# Chain lube, what do YOU use?



## fastline (Mar 2, 2013)

I have been around cycles all my life and my first reach is for MC chain lube which is usually paraffin based to stay in place and not fly off BUT with all these chains on the baler and swather, I really want to rethink the best lube for this both in terms of cost and performance. I have several sprockets that are close to replacement and I cannot find the time to deal with it. I plan to keep the lube flowing and keep tension just right. Coming off of MC stuff, that seems the best way to curb failure.


----------



## Grateful11 (Apr 5, 2009)

*John Deere Chain and Cable Lubricant*

https://jdparts.deere.com/partsmkt/document/english/pmac/33119_fb_chemicals_cleaner_lube_range.htm#_Toc289072819


----------



## askinner (Nov 15, 2010)

I just use plain ol 50w transmission & drivetrain oil. Not too worried about it flinging off, the chaff sticks to it and dries it out, then I just scrape it off. I can't justify buying the moto style lubes, I'd end up spending more on lubes than I would by not lubing and just replacing chains, as the chain is relatively cheap (I rechained my whole baler for about $400). I just buy a 55gal drum of it and decant into a 5 gal drum and pump it on with a drum pump with it running after baling.

If you replace the chains before they are worn out, the sprockets should last the life of the machine if the lubes kept up to it. Not sure what your baler is, but if you have a NH and haven't looked into sprocket pricing yet, then you may want to take a seat at the dealer before he tells you the pricing of them. 1 Sprocket will rechain a whole baler!


----------



## fastline (Mar 2, 2013)

My baler is an M&W. Glad I did not go NH in that case...


----------



## Vol (Jul 5, 2009)

Ditto on the JD chain lube....it really is the best. I don't know who makes it for JD, but it stays on very well.

Regards, Mike


----------



## swmnhay (Jun 13, 2008)

I like the JB chain lube.It is sticky so it doesn't fly off.It's gotten to be pretty expensive tho.$7-8 a can.And a can doesn't go as far as the other thinner brands.


----------



## mlappin (Jun 25, 2009)

I use the chain lube from Agco, not a lot of need for it though on my round baler as the auto lube kit is well worth it. Have had it on since I bought the baler and haven't had to adjust any chains yet.


----------



## Vol (Jul 5, 2009)

swmnhay said:


> I like the JB chain lube.It is sticky so it doesn't fly off.It's gotten to be pretty expensive tho.$7-8 a can.And a can doesn't go as far as the other thinner brands.


Cy, JB may be the one who makes the rebranded JD lube....price is about the same and like you said it does not go real far, but it is worth it.

Regards, Mike


----------



## DYNOBOB (Nov 29, 2011)

I use this from Walmart. http://www.walmart.com/ip/DuPont-Teflon-Chain-Saver-11-oz/16672659


----------



## purdue_boilermaker (Sep 20, 2011)

Another vote for the JD chain lube, it has performed extremely well for us.


----------



## swmnhay (Jun 13, 2008)

Vol said:


> Cy, JB may be the one who makes the rebranded JD lube....price is about the same and like you said it does not go real far, but it is worth it.
> 
> Regards, Mike


Yea it takes me a full can to do the 12 row planter.

It's foamy at first when you spray it on.


----------



## Grateful11 (Apr 5, 2009)

DYNOBOB said:


> I use this from Walmart. http://www.walmart.com/ip/DuPont-Teflon-Chain-Saver-11-oz/16672659


I like the what I read about this stuff. I like the idea of a dry film.

http://www2.dupont.com/Consumer_Lubricants/en_US/products/chain_saver.html


----------



## kyfred (Dec 23, 2009)

I use what ever cheap 30wt oil in the chain lube jugs on the M&W roll baler and keep most of the used oil we accumulate for the rest of the chains and before we roll with the baler turning I pour used oil on the chains that turn the bars that turn the hay in the baler. Have had the M&W 4590 baler for over 20 yrs. still running the chains that have the bars that turn the hay. Have replaced the smaller chains once.


