# Round baling corn stalks



## JD3430

Once again I have been asked to RB corn stalks. Same guy asked me last year but we never made a deal and did it. Is this the procedure:
Mow stalks with bush hog set low
Rake stalks into rows
Bale

Now for the questions:
I have a CX-15. It does not have a corn stalk kit on it. Is this a problem? 
Do I need to change my rake? Like set it higher than for hay?
Do I need to change anything on the Baler? Should I add more wraps? Currently set at 2.5/bale.
Are the bales typically heavier than average 15% hay bales (I know it depends on corn stalk moisture, but just an expected average would help)?
How Do I charge for it? He has no hay equipment. Is it kind of like I get the guys corn field cleaned up and I keep all the bales? Or do you typically share bales with him? If yes, how many or what percentage?
Anything else?


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## mlappin

Can't recall, you running a 7060 or 740 yet? If your windguard is anything like mine, don't waste your time with the NH recommended procedure, take that POS out and bale em without it, saves a ton of grief.


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## PaMike

Use a cab tractor...Chop it up fine with flails, bushog or whatever. Set the rake so its not throwing dirt all over the place. Might want to place the windrows at certain spots depending how the combine rutted up the field...round bale it. I often pull the windguard out so I don't plug the pickup. Probably fine with 2.5 wraps if you aren't moving the bales a ton. Corn fodder is tough to get dry this time of year..I hate baling fodder and don't do it with my new baler. Used to do it with the old one...

I don't know about the financials. A lot of variables on that one..


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## JD3430

mlappin said:


> Can't recall, you running a 7060 or 740 yet? If your windguard is anything like mine, don't waste your time with the NH recommended procedure, take that POS out and bale em without it, saves a ton of grief.


BR7060 sileage special
When you say windgaurd, you mean the long tines behind/above pickup head?


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## mlappin

JD3430 said:


> BR7060 sileage special
> When you say windgaurd, you mean the long tines behind/above pickup head?


Yep, yours might be different than mine. Mine is sh*t.

Heres mine, part 22, my NH644 had a much better windguard.

https://partstore.agriculture.newholland.com/us/parts-search.html?csid=2307bbd36819ec8bcc8cd8604e5850fb&sl=EN&currency=#epc::mr68230ar698440


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## 8350HiTech

Considering the current straw/bedding market, I'd rather get paid for the job and let him keep the bales.


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## endrow

If you have something better to do to create income I'd let it go it's generally hard on equipment, but if you do do it the key as I said before is not to rake up a lot of ground. I know if I look at the fields and would determine the ground had been tilled prior to corn planting and maybe the person didn't use a packer on the tillage tool and the ground still looks a little loose and uneven, I would walk away from the job


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## JD3430

mlappin said:


> Yep, yours might be different than mine. Mine is sh*t.
> Heres mine, part 22, my NH644 had a much better windguard.
> https://partstore.agriculture.newholland.com/us/parts-search.html?csid=2307bbd36819ec8bcc8cd8604e5850fb&sl=EN&currency=#epc::mr68230ar698440


Where mine gives me trouble is the stuffer tines that sit atop the wingaurd. Mine are constantly getting bent and clanging around back there.


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## PaMike

My windguard also sits in the shed. Only use it on real fine 2nd or 3rd cut hay, and even then half the time I don't use it...


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## Gearclash

*I have a CX-15. It does not have a corn stalk kit on it. Is this a problem? *

I don't think so. Don't try see how fine you can shred it. A coarse shred job will accomplish everything you need.

*Do I need to change my rake? Like set it higher than for hay?*

Look at the raking job. Leaving too much behind, set it down. Tine marks in the dirt, set it up.

*Do I need to change anything on the Baler? Should I add more wraps? Currently set at 2.5/bale.*

2.5 turns of quality net will do at a reasonable pressure. Assuming a bale chamber width windrow I would back down to 1000 psi and go from there. If your net split you need to add more net, reduce the pressure, or get a better windrow shape. Get your rear wind guard adjusted such that it is up as much as possible. I don't pull mine out. The NH BR series wind guard works fine in DRY stalks.

*Are the bales typically heavier than average 15% hay bales (I know it depends on corn stalk moisture, but just an expected average would help)?*

All else equal dry stalks are probably 25% lighter than hay.

*How Do I charge for it? He has no hay equipment. Is it kind of like I get the guys corn field cleaned up and I keep all the bales? Or do you typically share bales with him? If yes, how many or what percentage?*

HERE the baling alone costs more than the standing stalks are worth. Stalks are worth 40-50 ton baled and delivered here.

*Anything else?*

Don't do it unless you have a good market for the bales. LOL!

Says the guy who just got finished baling about 6000 stalk bales.


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## mlappin

PaMike said:


> My windguard also sits in the shed. Only use it on real fine 2nd or 3rd cut hay, and even then half the time I don't use it...


I need mine, without it the hay interferes with the spray nozzles for the Harvest Tec.


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## mlappin

I tried raising mine as far as I could, still crap.


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## endrow

When we had the 644 had the windgaurd off a lot. But on the BR7060 we need it for the nozzle's and have not ever baled without it


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