# Painting-what do you use- materials, equipment



## eam77

Painting. I'm always painting something. Sometime's it is something new that I have built. Sometimes it is a repaint of old equipment of some kind.

Today, it was an old dump truck bed that I have owned 22 years. My guess is that it is 45 to 50 years old. The old truck finally died, so I bought a nice looking newer (used) truck to build a new dump truck. I priced used dump beds, but they were so high, I decided to refurbish and reuse the old dump bet. But, hard to put a real ugly dump bed on a nice looking truck. So---- repair every little problem, clean up and paint. [My definition of a dump truck is 200-300 miles per year. Ocasionally 1 mile stretches on a county road, otherwise, on owned property. No license, no insurance. I do have a gravel bar on a local river].

But painting. I mostly use "Rustoleum", but sometimes "Valspar" paints. I ususally thin with mineral sprits. All paints are "alkyd enamels". I have three kinds of paint sprayers, but all are cheap Harbor Freight models. I am having lots of problems-- and just can't seem to get as nice of a paint job as I would want. Problems- thick and thin coverage, runs on vertical panels, runs on edges. I read the booklets, I work with the adjustments. The spray pattern never suits me.

Can anyone advise on reasonable cost but quality spray equipment (remember- private use, not selling product, not automotive quality sproaying). Can anybody suggest better paints--though at some reasonable cost. I am currently paying $30-40/gallon.

Can anyone give tips on spray painting farm equipment type items?

Thanks.


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## urednecku

The only painting I've done is with the spray can or brush. That being said, a few years ago a friend told me to cut rustoleum ~ 50/50 with gasoline to use in an air compressor sprayer. The best I can remember he said it spread better, and dried better than using anything else.

I've never tried it, so be careful if you do.


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## somedevildawg

A few......the final paint is only as good as the prep job..... For rusted surfaces, use something to neutralize the rust b4 painting, make sure it dries 24 hours. Never spray below 50. When thinning, I use the thinner to get it thin enuf to look like a thread but the thread stops dripping quickly. Use gravity feed guns, not siphon guns. Use two or three thin coats rather than one heavy coat. I use Majik brand paint, real good for the money....$29 a gallon at TSC


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## mlappin

For a quality finish a HVLP (High Volume Low Pressure) gun is a must, or as dawg called it a gravity feed. I have an American Made Sharpe, their cheaper line may be imported. They also have different nozzles for paint or primer, primer nozzles are generally larger. Could you have the wrong nozzle in your gun?

I'd never use gas for thinning...boom.

Use the specific thinner for the paint, the wrong one even if close is still the wrong one.

For example Rustoleums Rusty Metal primer in quarts calls for mineral spirits if I remember right while Rustoleum Rusty Metal Primer in gallon cans uses a different thinner as it's "Professional" grade.

If you have a larger area to cover look into getting a paint pot. Mine was given to me but I imagine swap meets, flea markets, Ebay or craigslist might be the place to start. Think of a large pressure cooker with a tube to the bottom, a air inlet and a air regulator, then two hoses going to your gun. Your shop regulator is used to control the pressure to the gun, then the regulator on the pot is used to control how fast the paint is forced to the gun. I mix my paint up, dump it in a clean 2 gallon pail then place it in the pot so I don't have clean the entire pot. Depending on the quality of the gun you have it will paint as well as a HVLP but a LOT faster.


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## mlappin

One last thing, it doesn't matter how many times you blow it off at what pressure or volume, a tack rag is a absolute must before starting on your final coats, a tack rag between coats is also advisable unless of course your painting in a sterile room along the lines of what delicate electronics are assembled in.


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## PaulN

I bought a Sharpe siphon gun back in the mid 80's, and I'm still using it today. It's always given me good results. But I've noticed that in the last 15 years, all you see now is HVLP type guns. I'm just wondering why? Are they really that much better? I've never used one.

