# Looking to buy an Oliver 1755 what do you guys think



## whitmerlegacyfarm (Aug 26, 2011)

Hey guys Im looking at buying this older Oliver 1755. I need to get a bigger ag tractor to handle my baler and wagons on these hills I'm haying. I did 40 ac of hay last year and possibly doubling that this year. I've been doing everything with a 50hp 4x4 tractor. I've been in contact with this Guy for a few months. He has slowly been going over his 1755 fixing some things and know the recent thing is the injection pump on it. I is a diesel with about 5100 hrs on it has nice rubber on it. He has ran out of time to work on it and gave me the option to buy it for $3k as is knowing it needs the injection pump pulled out and rebuilt and will deliver it to me 2 hr trip. Or he is willing to take to his local white/oliver dealer to pull pump and send it away to get rebuilt and put back on and would sell to me then for $4k? I'm leaning more towards telling him to take it to the shop and have them get it fixed up cause it's still going to cost me close to $1k to have the injection pump rebuilt anyways. Im going to attach all the pics he sent me and you guys let me know your thoughts. It defetently could use paint but it doesn't bother me I just need a good functioning tractor.
View attachment Oliver 1755.zip


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## dieselknudt (Apr 8, 2014)

If it were me I would want to know that the injection pump fixed whatever issues he was having. And $1000 is probably a good deal to have the pump rebuilt and reinstalled.

I don't have alot of personal experience with these tractors but I have heard that there were some issues with the Waukesha engines so you may want to do some research regarding that.

Other than that it could be a pretty good buy.


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## mlappin (Jun 25, 2009)

Not a bad looking tractor for the price. Bought a 1755 last spring to put on the v rake since I moved that tractor to the vertical tub grinder.

Waukesha's were fairly dependable, most of the issues were on the higher horsepower models that basically used the same engine as the 1755's but were turbocharged. Once Oliver installed better oil coolers that solved most of the problems. Most of the bad rep came from the 1855 series that they installed a turbo charger but no oil cooler. 1955's were the same engine, turned up a bit more but with a oil cooler. Our 1855 has around 8000 hours on the third tachometer. Not saying it hasn't seen a few sets of sleeves and wrist pin bushings in the last 40 years but have never grenaded one.

A few things I noticed in the pictures.

1: only 1 fuel filter, originally they had two, a primary and secondary.

2: looks like a aftermarket Hiniker cab, take it off. It's louder inside with it on than gone.

3: looks like somebody already lowered the hydraulic cooling pump on the left side, greatly increases the life of those incredibly expensive little pumps by having the oil flow to them instead of having to draw it up.

4: first time you have charging problems, lose the external regulator and replace it all with a single wire self regulating/self exciting alternator.


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## whitmerlegacyfarm (Aug 26, 2011)

Here was last email I got from him before I knew about injection pump. Do you guys think it sounds like injection pump?

"Well I thought it was going good. I actually got everything fixed with the gears and got it put back together Friday. I got the fuel filter moved and replaced the shut off value and fuel lines. So I thought I was good to go, but now it doesn't want to run for more then 30 seconds. Back in the winter time when I was moving it around to pressure wash it off, it stalled on me a few times. It was only like 15 degrees so I figured it was just old fuel jelling up, but now I think the injection pump went bad. I'm physically getting fuel to the pump and I cracked a few of the lines to see if it was pumping and it wasn't so I'm pretty sure that is whats wrong. It seems like I just can't win with this thing. "

These pics were taking before he went over and did some updating on this tractor.


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## 8350HiTech (Jul 26, 2013)

Sounds to me like a perfectly practical tractor rather than buying something for 25k that you don't need. I'd definitely let him get the pump fixed. It's a fair deal for pump repair and you get the peace of mind that it actually solves the problem before it's in your driveway. Not sure about taking the cab off considering some of the other discussions we've had about being smart with sun exposure. Maybe pull the glass out and use as a canopy.


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## hog987 (Apr 5, 2011)

I would let him get the pump fixed than can ask to see the repair bill. Also if something else besides the pump is wrong than you still won't be out anything. Sounds like he is getting tired of this dam thing.


