# Discbine buying advice



## JD3430

I think I have my 1499 haybine sold. Anxious to get the PT discbine shopping underway.
Due to typical budetary constraints (I.O.W....I'm BROKE), I have to buy used.
Theres tons of units for sale around me.
My wish list is:
13'
Center pivot
shock pro type hubs
Rubber rolls

Preferred:
540 PTO
13 cut width

Please let me know of anything else I might want to consider or if 540 is a mistake. Bigger tractor has 1000 PTO, but switching shafts is a new thing to me and I cant see the reason to go to 1000 unless it's a lot better performance.
I heard the older NH's like the 1431 can be outfitted with shock pro hubs.


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## Vol

Be hard to beat a used 1431 that has been treated kindly.

Regards, Mike


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## JD3430

Vol said:


> Be hard to beat a used 1431 that has been treated kindly.
> 
> Regards, Mike


Do you think the shock pro hubs are a big deal? Do the older units break easily and require expensive repairs.


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## Bob M

I had several 1431's and never had a issue with cutter bar hitting anything. Shock pro hubs are nice but if your fields are clean I would not worry about it. You might want to pull all the caps on any used discbine you want to buy. Not hard to do and can see inside each module. Check conditioning rolls bearings, they have a reputation of failing. Not a huge deal to put new ones in. Bob


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## JD3430

Shake rolls and see if theres play in the ends?


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## mlappin

Get under the hood and pull the fill plugs in the gearboxes and see if it's contaminated with any metal shavings. The fill plugs have built in dipsticks. Check the drivelines as well, NH is very anal on x number of shots per grease in the driveline every 8 hours. If one of the shafts is wore it can cause vibration and will cost buko bucks to replace.

Grab the either turtle on the end and check to see how much slop is in the cutter bar assembly. Want to say I have less than a 1/8 of a turn from one end to the other. Grab each turtle as well and rotate it both directions to check for slop, a lot of slop can indicate worn bearings, worn gears, or it got run dry, or all of the above.


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## JD3430

Mucho gracias. Keep the tips coming.
What about Deere, Vermeer, others?


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## mlappin

I should make myself more clear. Turn one turtle on either end and see how far you have to turn it before you see movement at the opposite end. You have ten units on a thirteen footer with a short splined shaft between each gearbox. Too much play could indicate excessive wear in the splines.

Get the swivel hitch as well. The straight hitches sell cheaper but the swivel is well worth it. I prefer the hitch type instead of two point but that's up to you. If you go with the hitch type bolt your drawbar down solid, will save a lot of wear and tear on the tractor hitch and mounting hardware.


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## slowzuki

There are some great deals in the bigger discbines, low hour units in good shape. I've seen 4 mint machines locally sell in the last 2 years, 3 NH's, 1 hesston, 1 MF (I think hesston under the paint?). They fetched about 1/2 of new with 5-200 hours of run time. The older sidepull units are getting really cheap, I kinda wish I'd held off on buying my really rough 3309/5209. I could of had a good condition one for not much more.


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## 6125

mlappin said:


> Get under the hood and pull the fill plugs in the gearboxes and see if it's contaminated with any metal shavings. The fill plugs have built in dipsticks. Check the drivelines as well, NH is very anal on x number of shots per grease in the driveline every 8 hours. If one of the shafts is wore it can cause vibration and will cost buko bucks to replace.
> 
> Grab the either turtle on the end and check to see how much slop is in the cutter bar assembly. Want to say I have less than a 1/8 of a turn from one end to the other. Grab each turtle as well and rotate it both directions to check for slop, a lot of slop can indicate worn bearings, worn gears, or it got run dry, or all of the above.


Not to hy-jack this thread, but why on many used 1411 discbines does the cutter bar from one end to the other, "dip down" in the middle? In other words, the cutter bar sags down in the center . I don't know if the bigger center pivot machines do this, but it might be something a body should look out for. Mine is this way right now, but havn't tore into it yet.


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## mlappin

BTW you won't be able to get a NH 13 footer in a 540 model. Only one I know of is New Ideal had a 12 footer in 540 rpm.


