# What to do with hay fields at season's end?



## JD3430 (Jan 1, 2012)

Is it wise to lime now (f so, should it be pellitized/time release?)
What other maintenance should be considered for northeast hay fields?
Someone had mentioned adding calcium, how/when is this done?


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## Canderson012 (Jan 17, 2012)

I know down in GA most people don't lime till January to March.


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## Vol (Jul 5, 2009)

I like to put down agricultural lime in August or September....before the fall rains start....less damage on the fields and the rains help get it in the ground. I never have used pelleted. I would do it asap.

Regards, Mike


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## Tim/South (Dec 12, 2011)

We always limed in the fall. It takes a while for lime to work it's way into the soil.
We use a lot of Basic Slag here. It is a by product of the steel industry and ranges from 60% to 80% lime. Since Basic Slag will green up a field where lime will not, we have begun waiting until spring to spread it.

If I ever sub soil a field I will do it in the fall. Usually as soon as I can after the last cutting.


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## somedevildawg (Jun 20, 2011)

Doing mine in November, usually 1/2 to 1 ton per acre depending on soil test, certain sandy soil here.


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## ANewman (Sep 20, 2012)

JD3430 said:


> Is it wise to lime now (f so, should it be pellitized/time release?)
> What other maintenance should be considered for northeast hay fields?
> Someone had mentioned adding calcium, how/when is this done?


If I remember correctly lime/ limestone is mostly calcium. how fast it works can depend on particle size. Most folks in my area apply it in the fall.


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## mlappin (Jun 25, 2009)

You can get hi cal or hi mag lime, run soil tests and see what's recommended.


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## rjmoses (Apr 4, 2010)

Liming in the fall works best here unless you are incorporating the lime into the soil by discing after liming (preferred).

Top-dressed lime, like potash and phosphates, migrate slowly through the soils at a rate of about 1/8-1/4 inch per year. Putting it on in the fall helps accelerate this movement with the freeze/thaw cycles opening up the ground and transporting it deeper. Slower moisture application from fall rains and winter snows allows it to "soak" into the ground rather than being carried off by the heavier spring/summer rains. Obviously, finer particles will go to work faster than a coarser materials.

When I prepare a field for new planting, I apply my lime and fertilizer first, then disc it 2-4 passes to spread in thoroughly throughout the top 6-10". I usually try to apply 1/2 again the rate indicated by soil tests because these guys need time to get to work and I want my plants to have deep, solid roots.

Ralph


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## slowzuki (Mar 8, 2011)

This might be a good thread for this, I've got 60 tons of wood ash coming this fall that has roughly equivalent neutralizing value to lime but also has some potash in it. I'm trying to find a lime spreader to spread it with as all I have is a manure spreader or 1.5 ton capacity vicon wig-wag spreader. I'm told incorperating the ash with manure makes it easy to spread via manure spreader but it takes a long time. My vicon doesn't have the agitator so I'm guessing it will bridge like crazy.

There is an old drop spreader in the rock pile but I'm told they bridge badly too. Anyone have experience?


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## endrow (Dec 15, 2011)

Could you tell us what the ph of the field is ,, Lime is a long term investment if I may only have the field for one year I would not dump 2 tons p/a on it But I would spread some for next season asap


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## JD3430 (Jan 1, 2012)

Thanks for the replies.
All my ph tests came back "decent", but still in need of lime. Typical is 6.0-6.5
Now I need to figure out the most economical way to apply PKN and lime.

I will have some time on my hands. I am seriously thinking of buying a few pallets of slow release lime and a 3pt hitch mounted cone spreader to save money and spreading it myself.


