# Best tractor to pull NH 10 foot discbine? Under 20 grand.



## TORCH (Jan 7, 2012)

Using 80 horse 1080 MF now. Needs more power to get the full potential out of discbine. Wondered about White 2-125 or IH hydro. Evey dealer I asked so far is like looking at deer in headlights.


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## 8350HiTech (Jul 26, 2013)

Is this going to be a dedicated mower tractor or will it get used for other tasks? Do you want to spend 19,500 or 9,500?

The White sounds like a good choice. But if the goal is price, I think I'd just start searching and see what I could find below-market regardless of color. Just for fun, I'll throw in one model: IH 986


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## Farmerbrown2 (Sep 25, 2018)

My only advice is don't go to big on HP. Bigger isn't always better you can over torque a discbine. Friends of mine bought used late model discbine run by a oversized tractor and have had nothing but trouble . What they have spent on the cutter bar and driveline could of easily bought a new one.


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## TORCH (Jan 7, 2012)

The smallest tractor that can be used is 80 horse power. On the NH 10 foot discbine. I am living proof that it is under powered. Don't think 110 HP would be over kill. To answers question yes for the most part dedicated to discbine. Your idea of IH 986 sounds like a good option. Not sure about parts and cost for parts on White tractors. Are the IH hydro tractor something to stay away from? For this applacation? Or just stich to gears trans? Thanks


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## somedevildawg (Jun 20, 2011)

Welcome to haytalk torch, it will help if you put your location in your profile....
Once again welcome to haytalk.....


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## PaMike (Dec 7, 2013)

Anymore its hard to find a good big frame IH hydro in decent shape for under 20K.

The white could be a good choice depending on your dealer support. You might be able to find a case maxxum for under 20k. Something like a 5130. They have a 4 speed powershift.


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## sethd11 (Jan 1, 2012)

I'd recomend a 86 series international. pretty good cabs and really nice ones to be had for just under 20k. simple to work on also. 986 or 1086 if you want a turbo. my .003 cents


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## R Ball (Feb 26, 2013)

I run my Nh7230 with a t5050 and mow 7mph. Only time it ever drags it down a little is first cut. I think that tractor is 82 hp at the pto.. If


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## Bob M (Feb 11, 2012)

I can run our 13 footers with 2290 case or JD 4430, both could be bought for less than $20,000, Very nice ones less than $20,000.


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## barnrope (Mar 22, 2010)

farmerbrown said:


> My only advice is don't go to big on HP. Bigger isn't always better you can over torque a discbine. Friends of mine bought used late model discbine run by a oversized tractor and have had nothing but trouble . What they have spent on the cutter bar and driveline could of easily bought a new one.


I run a 190 HP tractor regularly on a 13 foot mower conditioner and have never seen any problems. In general too much power is way better than not enough.

There are many nice tractors with good cabs available from the mid 70's thru the early 80's for under $20,000 in the 90 to 140 HP range.


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## FarmerCline (Oct 12, 2011)

I would also say an 86 series IH might be a good choice. They have a nice cab with good ac and real good engines. The only thing is some people don't like the gear shifter to be on the left hand side.....unless you were using it for a loader tractor or something you were going to be changing gears a lot I don't think it is an issue. I have a 986 and really like it.....I just wouldn't want it for a loader tractor. Another good choice would be a 30 series JD but you could probably find a nicer lower houred IH for about the same money.


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## Josh in WNY (Sep 7, 2010)

I have run our 9 foot mower on our Ford 5000 (65HP ?), IH 784 (70HP) and our JD 4020. Only the 4020 plays with it, the others have to work. In the JD line, I would think a 4020 or 4230 would be good choices, but the 40 series Deeres may be getting to expensive. The IHs that have already been mentioned would be good as well. I have no experience with White tractors, so I won't be much help there.

Also, if you get a little more HP now, you may have what you need if you ever switch up to a bigger mower in the future. That would save you having to get a newer tractor for your newer mower. Just some food for thought.


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## mlappin (Jun 25, 2009)

Running a White 2-110 on a 1435 NH discbine no problems 99% of the time. If you get some really down hay you might have to downshift.

Check with Tractordata to see which one had what engine, I'd personally stay away from the White 2-135, its a good reliable tractor and an absolute beast but the Hercules engine in em just drank the fuel while either at a dead idle or full load. Of course it wasn't unusual to see a Hercules cranking out an extra 70 or 80 hp on a dyno.

The Perkins 354.4 engine can be turned up to at least 140hp safely.

The cummins 5.9 in the series following the sky is the limit on those, our Massey ferguson 8560 combine had a 5.9 set at 210hp. I'm getting better than 450hp out of the 24 valve 5.9 in my pickup.

Parts are still available for the Whites, if you don't have a dealer nearby check with Plevna Implement in Kokomo, absolute great people to deal with. If used parts are fine then go with Maibach Tractor in Ohio.

Parts like hydraulic pumps for the Whites can be had from Burdens Surplus Center sometimes. Just a pretty common Vickers variable displacement piston pump, simple to work on and rebuild.

Lastly, if you go with the White, when using it for stationary power or when it's just sitting and idling, place it in "Under" on the power shift, the Oliver/*********** shifts use two clutch packs, one for "Direct" and the other for "Over". "Under" is engaged when neither clutch pack is engaged and a sprague clutch locks up to engage under drive. So if sitting and the power shift is placed in anything put "Under" you're wearing the sprague and shaft for no reason. They also shift much easier in Under.


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## Bgriffin856 (Nov 13, 2013)

Use a fine tooth comb when buying anything of the vintages mentioned. 
On the IH 1086 or larger there is a possibility they have been cranked up and putting out 150+HP

We haven't upgraded much past the mid 70's so it's the 56&66 series here lol which for 20k you could buy two and always have one to use while fixing the other when it breaks down 

The JD power quad is a godsend and will make you feel like your in heaven. Love our 7405 :wub:


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## TORCH (Jan 7, 2012)

mlappin said:


> Running a White 2-110 on a 1435 NH discbine no problems 99% of the time. If you get some really down hay you might have to downshift.
> 
> Check with Tractordata to see which one had what engine, I'd personally stay away from the White 2-135, its a good reliable tractor and an absolute beast but the Hercules engine in em just drank the fuel while either at a dead idle or full load. Of course it wasn't unusual to see a Hercules cranking out an extra 70 or 80 hp on a dyno.
> 
> ...


