# Storage Shed



## WaterShedRanch (Jan 29, 2012)

It's time to put up a barn for hay and straw storage on my operation. I'm located north central ohio. I'm thinking about a 75'x80' sized pole building with a stone floor. I stack small square bales with a Kuhns grapple and skid loader. I'm would like the long side of the barn to have multiple sliding doors for ease of loading. A three sided shed would be ideal but I like to keep the barn closed to prevent bleaching.

What are you guys using for storage sheds and is there anything I should consider that i'm over looking? What is a base price per sq. foot for building pole style buildings?


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## blueridgehay (Dec 25, 2012)

There is some great ideas and discussion in the Barns, buildings and storage topic on this forum. I like you are a fixin to start a hay barn and i've looked at several opitons. Bout got it narrowed down to what is goin be cheapest option. I'm goin with a all metal building. 40' x 90', works out to 6.94 a sq. ft., I've price every way, fabric, pole barns and this option seems the best.


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## D.C.Cattle Company (Jul 19, 2010)

I live in Central Illinois and just recently put up a building to be used to store hay (round and square bales) I did a 42ftx82ft in size.

I had the main sliding doors installed in middle of each side of the 82ft lenght and made them one single 20ft slider for each side. Keeping them in the center allows me to drive hay racks or round bale trailers through the center and unload on either side.

I also made the building tall enough the I could stack 3 -- 6ftx5ft bales pyramid style and not worry about interferring or hitting the roof rafters.

I put up a Lester Building with some general options for less than $30K turn key.


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## Richardin52 (Aug 14, 2011)

With regard to using stone on the floor. You may be able to stack hay right on the floor if you use stone but I think you will end up having to put your hay on pallets.

Another option that a few on this site have used is putting down hot top. It's a moisture berrier and you will be able to pile hay right on the floor with no moisture problems.

Hope this helps


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## Strikefalcon (Sep 3, 2012)

moobecl said:


> I live in Central Illinois and just recently put up a building to be used to store hay (round and square bales) I did a 42ftx82ft in size.
> 
> I had the main sliding doors installed in middle of each side of the 82ft lenght and made them one single 20ft slider for each side. Keeping them in the center allows me to drive hay racks or round bale trailers through the center and unload on either side.
> 
> ...


I'm assuming that 30k is just for materials and not erected.


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## Teslan (Aug 20, 2011)

We have two Morton buildings. One sliding door on each end that on each end takes up half of that wall from the edge to the middle. Morton certainly isn't the cheapest, but remember you sometimes get what you pay for. In a couple years I plan on buildling a 65X150X18 and I will for sure get a Morton bid, but will get other bids also. But if Morton is only some thousand more then other bids I will go with Morton as I know what I'm getting. We don't have anything on the floor besides old hay and dirt, but due to my location I don't need anything else to keep bottom bales from spoiling. Most likely different where you are.


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## Blue Duck (Jun 4, 2009)

Teslan said:


> Morton certainly isn't the cheapest, but remember you sometimes get what you pay for.


Morton buildings are very well built and they do an excellent job standing behind thier product but the last quote I got from them was ridiculously high.


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## Teslan (Aug 20, 2011)

I guess we have 3 Morton buildings. 2 hay sheds and a tractor/machine shed. About 3 years ago the sales guy came and asked if we wanted to build another 55X125 building like we already had and said it would be cheaper 3 years ago then it was when we had the 55X125 one built in 2000. We didn't need one that size at the time, but we had built a 55X60 tractor barn with insulation and I believe it came out to about $40,000 including the dirt work. They were offering great deals then and the plan was a standard plan with no custom additions. I have no idea what they are doing now. They do have their Country Craft brand that is cheaper.


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## rjmoses (Apr 4, 2010)

When I built my indoor arena, 72x224, I got bids from Morton, Wick and about 6 other companies. I gave all bidders the same specs, door sizes +/-, man doors, wind load 90MPH, etc. I narrowed it down to Morton and Wick Buildings.

I wanted turnkey construction -- bid was to include everything including pad preparation and dirt work.

In looking over the building specs, I decided to go with Wick because there where about 10 items that I liked better in Wick's, e.g., posts where on 8' centers and where 3 laminated and pressure treated 2x12's vs 6' centers and 3 2x6 laminated and pressure treated only to 4' above ground.

Morton came in about $25,000 above Wick and would not include dirt and pad prep. Wick gave me a turnkey bid.

But the real deciding factor was the salesman. He told me what I "needed" and did not listen to what I wanted. He told me what they would do/not do and didn't listen to what I was asking. His attitude was they were the best and new everything about buildings. His attitude cost him the sale.