----------



## barnrope (Mar 22, 2010)

DYNOBOB said:


> I use this from Walmart. http://www.walmart.com/ip/DuPont-Teflon-Chain-Saver-11-oz/16672659
> 
> 
> 
> ...


----------



## jpritchett (Sep 22, 2009)

We always used shaefers? Or JD chain lube


----------



## bluefarmer (Oct 10, 2010)

Can't believe nobody mentioned chainsaw bar and chain oil am I making a mistake?


----------



## hog987 (Apr 5, 2011)

I use used motor oil. Run the machine for a bit to warm up chains and than either pour or brush on. Used gear oil works better but dont have enough of that around.


----------



## mlappin (Jun 25, 2009)

Query, if used oil isn't good enough to keep in a engine that's pressure lubricated, has a filter and isn't open to the atmosphere so it's exposed to dust, dirt and water why is it good enough for a chain that's exposed to water, dirt and dust?

Dont get me wrong, we use old oil as well...at the end of the year to keep the pins and bushings from rusting while stored over the winter, never while in actual use though. We mix it 50/50 with diesel fuel then use a siphon gun to spray the gathering chains, throat chains and clean and reclean elevator chains before storing the combines. The actual roller chains on the machine get sprayed with dedicated chain lube.


----------



## AndyL (Mar 9, 2013)

barnrope said:


> DYNOBOB said:
> 
> 
> > I use this from Walmart. http://www.walmart.com/ip/DuPont-Teflon-Chain-Saver-11-oz/16672659
> ...


I'm with you on that. Walmart do suck, aka Chinamart.


----------



## blueridgehay (Dec 25, 2012)

I guess I'm just to tight. I'm for the used motor oil. Cut it with a little diesel fuel and put it in a pump sprayer and squirt it on. I'm so tight I generally get outta bed to roll over so I don't wear my sheets out.


----------



## hog987 (Apr 5, 2011)

mlappin said:


> Query, if used oil isn't good enough to keep in a engine that's pressure lubricated, has a filter and isn't open to the atmosphere so it's exposed to dust, dirt and water why is it good enough for a chain that's exposed to water, dirt and dust?
> 
> Dont get me wrong, we use old oil as well...at the end of the year to keep the pins and bushings from rusting while stored over the winter, never while in actual use though. We mix it 50/50 with diesel fuel then use a siphon gun to spray the gathering chains, throat chains and clean and reclean elevator chains before storing the combines. The actual roller chains on the machine get sprayed with dedicated chain lube.


First of all oil in an engine is somewhat exposed to thoses elements. Condensation being the worse of them.

Second used oil in an engine is better than no oil at all. You wont get 10000 hours out of your motor but you will get more than 2 minutes.

Third how much money can you spent on fancy oil??? Chain is usually not too much money. How much money can you spend oiling chains before it is cheaper to replace.

Fourth oil the chains when they are warm. Most people dont do this. Also it is better to grease the machine when it is warm. It is better to service the machine at the end of the day, but than again any oil and grease is better than none.

fifth. if a chain is running into the dirt it might be better to run it dry. Something like some chains on a drill. The hay dust on chains is usually not too abrasive,it is less abrasive than metal on metal. So used oil on chains covered in dust is still better than no oil at all.


----------



## Texasmark (Dec 20, 2011)

I use some stuff in an olive drab can with white cap from California. Don't remember the name. It foams up when you put it on and doesn't sling off. Penetrates real well. Had used Liquid Wrench brand before that and it was ok, just this is better.

I prefer the purchased items over home brew as it contains Moly. and to me that's worth the price.

Mark


----------



## aawhite (Jan 16, 2012)

We always cut used oil with diesel fuel and sprayed in on with an old paint gun, big tip, and while machines were running. Did this for the balers, forage harvester, silage wagons, etc. Never had issues.