Paul


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## mlappin

PaulN said:


> I bought a Sharpe siphon gun back in the mid 80's, and I'm still using it today. It's always given me good results. But I've noticed that in the last 15 years, all you see now is HVLP type guns. I'm just wondering why? Are they really that much better? I've never used one. Paul


Much much better, Think little to no over spray, also very little to no vaporized paint floating around the shop settling on everything in sight.


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## somedevildawg

PaulN said:


> I bought a Sharpe siphon gun back in the mid 80's, and I'm still using it today. It's always given me good results. But I've noticed that in the last 15 years, all you see now is HVLP type guns. I'm just wondering why? Are they really that much better? I've never used one.
> 
> Paul


I like high volume low pressure guns, hardly ever use the siphon feed, with the exception of spraying contact adhesive.......only pita can be spraying the underside of objects, sometimes have to do a lil work to keep the gravity part working.....


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## deadmoose

I am looking at getting a cheap hvlp setup. http://www.eastwood.com/economy-hvlp-paint-guns.html

This is what I was leaning towards. I am wondering the good bass and ugly of a cheapo gun like this.

Any good besides the price? Hobby use. Not a lot of use. I am sick of rattle cans.

Also looking for water separator/regulator. How much do I need to spend there? That will probably help out more than just painting I am assuming?

I tried sandblasting before and came to the conclusion I had too much water in my air. It was hard to blast.

Thoughts? Suggestions?

Not paying bills or painting BMW's with them.


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## somedevildawg

Looks nice for the money moose....might have to order me one 
They have the water separators that you can put "inline" right at the gun.....simple easy, but with your high water content perhaps one at the tank too? In lines are sold in two packs most of the time....changes colors when it needs changing, dummy proof....just what I need


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## deadmoose

I saw inline Milton 2 pack for $30. Didn't look like what I really need. As u said, in addition to other one maybe?


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## Growing pains

If you have water I'd spend the extra and get a good dryer with a drain. It will save your air tools as well as make for better paint jobs. Those cheap guns seem to do just fine for equipment and non show cars. I almost wore out a harbor freight gun before going to a MAC and the only real improvement I noticed was the MAC will make about twice as wide of a fan. I would probably spring for the two gun primer and finish gun set as well since they're so affordable.


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## deadmoose

Growing pains said:


> If you have water I'd spend the extra and get a good dryer with a drain. It will save your air tools as well as make for better paint jobs. Those cheap guns seem to do just fine for equipment and non show cars. I almost wore out a harbor freight gun before going to a MAC and the only real improvement I noticed was the MAC will make about twice as wide of a fan. I would probably spring for the two gun primer and finish gun set as well since they're so affordable.


How "good" is a good dryer? I see them from $20-30 to more than I have in the compressor.


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## mlappin

deadmoose said:


> How "good" is a good dryer? I see them from $20-30 to more than I have in the compressor.


Also depends on your compressor and setup.

I have a 60 gallon tank with a 2 stage compressor in the old milk house, rather large compressor so it catches up quicker. A smaller one that runs almost all the time but does keep up will add a lot more moisture to your air supply.

From the 60 gallon tank my line runs uphill slightly to the shop so most of the water settles back to the 60 gallon tank. Once in the shop it goes to a 30 gallon, the line from that one runs slightly up hill till it t's off.

With most of my line running uphill before I tap into it I get very little to no water in my filter/separator/dryer.

How much you want to spend all depends on how much you like your current air tools.


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## Growing pains

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B004P4569M?tag=wmtogr-20
I run one like this and it does a pretty good job. Not perfect but saves a lot of headaches.


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## somedevildawg

Lowes sells one that mounts at the tank. If I needed a regulator, I would put that at the gun. What kinda compressor do you have moose? One thing about painting with guns, you will use a good bit of air so quick recovery is nice.


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## Growing pains

I guess I forgot about regulators. I run the regulator on the tank around 70psi then cut it the rest of the way down with the cheap one at the gun. The problem I have with feeding the gun regulator with 150psi is that it only controls pressure when the air is flowing. With two regulators you don't get as big of a burst when you first squeeze the trigger.


