# Round Baler Bearing Temperature



## Hayman1 (Jul 6, 2013)

I am new to the round baling business but understand the bearings on the shafts can and do go. I have purchased a JD457SS with 5K through it but have not gotten it from the dealer yet. My question-you can get a remote thermometer to read surface temps. Has anyone used one of these to check bearing life on the main shafts in a RB? Just curious for pm if that would be a workable approach. If so, at what temp would you change the bearing? I understand fire from overheated bearings is a real issue. Thanks, and sorry if this is a dumb question.


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## 8350HiTech (Jul 26, 2013)

Interesting idea. Anything you can do to prevent a baler fire is always a good idea. Probably a little more proactive than baling at night now and then and looking for a glow


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## Colby (Mar 5, 2012)

You can check them with a laser thermometer. The temp., that I do not know


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## Farmerbrown2 (Sep 25, 2018)

Good idea they use temp sticks on rail car axles to see if bearings are out on axles . I have heard of old guys spitting on a bearing to see if it was bad , if it sizzels its to hot hence bad bearing . I would check at what temp. good bearing grease breaks down and go from there.


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## Lewis Ranch (Jul 15, 2013)

I carry an infrared heat gun in my bale tractors, a good cheap investment. I would say on average mine run in the 120 range and sometimes the main roller will get closer to 140 and others around 100. I had got out and checked my bearings this past year and one of them was reading a little hot but I had 5 bales tops to go and decided I could finish with no trouble, 30 seconds later into baling that bearing had done set the hay on fire and it was extinguisher time. Luckily I knew right where my trouble was and was able to save the machine. Remember to always turn up wind if you do have baler trouble as your chances of saving the tractor will be alot better.


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## hog987 (Apr 5, 2011)

I have done this too. Now different bearing and different outside temps affect the bearing temps. The thing to look for is one running higher than average. Most of the time all bearing will be close to the same. If one is different keep an eye on it.


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## JD3430 (Jan 1, 2012)

What I do is run my baler a few dozen bales and look at temps. They run at say 120*.
Then I shoot them again after a few dozen more to see if any spike a lot higher.
I've never seen any bearings get much over the "normal" range. I'm pretty religious about greasing, too.

Maybe there's a book or a chart that can tell you what a dangerously hot temp is......but its probably best to develop your own baseline since almost everyone's situation will be different. 

Laser heat gun is $20-$30 on ebay


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## Tim/South (Dec 12, 2011)

Colby said:


> You can check them with a laser thermometer. The temp., that I do not know


Same here.


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## haybaler101 (Nov 30, 2008)

If you smell smoke, stop. If bearing is blue, it is hot. If flames are present, review insurance coverage and condition of baler and decide whether to extinguish or add chaff. All jokes aside, I have had one bearing failure on the three NH's that I have ran an average of 10,000 each thru.


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## RockmartGA (Jun 29, 2011)

hog987 said:


> The thing to look for is one running higher than average. Most of the time all bearing will be close to the same. If one is different keep an eye on it.


That's probably the best rule of thumb.

I seem to recall a maximum temperature of around 200o F for low speed bearings. Can't place my hands on any literature to substantiate that though.


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## eam77 (Aug 4, 2013)

I have not used a laser gun on bearings, but--- my method is to get off and check temperature with my hands after about 10-12 rolls. The purpose is twofold. First, do I have a bad bearing, or one that is about to fail. Second, a bearing that heats more than others- is an indicator of future problems. A normal and good bearing should 95 to 110 degrees. A bearing that heats up to 120 degrees is probally OK. If the bearing goes 170 degrees or more, quit now, and replace the bearing. A bearing that goes above 120 degrees but 160 degrees or less--- will likely run for today's baling---Keep baling, but check every 10 to 20 rolls----replace before the next bale day.

Also about bearings. If you have a overly warm or noisy bearing, you can grease the sealed (most of them are) bearings with a hypodermic needle, or with a needle attachment for your grease gun. If you can't get the needle under the lip seal, you can drill a hole in the sheet metal part of the bearing seal- no need to close hole. However, for me, if I have to do this, then that bearing will get changed before the next round of hay. But problems, most bearings are covered up with sprockets, etc, and hard to get to.

Bearings. Everybody needs to keep a few bearings on hand at all times-- and some roller chain in every sized used on your baler.

I do now buy generally the cheapest parts available--- and that normally means "Made in China". Reason being, I often find OEM bearings, both factory build and replacement parts, to be made in China/India/Poland/Russia/Etc. If I have a really critical bearing-- I would only use bearings made in USA/Japan/Germany.