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## mlappin (Jun 25, 2009)

8350HiTech said:


> Sounds to me like a perfectly practical tractor rather than buying something for 25k that you don't need. I'd definitely let him get the pump fixed. It's a fair deal for pump repair and you get the peace of mind that it actually solves the problem before it's in your driveway. Not sure about taking the cab off considering some of the other discussions we've had about being smart with sun exposure. Maybe pull the glass out and use as a canopy.


Better buy some hearing protection as well, from experience, it's louder with the aftermarket cab than without. The design of that particular one acts like a freakin bullhorn, every little vibration or normal tractor noise is magnified.

If you keep the cab, buy all new rubber mounts and replace em. If you can't find a interior to fit it then buy the material in bulk by the sheet and glue it in.


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## 8350HiTech (Jul 26, 2013)

I said pull the glass!  But hearing protection is wise regardless.


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## hog987 (Apr 5, 2011)

With old cabs like that you might want to pull some glass and hearing protection. I agree with mlappin just remove the cab.


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## Gearclash (Nov 25, 2010)

> So I thought I was good to go, but now it doesn't want to run for more then 30 seconds. Back in the winter time when I was moving it around to pressure wash it off, it stalled on me a few times. It was only like 15 degrees so I figured it was just old fuel jelling up, but now I think the injection pump went bad


Do these tractors have RoosaMaster pumps? If they do, there may be a fitting plugged on the top of the pump. It is the one that leads to the leakoff lines on the injectors. There is a check valve in the fitting on the pump and it can plug and give the inpression of pump failure. It is easy to correct.

BTW, I think the tractor sounds like a good deal.


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## mlappin (Jun 25, 2009)

Gearclash said:


> Do these tractors have RoosaMaster pumps? If they do, there may be a fitting plugged on the top of the pump. It is the one that leads to the leakoff lines on the injectors. There is a check valve in the fitting on the pump and it can plug and give the inpression of pump failure. It is easy to correct.
> 
> BTW, I think the tractor sounds like a good deal.


Yes they did, at least ours did. Have never had that happen personally but if it's plugged it could have air trapped in the pump.

Another thing we have had on em. Will run fine all day, then if you shut it off or kill it, they will NOT start hot. Pumps worn out and can't build enough pressure with hot fuel in it and worn parts. Dump about a gallon of cold water on em, they'll start right up and run again. Don't worry, if the pumps worn cold water on it won't cause it to seize or gall.


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## Gearclash (Nov 25, 2010)

Shoulda looked at the picktures before asking a dumb question. Yes that is a RoosaMaster pump. Bits of rubber or algae can obstruct check valve.


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## whitmerlegacyfarm (Aug 26, 2011)

Thanks guys for all the info. I'm really hoping I pick this up. I could decently use these extra horses lol. If I were mechanically inclined and didn't have to rely on buddies I'd take it for $3k and pull pump n send it away myself.


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## JD3430 (Jan 1, 2012)

I'd take it for the lesser price and take my chances on the pump, but then again I have a really good pump shop right up the road from me. 
Might be something simple and if money's tight you might fix it for a lot less than 1k. 
Had an international with what I thought was a failing pump and it was just a $15 vacuum line seal on back of pump.


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## Rodney R (Jun 11, 2008)

If it is that check valve, it builds too much pressure inside the pump, and that kills it. We had one do that, some sort of ring on the inside was falling apart. If it were me, I'd take the chance and use my tools, cause it just might be a $12 part. But just as easily, it could be few hundred to fix the pump.

Rodney


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## whitmerlegacyfarm (Aug 26, 2011)

He is down to $2700 as is delivered. Says injection pump isnt putting any fuel out. Was gona tell him 2500 n its a deal lol.


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## 8350HiTech (Jul 26, 2013)

Anymore most pumps are going to cost over 1k to have rebuilt which is why I liked the prior deal of 4k vs 3k. At $2700, and with the expertise provided above regarding the real possibility that it doesn't need a rebuild, I'd jump on it as-is. Go ahead and offer the $2500, though. The worst he can say is no


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## JD3430 (Jan 1, 2012)

What's the over the counter exchange cost for pump?