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## Nitram

JD3430 said:


> Mucho gracias. Keep the tips coming.
> What about Deere, Vermeer, others?


I really like my Vermeer 1030 has the two point hitch but it's 1000 pto $15,000 used of course. Martin


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## Chessiedog

My self I perfer the 2 point hook up. Had New Idea 12 footer with draw bar hitch an swivel it jerked my tractor around a lot more then the NH 2 point swivel hitch does . But I just have 100 hp tactor , bigger tractor would handle it better I would guess .


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## swmnhay

_X2 on Vermeer 1030.I'm on my 6th one and have only had 1 bearing replaced.It doesnt need shear hubs they just don't break that easy,unlike some horror stories I've heard with other brands.Also have heard of some major drive shaft issues on others._

_It only comes in 1000 rpm with 2 pt hitch._


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## mlappin

Chessiedog said:


> My self I perfer the 2 point hook up. Had New Idea 12 footer with draw bar hitch an swivel it jerked my tractor around a lot more then the NH 2 point swivel hitch does . But I just have 100 hp tactor , bigger tractor would handle it better I would guess .


That's where bolting the hitch down tight comes in. Even my 499 would push the tractor around some if you didn't bolt the hitch solid so it can't swing. Just dropping the pins in either side of the hitch like normally used creates enough play to let the mower shove the tractor around.


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## endrow

We have run 1431's (on our second one ) Had one with standard hitch and didnt like it.. Went to drawbar mounted swivel hitch we like that. Never had 2 point hitch. Never seen a1431 with 540. I know NH says for 1431 the tractor drawbar or 3point which ever one you are using needs to be min. catagory 3


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## SVFHAY

6125 said:


> Not to hy-jack this thread, but why on many used 1411 discbines does the cutter bar from one end to the other, "dip down" in the middle? In other words, the cutter bar sags down in the center . I don't know if the bigger center pivot machines do this, but it might be something a body should look out for. Mine is this way right now, but havn't tore into it yet.


when mine sagged like this it was the 2 large bolt that connect adjacent gearboxes together. They loosened and this damaged the splines on the short shaft also.


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## JD3430

I like the looks of the Vermeer disc cutters and kind of wish I had bought a Vermeer round baler. I have yet to see a Vermeer discbine in my area. Something tells me they're more well built.

On edit: Mike was right. 13' cutter is 1000 rpm. Also requires cat 2 hitch or Cat 3 drawbar. So I guess if I want to find a used 13', I need the 2 point hitch. Presumably to distribute the load better????


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## mlappin

JD3430 said:


> On edit: Mike was right. 13' cutter is 1000 rpm. Also requires cat 2 hitch or Cat 3 drawbar. So I guess if I want to find a used 13', I need the 2 point hitch. Presumably to distribute the load better????


Doesn't matter, the hitch type swivel uses an adapter plate that bolts to your tractor hitch to extend it, I just much prefer the hitch style as I take the lift arms off all my haymaking tractors. Saves on banged up shins and knees and impossible to bend a pto shaft with a liftarm if the liftarm is stored in a shed.


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## JD3430

Does Deere offer discbine a with their own shock pro hub variant?
Looks like Deere and NH/case-IH will be the choices in my area.


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## jdhayfarmer

John deere has a shear hub if you hit something it takes 5 minutes to fix! I've been running the John Deere 946 and 956 for years have had nothing but good luck with them.


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## JD3430

jdhayfarmer said:


> John deere has a shear hub if you hit something it takes 5 minutes to fix! I've been running the John Deere 946 and 956 for years have had nothing but good luck with them.


Nice, how far back by model # or model year does this go?


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## gradyjohn

If memory serves me correct all the 900 series moco's. Based on that ?? back to 1995 I think. I had a 1470 early in the 90's and don't remember if I had it. The 945 and 946 has each disc is a seperate unit ... so if you mess up the gears on one you can take that one out and fix it.