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## Lewis Ranch (Jul 15, 2013)

eam77 said:


> Bearings. Everybody needs to keep a few bearings on hand at all times


Great advice, I try to keep 1-2 of each bearing on hand. I also try to keep springs as I break them a lot and links on the kicker arm, seems I go through several of them a week. Anybody else have this problem?


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## mlappin (Jun 25, 2009)

haybaler101 said:


> If you smell smoke, stop. If bearing is blue, it is hot. If flames are present, review insurance coverage and condition of baler and decide whether to extinguish or add chaff. All jokes aside, I have had one bearing failure on the three NH's that I have ran an average of 10,000 each thru.


Thats also a good way to upgrade combines if the old one is over insured. Use the fire extinguisher of coarse, just don't use it on the fire.


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## mlappin (Jun 25, 2009)

No need for remote temperature monitors, blow it off after EVERY use, look for bearings that the seals look funny on, those will be going out shortly. Bearing gets some play in it and the seal shows the wear first.

Personally I've never had a bearing go out on a roller while in use, I have had a few I've changed in the off season for the very reason I posted in the previous paragraph.


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## hog987 (Apr 5, 2011)

Mlappin has a point about the seals. Sometimes if the bearing is cleaned off and in view watch the shaft and bearing. Only the shaft should spin. Sometimes the whole bearing will spin slowly, this means the bearing housing is getting worn. If the seal on the bearing spins slowly than the bearing is not too far from being destroyed.


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## endrow (Dec 15, 2011)

I think the key to avoid fire in round balers is the second hay starts to turn ,move with a purpose . If In fine dry material the longer you turn the bale more chance of fines between belts and other places it should not be at great friction causing heat . I think more bales burned for this reason than bad bearings . When I bale rotary straw on a 105 degree day I drive like a bat ouda hill and stop bale 4" shy of maximum size .


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## NDVA HAYMAN (Nov 24, 2009)

I use an infrared gun also. Seems to me that the temps of the bearings fluctuate with the outside temps. None ever seem to get hot or even very warm. I have never replaced a bearing on a RB. Now that being said, I hope Murphy didn't hear that.


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## Vol (Jul 5, 2009)

NDVA HAYMAN said:


> I have never replaced a bearing on a RB. Now that being said, I hope Murphy didn't hear that.


Me neither.....but I personally know folks that wished they had done so.  Saw one blazing from my backyard late one evening looking down the river valley summer before last. And this fella knows his stuff well....but, chit happens.

Regards, Mike


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## NDVA HAYMAN (Nov 24, 2009)

Yes it does Mike. Just when you least expect it. I'm glad Hayman brought this up because there is a lot of good info in this thread. I have never thought about which wind direction to point my tractor if the baler is on fire or smoking. That's a good thought!


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## JD3430 (Jan 1, 2012)

I bet when it happens the thing that runs thru your mind is:

1. Put fire out
OR
2. Unhitching tractor, pull away, then put fire out.


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## DSLinc1017 (Sep 27, 2009)

JD3430 said:


> I bet when it happens the thing that runs thru your mind is:
> 
> 1. Put fire out
> OR
> 2. Unhitching tractor, pull away, then put fire out.


#2 and I don't mean go to the library!


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## cornshucker (Aug 22, 2011)

Hog987 right on checking, not as much a specific temp. but one higher than average. Got a fire extinguisher in round baling tractor but probably is not big enough capacity if fire gets to blazing.


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## ETXhayman (Jul 19, 2012)

I was told by another farmer that a lot of times if your paying close enough attention you can just kick the burning bale out of the baler before it catches your baler on fire. I had a pretty good laugh because this was coming from a guy who averages at least one baler burning up every summer!

Fortunately I have never had a bale catch fire...at least not when its inside the baler.

Edit: This same farmer did give some good advice. He told us to put the pin that's used to pin the tractor and baler together upside down. He said when the baler catches fire all you need to do is pull the clip out of the pin then get in the tractor and haul a##! The pin will drop out and then your hydro lines will break away and you will save your tractor. He told us he lost a tractor and baler simply because he couldn't get the main pin between his tractor and baler to come out.


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## JD3430 (Jan 1, 2012)

ETXhayman said:


> I was told by another farmer that a lot of times if your paying close enough attention you can just kick the burning bale out of the baler before it catches your baler on fire. I had a pretty good laugh because this was coming from a guy who averages at least one baler burning up every summer!
> 
> Fortunately I have never had a bale catch fire...at least not when its inside the baler.
> 
> Edit: This same farmer did give some good advice. He told us to put the pin that's used to pin the tractor and baler together upside down. He said when the baler catches fire all you need to do is pull the clip out of the pin then get in the tractor and haul a##! The pin will drop out and then your hydro lines will break away and you will save your tractor. He told us he lost a tractor and baler simply because he couldn't get the main pin between his tractor and baler to come out.


