# M&W round baler issues



## RacerBill (Jan 26, 2018)

Bought this baler for a small 6 acre pasture. Figured bale enough round bales for 4-5 cows. Hdere is my problem and i am beating my head against the wall.

1. *monitor box,* lights will not light up with full hay, I used my watch to bale 5-6 minutes (1st time lights never came on and bale was so full I spent 4 hours pulling out the bale) and got good bales on watch. Both sensor switches for baler hay drum in back have continuity (volt meter) In fact everything in monitor box has continuity - toggle switch, both lights, twine button. 13 volts to lights and twine button. NO volts to toggle switch or connection wires from box to baler or either sensor switches for hay drum. I know both lights work if I tap with hot wire from toggle switch, they light up. Lights don't work even connected to sensor switches even if I push the little "paddle" up and down. Does this make sense?

2. Twine on left side not catching on or hooking up with twine pick-up. Sometimes I turn off PTO to manually place twine in the pick-up "hook" but I think that messes up the start up as the twine wraps that same area of hay for the longest time. Not sure what I am doing wrong on this one. Seems like that same side the hay edge is not wrapped as good as the other side but the limiters are outward to the edge as much as they can.

Spoke with Artsway-manufacture and all they could tell me was take it to a shop but didn't know of one around northwest Florida area. Heck don't mine driving to have it tuned but still researching for a place.

Thanks for listening, I guess I will have to go back to square baling but sure did like the 8-9 bales I did get even if it was all day jumping off tractor to get the twine to catch and start wrapping.


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## cjsr8595 (Jul 7, 2014)

Regarding the tie problem, open the back hatch, and look and the "metal wings" of the pick up on the inside. If they are bent towards the center of the baler, they will cut the twine on the respective side causing the tie issue. They need to be as flush as possible with the bale chamber.

Take a picture of the twine hook and post it up. If it has a finger broken, it won't pick up the twine as it goes to the left. Or your pressing the feed button to long and the twine finger is passing the twine up before it starts on the bale.

Regarding the lights, do the lights on the box and the baler come on when you jump the wire? If so it sounds like the switches at the gate are bad.

I would download a manual online. I have one for a Krone KR151/M&W1500. What model do you have? You can download the manual here, the older Krone was made by M&W


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## RacerBill (Jan 26, 2018)

I work out of town, will check the wings this weekend.

Lights- jumper hot wire to back of lights to see if they work or burned out but they lite up. Toggle switch "on" and I can push sensor paddle up and down and lights do nothing but volt meter buzzes for continuity if that means anything100%. Thinking both sensors are bad, guy I bought baler from wasn't sure if they worked, been sitting for a while.

Did download manual but grey area for trouble shooting. Will keep at it

Appreciate for help and feedback, Thanks


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## RacerBill (Jan 26, 2018)

Didn't have time to open the back and check out anything this past weekend. Did call Arts Way (M&W 4500 baler) who makes the 2 sensors, quoted me $136 each sensor. Almost fell on the floor. The sensors are very small with 2 wires, can't understand the price for them. I guess supple and demand. I have a demand but my $$ supple is not there yet for that.  Has to be something else out there that sells those sensors??? Back to drawing board.


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## Orchard6 (Apr 30, 2014)

They should be just a simple micro switch. At least that’s whats on my M&W 1500.


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## RacerBill (Jan 26, 2018)

Orchard6 said:


> They should be just a simple micro switch. At least that's whats on my M&W 1500.


It is that's why I can't understand $136 each (micro switch with 2 wires)...&#8230;.A neighbor mentioned to try to blow out all the connections and maybe some dirt is providing a bad connection-keeping both lights from lighting up when I push the sensor Paddles up and down to simulate the drum getting full of hay. Wonder if I can bypass all the wires from monitor to drum by using jumper wires from sensor to lights (holding the sensor in my hand) to see if the sensors are bad? Thanks guys for the replies.


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