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## whitmerlegacyfarm (Aug 26, 2011)

Well shop right by meclaims $1200 for a reman pump. If the heads bad in mine then theres a $400 core charge. But I talked to a buddy that collects n has about 40 olivers say a complete rebuild should be about $600 to $800. Hour to b pull it n good hr to reinstall n time is mu guess but I dont know never did one im not mechanically inclined lol but learning.


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## deadmoose (Oct 30, 2011)

whitmerlegacyfarm said:


> Well shop right by meclaims $1200 for a reman pump. If the heads bad in mine then theres a $400 core charge. But I talked to a buddy that collects n has about 40 olivers say a complete rebuild should be about $600 to $800. Hour to b pull it n good hr to reinstall n time is mu guess but I dont know never did one im not mechanically inclined lol but learning.


If you are not comfortable doing the work yourself and are not sure of the problem I think you should either go the $4k route for it working or pass. That could easily turn into a money pit. JMHO. Could be a great deal for someone looking for something to wrench on just as easy.

Let's just say you got it at $2500 and ended up another $1200 fixing pump. How much more do you have or are willing to spend.if that doesn't take care of the problem?


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## 8350HiTech (Jul 26, 2013)

whitmerlegacyfarm said:


> Well shop right by meclaims $1200 for a reman pump. If the heads bad in mine then theres a $400 core charge. But I talked to a buddy that collects n has about 40 olivers say a complete rebuild should be about $600 to $800. Hour to b pull it n good hr to reinstall n time is mu guess but I dont know never did one im not mechanically inclined lol but learning.


If these guys decide to talk you out of it, I'm not that far from you and could use a cheap extra horse


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## Rodney R (Jun 11, 2008)

Where you're at, you can get some repair shop to guide you over the phone, take it to some Mennonite repair shop to have the pump rebuilt, and slap it back on (after a phone call), I'm betting that you'll under $3500 in it.

Rodney


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## Rodney R (Jun 11, 2008)

I was thinking about this a little - when he says that it has no fuel coming out of the pump, does he mean no fuel at all, or no fuel after it stops running? When we had trouble with our pump clogging the check valve, the engine would run a little, then die. Wait a while till the back pressure went away, and it would run some more. The solution for our case was to rebuild the pump, it was pieces of the governor ring (?) clogging the check valve. I would pull the check valve and see if that works, and you know where the problem is at.


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## whitmerlegacyfarm (Aug 26, 2011)

Its coming tomorrow. I will keep you guys informed. Gona hav a buddy help me figure out the issue. Hope its no worse then injection pump.


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## deadmoose (Oct 30, 2011)

Good luck. One of my bosses former bosses had a quote I will never forget. Maybe from some where else but what I remember him by:

"Hope is not a good plan."

I do hope it works out for you though.


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## deadmoose (Oct 30, 2011)

Good to hear you have some free help. Could turn into a great deal on a solid tractor.


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## JD3430 (Jan 1, 2012)

Wheeeel, I tried everything I could to open the file to look at the Oliver picture. Ain't happenin for me.


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## 8350HiTech (Jul 26, 2013)

JD3430 said:


> Wheeeel, I tried everything I could to open the file to look at the Oliver picture. Ain't happenin for me.


Same here.


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## mlappin (Jun 25, 2009)

JD3430 said:


> Wheeeel, I tried everything I could to open the file to look at the Oliver picture. Ain't happenin for me.





8350HiTech said:


> Same here.


Is the file unzipping after you download it?


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## 8350HiTech (Jul 26, 2013)

I can't open it on mobile (via safari).


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## whitmerlegacyfarm (Aug 26, 2011)

These are picks I was sent. Try n get new ones t oday when I have it.


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## JD3430 (Jan 1, 2012)

Woodgrain dash!!!!


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## whitmerlegacyfarm (Aug 26, 2011)

Lol thats how I roll!


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## mlappin (Jun 25, 2009)

JD3430 said:


> Woodgrain dash!!!!


That was standard on the newer Olivers. Older ones like my 1600 was just a painted dash. Meadow green with a clover white dash panel.


