# Which new Disc mower would you buy?



## tom-ky (May 30, 2011)

Looking to replace a aged disc mower that I can no longer get parts for. I have a Kubota M7040. I have looked at the new Kuhns, GMD24 and GMD240, $800 difference in price. Also found a left over 2014 GMD 600 for a little less. Also looked at the Kubota mowers, they look lighter than Kuhn, about the same money. Really don't want one of the off brands like Forts, been there and done that. NH is a heavy mower and more money.

Overall the Kubota is the lightest mower, Kuhn the NH. I think Kuhn parts would be easier to get around here, not sure how much the Kubota dealer keeps for their mowers.

Any suggestions on the better mower? I think the Kubota looks lighter built but I be overly concerned, about 300# lighter.


----------



## somedevildawg (Jun 20, 2011)

The kuhn is very hard to beat at the price point it comes in at, sometimes you can find a frontier (kuhn) a bit cheaper at JD dealer......


----------



## rajela (Feb 15, 2014)

What size mower are you looking for.


----------



## tom-ky (May 30, 2011)

rajela said:


> What size mower are you looking for.


8 foot.


----------



## Troy Farmer (Jul 31, 2011)

Krone or Kuhn. And most important, closest and most dependable dealer.


----------



## rajela (Feb 15, 2014)

Troy Farmer said:


> Krone or Kuhn. And most important, closest and most dependable dealer.


in that order...even though I am currently running a Kuhn I think the Krone is a better mower. I would also consider a Vermeer.


----------



## Colby (Mar 5, 2012)

Krone.


----------



## luke strawwalker (Jul 31, 2014)

Kubota mowers are repainted Vicons, three blade disk. Kverneland makes them. Don't know how much market share Vicon/Kverneland has, but they're a good brand. Agree I'd stay away from the "off brands". The Vicons are a gear bed bar type like Kuhn.

Personally I like the looks of the New Holland from a maintenance/durability standpoint. The individual units would be easier to fix than a gearbed type mower. Also, watched some YouTube videos about fixing the New Holland MowMax shear hubs versus the Kuhn shear hubs... Kuhn cuts the shaft down to about 1/2 to 3/4 inch diameter just below the hub, so if it hits something, the whole turtle and shaft flange shears off and gets thrown out from under the cutter... it's an instant $240 repair, as is any bearing problems on the hub, because Kuhn only sells the bearing/hub/gear as a unit... NO individual parts to rebuild. New Holland's MowMax hub, if it shears, is like $36 bucks and about ten minutes to fix-- it just strips the teeth out of the shear hub to let the disk spin if it hits something.

My New Holland dealer near Shiner only sells Kuhns, doesn't even have any New Holland mowers on the lot. I asked "why" and the parts man said vaguely "Kuhns are better". I've run a 9 foot Kuhn and it did a good job, but from a maintenance and parts standpoint, I think the Kuhn is a lot "better for the dealer" from what I can see...

Haven't run a New Holland mower with the shaft driven individual units, but I'd LOVE to hear from folks who have. I've seen some pretty nice NH mowers pretty reasonable, and the local NH dealer does have some new ones on the lot, but I haven't talked prices with him... just looked them over.

Frontier mowers are the "cheap" Deere brand... they're the older style Kuhn mowers. Deere mowers are the new style Kuhns painted green. Boehm Tractor in Shiner (the dealer I usually deal with) has new models of both the older style Kuhn (non-top service hubs IIRC) and the new style Kuhns... (top service hubs). Green paint will probably cost you more unless you get some sort of deal or financing that works better for you.

CIH is selling New Hollands painted in CIH red...

New Holland also sells a cheaper gearbed type mower... cheaper and lighter than the shaft-driven bar models.

Later! OL JR


----------



## Circle MC Farms LLC (Jul 22, 2011)

One thing worth mentioning is the Deere dealers stock parts for Kuhn mowers since that's all a Deere is, a repainted Kuhn. As for the integrity of their mowers, they are great. never had issues and it's been run hard. Only thing is that they can be a PITA to hook up so would recommend a caddy, that will also take some stress off your tractor.


