# Electric fence and temp post



## robert23239 (May 10, 2009)

Hello All,
I am trying to add some pasture available for the cows this spring. I use steel post and plastic connectors for some fence but I would like to find a better post system.
The steel ones are more time to move them. I have used some of the dark round fiberglass or plastic post, are pretty good and bend but after they bend they don't seem to come come back. I have been using the rope for the fence may switch to tape but the rope seems to work. I am looking for suggestions on a good post system for temp or semi temp electric fencing . Any ideas ?

Thanks all

Robert


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## Waterway64 (Dec 2, 2011)

I use a lot of the step in post with the rubber covered steel loop in the top. For speed they are hard to beat. I also use the rope on cord with reals. I use steel posts for corners.


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## Farmall706 (Sep 4, 2011)

I like to use the pigtail post also, and on corners that will only be up a day or so I add a fiberglass post. Keeps from pulling the pigtail post out.


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## hayray (Feb 23, 2009)

I use the Gallahger pigtail step in post and also go to the local saw meal and get log trimmings and pound them in with a hammer and tie line to them, I get them for free. Save yourself some hassel and switch to polywire from the rope. The rope is more expensive and requries more post and reels and does not work any better then the polywire. For corners I use alot of fiberglass suckerod post.


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## mulberrygrovefamilyfarm (Feb 11, 2009)

Like others, I use the step-ins and polywire for temporary . For my permanent and semi-permanent I use the Geotek fencing. http://geotekinc.com/product.html?divID=2&catID=40


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## Shetland Sheepdog (Mar 31, 2011)

For temp and permanent I used to drive 3" - 4" treated wood posts 30" into the ground at gates, corners, etc. I ran one strand of 14 ga steel wire and supported it every 30' between driven posts with a 3' grade stake driven in 10" and the wire 2' above the ground. I used porcelain insulators at the gates and corners, and black plastic insulators attached to the top of the grade stakes with stove bolts. It was fairly easy to relocate as needed, and kept my small herd of Angus where they were supposed to be! I think that the secret to my success was that feed and water were always available, plus maintain the fence against grounds, and use a high voltage low impedance charger.
JMHO, HTH, Dave


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## Richardin52 (Aug 14, 2011)

Well it depends. If your looking for something temporary and for short distances I'd use braded nylon in a spool for electric fence. If you want something that will stay there and are going some distance I would go with 12.5 ga. high tinsel smooth wire and I'll tell you why. The smaller the wire the more resistance it has. Now look at the size of the wire in braded nylon. That stuff has a lot of resistance and if you do not believe me get a meter and check a long stretch of it sometime.

As far a flat nylon tape goes if you have a lot of wind stay away from it. Wind tends to make it twist and move, if you twist and flex metal long enough what happens to it, you tell me.

As far as posts, for braded nylon wire use anything that is easy. I use step in posts but I only use this stuff to separate paddocks. For high tinsel wire I use floating corner braces, because I am certified organic I use local cedar drill my holes and back fill them with crushed stone so no soil touches the posts. In between the corners and gates I use 1/2 inch rebar. It's cheap, if it bends I can bend it back, the ribs on the rebar will hold the insulators in place very well, they will last for ever, they are easy to pull and move if needed and they are OK for organic operations. Make sure you use tension springs if you use high tinsel because the wire will shrink in the winter.

Oh ya make sure you get a charger that is hotter than the hinges of h&ll and use the amount of ground rods it recommends. My charger cost $1,000.00 and I use 6 ground rods on 4 miles of fence. It was worth every cent. Nothing goes through my fence


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