# Ih 990



## Northeast Hay (Apr 8, 2010)

Hi Im new here. Ive been mowing about 20 ac for 12 or so years and mowed other places for farmers. Ive run sickle bars and disc bars and disc bines. Last year I bought a 990 mower conditioner. Payed to much for it then put twice what I payed for it into it. It seemed to work well last year despite the soping wet conditions we had. My question, do you like them , hate them, any quirks. Also can you switch from rivits to bolts on the bar. And it looks like you can get sections with different number of teeth and under or over serated. Why would one want to ? I sure do miss the disc mowers. Any responce good bad or other will be apreachieted. Thanks


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## Edster (Feb 23, 2010)

I just bought one. So not sure what any of the good or bad points are going to be. I'll be watching this one to see what everyone thinks.


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## Ridgerunner (Jul 10, 2009)

I also have the same questions as yourself. This winter, I purchased a CaseIH 1490 haybine. Very similar to the 990 except wider.

I purchased new sections. I bought the ones with a single point and under serrated. No particular reason, that was just what it the previous owner had used.

The original rivets were 1/4" in diameter on the drive end (where it is three overlapping bars), while the remainder were slightly smaller. I purchased an operators manual and looked up the parts manual on the internet. I ordered the correct rivets, but the dealer sent all 1/4" ones. So, I drilled out the holes in the bar to match and now all of my rivets are 1/4".

There are also different types of guards. I have the standard type (I can't remember what they are called).

I always used a disc mower and never used a haybine. So, this year will be a learning experience.


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## Ridgerunner (Jul 10, 2009)

Northeast Hay,

What type of rollers does your 990 use? My has the laminated rubber type. Looks like they made them from old tire sidewalls. They do not seem to have worn much and appear to be in good condition.

I am not sure how much gap to set between them or how much tension to use. Any suggestions?


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## Northeast Hay (Apr 8, 2010)

Mine was a mess when I got it. I realy diddnt know what I was looking at or how to look at it. Once I got it home I found a lot wrong with it. I bought the owner manual for it and comenced spending money. Mine has one steel and one rubber the same rubber you discribe. The roll gap on mine is 1/32 a foot from the two endsand spring tention is .030 between the coils in the cut posision. It had a lot of new guards and sections but you could barley move the cutter bare so I bought a hole new barand ended up shimming some of the guards so everything moved free and smooth. I put all new wear plates and 6 high arch clips and also used the low arch clips so I have far more clips than the book calls for.
I answered some of my own questions yesterday when I replaced a few sections. I bought both rivits and bolts. The bolts will work but only with the high arch clips, so Iriveted the ones that are under the low arch clips and bolted one to try it on the left side. I do question wheather the bolt dia. is to small for that bar.
The machine seemed to do well last year when I mower dry hay but we had a wet year and it was slow going in the wet stuff. I made a lot of mulch couldent get it dry
Old gentelmen hobby farmer had all new equitment with disc mower and he died so I had to buy my own so this is a step backward for me. This mower I never hear a rock the disc you heard every one but changing blades was easy. I hope this helps .


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## Northeast Hay (Apr 8, 2010)

I gather the differnt guards are for diffrent conditions, rocky, wet , diffrent type of grasses.


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## Ridgerunner (Jul 10, 2009)

Mine has a low arch clip on every other guard. It has one high arch clip on the drive end.

What happens when the hay is too wet? Does it bunch up on the cutter bar? Does it wrap around the conditioning rollers?


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## Northeast Hay (Apr 8, 2010)

If my memory serves me right I only pluged the rolls and cutterbar a few times, It was the real that was pluging a lot. Toward the end I washolding the machine up about 10 inches with the hyd piston and mowing a swath then put it on the ground and mow the same one again when I did that things went much better


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## Edster (Feb 23, 2010)

Northeast Hay said:


> If my memory serves me right I only pluged the rolls and cutterbar a few times, It was the real that was pluging a lot. Toward the end I washolding the machine up about 10 inches with the hyd piston and mowing a swath then put it on the ground and mow the same one again when I did that things went much better


Northeast, that might be a reel speed issue. That can be changed by adding or removing shims from the reel pully. Or it just might be too much material in front of the machine.


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## Northeast Hay (Apr 8, 2010)

Edster, I tuough of doing that early in the season it wasnt plugging in the dryer hay but seemed like a little faster would be better. I had all the trouble on the last field I didm it was real tall thick and wet


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## Edster (Feb 23, 2010)

That will do it. I would see how it goes this year before you did any adjusting. I am a firm believer in If it works don't change a thing.


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## Showcrop (Mar 3, 2010)

Hey northeast. I used to drive through Bethlehem a lot. I don't remember ever seeing any one doing hay there. Which road are you on?


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## Edster (Feb 23, 2010)

Northeast,
Have you has to replace the belts on your mower? Just wonderingif you had, did you buy them from Case/IH or did you find after market. I'm looking for cross reference numbers. If I can't find them I'll have to take the belts off and bring them over to a local guy. They do bearings and belts and their prices are waaaaaaaaaaaaay better than Case/IH. Let me know.


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## Northeast Hay (Apr 8, 2010)

Showcrop, up on south road there are 5 small fields. Im going to mow some on lewis hill rd this year too.


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## Northeast Hay (Apr 8, 2010)

Edster, yes I replaced them. I went to napa and we matched them up. If you need some numbers let me know Ill see if I can find them or get them off the belts.
We got a foot of snow last night


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## Edster (Feb 23, 2010)

A foot that's all. Guess you won't be mowing fields any time soon. Just rain at my place, but cold. If you could find the numbers for the belts it would be great. I don't mind spending money on parts just don't like the feeling of the knife in my back when I pay for them.


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## Edster (Feb 23, 2010)

Well now I have a pair. Just bought another 990. I have been looking for a parts machine. Landed it today, this one is a 9 footer, in working order. Not sure if I am gonna ust it for parts or just use it.


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## Northeast Hay (Apr 8, 2010)

If you still need the numbers let me know. I put the mower outside about a week agoand its covered in snow now. If there not on the belts I can look in my uneak filing system for them. ( a big cardboard box) I save all the slips its just a matter of where. There is a boan yard in Pa I got some gears from. Same thing I have the contact info on the desk here somwhere.
So what do you know about killing off wild lupin? There is another 20 ac or so I can mow but it is full of lupin. Ill probaly post it else where


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## Edster (Feb 23, 2010)

Yes I still need the numbers, if you don't mind. Not in any hurry just want to have spares on the shelf. No idea how to get rid of lipine. I do know that they have a very deep tap root system, which I imagine is qite hard to get rid of.


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## Northeast Hay (Apr 8, 2010)

cutter bar belt C90 50, the real belt is not napa brand but bought it throu them and it was a lot less money Pix-X' set C83. As I remember the pix run small I think we mesured my old one at 80 and ordedit but when it came it was 3 inches smaller than mine so we went with the 83. I diddnt replace the main drive belt but would have to go to ih for it. The chain is #60 rollar chain the book tells how many links to cut and use an offset and a master link


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## Edster (Feb 23, 2010)

Thanks Northeast.


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