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## whitmerlegacyfarm (Aug 26, 2011)

She showed up today. Now waiting for sum help to come diagnos problem.


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## JD3430 (Jan 1, 2012)

whitmerlegacyfarm said:


> Lol thats how I roll!


Dude, thats Hilarious.


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## Rodney R (Jun 11, 2008)

The top rear of the injection pump has a line that runs straight up, and then turns and runs alongside of the engine, and then turns again and goes to wherever the fuel tank is - that is the return line. Take the line apart so that you can get the check valve out below it, and see if it runs w/o the check valve. If it does, see what comes out there when it runs - it will flow quite a bit of fuel, as I recall. Not sure if the line that goes to the tank also has a check vale in the bottom of the tank or not. You might have to drain the fuel. And just remember, high pressure fuel (like at the injectors) will go right through your skin.

Rodney


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## Bgriffin856 (Nov 13, 2013)

Not a bad looking unit. At that price you can put some coin in it and have a real tractor that'll serve you for many years.


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## Bgriffin856 (Nov 13, 2013)

[quote name="Rodney R" post="127492" timestamp="1397094496"]Where you're at, you can get some repair shop to guide you over the phone, take it to some Mennonite repair shop to have the pump rebuilt, and slap it back on (after a phone call), I'm betting that you'll under $3500 in it.

Rodney


> Yeah those would be the last people i would take anything too....


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## 8350HiTech (Jul 26, 2013)

Bgriffin856 said:


> Yeah those would be the last people i would take anything too....


They work too hard?


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## Bgriffin856 (Nov 13, 2013)

Them and the Amish around here are the laziest slather a**ed thieving crooks around.


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## JD3430 (Jan 1, 2012)

Bgriffin856 said:


> Where you're at, you can get some repair shop to guide you over the phone, take it to some Mennonite repair shop to have the pump rebuilt, and slap it back on (after a phone call), I'm betting that you'll under $3500 in it.
> 
> Rodney
> 
> ...


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## Dill (Nov 5, 2010)

New England seems to be the only Amish free zone in the northeast. There are couple Mennonite dairy farms in northern VT and way up Maine. But overall land price is too high. Its funny I've been talking to the same Amish guys at annual auction in VT for years now. Cause the ones that travel to flip equipment are just like me except their beards are longer.


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## PaMike (Dec 7, 2013)

It seams certain areas have "bad" and "good" amish and Mennonites. Lancaster county, where I am at has virtually all "good" hardworking ones. It seams like the lazy slobs that couldn't make a go of it here moved to western pa years ago. The land was/is cheaper out there so the lazy/poor managers moved there for a fresh start. A bunch of the ones that settled in western pa, then looked for an even cheaper location so they moved up into NY. Buddy bought a former amish farm near Syracuse NY. The neighbors hated the guy. He was the only amish guy in the area and he was lazy and took advantage of everyone. When he couldn't make a go of it in Syracuse he sold the place and moved even further north...


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## whitmerlegacyfarm (Aug 26, 2011)

So my buddy looked at it yesterday it's defiantly the injection pump. So now I'm up in air do I get it rebuilt or do I just buy reman one?


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## deadmoose (Oct 30, 2011)

How much is each option?


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## whitmerlegacyfarm (Aug 26, 2011)

Well I was told by few guys $600 to 800 to get pumps rebuilt n prob 1000 to 1200 to get a reman one.


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## 8350HiTech (Jul 26, 2013)

whitmerlegacyfarm said:


> Well I was told by few guys $600 to 800 to get pumps rebuilt n prob 1000 to 1200 to get a reman one.


Let us know what shop you can convince to do one for $600.


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## whitmerlegacyfarm (Aug 26, 2011)

I will im taking it b in tomorrow will see. This is all new to me.


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## JD3430 (Jan 1, 2012)

8350HiTech said:


> Let us know what shop you can convince to do one for $600.


That's totally possible. I got a more complicated pump rebuilt for a truck for $800 2 years ago. 
Obviously, remans are quicker. If I had to guess, he has some time before its time to get fields mowed and baled....maybe 3 weeks, so a rebuild could save a lot.