----------



## mlappin (Jun 25, 2009)

blueridgehay said:


> I guess I'm just to tight. I'm for the used motor oil. Cut it with a little diesel fuel and put it in a pump sprayer and squirt it on. I'm so tight I generally get outta bed to roll over so I don't wear my sheets out.


or so tight when you fart only dogs can hear it?


----------



## mlappin (Jun 25, 2009)

hog987 said:


> First of all oil in an engine is somewhat exposed to thoses elements. Condensation being the worse of them.
> 
> Second used oil in an engine is better than no oil at all. You wont get 10000 hours out of your motor but you will get more than 2 minutes.
> 
> ...


Used to run all kinds of bikes, a premium dedicated chain lube will drastically increase even the life of a chain on a street bike.

Dedicated chain lube also has tack elements added to it so it stays put better which means less mess on the machine.

Unless you're buying the cheapest imported chain, it isn't that cheap anymore.

Any stretch in the chain will start to wear the sprockets then the real big bucks get involved.

Whenever possible we oil chains when warm, really like to do it right before eating lunch if possible so it has time to soak in before use.


----------



## hog987 (Apr 5, 2011)

Sprockets don't cost too much either if you can weld up your own. I used to weld them by the thousands when I was working in the machine shop.


----------



## Texasmark (Dec 20, 2011)

JB is the name I was trying to remember. It covers all the bases. Comes out of California. Company makes a lot of industrial lubes.

When I think about how much work the chain does, and how important lube is, and all the used JD balers out there with the sheet metal bulge where the chain has broken probably due to neglect/poor lube, the price of a can of lube and the mental relief that comes with it is not much to pay. Hard to find a used JD baler without the damage or obvious sheet metal replacement. Speaks volumes to me.

Course I take care of my equipment that I paid for and that I use and want reliable service from it. Your equipment and all that is your doins. To each his own.

Mark


----------



## somedevildawg (Jun 20, 2011)

I've always used automatic transmission fluid, what dad taught us to do, still do it.....theres prolly better stuff, it's cheap and sprays on real good and doesn't damage the paint close to the chain...


----------



## hayward (Jan 26, 2012)

When I bought my new jd baler guy than runs dealership suggested Motor oil, apply at end of the day when chains r hot (warm) and as they cool they draw the oil into the links. Works pretty good I think. When I get it out to bale chains always still wet(no rust) an ready to go. I use new 40w rotella


----------



## mlappin (Jun 25, 2009)

hog987 said:


> Sprockets don't cost too much either if you can weld up your own. I used to weld them by the thousands when I was working in the machine shop.


Yeah, thing I noticed about the weld a hub sprockets is they don't seem to last near as long as the OEM ones. Not as hard at the teeth is my thinking.


----------



## DSLinc1017 (Sep 27, 2009)

My manual for NH 1465 haybine says use 10w30. I've also used liquid wrench chain lube, that stuff seems to work very well. At the end of the day the chain still looks wet. It is also very convenient, and easy to use.


----------



## Ox76 (Oct 22, 2018)

blueridgehay said:


> I guess I'm just to tight. I'm for the used motor oil. Cut it with a little diesel fuel and put it in a pump sprayer and squirt it on. I'm so tight I generally get outta bed to roll over so I don't wear my sheets out.


lol

I'm so tight I squeak when I walk!


----------



## Ox76 (Oct 22, 2018)

You guys wanna know how to make chains last damn near forever? It's messy as hell and most people won't do it this way and I don't blame them. But....

Take all chains off. Melt down a whole bunch of grease in a turkey baster pan or something similar. Drop chains in melted grease and move around in there a little to get pins and bushings totally covered. Hang up chain to drip dry.

It's messy. It's time consuming. But I bet the chain will last a lifetime. I've only done this once as an experiment after hearing about it from an old timer around here. The chain was for a snowblower. It had a very fine coating of grease, mostly invisible to the eye, on everything and was messy to handle. Personally I think I'll just stick to dribbling on oil of whatever weight or style.