Thank you for your response first off. Have been researching on tractordata.com.

Took a closer look at the 2-110 that you have. Also white 120 and the 125. The trans looks to be the same in all 3 we are talking about. With just a small gear speed difference in the 2-110. The weight is around 2500 lbs more in the 120 and 125. Gee if you can turn up the 2-110 as you stated. Than it seems it would be a better choice to go with the 2-110. Because of the power to weight ratio.

Can you please tell me more about how your transmission shifts? If your in 2 over and want to shift to 5 under. What do you have to do? Another question do you have to stop tractor to shift from any gear range from 1st too 6th? I'm guessing shifting to under or over can be done on the move in one gear range.

That was a huge tip to keep tractor in under when at idling.


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## G&GFarms (Dec 31, 2014)

my 806 would work great http://www.haytalk.com/forums/topic/24382-fs-farmall-806-diesel-wf/


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## TORCH (Jan 7, 2012)

I think IH 1066 or a 1086 would be perfect tractors. The big downfall is the trans shifts. I'm looking for some trans that is more of shifting on the move. Found that the J I Case 2090 is a 12 speed with 3 power shifts pergear. The bottom line in is looking for tractor with more of shift on the move type. No wounder I have not much hair left. Thank 4 all the help so far.


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## TORCH (Jan 7, 2012)

G&GFarms said:


> my 806 would work great http://www.haytalk.com/forums/topic/24382-fs-farmall-806-diesel-wf/


I did look at your tractor very nice. Also live in Wisconsin. Looking 4 more horse power. Thanks 4 letting me know.


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## 8350HiTech (Jul 26, 2013)

2090 (or 2290 or 2096 or 1896) would work well. People are scared of the possible bill for a powershift rebuild, but it really wouldn't cost much more than a TA replacement as long as you weren't paying too much hourly for labor. They do shift a little clumsy but it's still a shift. You'd get the same functionality out of a White with a three speed if that's more your style.

To clarify the 12 speed in the Case: you have to come to a dead stop to change gears. The three speed is nice but you can't shift from 2nd gear to 3rd gear while in motion. Only your three speed powershift can be changed on the fly.


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## G&GFarms (Dec 31, 2014)

8350HiTech said:


> 2090 (or 2290 or 2096 or 1896) would work well. People are scared of the possible bill for a powershift rebuild, but it really wouldn't cost much more than a TA replacement as long as you weren't paying too much hourly for labor. They do shift a little clumsy but it's still a shift. You'd get the same functionality out of a White with a three speed if that's more your style.
> 
> To clarify the 12 speed in the Case: you have to come to a dead stop to change gears. The three speed is nice but you can't shift from 2nd gear to 3rd gear while in motion. Only your three speed powershift can be changed on the fly.





TORCH said:


> I think IH 1066 or a 1086 would be perfect tractors. The big downfall is the trans shifts. I'm looking for some trans that is more of shifting on the move. Found that the J I Case 2090 is a 12 speed with 3 power shifts pergear. The bottom line in is looking for tractor with more of shift on the move type. No wounder I have not much hair left. Thank 4 all the help so far.


Guys i tell you. We bought a 2096 a couple years back to replace a 986 with 8100 hours. We had bought it for our friends thinking it wouldnt be a bad tractor because of the red paint. WE WERE SO WRONG! it was the worst tractor weve ever owned and we ended up putting close to 15k$ in it before it could even be hooked to the baler. Coming from my expreiences, Id say STAY AWAY! Plus, my boss has a 2090 and the powershift just went out while he was running the bale grinder due the the "cant be in reverse while using pto" Id suggest getting by with a 1066 or 1086 for now. But, if you found a 4230 or 4240 jd powershift, (even tho im a die hard red fan) would be a better choice inplace of the 90, 94, and 96 series cases. Sorry if im stepping on anyones toes


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## 8350HiTech (Jul 26, 2013)

G&GFarms said:


> Guys i tell you. We bought a 2096 a couple years back to replace a 986 with 8100 hours. We had bought it for our friends thinking it wouldnt be a bad tractor because of the red paint. WE WERE SO WRONG! it was the worst tractor weve ever owned and we ended up putting close to 15k$ in it before it could even be hooked to the baler. Coming from my expreiences, Id say STAY AWAY! Plus, my boss has a 2090 and the powershift just went out while he was running the bale grinder due the the "cant be in reverse while using pto" Id suggest getting by with a 1066 or 1086 for now. But, if you found a 4230 or 4240 jd powershift, (even tho im a die hard red fan) would be a better choice inplace of the 90, 94, and 96 series cases. Sorry if im stepping on anyones toes


Here's a few tips. 
•Don't do stationary pto work with it in reverse. There's a reason that there is a decal on the dash telling you not to. 
•it's Case engineering through and through. Paint color shouldn't be that confusing.
•know what to look/feel for when test driving. It's hard to spend $15k on something without there having been signs something was wrong before you bought it.


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## G&GFarms (Dec 31, 2014)

8350HiTech said:


> Here's a few tips.
> •Don't do stationary pto work with it in reverse. There's a reason that there is a decal on the dash telling you not to.
> •it's Case engineering through and through. Paint color shouldn't be that confusing.
> •know what to look/feel for when test driving. It's hard to spend $15k on something without there having been signs something was wrong before you bought it.


1, we bought it for a friend when they didnt have the cash on them and thats what he picked.

2, My boss is always in a hurry.

3, We suggested buying a tw5 on the same lot as the 2096.

4, that series is junk to me.