----------



## rajela (Feb 15, 2014)

luke strawwalker said:


> Kubota mowers are repainted Vicons, three blade disk. Kverneland makes them. Don't know how much market share Vicon/Kverneland has, but they're a good brand. Agree I'd stay away from the "off brands". The Vicons are a gear bed bar type like Kuhn.
> 
> Personally I like the looks of the New Holland from a maintenance/durability standpoint. The individual units would be easier to fix than a gearbed type mower. Also, watched some YouTube videos about fixing the New Holland MowMax shear hubs versus the Kuhn shear hubs... Kuhn cuts the shaft down to about 1/2 to 3/4 inch diameter just below the hub, so if it hits something, the whole turtle and shaft flange shears off and gets thrown out from under the cutter... it's an instant $240 repair, as is any bearing problems on the hub, because Kuhn only sells the bearing/hub/gear as a unit... NO individual parts to rebuild. New Holland's MowMax hub, if it shears, is like $36 bucks and about ten minutes to fix-- it just strips the teeth out of the shear hub to let the disk spin if it hits something.
> 
> ...


Mowmax is the cutter bar design. The shear hub you are speaking of is called ShockPRO. The shock pro is a good idea but if you strip a hub and it gets out of time with the other hubs you could end up wih some damage to the other hubs also. Krone has a design that shears like the shock pro but when it does the hub raises up a little bit so it is out of the way of the adjoining hubs.


----------



## luke strawwalker (Jul 31, 2014)

That's good to know...

I like the looks of the Krone mowers better than the Kuhns... from a maintenance standpoint anyway. Both are gearbed bar mowers. How does the little turtle gears running off of the bigger intermediate bar gears hold up compared to the more "normal" Kuhn design with the similar-sized gears?? How about bearings and parts cost for the Krone machines?

Our Deere dealer was stocking a few Krone cutters, but is down to one drag-type model now. Seems like he's started stocking more of the Deere (green Kuhn) mowers (not the cheaper Frontier models either).

Very curious to hear people's experiences with the various makes, parts cost for them, maintenance issues and stuff, etc.

Later! OL JR


----------



## krone.1 (Jul 28, 2013)

"How about bearings and parts cost for the Krone machines?"

These parts are suggested list prices for our AM series mowers:

1500172- pinion: $143.49

9303421 (6206 2rs) Lower bearing: $16.06

9303431 (6306 2rs) Upper bearing: $22.28

1391901 Drive gear with bearing: $176.07

Main drive belt has lifetime parts and labor warranty.


----------



## luke strawwalker (Jul 31, 2014)

That's good to know... top service hubs right?? Rebuildable at the farm shop right??

When I started learning more about the Kuhns and the non-rebuildable hubs and stuff, the less I liked them. I ran a 9.5 footer on a 5610S for a fellow schoolbus driver's husband a few years back, and it was a great cutting machine (once the setup was done right-- I swear evidently the guy and his son must've never read the book or don't know much about machinery, because they were running in 5th gear (5mph) in everything and sometimes dropping to 4th gear because "it'll slip the belts if you run too fast"... Got to looking and the belt tension spring was sticking out of the little sleeve that you tighten the nut/washer down so its almost touching by about two inches-- so the belts were running at MAYBE half-tension of what they should have. Grabbed a crescent and cranked that baby down and I could run at 6mph all day long through anything you wanted to throw at it. I asked him about it later and he said "they delivered it that way-- said everything was all set up". Course, the tractor front wheels were running SO over-toed-in that it had worn all the rubber off the tri-ribs-- they were almost slick from roading between jobs. The tractor would constantly "dart" back and forth as the wheels were fighting in the field and road travel was worse... I finally took about an hour one morning when the dew was too heavy to cut (IMHO) and reset the toe "by eye", which probably got it within about 10% of where it should be... could've got it spot on if I'd had a tape measure. Anyway, that cured that problem, but the tires were still worn out-- wasted money. Stuff like that bothers me. Asked him about that too, and he said "well, when I bought the tractor, I told them to set the wheels in so it'd fit on my gooseneck lowboy so I can haul it if the jobs are too far away, and that's how they delivered it... said it was all set up and good to go!" Course I know the dealer he got it from, and they don't hire anybody but kids right out of high school, and they don't seem to know anything about anything, and don't care... they only work there long enough to get a better job and they're off like a shot. Took a bearing there to be pressed into a hipper housing one time and the kid started pressing it and it went cockeyed in the bore as it started, and I told him he better back it off and start it straight, and he got really snippy and bad attitude with me and kept cranking on the press, and I just got WAY the h3ll back, because I knew what was coming next... BAM! The bearing exploded like a hand grenade-- dented the heck out of the tin on the shop back wall behind the press-- luckily he wasn't hurt. Ruined the housing of course. Took it up front to the boss and made him give me a new housing and bearing... went to Harbor Freight and bought my own press... no time for idiots.

