# Removing Lacing pins on Deere baler



## hay-man (Oct 6, 2012)

Replaced all but 1 of the lacing pins on my 567 yesterday. The one I couldn't get out is broken into 2 pieces, I worked on it for an hour or so with a pic and couldn't get it out. Anybody have any tricks for getting these out? Guess I can just run it till it breaks and repair it in the field, but I hate doing field repairs!


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## JLP (Aug 5, 2013)

Dremmel tool with cut off wheel works. It is tedious, but it works.


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## 8350HiTech (Jul 26, 2013)

You mean it's broken in a way that you can't get a pair of vise grips on anywhere?


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## hay-man (Oct 6, 2012)

That is correct, there is nothing left sticking out to get pliers on.


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## random_farmhick (Jan 30, 2012)

I take a piece of 1/8" welding rod, knock the flux off of it and use that to drive the pins out when they are broke. I did a complete baler that every single one was broke in at least 3 pieces and never had to change a lace or get a dremel out to potentially damage the hooks. Just make sure your belts are loose and take all tension off of the laces, 5 or 10 minutes per belt normally.


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## r82230 (Mar 1, 2016)

random_farmhick said:


> I take a piece of 1/8" welding rod, knock the flux off of it and use that to drive the pins out when they are broke. I did a complete baler that every single one was broke in at least 3 pieces and never had to change a lace or get a dremel out to potentially damage the hooks. Just make sure your belts are loose and take all tension off of the laces, 5 or 10 minutes per belt normally.


I have used a piece of high tensile wire for same purpose (with no tension on belts naturally). I might be too cheap to waste a welding rod, however.

Larry


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## Tx Jim (Jun 30, 2014)

As others stated one needs a punch of some sort to drive broken pieces out of lacings. Turning each belt lacing at an angle of about 75° helps relieve tension on pin worn areas. The degree of difficulty of removing broken pins reminds one that pins should be changed every 1000-2000 bales as outlined in operators manual


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## cannonball (Jun 23, 2012)

hay-man said:


> Replaced all but 1 of the lacing pins on my 567 yesterday. The one I couldn't get out is broken into 2 pieces, I worked on it for an hour or so with a pic and couldn't get it out. Anybody have any tricks for getting these out? Guess I can just run it till it breaks and repair it in the field, but I hate doing field repairs!


I always changed my pins at 300 to 350 bales..locked gate shut and run baler watching lacing from tractor, raise tensioner or gate valve and change pins in front,,when one has broken, you can get help to hold belts pushed together and use new pin using flat end , some times you have to use hammer to bump pin always had good luck in front...In almost 30000 rolls never had lacing pull out...


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## Vol (Jul 5, 2009)

Use the replacement pins to push any pieces out.

Regards, Mike


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## NebTrac (Aug 12, 2014)

Vol said:


> Use the replacement pins to push any pieces out.
> 
> Regards, Mike


That's what I have done as well, they hold up well too. I tend to change mine per 1500 bales or so.

Troy


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## 8350HiTech (Jul 26, 2013)

What might you guys be paying for JD (or aftermarket) lacing?


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## Vol (Jul 5, 2009)

Been awhile since l had to buy lacing. JD has two styles, original staple type and the later alligator style lacing. Gator style lacing is much heavier. I will check later.

Regards, Mike


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## hay-man (Oct 6, 2012)

Yes, these pins have been in way too long. I bought this baler used last month and am just now getting some free time to go through it and do some maintenance. I will definitely be changing them out more frequently as they are a pain to get out when worn!


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## 8350HiTech (Jul 26, 2013)

Vol said:


> Been awhile since l had to buy lacing. JD has two styles, original staple type and the later alligator style lacing. Gator style lacing is much heavier. I will check later.
> 
> Regards, Mike


Thanks. NH makes you buy a "kit" for lacing that is insanely high, $50 or something, and all you get is 6 pins and a 1/4" thick instruction book. I'd like to avoid that. They use the smaller staple-type lacing.


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## mike10 (May 29, 2011)

New Holland has run several different laces recently. You have the clipper, the aligator, and the mato brand, same as JD. My least favorite at this point is the aligator. The mato's have not been in the field long enough for me to make a judgement. The problem we have with the aligator lacings is they are wearing out too fast. You need to keep in mind that we run 5 x 6 balers and most of the balers are running wet hay so there is more pressure on the lacings then running smaller balers in dry hay.