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## whitmerlegacyfarm (Aug 26, 2011)

Yea I got probably a good month till time to start mowin, but I'd like to get this up n running and get a ill seat time in before I just hook up n go. This is bigger then I'm use to and never ran a gear tractor on these hills I'm haying. If you all remember I just been using a DK50 Hst 4wd which in 4wd did everything I asked n never got pushed one bit. I don't know what to expect from this Oliver. I know I got almost double the weight in tractor which should help a bunch. Just hope I get use to it, might even b a little big for some of these smaller fields how they come to a point. I ran a ih 886 last summer for an he or so balding straw for dairy farmer on what we call the Island around here. Big couple hundred ac island in the middle of Susquehanna River but this ground is flat as flat can be .


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## slowzuki (Mar 8, 2011)

Hopefully going to look at a 1655 this week. Open station with duals, diesel. Owner says it starts hard but from what I read that is normal.


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## hog987 (Apr 5, 2011)

slowzuki said:


> Hopefully going to look at a 1655 this week. Open station with duals, diesel. Owner says it starts hard but from what I read that is normal.


Whats the difference between the 1650 and the 1655? The 1650 had a horrible motor. Hard starting from day one. Than people used either all the time to aid starting and over time this just made the motor worse. I had a 1650 for a short time as a teenager. My uncle gave it to me and thought that even at that price he charged me too much. Thats how much he thought of the 1650


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## hog987 (Apr 5, 2011)

Just looked at tractor data the 1655 is basically an updated newer 1650.


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## slowzuki (Mar 8, 2011)

Tractor sold before I could look at it unfortunately. Missed the sellers return call.


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## JD3430 (Jan 1, 2012)

slowzuki said:


> Tractor sold before I could look at it unfortunately. Missed the sellers return call.


Story of my life.


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## mlappin (Jun 25, 2009)

Check the timing on the 1650/1655. I have a 1600, hit the preheat for 30 seconds tops and it pops right off every time.

Most people didn't time em correctly, sure they'd run, but wouldn't start with a crap. Its possible with the pumps they used on the Waukesha's to be half tooth off. It's also possible to rotate the pump, but most people didn't as then it's harder to hook injection lines back up or if the injection lines are already installed its near impossible to rotate the pump.

Another one I've found, even though this is how an engine has "always" started for the last ten years or whatever, the starter, cables or batteries may not be up to snuff. Our backhoe has always been a hard starter, usually had to pull the side cover and turn the release screw down on the hydraulic pump to get it to start at anything under 60 degrees. Finally started using a different place to rebuild our starters and haven't had the side cover off since.

Lastly, when timing a diesel, always turn the crankshaft in the direction the engines runs to align the pump timing marks up, may not be much, but there is some slop in the drivetrain from the crank to injection pump, turning the crank in the direction of operation takes this slop up so the pump is timed correctly.


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## slowzuki (Mar 8, 2011)

The valve clearance is supposed to be very critical on this engine too or cold it will leak off and not build enough heat to start.


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## slowzuki (Mar 8, 2011)

I'm just not a really aggressive person towards people selling stuff, if they say don't call late, I don't call after 9 pm. Oh well, another will come along.



JD3430 said:


> Story of my life.


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## whitmerlegacyfarm (Aug 26, 2011)

It took me a year of looking and missing out on some good deals. Was always busy or a far trip to go look at it and it would sell b4 I could get there. I had same thing happen on n oliver 1655 this time last year. Tried to get guy to committ to $3k over phone if I brought trailer along since it was n hr one way. He wouldnt then sold for $3k 2days later. But I think it was worth the wait for this 1755.

Im waiting to hear back from diesel shop on estimate to rebuild pump.


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## Bgriffin856 (Nov 13, 2013)

PaMike said:


> It seams certain areas have "bad" and "good" amish and Mennonites. Lancaster county, where I am at has virtually all "good" hardworking ones. It seams like the lazy slobs that couldn't make a go of it here moved to western pa years ago. The land was/is cheaper out there so the lazy/poor managers moved there for a fresh start. A bunch of the ones that settled in western pa, then looked for an even cheaper location so they moved up into NY. Buddy bought a former amish farm near Syracuse NY. The neighbors hated the guy. He was the only amish guy in the area and he was lazy and took advantage of everyone. When he couldn't make a go of it in Syracuse he sold the place and moved even further north...