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## JD3430

gradyjohn said:


> If memory serves me correct all the 900 series moco's. Based on that ?? back to 1995 I think. I had a 1470 early in the 90's and don't remember if I had it. The 945 and 946 has each disc is a seperate unit ... so if you mess up the gears on one you can take that one out and fix it.


How much does that cost? sounds more expensive than the shock hubs.


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## FarmerCline

If it were me I would get the drawbar swivel hitch, I do not like the two point hitch for reasons mlappin stated and also the fact that it is harder to hook up and you can't pull it behind a truck. I know you wanted the center pivot but what about the side pull 10 foot cut with the bent tongue? You could get 540 pto and the newer New Holland has the swivel hitch option. I don't know what a nice used center pivot would cost but you might be able to get a new side pull 10 foot cut for about the same money and have it equipped the way you want it. My New Holland dealer quoted me about 21,000 for a 7230 rubber rolls, shock pro hubs, hydraulic tilt and tongue swing, drawbar swivel hitch, and a high stubble kit. I think Vermeers 10 foot side pull model is the mc840. I have not got a quote for the Vermeer because but I assume it is similar to the New Holland.


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## haybaler101

6125 said:


> Not to hy-jack this thread, but why on many used 1411 discbines does the cutter bar from one end to the other, "dip down" in the middle? In other words, the cutter bar sags down in the center . I don't know if the bigger center pivot machines do this, but it might be something a body should look out for. Mine is this way right now, but havn't tore into it yet.


A cutterbar with a swag in it has loose bolts between the segments. If run long enough like this, it causes excessive wear to segments and will not stay tight. It also will bend upward and chew up the bottom roller. Learned from experience. My 1431 came loose the first time while under warranty and NH replaced the segments and the bottom roller. The second time, I twisted a shaft off and didn't retorque to specs and chewed up roller again. Traded it off for H7450 with shock pro hubs. Now if we hit a rock, we can replace a hub in about 15 minutes where as before we were down for several hours to drop the cutterbar and replace a twisted off shaft. I found out that you torque the cutter bar with a six foot cheater bar if you want it stay tight.


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## mlappin

We have more JD dealers in the area than NH, but I've never even seen a JD discbine before, just an observation.


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## JD3430

I have both red and green nearby. Good relationship with red dealer. I like your suggestions on 10' model with side tongue.
Cutting is not what really kills me for time, waiting for hay to dry, Ted, rake is what seems to never end. Round baling goes fast.
I guess a 10' would suffice, but 13 would be a lot faster. Dealer has nice side pull 10' used but very clean.


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## JD3430

There's so many 2-5 yr old units for sale. WHY?
Why would anyone give up on a unit so new?


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## Nitram

Just a guess but I think that the BTO/Custom cutter guys who do a lot of acres trade in at optimum value where the repairs and time down don't screw them. remember they are going balls to the wall every chance they have in order to get that much done! Now this is just an opinion but my next on I hope to buy new or from someone I know how they treat their equip. Martin


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## swmnhay

JD3430 said:


> There's so many 2-5 yr old units for sale. WHY?
> Why would anyone give up on a unit so new?


I trade every 2-3 yrs.I was running alot more acres a few yrs back and I wanted a newer machine.

Less chance of breakdown.

It wasn't costing me much to trade on per acre basis $1-$2 per acre.(can't get it done for that now)

Tax deduction.

Warranty.


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## JD3430

Used Kuhn's are thousands cheaper than used New Hollands. 
The temptation to buy a new 72xx discbine is going to be tough to resist.
It's an easy buy. They have them in stock and the dealer is very close by.


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## hillside hay

One of my cousins uses kuhn the rest are deere. The deere guys claim they don't slide downhill on you as much. My cousin that runs kuhn also is commercial hay operator. I've never heard any of them cmplain about theirs. I have noticed that most guys in this area who do dry hay use deere kuhn and ni almost exclusively. The majority of nh discbnes I see are on larger dairies that stick mainly to chopped forages. Maybe coincidence just my observation.


