and ask how to hookup to a MF 1840....and bypass the NH attachment.

Regards, Mike


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## slowzuki (Mar 8, 2011)

The fan has a heavy tractor side harness that goes to the battery as it’s quite a load.


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## gradyjohn (Jul 17, 2012)

Vol said:


> I am not familiar with the fan Grady, as I have a 1839. I would like to see a pic of your hitch. I am not sure what you mean by the hitch wasn't long enough. Maybe call Hoelscher and ask how to hookup to a MF 1840....and bypass the NH attachment.
> 
> Regards, Mike


I had talked to Hoelscher and they said to use what I could. The Left side of the Hoelscher attached to the hitch. The right side (is a stabilizer) attaches to the axial on the right side of a Deere or NH. On an inline that has to go inward. When you extend it out there wasn't enough metal to reach.


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## seventyfourci (May 13, 2014)

Grady I sure would like to see the final hook up and if possible some video of the setup operating. This is in my mind a perfect setup if it is compatible.


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## Hayit (Jan 31, 2020)

Couldn’t get a factory hitch for mine in time....


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## Jharn57600 (Dec 23, 2013)

gradyjohn said:


> Bill,
> 
> Where did you find the parts book?


https://na.apb.agcocorp.com/

Use the guest sign in and search for your model.


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## gradyjohn (Jul 17, 2012)

seventyfourci said:


> Grady I sure would like to see the final hook up and if possible some video of the setup operating. This is in my mind a perfect setup if it is compatible.


Everything all set up. Fan has 3 wires. Ground, Power and switch. All three connect to the JD outlet in the cab. When you turn the key off the fan stops. This is a picture of the completed set up of the Hoelscher to the MF1840. Everybody keep you fingers crossed we should start later this afternoon or tomorrow.


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## Wethay (Jul 17, 2015)

Had a chance to test it yet? Hopefully everything went/ will go better than you even hoped for.


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## gradyjohn (Jul 17, 2012)

Wethay said:


> Had a chance to test it yet? Hopefully everything went/ will go better than you even hoped for.


Hay not ready. Took a shot today. 3 bales to much moisture. Need to adjust down to 36"


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## Cblake (Jun 13, 2018)

I run a Hoelscher behind a Hesston 4590. Without the upgraded push over arm you will out bale the accumulator. I still find my self having a few problems jamming if I am baling heavy hay that I merged to windrows together. The thing I don't like is I went to the inline baler for straddling the windrow and ease of moving down some country roads but the accumulator is still offset.


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## Vol (Jul 5, 2009)

Cblake said:


> The thing I don't like is I went to the inline baler for straddling the windrow and ease of moving down some country roads but the accumulator is still offset.


Can't you tow the accumulator separately inline with your tractor or truck?

Regards, Mike


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## slowzuki (Mar 8, 2011)

Hoelschler not made to tow separate from baler. Has dolly wheels and need two connections to make it track behind anything.


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## gradyjohn (Jul 17, 2012)

gradyjohn said:


> Mike, I will let you know. 1840 should arrive 5-2 but won't be until 6-1 there about.


We loved it!



Vol said:


> I can guarantee that you will love that baler. It will work well down in the Republic. I really enjoy baling with mine. Post some pics when you get going good with it. It has about a 15 minute learning curve. I adjusted my side doors in about an inch and it seems to make a perfect bale for me and adjusted my measuring wheel(star) to make a 35" bale. Seems to work better for my 1036F Kuhns at that length.
> 
> Regards, Mike


Learning curve was brutal. I learned you never ever want to plug the baler. I learned I need to really work on my square knots. Found all the grease areas. Needless to say we will only be using one baler unless weather coming is a issue. I can tell that I bale faster because I don't get out of the tractor as much. Any busted bales were on me not the 1840 or the accumulator. David said it cut down his loading and unloading time by 30%. He said as long I am chugging along his NH5070 will stay in the barn.

Having problems posting pics.


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## Vol (Jul 5, 2009)

gradyjohn said:


> We loved it!
> 
> Learning curve was brutal. I learned you never ever want to plug the baler. I learned I need to really work on my square knots. Found all the grease areas. Needless to say we will only be using one baler unless weather coming is a issue. I can tell that I bale faster because I don't get out of the tractor as much. Any busted bales were on me not the 1840 or the accumulator. David said it cut down his loading and unloading time by 30%. He said as long I am chugging along his NH5070 will stay in the barn.
> 
> Having problems posting pics.