Outstanding idea with upside down pin!


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## 8350HiTech (Jul 26, 2013)

In addition to emergencies, there is an everyday reason to run your pin upside down. Hay moving under it can't accidentally pull out your clip because it's now above the hitch. You should probably also use a spacer above the hitch to make the clip easier to pull and to have the handle of the pin drag less in heavy hay. A short piece of pipe or whatever you have that fits around the hitch pin is good enough.


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## rjmoses (Apr 4, 2010)

About every 3-4 baleings, I check all the main bearings to make sure they're getting grease (I have the automatic greaser system). A well greased bearing usually won't have any problems. Also, I clean off excess grease and crud around the bearings.

My thinking is an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure.

But, I would think if there is a problem and see smoke, I'd dump whatever hay is in the baler and get away.

I use a grade 8 bolt with two nuts and a lock pin because I'm not real trusting of the standard hitch pins, so unhooking would be time-consuming.

Just my thinking....

Ralph


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## atgreene (May 19, 2013)

I use a heat gun. I'm new to rb operations, so I walked around the machine on a blistering hot day with the temp gun and a sharpy marker. Wrote all the temps next to the bearing for comparison next time. Smelled smoke my last day baling, found one bearing that had been a little warmer previously was 260°. That got my attention, even the dust in the air that settled on it was flaming.


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## DSLinc1017 (Sep 27, 2009)

rjmoses said:


> About every 3-4 baleings, I check all the main bearings to make sure they're getting grease (I have the automatic greaser system). A well greased bearing usually won't have any problems. Also, I clean off excess grease and crud around the bearings.
> 
> My thinking is an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure.
> 
> ...


Have you tried safety pins? They have a large safety wire that starts at the top of the pin then comes down and latches to the bottom of the pin.


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## rjmoses (Apr 4, 2010)

DSLinc1017 said:


> Have you tried safety pins? They have a large safety wire that starts at the top of the pin then comes down and latches to the bottom of the pin.


No, I haven't. That's a possibility that I'll check out.

Thanks

Ralph


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## JD3430 (Jan 1, 2012)

Safety pin. One thing to keep in mind is that these can fail once in a while, too.


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## DSLinc1017 (Sep 27, 2009)

JD3430 said:


> Safety pin. One thing to keep in mind is that these can fail once in a while, too.


That's one version or it, even better than the ones iv'e picked up at TSC. I tend to loose the Hairpin on my hay wagons going in and out of fields through the ditches. Also kinda nice because the clip is permanently attached, no digging in the grass when you drop a hairpin. JD is on it, nothing is fool proof! Did have a friend of mine loose a hay wagon over a cliff full of hay because the hairpin was lost, (honestly he never used them) hay wagon is still at the bottom, full of rotten hay.


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## Hayman1 (Jul 6, 2013)

DSLinc1017 said:


> That's one version or it, even better than the ones iv'e picked up at TSC. I tend to loose the Hairpin on my hay wagons going in and out of fields through the ditches. Also kinda nice because the clip is permanently attached, no digging in the grass when you drop a hairpin. JD is on it, nothing is fool proof! Did have a friend of mine loose a hay wagon over a cliff full of hay because the hairpin was lost, (honestly he never used them) hay wagon is still at the bottom, full of rotten hay.


I started using the self locking pins several years ago on all of my hay equipment. Work well on everthing except the wagon pulled behind the baler when you go through a ditch or sharp dip. the locking side bends easily and it ruins the pin. I ordered the 4 x 3/4 size from the manufacturer because TSC did not carry-only the 6 x 3/4 and those were catching and bending. Also nice because you can attach to the handles on your extendahitch when unhitched so you can find the darn pin when you need it.


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## JD3430 (Jan 1, 2012)

I started buying shorter pins. I hate them dragging in windrows. 
I keep promising myself I'll use thin cable as a retainer to keep from losing my pins, but never get around to it.
I have No excuses, I even have a swaging kit!!


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## swmnhay (Jun 13, 2008)

Vermeer balers come with a pin that just fits threw the bottom to keep from windrow dragging.Then there is a metal strap over the top of the pin to keep it from popping out.It would be pretty easy to make something similar.


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## JD3430 (Jan 1, 2012)

The more I hear about Vermeer, the more I'm liking them. 
I also like that their computer readout includes moisture in the hay. 
Ingenious-all balers should have this.


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## rjmoses (Apr 4, 2010)

Just picked my NH BR780 today from my dealer. Had it in there for belt resizing and re-lacing and a couple of other things. After following this thread, had them check all the bearings while the belts where off.

Found two bearings that were marginal. One of those was the top rear gate roller. The other was on the scraper roller at the bottom.