Ralph


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## Teslan (Aug 20, 2011)

rjmoses said:


> When I built my indoor arena, 72x224, I got bids from Morton, Wick and about 6 other companies. I gave all bidders the same specs, door sizes +/-, man doors, wind load 90MPH, etc. I narrowed it down to Morton and Wick Buildings.
> 
> I wanted turnkey construction -- bid was to include everything including pad preparation and dirt work.
> 
> ...


 I was planning to get a bid from Wick when I we have our next building built. Good to know they are cheaper and maybe better. I liked the Morton Salesman here. We had him him for 3 large buildings and 2 smaller garages. But he retired. Who knows what the new guy is like. Listening is the most important part of being a sales person.


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## D.C.Cattle Company (Jul 19, 2010)

Newbie, $30K for the 82ft X 42ft Lester building was materials plus erection (turn key)


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## weatherman (Dec 5, 2008)

Built a 60x100x14 Dec 2011 for around $48K with some unique features. One of the biggest feature was a 12x48 overhand for the horses. Gable ends have 20ft sliders and a 20 overhead door about 30ft from north end. I got multiple quotes from Morton, Cleary Lester and others when I visited farm science review. I went with an Amish guy out of Indiana saving me $20-25K. My two other barns are Cleary and Wick. I like the Wick over the Cleary.

My only advice is build bigger than what you think you need. My one regret is that I would have like 16ft sides instead of 14ft. I use a grappler to stack hay and I can only get 9 high. Got to be real careful not to hit lights on the nineth row.

I had to build my pad up a bit...about 5-6 ft. on the west side. Moved about 3000 cu ft of dirt. Took about 2ft off the back pasture hill.


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## rjmoses (Apr 4, 2010)

weatherman said:


> My only advice is build bigger than what you think you need. My one regret is that I would have like 16ft sides instead of 14ft. I use a grappler to stack hay and I can only get 9 high. Got to be real careful not to hit lights on the nineth row.


I agree with both points... Build bigger than you think you'll need. And go with 16' walls! 14' is just a little too close for most things nowadays.

Wish I had!

Ralph


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## blueridgehay (Dec 25, 2012)

I have just closed the deal with a all metal building from Star. 40x90x17. Turn key for 27,200. Best price I found. That's with dirt floor and posts on concrete piers. 3 sides enclosed, with 24ft opening on one. I'm insulating top also.


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## slowzuki (Mar 8, 2011)

These prices are unbelievable, I wish we had competitive ag building contractors here. I can't buy the materials for some of the erected prices.


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## wheatridgefarmMD (Sep 14, 2008)

40x80x18 with 2 single slider 20x18 doors and 2 entry doors, gable end posts 4' OC, 12" overhang on eaves with ridge vent and skypanels down both eave sides. $26,000 turnkey


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## Bob M (Feb 11, 2012)

We just built a 96' x 120' by 21' Actually 60x120 x21 with 16' lean toos on each side. 30' sliders in center off one gable end and 16' sliders on lean toos. other gable end closed. both sides have roll up curtains. Rain gutters and under ground piping to plung pool. dirt floor. We have about $100,000 in it. Thinking about laying plastic down over dirt floor and covering with about 4 inches of stone.


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## slowzuki (Mar 8, 2011)

Just the steel in the cheapest finish (galv) would be near 10,000$ for me on that building (the 40x80) from the menonites that are at least 25% cheaper than anyone else.


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## Lazy J (Jul 18, 2008)

We built a 64x100x18 stick built building with a 64x40 concrete floor and 3' concrete walls. We paid just under $75,000 for it, including the gravel and dirt work.


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## endrow (Dec 15, 2011)

Bob M said:


> We just built a 96' x 120' by 21' Actually 60x120 x21 with 16' lean toos on each side. 30' sliders in center off one gable end and 16' sliders on lean toos. other gable end closed. both sides have roll up curtains. Rain gutters and under ground piping to plung pool. dirt floor. We have about $100,000 in it. Thinking about laying plastic down over dirt floor and covering with about 4 inches of stone.


Who built it


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## Vol (Jul 5, 2009)

Bob M said:


> . Thinking about laying plastic down over dirt floor and covering with about 4 inches of stone.


Bob, I have been told to cover the plastic with landscape fabric before covering with gravel and that will help to protect the plastic from stone punctures.

Regards, Mike


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## Bob M (Feb 11, 2012)

Endrow, we bought the materials from Graber in Atglen Pa. and a local guy built it. Lapps barn equipment installed the curtains.


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## Bob M (Feb 11, 2012)

Vol said:


> Bob, I have been told to cover the plastic with landscape fabric before covering with gravel and that will help to protect the plastic from stone punctures.
> 
> Regards, Mike


 Thanks Mike, thats a good idea. Bob


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## slowzuki (Mar 8, 2011)

Some old guys here spread straw over it to do the same thing.


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