We were at an auction and an my dad was talking to Mennonite from Ohio and the Mennonite ask where we were from, my dad told him and he told us that's where all the trash Amish were sent to....live by them long enough and you'll understand where Im coming from


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## Rodney R (Jun 11, 2008)

The first amish community in the US was about 2 miles from here, and lancaster is about an hour away. I have lot of stories about them, but I think the Mennonites are worse. BUT it all just depends upon where they are, and what they think and believe. I think that a lot of the negativity comes from the education level. There is one thing - they will actually work, and show me a group of white people that will do that. And they do the work cheaper than anybody else. Just remember, they put their pants on one leg at a time, just like all the rest of the world.

Rodney


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## JD3430 (Jan 1, 2012)

Bgriffin856 said:


> We were at an auction and an my dad was talking to Mennonite from Ohio and the Mennonite ask where we were from, my dad told him and he told us that's where all the trash Amish were sent to....live by them long enough and you'll understand where Im coming from


I heard they're relocating from PA to Ohio, Indiana because they can sell 100 acres in Lancaster County and buy 500 out in the midwest and still have money left over.


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## hillside hay (Feb 4, 2013)

Unfortunately my company was involved in building a strip mall on a farm in Lancaster a few years back. Just kills me seeing good ground paved over to buy cheap chinese (capitalization revoked on purpose) crap. But that farmer probably made more selling those fifty acres than he did in ten years of farming.


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## mlappin (Jun 25, 2009)

JD3430 said:


> I heard they're relocating from PA to Ohio, Indiana because they can sell 100 acres in Lancaster County and buy 500 out in the midwest and still have money left over.


Not sure about that, ground is still selling from around 5500-7500 an acre around here.


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## whitmerlegacyfarm (Aug 26, 2011)

Repair shop called gona b $1100. Pump was missing a few main parts internally. Shop said no way tractor would of ran with that pump. Its like old guy tried to rig it or forgot to put parts back in it. Oh well as long as she runs with new pump I dont care. Should hav pump back next week and put togetger next weekend.


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## rajela (Feb 15, 2014)

Wondering if it runs at all?????


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## whitmerlegacyfarm (Aug 26, 2011)

Dont say that! lol


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## cmd (Oct 26, 2012)

JD3430 said:


> I heard they're relocating from PA to Ohio, Indiana because they can sell 100 acres in Lancaster County and buy 500 out in the midwest and still have money left over.


No way is that good midwest ground cheaper, maybe if they were selling a really key piece of property but good cornbelt ground is crazy money lately. Recently the menonites have been shipping out that way, ohio, missouri, etc. the elders re-itterated the rules about no internet, tv's, smart phones, etc. some of these guys said screw it and moved to a more lenient area. I will say some of the areas they are going aren't the $16,000/ac irrigated corn belt ground either and I think some are going onto cheaper farms. I know a pile of mennonites and many are friends, some are idiots, few are crooks, same as the rest of us, now the amish I don't get to deal with, not in their neighborhood.


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## cmd (Oct 26, 2012)

to clarify, for someone in my area, we initially think of ohio, indiana, illi, iowa, etc as god's gift to big yields, that said, there are hell hole farms in every state that don't produce and I believe a good chunk of ohio is more like our SCPA from what I know. so just because someone sells a farm here for 10 grand an acre, buys a farm for 6K/ac out there, don't be so quick to think they are raking in 300 bu corn.


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## JD3430 (Jan 1, 2012)

cmd said:


> No way is that good midwest ground cheaper, maybe if they were selling a really key piece of property but good cornbelt ground is crazy money lately. Recently the menonites have been shipping out that way, ohio, missouri, etc. the elders re-itterated the rules about no internet, tv's, smart phones, etc. some of these guys said screw it and moved to a more lenient area. I will say some of the areas they are going aren't the $16,000/ac irrigated corn belt ground either and I think some are going onto cheaper farms. I know a pile of mennonites and many are friends, some are idiots, few are crooks, same as the rest of us, now the amish I don't get to deal with, not in their neighborhood.