Our Deere dealer doesn't seem to have any Krone mowers (just one pull type, been there awhile from what I can tell) but now he's stocking more of the green Kuhns (Deere) mowers. I wonder why. Some of these dealers like to "lap up" competing brands so they can keep them off the market. Wonder if that's what's going on or what.

Thanks for the information and have a good one! OL JR


----------



## TJH (Mar 23, 2014)

Go Krone and you won't be sorry! After 18 years and approx. 5k acres, one hub bearing set on the outside top hat and 1 cylinder kit and a new curtain and it's still cutting. I put it on a SPM caddy and now life's good.


----------



## JD3430 (Jan 1, 2012)

rajela said:


> Mowmax is the cutter bar design. The shear hub you are speaking of is called ShockPRO. The shock pro is a good idea but if you strip a hub and it gets out of time with the other hubs you could end up wih some damage to the other hubs also. Krone has a design that shears like the shock pro but when it does the hub raises up a little bit so it is out of the way of the adjoining hubs.


I sheared 2 shock pro hubs this summer. No damage at all to the other hubs. 
VERY easy to fix. Timing is a snap, they simply run perpendicular to each other.


----------



## Chuck (Dec 14, 2014)

I bought a John deere mo co this year with steel tri lobe rolls in it. It does a great job on alfalfa and grass. We did a test between these rolls and impeller,,, hay that was cut with tri lobe rolls was 8 to 14 % drier than the impeller


----------



## rajela (Feb 15, 2014)

TJH said:


> Go Krone and you won't be sorry! After 18 years and approx. 5k acres, one hub bearing set on the outside top hat and 1 cylinder kit and a new curtain and it's still cutting. I put it on a SPM caddy and now life's good.


How do you like the SPM caddy. Looking at getting one this spring.


----------



## rajela (Feb 15, 2014)

JD3430 said:


> I sheared 2 shock pro hubs this summer. No damage at all to the other hubs.
> VERY easy to fix. Timing is a snap, they simply run perpendicular to each other.


Good to hear. Kuhn is going to have to get on board with some type of replacement shear device other than a complete hub replacement.


----------



## krone.1 (Jul 28, 2013)

*"That's good to know... top service hubs right?? Rebuildable at the farm shop right??"*

I think we probably have one of the easiest to service hub assemblies in the industry. (I can even do it!)

Really no special tools required... you will need a 40mm/1-5/8 socket to remove the top nut. A press is nice to have, but not necessary. Unlike our (K)ompetitor, the bearings are replaceable and available through us or any bearing supplier.

You can take all the hubs out the top of the bar. If you need to remove the drive gears, you slide them out the end of the bar. The drive gear bearings are replaceable also. We use an internal snap ring on the outer bearing race to hold it in place so a good press (or torch) is necessary to remove the old bearing. The drive gears only turn 800 rpms so bearing failures in the drive gears are rare.


----------



## krone.1 (Jul 28, 2013)

Just an FYI, The part number for the idler gear bearing is 9303260. I don't have a manufacturer number for it. It may not be as easy to find locally as the spindle bearings are since it has it has a snap ring groove on the outer race. You compress the snap ring and when you install the bearing in the gear it locks in a groove in the bore of the gear. The list price for the bearing through Krone is $10.80. The snap ring is sold separately and the part number is 1442363. List price for it is $0.46.


----------



## TJH (Mar 23, 2014)

It will change your attitude about hooking up the mower rajela. 45 sec. to one minute tops. It also takes the stress of the tractor and the ride through the field is much smoother. Now wither you chose the SPM or another with stagger wheels is up to your preference. Every new one I see here is the SPM, and I would hate to have to do without it. Get one and it will be the best purchase you've ever made!


----------



## somedevildawg (Jun 20, 2011)

Love my KMC. Would not want to be without one.....if I had a krone or a claas maybe not so bad but kuhn is trouble without a caddy.


----------



## rajela (Feb 15, 2014)

TJH said:


> It will change your attitude about hooking up the mower rajela. 45 sec. to one minute tops. It also takes the stress of the tractor and the ride through the field is much smoother. Now wither you chose the SPM or another with stagger wheels is up to your preference. Every new one I see here is the SPM, and I would hate to have to do without it. Get one and it will be the best purchase you've ever made!


Just interested in the SPM performance with the straight axle. There is a SPM dealer close by and from what I can tell SPM has the best price on a new dolly with hyd.