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## brandenburgcattle42 (Sep 6, 2012)

Like someone said above lime depends on size of the particle on how fast it will work. We have access to other lime than just quarry lime. Witch typically has larger particals. I use dry limex witch is a by product of water treatment and it is like powder, we can also get liquid limex which is liquid and sprayed on and goes to work instantly. My agronomist told me putting dry regular dry lime on is a waste if you are not gonna incorperate in and get it down to the root zone.i had to put 5 ton to the acre on one of my new fields and we molboard plowed that in just to bury it. Look to see if anyone close to you does liquid lime ours come from a water treatment plant in town. It looks like they painted your field white


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## rjmoses (Apr 4, 2010)

I tried spreading a little lime with my 3pt broadcast spread a while back--didn't work! The lime had enough moisture in it that it packed up and would bridge--kept having to get out and run a stick down through it to break the bridge. Real PITA!. Might have worked if the lime had been bone dry.

Ralph


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## slowzuki (Mar 8, 2011)

Not a waste but takes several years to get effect unless powdered.



brandenburgcattle42 said:


> My agronomist told me putting dry regular dry lime on is a waste if you are not gonna incorperate in and get it down to the root zone.


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## vhaby (Dec 30, 2009)

JD3430 said:


> Thanks for the replies.
> I am seriously thinking of buying a few pallets of slow release lime and a 3pt hitch mounted cone spreader to save money and spreading it myself.


Bagged limestone likely will easily pass through a cone spreader because it should be a dry material. Be advised however, that limestone is crushed rock so these bags will be heavy. In addition, some of what you call slow-release lime may actually be no-release lime. Research has shown that limestone rock particles larger than 8 - 10 mesh (holes per inch in a screen) essentually are non reactive in acid soil even over the long term. Particles in the 8 - 20-mesh range are considered to be only about 20% effective for neutralizing soil acidity. Also, any fines in the dry material will blow in the wind so your spreading pattern may not be what you expect it to be. In Texas, limestone that is sufficiently fine that more than 95% passes a 60-mesh screen is commercially spread purposely containing 7 - 9% moisture to allow spreading it in a uniform pattern.


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## mlappin (Jun 25, 2009)

I'd talk to a local co-op and see if I they had any lime spreaders for rent. Most of the time though we just pay someone to do the spreading. Spreading lime correctly seems to be part science and part art. We also seem to be just busy enough that if we think we actually have time to be spreading it ourselves, most likely something else isn't getting done.

Co-ops lime spreader if they have it would be like a heavy duty fertilizer spreader. A few people have their own around here, for spreading fertilizer you leave the baffle in over the floor web, for lime you take the baffle out.


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## NDVA HAYMAN (Nov 24, 2009)

I would not waste my time or money buying bagged lime. It is a messy, dusty PITA job. Buy it and have it spread. It's much cheaper. It seems that your ph is pretty good for around here. Since lime is slow acting, I would have 1 ton put down and no more. I apply lime anytime I can get on the field but mainly in the fall for the reasons stated above. Mike


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## Tim/South (Dec 12, 2011)

The bagged palletized lime here is very expensive. Mostly sold to deer hunting clubs.

I buy lime or basic slag in the bulk, hauled here in a tri axel.
Until this this year I could rent a lime buggy for $20 per day. I would have the material dumped at the field edge. Load it with a tractor or BobCat. Abuse of the buggy has negated that deal. I now pay $6 per ton to have it spread with me loading.
Trucking cost me $125 for 24 tons. The lime or basic slag is $10 per ton. Spreading is $6.
I donate my time and equipment.
If I was only doing a few tons I would be better off to buy the package deal from one of the Ag stores.
I usually use 100 tons of basic slag per year.


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## slowzuki (Mar 8, 2011)

Wow. My cost is 46$. Per ton trucked to site in triaxles. Rental of the spreader is 4$ per ton. I'm paying about 27$ / ton trucking on the ash.



Tim/South said:


> negated that deal. I now pay $6 per ton to have it spread with me loading.
> Trucking cost me $125 for 24 tons. The lime or basic slag is $10 per ton. Spreading is $6.


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## brandenburgcattle42 (Sep 6, 2012)

slowzuki said:


> Not a waste but takes several years to get effect unless powdered.


