# HOT Oil



## kansasman (Jul 24, 2011)

HI Guys,
New to this forum, and want to thank everyone in advance for any help. I just bought a 2000 model Case IH RS561A baler. Really like the way it bales. But the oil keeps getting hot. Any ideas?


----------



## Montana Red (Jul 24, 2011)

not familiar with the baler, what oil are you talking about hydro fluid or gear box or?


----------



## kansasman (Jul 24, 2011)

It has its own hydraulic system. And its overheating.


----------



## carcajou (Jan 28, 2011)

If your oil is overheating its likely that you have oil bypassing through a cylinder. A few minutes or bales after you start up, stop and hand check your oil system for an area hotter than the rest. If you find one it will have to be repaired.


----------



## ZekeTheDog (Apr 26, 2010)

Oil does get hot as normal part of the hydraulic process. (I was a hydraulic sales engineer in a previous life - but for plant equipment, not tractors/implements.) Your tractor oil is hot enough to burn you NORMALLY, especially after working hard, and especially in this heat we're having here. Don't know exactly where you're at, but since you call yourself KANSASman, I think it's been hot there too.

Are you sure it's 'overheating' as you said, or is it just HOT from normal use? I suggest you get a laser thermometer and use it to check temperatures. I've seen them for $30-40 at Harbor Freight on sale (almost bought one myself). 100 degrees F over ambient could be considered normal. 100 outside + 100 for hard work = 200 = VERY HOT = SERIOUS BURNS!!!

The oil itself is work rated for viscosity at 212F (100C) commonly. Here's a link to the specs on 1 sythetic as an example... AMSOIL - Synthetic Tractor Hydraulic/Transmission Oil (ATH)

Also remember, the hotter it is, the thinner it is and thusly the more any leaks leak. I'm talking more about internal non-compensated seals or lapped spools. It's also known as 'fluid bypass' and some is normal if your cylinders use 'O' ring seals in their design, or lapped valves. Most cylinders use "C" or "U" seals where they are pressure activated to push the seals against the cylinder wall as the pressure increases. They all do wear out eventually.

carcajou has an excellent recommendation if you're truly overheating. But if you're just getting hot, consult the manufacturer for NORMAL operation temperature limits on both the tractor and baler before tearing apart perfectly good equipment.

If you're just taxing your tractor's hydraulic capacity or cooling capacity, and auxillary cooler and/or resevoir may be needed too.

Good luck.


----------



## rjr1414 (Oct 17, 2010)

I have the same problem with the same baler. Have been told the hydr. oil tank capacity (4.25 gals.) is to small. Has been corrected on later models by using a larger tank. I emailed Agco Hesston just tonight (manufacturer of the Case RS561a and the Hesston 856a) for their help in fixing this problem.
I will try carcajou"s suggeston on checking for hot spots.
Will relay any new info.
Ron.


----------



## kansasman (Jul 24, 2011)

Well carcajau, that's what I found. Bought a temp. gun. And found my top cylinder on right side was bypassing. ( Got alot hotter than the rest. ) Seal kit should be here tomorrow. My case ih dealer said the overheating was somewhat of a problem, even when they're running right. So I'm still going to put an oil cooler on it.


----------



## carcajou (Jan 28, 2011)

i'm glad you found the problem, sounds like a cheap fix.


----------



## kansasman (Jul 24, 2011)

rjr1414 said:


> I have the same problem with the same baler. Have been told the hydr. oil tank capacity (4.25 gals.) is to small. Has been corrected on later models by using a larger tank. I emailed Agco Hesston just tonight (manufacturer of the Case RS561a and the Hesston 856a) for their help in fixing this problem.
> I will try carcajou"s suggeston on checking for hot spots.
> Will relay any new info.
> Ron.


Did you hear anything yet Ron?


----------



## rjr1414 (Oct 17, 2010)

Not a word from Hesston. My dealer says the tank capacity (4.25 gal.) is to small. To upgrade to 10 gal tank (part # 70024632) would cost $550.00. One would think there should be a factory recall if this problem is as common as my dealer says. Talked to a machine shop, he will cut tank in half and lengthen 11" for $200.00. Will have this done this winter, unless some one has better solution. I ordered a temp gun, should be here tomorrow.
Ron


----------



## mlappin (Jun 25, 2009)

rjr1414 said:


> Talked to a machine shop, he will cut tank in half and lengthen 11" for $200.00. Will have this done this winter, unless some one has better solution. I ordered a temp gun, should be here tomorrow.
> Ron


That's what I was going to suggest, $200 sounded high at first until I thought about it some more. Depending on the gauge of the tank it could be a real pita. I won't charge less than $150 to weld a gas tank off heavy trucks and those are thick gauge and easy to weld once properly cleaned.