----------



## tom-ky (May 30, 2011)

No dealer close has a Krone, maybe 75 miles away. That concerns me about parts when needed. They are about $2,000 more than Kuhn or Kubota.


----------



## Tim/South (Dec 12, 2011)

I do not use a caddy. For me the ease of hooking up to the three point hitch gives Krone an upper leg when selecting a disc mower. I can back up and connect by myself very easily.

I still run a Kuhn on a second tractor some times when someone else me helps cut. It has been a good mower. Some times it is the most contrary piece of equipment I have ever tried to attach. Would make a preacher cuss.


----------



## somedevildawg (Jun 20, 2011)

tom-ky said:


> No dealer close has a Krone, maybe 75 miles away. That concerns me about parts when needed. They are about $2,000 more than Kuhn or Kubota.


Wouldn't worry too much about that.....75 mile is not too far, probably won't have problems with it anyway. My dealer is about 80 miles but they ship same day or I drive over....


----------



## rajela (Feb 15, 2014)

What makes a Krone any easier to hook up. I have never had any real problems hooking up the Kuhn.


----------



## RockmartGA (Jun 29, 2011)

I've owned Vicon in the past. Currently run a Kuhn.

I really, really liked the three blade cutter head on the Vicon. I think it allows you to "grab an extra gear" when cutting.

The quality of the Kuhn is well known. The only issue I had with Kuhn has been mentioned earlier - if a bearing goes out on the spindle, they require you to buy the entire spindle assembly instead of just the bearing. There is a workaround, I blogged earlier about this topic and how I finally found a wheel bearing for a Peugeot from Rock Auto that would work: http://www.haytalk.com/forums/topic/23045-kuhn-grrrrrrrrr/?hl=%2Bkuhn+%2Bbearing

So, back to the original topic, if Kubota is marketing a rebadged Vicon as their own, I think that would alleviate some of the dealer/parts availability issues that Vicon had in the past. Vicon is a very good mower, perhaps not as heavy duty as some of the others.


----------



## somedevildawg (Jun 20, 2011)

rajela said:


> What makes a Krone any easier to hook up. I have never had any real problems hooking up the Kuhn.


The 3 pt arms hook up at the same height.....or the mowers sit flat, not cocked to one side like the kuhn and NH do. My claas is the same way as the krone, much easier to hook to than the kuhn, course with the caddy, my kuhn is the easiest to hook to....


----------



## rajela (Feb 15, 2014)

somedevildawg said:


> The 3 pt arms hook up at the same height.....or the mowers sit flat, not cocked to one side like the kuhn and NH do. My claas is the same way as the krone, much easier to hook to than the kuhn, course with the caddy, my kuhn is the easiest to hook to....


My Kuhn sets level as long as I set it on level ground and have the parking arm in the right position.


----------



## somedevildawg (Jun 20, 2011)

Mine don't nor do any I have seen, one side sits higher.....not a lot but enuf to be a pita, claas sits dead level, guessing krone does too....


----------



## rajela (Feb 15, 2014)

My krone doesn't really set level but I can move it up and down by hand if the tension on the spring is set right.


----------



## TJH (Mar 23, 2014)

If I had to describe the performance in one word it would be outstanding. The mower cuts better than it ever did on the 3 point. It will cross humps and dips and never miss nothing. Like I said I can't compare it with the stagger wheel as I've never used one.


----------



## Tim/South (Dec 12, 2011)

rajela said:


> My krone doesn't really set level but I can move it up and down by hand if the tension on the spring is set right.


Does it not sit level with the back spring disconnected?

I have a friend who was disconnecting both springs and complained about it being hard to hook up.


----------



## rajela (Feb 15, 2014)

Tim/South said:


> Does it not sit level with the back spring disconnected?
> 
> I have a friend who was disconnecting both springs and complained about it being hard to hook up.


I don't disconnect any springs just unhook it. The 3 points hitch just floats. I can raise or lower it just by pushing down or pulling up on it.


----------



## Tim/South (Dec 12, 2011)

My manual says to disconnect the back spring to make it level. Never tried it with the spring connected.


----------



## Lewis Ranch (Jul 15, 2013)

My kuhns never sat level unhooked, hated them.


----------



## tom-ky (May 30, 2011)

The Kuhns I looked at the hitch looked pretty level on the lot. The new cheaper Kuhn was the only one I saw that was not level.