Ya that's what we get the powdered lime. The real gritty lime would not be best for this type of application.


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## brandenburgcattle42 (Sep 6, 2012)

We pay $15 per ton if we haul it, they spread and load and $20 per ton if they haul it. And that is dry powdered lime.


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## brandenburgcattle42 (Sep 6, 2012)

We pay $15 per ton if we haul it, they spread and load and $20 per ton if they haul it. And that is dry powdered lime.


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## jdhayboy (Aug 20, 2010)

Now is the time for me! Our fields are actually in good enough shape to not need any right now. But it was a good year and we use mostly a sulphate blend of fertilizer which lowers the ph more than other blends. 
The hayfield is just like the ol cow, better and cheaper to keep it maintained than it is to try to bring it back from poor condition.


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## somedevildawg (Jun 20, 2011)

Agree with above, the last thing I do is lime for the year, in between building new barns, getting parade float ready, Santa, and hunting!


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## JD3430 (Jan 1, 2012)

Santa???
Bite your tongue. Don't you know the new PC name is "Winter Celebration" ?


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## Mike120 (May 4, 2009)

Yep....it's lime time. I only had one field that needed it and I had it spread at 2 ton/acre for $42/ton.


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## whitmerlegacyfarm (Aug 26, 2011)

Yep that's what it cost me for 10 ton. They charge 42.50/ton delivered and spread from my local ag supply store. I needed 2 ton/ac ph was 5.2 in the bad fields.


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## wildcat (Oct 20, 2012)

I would also recommend having the lime tested or check with your local extension office to see if they have any information on it. Some lime can have different neutralizing factors and it can be hard to determine if you are applying the correct amount.


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## JD3430 (Jan 1, 2012)

If fields look light green/thin, what is the field telling me?
My gut tells me it's in need of fertilizer, lime, aeration????


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## Vol (Jul 5, 2009)

JD3430 said:


> If fields look light green/thin, what is the field telling me?
> My gut tells me it's in need of fertilizer, lime, aeration????


Sounds like your fields need sulfur.....light green....when you get a sample (Soil or tissue) have them tested for Sulfur....usually adding 25 pounds of sulphur per acre will take care of most deficiencies....not real expensive...about $10 or so per acre....since the clean air act, sulfur in the atmosphere is almost non-existent and folks are beginning to realize that they have to add S occasionally as no more is being dumped on everyone through the atmosphere like in the heavy polluting times of the 60's, 70's and early 80's. In 30 to 60 days you will see a significant difference after adding S. Do it this spring when you put down some Nitrogen.

Regards, Mike


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## JD3430 (Jan 1, 2012)

Vol said:


> Sounds like your fields need sulfur.....light green....when you get a sample (Soil or tissue) have them tested for Sulfur....usually adding 25 pounds of sulphur per acre will take care of most deficiencies....not real expensive...about $10 or so per acre....since the clean air act, sulfur in the atmosphere is almost non-existent and folks are beginning to realize that they have to add S occasionally as no more is being dumped on everyone through the atmosphere like in the heavy polluting times of the 60's, 70's and early 80's. In 30 to 60 days you will see a significant difference after adding S. Do it this spring when you put down some Nitrogen.
> 
> Regards, Mike


Thanks, Mike. Where are the sources? Or is it sold bagged and by the ton?


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## dubltrubl (Jul 19, 2010)

Easiest, but not neccessarily the cheapest way is to use ammonium sulfate for your nitrogen application. I use it when the price allows. Also, you don't need to worry so much about losing the nitrogen if you don't get any rain right away. If I recall correctly, 21% A/S also has 24% sulfur. Makes for a pretty dark green grass and even holds a good color after it's baled. The local co-op around where I live don't carry elemental sulfur alone so if I need sulfur I have to use a fertilizer that includes it.
Steve


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## rjmoses (Apr 4, 2010)

I'm adding about 30 lbs/ac of sulfur every time I fertilize nowadays. We just aren't getting enough from air pollution anymore.

Ralph


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