----------



## ZekeTheDog (Apr 26, 2010)

let me just add that you should change your suction filter (assuming you have one) after 10 hours of running it once you re-assemble. Weld scale and dingleberries may be in the interior of a seamed tank like that, even if he cleans it well. After 10-12 hours, the worst of whatever is in there will probably be in the filter.

Another option is to add "heat fins" to the existing tank for improved themal conduction, which would probably be a seat of the pants plain old SWAG, but it depends on the amount of heat you need to dissipate. Cheap though.

Or plumb in an auxillary cooler if you have electric on the equipment. You can possible find those parts in a scrap yard for an auxillary transmission cooler with electric fan for on or off-road vehicle, or tractor complete with thermal fan. You would need a small pump to move the liquid through the cooler at low pressure if one was not included in the cooler.

Good luck.


----------



## Iowa hay guy (Jul 29, 2010)

just a thought but what about adding an oil cooler to it like an old tranny cooler off of a pickup with a 12 volt fan on it
i dont know the baler but its just a thought


----------



## rjr1414 (Oct 17, 2010)

About adding a cooler, wouldn"t there be a problem with dust and debris hindering air flow? I'm also consider adding 1.5" tubes through the tank, when its in the shop to be lengthened, allowing air flow from front to back. Would need to place holes in front and behind tank aligning with air flow tubes in the baler tin.


----------



## rjr1414 (Oct 17, 2010)

kansasman said:


> Well carcajau, that's what I found. Bought a temp. gun. And found my top cylinder on right side was bypassing. ( Got alot hotter than the rest. ) Seal kit should be here tomorrow. My case ih dealer said the overheating was somewhat of a problem, even when they're running right. So I'm still going to put an oil cooler on it.


Did replacing the seal kit solve hot oil problem,do you twine or net wrap?


----------



## Iowa hay guy (Jul 29, 2010)

i would think it would be just like your radiator 
if you go around your baler every day or every field with a blow gun you could blow the dust out and be just fine not to mention it would give you more oil capacity to a point


----------



## kansasman (Jul 24, 2011)

rjr1414 said:


> Did replacing the seal kit solve hot oil problem,do you twine or net wrap?


Rebuilt 2 cylinders. Helped alot. Going to rebuild 4 more. My local dealer said they had one last summer that they could not keep cool. Said they put an oil cooler off a tractor, ( big tubes, and wide fins ), and fixed problem. So that's what I'm looking for now. Oh, and it's a twine baler.


----------



## rjr1414 (Oct 17, 2010)

I would like to see a pic when you get your cooler installed.


----------



## kansasman (Jul 24, 2011)

Well, finally got it together, and used it yesterday. Baled 23 bales. ( Pretty sad grass. ALOT of lespodeza in it. Should have probably waited, and let it grow, but didn't.) Forgot my temp. gun, so could'nt get an accurate tmp. But I could hold on to my hydraulic fittings, and they were'nt bad at all. Was around 92 degrees out. So, very happy with that part. Have some twine issues. Gonna work on that. Got the coolers on e-bay. $40 apiece. blue fittings, $3 apiece. (e-bay also.) One way valve, on left, $40. Hydraulic lines $345 for the three. ( Wish I'd have went some where else. But he was close, and I drove tractor and baler to him, So he could get them the right length.) Also ended up rebuilding all of my cylinders. That was probably the biggest help. Some were pretty bad.


----------



## Old farmer (Aug 18, 2021)

kansasman said:


> Well, finally got it together, and used it yesterday. Baled 23 bales. ( Pretty sad grass. ALOT of lespodeza in it. Should have probably waited, and let it grow, but didn't.) Forgot my temp. gun, so could'nt get an accurate tmp. But I could hold on to my hydraulic fittings, and they were'nt bad at all. Was around 92 degrees out. So, very happy with that part. Have some twine issues. Gonna work on that. Got the coolers on e-bay. $40 apiece. blue fittings, $3 apiece. (e-bay also.) One way valve, on left, $40. Hydraulic lines $345 for the three. ( Wish I'd have went some where else. But he was close, and I drove tractor and baler to him, So he could get them the right length.) Also ended up rebuilding all of my cylinders. That was probably the biggest help. Some were pretty bad.
> 
> View attachment 29
> 
> ...


Good day I'm trying to find them 2 cooler tubes you put on this baler. I would like to find them for my baler. Can you please assist me with this


----------



## paoutdoorsman (Apr 23, 2016)

Something like this? Looks like there are several options. Just look for one that you can adapt for you need.









Derale Cooling Products 13250 Derale Heat Sink Fluid Coolers | Summit Racing


Free Shipping - Derale Heat Sink Fluid Coolers with qualifying orders of $99. Shop Fluid Coolers at Summit Racing.




www.summitracing.com


----------