----------



## carcajou (Jan 28, 2011)

Ox76 said:


> You guys wanna know how to make chains last damn near forever? It's messy as hell and most people won't do it this way and I don't blame them. But....
> 
> Take all chains off. Melt down a whole bunch of grease in a turkey baster pan or something similar. Drop chains in melted grease and move around in there a little to get pins and bushings totally covered. Hang up chain to drip dry.
> 
> It's messy. It's time consuming. But I bet the chain will last a lifetime. I've only done this once as an experiment after hearing about it from an old timer around here. The chain was for a snowblower. It had a very fine coating of grease, mostly invisible to the eye, on everything and was messy to handle. Personally I think I'll just stick to dribbling on oil of whatever weight or style.


Might work well on a snowblower but can't see it working at all on a hot roller chain on a round baler. Just bought a new round baler and it will get a lubeminder on it soon as it shows up. ( not till may unfortunately). Used them for years and had good results.


----------



## Bruce Hopf (Jun 29, 2016)

I've been running Chain Saw Bar Oil, the Tackier, the Better, on all of my roller chains, on my Baler, Haybine, Swather, Combines, Manure Spreader, and Snow Blower. I put it on everything in gear, wait a while, and with everything still in gear, I use an undercoating gun, hooked up to the air compressor, and give all the chains, a real good coating, every other day, depending on how much I use, the equipment, the previous day, or when I grease the equipment, before heading out to the field.


----------



## clowers (Feb 11, 2011)

I use chain and cable lube, I apply it as soon as I finish baling while the chains are hot. I feel it pulls the grease inside when it begins to cool. Just the wayI do it.


----------



## Hayjosh (Mar 24, 2016)

Since this thread's been bumped...where can I still find the JD chain oil? I haven't had much success. Do they still make it? Not on Amazon, Ebay, or Green Parts Store.


----------



## IHCman (Aug 27, 2011)

I like the JB's the best though as others have said the can doesn't last long. I'll grab the Case IH stuff or JD if I need some and happen to be in the store and it works fine, just like the JB stuff better.


----------



## Vol (Jul 5, 2009)

Hayjosh said:


> where can I still find the JD chain oil? I haven't had much success. Do they still make it? Not on Amazon, Ebay, or Green Parts Store.


Dealerships and here the local co ops carry JD Chain Oil. The price is just about the same at either.

Regards, Mike


----------



## Idaho Hay (Oct 14, 2016)

I've been running Maxima chain wax for about the last 10 years. What I like a bout it, is that it sprays on thin and easy and once it dries, it's not sticky to the touch so minimal dirt/debris sticks to the chains. I also use it to lube lots of other things like shifter mechanisms, etc.


----------



## slowzuki (Mar 8, 2011)

Same here summer bar oil for baler chains. Or whatever is around. Once you decide to lube chain in a dusty environment the more lube the better to flush out dirt that contaminates it.

Used engine oil works fine too, the tiny particles that were just starting to be a problem lubing the engine when you drained it is nothing compared to 10 s of dirt and grime when baling.


----------



## Gearclash (Nov 25, 2010)

carcajou said:


> Might work well on a snowblower but can't see it working at all on a hot roller chain on a round baler. Just bought a new round baler and it will get a lubeminder on it soon as it shows up. ( not till may unfortunately). Used them for years and had good results.


What are you going to use on your new baler? I'm considering installing automated lubrication on my balers, both oil and grease.


----------



## carcajou (Jan 28, 2011)

Gearclash said:


> What are you going to use on your new baler? I'm considering installing automated lubrication on my balers, both oil and grease.


I have been running these for years. http://products.gosuburban.com/viewitems/john-deere/lube-minder-automatic-oiler-john-deere they definitely work well. The JD 560 balers come with grease banks like my Vermeer has and being there is only a handful of grease zerks i think i'll just keep using the Milwaukee grease gun i have. I am considering removing the side panels right away and putting doors on the twine compartments. Should have did that when i bought the Vermeer. Did you get your new balers sorted out?