Shop manager told me that he has been seeing a lot of NH balers come with that top roller bearing bad and that NH had an engineering change on the bearing. (They replaced the bearings on both sides on the top roller.)

After reading this thread, I've decided to get an infrared thermometer and take readings after about 25 bales.

Good thread!

Ralph


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## swmnhay (Jun 13, 2008)

When checking readings I like to compare each side of a roller.If one is say 90 and the other side is 120 it maybe a sign of something to come and I keep a closer eye on that bearing.


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## DSLinc1017 (Sep 27, 2009)

rjmoses said:


> Just picked my NH BR780 today from my dealer. Had it in there for belt resizing and re-lacing and a couple of other things. After following this thread, had them check all the bearings while the belts where off.
> 
> Found two bearings that were marginal. One of those was the top rear gate roller. The other was on the scraper roller at the bottom.
> 
> ...


Its been on my list for a while, this tread made me get one too! Wondering if any one uses it to test bales?


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## luke strawwalker (Jul 31, 2014)

NDVA HAYMAN said:


> Yes it does Mike. Just when you least expect it. I'm glad Hayman brought this up because there is a lot of good info in this thread. I have never thought about which wind direction to point my tractor if the baler is on fire or smoking. That's a good thought!


Here's another one... if she catches and a fire extinguisher doesn't work, cut the tractor loose if you can and let her burn...

Had a fellow here roundabouts a few years back open the back door and climb in to try to rake the burning chaff and loose hay out of the "inside" of the belts... ended up with third degree burns on a significant percent of his body and spent a LONG time in the hospital...

Aside from the pain and being out of commission for so long, and quite possibly dying, that kind of medical care AIN'T cheap! New baler would have been CHEAP beside that...

Later and stay safe! OL JR 

PS... had bearings go out now and then-- our old baler has ridiculously small bearings compared to the newer ones... heck they're barely bigger than "cultivator bearings" on the non-drive rollers, even the offside away from the drive sprockets are "too small"... most are sealed 'non-greasable' as well.

Only had one that nearly burned the baler down-- bottom of the door roller bearing on one side gave out and that sucker got RED HOT, and started dropping bits of burning chaff out the back... no bales caught, but the guy I was custom baling for was running around in his pickup putting the little fires out from balls of flaming chaff that it was dropping on the field before he flagged me down. I made a beeline to the house with the door open after I kicked the bale out and hosed it down-- hot enough to flash to steam! Guess with the bale practically sitting on top of that roller, that puppy got HOT! Made a trip back to the shop and had a new bearing in it in an hour or two though and back to the field...

Watch the ones with the biggest load on them the closest, and ones where a lot of chaff and loose hay will tend to accumulate nearby... usually the lowest rollers or ones with extreme pressure on them when the bale is full size...

Good luck! OL JR


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## luke strawwalker (Jul 31, 2014)

Hayman1 said:


> I started using the self locking pins several years ago on all of my hay equipment. Work well on everthing except the wagon pulled behind the baler when you go through a ditch or sharp dip. the locking side bends easily and it ruins the pin. I ordered the 4 x 3/4 size from the manufacturer because TSC did not carry-only the 6 x 3/4 and those were catching and bending. Also nice because you can attach to the handles on your extendahitch when unhitched so you can find the darn pin when you need it.


I like the self-lockers, used a number of them, but you're right... they get torn up easily...

I started making my own... used to have h3ll keeping a pin intact and in the drawbar on liquid fertilizer applicators in the field when we row-cropped... the constant hammering and stuff would ruin the handles and after having a collection develop of old pins that the pin itself was good (if slightly bent) but the handle bail was gone, I got the idea to "fix" them. More than once I'd lost the applicator in the field in a rough spot and had the hoses pop loose from the tractor and all that, and then it's a b!tch to hook back up, so I came up with a "better design". Hair pins just are too easy to get ripped out IMHO...

What I did was get a long old bolt, and weld the head of it directly to the top of the pin, where the old damaged handle or bail was either missing or damaged and I cut it off. If the underside of the head was worn from oversize holes so it wasn't flat, I'd weld a big, thick flat washer to the head, that the pin had been slid down into. Then, I'd heat the bolt about a couple inches above the head red hot with the torch, and bend the bolt over to a 90 degree angle-- presto, new HEAVY DUTY handle, about four inches long (hand-width). Then I'd grab some old chain (tiedown chain, dog chain, whatever) and weld a link directly the the shaft of the bolt "handle" right next to the head. The chain is long enough to loop around the hitch, or go between the straps behind the drawbar, and back up to itself. Then I'd buy a 99 cent quick link or one of those fancier "carabiner" snap links and install it on the welded-on link.