I agree with 8350HiTech the NH lacing cables are too high, but these cables will last 4000 bales in our conditions. While the cables are slightly under 40.00 for eight cables the ability to last considerably longer than the other alternatives brings the cost per bale down under what other brands of lacing cables/wires cost. These cables are for clipper lacings.


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## clowers (Feb 11, 2011)

A bag of replacement pins and thirty minutes of time every 1000 bales or so and I usually have no trouble changing pins.


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## Tx Jim (Jun 30, 2014)

JD Mato pins PN E85147 cost $2.22 each


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## hay-man (Oct 6, 2012)

I got a chance to work on the bad pin again yesterday. Used a welding rod and straight tip pick on opposite end to help center the worn pin. Got it out in about 5 minutes! Thanks for all the tips!


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## Bruce Hopf (Jun 29, 2016)

Thanks for starting this thread, as i have learned something new, for workimg on my baler, once again. I started doing the lacing pins, in the belting, on my baler, that I recently bought, as well, at the start of the month. 
This baler I think, had been sitting for a while, at the dealership, as I had a hard time, getting a few of them to start, as they were kind of seized in, had to use a Punch Kit, to get them started enough, to sneak a pair of Vice Grips, on the end, and hit the vice grips, with the hammer, to get them out far enough, an inch, inch and a half, and then use the new pins, to finish driving out, the old pins. Have two belts, left to go, in the morning, and the baler, will be ready to go, for doing straw. Thank you, for everyone's tips, and advice, for doing this job. Once I get the rest of the pins done, I know, it will be an easier job, the next time, I go to do the pins.


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## Tx Jim (Jun 30, 2014)

After you get pin out far enough to get a grip with vice grip pliers are you turning pin 90° in lacing to get groove in pin out of lacing?


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## Bruce Hopf (Jun 29, 2016)

No, I never thought to turn the pins, but it does make sense, to do so, as the pins are slotted.


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## Tx Jim (Jun 30, 2014)

Bruce Hopf said:


> No, I never thought to turn the pins, but it does make sense, to do so, as the pins are slotted.


Plus as pins wear the slot GROWS IE gets deeper.


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## Bruce Hopf (Jun 29, 2016)

Maybe I should have asked this before, but here it goes. When I put in the New Pins, is there any way they need to be turned, or lined up, or will they work themselves, into places? Learning as I go here. Thanks again, for all the help, and advice.


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## r82230 (Mar 1, 2016)

Bruce Hopf said:


> Maybe I should have asked this before, but here it goes. When I put in the New Pins, is there any way they need to be turned, or lined up, or will they work themselves, into places? Learning as I go here. Thanks again, for all the help, and advice.


I have had pins that had little circle clamps that you squeeze with pliers on each end and some with nothing, that you just bend (opposite direction belt is turning naturally). Could be other kinds out there also.

Larry


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## Tx Jim (Jun 30, 2014)

Bruce

The pins for the Mato lacings that JD utilizes have ridges made into the pins so there's no need to bend end of pin PLUS pin is so stiff it would be very difficult to bend Mato pin over.


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## Bruce Hopf (Jun 29, 2016)

I just drove the new pins in, while driving the old pins out, at the same time. I turned the old pins, a 1/4, of a turn, like you had said, and they came out, with ease. What I was trying to ask earlier, for the Matco pins, like you were talking about Jim, once the new pins are in, do I need to turn the pins, a special way, or will they just work their way, into place, grooves in the pins, to match the slots, in the belfing, itself, or do I need to line, everything up, when I'm finished, installing the new pins?


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## rajela (Feb 15, 2014)

Just put them in Bruce they will get right by their self.


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## Bruce Hopf (Jun 29, 2016)

rajela said:


> Just put them in Bruce they will get right by their self.


Thanks for the help, and advice, I greatly appreciate it. Now I'm all set, to do straw.


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## IHCman (Aug 27, 2011)

Like all others have said previously, I use the new pin to push the old one out. Can do it by hand if done every 1000 bales and belts are loose.

New pins generally stay put, but every once in a while I notice one will drift out some after I change pins. I try to keep an eye on them after I change them until I make 100 bales or so.


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## Bruce Hopf (Jun 29, 2016)

I was able, to get the rest of the pins done, the other on Friday, turned the pins, 1/4, of a turn, a d found it much easier, to drive the old pins out, while driving the new ones in, with ease. Thanks again, for all the help, and advice, on doing this job.


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