Oh heck yeah. Builders are buying land from Lancaster county Amish for FAR more than farm land sells for in the Midwest. I see Lancaster county building lots going for 50K+/ acre. 
Development is pushing from Chester county westward to Lancaster county. Now the never ending OBAMA recession has slowed development to almost nothing, but before 2009, land was crazy high in wester Chester and eastern Lancaster counties. I've said goodbye to more than a few Amish families who saw dollar signs and headed west.
I'm certain once the gray skies of the Obama recession finally clear and businesses begin making money again, housing starts will pick up and land prices will, too.


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## cmd (Oct 26, 2012)

JD3430 said:


> Oh heck yeah. Builders are buying land from Lancaster county Amish for FAR more than farm land sells for in the Midwest. I see Lancaster county building lots going for 50K+/ acre.
> Development is pushing from Chester county westward to Lancaster county. Now the never ending OBAMA recession has slowed development to almost nothing, but before 2009, land was crazy high in wester Chester and eastern Lancaster counties. I've said goodbye to more than a few Amish families who saw dollar signs and headed west.
> I'm certain once the gray skies of the Obama recession finally clear and businesses begin making money again, housing starts will pick up and land prices will, too.


Big difference between saying a few lots were 50K an acre and what the average in the county is in the actual dollars going to the farmer, and, location is everything much of the time. I will say, everyone thinks of buggies in lancaster but it's quite a little metropolis, (lancaster city itself)


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## JD3430 (Jan 1, 2012)

cmd said:


> Big difference between saying a few lots were 50K an acre and what the average in the county is in the actual dollars going to the farmer, and, location is everything much of the time. I will say, everyone thinks of buggies in lancaster but it's quite a little metropolis, (lancaster city itself)


Oh, that's not what I intended. I've been all over Lancaster county for 40 years....
Buddy of mine just bought a lot near Gap. paid about $89,000 for a building lot. Part of an Amish farm. All the lots in the subdivision are selling for that much. 
I only said $50,000 to average in some of the lower cost lots. Most of them sell higher.
I bet you can buy land in AG country in Midwest for ~ $5,000/ acre. 
That's a lot of spare money to add more topsoil and fertilize.


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## whitmerlegacyfarm (Aug 26, 2011)

How big of tillage equipment can I use behind this 1755? Just thinking I just do hay now but I may get into other stuff some day. Id like to hav a heavy disc I can work fields up with to try establish better hay fields.


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## deadmoose (Oct 30, 2011)

12-14' disc? 3 bottom plow.


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## whitmerlegacyfarm (Aug 26, 2011)

I was hopin a 4 bottom min. that it wouldnt work it to hard?


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## deadmoose (Oct 30, 2011)

Possible. Depends on the ground. Others will know that better than I.


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## Bgriffin856 (Nov 13, 2013)

I'd go with a 3x16 and 10-12ft disc always best not to run your tractor to the max all the time especially if you hit a tough spot. Always better to have more tractor than needed


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## PaMike (Dec 7, 2013)

JD3430 is correct. Lanc Land is crazy high pretty much no matter what. A preserved farm is pretty much a lock in at 16000-17000 an acre right now. If its preserved and two neighbors want it the skys the limit. I saw 1.8 million two years ago. I forget the size of the farm. I think it was 70-80 acres. Neighbor bought it. You really don't see many unpreserved farms sell at auction anymore. The reason is, they are unpreserved for a reason, and the seller wants top dollar for them. A 109 acre just sold privately for 5 million for an industrial park. A 44 acre sold for 4.4 million for housing, and a 60 acre sold, but the numbers weren't published.


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## JD3430 (Jan 1, 2012)

PaMike said:


> JD3430 is correct. Lanc Land is crazy high pretty much no matter what. A preserved farm is pretty much a lock in at 16000-17000 an acre right now. If its preserved and two neighbors want it the skys the limit. I saw 1.8 million two years ago. I forget the size of the farm. I think it was 70-80 acres. Neighbor bought it. You really don't see many unpreserved farms sell at auction anymore. The reason is, they are unpreserved for a reason, and the seller wants top dollar for them. A 109 acre just sold privately for 5 million for an industrial park. A 44 acre sold for 4.4 million for housing, and a 60 acre sold, but the numbers weren't published.