When hitching, the handle is very handy if you need to "twist-n-shove" to get everything lined up just right to get the pin in... then loop the chain around the entire thing (so long as the pin sticks out far enough below to prevent it from flopping off the front, which would allow the pin to "pop up" too far if it takes a bad bounce... in that case, where you want a short pin (like on the baler so it doesn't drag hay) I run the chain between the upper and lower clevis hitch pieces right behind the drawbar, and pull it up fairly snug (not REAL tight so it doesn't bind and make it hard to get off later-- just enough so the pin can't jump out if it hits a bad bump or something!) and latch the closest chain link in the quick link or carabiner... you can tighten the quick link with a pair of pliers or little crescent if you want extra security, but I've NEVER had one of these come out... fixed my problems with pins "jumping out" of fertilizer applicators in rough fields entirely.

Had the baler pin "jump out" ONE TIME, and that was enough! Hard enough to pick it up off the ground and hitch back up, and hopefully none of the hoses pull or "snag" before they pop loose from the couplers, but the PTO shaft can take a beating... had to grind part of it away where it whacked the 3 point arms before I could shut it off... it wouldn't go back together otherwise...

That handle sure makes it easy to get the pin OUT when it's time to unhitch, too... lets to twist and pull at the same time and work it out, even if there's a little bind on it...

later! OL JR


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## Gearclash (Nov 25, 2010)

I use a short rubber tarp strap to secure hitch pins in place. Hook one end in the handle of pin, go under the implement hitch behind the pin, and back up to the pin handle with the other hook.


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## ARD Farm (Jul 12, 2012)

Hayman1 said:


> I am new to the round baling business but understand the bearings on the shafts can and do go. I have purchased a JD457SS with 5K through it but have not gotten it from the dealer yet. My question-you can get a remote thermometer to read surface temps. Has anyone used one of these to check bearing life on the main shafts in a RB? Just curious for pm if that would be a workable approach. If so, at what temp would you change the bearing? I understand fire from overheated bearings is a real issue. Thanks, and sorry if this is a dumb question.


Not a dumb question (and I didn't read all the posts made in response either).....

IR Thermometers give an good indication of relative surface temperature and are capable of spot (concentrated) measurement. You don't need to spend hundreds on a Fluke, a Harbor Freight model for less than 40 bucks will do just fine. I keep one around to check things like water heater output temperature and woodstove flue temperature as well as how cold the freezer is.

You can use the age old method of: If you can put your hand on it and keep it there without being unduely uncomfortable, it's probably okay.....

But an IR will allow you to compare readings across a number of bearings, establish a base line and then if one particular bearing is abnormally hot, then, that bearing is suspected of pending failure.

Another good way to tell is look at the paint around the bearing. If it's discolored or flaking off, that bearing has probably overheated.

I sometimes wonder just how many round bailer fires can be linked to overheated bearings igniting the forage.....


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## Chessiedog (Jul 24, 2009)

I've replaced 2 this year , Both were sealed bearings no greasing them , also not in a place that the bearing is visible . The first one started a small fire , second one just caused the roller to come out part of the tensioning system . Over 12000 bales on the baler .


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## ARD Farm (Jul 12, 2012)

If I had 12K bales on amy round bailer, I'd be replacing all the bearings as a matter of longevity and service life. At 12,000, they have used up their useful life anyway and bearings aren't all that expensive in the first place. I admit that some are a PITA to change out but replacement is always better than inceneration.


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## Grateful11 (Apr 5, 2009)

I'm thinking about ordering this one, it gets really good reviews and cheap enough you could buy 2 to use as a comparison to verify temps.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00837ZGRY/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=2JPDLQPLPM2LB&coliid=I1JS5AH1LNRV1I&psc=1


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## carcajou (Jan 28, 2011)

ARD Farm said:


> If I had 12K bales on amy round bailer, I'd be replacing all the bearings as a matter of longevity and service life. At 12,000, they have used up their useful life anyway and bearings aren't all that expensive in the first place. I admit that some are a PITA to change out but replacement is always better than inceneration.


On most JD round balers that would be a waste of money. Most bearings i've never replaced even if the balers had 25,000 bales on them. Seems it's the same few over and over with the odd different one now and then.


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## luke strawwalker (Jul 31, 2014)

ARD Farm said:


> (snip)
> 
> I sometimes wonder just how many round bailer fires can be linked to overheated bearings igniting the forage.....


I'd bet nearly all of them...

Guess static discharge could play a role, but I bet most are hot bearing related...

Later! OL JR


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## carcajou (Jan 28, 2011)

Lewis Ranch said:


> Great advice, I try to keep 1-2 of each bearing on hand. I also try to keep springs as I break them a lot and links on the kicker arm, seems I go through several of them a week. Anybody else have this problem?


