# JD 3020 Injector Pump



## GunGeek (Sep 5, 2015)

So I got my JD 3020 on Saturday it is a 1968 diesel, I am going around tightening Hydraulic fittings etc. In doing this I noticed that the injector pump appears to be leaking a bit of diesel from the linkage where it connects to the throttle on the column. Its a pretty steady drip but not flowing. Looking around I can get a reman pump anywhere from $600 to $1365 but there is what looks like an O-ring/seal kit available for about $40. I have never messed with an injector pump but am pretty mechanically inclined, i've rebuilt a couple carbs in the past if that helps at all. I was debating getting the kit but wanted to get some feedback from people and see how hard is it to replace a seal/o-ring on the linkage area? Can you do it without tearing the whole thing down? Is this way over my head? Should I take it to the Shop? Or just leave it be?


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## luke strawwalker (Jul 31, 2014)

I had the same thing happening with our Ford 2310 awhile back... slow but steady drip...

I got the kit, my brother did some searching on the internet and found me some sites with a breakdown drawing of the pump top cover, and I gingerly took the four screws out, disconnected the spring-loaded linkage from the linkage going down into the governor, took the cover into the workbench, and disassembled it, replaced the O-ring and gasket, and then took it back out, gingerly reconnected the spring-loaded linkage to the governor linkage, and ran the screws back in and tightened them down-- PRESTO! No more leak, and no problems...

Just have to prime and bleed the pump when you're done.

If the JD pump is anything like it, it shouldn't be too big of a job... Just realize that when you take the cover screws out and lift the cover off, there's spring-loaded linkages in there that are still connected to linkages going down into the governor part of the pump... gently disconnect it and you should be home free...

Later and good luck! OL JR 

PS. I'd definitely do some searching for an exploded view or procedures for the pump before doing it... I wouldn't do it "blind" without having something to refer to...


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## NebTrac (Aug 12, 2014)

If you take the injector lines screws (bolts) out there should be TWO washers. One on the inside of the screw and one on the outside. Don't forget to put them both back. I took a "leaky" line off one time and bronzed it. It was on the engine side of the pump and I didn't see the inside washer when it fell out..

When I put it back it ran great for about 3 seconds then seized the pump up and I ended up getting a re-built one for around $900. Expensive lesson. Good luck.

Troy


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## GunGeek (Sep 5, 2015)

luke strawwalker said:


> Just have to prime and bleed the pump when you're done.


What is the proper way to prime and bleed the pump?


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## luke strawwalker (Jul 31, 2014)

GunGeek said:


> What is the proper way to prime and bleed the pump?


Depends on the pump...

Some have a "priming pump" (little hand pump, or "primer button pump" that you simply pump or push until no more bubbles come out the return line...

Some are gravity fed injection pumps, so you loosen up the bleeder screws (usually at the highest points on the pump) with the fuel tank shutoff valve turned on, and let the diesel work it's way down and displace all the air in the pump... (or filter, or water trap, or all of them-- our Fords have bleed screws on ALL those parts!)

Then when diesel starts dribbling out the bleeder screws with no more bubbles evident, close them up.

If you bleed it right, you shouldn't even have to bleed the injector lines... BUT if the cover goes down far enough for air to get into the injector pump barrels, you might have to... all depends on the pump design. Fords use Lucas pumps and Cavanaugh pumps IIRC... been awhile since I had to work on one, at least the old inline pumps...

The 2310 I mentioned used a distributor type pump, can't recall offhand who made it... it's a 3 cylinder diesel so it's kind of a weird looking little pump compared to the bigger boys... the 5610S's we run now also use four cylinder distributor type injector pumps, but they're different yet. Only problem I've had so far with them is the stupid electric fuel shutoff's that kill the motor-- solenoids are lousy...

The good thing is, if the solenoid won't hold enough for the engine to start or keep running, you can unscrew the solenoid, take the little spring and "steel rod with the pencil eraser" that the solenoid holds up off the hole to allow diesel into the injector barrel to allow the tractor to start or run, and put those parts in the shop, and screw the solenoid back onto the pump... the tractor will then run, but you have to shut it down by either stalling the motor or shutting off the fuel valve under the tank...

The older 5610S had a manual kill lever on the pump, so I simply installed a kill cable like the good old days... works like a champ now... The newer one, well, I've had to replace the solenoid a time or two, since they deleted the kill lever from the pump on the newer tractors...

If in doubt, get an I&T shop manual from TSC or elsewhere and read up on... about the best money you can spend on your tractor IMHO...

Later and good luck! OL JR


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## Tx Jim (Jun 30, 2014)

Lift pump has a handle for pummping. It's located on the RH side 3020 engine block.


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