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## JD3430

I got the JD sales pitch on their discbine a today. They say their shear hub only costs $60 to replace where NH costs like 150 to fix. 
He told me their cutter bar is stiffer and the overall machine is built stronger for tough conditions (ground hog holes, etc.) He also said that Deere mocos have their rollers places closest to the cutter bar and cut flat, rather than an angled cut like on NH.

I like what I heard, but.....you gotta take it with a grain of salt.

One more question: grass hay- steel or rubber rollers? JD guy recommended flail conditioning!


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## mlappin

You're Deere dealer is full of beans. Last time I priced a kit to convert to the shock hubs it was around $150 a kit which included enough parts to do two discs at a time. It included two hubs, several washers and two new higher profile covers.


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## swmnhay

JD3430 said:


> I got the JD sales pitch on their discbine a today. They say their shear hub only costs $60 to replace where NH costs like 150 to fix.
> He told me their cutter bar is stiffer and the overall machine is built stronger for tough conditions (ground hog holes, etc.) He also said that Deere mocos have their rollers places closest to the cutter bar and cut flat, rather than an angled cut like on NH.
> 
> I like what I heard, but.....you gotta take it with a grain of salt.
> 
> One more question: grass hay- steel or rubber rollers? JD guy recommended flail conditioning!


If just grass hay go with flail conditioner.It will dry better.And it should be cheaper then rollers.

Jeeze I'm glad I've never had to buy shear hubs that could get spendy!!!I think I'll stick with my Vermeer.


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## Bob M

I think a NH shear hub is in the $30 to $40 range. Not sure, luckly we do not replace very often. I had to replace one a couple years ago in a newly rented field.


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## JD3430

So back to flail conditioning: flails take the crop and beat it against an abrasive "ceiling" under the hood. This removes part of waxy coating, maybe cracks the grasses open. Is that the concept?

Mike, you use NH disc cutter? Which one ? 
Thanks


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## mlappin

JD3430 said:


> So back to flail conditioning: flails take the crop and beat it against an abrasive "ceiling" under the hood. This removes part of waxy coating, maybe cracks the grasses open. Is that the concept?


Yup. Also strips the leaves right off any legumes. If your planning on making any alfalfa now or in the future stick with rolls.


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## somedevildawg

That's the idea jd, and you are right, flail for grass. Although the rollers will work with grass, they are not as effective as the flails, the flails also do a good job of spreading out the grass with less winrowing. I don't think the reverse is true, flails on alfalfa would probably not work out too well, but I can only assume as I find it hard to spell alfalfa much less grow it....


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## mlappin

somedevildawg said:


> That's the idea jd, and you are right, flail for grass. Although the rollers will work with grass, they are not as effective as the flails, the flails also do a good job of spreading out the grass with less winrowing. I don't think the reverse is true, flails on alfalfa would probably not work out too well, but I can only assume as I find it hard to spell alfalfa much less grow it....


Not entirely true, throw in a set of aftermarket conditioning rolls and grass will dry just fine as well, really helps in drying alfalfa out.


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## somedevildawg

mlappin said:


> Not entirely true, throw in a set of aftermarket conditioning rolls and grass will dry just fine as well, really helps in drying alfalfa out.


No, I would respectfully say, entirely true, flails are for grass, rollers are for legumes.....that's why they make two different ones, like I said before they WILL work for grass, plenty of people in areas like you and JD use them for both, flails however are designed to work more effectively in grass....some people down here use rollers for perennial peanut hay, but for conditioning tift 85 Bermuda the choice is generally flails, although a crimper/roller could be used just about as effectively, my choice for grass only would be flails....although up n y'all's area I would probably be cutting some of that "high octane" hay so I would not even consider flails......and for the record, you don't see a whole lot of new Hollands down here, hardly ever a Vermeer, every once in a while a kuhn or a claas, mostly moco's with flails....


