# Phosphorus(P) and Potassium(K)



## big_country (Aug 29, 2011)

Bermuda grass hay fields.How long will it take for P and K to get in the ground so that the plant is able to use it. Some people around my area put a O grade fertilizer 0-15-40 fertilizer in the fall and others put a O grade fertilizer in the spring. There are some people that will put the P and K out with their nitrogen or urea. Which would be better and why would be better. Thanks for the information


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## Vol (Jul 5, 2009)

If I am significantly low in either, then I like to apply it immediately. If I am trying to shelve(build-up) P&K, I like to apply in the fall so that it has a chance to work deeper with the winter rains and very little grass/plant uptake at that time. If I am going to do tillage, I like to apply right before working the soil so as to incorporate deeper....being beneficial for deeper rooted plants.

There are other good methods and reasons.

Regards, Mike


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## glasswrongsize (Sep 15, 2015)

It's just my understanding and I have nothing on-hand to back it up, but I believe that the P in DAP (18-46-0) is a "faster acting" P than is found in Super Triple (0-45-0) and the white potash (0-0-62) is faster acting than the red potash (0-0-60). When trying to build ground and tilling-in, I use the slower acting and when trying for more immediate results, I use the faster acting. Not really an answer to your question, but kinda on track and food for thought.

73, Mark


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## somedevildawg (Jun 20, 2011)

big_country said:


> Bermuda grass hay fields.How long will it take for P and K to get in the ground so that the plant is able to use it. Some people around my area put a O grade fertilizer 0-15-40 fertilizer in the fall and others put a O grade fertilizer in the spring. There are some people that will put the P and K out with their nitrogen or urea. Which would be better and why would be better. Thanks for the information


As with many things, it comes down to my pocketbook 
In the fall I ain't got any "working capital" left to my name, so.....spring it is! 
Not very scientific, but then again, not much about my operation is...


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## vhaby (Dec 30, 2009)

In my neck of he woods, 0-46-0 is very difficult to get. DAP (18-46-0) usually is the only source of phosphorus available.

For our hay meadow, the N-P-K gets applied together in early spring once the bermudagrass initiates regrowth. Additional N and K is applied for each regrowth of bermudagrass that I need to cut for hay, and additional N gets applied several weeks after seeded rye has emerged in fall.

For our grazing pasture, the N-P-K gets applied several weeks after fall seeded rye has emerged. Also apply 1.0 lb of boron at this time because ball clover is seeded and volunteers in this pasture. The clover grazed by cattle provides additional nitrogen for the pasture grasses during late winter, spring and early summer.

One thing to consider when applying P and K without N, and later applying the N is the cost of spreading unless you spread it yourself. Here, cost of spreading is $6 per acre with a minimum spreading fee of $240. If I don't spread the N-P-K together, I pay this spreading cost twice.


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## Lewis Ranch (Jul 15, 2013)

somedevildawg said:


> As with many things, it comes down to my pocketbook
> In the fall I ain't got any "working capital" left to my name, so.....spring it is!
> Not very scientific, but then again, not much about my operation is...


Glad to know I'm not the only one who operates on that principle!


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## Vol (Jul 5, 2009)

somedevildawg said:


> As with many things, it comes down to my pocketbook
> In the fall I ain't got any "working capital" left to my name, so.....spring it is!
> Not very scientific, but then again, not much about my operation is...


Probably more like you out there dawg than folks will admit.....I think the vast majority of us have operated on the pocketbook principal more than once....or twice.

Regards, Mike


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