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## G&GFarms (Dec 31, 2014)

i dont want to get into a pissing match here. I know its case and red is my favorite. But im just suggesting through experience that weve had nothing but problems with them. It sucks for baling hay when u shove in the clutch and it automatically goes into 1st gear. Theres a problem there. Plus you should be able to run the pto in any gear like almost every other GOOD tractor.


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## TORCH (Jan 7, 2012)

Sounds like someting to stay away from. If it does not have a good past history than I'm going to look closer at the white again. When using my MF 1080 for mower work. Can't stand the gear box. Want to speed up and slow down have to stop tractor to shift bach down in low gear. I got it down to shift from low to high without grinding gears. But going back to low got to stop or slow roll. That why looking for better shifting on next tractor.


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## G&GFarms (Dec 31, 2014)

oh prefect reason. yeah the white is a far better choice.


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## discbinedr (Mar 4, 2013)

JD 30 or 40 series would be my pick. Say a 4430 or 4240. They have good reputations, good resale value , are green, are available with powershift and can be had for under 20k. Whats not to like??? Does any body on here have anything bad to say about them. Besides the fact that there green? These other colors always seem to have something or other about them you have to watch. Cant run the pto in reverse?!?! For cryin' out loud...... :-[


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## 8350HiTech (Jul 26, 2013)

discbinedr said:


> JD 30 or 40 series would be my pick. Say a 4430 or 4240. They have good reputations, good resale value , are green, are available with powershift and can be had for under 20k. Whats not to like??? Does any body on here have anything bad to say about them. Besides the fact that there green? These other colors always seem to have something or other about them you have to watch. Cant run the pto in reverse?!?! For cryin' out loud...... :-[


Is "you'll pay twice as much" considered something bad to say?


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## G&GFarms (Dec 31, 2014)

totally agree. Id rather pay 9500$ for a 1066 with duals and a cab with 5400 hours then pay 18K$ for a stupid 4430 with 10,000 hours.


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## discbinedr (Mar 4, 2013)

You get what you pay for.


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## somedevildawg (Jun 20, 2011)

It's funny to hear people talk about tractors and being color blind, it's almost like racism....goes both ways. If ya want a real tractor get the 4430-4450 Deere for what your looking for, under 20k they are hard to beat if they've been taken care of.....but heck, ya get what ya pay for and sometimes ya don't pay for what ya get.....lot of thought in that to consider.


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## deadmoose (Oct 30, 2011)

somedevildawg said:


> It's funny to hear people talk about tractors and being color blind, it's almost like racism....goes both ways. If ya want a real tractor get the 4430-4450 Deere for what your looking for, under 20k they are hard to beat if they've been taken care of.....but heck, ya get what ya pay for and sometimes ya don't pay for what ya get.....lot of thought in that to consider.


All true. If you look around enough you may find a nice deal on an older MF, White 2-110 or similar as mentioned, AC, IH 3088 5088, or 86 series. I am sure I am leaving some out. The Deere's may or may not be the best buy. Yes resale may be higher but in the meantime I bet many other colors will treat you well.

Until the best one is in front of you-it isn't the best. You are talking about a tractor most likely 20-40 years old. The condition of said tractor combined with price are what is going to make it the best. Keep an open mind and look for the best one that fits your criteria.

If you get tunnel vision on a particular model you just might miss the best one as it passes you by. $0.02


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## OhioHay (Jun 4, 2008)

I like the 30 and 40 series deere's for hay making. One of the main reasons is they are very maneuverable. We have a 4030, 4230, 4440, and 4640. All used for hay making. I also own a case 2290. It is clumsy to drive compared to the deere's. Also where the hitch connects is really low and tends to drag hay.I don't use the 2290 for making hay anymore. Probably should sell it.


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## deadmoose (Oct 30, 2011)

Also look at tractordata to see fuel consumption. Say you save 5k on a tractor you plan to use for 2k hours. If it burns an extra gallon per hour all of a sudden you pay MUCH more in the long run.


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## FarmerCline (Oct 12, 2011)

If a transmission than has some type of shift on the go is a must I would look hard at a 30 or 40 series JD. I don't have any experience with the quad range but have heard good things about them and I personally really like the 8sp powershift. Something like a 4230 or 4240 would probably suit your needs.


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## discbinedr (Mar 4, 2013)

A good JD 30 series can be had for significantly less than the 18k snorted about above through HERE.


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## mlappin (Jun 25, 2009)

TORCH said:


> Thank you for your response first off. Have been researching on tractordata.com.
> 
> Took a closer look at the 2-110 that you have. Also white 120 and the 125. The trans looks to be the same in all 3 we are talking about. With just a small gear speed difference in the 2-110. The weight is around 2500 lbs more in the 120 and 125. Gee if you can turn up the 2-110 as you stated. Than it seems it would be a better choice to go with the 2-110. Because of the power to weight ratio.
> 
> ...


Depends on the tractor and the operator, my hay mowing tractor shifts pretty easy while still in motion, it's twin that's on the round baler I have to stop to shift gears, tranny's just to tight yet to shift on the fly. The power shift of course can be used all the time, one word of advice though, I either push the clutch in or idle back before upshifting on the road, nothing to take the shock out of the powershift when on hard surfaces. I just tell the help to come to a complete stop though when shifting gears, easier on the transmission that way.

Transmissions are pretty simple and very reliable, I've only ever had two clear apart. One is in a 2255 that I'm still collecting parts to put back together, the chroming came off the pinion shaft and locked a gear set to it, the other was in our smaller White 4-175 articulated, that was due to a loose pinion bearing. Was a design flaw on that one, later models like the 4-210 and up addressed this issue with MUCH larger pinion bearings.

Really simple transmission design though, it's actually a three speed with a single reverse, think like a standard three speed manual, when you move the shift lever from one H pattern to the other it moves a shifting collar from low to high range or vice versa on the input shaft. Oliver used this same design for decades with great success. I'll post a picture so the dual H pattern is made clear. On many of the later ones like our 4-210's you also have a Park build into the transmission instead of a manual parking brake. Best thing about the built in Park is it's impossible for the help to be driving around with the parking brake engaged, bad thing is it may move slightly in either direction before the brake engages which can make hooking something up alone a bit challenging.