Back to your learning curve. If you plug your baler you must first take the stuffer arm pressure off the chamber by rotating the flywheel off the charge of hay. Just rotate the flywheel opposite of the arrow of travel on the flywheel and out of the chamber. Remove the back chamber door and remove some of the plug to relieve some of the pressure. I usually don't remove all of the plug because if you take the door off and remove maybe 1/2 of the plug, then you can engage the pto and push the rest out of the back door. Saves you lots of sweat. If you pop a shear bolt you have not removed enough but usually about 1/2 is sufficient.

Regards, Mike


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## gradyjohn (Jul 17, 2012)

Vol said:


> Back to your learning curve. If you plug your baler you must first take the stuffer arm pressure off the chamber by rotating the flywheel off the charge of hay. Just rotate the flywheel opposite of the arrow of travel on the flywheel and out of the chamber. Remove the back chamber door and remove some of the plug to relieve some of the pressure. I usually don't remove all of the plug because if you take the door off and remove maybe 1/2 of the plug, then you can engage the pto and push the rest out of the back door. Saves you lots of sweat. If you pop a shear bolt you have not removed enough but usually about 1/2 is sufficient.
> 
> Regards, Mike


Mike, Thanks for the advice ... hope I don't do it any more. I disconnected the PTO but I did such a good job the flywheel would not reverse. That was the way I did with all my balers in the past. When I pluged it two bolts sheared so I did massive screw up I think. I guess I was excited about using it and got a little over zealous. At my age not much can excite you.


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## Vol (Jul 5, 2009)

To be quite frank with you Grady, I basically did the same thing when my baler was spanking new. Except I took in a big wad of green hay that was along side of a ditch that did not get tedded. I was wore out after unplugging that mess, but it was just an odd occurrence. If your hay is dry, you generally don't have problems.

Regards, Mike


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## gradyjohn (Jul 17, 2012)

Vol said:


> To be quite frank with you Grady, I basically did the same thing when my baler was spanking new. Except I took in a big wad of green hay that was along side of a ditch that did not get tedded. I was wore out after unplugging that mess, but it was just an odd occurrence. If your hay is dry, you generally don't have problems.
> 
> Regards, Mike


Mike, my wad was where the corners are taken out with my rake. Can't get mad at the rake guy because this is one of the few times I did the raking also.


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## broadriverhay (Jun 13, 2014)

I’m thinking about buying a MF 1840. My question is will it handle 100 bale per acre Bermuda as good as my NH BC 5070. My first cutting this year was 100 bales per acre due to excessive rains .


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## slowzuki (Mar 8, 2011)

1840 will handle 200 bale an acre hay, just don't rake big wet lumps. The same balled up wet lumps that plug a round baler will plug an inline. Same if the tractor can't get over the window and is dragging and making wads, the inline won't like it.

The other situation is baling big straw windrows from wide headers sometimes the sidewinders can be better where big piles of straw pop out.


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## broadriverhay (Jun 13, 2014)

I have an 8 wheel rake ( VR 820 ) . I take the windrows as small as I can by moving over next to the previously raked windrow. In real thick hay the windrow gets pretty big. It will be slightly larger than the BC 5070 pickup width. The BC 5070 handles the windrow fairly well . It misses a little if the hay and if you don’t slow to about 2.5. - 3 mph it will banana some bales.


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## r82230 (Mar 1, 2016)

broadriverhay said:


> I'm thinking about buying a MF 1840. My question is will it handle 100 bale per acre Bermuda as good as my NH BC 5070. My first cutting this year was 100 bales per acre due to excessive rains .


As I think of this question, I keep going back to, wouldn't the question be more along the lines of "how many bales a minute?". If both were putting out same size bales.

My rational for this thinking is even the old JD24t (that I have experience with), could bale 100 (or 200) bale per acre crop, as long as you had a slow enough gear (or used the clutch a lot).

Now, it I ran the JD side-by-side in the same size crop as my NH5070 and had to be hand stacking on a wagon behind them, I surely wouldn't want to be on the business end of the 5070 (even as a younger lad ).

I have a neighbor with a 5070 and in straw they push it, with flakes of 6"-8". The bales are flying out of the back of that machine. Every 6 strokes or less a bale is in the air. What I don't like about that is the bale length's vary a lot. The reason I mention straw is because in my area a rotary combine's windrow doesn't look like a lot of material until you start baling it yourself. Seems to come out of the machine pretty compacted.

Maybe a fair question is can you over-feed a stuffier type machine (1840)? Every baler is going to have a limiting factor somewhere, you would think.