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## JD3430

Good deal? Good machine? Deere 830 moco

http://www.tractorhouse.com/listingsdetail/detail.aspx?OHID=7360203


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## askinner

JD3430 said:


> Good deal? Good machine? Deere 830 moco
> 
> http://www.tractorho...px?OHID=7360203


I don't know squat about the machine itself JD, but it has two features that annoy me about a little discbine I have: 1: Too small if you are doing any more than a few acres a month, I believe you said you want to/are doing custom work? If that's the case, I personally would go for an 11' machine, good trade between productivity and manouverability. 2: Fixed front PTO! It drives me up the wall to the point I changed the way I cut! I know the pivot hitches are more expensive, but if you're doing irregular shaped fields, you're tractors transmission will love you for it.
And one more word of advice coming from someone who's learned the hard way; is don't be tempted to buy a machine that has all the bells and whistles, but is cheap because it has done a billion acres! I made that mistake, and my dealer loved me for it. I have no idea why, but take a $10 part, put it on a discbine, and it's now worth $100!
Neat looking machine though, it looks as though it has been well cared for.


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## Nitram

PTO hp required? Have more tractor than you need!


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## mlappin

Just get a 13 footer and be done with it. I'm running my 1431 with a 110hp tractor. I think it has a touch more than stock horsepower. I made one guys first cutting for him in AUGUST, down, rank and heavy didn't even begin to describe it but the "110hp" tractor did run it. Was done to the lowest gear I had in spots but this was a extreme situation as well, most of the time I have no problems running 8mph in heavy first cutting.

Unless you plan on doing only grass, stay away from flail or impeller conditioners.


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## 6125

This might be a dumb question, but will his 4 star peque tedder work with a 13' mower? Tedding apart straw windrows behind my 12' cut combine, it just barely catches the material. I'm thinking it's gonna be close, but maybe I'm wrong.


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## JD3430

Great points you all are making.
Right now, I'm cutting hay with a 12' haybine. My guess is even a 9'-8" discbine will blow the doors off the bigger haybine in speed.
You guys are right, I want to go bigger.
Flails should be OK since I'm only doing grasses.

Mike, I dont know if my hitch will handle a 13' discbine. I would probably have to go with a 2-point hitch?

On the tedding question: I dont think the windrows exiting the discbine would be wider than the tedder I have.


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## SVFHAY

Flail machines are cheaper to build and don't cause warranty issues. This is why dealers/manufacturers push them. Flail machines will wear a long time, won't plug and don't require close adjustment to dry hay. This is why farmers like them.

Leaves=quality(grass has leaves too)=rolls

Mlappin is right, aftermarket rolls dry hay fastest.

How many machines are out there to recondition and speed drying after the crop is cut? How many of them are flail?

I had a Deere moco and now a new Holland. That Deere cutterbar was bulletproof, lots of abuse and the rest of the machine had many new parts but never got in the cutterbar.


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## slowzuki

We used rubber roller machines for years in grass hay. Works fine. When they start to come apart is the problem. Lots of $ and work to replace. Often cheaper to replace the whole machine on a sickle unit. The summer they started to come apart, I spent more time under the machine cutting than in the tractor seat.

It was replaced with a flail machine. If you adjust the flail gentle enough to match the roller dry down, I can't tell a difference in leaf loss. It still uses a bit more power I think but rocks, sticks, aluminum camper awnings (not fun) etc go through without damage. Rocks beat up the NH style vulcanized rollers here, blistering them off the steel roll. The stacked segmented rubber rollers last much better, flails don't care unless you use the nylon fingers.

I'm very happy with my flail machine in grass hay. On my machine you can drop the conditioner or exchange it for a roller style, the problem is nothing sucks down hay back up in like a flail. Even mowing over tractor tracks it will suck the hay back up.


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## JD3430

I hate clogs. Do discbines clog like haybines? I hope not.


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## Nitram

JD3430 said:


> I hate clogs. Do discbines clog like haybines? I hope not.


NO with the Flail they don't but not sure if the rollers will plug like they do on haybines


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## mlappin

JD3430 said:


> I hate clogs. Do discbines clog like haybines? I hope not.


