# Oliver hyd oil getting in trans/rear



## 8350HiTech (Jul 26, 2013)

I got my rolled 1650 running painlessly and found a new problem. I attempted to fill the hydraulic oil reservoir as it didn't show on the stick. I put in 5 gallons and it never touched the stick. Not realizing that 5 gallons is supposed to be the capacity, I put in another bucket. Never did I get oil on the dipstick so it's obviously leaking through almost as fast as I put it in. Is any particular seal the most likely culprit for this? I'm not a fan of exploratory surgery but I'll tear into it blindly.. If I have to.. I guess.


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## snowball (Feb 7, 2015)

HitTec I'am going off of memory from 35 yr ago But I think there is a seal between the trans and the rear end housing that is kinda a problem child on those tractors it's not a hard fix other than you have to split the tractor witch isn't too big of a job


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## Vol (Jul 5, 2009)

Talked with a good neighbor today that owns about a dozen Oliver's and Cockshutt's. I mentioned your dilemma to him and he said if the seal is blown out of the hydraulic pump that the fluid will go straight to the transmission and rear end.

Regards, Mike


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## mlappin (Jun 25, 2009)

Older Olivers the trans and the rearend housing are one assembly. Have never found the need to split an Oliver for any reason unless you're doing a motor transplant and need a different belly pan.

Have never personally worked on a 1650, but very similar to my 1600, pull the housing off the PTO clutch, should have (4) 3/8 bolts from underneath holding that on. Once the housing is off their should be a 3 bolt bearing flange bolted to the rear of the transmission/differential housing, remove those three bolts then pull the power shaft out. Once the power shaft is removed pull the transmission cover, the hydraulic pump should be under that.

Can't remember exactly how the 1600-1650 was setup up but on the bigger models like the 55 series there is a stamped steel plate that goes between the reared housing and the hydraulic housing that forms the bottom of the hydraulic reservoir. A neighbor had oner of those crack once and it'd lose a gallon or two a week. Never had it happen here though.

All this will make more sense once you start tearing into it.


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## 8350HiTech (Jul 26, 2013)

Thanks, Mike and Marty.

I think the hydraulic pump would make a lot of sense though I'm wondering if a crack is more likely considering this tractor was rolled. The man was using the loader when he rolled it so I would think the pump wouldn't be blown.

OR is the pump more likely because it would have been starved of oil until the engine shut off?

I'm looking for guesses. I know this isn't an exact science.


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## mlappin (Jun 25, 2009)

I'm not real sure how much a replacement pump costs, only ever had to change one in the 1600 and the manager at our local Agco dealer gave me one that had sat on the shelf from a mis order that never got returned


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## 8350HiTech (Jul 26, 2013)

mlappin said:


> I'm not real sure how much a replacement pump costs, only ever had to change one in the 1600 and the manager at our local Agco dealer gave me one that had sat on the shelf from a mis order that never got returned


Google and eBay searches yield pump prices from $5-600. Obviously, I would check if it was repairable first.


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## 8350HiTech (Jul 26, 2013)

Yay, it's three months later and I'm finally back to working on the Oliver! It turns out there is a crack in the pan between reservoirs. Off comes the hydraulic housing... Tomorrow.


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## PaMike (Dec 7, 2013)

So how did you figure out there was a crack with out pulling the housing first? I was thinking you have to lift the top housing off to even see if the pan is cracked...


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## 8350HiTech (Jul 26, 2013)

PaMike said:


> So how did you figure out there was a crack with out pulling the housing first? I was thinking you have to lift the top housing off to even see if the pan is cracked...


Correct. I removed the electra-control or whatever it is that they call the top cover/remote valve body. At that point I guess I was kind of lucky to be able to see the crack underneath everything that's inside the main housing.


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## PaMike (Dec 7, 2013)

Lucky you. Might be a quick easy fix...


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## 8350HiTech (Jul 26, 2013)

PaMike said:


> Lucky you. Might be a quick easy fix...


Still have to lift the housing off. Could be worse could be better. Wengers have the pan for $350 but I'd like to find a cheaper one.


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## PaMike (Dec 7, 2013)

Farmersville Equipment still has some stuff. Might be worth leaving a message for Tom.


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## mlappin (Jun 25, 2009)

8350HiTech said:


> Still have to lift the housing off. Could be worse could be better. Wengers have the pan for $350 but I'd like to find a cheaper one.


