# Out in field BR7060 won't extend/retract



## JD3430 (Jan 1, 2012)

Actuator reads fine. Door closes fine
Makes a full bale, but won't wrap. I get error code before wrap cycle starts.
When I push it over to manual it won't wrap either
Actuator seems stuck open
Push button and I get motor sound, but no workie
Any ideas?


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## Gearclash (Nov 25, 2010)

Had an actuator stick on me last week. Just rocked it back and forth using the Extend/Retract buttons and it loosened up. Open the front of the baler and shut the tractor off so you can hear and see what is going on. I had never had this happen to me before.


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## rjmoses (Apr 4, 2010)

If you have both net wrap/twine, there will be two actuators on the right side. One actuates net wrap, the other actuates twine. Make sure that they are relatively clean, especially if you're doing alfalfa.

When my 780A starts acting up and failing to wrap, the first thing I do is check the net wrap and make sure it is not hung up on the teeth. The second thing is knock the dust/chaff off the actuator.

BTW: The actuators on a 780A are interchangeable, if you rotate the mechanical connection 90 degrees. (Did this once when I thought the net wrap actuator had gone bad; it wasn't bad.)

Hope this helps. And let us know what you find.

Ralph


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## JD3430 (Jan 1, 2012)

When I hit retract I can hear motor running
When I hit extend, nothing


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## Gearclash (Nov 25, 2010)

Try using using the override switch in the harness below the monitor. If that doesn't change anything then look for a bad connection serving the actuator.


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## mike10 (May 29, 2011)

First look at the screen of the operators panel to see that the little arrows are pointing to net and auto. It happens quite often where someone accidently hits the net/twine button.

Never switch from auto to manual unless you do not want the bale to wrap at the designeted bale size. Ext and Ret work in the auto mode and you will not accidently forget it is manual.

Now, if the actuator is extended and will not come back to the home position, then swing out the twine box and look at the duckbill where the the actuator rod is attached. Once you find this point then look forward about 4" and down and you should see a 12mm bolt through an angle with a nut on each side of the angle. Hold the bolt head and loosend the bottom nut. Do not turn the bolt or the top nut. Loosen the bottom nut until the bolt is loose. Now you can you to the operators panel and use the RET key to bring the duckbill home. After the duck bill is home them tighten the bottom nut back up to the angle. If you move the top nut you will mess up the calibration. If it contiues ot stick in auto mode then you will probably need to recalibrate the net acuator. Using the EXT key can stick the duckbill because you are forcing it past the stop position provided by the bolt.

If the actuator is not extended then let us know how much of the silver rod is exposed.


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## mike10 (May 29, 2011)

mike10 said:


> First look at the screen of the operators panel to see that the little arrows are pointing to net and auto. It happens quite often where someone accidentally hits the net/twine button.
> 
> Never switch from auto to manual unless you do not want the bale to wrap at the designated bale size. Ext and Ret work in the auto mode and you will not accidentally forget it is manual.
> 
> ...


Just a few clarifications;

When I said never use the manual mode, I probably should have said it is unnecessary to do so, but the reason is still valid.

If the panel shows ERROR the EXT and RET buittons may not work. Press the CLEAR button to get rid of the error message and then the buttons will work.


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## rjmoses (Apr 4, 2010)

mike10 said:


> Just a few clarifications;
> 
> When I said never use the manual mode, I probably should have said it is unnecessary to do so, but the reason is still valid.
> 
> If the panel shows ERROR the EXT and RET buittons may not work. Press the CLEAR button to get rid of the error message and then the buttons will work.


Good point. I just figured everyone knew about the Clear button.

One thing I've noticed is that sometimes I have to hit Clear/Retract/Wrap several times to clear the error. Usually this happens when the actuator is getting loaded up with chaff. Occasionally, I will have to hit the Extend then Retract to get it to fully retract. About the third time this happens in a row, I get out and clean things off.

Ralph


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## JD3430 (Jan 1, 2012)

Is this the angle piece and the nut?


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## Gearclash (Nov 25, 2010)

My picture is sideways, but mentally put the left side up, the stop mike10 is referring to is on the duckbill frame just above the spring that is in the picture. That stop hits the member in your picture that has the warning label on it. If the duckbill stop hits too hard the actuator can't retract. You will get an error message and the bale will not stop wrapping unless you switch off the PTO.

If you say it isn't wrapping I don't think this is your problem though.