The only thing I've had approaching a clog is in late short cutting hay that had a LOT of grass in it. This was only a problem first thing in the AM. I'm not a certified engineer by any means, but here is what I think is happening. With the dew on the short hay, the lifters on the turtles couldn't throw it high enough for the rollers to grab it and pull it thru, so it started to build up between the turtles eventually leaving a streak of uncut grass. BUT, I didn't have to unplug it, stop and lift the mower up and leave it run at WOT and it clears itself out.

I absolutely love my C&C rollers, but in the case of extremely wet and short grass I don't think they are aggressive enough to pull it thru.

Mow in the afternoons and ted the next AM then mow the next field that afternoon once it's good and dry and absolutely no problems.


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## mlappin

Nitram said:


> NO with the Flail they don't but not sure if the rollers will plug like they do on haybines


In normal hay, I've never plugged a discbine, but see above post.


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## slowzuki

JD3430 said:


> I hate clogs. Do discbines clog like haybines? I hope not.


I don't think you can clog a flail one, you can run already cut hay through it, pretty much anything. I had to do some mowing for a neighbour with their sickle machine last summer, I forgot and plugged it trying to cut the last strip. Had forgot how picky they were.


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## JD3430

John Deere's moco numbers are a crazy mess of confusion. Is the any meaning to the 3 numbers? Like 955, 630, etc. for example?


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## farmin14

Flails! Flails and more flails! The two most under estimated pieces of machinery for drying grass hay are mowers with flails and rotary rakes. We have mowed and baled in the same day before. Obviously conditions were perfect to do that but since we have the new mower and rotary rakes we never need 3 days any more 2 is plenty. We run Krone everything. (Other than the baler).


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## barnrope

I got to learn about the shock hub thing last summer on my 08' 1431 with 2 pt hitch. Wish I'd put them on before I tried to mow a rock garden! Fixed it right and traded for a new NH 7450 last month. I have been thinking about Vermeer because I already have a yellow baler and rake. Does Vermeer have hub protection like the NH shock Pro's? Has anyone here worked on both NH and Vermeer so they can compare? Next time the trade light comes on it may be a Vermeer...maybe.

On the other hand, to go in a whole different direction, a self propelled would be pretty nice though!


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## JD3430

Now you're talkin!!
I can get a SP for not a heck of a lot more than a PT, but a PT is what I'll need to do for the next few years. 
I'm gonna end up with Deere or NH. NH is easy to figure out. Deere is all over the place with the numbers. 
I think I should get a 11', not a 13'. My fields are too small to turn the big boys in.


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## Grateful11

JD3430 said:


> Now you're talkin!!
> I can get a SP for not a heck of a lot more than a PT, but a PT is what I'll need to do for the next few years.
> I'm gonna end up with Deere or NH. NH is easy to figure out. Deere is all over the place with the numbers.
> I think I should get a 11', not a 13'. My fields are too small to turn the big boys in.


You lost me, doesn't take much, what is SP and PT ?


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## swmnhay

barnrope said:


> I got to learn about the shock hub thing last summer on my 08' 1431 with 2 pt hitch. Wish I'd put them on before I tried to mow a rock garden! Fixed it right and traded for a new NH 7450 last month. I have been thinking about Vermeer because I already have a yellow baler and rake. Does Vermeer have hub protection like the NH shock Pro's? Has anyone here worked on both NH and Vermeer so they can compare? Next time the trade light comes on it may be a Vermeer...maybe.
> 
> On the other hand, to go in a whole different direction, a self propelled would be pretty nice though!


I've been sold on Vermeer cutters since the first one I had.Taking on some new estabished alfalfa ground and finding all the rocks when i started cutting.We ran a few hundred rock threw it from baseball to football sized with a few bigger then that on 265 acres.The only damage was blades.That sold me on them.On my 6 th one now.I've talked to other people with other brands and here horror stories after hitting 1 rock.


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## JD3430

Grateful11 said:


> You lost me, doesn't take much, what is SP and PT ?


Sp= self propelled
Pt= pull type


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## Nitram

And BR wants a SP with SH. Yes this is a test!