From looking at the picture, 4 and 6 uses the same gear in the transmission but my moving your shifter from one H pattern to the other it automatically selects either high or low range on the input shaft, on this particular tractor 2nd and 5th are the same gear, 1st and 3rd are the same gear, but use a different range on the input shaft.


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## G&GFarms (Dec 31, 2014)

i think theres alot of good tractors for the money. Id prefer green for stuff like round baling or cutting if you cant afford a new tractor to do either with. The cabs seem very quiet. But, also you pay the price. For high houred tractors you can pay alot. And its almost impossible to find a low houred jd for 40-55 series for under 40k. Im NOT color blind i just know how to spend money, save it, and re make it on equipment as that is my dads profession. and maybe i was a little high on the 4430 price of 18k but i garrentee you there is one on tractor house for 15k+ with 9000+ hours and nothing said done to it.


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## discbinedr (Mar 4, 2013)

Tractorhouse is always high. Find a local farmer that's motivated to sell.


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## somedevildawg (Jun 20, 2011)

discbinedr said:


> Tractorhouse is always high. Find a local farmer that's motivated to sell.


I agree....I try to seek out the farmers that are retiring or changing operations and buy their equipment.....whatever you do, take your time and research what type of tractors will suit you, no matter the color, then figure how much the piece of equipment will be worth if you decide to change directions in a few years, that happens a lot.....but without a doubt I wouldn't buy one from an auction without being very diligent about previous owners and it's use. If its a Deere you can run the vin thru the local dealer and find out a lot of info.

Case in point....I bought a 7200 last year with 7800 hrs. 2 wheel drive. Cab was mint, glass was mint, tires were original, A/C blew Icey cold, transmission (power quad) had been rebuilt to the tune of 8k$ @ 7k hrs, 8 suitcase weights.......paid the man his asking price of 26k. Ran the vin thru JD and it verified that this tractor had 26gpm pump AND that this gentleman had the tractor delivered to his farm brand new and he had worked it for the past 20+ years on his farm growing peanuts and cotton. He retired and I bought his tractor, another feller bought his other tractor. Everything that needed fixin on the tractor got fixed.....at the JD dealer, all filters were OEM.....but, I looked for 6-8 months before I bought that one, found it on Craigslist and had to drive 170 (one way) miles to see it and another round trip to retrieve it.....I have more in it than I probably should, but I know that this man was being truthful in his presentation of the tractor and I verified that before purchasing......I was late to the party as he had it for sale for over a month, I'm sure everyone else wanted to "steal" the tractor.....one thing I've learned, you ain't gonna steal a Deere that's been well taken care of.....hth


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## TORCH (Jan 7, 2012)

Wow the excellent info I got from all of you guys. I would like to thank each one of you for your time and input! 
I look at tractor house all the time to see what is out there since tractor hunting stsrted. I even called dealer on MF 2705 to get info. I asked about the reliablity of the model tractor. Also asked about the 24 speed trans . The guy said he would get back to me with my questions when his computer was back working. You guessed it the dealer never called back. I personaly never have much luck with dealers calling back. I even had dealer come out to let me demo the NH 9 foot discbine. I called them back afte to nail down a price with my trade. They never called back. Bought brand new 10 foot from different dealer. That never made sence to me. One year later called them and found out they were still sitting onthat same 9 foot discbine. That is why I turned to this sit for info. Dealers I called to asked question don't know much pretty sad if you ask me. For now thanks very much. Can't wait to see all the excellent info yet to come.


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## IH 1586 (Oct 16, 2014)

deadmoose said:


> Also look at tractordata to see fuel consumption. Say you save 5k on a tractor you plan to use for 2k hours. If it burns an extra gallon per hour all of a sudden you pay MUCH more in the long run.


If you are overworking a smaller tractor and get a larger one doing the same work you may actually use the same or less fuel even though you're running a larger engine. Replaced the 4040 with a 1586 on the discs and ended up using the same amount of fuel in an hour plus was able to get more done. Going on the larger side might be more beneficial plus if you ever wanted to upgrade to larger implements you already have the hp.

Just want to note that with the bigger tractor I am not going faster.


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## Josh in WNY (Sep 7, 2010)

IH 1586 said:


> If you are overworking a smaller tractor and get a larger one doing the same work you may actually use the same or less fuel even though you're running a larger engine. Replaced the 4040 with a 1586 on the discs and ended up using the same amount of fuel in an hour plus was able to get more done. Going on the larger side might be more beneficial plus if you ever wanted to upgrade to larger implements you already have the hp.


Also, this might help with repair bills down the road.


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## TORCH (Jan 7, 2012)

With all the advice given so far lead me to look at the White. Looks like the trans will get me what I'm looking for. Shifting on the fly. Want to speed up making windrows when mowers not cutting.

Found a White 2-110 from a private seller. He is the second owner and had for the last 3 years. First owner used tractor to pull bailer. Was the type who had tractor for each piece of equipment. This guy used it for plowing, planting, chopping corn ect. He wants to upgrade to more horsepower.

Tractor has around 4500 hours. 1984 2 wheel drive. No engine oil leaks all filters been changed last winter. When he goes through all his equipment for spring. Needs oil change and said time to change rear end fluid. Belt on air missing when he bought so air don't work. Blower on heater not working radio works. Interior was getting bad so he ripped all of it out, including head liner. He said the interiors not making me money so never put back in. he tells me the tractor is field ready. Engine trans breaks radiator alt all working properly. Front tires are worn down pretty much. Rear tires at 60%.

Can get cab kit with head liner through tractorseats.com from dealer down block for $720.00. What it will take to fix air and heater is still unknown. I'm sure there are odds and end but it is 31 years old. Looking for farm tractor not a show tractor so maybe I will live with out interior for awhile. It has a cab and needs ear plugs to run? LOL LOL LOL Or turn up radio.