Larry


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## broadriverhay (Jun 13, 2014)

Yeah that a good way to ask and answer the question. I have baled to same amount of hay with a NH 273 making a bale every 6 seconds. The first time we baled this year my wife had all kinds of issues with banana bales and them not flowing through the accumulator properly. I had the hardest time explaining to her that just because the baler will take the material in and shoot out a bale doesn’t mean you are going the correct speed. After she fought a 1000 bales all day she started to listen. The next time she slowed down a gear and all was good . No banana bales and accumulator worked great. If I quote upgrade to the 1840 , I don’t want to have to slow down any more than I am having to now with the 5070. All I do is Bermuda grass squares so I just want the best baler for the job.


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## Vol (Jul 5, 2009)

broadriverhay said:


> It misses a little if the hay and if you don't slow to about 2.5. - 3 mph it will banana some bales.


Good grief....how fast do you run your baler? I usually max out about 3.5 in bone dry hay. I also use a wheel rake sometimes and hang over into the previous raked side in big hay. If it is dry you should be able to rock on. When I say dry, I am talking 22% and under. I do use a rotary in first cutting most of the time because I often need the good drying capabilities that go along with a rotary rake.

Banana is not in the inline vocabulary....it will never happen.

Also, 100 bales/ac. which is typically 2 1/2 tons per acre is routine for an inline baler or any later model baler really.

Regards, Mike


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## VA Haymaker (Jul 1, 2014)

The concerns I would have with the 1840 are:

If your windrows are wide as you describe, is the pickup the same width of the 5070 and to take advantage of that width, are you going to widen the wheel track such that you aren't running over the sides of the windrow?

In first cutting, coming off a V hay rake, is the height if the windrows going to drag and bunch under your tractor and the hitch?

Given the cut side of the bale is on the bottom of an inline baler's bale, is that rough edge going to cause issues with dragging the bales with your Parish accumulator, ie collecting dirt and thatch that may not otherwise occur with a 5070?

The 5070 is a 93 stroke per minute machine. The 1840 is a 100 stroke per minute machine. I don't think the difference is significant in terms of capacity, so you may have to slow down with the 1840 just the same.

Typically with a New Holland, a banana bale is from one side getting to much hay vs the other. Is it possible that your 5070's banana bales are curving away from the cut side as the action of cutting the hay on a plunger stroke also can pack more hay to the cut side of the bale. It might be that, if you done want to slow down the ground speed and feed the baler to capacity, you need to adjust the packer fork to move more hay to the non-cut side of the bale to even things out. Perhaps with the 1840, with the cut side against the strings, this is a non-issue?

IMHO - for brute force throughput, the 5070 carries the day - especially with higher moisture hay.

Good luck,
Bill


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## broadriverhay (Jun 13, 2014)

Thanks Bill. All these are good points. The bales banana when the windrow gets large. I feel the forks are adjusted correctly since it bales great when it gets sufficient strikes per bale. When the flakes per bales gets low the bales get inconsistent and start to hang in the accumulator and also banana. You are also correct about the hay dragging under the tractor. I have thought about that also. It is hard for me to believe any baler can consume more hay than my 5070. The pickup looks to be about the same on both balers. Mike at Nance tractor said the 1840 would not speed my baling any and he is a believer in the in lines


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## r82230 (Mar 1, 2016)

I'm thinking maybe Gear has a system to run under the tractor to help with the tractor dragging/bunching stuff up.

My accumulator really likes uniform bales, so I have put a 'stroke counter' in my tractor, which is the lazy guys way to help make consistent bales. 18 strokes is my target, gets to 20-21 shift up a gear, gets down to 15-16, down shift. In the more perfect world I'd have a CVT tractor in front of the baler to do what large square balers can do with a CVT tractor.

Larry


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## somedevildawg (Jun 20, 2011)

broadriverhay said:


> I'm thinking about buying a MF 1840. My question is will it handle 100 bale per acre Bermuda as good as my NH BC 5070. My first cutting this year was 100 bales per acre due to excessive rains .


If I were happy with the 5070, I see no reason to change.....the 5070 is a good machine.