Easy way to eliminate that link issue, just weld the chain directly to the kicker spring pin and back the jam nuts off to the end of the threads. First thing i do with every JD baler i have purchased.


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## luke strawwalker (Jul 31, 2014)

carcajou said:


> On most JD round balers that would be a waste of money. Most bearings i've never replaced even if the balers had 25,000 bales on them. Seems it's the same few over and over with the odd different one now and then.


Yep... odds are they came from the factory with better bearings than the replacements are likely to be...

Older balers probably had German or US or Japanese bearings in them from the factory... new ones off the shelf are likely to be cheap, crappy Chinese bearings. We used to have a bearing supply that carried a lot of US and European made good quality bearings, but they went under.

Most folks want the cheapest bearing they can get, so most dealerships only stock the cheap Chinese bearings... for some things, the cheap Chinese bearings are okay, but for heavy loads under severe conditions (bearings in a baler) I'd MUCH rather spend twice as much to get a GOOD HIGH QUALITY bearing than some cheap junk, and have the joy of having to tear the machine down AGAIN to replace it when it goes out... usually in the hottest and busiest time of the year!

I HATE sealed, non-greasable bearings! It MIGHT be different if they actually PACKED the bearing with grease at the factory before they pressed the seals in, but they go CHEAP and basically shoot one little toothpaste-like "turd" of grease about an inch long (about what you'd squeeze out of your toothpaste tube onto your toothbrush) into the bearing kind of slap-dash before they press on the seal. Half the time the grease isn't even really in the path of the balls or rollers. This grease spreads around a little bit, but most of it eventually "hardens up" and isn't even available to lubricate anything. Moisture and sometimes dust will eventually work its way under the seal and into the bearing, creating a little bit of rust or corrosion (surface scale/etching discoloration type corrosion) during the off-season, and then when the bearing goes back into use, this gets ground up and pits/roughens the surface of the balls and raceways... dust thickens up the dab of grease in the bearing and heat cooks it, and any corrosion material worn off during work also thickens the grease, to the point virtually all of it ends up locked up on the plastic ball-centering ring or the side seals, or on the flanks of the raceway grooves the balls or rollers run in. The bearing then overheats and fails, usually at the worst possible moment.

If given a choice, I'll go with a greasable bearing every day of the week and twice on Sunday. At least you can usually replenish the grease, and so long as you don't blow the seals, you can usually keep the 'gunk' "flushed out" by periodic greasing, especially once the seal wears a little and will allow some of the grease to escape. The escaped grease usually serves to help trap moisture and dust before they can work their way past the seals into the bearings, if greased properly and regularly.

Of course, EVERY bearing EVENTUALLY wears out. Usually greasable types are easier to change as well, since the grease tends to minimize corrosion and "freezing" of the bearing races to the shaft or in the bore.

We used to have a Caldwell hipper (row disk) that we used when we row cropped, equipped with press-fit in the bore sealed ball bearings, a pair of them, for each pair of disks. These bearings ran down in the dirt inside their housings and the old original US bearings would last a few seasons. Cheaper Japanese bearings would usually last maybe 1-2 years. Chinese bearings... heck I could have bearings pressed into the housing at the Ford shop and had them go out TWO HOURS, yep, TWO HOURS, later! I wondered why the lifetime was SO limited... so I started investigating. Well, we'd known for years that MOST of the time, the bearing would lock up due to sheer corrosion and lack of lubrication-- that toothpaste-bit of grease isn't enough, ESPECIALLY in a bearing running "in the dirt". More than once the disks would lock up and we'd have to cut or shatter a cracked center race to get the bearing apart and get at the inner race to get it out... we found a lot of bearings still shiny and smooth inside, except for a little corrosion where moisture got inside the dab of grease wasn't able to keep the bearing lubed once that corrosion wore off, burning the bearing up... the extra drag from pitted parts will eventually distort and demolish plastic ball cages as well, which are FAR less durable than the old METAL ball cages which were riveted together in good old-style US bearings of decades past... course NOBODY makes metal caged bearings for standard applications anymore that I know of... Anyway, that alone couldn't explain the extremely short service life, even of cheap Chinese bearings (all the dealer carried). Come to find out upon further investigation, the numb-nut "mechanics" (high school kids mostly) the dealership was hiring to work in the shop were pressing the bearing INTO THE HOUSING BORE by pressing directly on the INNER SHAFT RACE...that's a BIG no-no... To press a bearing into a bore, you use a PRESS CUP to transfer the force from the ram to the OUTER BEARING going into the bore hole. Pressing on the center race dents the balls and stresses the raceways, which is basically engineered destruction of the bearing in short order! I asked them to use a press cup-- they claimed they didn't have one. I finally went to an oilfield supply and found a gas well rot line coupler that was precisely the correct diameter to bear on the outer race without binding or denting the seal ring, and welded a 3/4 inch thick metal disk to the top to make a press cup. Even when I'd take the "tool" and the housing with me, buy new bearings, and take them back to the shop to ask them to press them in for me, and hand them the tool and explain how to use it, SOME of the dumb-bunnies were TOO LAZY to use it and wanted to argue about it... One idiot one time started pressing the bearing crooked-- I told him so and he got PO'd and waved me off, and kept pressing... I moved back, because he was practically STANDING on the press handle and the bearing was VISIBLY crooked... he kept putting the force to it until BANG! The bearing exploded like a hand grenade, sending shards of hardened steel and balls in all directions... (including through the back wall tin cladding of the shop!) Fortunately he wasn't hurt... of course the housing was ruined, with a huge cocked ring pressed into the steel where the hardened race deformed the softer cast steel housing, so I made them give me a new housing and a new pair of bearings, and went and bought my own press... IDIOTS!