----------



## Gearclash (Nov 25, 2010)

carcajou said:


> I have been running these for years. http://products.gosuburban.com/viewitems/john-deere/lube-minder-automatic-oiler-john-deere they definitely work well. The JD 560 balers come with grease banks like my Vermeer has and being there is only a handful of grease zerks i think i'll just keep using the Milwaukee grease gun i have. I am considering removing the side panels right away and putting doors on the twine compartments. Should have did that when i bought the Vermeer. * Did you get your new balers sorted out?*


Thanks! That was the oiler I had looked at.

I think we have a handle on the new balers for the most part. The dealer sent a tech out last month to work on the belt declutches, that was definitely a factory problem. In the long run I think I will be glad I went with these balers. They give me the bale I want in cornstalks. The reason I'm looking harder at auto lube systems is because I feel I was not keeping up on chain oiling and greasing on the old balers. Chains really should be oiled continuously or not at all, and oiling every 2-300 bales just doesn't cut it. I can't always oil the chains my self, and I will not ask some else to oil them for me for safety reasons. Same thing with greasing. There are a couple grease points on NH balers that need to be greased fairly frequently and generously or the fitting plugs. An auto greaser would solve that problem nicely but to find the right system and one that is affordable seems difficult. We are putting more bales a day through these new balers and any shortfall in maintenance with be magnified.


----------



## rjmoses (Apr 4, 2010)

Gearclash said:


> What are you going to use on your new baler? I'm considering installing automated lubrication on my balers, both oil and grease.


I have both chain oiler and Lincoln autolube on my round baler.

I like the chain oiler, but I still hit the chains with with a light weight chain lube every once in a while over the summer and at the end of the year. The oiler system takes 30 weight, but I use chain lube to penetrate down into the inside of the rollers.

I don't trust the Lincoln autolube system because I had a grease line dry out and the bearing wasn't getting any grease. I will admit I have one of the first auto-greasers that they produced so I'm guessing they have made significant improvements over the last 10 years.

Ralph


----------



## slowzuki (Mar 8, 2011)

Supposed to be some type of dry line indicator on the current generation?


----------



## jr in va (Apr 15, 2015)

I have gotten along well with bar and chain lube.Like to oil chains at the end of the day when they are warm and can take it in better.


----------



## Swv.farmer (Jan 2, 2016)

I like chain wax I use it on the boy's dirt bike and the baler chains.
I've had good luck with it.


----------



## Ranger518 (Aug 6, 2016)

I use chain wax made for dirt bikes seams to not collect as much as oil or grease and easer to clean up.


----------



## r82230 (Mar 1, 2016)

Gearclash said:


> The reason I'm looking harder at auto lube systems is because I feel I was not keeping up on chain oiling and greasing on the old balers. Chains really should be oiled continuously or not at all, and oiling every 2-300 bales just doesn't cut it.


This similar to what I put on my RB a couple of years ago, it calls for SAE 30 (like Ralph mentions), squirts a little oil every time you open rear gate.

Larry


----------



## GOOD HAY (Aug 8, 2010)

I use Castrol motorcylcle chain oil. My NH 570 is 25 years old and has done probably 400,000 bales I have adjusted one chain once, everything else is the same as the day it was delivered. I spray it on twice a year at the end of the day when everything is warm and it has time to set over night.


----------



## jettex (Jul 5, 2018)

What do y'all use to clean your chains in the spring. I just bought a used baler and notice some rust and such on some of the chains. Is there something to soak them in, and for how long?


----------



## Jerry/MT (Dec 14, 2017)

I squeeze a nickel so hard the buffalo pees!


----------



## Jerry/MT (Dec 14, 2017)

I use a chain lube that has oil and graphite in it. The oil seems to evaporate and it leaves the graphite behind.


----------



## 32-0-0 (May 30, 2017)

Saw this on amazon...I've used Schaeffer grease and have been happy with it. May try some this year. Anybody use this stuff before?

Schaeffer Manufacturing Co. 0227-011S Moly Roller Chain Lube, 13 oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JF2L7TW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_S6GACbM82HQXF


----------