Priced a Krone $12,500 a little over $3000 more than Kuhn or Kubota, not sure if I can justify it for less than a 100 acres a year. My old baler is not the best and would probably need to be replaced in the next few years. Really hard to justify a new mower period, probably be better off selling the cows and renting the ground out for crops.


----------



## somedevildawg (Jun 20, 2011)

Lewis Ranch said:


> My kuhns never sat level unhooked, hated them.


Me too....thought I was in heaven when I got my caddy, what a difference......bout to sell it and get a moco, probably like that a whole lot more.....


----------



## Lewis Ranch (Jul 15, 2013)

somedevildawg said:


> Me too....thought I was in heaven when I got my caddy, what a difference......bout to sell it and get a moco, probably like that a whole lot more.....


Refer to the other post lol


----------



## rajela (Feb 15, 2014)

Tim/South said:


> My manual says to disconnect the back spring to make it level. Never tried it with the spring connected.


Need pic...Mine was bought used. No manual and will have to look at the springs?


----------



## TJH (Mar 23, 2014)

The key do doing anything with the Krone when you unhook it is to unhook those springs. I've done it both ways and it is so much easier to handle with the springs released. Just takes a few seconds to do it. After I done it the first time with them unhooked, never done it again without unhooking them.


----------



## TJH (Mar 23, 2014)

I don't know which model you have, but on my 283 just remove 2 lynch pins and slide the off. You have to do it in the transport position.


----------



## Hugh (Sep 23, 2013)

I bought a Kubota last September. You can get about $1500 off list price and 0% financing. You need to call around to different dealers. My mover works just fine, but I'm new to haying and have nothing to compare it to.


----------



## rajela (Feb 15, 2014)

I have a 283 but never removed the springs I will have to see how it works.


----------



## Tim/South (Dec 12, 2011)

rajela said:


> I have a 283 but never removed the springs I will have to see how it works.


I do not remove both springs, just the one on the rear. Undo the clip pin, washer and slide it off. There is a little bracket to support the spring when unhooked. It is easier to disconnect when the pressure is off, mower raised up some. I also have the 283.

A friend asked me to show his hired hand what to unhook. They were disconnecting both to the large springs and having trouble getting it hooked back up with one person.


----------



## tom-ky (May 30, 2011)

Saw a Krone 283 setting on a lot today, just walked over and looked at it. The lift pins were setting way off level, is that because the springs were not unhooked?


----------



## Troy Farmer (Jul 31, 2011)

I had a Krone 3 pt. Once I got a system down it was no trouble to hook up. But I aleviated any connection problems when I bought a NH trailed mower this summer.


----------



## krone.1 (Jul 28, 2013)

I would say the springs were still connected, Most of the times the springs are left connected when the unit is assembled. They are usually moved with a forklift at the dealer.

As an FYI.... The short inside spring floats the inside of the cutterbar. It has a lever to adjust the spring pressure. The longer spring(s) (an Am243 has one and the AM283 and AM323 has two) floats the outer end of the cutter bar. The purpose of the 2 sets of springs is to float both ends of the cutterbar. The outer spring(s) has a slotted rod. When you fold the cutterbar, the slots slide up releasing all the spring tension. You can then disconnect the spring for storage, or if you want to adjust the spring tension just thread the adjustment in for more flotation or out for less flotation. During setup, I usually set all the springs with a hand width of threads showing (4.25 inches). This will get you in the ballpark on flotation. If the bar seems a little bouncy on either end, just release a little spring tension. If it seems too tight to the ground, tighten the springs a little. In service school we say 125 to 150 lbs of downpressure. I usually set them to they are a little bouncy and then back the spring off about 2-3 turrns. I prefer to run them on the light side. If the cutterbar doesn't go down quickly after you go over a rise then it is too light. If it feels heavy or the cutterbar is pushing residue, it is too heavy.

For storage, If you have the floation set pretty close you won't have to disconnect a spring on the 243. It will usually set level. If not, disconnect the single outer spring. On a 283 or 323 you will probably need to disconnect the rear outer spring. Just fold the cutterbar, remove the quick pin and lay the spring in the cradle. On all the AM mowers, there is a foot under the inside gearbox that, when set on level ground, will allow the mower to set board flat.

Another thing you can do with the AM mower.....While in the lowered, work position, pull the quick pin on the trip and disconnect the PTO shaft. The raise the mower enough to clear the ground. Go to the end of the cutterbar and swing it around to the back so it is parallel with the tractor. Then you can back it to a narrow shed opening, for example. Or back it onto a lowboy trailer and unhook it without a loader. When you unhook it in this position, the hitch arms will be as level as the ground.