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## JD3430 (Jan 1, 2012)

I don't think it's the right one
It's attached to brake and its 14mm


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## JD3430 (Jan 1, 2012)

When you hit retract, motor buzzes
When you hit extend-no sound
That's for both motors, net and twine


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## JD3430 (Jan 1, 2012)

Works with bypass cord and manual switch


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## mike10 (May 29, 2011)

If you operated the baler with low voltage you could have burned out a relay in the controller. See if your dealer has a spare you can use or at least try to see if that is where the problem is. From your latest post that is where I would start looking. You can have the controller checked and repaired at AG-Express. When you get the controller back be sure to have the dealer update the software. The latest software protects the controller better from low voltage. You can get into the diagnostics to check what version you have. Can't remember what menu item number it is, should be around menu item 20. When you get to the correct item there will be a "C" and a number. The latest version is 8.

I believe you are going direct to the battery with the power harness but for those who go through the tractor wiring low voltage is a great possibility.

Also if you have some serious binding back in the net mechanism, you will drop voltage.


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## r82230 (Mar 1, 2016)

Mike10, is right on, I had this problem sometimes, until I direct wired to the battery as recommended (the stubborn fool my wife married and his 'short cuts').


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## JD3430 (Jan 1, 2012)

Thanks for all your help and suggestions.

My baler is direct wired to the battery.

We performed about 2 hours of testing.

Extend still wouldn't work. Tech and I both think its the black box. He is bringing a reman box tomorrow. However, I'm not in love with this idea.

*1. I will lose all my stored info, # bales, etc.*

*2. I don't know if they are really costly. *

*3. Now that I've read Mike 10's last post, I wonder about calibration. Will it "talk" to my baler and will it perform correctly? *

BTW:

I hooked up the "over ride" cord and operated the baler manually, making about 50 bales with little trouble. However, I don't know how many wraps the baler is applying to my bales. I could be wasting a heck of a lot of Tama net.


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## mike10 (May 29, 2011)

#1 There is a way to change the bale count on the controller, so that should not be an issue. It is not publicized but it can be done. i have done it when changing controllers. Now if I can only remember where I put the instructions. You can even put in how many were twine wrapped and how many were net wrapped.

#3 There will be no issue with any calibration or performance. The controller will probably come without software so the dealer will have to download the latest version. This should give you protection against this happening again. The new controller will read the potentiometers and switches just like the original one. The items which will need calibrating are, left and right bale shape, duckbill home positon, duckbill insert position and duckbill precut position, twine home position, twine insert positon and twine precut position. If it were not for removing the left bale shape cover all the calibrations can be done in less then 5 min. You will also need to check that the bale size coming out of the baler is the same as what you are trying to make, if not you will need to do that calibration also. When you first turn the operators panel on the model number displayed will probably not be right but easily changed.


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## JD3430 (Jan 1, 2012)

A bit of an update. I was mistaken, they are bringing me a used controller as a process of elimination. If it works, they will sell it to me.
Then I guess I could have my controller fixed and pay them for "rent" use of the used box and all the running around.
Gonna be a big bill.


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## PaMike (Dec 7, 2013)

Do you have to hook up some wiring on the baler to use the manual extend/retract button that is in the harness? I gotta remember all this in case I am ever in the same boat...


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## rjmoses (Apr 4, 2010)

Just a couple of BTW's (these happened on other equipment but not my baler, but I'm suspicious):

1) Did you check the connector at the tractor? I've had a pin push back just a touch so that it looked OK, but wasn't seating.

2) Did you open up the tractor connector? I've had wires break inside the connector.

I'm betting it is not the controller. Odds are it is more likely a wiring problem.

Got my curiosity up!

Ralph


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## JD3430 (Jan 1, 2012)

Will check pins today. Baler is too new to be having this problem. 
(3 yr old 2500 bales)


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## rjmoses (Apr 4, 2010)

JD3430 said:


> Will check pins today. Baler is too new to be having this problem.
> (3 yr old 2500 bales)


I've have cold solder joints in connectors. This happens when a connector wiring is soldered manually and tje person didn't get the joint hot enough to allow the solder to flow properly.

I've also had crimp-on pins fail where the insulation was not stripped back quite far enough. When the pin moved around, it would make/break connection. Bi*** to find!

I worked on one project where I had 4 devices from AT&T with 8 cables from IBM. 6 of the 8 cables had cold/broken solder joints at the connectors and 2 of the 4 devices where bad coming from the factory. Of course IBM pointed to AT&T and AT&T pointed to IBM. I had to take everything apart to figure out a known good working combination, then show both organizations their problems. I did get their attention!