Wow, that's even higher prices than I was seeing. 
When friends of mine tell me what land sells for in the Midwest, I'm astounded how cheap it is. 
Now you want to talk crazy money, out in Chester county, were getting 200,000 for a building lot. 
I'm farming a 10 acre parcel that cannot be subdivided. It's just one building lot. Selling price is $950,000.


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## Gearclash (Nov 25, 2010)

> How big of tillage equipment can I use behind this 1755? Just thinking I just do hay now but I may get into other stuff some day. Id like to hav a heavy disc I can work fields up with to try establish better hay fields.


 Many years ago my dad pulled a 4 bottom plow in old alfalfa ground using an IH 766. Also pulled a 14' disk. The 1755 should do about the same.


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## mlappin (Jun 25, 2009)

1755 should handle a 22 foot light disc easy enough. Not sure about a heavy disc, smallest we used to have was a 25 foot. I used to cultivate with a 8 row danish tine cultivator behind our 1600 Oliver.

Once you get the 1755 running, change the hydraulic oil filter no less than once a year, the pump pulls the oil thru the filter and bad things happen if you start starving the pump. If it was mine, I'd just change the hydraulic oil and filter so you know its fresh.

One of two ways to get it all out, removing the filter won't usually drain the oil as they have a spring loaded poppet so you don't loose all the oil changing filters, you can either reach in with a pair of needle nose plyers and pull the poppet open to drain, or hook a hydraulic hose with just end to one of the remotes and have a helper operate the remote to pump the oil out, once it quits pumping have the helper shut the engine off asap. A third way is to suck the oil out of the reservoir, I've herd of it being done but never have myself. If you do either of the first two methods i mentioned then park the tractor with the front end lower than the rear as the pickup tube is in the front of the reservoir.


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## mlappin (Jun 25, 2009)

One last thing, and really should do this with all tractors regardless of color, keep a can of ether around. Whenever you hook a piece of equipment up spray both the female and male couplers off so they are clean. Ether cuts dirt, grease and oil really quick and is cheap.


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## hog987 (Apr 5, 2011)

mlappin said:


> One last thing, and really should do this with all tractors regardless of color, keep a can of ether around. Whenever you hook a piece of equipment up spray both the female and male couplers off so they are clean. Ether cuts dirt, grease and oil really quick and is cheap.


Just if you are ever going to take the tractor to an auction to sell take the can of ether out. Guys get scared of the engine condition if they see a half can of ether.


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## whitmerlegacyfarm (Aug 26, 2011)

It's up and running guys. Motor sounds strong. Goin to go do a little test driving haha. Thanks for all the help. I painted the outside of the cab quick don't look pretty but keep it from rusting I guess.


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## deadmoose (Oct 30, 2011)

New pics coming? Glad to hear its ready to go.


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## rajela (Feb 15, 2014)

So what was the final investment??????


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## mlappin (Jun 25, 2009)

One last piece of advice, being the way the power shift is designed in the Oliver/White tractors, whenever you leave it run in neutral or are using it for a stationary power unit always place the power shift in Under. This unit uses a sprague clutch for under and a clutch pack each for Direct and Over. Anytime you're using Direct or Over the output shaft is spinning faster than the sprague, no point in wearing it out just sitting around idling or running. We have a 1855 that Dad is the original owner, same tractor as you're 1755 except with a turbo, have almost 8000 hours on the third tachometer and haven't had to do Over/Under work on it yet other than a rear seal and a few rear sprockets for the chain coupler.


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## whitmerlegacyfarm (Aug 26, 2011)

I did not know that. Defently good to know. The pump ended up costingv $1200. Normal rebuild should of only been 600 o to 800 but since it was missing a few parts inside took it up a lot. Its runnin good. There feels as is theres something catchingvin rearend at times. But its possible it could b the cab I cant tell yet. Heres a pic


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