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## barnrope

swmnhay said:


> I've been sold on Vermeer cutters since the first one I had.Taking on some new estabished alfalfa ground and finding all the rocks when i started cutting.We ran a few hundred rock threw it from baseball to football sized with a few bigger then that on 265 acres.The only damage was blades.That sold me on them.On my 6 th one now.I've talked to other people with other brands and here horror stories after hitting 1 rock.


Have you ever hit any of those big rocks running along at a pretty good speed? Maybe I shoulda turned all yellow....


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## Nitram

barnrope said:


> Have you ever hit any of those big rocks running along at a pretty good speed? Maybe I shoulda turned all yellow....


Plowed a couple of terraces this yr with mine 1st time using it and the hydr were slow with the 7700 Ford no damage. And they look great behind a big green tractor. lol


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## Bob M

JD 3430, do you have your SP haybine listed on craislist? if so nice looking machine.


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## JD3430

Thanks. Someone just flagged it for removal. Nice, huh? 
Did you call me about it last week? Somebody with 410 area code called me about it on Thursday or Friday......
The discbine I had my eye on just sold. I will have to start looking again...


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## swmnhay

barnrope said:


> Have you ever hit any of those big rocks running along at a pretty good speed? Maybe I shoulda turned all yellow....


Most were hit at 7 mph.When you hit something with cutter bar the linkage design causes bar to go back and up.Redusing the impact.Also the design of the drive shaft threw the modules is supposed to give it a little give to reduce damage.It is possible to twist it although I never have.

Next time you get this way I can show it to you.

I wish they had a wider model at times.It is 13' 4".


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## Bob M

JD3430 said:


> Thanks. Someone just flagged it for removal. Nice, huh?
> Did you call me about it last week? Somebody with 410 area code called me about it on Thursday or Friday......
> The discbine I had my eye on just sold. I will have to start looking again...


No wasn't me, I have two NH H7450's. I just saw it by chance. If I hear of any one looking for one I will let you know. Bob


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## mgilbert61

WOW !! I don't think there was anything left uncovered here. So JD3430....I spent probably 3+mths looking into moco's. Been running NH 1411. Just bought NH H7230 draw bar swivel w/ shoe extensions. I have too many small fields to get in and out for 13'. Got it for really good $ out of WI. Local guys couldn't even come close.
Mlappin - great tips on bolting down the hitch. Am I correct there is a plate or something? Get it from NH?


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## JD3430

mgilbert61 said:


> WOW !! I don't think there was anything left uncovered here. So JD3430....I spent probably 3+mths looking into moco's. Been running NH 1411. Just bought NH H7230 draw bar swivel w/ shoe extensions. I have too many small fields to get in and out for 13'. Got it for really good $ out of WI. Local guys couldn't even come close.
> Mlappin - great tips on bolting down the hitch. Am I correct there is a plate or something? Get it from NH?


The end of the story:
I just handshaked on a 7230 with 10'-4" cut. I looked at the 13' machine and to my dealers credit, he 's been to my fields and he and I agreed its too much machine for my smaller fields. The 13' cost was considerably higher, too. I thought I'd miiss the center pivot, but one nice thing about the NH side pulls is they actually center behind the tractor for roading. I figured I'd rarely cut over my left shoulder, too.
The finance programs just changed this month for the worse, but I still think I got a good deal. The program is .9% for 72 months. With that program you pay the least interest back. I only end up paying about $500 in interest. Weird, huh? I like the low payments, though. I was haggling a little with dealer and at the last minute, they presented me with a $500 customer appreciation coupon. So that took more off an already good deal and that cemented it for me. They sold me my BR round baler and were pretty good to me on that deal, too. 
I also got the swivel tongue options. Also went with rubber rolls. I wanted steel, but I thought that if I push a rock or a deer through the steel rollers, I might bend something. The rubber won't dry hay down quite as fast, but it's more forgiving and in MY AREA, 90% of all discbine rolls are rubber, so resale is a bit better and the machine has more appeal to a larger buying audience and easier to sell.
Trade in is important because I'm gonna make it big in this business and when I get the "BIG TUNA", I'm gonna trade the discbine for a nice Deere 4995 or NH 365!!!!!! LOL









Thanks for all the help. Your suggestions were great. I wish I had the fields for a 13' machine with center pivot, but I'd be cussing up a storm dragging it through narrow openings and down trails to get to the small fields.
You guys are the best.