Ralph


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## mike10 (May 29, 2011)

The wiring is always a possibility. When I have to go and check a baler where the actuator will not work in one direction and no noise is coming from the actuator I take a controller, operators panel and tractor harness. It take no time to plug the baler harness into the controller or plug the baler harness into other operators panel and harness. If that all fails to correct the issue then the possible problem locations has been narrowed down to just the baler harness or actuator. I will say the harnesses on the BR balers have casued me zero issues but there is always that chance. Considering the large number of BR balers in our area, true electrical problems have been very minimal.


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## mlappin (Jun 25, 2009)

Somehow I've become the BR series goto guy in the area, mainly because I work for an adult cold beverage and can be there hours or days before a dealer guy is.

Can say I've never encountered this. My cousin did buy a very nice used 7060, worked perfect for the first 20 bales then the net actuator started acting up, could place a wrench in a proper spot and help it get going then it worked fine, decided that whatever passed for an over running clutch was shot, twine and net actuators do interchange but the sensor brackets do not. Switched actuators over in the field and its worked fine ever since, did the recalibrate on the actuator later in the day when he was done.


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## JD3430 (Jan 1, 2012)

Update:
Dealer gave me a controller from a burnt 7060 (Only had 2800 bales on it and the back end caught fire...hmmm THATS scary).
Put the box in and it worked....well sorta....The actuator works, but now the net won't grab the bale about every 5th bale. So now I have to get out and re-thread the duckbill. It's also making "Afro bales" where one edge of the bale is fuzzy. 
I think this is a coincidental problem with net wrap. I have been having success with Tama. I get the super big 12,500yd rolls. Beginning to wonder if I should scale back to the 9,600yd rolls???
Are the big rolls problematic?

Oh, and then my harvest tec quit as the baler tech left. Screen would only say "checking for updates". Had to screw around with that on the phone with HT for 15 minutes.

Before all this fun and frolic with my baler, early this morning I was cutting hay at an old abandoned farm and I caught a middle aged woman with frizzy orange hair, a demonic look in her eyes, dressed in tactical pants, tac boots and a t shirt wrapping toilet paper around the old driveway gates talking to herself. She asked me if I had seen her wallet and cell phone......Mentally disturbed of course..... Then some guy drives up to me while I'm greasing the mower and says to me "have you seen a woman with orange hair- she's mentally disturbed, she's my ex wife and I can't find her?" 
I pointed down at the abandoned house. He went down and scooped her up. Then the cops came...

What a day.....


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## Trotwood2955 (Sep 4, 2012)

I haven't had any problems with the big rolls. That's all I've run in my 7060 and never had issues (just on my second season with it).


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## rjmoses (Apr 4, 2010)

Glad to see you got it working!

Ralph


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## JD3430 (Jan 1, 2012)

I guess so. Now comes the repair bill..


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## PaMike (Dec 7, 2013)

Cant believe your box went out. Mine is an '08 with 22K on it, and it still works...


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## Tx Jim (Jun 30, 2014)

JD3430 said:


> I think this is a coincidental problem with net wrap. I have been having success with Tama. I get the super big 12,500yd rolls. Beginning to wonder if I should scale back to the 9,600yd rolls???
> Are the big rolls problematic?


I use the large rolls(13,200') of Tama netwrap in my green baler with no problems other than the rolls are heavy


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## mlappin (Jun 25, 2009)

Tx Jim said:


> I use the large rolls(13,200') of Tama netwrap in my green baler with no problems other than the rolls are heavy


Yah, not that I need them yet, but smaller rolls would be nice someday.


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## PaMike (Dec 7, 2013)

Those rolls are heavy. I hate changing them


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## JD3430 (Jan 1, 2012)

I didn't think they were that heavy???
Made another 100 bales today.
No real problems. 
I think I need to tighten the bolts on the duckbill, but now I don't want to touch it if it's working
Re PA Mike: yes, I'm really pissed off about the controller box. I've pampered this thing and it's never seen any rain.


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## Gearclash (Nov 25, 2010)

I've got a baler that must have had the micro processor replaced. Bale count and appearance don't jive.


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## JD3430 (Jan 1, 2012)

Gearclash said:


> I've got a baler that must have had the micro processor replaced. Bale count and appearance don't jive.


I think mike10 said you could change the bale count.


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