# New Holland 1044 Bale Wagon



## crookedfurrows (Jan 26, 2011)

Thinking about buying a New Holland Bale Wagon. Looking at a 1044, but am worried that not having auto tie will cause stacks that may not hold together when unloaded.


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## Tyler B (Jan 23, 2011)

I wouldn't go without an auto tie. I tried picking without using my auto tie, and the stack flops out sideways as soon as I pulled away. You can tie it manually, but it's alot of off and on the tractor.


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## lfc (Jun 23, 2010)

I have a 1047, which is similar to the 1044 but is SP. You will need to add the tie tiers in by hand - I use two per load. It isn't hard - just jump up on the second table and rearrange the bales - but the biggest issue in my mind is climbing up/down without slipping. I know it sounds simple, but the shiny first table doesn't make a good step, you are always in a hurry, and usually hot and tired which combined can lead to problems.
I think the bigger issue with the 1044/1047 is that the load rack does not dump as far past vertical when unloading, so it is hard to get much lean in the stacks. I use poles to initially support the load, and then once the wagon is out of the way I give the top of the load a careful nudge with the bucket loader to push it back a little. Again, something that you can easily live with but not as convenient as the newer models.
The 1044 is old (late 60's) so some parts might be an issue but so far I've been good with my 1047. You might want to look for a 1033, but the 1033 only holds seven tiers (105 bales) as opposed to eight with the 1044.


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## hay hauler (Feb 6, 2010)

Would say the stack needs to be tied one way or the other. Is this worth around 10k more? I would say so if you are doing a lot of hay... Would think you are looking at around 8k for those models....? Think a 1049/48 starts around 15k...? It is more of a waste of time to try and make a stack stand without tie tiers then it is to just tie them in the frist place.


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## Blue Duck (Jun 4, 2009)

lfc said:


> I think the bigger issue with the 1044/1047 is that the load rack does not dump as far past vertical when unloading, so it is hard to get much lean in the stacks.


My 1044 tips past vertical far enough it has never been a problem. It looks to me like it goes as far as others I have seen. I was making two tie layers by hand until I read in another thread on here about tying big baler twine around two or three layers while on the second table. I made a twine box that mounts on the side and instead of moving bales around to make tie layers I pull some twine out and tie a layer together. I still have to climb up on top of the hay on the second table to get the twine around it but it is faster and a lot easier then moving bales. I did two layers per stack and it worked great last year. Having all the bales one direction is really nice if you use a bale grab loading trucks. Mine was in good mechanical field ready condition with bad paint and I gave $3600 for it a few years ago. It is slower then one with auto tie but well worth every penny if the alternitive is a set a hay hooks!


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## crookedfurrows (Jan 26, 2011)

Thanks for the input. Since I am not as young as I once was
I think the answer for me is a wagon with auto tie.


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## lfc (Jun 23, 2010)

Hmmm, maybe the 1044 is a little different than my 1047. My technique could be off too, as I'm still trying to master the thing. I recently bought a 1033 to have as a spare, so it will be interesting to see if that one works any better for stacking.

I agree though, they are worth a little aggravation for the work they save!


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## hay hauler (Feb 6, 2010)

Sorry was just guessing on the price, But from what i see you will pay at least 18,000 for a 1049, and could get a 1048 for around 11,000 to 14,000... Just depends on the size of bail you want. Don't forget abouth the height of the area you will be stacking....! They all will be different.


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## dbergh (Jun 3, 2010)

Ive owned machines with and without auto tie. 1046 & 1048. Both can work fine but you will need to hand tie at least two tiers on the 1044 to make things stand properly. I got to where I could hand tie from the ground level just by pushing bales around without having to jump up on the 2nd table which is easier and safer. I paid $20,000 for a refurbished 1048 that is in nice shape with straight tables and new paint. $10,000 will be a rough machine that needs some work in our area. Don't know on 1049's as they don't come up very often in my area. Pull types start around $3500 on up to $7500 for nice ones. SP's start around $7500 for 1046's and go up from there depending on condition and model. Auto tie is definitely a time saver but will cost you at least $5K more. Have done the string around the top tier idea and it works well-keeps those top rear bales from popping out once in a while as you raise the load rack all the way up. We tie 4th, 7th and 8th tiers and have virtually no problems with stacks falling. We deliver mostly full loads to customers with a retriever and in some cases I need them to stand alone when we unload so the three tie tiers are well worth the extra time involved in the field. Can't imagine stacks would stand very well for very long with no tie tiers. They would have to be laid over past vertical quite a ways and it seems that either the front or back will blow out mid way up the stack as it goes up and over center. Just my experience. I have a neighbor that ties every other tier on his stacks. Lots of different ways to accomplish the same task-trial and error are your best teachers! Rebuilding collapsed stacks is no fun!


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## jschlaty (Feb 19, 2011)

I was also looking at buying a 1044 and concerned about the auto-tie feature. Also, I am unloading in a pole barn and I have 14'6" to the trusses. The 1044 calls for a 15' unload height. Is there 6" to spare? Or will this be more trouble than looking for a 1033? I like the larger load.


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## hay hauler (Feb 6, 2010)

Might be able to make it work... Will need to raise it between the rafters more than likely ... Any experience with bale wagons? I have just put 6 or 8 bales on the top tier to make it dump in a shorter barn... their are tricks to make most of anything work. Just make sure the table when vertical does not go higher than the rafters/barn roof and you can dump a partial load at the least...

This video might give you a idea of what i am talking about... the stack is shorter than normal because it can not lean on the wall (not built for a wagon). But the second one was much taller... Think 7 or 8 tiers... The load rack was about 4 inches from the rafters...

YouTube - Hay

With regard to my wagon (1049) if i can back in to the barn i can dump a stack of some sort and get out depending on height...


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## Rodney R (Jun 11, 2008)

14'6" will work, but you will have to dump the load between trusses. You will have to move forward at the same speed at which it dumps, but it can be done. We need 17ft on our machine and the sidewalls of our sheds are all 16ft, but the trusses are 7'6" apart, so it works pretty good. A higher shed would be nice, and given the clearance you could add an extra row on the top of the stack with a grabber.

Rodney


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## jschlaty (Feb 19, 2011)

Thanks for all your responses. I would like to run a 1044 as I'm not as young as I use to be and thinking about throwing all those bales this year is no longer fun. My trusses are 2' apart. If I only need 6" more I believe I can straddle the trusses as Rodney says with a full load. They are asking $4500 for the bale wagon and it appears to be all straight and maintained.


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## Rodney R (Jun 11, 2008)

The other thing that can be done, if you want, is to leave the last 3 bales that you would load on the wagon in the field. You'll be shy 3 bales on the load, but you will gain quite a bit of head room when it dumps.

Rodney


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