# Cost to have a 5 strain high tensile fence bulit



## Bob M

We are installing a new 5 strain high tensile fence on a rented farm that is being cost shared by soil conservation. We always build our own fence and not sure how much per foot we should charge. I can figure out our cost, just not sure if we can build cheaper than a professional can. Anyone pay to have installed recently.


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## r82230

I could check with a local guy, but he would want a diagram of shape, how many openings, distance between posts (wood or other) and flat, clear, woods, rolling, swamp, etc. That is just some of the details that might be helpful. Otherwise it would be a definite SWAG (Scientific Wild A$$ Guess) on his part.

Larry


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## stack em up

.


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## BWfarms

If you have a hydraulic pounder, you can most definitely build cheaper than a contractor. Unless your bulk price is a lot higher than the contractor then maybe there's some wiggle. I've seen a guy advertise at about $1 a foot (He ain't hardly feeding himself). If I did my recent project for comparison, I did 4 strands spanning 3500' paid about $2400 for all my materials (granted I had about a dozen posts left over). So I 'saved' myself $1100.



stack em up said:


> I'll second what Larry said. I think the guy who does it here charges $3.75/ft?


Boy $3.75 is steep but I guess I've never asked for quotes. Maybe I will start my own contracting service.


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## Tim/South

Our local Conservation District helps with cross fencing through the EQUIP program. They pay $1.80 per foot.


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## endrow

Talked to the guy that did ours at the KEYSTONE SHOW last week . He said $1.65 per foot plus like ,$50 for each single brace and $90 for a corner ( double brace). He said some discount for volume ...........Grand kids want a small section for goats and a pony. He said woven wire is $4.20.....


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## endrow

Should have said the $1.65 and the bracing prices for are for - posts on 16-foot Center and 5 strand High tensile with 2 wires hot.


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## RuttedField

I could never figure out why woven wire is so expensive compared to 5 strand high-tensile. A roll of it is only $175, and it goes up fast and easy compared to 5 strand in my opinion.

I realize not everyone has a bulldozer, but they are the ticket for putting in posts. I have a bracket I bolt to the side of my dozer. This allows me to drive 6 foot posts. It takes sharpened posts granted, and working in the spring of the year, but hitch the trailer to the back, haul your posts with you and tilt and lower the blade and the weight of the dozer sinks them into the soft earth. Being a dozer it floats over the mud. It is very fast.

For corner posts and gate posts, I can drill them or dig them with a mini-backhoe. 8 feet is higher than I can push in with my dozer.


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## BWfarms

endrow said:


> Should have said the $1.65 and the bracing prices for are for - posts on 16-foot Center and 5 strand High tensile with 2 wires hot.


16' on center for a high tensile fence is way too close. Now a barb wire fence? Yeah I set mine about 16-18' apart. For high tensile I'm anywhere from 20-40' apart. 20' if I'm following a curve and 40' on straight runs.

To clarify, high tensile to me is electric fencing. Now if you're talking that high tensile Gaucho 14 gauge crap, no wonder we all are on different pages.


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## BWfarms

RuttedField said:


> I could never figure out why woven wire is so expensive compared to 5 strand high-tensile. A roll of it is only $175, and it goes up fast and easy compared to 5 strand in my opinion.
> 
> I realize not everyone has a bulldozer, but they are the ticket for putting in posts. I have a bracket I bolt to the side of my dozer. This allows me to drive 6 foot posts. It takes sharpened posts granted, and working in the spring of the year, but hitch the trailer to the back, haul your posts with you and tilt and lower the blade and the weight of the dozer sinks them into the soft earth. Being a dozer it floats over the mud. It is very fast.
> 
> For corner posts and gate posts, I can drill them or dig them with a mini-backhoe. 8 feet is higher than I can push in with my dozer.


Woven wire costs are higher because of the number of posts used because of spacing.


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## RuttedField

Yeah I forgot 5 strand is set at what 32-50 foot centers if I remember correctly. I can't use it as my wooly sheep go right through it.

No doubt about it though, fencing is expensive.


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## atgreene

I've done miles of high tensile, over rough, stonewall strewn terrain. I can put it up quicker and for less money than woven, and it springs back when moose trample through it or trees fall on it. I'm pulling what i have for woven wire out to replace with high tensile.


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## SCtrailrider

Question...

If using T-post & high tension wire & semi flat runs would ya still space the T post 40' apart ??

I am gearing up to do this myself and will use phone poles for corners & about every 200', only going 4 strands tho.... just seems a bit far apart looking at it...

I bought a gas powered driver, love it, no more pounding with the pipe driver for me...

Thanks, Chris


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## endrow

SCtrailrider said:


> Question...
> 
> If using T-post & high tension wire & semi flat runs would ya still space the T post 40' apart ?? We had quite a few fences professionally installed but sometimes we build some with Tpost and I'm wondering what gauge wire do you use on a T post fence and how do you attach the wire to the T post
> 
> I am gearing up to do this myself and will use phone poles for corners & about every 200', only going 4 strands tho.... just seems a bit far apart looking at it...
> 
> I bought a gas powered driver, love it, no more pounding with the pipe driver for me...
> 
> Thanks, Chris


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## endrow

I was wondering what gauge wire you use for T post and how you attach the wire to the T post. We still do some T post fencing from time to time


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## BWfarms

I've spaced temporary lines on rebar 40'-60' when blocking off parts of pasture. Deer will knock those down and wire will ground out on the rebar (different insulators). As far as staying up, it stays up fine.