----------



## tom-ky (May 30, 2011)

Thanks, krone.1.


----------



## TJH (Mar 23, 2014)

Krone.1 Can you do this with the R model?


----------



## Tim/South (Dec 12, 2011)

Krone1, Thank you for the tip on moving the cutter bar behind the tractor. Sure helps in finding a place under the shed.


----------



## krone.1 (Jul 28, 2013)

TJH said:


> Krone.1 Can you do this with the R model?


Since the EC and ECR mowers use the "center of gravity" pivot both only use one floation spring. You can release the spring tension on both models. When they are in transport there is a latch that you lift and when the cutterbar is lowered the spring tension is released. You aren't able to swing the cutterbar to the rear as you can on the AM series.


----------



## Thumbtack (Jun 18, 2012)

I have a question, I have a NH TN75F Orchard tractor and it does not have a very wide foot print and I am going to be buying a disk mower this spring. What size mower would you recommend. I farm a very small acreage. Might consider a caddy.


----------



## somedevildawg (Jun 20, 2011)

Thumbtack said:


> I have a question, I have a NH TN75F Orchard tractor and it does not have a very wide foot print and I am going to be buying a disk mower this spring. What size mower would you recommend. I farm a very small acreage. Might consider a caddy.


7-8' working width.....6 "turtles"


----------



## tom-ky (May 30, 2011)

Does the 243S not have a inner skid/shoe like most brands of mowers? I have been looking at the brochure I downloaded and it does not show one. On my old mower the skid was bad about pushing up cut grass if you ran over some. Just made a mess at times. Also noticed it shows a top hat as they call it on the inner disc also, looks like Kuhn may also do that. My old mower only has it on the outer one, why is that?


----------



## Tx Jim (Jun 30, 2014)

Thumbtack said:


> I have a question, I have a NH TN75F Orchard tractor and it does not have a very wide foot print and I am going to be buying a disk mower this spring. What size mower would you recommend. I farm a very small acreage. Might consider a caddy.


I would spring for the caddy and get a 9' cut if it were me. My 64 pto hp tractor(Kubota M7040) handles a 9' on a caddy very well. In fact I did pull the same cutter with a 45 pto hp Kubota M4900.


----------



## krone.1 (Jul 28, 2013)

tom-ky said:


> Does the 243S not have a inner skid/shoe like most brands of mowers? I have been looking at the brochure I downloaded and it does not show one. On my old mower the skid was bad about pushing up cut grass if you ran over some. Just made a mess at times. Also noticed it shows a top hat as they call it on the inner disc also, looks like Kuhn may also do that. My old mower only has it on the outer one, why is that?


Tom, We don't use an inner shoe on any of our 3PH disc mowers. We mount the main drive gearbox *behind* the first disc (drum) instead of at the inner end of the cutterbar. The inner drum brings the cut crop around the gearbox so putting it there gets it out of the crop flow. And, since we use an inside flotation spring, an inner shoe isn't needed. Our gearbox mounting design also allows some other design flexibility. It's not very noticable but we don't have the main pivot points on the gearbox. We have a separate hinge point that bolts to the gearbox. Moving the hinge point inside of the geabox allows the pivot to be closer to the center line of your tractor.

My apologies for making the above sound like a Krone commercial.......

Hope everyone is have a good Christmas Day! We have a nasty flu virus going around Middle Tennessee and I caught it! So if anyone is passing through or visiting this area, take care to avoid it! It is mean!


----------



## TJH (Mar 23, 2014)

No inner shoe is one of the top three things I like about the Krone mowers. The other two are it's heavy build and very few trips to the parts store. You just don't have to work on them much.


----------



## TJH (Mar 23, 2014)

Hope you have a speedy recovery Krone.1 !!


----------



## 3srcattleco (Apr 24, 2014)

I have a NH h6830 10 ft trail mower and new idea 5410s and Vermeer 8040. The new holland cutter bar is good. It has the shock pro hubs. The gear box is junk and new holland has the worst cv joints out there. The gear box is made of light aluminum pop metal. And when it locked up the 1800 dollar cv ball exploded. I've yet to shear a shock pro but makes me feel safer. One of my new ideas is over 20 yrs old. I cover 3 to 4000 acres a year. I don't need a conditioner so I run ten foot mowers. I'm thinking on trading for a Vermeer tm1400.


----------