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## hay rake (Dec 31, 2011)

The only drawback with a white is under drive is free wheeling. if you have hilly ground and the gear you want is in under drive you spend a lot time riding the brake. the perkins engine is next best thing to bullet proof. good hydraulics and comfortable cab. the company has a cab kit for 426.00 make sure 3 speed is good they can be pricey to repair.they were good when built and still are


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## mlappin (Jun 25, 2009)

hay rake said:


> The only drawback with a white is under drive is free wheeling. if you have hilly ground and the gear you want is in under drive you spend a lot time riding the brake. the perkins engine is next best thing to bullet proof. good hydraulics and comfortable cab. the company has a cab kit for 426.00 make sure 3 speed is good they can be pricey to repair.they were good when built and still are


Can you let us in on who had a cab kit for $426? Or is it just the cab kit sans headliner?

I've never found the freewheeling under to be much of a drawback, makes it much easier to get out of gear. Our Massey 4880 doesn't have the freewheeling under and I've had to shut it off more than once to get out of gear.


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## somedevildawg (Jun 20, 2011)

TORCH said:


> With all the advice given so far lead me to look at the White. Looks like the trans will get me what I'm looking for. Shifting on the fly. Want to speed up making windrows when mowers not cutting.
> 
> Found a White 2-110 from a private seller. He is the second owner and had for the last 3 years. First owner used tractor to pull bailer. Was the type who had tractor for each piece of equipment. This guy used it for plowing, planting, chopping corn ect. He wants to upgrade to more horsepower.
> 
> ...


Depending on the price I believe I would pass on that one.....


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## deadmoose (Oct 30, 2011)

somedevildawg said:


> Depending on the price I believe I would pass on that one.....


Seems like the kind of guy who only fixes something if ABSOLUTELY necessary. Qs in 100% of useful life is gone. Uses abuses and dumps it if he can just prior to major malfunction. I agree with Dawg. Pass. Never know what else is in that can of worms.


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## 8350HiTech (Jul 26, 2013)

deadmoose said:


> Seems like the kind of guy who only fixes something if ABSOLUTELY necessary. Qs in 100% of useful life is gone. Uses abuses and dumps it if he can just prior to major malfunction. I agree with Dawg. Pass. Never know what else is in that can of worms.


Because there's no headliner and the air doesn't work? That seems overly speculative. The seller is right. Those things don't make any money. If you don't spend long hours in the tractor, they aren't necessary so I can easily see a seller who maintained important things choose not to spend over $1000 on frills.

Of course, if the price doesn't reflect condition then I'd agree skipping it is smart.


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## somedevildawg (Jun 20, 2011)

All dependent upon price......but I want to buy one that has been maintained completely, not a bunch of damn mysteries. Course if that price is inline, I can stand some mysteries.....all depends on ones ability to get the parts and job done.....


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## TORCH (Jan 7, 2012)

Asking price is $12500.00 he turned down $10500. So I would guess in between will sell. He did tell me he has got lot's of calls and he said the big turn off for the callers was the no interior. Found another 2-110 from dealer there asking $16500. The asking difference is $4000. Is the interior still the deal breaker? $720. Buys new interior with head liner. Air? Gee I don't even have air in my house. That most lively will be big bucks to fix. All your input is very imformative. Thanks

Lets see your thoughts on the price? Run or buy?

One more thing the bank will loan me up to $11000. On this tractor.


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## somedevildawg (Jun 20, 2011)

Pass....but your market is different than mine, I think you were $500 high on your offer.....but again, your market may demand higher prices, White was certainly more popular and in use there than here.....


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## 8350HiTech (Jul 26, 2013)

Is this it?

https://appleton.craigslist.org/grd/4826131675.html

Looks nicer than I was expecting. Not sure about prices in your market.


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## somedevildawg (Jun 20, 2011)

Looks nicer than I expected to....although I'm a bit skeptical when someone says "even the radio works". Right, but the A/C and heater are a different story.....I can buy a radio for $40, and while im at it....how about some pics of that no interior......why not? Always heard good things about em, hours seem good. Still a lil sketchy at the 12.5 however....

Really, no A/C in the house? I couldn't run that tractor any amount of time down here, well I could just have to keep the doors and rear window open at all times....it would be a must fix for me, but good horsepower for the $


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## FarmerCline (Oct 12, 2011)

I would want to get an idea about what it would cost to fix the A/C and heat before I would purchase. In your climate it's probably not as bad but down here it is hell to be in a cab without air in the summer.....I would much, much prefer to have an open station tractor than one with a cab but no air. I would plan on getting an interior kit as well.....I would think it would cut down the noise inside a good bit.....it's true that the interior kit and A/C might not make you money but at the end of a hard days work you will agree It was money well spent.


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## mlappin (Jun 25, 2009)

I've found AC to be big plus, less operator fatigue equals less operator error which saves money in the long run.

AC compressor will run you $300-400 if its shot, maybe another 100 bucks in an expansion valve and receiver dryer and yes, if I'm doing the work the receiver dryer and expansion valve get changed or I don't do the work.

If it was me I'd start out with a complete flush of the system, then start out with new oil and charge and see what happens.

I paid $10K at an auction for my first 2-110 that was in good shape but not pristine and $12.5K for one a second that had better paint and interior but a flaky AC.


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## mlappin (Jun 25, 2009)

Looked at the pics, not bad shape. First thing I'd do is cut about a foot off the stack on the muffler to avoid snagging any low limbs.

Get yourself a 0-5000 PSI pressure gauge, get a male quick coupler on it, plug the gauge into the hydraulic remotes, check each one. You should have around 2200lbs on each remote or a little better. See if the gauge holds pressure when you release the lever, if it drops could be something as simple as a cracked or scratched load poppet or as expensive as the bore and spool being scratched in that section of the valve stack.

If it doesn't hit 2200lbs take a large screwdriver and turn the compensator in on the hydraulic pump a quarter turn and see what happens, pressure should increase. If not could have a junk pump which will run about $700.


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## mlappin (Jun 25, 2009)

If you don't think either tractor will be sold out from under you, could always pull oil samples of the engine, transmission and hydraulics and have em analyzed.


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## TORCH (Jan 7, 2012)

Mlappin

Have perssure gage all set up to go.