There are a lot of guys here that will put 12.5 gauge high tensile with t posts and yellow clip insulators spaced about 25' maybe 30'. You will just have to check for grounding frequently. I don't understand their theory unless they don't have a hydraulic driver. The costs savings sure is not there for me. $5.50 per 5"x6.5' wood post compared to $3.50-3.75 for 6' t posts.

I would still make your corners 8 foot wood post, you don't need H braces in the straight run but I would set a wood post every so often. The key is the fence needs flex for wildlife, don't skimp on tension springs.

FYI, TSC has 50% off Zareba fencing supplies.


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## BWfarms

If you use the cheap fi shock or whatever wire, you will have so much trouble with breakage and weak shock over long runs.


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## SCtrailrider

I'm using the heavy gauge stuff, and spring's at the corners..don't remember what gauge right off tho...

I have been spacing them 25' , I use the bottom run as a ground with a few rods around the perimeter, I haven't found a insulator that lasts very long, the ones that have a screw on thing that holds it are easy to replace..

I find used t post every once in a while for around 1.50 each..


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## stack em up

.


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## SCtrailrider

Yea different I guess, no one around here uses wood anymore, they don't last very long in these parts it seems... and they are lots more work to install...

Curious why y'all went away from them ????


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## stack em up

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## BWfarms

stack em up said:


> I assume you're using 12 1/2 ga? Don't waste your money on springs if that's the case. Just another connection to worry about.


We contend with a few more deer and trees, the springs help.



SCtrailrider said:


> Yea different I guess, no one around here uses wood anymore, they don't last very long in these parts it seems... and they are lots more work to install...
> 
> Curious why y'all went away from them ????


Everything boils to preference followed by the ability to build. A hydraulic driver is pretty spendy but affords you the ability to set a firm post. Wood is stouter than t posts and replacing one is no trouble if you own the driver. The hardest part is getting in and out of cab to line up by yourself. Without the use of the driver, you would have to auger every hole and tamp. The t post is less labor intensive option which is why very common.

I don't think twice about t post a barb wire but I wouldn't want to mess with them and high tensile. Grounding issues can be commonplace and insulators are frequently knocked off. Plus I prefer a fence that offers the least amount of maintenance.


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## stack em up

.


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## SCtrailrider

I use the springs, and I don't pull the wire real tight either, the spring gives some if a limb or deer hits it.. yes I replace insulators some... It's only me & the better half, I'm by myself most of the time and do what I can afford as most everyone does... yea, I straighten some post when needed, our low topsoil & heavy red clay and lets don't forget those rocks make it hard to drive wood post in my area.. fella close by tried driving round sharpened wood post and it didn't go well, after busting most due to rocks he went back to metal....

Different areas have different things that work me thinks... I say do what ever works or suits the job..


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## stack em up

.


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## SCtrailrider

Stack I have no doubt it works and works great, I for one don't have the resources and man power to go that route... If my steel post last as long as I do that's all that matters at the moment, if the next owner wants something better they surely can...

It's great to have many options isn't it, great to be in America where we can all sort of "do as we please" isn't it..


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## SCtrailrider

About the only wood post left here are made from Locust or Ceder, and they have been in the ground a long time, and Locust is so hard it's tough to drive nail's in them...


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## stack em up

.


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## SCtrailrider

I know Stack, no worries either way


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## endrow

Snapped a picture of a fence that built 20 years ago. Five strand high-tensile built the way they build them here. covers pretty rough territory ,It is the 27-acre pasture. The picture I took when the snow melts I have often seen that whole fence underwater with a river running like a stream and I have never had to do a thing for it except maybe tighten up a couple of the wires was one of the hand ratchets.


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## wheatridgefarmMD

Bob M said:


> We are installing a new 5 strain high tensile fence on a rented farm that is being cost shared by soil conservation. We always build our own fence and not sure how much per foot we should charge. I can figure out our cost, just not sure if we can build cheaper than a professional can. Anyone pay to have installed recently.


If you were within driving distance of my tractor (only thing I own thats large enough to run postdriver) it would be $6/post to drive and $150 a strand to install and $10/corner. Thats NOT including the costs of materials or posts.


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## deadmoose

wheatridgefarmMD said:


> If you were within driving distance of my tractor (only thing I own thats large enough to run postdriver) it would be $6/post to drive and $150 a strand to install and $10/corner. Thats NOT including the costs of materials or posts.


$150 a strand? No variable with size of fence? 2 acres or 2 square miles?


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## wheatridgefarmMD

deadmoose said:


> $150 a strand? No variable with size of fence? 2 acres or 2 square miles?


It would be dependent on the size of the pasture for sure. Generally speaking of the ones that I have done that is my median price.


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