# Ford 501 sickle mower



## triguy46 (Mar 24, 2009)

I would appreciate any comments you all might have, as I am very new to haying.

So I have this nice 501 and have put a new cutting bar on it and replaced the bent guide teeth. i've been told to bang on the tips with a hammer to adjust the clearance. Is that correct? Also, if I'm to be a-bangin' should the sickle be up or down?
thanks


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## erancher (Jul 29, 2008)

I'm writing a couple article about restoring certain sickle bar mowers but I am not an expert by any means but let me try my best to answer your question. First, keep in mind that the sickle bar cuts like any shear, you have to have contact the entire length of the edge of each blade. Without good contact, you will not get a good cut. Second, a retired gentleman once told me that the biggest issue with a bad cut, particularly after adjustment, is usually not the blades but is most likely the ledger plates. This is especially true with older cutters as owners often ignore the condition of these plates. You might want to check and/or replace the wear plates as well. One final thing; I have never been fortunate enough to have anyone with any experience at all, ever show me how to do this. I read, I listened, I failed and I learned.

If this were a manual, there would be a big warning right here about handling a sickle bar. As you move the bar, the sickle can shift unexpectantly and it cuts whatever is in its path. While cutting, I took down a one inch sapling in seconds...by accident! The sapling shook a few times them laid right down. Although it may go as quickly, a finger will not go as peacefully.

To adjust, you have to loosen the knife holders to take the pressure off the knives. The rock guards should be tight when adjusting. Tap (from my experience, this may not be the best word) the guard up or down to achieve good blade/ledger plate contact. Do not pound on the rock guard lip! Adjust all guards. When you are adjusting either the rock guards or the knife holders, do not have the knives directly on or below them. Try to position the point mid-distance between guards. As far as how you position the bar during adjustment, do it however is easiest for you but keep the knife position in mind. When working near the inner subsole (or shoe), I have my bar raised then I lower it as I work towards the outer shoe, with the bar supported by something besides me. After you have adjusted the rock guards, tighten the knife holder and adjust them to where there is pressure on the knives but not so much that it binds the sickle. It takes practice but don't worry, if you use the mower, you will get ample opportunities to do so.

I want to close by encouraging anyone with sickle bar experience to add to this or correct as needed. My main goal was to get an answer out here. As I said at the start, I am not an expert by any means.

If there are any questions about the terms used above, let me know.


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## triguy46 (Mar 24, 2009)

Thanks for the insightful reply. I reread the manual last night. Today I removed the the knife clips and adjusted (hit them) so they would hold cutter bar against the ledger plates and there was much, much improvement. I've replaced about 1/2 of the knife guards but will look at the ledger plates on the others.

I think your comment on safety is well made and has to be kept in the forefront. A friend, a state legislator here in OK, was killed last year in a mowing accident. Very sad.


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