Hyd pump replacement is thst s tractor split?


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## hay rake (Dec 31, 2011)

cab kit is at the company. (t)om (h)assenfritz (e)quipment company in mt pleasant iowa. good company we get all of our front end parts and cab kits along with other stuff there


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## hay rake (Dec 31, 2011)

Hyd pump is located on left side of tractor in front of axle housing. in the picture of the left side of the tractor you can just see the pump behinde the step/battery box. four bolts and i think three lines and it's in your hands. when you are looking for oliver/white parts try maibach tractor in oh. we are in maine and that's where our green and silver parts come from. they also have a heck of a grave yard if you are looking for used. if you have remote problems and you don't want to mess with them they have rebuilt's ready to go. they are also easy to change and add if you want a third remote. right rear of tractor in a stack held by four bolts. 4500 hrs really isn't bad for a mid eighties tractor. my 180 has around 8 and it's a 78. if i was not in love with power shift and after a good look i would be saying "but gee hun it followed me home, really. can i keep it, huh ". good luck


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## TORCH (Jan 7, 2012)

Hay rake:

The part your describing is the auxiliary hydraulic spool. At least in my MF 1080 and the hydrpartc pump Is inside tractor. Requires to split tractor.

That was my question is the pump inside tractor on the 2-110? If so would require splitting tractor? The part your discribing sound like spool not actual hyd pump.

Please fill me in. Thanks


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## hay rake (Dec 31, 2011)

The remote spools are in a horizontal stack at right rear of tractor. you can follow the rods from the levers down to them. when you look in from the back you are looking at the detent adjustment covers. in my oliver and white that is the hyd pump behind the step. on a fender tractor i use it as my last step before the platform. the only internal pump i know of is the 3 speed pump. that is in the 3 speed. never had a 110 apart but i have had a 1855 completely apart down to nuts and bolts. they are pretty much the same tractor other than tin and engine.


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## TORCH (Jan 7, 2012)

Thank you very much for verification. I am going tomorrow or as some may be reading today. To look at tractor. Will give follow up as to buy or pass.


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## TORCH (Jan 7, 2012)

I was lucky enough to have a farmer come with to look at tractor. Gretas girlfriend from works husband. Who I never met before offered to come with. Thank God for good people still out there. He called his friend who is running white tractors on his farm. He said for $10500. The guy should have took offer. On the way up there called auctioneer I know. On auction block range from $5000 to $6200. He said the guys who drops off there tractor. For consignment and want $8000 to $9000 end up taking them home. From this site and all info gathered he is asking to much. This tractor will easily cost $2000 to get everything back 100%. If I was to resell would never get close to getting money back.

Tractors engine and trans also hydraulics were solid. My offer was cash $9000. I told him what i found out on price. Said you better call the other guy back and take his $10500.

So now I can say I drove 2-110 very nice. Shifting would be great for my needs. The search goes on. What a good exsperence this has been. Do i look into green paint? Lol


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## hay rake (Dec 31, 2011)

it always amazes me the difference in areas.in your area they are 10-12. there are two on tractor house in indiana for 20 and where i am 12 would seem like a gift. if you want a 1855 fender thats new from radiator to pto shaft come on over its no colder here than there just a long drag back. course if there is a free lowbed going back to ashland they might give it a ride for you. anyway good luck with the search but remember tractors are like apples. they have to turn red before they are any good


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## Grateful11 (Apr 5, 2009)

I wish Craigslist was easier than it is to search nationwide. I was looking on there last night from the link provided to the White 2-110 and as most of you know there's no really good way to search it except by region. I have used searchtempest.com a lot but it goes by region but gets you a search results for multiple regions around your zip code you just have to weed through each region. I'd like to be able to find every JD 458 baler for sale in the country on Craigslist but haven't found a way to do that yet. I was searching some way off areas last night in bigger farming regions than around here and found some really interesting items especially in MN and WI.

http://www.searchtempest.com/


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## 8350HiTech (Jul 26, 2013)

I use http://www.adhuntr.com. It's how I found the link to the White. It has it's imperfections but it works.


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## somedevildawg (Jun 20, 2011)

I've always been real fond of them Granny Smith apples


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## TORCH (Jan 7, 2012)

hay rake said:


> it always amazes me the difference in areas.in your area they are 10-12. there are two on tractor house in indiana for 20 and where i am 12 would seem like a gift. if you want a 1855 fender thats new from radiator to pto shaft come on over its no colder here than there just a long drag back. course if there is a free lowbed going back to ashland they might give it a ride for you. anyway good luck with the search but remember tractors are like apples. they have to turn red before they are any good


Sure! Give me the info and I will gladly look at the 1855. Thanks


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## hay rake (Dec 31, 2011)

torch did you receive my pm


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## TORCH (Jan 7, 2012)

hay rake said:


> torch did you receive my pm


Hay Rake
No I did not get anything from you. New to site so may not know how or were to look.


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## hay rake (Dec 31, 2011)

well i'll try it here. i was pretty much joking but here goes. this is all under 500 hrs on a 1855 fender tractor. new radiator engine rebuilt, 3speed checked, new pto tube, hyd pump checked,transmission rebuilt, rear end checked with new bearings installed, pto checked with new seals installed,no new pto shaft but thats about all. rubber is 11Lx15 three rib front about 40% rears are firestone all traction raidials 16.9x38 about 60%. two new batteries will go in when it comes back in shop. also steering gets tightened up this winter and we have all perfect tin except fenders. with a coat of paint she'll be ready to go. all of this can be yours for the wonderful price of 9,500 dollars and a trailer ride to wisconsin from maine. if you passed on a 110 cab at 10-12 you can see why i said tractors sure sell for different prices in different areas the 110 would push 20 here. good luck in the hunt


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## 8350HiTech (Jul 26, 2013)

TORCH said:


> Hay Rake
> No I did not get anything from you. New to site so may not know how or were to look.


If you are using the full site, your messages are at the top to the left of your username. Click the envelope icon. 
If you are on the mobile site, your messages can be found by clicking the "window" (square with four squares inside) at the top right corner of your screen.