I also decided to drill ALL the housings from then on between the outer races, where there was a land inside the bearing where the outer races pressed up against it to bear the thrust forces, and tap the hole and install grease zerks. After that I popped one side seal out of every bearing I installed, so that grease could get into the path of the balls once installed in the housing. The inner races pressed tightly against each other when the disk axle, blades, spacers, etc. were all installed and tightened up, keeping the grease in between the housing and balls/outer races. They would then last several seasons again, even with cheap Chinese bearings...

WHY they install non-greasable bearings on heavy-duty service bearings in dirty/dusty conditions, is IMHO just engineered to fail... We even had a tandem disk we had to refit with greasable bearings-- came from the factory with sealed bearings, and the old early 70's US bearings lasted a LONG time, but their replacements became nearly a yearly breakdown point...

later! OL JR


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## ARD Farm (Jul 12, 2012)

Interesting.

I've never bought a Chinese bearing, never. I only use Fafinr or SKF or Timken from Applied Technologies. I just replaced the bearing packs in my Haas vertical machining center with SKF ABEC Class 5 bearings and I expect them to outlast me....Radial runout of less than 10 millionths of an inch.

Far as greaseable versus pre-packed, you can make any pre packed bearing greaseable simply by popping off one side seal. That exposes the works to your greasing tool, whatever that may be. be apprised that ordinary grease gu grease and bearing specific grease are 2 different animals entirely.

I'd sure like to see a picture of a drilled and tapped bearing race in as much as they are usually through hardened and stress relieved so the only method of drilling and tapping hardened steel is micrograin tungsten carbide drills and taps, not something every one has. In fact, most machine shops don't have them as they are cost prohibitive.


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## ARD Farm (Jul 12, 2012)

Grateful11 said:


> I'm thinking about ordering this one, it gets really good reviews and cheap enough you could buy 2 to use as a comparison to verify temps.
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00837ZGRY/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=2JPDLQPLPM2LB&coliid=I1JS5AH1LNRV1I&psc=1


10 bucks cheaper than Harbore Fright and 150 bucks cheaper than a Fluke.

Even it it's not accurate, thats not what you are looking for. Even a 10% deviation in accuracy over the entire range equates to only a couple degree deviation in relative temperature.

You want to compare bearing temperatures to find out if one is running hot. They will all be warm, consistently, but a hot one will be considerably hotter than all the rest. You use the average temperature as a baseline for comparison.

My real use for an IR probe is sensing floor temperatures variations in my shop. I heat the floor with heated propolyene glycol in zoned runs and I use the IR for setting the runs so they radiate evenly.


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## foz682 (Jan 10, 2013)

I thought about using one of those laser temp. guns for bearings, since we're changing a set of bearings pretty much every year anyway, nice to have a little heads up.

Only had one that got hot enough to light up a little hay, it was buried in behind layers of shields and sprockets. Wasn't a good feeling having the brand new 95 hp tractor hooked up to a baler I couldn't see through the cloud of smoke...

We try to have a set of bearings for each roller on hand, but our bearing place is pretty quick at getting anything we've ever needed...I've actually waited longer for strange metric hydraulic fittings than metric bearings.


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## ARD Farm (Jul 12, 2012)

One reason I always opt for the fire supression option...aka: a large rechargeable fire extinguisher.

I fill mine with RV antifteeze (propolyene glycol) and charge it on the shop air supply. I used to use water and shop air but you have to drain it every winter. With RV antifreeze you don't.

I carry as SOP, a smaller ABC unit in the tractor cab and one on the floor of the pickup and one in the tool box.