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## broadriverhay (Jun 13, 2014)

Yeah , I count strikes as I bale but the wife said she has too much other things to keep up with. If I bale and keep the stroke count right all seems to work great. One issue is we are between gear A4 and B2-3 on my JD 6220. As long as you stay within one range it is much easier. Shifting ranges causes you to have to stop the tractor, she doesn’t like that. I understand an 1840 won’t solve that issue. The V rake is causing some of my issues because you just can’t rake but so little of width. The windrows just get huge. Somedevildog , I do like the 5070 and have bragged on it since I got it about 6 years ago. It sure was an upgrade from the 273 that I pushed very hard, sometimes baling 400 bales per hour.


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## broadriverhay (Jun 13, 2014)

r82230 what is Gear that you speak of. I’ve never heard of them.


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## r82230 (Mar 1, 2016)

broadriverhay said:


> r82230 what is Gear that you speak of. I've never heard of them.


Gearclash, IIRC he has something for baling large cornstalk windrows (under tractor to keep them from catch on stuff). But a my age it could have been someone else. :huh:

Larry

PS if you are interested in a stroke counter here where I got mine from:

https://www.idahoinstrument.com/

Idaho Instrument Company, IDR the guy I worked with.


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## somedevildawg (Jun 20, 2011)

I liked my 275...cut my teeth on that one. Learnt a lot about balers and knotters that’s for sure  but the thing was old as methuselah, so it didn’t owe me a thing....in-line balers are great, but at the end of the day, I try to rationalize will it really bring me any additional income. For the sake of this discussion, I can’t see it....so for that reason alone, I would be out. But it ain’t like I haven’t bought a few items just cause I got the itch, but I always hate that damn buyers remorse......I guess the deal maker/breaker would be “how much can I sell my beloved 5070 for...”


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## somedevildawg (Jun 20, 2011)

Might want to look at the 1838 as well....save a few coins. About 3k less I think, still 100spm


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## Vol (Jul 5, 2009)

broadriverhay said:


> I'm thinking about buying a MF 1840. My question is will it handle 100 bale per acre Bermuda as good as my NH BC 5070. My first cutting this year was 100 bales per acre due to excessive rains .


Henry, I am curious as to why you were considering a change in balers?

One aspect of the inline that has not been mentioned is the maneuverability. It is a dream to operate and transport. It does make baling more "comfortable" with mirrors instead of the neck craning of the side pull.

I don't think anyone questions the ability of the 5070 to eat high moisture hay.....but I doubt that you are plagued with that aspect of haymaking like some other regions of the country. I have not heard anyone who has bought and operated an inline for a period of time say, "I wish I had my side pull back".

Windrows have never been a problem for me as I drive over them just exactly like I do when I am round baling and I always use a wheel rake when I round bale. If you are having drawbar drag with your tractor a very simplistic way to overcome that is with a drawbar shield. John Deere makes one that clips to the drawbar and a flexible shield hangs underneath to allow the hay not to bunch and pass smoothly under the drawbar.

Probably the main differences that an inline would have over your existing baler would be comfort and transportation. There are several other differences/advantages, but they would not be considered major.

You have a good baler, and you might could use other equipment more. But, the inline can make a long day in the hayfield much more pleasant.....and the older I get, the more important that becomes.

Regards, Mike


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## broadriverhay (Jun 13, 2014)

Yeah Mike , I hear what you are saying. I never have to transport issue because I only have one field. All of my equipment is fairly new. I really don’t need anything else. My equipment is as follows: Pequea 6201 Tedder, Vermeer 820 rake, JD 630 Moco, NH 5070 baler, Parrish Accumulator, Front and tear grapples, Kubota M5-091, JD 6220 , JD 2510 and JD 3010. I think the maneuverability is a big plus and the comfort of not being rocked so much while baling. The 5070 has performed well for over 6 years now. Baling about 8000- 9000 a year.


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## broadriverhay (Jun 13, 2014)

I will have to look again at my ground speeds . I might have been wrong on those numbers. I will go run the tractor in a few different gears and get back with you.


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## r82230 (Mar 1, 2016)

r82230 said:


> PS if you are interested in a stroke counter here where I got mine from:
> 
> https://www.idahoinstrument.com/
> 
> Idaho Instrument Company, IDR the guy I worked with.


Here are some pixs of the stroke counter, I should have posted along with company info.





  








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## broadriverhay (Jun 13, 2014)

I contacted Idaho Instruments. $525 for the stroke counter. That is cheaper than a new baler but I thought a little pricey. However only about 88 bales of hay. It’s bad when you think of the cost of things in the number of bales you have to sell to pay for it.


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## r82230 (Mar 1, 2016)

broadriverhay said:


> I contacted Idaho Instruments. $525 for the stroke counter. That is cheaper than a new baler but I thought a little pricey. However only about 88 bales of hay. It's bad when you think of the cost of things in the number of bales you have to sell to pay for it.