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## deadmoose

somedevildawg said:


> Lowes sells one that mounts at the tank. If I needed a regulator, I would put that at the gun. What kinda compressor do you have moose? One thing about painting with guns, you will use a good bit of air so quick recovery is nice.


Iirc i think 5 hp 60 gallon Speed aire.


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## somedevildawg

You'll be a paintin fool.......I like to paint, the devil is in the details. Majik brand paint is purty good on the cheap....use hardener, clear if you so desire.....clear is a bit more challenging to spray, hard to see the material unless you have really good lighting and if you're like me it's outside in the sunlight.....so ya have to have a bright sunny day, when there ain't no gnats........


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## azmike

A Binks #7 and lots of clean air for utility work, tractors etc. DeVillbis HVLP for auto quality once again lots of CLEAN filtered air--a water drip on the hood will make you say bad words. I bought some cool two part epoxy for my Jeep retro, satin finish in British comando tan!


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## slowzuki

I looked forever for surplus desert tan at the mil surplus stores about 15 years ago, all they ever had was naval grey and greens.



azmike said:


> A Binks #7 and lots of clean air for utility work, tractors etc. DeVillbis HVLP for auto quality once again lots of CLEAN filtered air--a water drip on the hood will make you say bad words. I bought some cool two part epoxy for my Jeep retro, satin finish in British comando tan!


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## Farmineer95

I run a devilbiss dryer with a regulator. I like the regulator if you wanna clip airchuck on a big tire and walk away. Also has a drain. Look at the cfm the dryer can flow if you want to use it for blasting.


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## mlappin

I completely sandblasted my grandfathers Oliver 1600, cast centers in the wheels, fenders, console, cast iron grill, etc.

I learned a very important thing about sandblasting, if it's a big project, just pay somebody else to do it, it's worth it in the long run.

The powder blasting with baking soda is really slick.


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## PaulN

mlappin, I'm just wondering why baking soda?


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## mlappin

PaulN said:


> mlappin, I'm just wondering why baking soda?


Pretty much all summed up here.

http://www.sandblasting-sandblasters.com/faq-sand-blasting-equipments/advantage-of-soda-blasting.html


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## deadmoose

somedevildawg said:


> You'll be a paintin fool.......I like to paint, the devil is in the details. Majik brand paint is purty good on the cheap....use hardener, clear if you so desire.....clear is a bit more challenging to spray, hard to see the material unless you have really good lighting and if you're like me it's outside in the sunlight.....so ya have to have a bright sunny day, when there ain't no gnats........


How much difference does hardener make?

I have been using my Eastwood setup. I bought a Milton filter and regulator and plumbed it off the compressor.

As of yet, I haven't really painted anything meant to leave the garage. New shelves, workbench, carts, etc. I painted the inside of my service door today. Will have to redo. I painted one side too thick.

Anyways, wondering if when I do that I do the outside and maybe another exterior door, what hardener will do?

I will pull them off next time. Shortcut on prep was issue today. Was not planning on painting it. Decided to along with my new shelves.


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## deadmoose

Side note-my Eastwood guns are all but identical to the cheapi @ harbor freight. I don't think I would want to be painting cars with it, but for the money it is a good tool.


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## somedevildawg

Depends on the paint moose, whether it's enamel or base/clear, etc. Magic brand (TSC) has there own hardner......don't have to use it, might promote a little faster set. If I'm using acrylic enamel (JD paint) I don't use hardner. Just remember to use only as much thinner as you have to, usually no more than 10%......anything more and ur asking for all kinds of trouble and a finish that has little gloss....several thin coats is best but work fast if using enamel, it sets fast, then you have to wait about 24-36 hrs for re-coat....nothing wrong with the Eastman spray gun and the Milton stuff is about as good as it gets......hth


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