Had a friend roast his Claas last year. Was ugly. He didn't have anything to douse it with and barely got the tractor pin pulled and got away. They go real quick.


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## swmnhay (Jun 13, 2008)

ARD Farm said:


> One reason I always opt for the fire supression option...aka: a large rechargeable fire extinguisher.
> 
> I fill mine with RV antifteeze (propolyene glycol) and charge it on the shop air supply. I used to use water and shop air but you have to drain it every winter. With RV antifreeze you don't.
> 
> ...


You better read your jug of RV antifreeze,some use alcohol instead of glycol.So you would be spraying alcohol onto a fire.I grabed a couple gallons at TSC when I got my last baler and read the lable when I got home to find out it was flammable.

Copy and pasted from another site.

Ethanol (alcohol) based: This type of antifreeze is most readily available in hardware stores and most RV shops it sells for approximately $3.00 - $4.00 a jug. However, this product is also extremely flammable and not to used around any sort of pilot flames or cigarettes. As well, this product has been known to taint certain RV plumbing systems and is only to be used with Quest or Pex plumbing lines. If you have ever used this product you will quickly remember how bad you water smelt and tasted the next spring. Furthermore, because this product is made from alcohol it works to dry out all the rubber seals readily found in your faucets and toilet.

Propylene Glycol based: This product is usually only available at your local RV shop (and not every RV shop for that matter). It sells for approximately $5.00 - $6.00 a jug. Like the ethanol antifreeze, this product is non-toxic and safe for all RV plumbing. However, propylene glycol does not have the same fire safety warnings, nor the risk of tainting your RV plumbing system. Furthermore, propylene glycol is a lubricant and will actually work to extend the life of the seals in your faucets and toilets, unlike the ethanol based products


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## Gearclash (Nov 25, 2010)

Here are a few thoughts about round baler bearing life. According to Machinery's Handbook agricultural bearings are typically designed with a life of 3,000 to 5,000 hours. Take the low figure times a low figure of 20 bales per hour baling rate. So in theory bearing life on a round baler could be around 60,000 bales. This would be in a perfect world with no hazards to the bearings. The biggest threat to bearings I see is the wrap, especially net. Anything wound around a shaft up against the seal of a bearing will eventually damage the seal, and let the lubricant in the bearing out, and moisture in.


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## ARD Farm (Jul 12, 2012)

Second biggest failure causer are those wonderful pressire washers we were discussing in another thread.

Everyone likes a clean, well cared for machine but high pressure washing with even straight water can blow the grease right out of a bearing or, inject water under a seal and that water rusts the bearing and eventually causes failure.

Machinery's Handbook assumes that the bearing isn't compromised in any way. In our world, thats almost a fantasy.

I wash my hay tools once a year, when I do my seasonal maintenance and put them away. I always wash first and lube second. I use a pressure washer but with a wide angle tip and the pressure turned down and lubing after washing insures that any grease removed is replaced and water is displaced (if it's a greaseable bearing of course).

During hay time, I just blow off the machinery with a blow gun and do the regular greasing regimen.

Pressure washers are convenient but can be death on equipment. Use wisely.


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## Supa Dexta (May 28, 2014)

I have a 457 as well, My temps are usually around mid 90s-100* when shot with the gun.

Also, it must have had its very top roller worked on at some point as each side has burn marks in the paint where it looks like they had to heat it to get the bolts out.. The highest roller in the machine, its not from bearing heat, as each side is near the same looking, but they must have had it out for some reason. Only 6500 bales on the machine.


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## ARD Farm (Jul 12, 2012)

Prior to me buying my 450U, I looked at a number of used round bailers and everyone had issues, interestingly. Was either discolored paint near bearings or journals or dented and bent sheet metal or wonkey pickup fingers/shields.

If they could only talk.

But then, most farmers I know (not on here....  ) don't know what a grease gun or routine maintenance is for. They run 'em till they break and then whine about it or trade them in for a new one and the cycle starts again......


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## sethd11 (Jan 1, 2012)

3. I hoped I remembered to pay my Insurance!


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## luke strawwalker (Jul 31, 2014)

ARD Farm said:


> Prior to me buying my 450U, I looked at a number of used round bailers and everyone had issues, interestingly. Was either discolored paint near bearings or journals or dented and bent sheet metal or wonkey pickup fingers/shields.
> 
> If they could only talk.
> 
> But then, most farmers I know (not on here....  ) don't know what a grease gun or routine maintenance is for. They run 'em till they break and then whine about it or trade them in for a new one and the cycle starts again......


Oh yeah... VERY familiar with the "lease it, don't grease it" crowd... LOL

Later! OL JR


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