IDR, what I paid for it, but I did mount in a different spot than they recommended and I had them throw in an extension cable (8' ??) so I could connect/disconnect behind the tractor (outside of cab).

Either the Bale Baron or Bale Bandit, comes with a stroke counter, but they would not sell me one separately. :angry:

Nice thing about the counter, is I can almost put anyone in the baling tractor, with instructions of when to shift up/down. And with an automatic Harvest Tec, not much education needed. I start the first round or so, make sure everything is a go and let them have at it. This doesn't happen very often, I can count on one hand the number or times the last three years it's occurred.

Larry


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## broadriverhay (Jun 13, 2014)

I think the baler counter will help my wife make better bales. I will call Idaho Instruments when they wake up out there in Twin Falls. Thanks for everyones help . If this doesn't solve my and her issues there will be a new baler or a divorce. LOL


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## VA Haymaker (Jul 1, 2014)

None of my business, but if the dealer is willing, perhaps they can let you demo an 1840.


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## gradyjohn (Jul 17, 2012)

Vol said:


> Henry, I am curious as to why you were considering a change in balers?
> 
> One aspect of the inline that has not been mentioned is the maneuverability. It is a dream to operate and transport. It does make baling more "comfortable" with mirrors instead of the neck craning of the side pull.
> 
> ...


I will say this, "if you are happy with your current baler great." I do know I am getting out of the tractor less. Loading is easier and 30% less time. Down side is I just rock along and it is tough to stay awake.  Ditto Mike's last paragraph.


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## r82230 (Mar 1, 2016)

broadriverhay said:


> I think the baler counter will help my wife make better bales. I will call Idaho Instruments when they wake up out there in Twin Falls. Thanks for everyones help . If this doesn't solve my and her issues there will be a new baler or a divorce. LOL


Here are a few pics of how I mounted the sensors (white arrows, crudely done by someone  ), pic 3 & 8

They recommended fastening the stroke counting sensor to the plunger (this might be easier with an in-line), I just didn't like mounting under the baler where stuff can rub easy. So I manufactured the L-bracket (seen in pics 6-10) that I attached to the feeding forks (NH calls them fingers), pictures 5 -10. The wire is attached from in front of the knotter stacks (see arrow I drew in the dust, pic #5), had to drill a hole.

1-4 pics are of the bale counter, 5-10 is of the stroke counter.





  








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I enclosed the sensor wires in 3/8" plastic wiring loom

https://www.amazon.com/Black-Split-Tubing-Cover-Marine/dp/B00J7RD6ZI?tag=askcomdelta-20

Both sensors are just magnetic sensors in reality.

HTH

Larry

PS you might notice I didn't clean the baler up yet from 2nd cutting.


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## broadriverhay (Jun 13, 2014)

Thanks Larry good info. He said it would ship today. They will configure the cable anyway you want. I had him make mine with a 5' and a 25' section. That will give me 5' in the cab and 25' outside so my connection will be outside the back window. I sure hope she likes her 35th anniversery present. I didnt get her anything last Monday with the social distancing thing going on. I had her social distancing in the tractor baling hay. LOL


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## r82230 (Mar 1, 2016)

broadriverhay said:


> Thanks Larry good info. He said it would ship today. They will configure the cable anyway you want. I had him make mine with a 5' and a 25' section. That will give me 5' in the cab and 25' outside so my connection will be outside the back window. I sure hope she likes her 35th anniversery present. I didnt get her anything last Monday with the social distancing thing going on. I had her social distancing in the tractor baling hay. LOL


The stroke counter (at least mine did) comes with a magnet already attached. So mine is just stuck where you see it (metal between glass on cab). So depending on cab 5' might be tight (at least in my case). I have about 18-24" hanging outside my cab.

Larry

PS congrads on 36th, my wife had her anniversary yesterday. 41 years ago she took some nut off the street and tried to fix him, seems to still be work in progress (I'm thinking could be a lost cause  ).


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## broadriverhay (Jun 13, 2014)

Understand about the cable, yeah 5 might be short. Story of my life!!!


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## broadriverhay (Jun 13, 2014)

Just called he said he would make it 10' . Thanks I had not thought about that.


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## broadriverhay (Jun 13, 2014)

@R82230, thanks for the pictures. I followed your lead on this and did the same install. I like keeping the stroke counter up higher and safe from being snagged by something.


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