# Deere 2130



## TessiersFarm (Aug 30, 2009)

Just picked up a JD 2130 from another local farm for $4k. Runs good, I drove it home. Steering was a little sloppy, I pulled out the front steering bolster, and it is at a machine shop being bored and bushed. Tires OK, nothing special but functional. Woods 195 Loader, Independent PTO. I have a 3020 that seams comparable, if this one is as good as that one I will be some pleased. Any advice, opinion or experience would be appreciated. Thanks!


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## Vol (Jul 5, 2009)

Nice! Nice buy.

Regards, Mike


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## deadmoose (Oct 30, 2011)

Looks like it. I see it has 66 PTO HP. With a loader looks like it can take care of many chores.

Nice find.


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## Wethay (Jul 17, 2015)

Don't know about the 30 series, we broke a few spindles when we used the loader on our 2155. In all fairness it was overloaded often and used to push with. I found new aftermarket spindles at the salvage yard that worked as good, and were more affordable. I did find out on ours that it had been offered with a heavier front end for loader work. The heavier front consisted of different knees and heavier spindles.

As you most likely know, it's better to replace the hydraulic pump coupler bushings that to wait until you're sure it needs them and have to buy more parts. If you ever have the coupler off of the hydraulic pump put it back with some never seize. If the front end doesn't want to take grease well push the loader down and get the weight.


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## Vol (Jul 5, 2009)

4 rib tires help take some load off the front end when aired up a touch on the soft side.

Regards, Mike


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## Tx Jim (Jun 30, 2014)

$4K for 66 pto hp tractor with a FEL sounds like a bargain to me, A good FEL will bring $2K or more down here.


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## somedevildawg (Jun 20, 2011)

U done a days work on that one.......good buy!


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## TessiersFarm (Aug 30, 2009)

Its got rib tires on the front, but I think they are 3 rib. Also it has power steering, or at least power assist of some sort, It steers real easy. It will never see heavy loader work, my general opinion is that farm tractors are not made for loaders. I might get lazy and use it to load a few dry rounds in the field, depending on how it likes the baler, would save moving a piece of equipment on some of my smaller fields. Mostly general farm work, mow, rake ted, chop a little green feed, or spread manure. Thanks for the feedback.


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## Wethay (Jul 17, 2015)

IIRC the pto brake piston will pop out of it's bore if the brake band wears in two. If you lose steering and hydraulics turn on the pto and see if the problem goes away.


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## bool (Mar 14, 2016)

The 2130 is a marvellous tractor. I have had mine for nearly 30 years. I bought it from a doctor, had done only 1272 hours. Of all the tractors I have it is the one I would not sell if I replaced it with a newer one. It is too nice to drive and too handy. Enough size to do real work but small enough to be easy to handle. Really nice to drive, comfortable to ride on and all the controls work smoothly. You can feel the quality of the engineering.

Over the years it has needed only minor work. The only real problem I have had is that the brake band on the pto was broken when I bought it, so the shaft turns slowly when the clutch is disengaged, and fixing it requires splitting the tractor, but it has never worried me so I have never fixed it.

It started to leak oil from the lower 3 point hitch attahcment points. They are mounted on a torsion bar for the lower link draft sensing system, and the oil seals had failed. The service manual says you have to remove one of the axle trumpets to fix it but my local JD specialist had made up some kind of dolly to remove the seals without pulling off the trumpet. The whole job took him about an hour.

Enjoy!

Roger


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## Tx Jim (Jun 30, 2014)

bool said:


> It started to leak oil from the lower 3 point hitch attahcment points. They are mounted on a torsion bar for the lower link draft sensing system, and the oil seals had failed. The service manual says you have to remove one of the axle trumpets to fix it but my local JD specialist had made up some kind of dolly to remove the seals without pulling off the trumpet. The whole job took him about an hour.
> 
> Enjoy!
> 
> Roger


Roger

After viewing 2130 parts catalog the L/D seals appear to be the same as many other JD utility tractors of the same era with no need to remove axle trumpets to replace the seals &/or load control shaft. 2nd photo is list of tractors which share the same load control shaft(L41787)


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## bool (Mar 14, 2016)

That's a long list of models with that shaft and seal set!

Clearly it is possible to replace the seals without removing a trumpet. But my JD 2130 Technical Manual (TM 4272) says you have to remove it. Which manual are you quoting?

Roger


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## Tx Jim (Jun 30, 2014)

I have no utility tractor tech(service) manual. I only have access to JD parts. I haven't seen a 2130 as they were built for sales in other countries besides the USA but ""I see no reason that an axle trumpet"" needs removed to R&R the L/D shaft seals or shaft. Can you scan page in TM that states this fact??

PS: I was employed at a JD dealership from '66-'87 & served as a dealer service manager for over 1/2 of that time.


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## Wethay (Jul 17, 2015)

I don't remember a 2130 specifically, but I also don't remember ever having to remove the rear axle housings to get to the load shaft bushings on any utility tractor.


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## bool (Mar 14, 2016)

Here are the scans. If there is something I have misunderstood let me know.

Roger


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## Tx Jim (Jun 30, 2014)

Thanks for posting scan of TM. That section is pertaining to repair of load control mechanism not just R&R of shaft & seals. One doesn't need to R&R rockshaft housing as outlined in scan to R&R shaft &/or seals.


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## bool (Mar 14, 2016)

The information I scanned is all I had. What more information could I have? I could find nothing in the book about replacing only the seals. My reading of it was that you have to remove the shaft to remove the seals, and you have to remove the lever to remove the shaft, and you have to remove the other stuff including the trumpet to remove the lever. Clearly that is wrong but I had no way to know that. Can you tell me where you learned that you don't have to remove any of that stuff to remove the seals. And how do you remove the seals anyway?

Thanks,

Roger


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## Tx Jim (Jun 30, 2014)

Roger

I was employed by a JD dealer from '66-'87 with the last 12 yrs serving as a dealer service manager which BTW a portion of my employment corresponds to when 2130's were sold new. I will guarantee you that one doesn't need to remove axle housing(trumpet) or rockshaft housing to R&R L/D shaft/seals. Actually seals can be replaced by removing 3 pt draft arms and sliding shaft in on each side far enough to expose seals R&R seals then slide shaft back in place. Before removing shaft one needs to put L/D lever under seat in "D" or "minimum" which ever term applies to that particular tractor model. Seals can be removed from groove with a dental type pick and re-installed with tip of finger. I've noticed JD parts catalogs & tech manuals are worded differently than manuals for tractors built strictly for N. American sales.

Jim


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## bool (Mar 14, 2016)

Thanks for the info, Jim, it's good to know. This sounds like something that was known about but never documented in writing.

My 2130 is German. Were they all? The setting is "D".

And while I am talking to an expert, is it possible to replace the PTO clutch band brake withourt splitting the tractor?

Thanks,

Roger


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## Tx Jim (Jun 30, 2014)

Roger

You're welcome BUT I'm far from an expert.

All 2130's were built in Mannheim,Germany. The pto brake can't be replaced without splitting tractor.

Jim


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