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## hay rake (Dec 31, 2011)

my problem is when i send something it comes back to me. when i sign in it will show as a message to me.


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## somedevildawg (Jun 20, 2011)

hay rake said:


> my problem is when i send something it comes back to me. when i sign in it will show as a message to me.


Really.....what browser are you using, that's very strange.....


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## hay rake (Dec 31, 2011)

google. i go to a persons site click on send me a message. it will say send a pm to so and so i send it and when i open the site again it will appear under my message envelope like it was sent to me


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## 8350HiTech (Jul 26, 2013)

White 2-105?

http://indianapolis.craigslist.org/grd/4856605817.html


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## hay rake (Dec 31, 2011)

very nice looking tractor nice price. not that paint bothers me but were the stripes on a 78 red. can't remember when they went from silver to red but the red looks much better


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## somedevildawg (Jun 20, 2011)

hay rake said:


> my problem is when i send something it comes back to me. when i sign in it will show as a message to me.


That's really strange, maybe puritanize can investigate that issue. I'll send him a PM


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## TORCH (Jan 7, 2012)

8350HiTech said:


> White 2-105?
> http://indianapolis.craigslist.org/grd/4856605817.html


Good find! Priced at retail value Tempted to call . Never had anything trucked that far. Anyone ever buy tractor so far away? Were do you go to find truckers looking for loads to haul? I thought there was some web site to post adds. Any info on that?


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## hay rake (Dec 31, 2011)

my 9230 came from indiana to maine the baler it pulls came from ohio. transport is easy to find paying for it is the hard part. usually find a local flatbed company in your local area to bring it home. lowbeds are usually more expensive unless you find some one trying to complete a round. that tractor weighs around 10,000 lbs book say's it's shipping weight is 11,800. so a 1 ton and good fith wheel trailer would handle it.


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## TORCH (Jan 7, 2012)

Well found white 2-105 1976 year. Going to look at it tomorrow. They are selling because they found a deere 4430 to replace. Talked to there mechanic pump turned up putting out 121 horse. No AC or interior no surprise.


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## hay rake (Dec 31, 2011)

a white with no ac is hellish unless you take out all the glass. if you take off the door the fan blows all the hot air from the radiator by the engine strait into the cab. the side windows just tip out so they get no breeze. i know it probably seems like a small thing but trust me to run it you about need to turn it into a fender tractor and that is what i have seen people do.


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## TORCH (Jan 7, 2012)

Well there is a 2-105 now in my barn. There is a lot of good things about it and also a list of things that need attention. Paid $4500. Came off a working farm but they are the type who just get it to work. I prefer to fix things back to original as much as one can.

Hear are a few items I could use input on.

1) The hour meter / tach is bad also the long cable is junk. My question on this item, is there a different setup to install? Or should I just put back the way it was? Just seems like the long cable will be a week spot.

2) Have never seen such make shift repairs in my life. Most all the return lines on the hydraulics are pieced together and leaking big time. There are some new lines on the pressure side and some older. Don't know what originally was on there so putting back will need some help there. The Guy said just pickup hose and clamp it back on. He is using regular hose clamps. Is this truly the way to fix? The pressure side is easer to fix just get regular hyd hose.

3) The wiring harness has been chopped up with but connectors and splices all over. Will just replace the main wiring harness. If any one knows were to get a new harness please let me know. I replaced the harness on my MF 1080 no electric problems now on that tractor. It was all messed up wrong alternator no tach drive ect.

4) It has 2 remotes all 4 are putting out 2200 - 2300 lbs. One leaks down right away the other 3 hold pressure. My guess is it has something to do with the fluid leaking out on the hyd lines.

The engine and trans runs strong and shifts good. Wont really know until I can use this summer. Got time to work the bugs out and fix all the butchered up items. After all the fixes pretty sure will come out way a head. Than if I bought from a dealer for $8500. I know there would be items to fix on a tractor even if dealer had it. My thought was, there were still using this tractor and put up with the items because it was still working. Perhaps this is better than buying a tractor that was sitting for years? Time will tell if I got burned or bought a good machine?

All your help is well appreciated!


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## JD3430 (Jan 1, 2012)

I think you did good. Dealers are crazy high on prices. I don't know if you read in another thread I was looking at a used Meyer Super spreader at a local big dealer. He told me what a lucky guy I was because he was going to let me steal it for $14,900. I wanted to buy, but wasn't real happy about the cost. I insisted it be tested before it was delivered. He complained, but tested it, called me back and said the main drive blew up, threw chain off and would cost thousands to repair. Some deal, huh? They were going to deliver it to me and it would have blown up in the field on the first day of use! 
One week later I found a BIGGER Meyer spreader with an auto lube system for $7,000 and it runs good. 
I really have turned sour on dealers with used equipment.


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## PaMike (Dec 7, 2013)

Some of the smaller jockeys are ok because they really do know their equipment. The bigger dealers have no idea what they are selling. One of the other salesman traded it in and the next salesman is just trying to turn it into a commission.


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## JD3430 (Jan 1, 2012)

PaMike said:


> Some of the smaller jockeys are ok because they really do know their equipment. The bigger dealers have no idea what they are selling. One of the other salesman traded it in and the next salesman is just trying to turn it into a commission.


Yes, you're right. The dealer who tried to sell me the Meyer spreader that blew up was probably biggest in PA. The dealer I bought my M9540 from was a small consignment dealer and everything went great. Price was excellent.


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## TORCH (Jan 7, 2012)

JD3430 I think we are on the same page. There is a dealer in my home town who has the same comparable tractor. Asking $8500 same problems no AC and interior also both had bad rear tires.

Gee we all know the dealer tractor would have needed some work also. There is always something to fix on this older equipment. Now I have $4000 to work with to get to the dealer price. I set a side $1000 to fix the know items to get things working better. Before I fix the AC, going to run this summer first to see if anything shows up that is major. Will take off the door and side windows. You just never know about use equipment until you run it and see how it performs.

