# Plantain in Alfalfa/Orchard mix



## Tater Salad (Jan 31, 2016)

Anyone got any ideas on getting rid of Plantain in a Alfalfa/Orchard mix ? 1st year field , Due to the dry march/april the orchard didn't run hard enough to choke out the plantain.....This is quality horse hay for baleing.


----------



## FarmerCline (Oct 12, 2011)

Maybe try 2,4db......if the plantain is still fairly young it should be easier to kill.


----------



## Tim/South (Dec 12, 2011)

Plantain is a booming crop here this year. Several of us have it in our grass hay and it is proving a tough weed to kill. The regional extension agent advised us to wait until 2 weeks after our last cutting in the fall and spray with GrazonPD. Even then he said it would take a couple of years to get rid of.

I realize we are talking apples and oranges since you have a legume and we have grass. I can not imagine how challenging it would be to get rid of it in a legume. Maybe not as bad since the plantain is new.

I hope you find a workable solution and are able to share it here.


----------



## Tater Salad (Jan 31, 2016)

Yeah TIM that dry march/april slowed the orchard down ,otherwise it would have choked it out...I should count my blessings that's my only problem so far....but as you said , tough problem !!! Both yours and FarmerClines responses are about the only answer besides hoping the orchard jumps heavy and hard (which it is starting to do)


----------



## Vol (Jul 5, 2009)

Early fall is a good time to kill plantain.....you can kill it with 2-4d in grass, but you have to make two applications 10 days apart. If you do this it will kill it for sure.

Regards, Mike


----------



## Vol (Jul 5, 2009)

Tater, I think you need to read the Butyrac label and see what it says about Plantain.

Regards, Mike


----------



## Tater Salad (Jan 31, 2016)

Vol said:


> Tater, I think you need to read the Butyrac label and see what it says about Plantain.
> 
> Regards, Mike


This is one of those pick your poison deals....Butyrac 200 label has no mention of grasses(damage ,but shouldn't being 24d) but will stress the alfalfa with surfactant and a lot of temp restrictions etc...Can't do anything now...Gonna spread 20lb/acre ammonia nitrate and goose the orchard (that shouldn't make the legume "lazy") then after last cut drill in another 5lb /ac of orchard grass and choke the crap out of it.......then pray for a better march in 2017 ????????????


----------



## Vol (Jul 5, 2009)

Butyrac is good with Orchard grass....but it is important to wait until it cools. Highs in the 50-60's is ideal.

Regards, Mike


----------



## Tater Salad (Jan 31, 2016)

Vol said:


> Butyrac is good with Orchard grass....but it is important to wait until it cools. Highs in the 50-60's is ideal.
> 
> Regards, Mike


your Alma Mater (I assume) UT....Has a good write up on it...Like me they are worried about the alfalfa in mixed stands , they listed biological controls as thick stands and allowing additional stand growth between cuttings which is different than the old mow low theory which then damages the pasture or forage stand........Darn it Mike , got rid of the mustard and thought I was home free !!! haha!!!!...............Tater


----------



## Vol (Jul 5, 2009)

Yes indeed....Go Vols!

Regards, Mike


----------



## Hugh (Sep 23, 2013)

Last September I over seeded Willow Creek Winter Wheat (would be October in Delaware) in a field full of noxious weeds that have been very hard to get rid of. The winter wheat came-up before the first killing frost, stayed alive in 12" snows and survived -20F, and grew like crazy in the very dry spring. I cut it about June 10, and the winter wheat KILLED every weed in that field. I bailed 2.65 tons per acre on that cut, and the hay is great feed. If you have weeds to choke out then this stuff is the ticket. I do believe it needs a cold winter, not sure about Delaware, check it out.


----------