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## SVFHAY

Congrats, you'll be happy with it.


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## swmnhay

_Just a comment on 13-15' swing tongues in small odd shaped fields comapared to a 10' that tongue is on side._

_You steer the swing tongues in tight areas and they will actually work better then a smaller cutter in small and odd shaped fields.A triangle shaped field you can cut from 1 side with swing tongue what are you going to do with a side tongue._

_A dealer telling you different has never ran both._


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## rjmoses

Hint on NH 7230 moco's: Close the hydraulic locking valve after you swing it open so that it is locked open.

This keeps it from closing while you are mowing so that if you accidentally use the wrong lever (like I did) thinking that you're lifting the cutter bar, you won't damage the drive line.

It means two more trips in and out of the tractor cab, but that's a lot cheaper than replacing parts.

Ralph


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## JD3430

swmnhay said:


> _Just a comment on 13-15' swing tongues in small odd shaped fields comapared to a 10' that tongue is on side._
> 
> _You steer the swing tongues in tight areas and they will actually work better then a smaller cutter in small and odd shaped fields.A triangle shaped field you can cut from 1 side with swing tongue what are you going to do with a side tongue._
> 
> _A dealer telling you different has never ran both._


I do believe that is true, but I have openings into fields that are too small and tight for a 13 ft wide moco. Some are "Z" shaped entrances that a 13' moco is too long to get into. The side pull is about 5 feet shorter.
I think the swivel tongue on the side pull will add maneuverability.


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## Nitram

Once you land that big tuna get yourself the dual direction swing or sp discbine like cy said cut from one side also helps you know your moisture level in that what was cut first easier than roundy rounds. Enjoy your new machine you got a nice outfit there! Happy Hayin. Martin


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## JD3430

Thanks Martin. Great idea.


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## JD3430

mgilbert61 said:


> WOW !! I don't think there was anything left uncovered here. So JD3430....I spent probably 3+mths looking into moco's. Been running NH 1411. Just bought NH H7230 draw bar swivel w/ shoe extensions. I have too many small fields to get in and out for 13'. Got it for really good $ out of WI. Local guys couldn't even come close.
> Mlappin - great tips on bolting down the hitch. Am I correct there is a plate or something? Get it from NH?


Did you get the optional truck hitch? I heard it was like $200 and allows you to hitch the swivel type hitch to back of truck.
What are shoe extensions?


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## Colby

Show extensions are the same thing as a high stubble kit


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## FarmerCline

Congrats on the new purchase I hope it works out well for you. Let us know how you like it. You might want to consider the high stubble kit, it changes the cutting hight from about an inch to 3.5 inches with the regular shoes to about 3.5 to 5.5 inches. I personally do not like to cut very low because it seems like it is easier dry the hay when it is higher off the ground and the grass grows back better also. I am thinking about buying the same machine you did next year. I was going to this year but it looks like I need a baler with net wrap and I don't have the money for both.


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## mlappin

swmnhay said:


> _Just a comment on 13-15' swing tongues in small odd shaped fields comapared to a 10' that tongue is on side._
> 
> _You steer the swing tongues in tight areas and they will actually work better then a smaller cutter in small and odd shaped fields.A triangle shaped field you can cut from 1 side with swing tongue what are you going to do with a side tongue._
> 
> _A dealer telling you different has never ran both._


Have to agree, I can get further into corners with my 13' center pivot than I could with my 12' side pull.


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## mlappin

mgilbert61 said:


> Mlappin - great tips on bolting down the hitch. Am I correct there is a plate or something? Get it from NH?


Nope, something I made. I'll try to remember to snap a picture of it.


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