Thank God you made dealer test Meyer super spreader! Now it is on there dime and not yours. You have more bucks in your pocket also! Maybe the dealer are for the rich? I did buy my diskbine new from dealer. The used prices were almost the same as new so this seemed to be the thing to do.

Life is sure full of possibility's !


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## 8350HiTech (Jul 26, 2013)

I need another project like a hole in the head but I'm probably calling about this in the morning. About two hours from here. Why not, right? Right?!

http://pittsburgh.craigslist.org/grd/4893207606.html


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## Vol (Jul 5, 2009)

8350HiTech said:


> I need another project like a hole in the head but I'm probably calling about this in the morning. About two hours from here. Why not, right? Right?!
> 
> http://pittsburgh.craigslist.org/grd/4893207606.html


Don't blame you a bit....I would too....if it will start and drive that will be a huge plus.

Regards, Mike


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## 8350HiTech (Jul 26, 2013)

Vol said:


> Don't blame you a bit....I would too....if it will start and drive that will be a huge plus.
> 
> Regards, Mike


Would using the boost box parked next to it count as "starting "?


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## Vol (Jul 5, 2009)

Shoot, if it will crank with a boost that would be a good sign for the money....I expect that you might be able to buy it for 3K....maybe a little more.

I think mlappin could advise you on getting this one and TORCH'S 2-105 AC going without much problem. Seems like I remember reading about him doing a update conversion on his.

Regards, Mike


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## deadmoose (Oct 30, 2011)

That's going to require a bit of time and patience. Looks like a good project for someone like yourself qith both to spare.


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## TORCH (Jan 7, 2012)

One side of the coin is it is cheap horsepower! Some of us have more time than $$$$$! I think you should go for it! Than we would both be going through a project at the same time. Never hurts to have motivation from others!

I need to find better source for parts other than dealer. Called about wiring harness $400 from dealer. The engine part of harness. Bought parts manual and service manuals from. Jensales PDF format.

Let use know if you get the tractor. Were to get parts is the key and I have lots of research to do!


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## 8350HiTech (Jul 26, 2013)

I talked to the guy tonight. Messaged mlappin about some specifics on a transmission noise that it has. I'll probably get a second opinion in the morning from the local tractor mechanic.


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## TORCH (Jan 7, 2012)

8350HiTech said:


> I talked to the guy tonight. Messaged mlappin about some specifics on a transmission noise that it has. I'll probably get a second opinion in the morning from the local tractor mechanic.


It has been 6 days since you posted about this tractor. Im looking for an up date from you! Did you get it Did you get it?


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## 8350HiTech (Jul 26, 2013)

TORCH said:


> It has been 6 days since you posted about this tractor. Im looking for an up date from you! Did you get it Did you get it?


I appreciate your enthusiasm. I like spending other people's money too! 

I talked to him again a few days ago and he still had it. If the EGR delete kit for my car arrives tomorrow like it's supposed to, I'll put it back together and go for a ride to see the tractor if it's still available.


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## 8350HiTech (Jul 26, 2013)

I'd buy it quickly if I thought it was definitely a $1000 transmission repair instead of maybe a $3000 repair. Also wish it had a/c but it's not an absolute deal breaker. On the plus side it has a recent clutch and 5900 total hours but was overhauled a few years ago.


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## 8350HiTech (Jul 26, 2013)

I stopped at my local Massey dealer today. They've been with AGCO family brands forever (including some time with Deutz which used White parts at the time). I got to talk to one of the lifers in the service department and he's certain it's the shifting fork that's bad on the tractor that I'm looking at. That really didn't surprise me. The part that did surprise me: the price. He quoted me $1500. I thought sure a dealer would be looking at more money to split and repair a tractor. Also, it turns out his grandson married one of my cousins  Anyway, I have my car back on the road so it's time I should take a ride to see this thing.


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## hay rake (Dec 31, 2011)

maibach's in ohio will have good used for half price of new. you don't have to split a white. cab tractor you pull the cab pop the top cover and go down through. disconnect the chain coupler and the input shaft goes into the trans and out the top.transmission runs in gear oil the hyd is in a pan on top under the top cover. thats why if hyd oil is low and trans high you know someone has over filled the hyd and blown the gasket


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## 8350HiTech (Jul 26, 2013)

Would you consider that a relatively straightforward job for a decent DIY mechanic?

In talking with the service guys, I think their reasoning for splitting was a possible savings of labor if there might be a need to replace the clutch.


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## hay rake (Dec 31, 2011)

no reason to split an oliver or white. after you take the pto drive shaft out you disconnect the chain coupler and lift out the engine and three speed as a unit. then you do all of your work on a bench or the floor. we have rebuilt engines. three speeds transmissions and rear ends haven't split one yet.


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## TORCH (Jan 7, 2012)

I'm about an hour away from lifting cab off tractor. Some of the reasons for taking off is there is one hyd line. That goes to pump back to top of main housing has bends but is only about 10 inches. Can't get to it with cab on would be easy if it is off. Than I can get at all the lines under cab for a good inspection. There are leaks under there and I am determined to fix them. Will be able to get at hyd lines for steering also. Going to install new engine wiring harness along with this work. Anything I'm finding is getting fixed. From all the input leads me to believe it is not worth fixing the air and I don't need heat for making hay. Will just take side windows out open up back.

Will be starting up and running to check for leaks before I put cab back on.

If anyone has input as to what to check or open up and look at. While the cab is off please let me know so I can add to the list of things to do. Thanks hope we all have a good week


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## hay rake (Dec 31, 2011)

torch make sure the transmission/rearend and hyd are full and let it run a while before you take the cab off. if the rearend goes up and the hyd goes down you have a leak between them. it would be a good time to find this out because the only way to fix it is by taking off the top cover. people over fill the hyd and blow out the gasket or sometimes the pan will crack. just me but i would fix the ac. if u don't fix it don't take the door off, the fan will fill the cab with hot air from the radiator and blown back by a hot engine. makes it dammed near unbearable. that white needle nose is pretty but it comes with a price


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