They can be welded, a neighbor had a cracked one and had the local TIG wizard fix it.


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## 8350HiTech (Jul 26, 2013)

mlappin said:


> They can be welded, a neighbor had a cracked one and had the local TIG wizard fix it.


That is definitely a possibility. I wanted to check on price of a good one first to see if it would be worth welding it. The crack is sprung open enough that it will be a bit if a trick but I'll show it to someone who's a better welder than I am before a drop $350 on a used one.


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## PaMike (Dec 7, 2013)

Didn't even think of that. Yeah, a good tig guy could fix it. I am not even a "good" TIG guy and I can well 18-16 ga with no problem...

A lot of the stainless dairy stuff is repaired with TIG....find an Amish shop out your way and they should get you fixed up...


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## 8350HiTech (Jul 26, 2013)

I got it out and it appears very weldable. Already made plans with a friend to weld it tomorrow. Only trouble is that it appears the crack came from an impact from underneath, presumably when this tractor was rolled on its side. Problem is nothing seems loose to have impacted it. Maybe I'll just hope something flexed...


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## 8350HiTech (Jul 26, 2013)

I found a few pieces of the draft control loose in the rear. I'm guessing the jam nuts had been off of the spring prior to it being rolled. Rolling it would have allowed the guide and retainer to slide off and get pushed into the pan by a gear. I think. I doubt I can find the jam nuts if they're under the bull gears or the spring plate but they should be harmless in there. (Famous last words...)


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## mlappin (Jun 25, 2009)

While you have the top off it, find your transmission lube pump, if it uses a chain to drive the pump go ahead and replace it while apart.

Oliver also had an update kit for the lube system, a pressure switch that goes in line so if you ever loose that chain the red light in the dash will light.

Not unusual once good and warm for that light to illuminate at a dead idle. Should never be on at fast idle and up or you have a problem.

Can't recall if your 1650 has a direct drive lube pump or the chain though, so take a look while it's apart.


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## 8350HiTech (Jul 26, 2013)

Thanks. I'll definitely check that out tomorrow. I wouldn't want to have to tear that thing apart again if I could avoid it. On the other hand, I'm thinking the easiest way to avoid it might be to get something 25-30 years newer...


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## Redbaler (Jun 10, 2011)

Had the same problem with a 1850 a few years ago. By the time I had it all fixed up i had more in it than it was worth.


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## 8350HiTech (Jul 26, 2013)

Redbaler said:


> Had the same problem with a 1850 a few years ago. By the time I had it all fixed up i had more in it than it was worth.


I finished mine about a week ago. It cost me very little because I did the work myself and was able to get my oil pan welded. If someone had to pay shop labor and buy anything other than gaskets and oil, I'm sure the bill would leave the owner upside down on value.

By the way, getting mine finished turned into a real cluster. After I got my pan welded I reassembled the whole thing with new gaskets and new oil. Came back the next day and some of the hyd oil was in the rear again. Took it all back apart and cleaned everything. Put it all back together again with the gaskets and silicone and new bolts. This time it held. In the process of remounting the hydraulic remote splitter on the fender something shorted in the dash and there was a brief fire. Put out the fire. Took the splitter off the tractor because I don't really need it. Started tractor and before I can drive it out of the shop a hose leading to one of the remotes split and it pumped most of the oil onto the floor. (Also discovered we were out of oil absorbent) Got a new hose and still more new oil. This time it finally worked. Took it out today to load some bales. It did a pretty good job for the first 13 bales until a pipe fitting on one of the boom cylinders cracked and started to blow the oil again... Sheesh.

At least I only have 3k in it. Way more time than I ever wanted though. The pipe fitting won't cost much.


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## PaMike (Dec 7, 2013)

Any idea why the pan didnt hold oil the first time?? Think the bolts were tight enought? Its not a real complex seal job, just kinda a pain...


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## 8350HiTech (Jul 26, 2013)

PaMike said:


> Any idea why the pan didnt hold oil the first time?? Think the bolts were tight enought? Its not a real complex seal job, just kinda a pain...


Yeah. I was baffled. It had to be not tight enough across the front because there's nowhere else for it to drain through once the pan is welded. I tried tightening them and popped one so at that point I figured I'd tear it all back apart and start over with new bolts in case I had weakened any others.


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